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PEEFACE. 


The  writer  of  the  following  pages  has,  for  a  length  of 
time,   employed   such   intervals   of   leisure    as   he   could 
command   from   official   and    other    necessary    duties   in 
placing  on  record  the  leading   events  of  his  missionary 
life,   in    the   hope   tliat    their    publication    may,  by  the 
Divine   blessing,  contribute   something   towards   ad^^anc- 
ing   the   interests  of  the  great   cause   of  Christian  Mis- 
sions.    '\^Tiether,  and  to  what  extent,  they  are  likely  to 
t.i    answer   that   end,   others  ^Yill   be   better   able  to  judge 
^    than   himself;   and   perhaps   it   hardly   becomes   him   to 
express  any  opinion  as   to  the  ends  the  book  is   likely 
^  ~    to  answer.     He  ventures,  however,  to  express  a  hope — 
^        First,  That  these  records  will,  to  some  extent,  interest 
^    and  encourage  the  friends   and   supporters  of  Christian 
)    Missions,    and    probably    stimulate    some    to    increased 
5^  liberality  in  contributing  towards  theu"  support. 
X         Second,  The  WTiter  further  hopes  that  young  disciples 
^  who   are   desirous   of    giving    themselves   to   Missionarj^ 
^  work   will    be   interested    and    encouraged   by   what   is 
>  ^    here  recorded,  and  that  Missionary  Students  and  young 
^    Missionaries   will    also   find    the    work    interesting   and 
^    useful. 

«  458850 


vi  PREFACE. 

And  it  may  be  mentioned  further,  as  a  reason  for 
this  publication,  that  there  is  much  in  it  that  will  have 
a  historical  value  in  future  years,  and  which,  on  that 
account,  may  be  deserving  of  a  permanent  record. 

The  compilation  of  this  work  was  begun  in  Samoa 
towards  the  close  of  1870,  and  it  has  been  carried  on, 
under  very  varied  circumstances,  and  sometimes  with 
long  intervals  of  interruption,  till  the  present  time. 

The  chief  difficulty  which  the  writer  has  experienced, 
and  the  misgivings  with  which  he  has  been  troubled  in 
its  preparation,  have  arisen  from  the  necessity  which  there 
seemed  to  be,  in  order  to  construct  a  connected  narrative, 
to  record  many  things  of  small  importance  in  themselves, 
and  many  matters  having  much  of  a  merely  personal 
bearing:  such  things,  however,  he  has  endeavoured  to 
touch  as  lightly  as  possible. 

He  now  commends  the  work  to  the  blessing  of  Him, 
the  interests  of  whose  cause  it  is  designed  to  subserve, 
and  whose  love  and  faithfulness  it  records. 

May  He  graciously  grant,  that  the  desired  end  may 
be  largely  promoted,  and  to  Hun  shall  be  the  praise.  . 


Charter  House,  near  Kelso, 
September  28,  1875. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 
The  voyage       . 


CHAPTER  II. 

Progress  of  the  voyage  towards  our  ultunate  destination — Occurrences 

by  the  way 7 

CHAPTER  III. 

Itiaching  the  fiehl— Girding  on  the  armour— Entering  upon  the  work     .      17 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Last  stage  of  our  voyage — Settlement  at  our  own  station        .        .         .27 

CHAPTER  V. 

Entering  upon  our  woi-k — Descrijition  of  the  island — State  of  the  natives 
— White  men  among  the  natives — An  exceptional  case — Hostility 
to  us  and  our  work — Murder  of  a  white  man  by  the  natives — Dis- 
persion of  the  whites  .........       .31 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Further  remarks  on  the  state  of  the  natives — First  direct  missionary 

elf orts— Foreign  visitors — Captain  Morgan .39 

CHAPTER  VII. 

First  attempts  at  preaching  in  the  native  language— Remarks — A  visit 
to  the  heathen  villages — Incidents — A  gleam  of  light  amid  the 
darkness  of  heathenism — Visit  of  a  deputation  from  the  Tahitian 
mission— AiTival  of  Mr  and  Mrs  M'Donald  and  two  teachers  from 
Rarotonga  ...........       48 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Visit  to  Uj^olu — General  meeting  of  the  mission — Reports  of  stations 
— The  preparation  and  printing  of  books — Application  for  a 
mission  ship— Striking  contrast — Narrow  escape      ....      55 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

liesuniptlon  of  accustomed  duties— Class  for  women  and  girls — rosi- 
tion  of  women  among  the  Samoans— The  Fi'ida}'  meeting— First 
native  teacher — Second  tour  of  the  district — Conduct  of  foreign 
visitors— Awful  occurrence — Close  of  our  first  year's  labours        .  01 

CHAPTER  X. 

Tour  of  the  island  with  Mr  Barnden — Temporary  exchange  of  stations 
— State  of  the  Leone  district — Striking  incident — Missionary 
voyage  to  Manua — Loss  of  a  canoe  and  crew — Success  of  the  ex- 
liedition  to  Manua — The  first  visit  of  an  English  man-of-war  to 
Samoa 6« 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Return  to  Pangopango — Teachers'  class — Increase  of  congregations 
and  deepening  interest  among  the  peojile — First  Chiistian  mar- 
riage— Heathen  marriages  and  difficulties  arising  therefrom — 
Opposition  of  foreigners  to  the  jiort  regulations — Issue  of  the 
struggle 74 

CHAPTER  XII. 

INIissionary  prayer-meeting  commenced — First  May  meeting — A  church 

formed— Biographical  notices ^>2 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

The  past  and  present— Continued  progress — Adaptation  of  plans — 
Native  helpers— First  news  from  home — Arrival  of  the  "  Camden" 
— Stirring  incidents .  90 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Remarks  on  the  arrival  of  the  "Camden" — Visit  to  Upolu — Journey 
to  Manono  with  Mr  Williams — Death  of  Mrs  Heath  — Remarks- 
Meeting  for  business  at  IJiiolu — Return  to  Tutuila — Incidents  of 
the  voyage— Death  of  Mr  Barnden        ...         ...  90 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Arrangements  to  meet  our  altered  circumstances — Native  agency — 
State  of  the  Leone  district — Chapel-opening  at  Leone — The  French 
massacre— Encouraging  state  of  things  in  the  Pangojiango  district 
— Death  of  Maunga — Visit  of  the  "  Camden  "      ....        lO.'} 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Teava  sent  to  our  aid— His  bistoiy,  character,  and  usefulness— May 
meetings— Pomare's  speech— First  decidedly  Christian  death- 
First  admissions  to  the  church  from  the  Leone  district — Biogra- 
phical sketch— Times  of  refreshing— Interesting  occurrence- 
Loving  darkness  rather  than  light— Kemarkable  conversion  .         110 

CHAPTER  XYII. 

Continued  progress— The  American  exploring  expedition— Ai-rival  of 
Mr  and  Mrs  Pratt  —Admissions  to  the  church — Deepening  and 
extension  of  the  work — First  decided  indications  of  its  passing 
into  the  revival  form — Removal  of  doubts  as  to  the  genuineness 
of  the  work — Revivals  in  Scotland         ......         lH' 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Hindrances— Steadfastness  of  the  people— Progress  of  the  awakening 
—Effect  upon  believers — Case  of  Lasalo — Conversations  with  the 
awakened — Close  of  the  year  1839— Reflections     ....        126 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Entering  upon  the  year  1840— Visit  of  Messrs  Heath  and  Buchanan — 
Visit  to  Leone  and  Vaitongi — Chapel-opening  at  Leone — Visit  to 
Manua  by  Messrs  Heath  and  Buchanan — Return  of  Maunga  and 
party  from  LTpolu — "War  threatened  but  averted — Chaj)el-opening 
at  Pangopango — Farewell  service  with  the  brethren  from  Upolii 
— Progress  of  the  awakening — First  death  in  the  church       .         .         l.")5 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Return  of  the  "  Camden  " — The  death  of  Messrs  WiUiams  and  Harris 
— Arrival  of  Messrs  Slatyer  and  Harbutt,  and  IMr  Lundie — Effect 
of  the  news  of  Mr  Williams"  death  upon  the  natives — A  hurricane 
— A  missionary  scene — Visit  to  UiJolu — Important  deliberations 
and  decision  respecting  the  "  Camden  " — Departure  on  a  second 
missionary  voj'age  ..........         144 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

General  remarks— State  and  prospects  of  the  work — Visit  to  Leone 
with  Mr  Slatyer — State  of  things  there— Additions  to  the  church 
— Missionary   meetings — First   contributions   to   the   missionary 
cause— Peculiarly  interesting  character  of  the  meetings — Great     . 
awakening  at  Leone- Effect  upon  the  Pangopango  district  .         .        152 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Special  services  at  Pangopango^Maunga  brought  under  convictions 
— Extinction  of  heathenism  in  tlie  village  of  Pangopango — -ISIis- 
sionary  voyage  to  Savage  Island — Case  of  Paulo,  a  native  of 
Savage  Island  —Second  anniversary  of  the  formation  of  the  church 
at  Pangopango        . 162 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Visit  to  Leone — Mr  Lundie — Meetings  for  prayer  and  intercourse — 
A  heathen  temj)le  and  sacred  grove — Increase  of  the  church — 
Exclusions  from  the  church — Conversion  of  an  Englishman — 
Sketch  of  liis  life .        1G9 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Wreck  of  an  English  whaler  in  Pangopango  harbour— A  hurricane — 
Close  of  the  year  1840 — Return  of  the  "Camden" — Success  of 
the  voyage — Visit  to  Upolu  and  arrangements  for  another  mis- 
sionary voyage— Preparations  for  the  voyage — Departure— Pro- 
ceedings among  the  islands  visited — Visit  to  Sydney — Return  to 
Samoa  with  a  party  of  missionaries  — State  of  Mr  Lundie's  health 
— Last  iUness  and  death — Remarks  thei'eon  .         .         .         .         178 

CHAPTER  XXV, 

State  of  things  on  Tutuila  on  our  return — The  remaining  heathen — 
Remarks  upon  the  commencement  of  1842— Opening  of  a  new- 
chapel  at  Leone — Bright  anticipations  on  the  occasion — Painful 
disappointments — Illness  of  Mrs  Slatyer — Return  of  the  "Cam- 
den "  from  a  voyage  among  the  Tahitian  and'  Hervey  Islands — 
Departure  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Slatyer — Their  subsequent  history       .         192 

CHAPTER  XXVL 

Arrangements  to  meet  altered  circumstances — Encouraging  state  of 
things — Failures  in  the  church — Maun ga's  defection — Subsequent 
course  and  death— Return  of  the  "Camden" — A  Gale — Depar- 
ture of  the  "  Camden  "  for  England — Remarks     ....         201 

CHAPTER  XXVIL 

Close  of  1842  and  entering  upon  1843— Continued  trials  and  difficul- 
ties— United  meeting  of  the  churches  at  Pangopango — Removal 
of  Mr  and  Mrs  BuUen  from  Upolu  to  Tutuila— Missionary  meet- 
ings— Mr  and  Mrs  BuUen  enter  upon  the  charge  of  the  Leone 
district  —  Plans  of  usefulness  —  I3oarding-school  at  Leone  — 
Teachers'  class  at  Pangopango — Prosperous  state  of  the  work — 
Continued  trials 209 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Visit  to  Upolu — Jleetings  of  the  mission— Commencement  of  the 
Malua  Institution — Arrival  of  Mr  Stallworthy— Settlement  and 
subsequent  course— Striking  and  affecting  close  of  his  life  and 
labours — Return  to  Tutuila— Mr  Bullen's  vasit  to  Manua— Mar- 
vellous deliverance  of  himself  and  party — Maj' meetings— State 
of  religion  on  the  island  at  the  close  of  1844— Serious  illness  of 
MrBullen 215 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Arrival  of  the  first  "  John  AVilliams  "—Return  of  Mr  Heath— Arrival 
of  Messrs  Powell  and  Sunderland — Visit  to  Upolu— Missionaiy 
voyage — Temporary  appointment  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Powell  to  Pango- 
pango— Interest  excited  by  the  voyage— Native  pioneers — Lead- 
ing incidents  of  the  voyage — Close  of  the  voyage— State  of  things 
on  Tutuila  on  our  return 227 

CHAPTER  XXX, 

Visit  of  H.M.S.  "  Daphne  "—Arrival  of  Mr  Consul  Pritchard— A 
message  from  Her  Majesty  Queen  Victoria  to  the  chiefs  of  Tutuila 
— Departure  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Powell — Jubilee  of  the  London  Mis- 
sionary Society — Encouraging  state  of  the  work — Departure  of 
the  "John  Williams"  for  England — Personal  trial  connected 
therewith — Arrival  of  the  Rev.  John  Geddie  and  party  from 
Xova  Scotia— Remarks  on  the  origin  and  bearing  of  their  mission        233 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Meeting  of  the  mission — Determination  to  attempt  the  formation  of 
a  mission  on  the  X'ew  Hebrides— Ai^pointment  of  Mr  BuUen  to  the 
projected  mission— Visit  of  Bishop  Selwyn— Remarks— Prepara- 
tions for  the  new  mission — Illness  and  death  of  Mr  Bullen  .         .         244 

CHAPTER  XXXII. 
Missionaiy  services— Return  of  the  "John  Williams"  from  England 
—Arrival  of  Messrs  Ella  and  Schmidt— Meeting  of  the  mission— 
Ai-rangements  to  meet  the  altered  circumstances  with  reference 
to  the  new  mission — Commencement  of  the  mission  on  Aneiteum 
of  the  Xew  Hebrides— Return  to  Tutuila— Visit  to  Leone- 
Encouraging  state  of  things  in  both  districts  on  Tutuila— Re- 
moval to  Leone 253 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

State  of  the  mission  at  the  close  of  1848— Occurrences  at  Pangopango 
—Missionary  meetings— Liberal  contributions— Painful  domestic 
trial— Remarks  thereon— Voyage  among  the  out-stations— State 
and  prospects  of  the  work— Return  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Powell  to 
Samoa,  and  settlement  at  Pangopango 260 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 
State  of  the  mission  on  Tutuila  on  our  return  from  our  voyage— Re- 
marks relative  to  the  Pangopango  district — Tour  round  the 
district — Progress  at  Leone — Special  meetings — A  hun-icaue  out 
of  season — Great  destruction  of  houses  and  fruit-trees — Landslip 
— Three  persons  killed — May  meetings  and  contributions  at  Leone 
— Scarcity  of  food — Resources  of  the  natives  in  times  of  scarcity 
— Story  of  the  Chinese  banana— The  Samoan  New  Testament — 
Removal  from  Tutuila  to  Manono  determined  upon      .         .         .         26(i 

CHAPTER  XXXY. 

Last  days  on  Tutuila— Visits  to  Pangopango — Last  Sabbath  at  Leone 
— Departure  for  Uiiolu — Return  with  Mr  and  Jlrs  Sundeiiand  to 
Tutuila — Reception  at  Manono — Description  of  Manono — Its  past 
history  and  present  position — State  of  the  mission — The  war — 
Eirst  proceedings  and  labours — Notice  of  Mamoe — Suspension  of 
the  war— Visit  to  and  description  of  Apolima — Revision  work — 
Renewed  preparations  for  war — Gloomy  close  of  1851  .         .         .         275 

CHAPTER  XXXVL 
Return  of  the  "John  "VTilliams  "  from  England — The  Rev.  W.  Law — 
A  painful  occurrence  connected  with  the  arrival  of  the  "John 
Williams" — Visit  to  our  out-stations  in  conjunction  with  Mr 
Sunderland — Cheering  prospects — Remarks— Revision  work  and 
missionary  meetings — A  veteran  missionary — Slight  symptoms  of 
progress  in  my  own  district— Decision  to  take  a  voyage  to 
Sydney    .         ." 288 

CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

Departure  from  Samoa — Arrival  in  S.ydney — Accident  to  the  "John 
Williams  " — Unexpected  arrival  in  Sydney — Another  missionarj' 
voyage — Continued  progress  on  Aneiteum — Mr  and  Mrs  Inglis — 
Sad  occurrences  on  Tanna — Progress  on  Eramanga,  VatiJ,  and  the 
Loyalty  Islands — Death  of  the  teacher  Setefano— Brief  notice  of 
his  life  and  character — Arrival  at  Samoa— Manono  abandoned  as 
a  principal  station — Revision  work — Appointment  to  Apia  .         .         293 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

Entering  upon  the  care  of  the  Apia  station — The  harbour  and  village 
of  Apia — Population,  native  and  foreign — The  island  of  Upolu — 
State  of  the  district — First  Sabbath  at  Apia — Arrival  of  IMessrs 
Creagh  and  Jones — Missionary  meetings — Hopeful  conversion  of 
an  imjiortant  chief —Arrangement  with  reference  to  Malua — 
Voyage  of  the  "  John  AVilliams  "  to  the  out-stations— Return  and 
departure  for  England  — Missionai-y  meetings— Contributions- 
Symptoms  of  improvement  in  the  Apia  district — Completion  of 
the  translation  and  printing  of  the  Samoan  Bible— Celebration  of 
the  event  throughout  the  group 2110 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX, 

Visit  of  the  United  States  ship  of  war  "St  Mary's  " — Proceedings  of 
Captain  Bailey— Visits  of  H.M.S.  "Juno"  and  "Dido"— The 
United  States  frigate  "  Independence  " — Extraordinary  proceed- 
ings— May  meetings — Mr  Mills  decides  not  to  return  to  the 
mission  field — JIrs  Mills — Definite  arrangement  with  reference 
to  the  Apia  station— Encouraging  indications— School  for  the 
children  of  foreign  settlers — Termination  of  the  war    .         .        .        311 

CHAPTER  XL. 

Early  months  of  1857  —  House-building  —  Return  of  the  "  John 
Williams"  from  her  fourth  visit  to  England— Retirement  of 
Captain  Morgan — Mr  and  Mrs  Gordon — Missionary  voyage  of  the 
"  John  Williams  " — A  voyage  to  Sydney — Return  voyage — Tahiti 
— Mr  Howe — "  The  right  man  in  the  right  place  " — Character 
and  death  of  Mr  Howe — Arrival  at  Samoa— Danger  in  communi- 
cating with  Pangopango— Reaching  home      324 

CHAPTER  XLI. 

Addition  of  the  Saluafata  station  to  that  of  Apia — History  of  the 
station — Contributions  to  the  London  Missionary  Society,  and 
for  the  support  of  native  pastors  during  1858 — Voyage  of  the 
"John  AVilliams "  among  our  out-stations — Introduction  of  the 
gospel  to  the  Tokelau  group— Encouragement  at  Apia — The  Eng- 
lish school — Resignation  of  Mr  Stearns — Some  particulars  relative 
to  Mr  Stearns— Hojieful  conversion  and  death  of  a  sojourner — 
Hopeful  conversion  and  death  of  an  old  settlei' — Revision  of  the 
Samoau  Bible — Missionary  meetings  and  contributions  for  1859 — • 
Another  voyage  of  the  "  John  Williams " — Location  of  Messrs 
M'Farlane  and  Baker  on  Lifu — Extract  from  the  report  of  the 
voyage — Departure  of  the  "John  Williams"  for  England — The 
Samoan  Bible  and  Aneiteum  New  Testament        ....         329 

CHAPTER  XLII. 

The  English  chapel — Visit  to  the  Falealili  district — Candidates — 
Schools,  &c. — Reflections — Visit  to  Saluafata — Proceedings  there 
— Arrival  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Drummond— Missionary  meetings  at 
Apia,  Saluafata,  and  Faiigaloa — Contributions — Another  visit  to 
Saluafata  and  Fangaloa — Description  of  Fangaloa— Our  own  cir- 
cumstances  341 

CHAPTER  XLIIL 

Prospects  again  darkened — A  week-service  in  English — Special  ser- 
vices throughout  the  mission — Missionary  meetings  and  contribu- 
tions for  home  and  abroad  for  1861 — Remarkable  conversion  of 
one  of  our  foreign  settlei's — Twenty-fifth  anniversary  of  our 
arrival  in  Samoa — Encouragement  among  the  foreign  community 


xiv  CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

— Keturn  of  the  "John  Williams"  from  England— Arrival  of 
Messrs  Lawes  and  Bird — Our  case  decided— Farewell  services  and 
parting  scenes— Departure — State  of  things  in  the  Apia  and 
Saluafata  districts  in  May  1862 349 

CHAPTER  XLIV. 

The  voyage — Trials  of  the  missions  in  the  New  Hebrides— Hopeful 
indications  on  Ei-amanga  and  Yate— Introduction  of  teachers  to 
Epi  and  Espiritu  Santo — Origin  of  the  mission  ship  "Dayspring" 
— Consultation  with  the  missionaries  of  the  Loyalty  Islands  mis- 
sion— Stay  on  Aneiteum— Departure  and  arrival  in  Sydney  .         359 

CHAPTER  XLV. 

Keturn  to  the  mission  field — Reappointment  to  the  Apia  station — 
Departure  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Gee — Resuming  work  at  Apia — Death 
of  Mr  Schmidt — Illness  and  death  of  Mrs  Bird — Death  of  Mr  J. 
M.  Blills — Dreadful  hurricane  and  loss  of  four  vessels  with  all 
on  board — Wreck  of  the  first  "John  AVilliams" — Death  of  Mrs 
Whitmee  and  Mr  Bird — Visit  to  Savaii— Close  of  the  year  1864 — 
Another  dreadful  hurricane — Wreck  of  a  vessel  in  Apia  harbour, 
and  loss  of  thirteen  lives 363 

CHAPTER  XLVI. 

First  missionary  voyage  to  the  Ellice's  group — Remarkable  origin  of 
the  voyage —Arrival  at  Nukulaelae — Iniquitous  doings  of  the 
Peruvian  slavers — Settlement  of  a  teacher — Funafuti — Doings  of 
the  slavers  there — Great  desire  of  the  people  for  a  teacher — 
Nukufetau — State  of  the  people  and  introduction  of  a  teacher 
— Vaitupu — The  first  home  of  the  original  settlei's— Interesting 
facts — Visit  to  Nui — Cheering  reception — Interesting  state  of 
the  ijeople — Their  origin — An  odd  character — Close  of  the  voyage 
— Reflections  ...........        375 

CHAPTER  XLVII. 

The  hand  of  God  again  upon  us — Visit  of  the  "Dayspring" — Call  at 
the  Tokelau  and  Ellice's  groups — Conveyance  of  teachers  to 
Vaitupu  and  Nui — Visit  to  Tutuila  and  Manua — A  second  voyage 
to  the  Ellice's  group— Arrival  at  Nukulaelae — Touching  inci- 
dents—Remarkable escape  of  a  native  from  a  slave-ship— Signs 
of  spiritual  life — An  interesting  Sabbath — Remarkable  preserva- 
tion from  shipwi'eck — Funafuti — wonderful  progress — Vaitupu — 
Great  advancement — The  first  church-going  bell  in  Ellice's  grouj) 
— State  of  the  mission  on  Nukufetau — From  light  to  darkness — 
The  cai:)tain  of  a  slave-ship  bafiied — A  horrid  tragedy — unautho- 
rised punishment — Visit  to  Nanomea — Curious  customs — Pre- 
ferring darkness  to  light — Objects  of  worship  and  sacred  relics — 
Visit  to  Nui — Wondei-ful  pi-ogress — Pleasant  intercourse  with 
the  natives— Close  of  the  voyage 394 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XLVIIL 

Notices  of  the  missions  on  Ellice's  group  continued — Visit  of  the  Eev. 
H.  Bingbam— Visit  of  tlie  Rev.  S.  J.  Wliitmee- State  of  the 
missions  on  Nukulaelae  and  Funafuti— Extraordinary  zeal  and 
liberality  of  the  people  of  Vaitupu— The  teacher  Peni  and  his 
work — State  of  the  mission  on  Nukufetau — Continued  progress 
on  Nui — Exemplary  generosity  of  the  people — Introduction  of 
the  gospel  to  Niutao— A  footing  gained  on  Nanomea — The  slavers 
again— Items  of  intelligence  from  the  reports  of  Messrs  Powell, 
Pratt,  and  Davies — Close  of  our  notices  of  these  missions    .        .        411 

CHAPTER  XLIX. 

Hopeful  commencement  of  18G7 — Wreck  of  the  second  "  John 
Williams" — Liberal  contributions — Arrangements  for  a  new 
edition  of  the  Samoan  Bible — Another  visit  to  Tutuila — Appoint- 
ment of  a  king — A  missionary  voyage  to  the  Tokelau  group — 
State  of  the  missions  on  Fakaofo  and  Atahu — Proceedings  there 
— Gloomy  prospects  in  Samoa — War  commenced — Indecisive 
struggles — One  of  the  war  parties  in  exile,  and  their  lands  and 
homes  in  the  hands  of  strangers — Alternations  of  liope  and  fear  424 

CHAPTER  L. 

Arrival  of  the  third  "  John  Williams  " — A  voyage  on  account  of 
health — Call  at  Aneiteum,  and  important  consultations — General 
impression  respecting  the  state  of  our  missions — Voyage  of  the 
"John  Williams  "  to  Sydney — Departure  of  Dr  and  Mi's  Turner 
for  England — The  new  edition  of  the  Samoan  Bible — Decision  to 
remove  to  the  Loyalty  Islands — The  revision  of  the  Bible  finished 
— More  fighting,  and  large  loss  of  life — Last  missionary  meetings 
in  Samoa — AVaiting — Cessation  of  the  war — The  Tuamasanga  re- 
stored to  their  own  land — Arrangement  for  our  departure — Our 
work  in  Samoa  done — Last  Sabbath  in  Samoa— Kindness  of 
natives  and  foreign  residents — Departure — Closing  remarks         .         434 

CHAPTER  LI. 

Arrival  at  Lifu — The  New  Guinea  mission  projected — origin  of  the 
mission — Transfer  of  our  interest  in  the  New  Hebrides  to  the 
Presbyterian  churches — First  voyage  to  New  Guinea — First  sight 
of  the  coast — Grand  appearance  of  the  island — Arrival  at  Darnley 
Island — Description  of  the  island  and  people — Teachers  intro- 
duced— Curious  customs — Visit  to  AVarrior  Island — Remarks  on 
the  island  and  natives — A  footing  gained  on  Tauan — The  island 
and  the  people — Appointments  of  the  teachers — Visit  to  Katau 
on  the  mainland — The  people,  houses,  etc. — Second  visit  to 
Darnley  Island — Visit  to  Cape  York — Redscar  Bay — Remarks — 
Return  voyage— Safe  arrival  at  ihe  Loyalty  Islands     .        .        .        445 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  LII. 

liemoval  to  Mare — Brief  notice  of  our  connection  with  the  Mare 
mission — Proposal  to  take  charge  for  a  time  of  the  New  Guinea 
mission — Voyage  in  the  "  John  Williams  "  to  Cape  York — Diffi- 
culties on  our  arrival — Conveyance  of  teachers  to  Murray  Islands 
— Cruise  among  the  islands  of  Torres  Straits — State  of  the 
mission — Arrangements  for  the  distribution  and  location  of  the 
teachers — Introduction  of  teachers  to  the  mainland — Commence- 
ment of  a  mission  on  Banks  Island — Visit  to  Darnley  Island — 
Remarkable  commencement  of  the  mission  on  Murray  Islands 
— Redscar  Bay — Settlement  of  teachers  there — Bampton  Island^ 
Introduction  of  teachers — Promising  appearances — The  Fly  River 
— Return  to  Cape  York 460 

CHAPTER  LIII. 

Departure  of  Mr  Gill — General  remarks  on  our  residence  at  Cape 
York  —  Difficulty  in  obtaining  vessels  —  Sickness  and  deaths 
among  the  teachers — Painfully  anxious  circumstances — Help  ren- 
dered by  Captain  Moresby — ]\Iurder  of  the  teachers  on  Bampton 
Island — Voyage  in  the  "Viking" — All  the  teachers  brought 
from  Redscar  Bay  to  Cape  York — Other  voj'ages  in  Torres  Straits 
— First  voyage  to  Port  Moresby— Location  of  teachers  at  Anua- 
pata — Second  voyage  to  Port  Moresby,  and  visit  to  all  the  stations 
in  the  Straits — Location  of  a  teacher  at  Boera — Arrival  of  Mr 
M'Farlane—  The  "  EUengowan  "— H.M. S.  "  Challenger  " — Kind- 
ness of  Captain  Nares — First  missionary  voyage  of  the  "EUen- 
gowan"— Supplementary  voyage — Arrival  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Lawes 
—  Arrival  of  the  "John  AVilliams"  —  Voyage  of  the  "John 
Williams  "  and  the  "  EUengowan  "  to  Port  Moresby — Location  of 
Mr  and  Mrs  Lawes — Return  of  the  "John  Williams"  to  Sydney         477 

CHAPTER  LIV. 

New  Guinea  as  a  field  of  missionary  enterprise — Notice  of  a  German 
mission  on  an  island  near  New  Guinea — General  descrijition  of 
New  Guinea — Discovery — Early  visitors — Remarks  on  "  Wander- 
ings in  the  Interior  of  New  Guinea" — The  inhabitants,  manners, 
customs,  &c.— Religious  belief  among  the  native  tribes  of  New 
Guinea  and  the  aborigines  of  Australia — Concluding  remarks — 
Encoui'agement — Certainty  of  final  triumph — Close  of  the  work  494 

Index 507 


CHAPTER     T. 


THE   VOYAGE. 


It  was  in  the  month  of  ISTovemher  1835  that  the  writer 
and  his  fellow-labourers  embarked  on  board  the  vessel 
that  was  to  convey  them  to  their  destination.  The 
voyage  they  had  before  them  was  a  formidable  under- 
taking. Widely  different  were  the  circumstances  in  which 
it  had  to  be  made  from  those  under  which  missionaries 
are  wont  to  proceed  to  their  fields  of  labour  in  these 
altered  times.  A  trading  vessel,  the  "  Dunnottar  Castle," 
one  hundred  and  eighty  tons  burden,  was  chartered  for 
the  occasion ;  and  it  was  arranged  that,  instead  of  taking 
the  usual  route  via  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  we  should  go 
by  way  of  Cape  Horn.  On  the  morning  of  the  7th  of 
the  above  month,  we  proceeded  by  steam  from  London  to 
Gravesend,  accompanied  by  a  number  of  friends  and 
relations,  wdiere  we  went  on  board  our  little  craft,  and, 
after  an  affecting  service  conducted  by  the  Rev.  John 
Arundel,  Home  Secretary  of  the  London  Missionary 
Society,  we  parted  from  the  loved  ones  we  were  leaving 
behind,  they  returning  to  their  various  avocations  in  the 
metropolis  of  the  world,  and  we  directing  our  course  to  a 
group  of  islands  at  the  ends  of  the  earth,  of  which,  at  that 
time,  not  a  great  deal  was  known  beyond  the  name.     It 

A 


2  THE  FAREWELL. 

is  affecting  to  think  liow  many  of  those  who  united  on 
that  memorable  day  on  board  the  "  Dunnottar  Castle  "  in 

singing — 

"  Jesus,  at  Tliy  command 
We  launch  into  the  deep,"  &c,, 

have  passed  away.  However,  we  sorrow  not  as  those 
who  have  no  hope ;  we  and  they  shall  shortly  meet  again ; 
and  how  blessed  will  be  the  contrast  between  that  meeting 
and  the  circumstances  in  which  we  bade  each  other  fare- 
well! 

And  now  the  last  ties  that  bound  us  to  dear  Old 
England  seemed  severed;  the  wide  world  was  before  us, 
and  blank  enough  were  our  prospects,  and  sad  enough 
were  our  hearts ;  but  a  measure  of  rehef  was  soon  found 
by  looking  to  Him  in  whose  service  and  at  whose  com- 
mand we  had  gone  forth,  and  in  thinking  of  the  work 
before  us,  in  the  prosecution  of  which  we  hoped  to  find 
more  than  an  equivalent  for  all  we  were  leaving  be- 
hind. 

Our  party  consisted  of  eleven,  viz.,  the  Eev.  Thomas 
Heath  and  Mrs  Heath,  the  Eev.  Charles  Hardie  and  Mrs 
Hardie,  the  Eev.  William  Mills  and  Mrs  Mills,  the  Eev. 
Alexander  M'Donald  and  Mrs  ]\I'Donald,  the  Eev.  George 
Barnden,  and  the  writer  and  his  wife.  We  were  on  the 
whole  a  happy  company — we  had  unity  with  variety  in  a 
striking  degree.  We  differed  in  age,  in  temperament,  as 
regarded  the  circumstances  of  our  early  life,  and  the  views 
we  had  formed  on  many  subjects,  and  we  were  compara- 
tive strangers  to  one  another ;  but  in  all  that  was  of  vital 
moment  we  were  one — we  were  all  one  in  Christ  Jesus ; 
and  we  were  all  animated  by  one  great  leading  desire  and 
purpose,  viz.,  to  make  known  the  gospel  of  the  grace  of  God 
among  the  benighted  tribes  scattered  over  the  isles  of  the 
great  Pacific  ; — that  was  the  ambition  that  filled  and  fired 
our  souls,  and  we  seemed  ready  to  encounter  any  trials  or 


DISCOMFORTS  OF  THE  VOYAGE.  3 

hazard  any  danfrers  tliat  miglit  lie  in  our  way  in  the  accom- 
plishment of  that  great  end.  Hence  the  hardships  and 
perils  of  the  voyage,  though  not  inconsiderable,  were  not 
much  accounted  of,  and  by  none  were  they  more  bravely 
borne  than  by  the  ladies.  The  indifferent  accommodations 
on  board  our  little  craft ;  the  scanty  and  poor  fare  on  which 
we  had  to  subsist  during  a  large  part  of  the  voyage ;  the 
piercing  cold  of  Cape  Horn,  off  which  we  were  driven 
hither  and  hither  by  fierce  winds  for  six  long  weeks,  when 
tlie  choice  lay  between  enduring  the  cold  on  deck  or  being 
all  but  stifled  with  smoke  below  ; — these  and  other  incon- 
veniencies  were  borne  with  heroic  fortitude.  The  Avriter 
looks  back  with  wonder  and  gratitude  to  these  trying 
times,  thankful  that  they  are  past  and  gone,  and  that  they 
were  suffered  in  the  interests  of  a  cause  that  is  altogether 
worthy. 

The  voyage  lasted  five  months,  during  the  whole  of  which 
time  we  saw  no  land  except  the  Cape  de  Verd  Islands  and 
the  bleak  Falkland  Isles,  of  which  we  had  distant  glimpses 
as  we  passed  along.  Owing  to  some  mistake  or  misman- 
agement in  furnishing  the  ship,  we  had  no  light  either  in 
our  cabins  or  in  the  saloon  during  a  considerable  part  of 
the  voyage,  so  in  the  long  dreary  evenings  off  Cape  Horn, 
we  had  either  to  remain  in  tlie  dark  below  or  in  the  cold 
on  deck.  But  what  is  the  use  of  perpetuating  the  remem- 
brance of  these  small  matters,  which  are  of  little  or  no 
moment  to  any  except  those  immediately  concerned  ? 
Perhaps  it  might  have  been  as  well  to  pass  them  by ;  but 
tliere  is  one  end  which  the  mention  of  them  may  answer, 
viz.,  to  read  a  lesson  of  contentment  to  missionaries  pro- 
ceeding to  or  from  their  fields  of  labour  in  these  days,  when 
voyaging  is  such  a  different  thing  to  Avhat  it  was  forty 
years  ago. 

We  had  frightful  weather  off  Cape  Horn.  It  was  mid- 
winter, and  the  cold,  of  course,  was  intense,  and  the  gales 


4  A  SAD  INCIDENT. 

and  seas  were  such  as  sometimes  shook  the  strongest  nerves 
among  us.  And  about  the  time  when  our  prospects  were  at 
the  darkest,  an  event  took  place  which  saddened  our  hearts 
more  than  anything  that  had  occurred  or  did  occur  during 
the  voyage.  It  happened  on  one  of  our  gloomiest  days. 
The  wind  was  blowing  a  gale  and  the  sea  running  mountains 
high.  A  young  man,  while  in  the  act  of  adjusting  a  rope 
near  the  end  of  one  of  the  yards,  fell,  or  rather  the  vessel 
gave  a  heavy  lurch,  and  he  was  engulfed  in  the  waves. 
Tlie  alarm  was  given — "  A  man  overboard  ! "  All  was  con- 
sternation. A  boat  was  lowered  with  all  possible  despatch, 
but  before  it  was  ready  to  leave  the  ship,  an  announce- 
ment was  made  which  fell  upon  the  heart  like  a  death- 
knell,  as  indeed  it  was — "  It  is  too  late ;  he  is  gone." 
He  was  so  loaded  with  clothing,  and  the  sea  was  so 
rough,  that  his  strength  was  soon  exhausted,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  from  the  time  of  his  falling  he  sank  to  rise 
no  more  till  the  sea  give  up  its  dead.  It  was  well  the 
boat  did  not  leave  the  ship.  If  it  had,  it  would  have 
been  in  great  danger  of  being  swamped,  and  in  that  case 
all  that  were  in  it  would  have  been  lost,  and  we  should 
not  have  had  hands  enough  left  to  work  the  ship.  There 
was  more  than  ordinary  interest  connected  with  the  young 
man  who  was  taken  from  us  in  circumstances  so  dis- 
tressmg.  He  was  the  only  son  of  his  mother,  and  she  was 
a  widow.  His  father  had  been  the  commander  of  a  ship, 
and  his  mother  was  the  daughter  of  a  higlily  respect- 
able minister  of  the  gospel,  who  filled  a  professor's  chair 
in  one  of  our  Northern  universities  some  half  a  century 
ago. 

About  a  week  after  the  occurrence  of  this  sad  event,  our 
circumstances  took  a  favourable  turn.  Matters  had  well- 
nigh  reached  a  crisis.  Provisions  were  getting  very  short ; 
there  was  no  prospect  of  a  change  of  wind ;  twice  had  we 
doubled  the  dreadful  Cape,  and  been  driven  back,  and  the 


TRYING  CIRCUMSTANCES.  5 

question  was  being  seriously  discussed  whether  we  had  not 
better  change  the  ship's  course  and  stand  away  for  tlie  Cape 
of  Good  Hope ;  but  it  was  a  choice  of  difficulties.  Had  we 
adopted  that  course  we  should  have  had  such  a  distance  to 
run,  that  we  should  in  all  probability  have  suffered  from 
scarcity  of  food  and  water. 

Under  these  circumstances,  we  seemed  shut  up  to  look 
simply  to  God.  So  we  all  felt  on  the  morning  of  Sabbath, 
February  the  20th.  We  consulted  together,  and  it  was 
arranged  that  in  all  the  services  of  the  day  our  peculiar 
circumstances  should  be  kept  in  view,  and  made  the  sub- 
ject of  special  reference  in  our  prayers,  and  that  in  the 
evening  we  should  have  a  prayer-meeting  instead  of  the 
usual  ser\'ice.  Perhaps  at  no  time  had  our  situation 
appeared  more  hopeless  than  on  that  Sabbath  morning. 
We  had  passed  a  dreadful  night,  and  there  were  no  signs 
of  improvement.  There  was  a  tremendous  sea,  and  our 
little  bark  was  being  tossed  about  apparently  at  the 
mercy  of  the  winds  and  waves,  now  mounting  aloft,  then 
descending  into  the  yawning  depths,  and  seeming  as  if 
at  any  moment  it  might  be  engulfed ;  but  "  man's  ex- 
tremity is  God's  opportunity."  Deliverance  was  at  hand. 
Fervent  prayer  was  offered  throughout  the  day,  but  that 
day  closed,  as  so  many  before  it  had  done,  without  any 
change. 

The  hour  for  the  evening  service  drew  on,  and  we  were 
about  to  meet  to  carry  out  the  arrangement  of  the  morn- 
ing. But  "  before  they  call  I  will  answer."  An  announce- 
ment from  the  deck,  such  as  had  not  been  made  for  many 
a  day,  was  heard — "  A  change  of  wind  ! "  "  About  ship." 
Oh,  what  a  joyful  surprise  ! — our  prayers  were  largely 
turned  into  praises ;  the  crisis  was  past,  and  from  that 
time  forward  we  proceeded  on  our  way  without  further 
interruption.  The  storms  of  Cape  Horn  were  soon  left 
behind,  and  instead  we  had  over  us  a  cloudless  sky,  and 


6  A  HAPPY  TRANSITION. 

under  us  the  gentle  waves  of  the  great  Pacific,  reaKsing  to 
us  noiD  the  significance  and  appropriateness  of  the  name. 

It  would  interest  the  reader  little  to  be  told  how  we 
spent  our  time  during  these  long  weary  months.  We 
were  not  idle,  nor  was  our  time  spent  upon  trifles.  AVe 
felt  ourselves  on  the  eve  of  entering  upon  a  great  work — a 
work  to  which  we  looked  as  our  life-work — and  only  those 
subjects  and  occupations  that  had  a  pretty  direct  bearing 
upon  that  work  had  much  interest  for  us.  Hence  our 
circumstances  shaped  our  studies,  directed  our  reading, 
determined  the  subjects  we  discussed,  and  gave  a  char- 
acter to  all  our  intercourse.  And  so  our  voyage  passed 
away.  During  the  closing  weeks  we  had  delightful  sail- 
ing— all  the  more  enjoyed  on  account  of  what  had  gone 
before ;  and  on  the  30th  of  March  1836  we  reached  the 
Marquesas  Islands,  and  made  our  first  acquaintance  with 
actual  heathenism  and  actual  missionary  life.  "  Then  are 
they  glad  because  they  be  quiet ;  so  He  bringeth  them  to 
•their  desired  haven." 


(  7  ) 


CHAPTER  II. 

PROGRESS  OF   THE   VOYAGE  TOWARDS  OUR   ULTIMATE  DESTINATION — 
OCCURRENCES   BY   THE   WAY. 

The  sight  of  land  after  our  long  voyage  was  inexpressibly 
cheering.  j\Iany  voyages  has  the  "svriter  made  since  that 
memorable  day  when  our  eyes  first  gazed  upon  the 
Marquesas  Islands,  as  one  after  another  they  were  descried 
in  the  distance,  and  as  we  drew  nearer  and  nearer  their 
shores,  but  never  again  has  the  sight  of  land  awakened 
such  intensely  joyous  emotions. 

Land  was  seen  about  7  A.M.  During  the  course  of 
the  day  we  passed  three  islands,  high,  bold,  and  rugged ; 
and  towards  evening  we  made  Santa  Christina,  the  island 
to  wliich  we  were  bound.  On  that  island  two  of  our 
missionary  brethren,  Messrs  Eogerson  and  Stallworthy, 
had  been  labouring  for  a  short  time — about  eighteen 
months — and  we  caried  letters  and  supplies  for  them  from 
England.  Towards  evening  we  drew  near  the  part  of  the 
island  to  which  we  were  bound — Eesolution  Bay.  As  we 
approached  the  anchorage,  which  we  did  not  reach  till  an 
hour  or  more  after  sunset,  a  number  of  natives  came  off 
to  us,  and  all  was  speedily  bustle  and  excitement.  Tlie 
Marquesans,  at  the  time  referred  to,  were  among  the  most 
degraded  and  debased  of  all  the  tribes  of  Eastern  Polynesia. 
Their  covering  was  of  the  scantiest  kind,  and  their  whole 
appearance  and  bearing  were  to  us  exceedingly  repulsive. 


8  FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  HEATHENISM. 

Hence  some  of  our  party  were  much  shocked,  and  were 
inclined  to  doubt  whether  they  had  suificiently  counted 
the  cost  of  the  undertaking  in  which  we  had  embarked. 
We  had  read  and  heard  much  of  heathens,  and  had  formed 
ideas  as  to  their  appearance  and  character  ;  but,  when  we 
actually  saw  them,  we  found  that  our  notions  differed 
widely  from  the  reality.  This  was  to  be  accounted  for 
partly  by  the  fact  that  we  saw  the  worst  first;  and  for 
some  reasons,  perhaps,  that  was  to  be  regretted.  Had  any 
of  our  party  been  half-hearted  in  their  attachment  to  the 
cause  of  missions,  the  consequences  might  have  been 
serious.  As  it  was,  however,  it  was  all  right.  The  first 
shock  was  soon  got  over,  and  we  were  prepared  to  appre- 
ciate what  had  been  accomplished  in  our  older  missions  to 
an  extent  we  should  not  otherwise  have  been ;  and,  more- 
over, it  was  a  good  preparation  for  what  was  before  us  in 
our  own  field  of  labour. 

Mr  Eogerson  came  on  board  to  welcome  us  on  the 
evening  of  our  arrival;  and  on  the  following  morning 
we  all  went  on  shore,  anxious  to  see  all  that  was  to  be 
seen,  and  to  do  all  in  our  power  to  cheer  the  hearts  and 
strengthen  the  hands  of  the  little  missionary  band  in  the 
trying  circumstances  in  which  they  were  placed.  We 
found  that  they  had  been  pursuing  their  work  amid  great 
discouragements.  No  visible  impression  had  been  made. 
Stm  our  friends  were  disposed  to  labour  on  in  hope  that 
in  due  time  they  should  reap. 

The  missionary  premises — the  brethren  had  succeeded 
in  putting  up  a  pretty  comfortable  house — were  situated 
in  the  bosom  of  a  small  fertile  valley  covered  with  bread- 
fruit, cocoa-nuts,  bananas,  and  other  tropical  productions. 
At  a  short  distance  behind,  rose  mountains  to  the  height 
of  from  2000  to  3000  feet,  part  of  the  central  ridge  which 
extends  nearly  the  whole  length  of  the  island,  and  sends 
down,  at  intervals,  spurs  which  terminate  precipitously  in 


THE  MARQUESAS  MISSION.  9 

the  sea.  Over  one  of  these,  the  gentlemen  of  our  party 
managed  to  clamber,  and  beyond  it  we  found  another  valley 
exactly  similar  to  the  one  in  which  the  mission  settlement 
stands ;  and  so,  we  were  told,  it  is  pretty  much  all  round 
the  island — ^mountain  spurs  running  down  into  the  sea, 
with  rich  valleys  between,  in  which  are  found  the  villages 
of  the  natives.  It  is  difficult  to  conceive  anything  more 
rich  and  beautiful  than  are  these  valleys ;  but  oh  !  the 
dense  darkness  that  covers  them,  and  the  cruelties  and 
abominations  that  are  practised  in  them — enough  to  make 
one  "  hang  one's  head,  and  blush  to  think  oneself  a  man." 
The  consolation  is,  that  it  will  not  be  so  always.  The  foul 
orgies  of  idolatrous  worship  and  the  cruelties  and  abomi- 
nations of  heathenism  will  not  always  pollute  these  lovely 
valleys.  The  Prince  of  Peace  will  yet  claim  them  for  His 
own,  and  the  songs  of  Zion  will  yet  echo  from  valley  to 
valley  and  from  rock  to  rock  throughout  all  these  beautiful 
isles — the  glory  of  the  Lord  will  yet  cover  them  as  the 
waters  cover  the  sea. 

Santa  Christina  is  a  small  island — perhaps  not  more 
than  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles  in  circumference,  and,  at 
the  time  of  our  visit,  the  population  was  estimated  at 
about  1500. 

Our  circumstances  did  not  allow  of  our  makin^  a  Ions 
stay  with  our  friends.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  3d  of  April 
they  came  on  board,  and  we  had  a  farewell  service,  after 
which  we  bade  each  other  adieu. 

A  short  time  after  our  visit,  Mr  and  Mrs  PtOgerson 
removed  to  the  Tahitian  group,  the  state  of  things  among 
the  Marquesans  being  such  that  it  was  not  considered  proper 
for  a  married  missionary  to  remain  among  them.  On  the 
arrival  of  the  "Camden,"  in  1838,  another  unmarried  mis- 
sionary, Mr  Thomson,  joined  Mr  Stallworthy,  and  these 
brethren  laboured  on  for  some  years.  Contrary,  however, 
to  our  experience  in  all  other  fields  which  we  have  at- 


lo  SUCCESS  OF  THE  MISSION. 

tempted  to  cultivate  in  Eastern  Polynesia,  no  visible 
impression  was  made,  and  the  mission  was  at  length 
abandoned. 

It  is  with  great  satisfaction  we  add,  that,  for  a  number 
of  years,  successful  missionary  operations  have  been  carried 
on  on  the  group  by  oiative  Hawaiian  missionaries  sent  by 
the  American  missionaries  labouring  on  that  group.  They 
are  supported  by  the  Hawaiian  Missionary  Society,  and 
superintended  by  tlie  missionaries,  who  make  periodical 
visits  to  the  islands  in  the  American  missionary  ship 
"Morning  Star."  This  effort  was  commenced  in  1857. 
On  the  1st  of  June  of  that  year,  the  "Morning  Star" 
anchored  off  Hivaoa,  one  of  the  islands  of  the  group,  and 
the  subsequent  history  of  the  islands  seems  to  prove  that 
her  arrival  was  to  them  what  her  name  imports — the  har- 
binger of  day. 

A  brief  extract  from  the  report  of  a  missionary  from  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  the  Eev.  Titus  Corn,  who  visited  the 
mission  in  1860,  will  bear  me  out  in  the  opinion  I  have 
expressed : — "  Never  have  I  enjoyed  a  season  of  deeper, 
purer  interest  than  in  meeting  these  tamed  savages,  these 
happy  Christian  converts  from  amid  darkness  the  most 
deep,  depravity  the  most  profound,  and  pollutions  the 
most  loathsome."  And  a  few  words  which  may  be  quoted 
from  one  of  the  native  Hawaiian  missionaries  are  equally 
conclusive  that  a  work  of  God  is  in  progress  among  the 
Marquesans.  "God  sent  us  here,"  said  the  good  man,  "not 
man.  He  has  preserved  us,  our  wives  and  little  ones,  in 
perils  by  sea,  in  perils  among  robbers,  and  in  perils  by  war. 
He  has  given  us  influence  and  favour  among  the  people, 
so  that  our  names  are  sacred  and  our  persons  safe.  He 
has  made  us  mediators  between  bloodthirsty  and  vindictive 
foes.  He  has  drawn  numbers  from  the  tahils  and  from  all 
heathen  orgies,  and  made  them  our  docile  pupils.  Above 
all.  He  has  given  us  souls.     There  is  a  church,  there  are 


TAHITI.  II 

Christians,  saiuts,  here,"  &c.  All  honour  to  the  worthy 
men  and  women  who  are  bearing  the  heat  and  burden  of 
the  day  on  the  Marquesas  !  Peace  be  with  them  !  May 
the  Master  whom  they  serve  cheer  them  by  growing 
tokens  of  His  presence  and  blessing — rendering  their 
labours  more  and  more  effective,  and  multiplying  tlieir 
converts  a  thousand-fold  ! 

On  the  evening  of  April  the  3d,  we  took  our  departure 
from  the  Marquesas  and  stood  for  the  next  island  to 
which  we  were  bound,  the  far-famed  Tahiti,  and  on  the 
morning  of  the  12th  of  April  the  high  land  was  seen. 
We  did  not  get  to  anchor  till  the  14th.  All  day  on  the 
13  til  we  were  becalmed  about  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  from 
the  land.  Thus  w^e  had  ample  leisure  to  gaze  upon  the 
bold,  lofty  mountain  ranges,  with  the  hills  and  valleys  of 
the  "  Queen  of  the  Pacific,"  as  Tahiti  was  at  that  time 
regarded — to  reflect  upon  its  eventful  history,  so  inspiring 
and  heart-stirring  to  the  young  missionary,  and  to  antici- 
pate our  own  future  as  that  was  pictured  in  our  sanguine 
imaginations. 

We  got  to  anchor  towards  noon  on  the  14th,  and  soon 
after  went  on  shore  ;  and  now  we  were  repaid  for  the  shock 
we  had  endured  at  the  Marquesas.  What  a  contrast  met 
us !  Certainly  but  for  what  we  had  seen  we  should  not 
have  been  impressed  as  we  were,  nor  should  we  have 
appreciated  as  we  did  the  wonders  which  God  had 
wrought  at  Tahiti.  We  remained  till  the  20th,  so  we 
had  sufficient  time  to  look  about  us.  We  had  the  privilege 
of  meeting  with  all  tlie  missionary  brethren  then  on  the 
island — a  privilege  which  we  did  not  lightly  prize.  There 
were  tlie  representatives  of  three  generations  of  missionaries. 
There  was  Mr  Henry,  the  sole  survivor,  who  remained  in 
the  field,  of  the  party  that  sailed  in  the  first  voyage  of 
the  "Duff."  Mr  Nott  was  still  alive,  but  he  was  absent  at 
the  time  on  a  visit  to  Encdand.     There  were  Davies  and 


12        FIRST  SABBATH  IN  THE  MISSION  FIELD. 

Wilson,  the  survivors  of  the  second  party  by  the  "  Duff," 
with  Messrs  Darling,  Pritchard,  and  Orsmond,  who  had 
joined  the  mission  at  later  periods.  We  made  it  our 
business  to  learn  all  we  could  here  and  elsewhere  as  we 
passed  along,  and  we  did  learn  much  that  was  of  great 
value  to  us  in  our  future  work. 

The  first  Sabbath  which  missionaries  spend  in  the 
mission  field  is  generally  a  time  of  great  interest — a  time 
when  feelings  are  experienced  and  impressions  received 
which  are  never  forgotten  or  lost.  So  it  was  emphatically 
with  us.  The  sight  of  a  congregation  of  about  a  thousand 
people,  who  only  a  few  years  before  had  been  cruel 
savages,  wallowing  in  the  vilest  abominations  of  heathen- 
ism, decently  clothed  and  gathered  together  for  the  worship 
of  the  true  God — to  hear  their  songs  of  praise,  and  witness 
the  devout  and  intelligent  interest  with  which  they  seemed 
to  attend  to  the  various  parts  of  the  service,  was  indeed 
a  deeply  moving  sight.  One  incident  that  occurred  at  the 
close  of  the  afternoon  service  is  worthy  of  a  permanent 
record.  Mr  Pritchard,  who  was  the  missionary  at  Papeete 
at  the  time  of  our  visit,  invited  us  to  ask  the  congregation 
any  question  we  might  think  proper.  One  of  our  number 
proposed  a  question  to  the  following  effect : — Wliat  would 
you  think  of  parting  with  your  missionaries  and  returning 
to  heathenism  ?  The  answer  was  given  by  one  of  the 
seven  judges  of  the  island,  and  was  as  follows  : — "  This  is 
what  I  have  to  say  in  answer  to  your  question.  It  is  like 
a  spear  pointed  at  the  heart  and  partly  inserted  in  the 
breast.  I  will  reply  to  it  by  asking  you  two  questions : 
first,  The  people  of  England  were  once  heathens  as  well  as 
we ;  how  would  they  like  to  part  with  all  their  ministers 
and  teachers  and  return  to  their  former  state  ?  Or,  how 
would  the  directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society  like 
such  a  thing  after  what  they  have  expended  upon  Tahiti 
and  done  for  Tahiti  ?     Our   answer  to  your  question  is 


TRIUMPH  OF  CHRISTIANITY.  13 

decidedly,  No.  And  even  were  the  missionaries  to  leave 
us,  we  should  by  no  means  go  back  to  our  former  state." 

Poor  people !  little  did  either  they  or  we  imagine  that 
in  a  few  years  the  supposition  as  to  missionaries  leaving 
them  would  be,  with  a  solitary  exception,  an  actual  fact. 
It  is  delightful  to  tliink,  however,  that  notwithstanding  all 
that  has  occurred,  they  have  not  gone  back  to  their  former 
state — that  Tahiti  is  still  a  Christian  land,  and  to  feel 
assured  that  so  it  will  in  the  main  continue  to  be,  for  the 
bulwark  of  truth  is  there.  The  Bible  is  in  the  hands  of 
the  people  in  a  language  which  they  can  read  and  under- 
stand, and  thus  a  foundation  is  laid  against  which  the 
gates  of  hell  shall  not  prevail. 

On  leaving  Tahiti  we  crossed  over  to  the  neighbouring 
island  of  Eimeo,  twenty-five  miles  distant.  Eimeo  has  a 
historic  interest.  It  formed  a  convenient  retreat  in  the 
early  years  of  the  mission,  when  troubles  arose  on  the 
large  island,  rendering  temporary  withdrawal  necessary ; 
and  after  the  suspension  of  the  mission  for  a  season,  the 
missionaries  on  commencing  it  began  their  efforts  on 
Eimeo,  and  thence  extended  them  to  the  large  island. 
To  Eimeo  also  the  Christian  party  fled  in  1815,  when  a 
confederacy  to  exterminate  them  had  been  formed  among 
the  heathen,  who  at  that  time  were  a  vast  majority. 
Intelligence  of  the  plot  was  happily  conveyed  to  the 
Christians  in  time  to  allow  of  their  escape.  At  Eimeo 
they  put  themselves  in  a  position  to  defend  themselves ; 
thither  their  enemies  followed  them,  and  on  a  Sabbath-day, 
when  the  Christians  were  assembled  for  divine  service, 
they  made  a  furious  attack  upon  them.  The  result  was, 
not  the  extermination  of  Christianity,  but  of  heathenism ; 
and  from  that  time  onward  Christianity  was  in  the  ascen- 
dant in  Tahiti  and  Eimeo.  The  clemency  of  the  king, 
Pomare,  and  the  Christian  chiefs  towards  the  vanquished 
heathen  completely  overcame  them,  and  led  to  the  entire 


14  VISIT  TO  HU AMINE. 

subversion  of  idolatry.  It  is  one  of  tlie  finest  illustrations 
on  record  of  the  divine  plan  of  subduing  and  winning  an 
enemy* 

After  a  few  days  of  pleasant  intercourse  with  the  mis- 
sionaries whom  we  met  on  Eimeo,  we  again  put  to  sea. 
"We  sailed  on  the  5th  of  May,  and  stood  for  Huahine.  As  on 
Tahiti  and  Eimeo,  heathenism  had  long  been  a  thing  of  the 
past  in  Huahine.  At  the  time  of  our  visit,  out  of  a  popu- 
lation of  1800,  400  were  members  of  the  Church,  the  Bible 
was  in  every  dwelling,  and  Hualiine  was  a  professedly 
Christian  and  partially  civilised  land.  The  Eev.  Charles 
Barff,  who  had  laboured  on  the  island  since  1818,  was  still 
the  missionary,  and  so  he  continued  till  1864,  w^hen,  worn 
out  with  his  long  and  faithful  service,  he  retired  to  New 
South  Wales,  and  in  1866  he  finished  his  course  and  entered 
into  rest. 

We  had  much  pleasant  and  proiitable  intercourse  with 
Mr  Barff  and  his  family  during  our  rather  long  stay  at 
Huahine.  We  gathered  much  interesting  information  re- 
specting the  Tahitian  mission,  and  met  some  very  inte- 
resting characters  among  the  natives,  who  had  played  an 
important  part  in  the  struggles  of  early  days.  Perhaps 
the  most  interesting  and  remarkable  of  these  was  Maliine 
the  grandfather  of  Pomare,  the  present  queen  of  Tahiti. 
He  remembered  Captain  Cook ;  he  was  about  twelve  years 
old  when  Captain  Cook  visited  the  island.  But  the  most 
signal  event  of  his  past  life  was  his  having  commanded 
Pomare's  troops  when  the  engagement  above  referred  to 
took  place  between  the  Christian  and  heathen  parties  on 
Eimeo.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  he  must  have  been  nearly, 
if  not  quite,  eighty  years  of  age.  He  was  a  venerable, 
patriarchal  looking  man.  He  was  large  of  stature,  over 
six   feet,  and  stout  in  proportion ;  he  must  have  been  a 

*  See  the  deeply  interesting  record  in  full  in  Ellis's  "  History  of 
the  London  Missionary  Society,"  pp.  216-219. 


THE  RAROTONCAN  MISSION.  15 

formidal)le  opponent  when  in  liis  prime.  He  seemed  to 
realise  his  nearness  to  eternity,  and  was  calmly  waiting  his 
dismissal  from  the  body.  The  thought  of  meeting  in 
heaven  British  Christians  who  had  sent  the  gospel  to  him 
and  his  people  seemed  to  afford  him  great  joy. 

On  the  18th  of  May 'we  sailed  from  Huahine,  accompanied 
by  Mr  Barff,  who,  as  an  experienced  missionary,  and  as 
knowing  something  of  the  field  to  which  we  were  aj)pointed, 
went  at  the  request  of  the  Directors  to  assist  us  in  the 
commencement  of  our  mission.  Mr  Barff  was  with  Mr 
Williams  when  he  made  his  first  visit  to  the  Samoan  group, 
and  during  Mr  Williams'  absence  in  England  he  had  made 
a  second  -vasit  to  the  group  in  company  with  Mr  Buzacott. 

From  Huahine  we  stood  for  Piarotonga,  and  on  the  25tli 
of  May  we  made^that  island ;  and  greatly  were  we  charmed 
with  its  beauty,  and  cheered  with  what  we  saw  and  heard 
during  the  few  days  of  our  stay.  The  Karotongan  mission 
was  still  in  its  early  youth.  Scarcely  thirteen  years  had 
passed  since  Messrs  Williams  and  Bourne  made  their  first 
visit  to  the  island  and  placed  Christian  teachers  among  its 
then  most-deeply  debased  people ;  and  it  was  only  nine 
years  since  Mr  Pitman,  the  first  resident  English  missionary, 
had  settled  upon  it.  After  a  short  interval,  Mr  Pitman 
was  joined  by  Mr  Buzacott,  and  at  the  time  of  our  visit 
those  esteemed  brethren  were  pursuing  their  labours  in 
circumstances  of  the  most  cheering  character.  The  entire 
population,  estimated  at  that  time  at  7000,  had  renounced 
heathenism,  and  given  up  or  destroyed  their  idols.  Not  a 
vestige  of  idolatry  was  to  be  seen,  and  the  entire  population 
were  applying  themselves  with  the  utmost  avidity  to  the 
acquisition  of  knowledge  and  to  efforts  for  the  improve- 
ment of  their  condition,  both  as  regards  the  life  that  now 
is  and  the  life  to  come.  Greatly  were  we  delighted  with 
what  we  saw  at  Earotonga,  and  pleasant  and  profitable  was 
the  intercourse  we  had  with  our  brethren. 


i6  CLOSE  OF  THE  VOYAGE. 

We  sailed  on  the  30th  of  May,  Mr  and  ]\Irs  Buzacott 
accompanying  us,  to  remain  with  us  for  a  few  months  and 
assist  in  the  commencement  of  our  mission. 

We  had  now  entered  upon  the  last  stage  of  our  long 
voyage.  The  next  land  on  which  we  should  look,  if  all  went 
well,  would  be  the  loiig-talked-of  Samoa,  our  own  chosen 
sphere  of  labour.  This  of  course  awakened  in  us  very 
peculiar  feelings,  and  led  to  anxious  and  earnest  consulta- 
tions as  to  plans  and  proceedings  when  we  might  reach  our 
destination.  A  great  era  in  our  lives  was  at  hand;  the 
dreams  of  youth  and  the  fondly-cherished  hopes  of  riper 
years,  which  had  stimulated  and  sustained  some  of  us  in 
grappling  with  and  overcoming  the  difficulties  which  once 
lay  in  our  path,  were  about  to  be  realised.  Solemn,  joyous, 
grateful  emotions  filled  our  hearts.  A  thorough  conviction 
of  the  worth  and  importance  of  the  cause  in  which  we  were 
embarked,  with  confidence  in  Him  to  whom  the  cause 
belonged,  imparted  to  us  firmness  and  strength,  and  so, 
thankfully  and  hopefully,  we  went  on  our  way. 


(  17  ) 


CHAPTEE  III. 

REACHING  THE  FIELD— GIKDING  ON  THE  ARMOUR — ENTERING  UPON 
THE  WORK. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  Sabbath,  the  5th  June  1836,  we 
sighted  the  most  easterly  islands  of  the  Samoan  group. 
These  are  three  in  number,  named  respectively  Tau,  Ofu^ 
and  Olosenga,  but  bearing  the  general  name  of  Manua. 

The  population  of  the  three  islands  is  a  little  over  1500. 
It  was  not  intended  to  attempt  the  occupation  of  these 
islands  at  once ;  hence,  we  did  not  wait  to  communicate 
with  them,  but  passed  on  towards  the  larger  islands,  and 
in  the  evening,  about  five  o'clock,  Tutuila,  the  most  easterly 
of  these,  was  seen. 

Tutuila  was  the  field  to  which  Mr  Barnden  and  myself 
were  appointed  ;  hence  I  felt  in  it  a  special  interest, 
and  strained  my  eyes  for  hours  to  catch  the  first  glimpse 
of  our  future  home.  We  did  not  get  sufficiently  near  to 
have  intercourse  with  the  people  till  the  following  day. 
Early  on  the  morning  of  that  day,  June  the  6th,  we  were 
close  in  to  the  shore,  and  were  soon  surrounded  by  canoes. 
The  people  came  on  board  without  difficulty,  and  our  first 
impressions  of  them  were  favourable.  They  contrasted  ad- 
vantageously with  the  Marquesans,  and  were  quite  equal 
to  what  we  had  expected  to  find  them.  We  were  surprised 
to  see  a  white  man  among  them.  Tommy,  as  the  natives 
called  him,  was  a  Welshman.     He  had  been  on  Tutuila 

B 


i8  ARRIVAL  AT  SAMOA. 

about  twenty  months.  He  professed  to  be  well  acquainted 
with  the  natives,  their  language,  &c.  How  much  his  in- 
formation was  worth  may  he  conjectured  from  the  reply 
he  gave  to  our  question  as  to  the  number  of  people  on  the 
island.  Tommy  seemed  rather  reluctant  to  hazard  an 
opinion,  but  after  some  hesitancy  he  replied,  "Well,  sir, 
I  don't  think  there's  past  a  million  !  "  The  population  of 
Tutuila  has  never,  since  we  have  known  it,  exceeded,  if  it 
has  reached,  4000. 

Passing  along  the  coast  till  we  were  abreast  of  what  was 
at  that  time  regarded  as  having  been  the  scene  of  the 
massacre  of  the  French  commander,  De  Langle,  and  party, 
and  which,  on  that  account,  bore  the  name  of  Massacre 
Bay,  a  number  of  us  landed.  The  bay  in  which  the  mas- 
sacre took  place,  as  I  afterwards  learned  on  the  spot,  is 
about  three  miles  farther  to  the  west,  and  is  called  Asu. 
The  name  of  the  place  at  which  we  landed  is  Fangasa. 
Our  party  consisted  of  the  two  elder  brethren,  Messrs 
Barff  and  Buzacott,  aud  Messrs  Hardie  and  Barndeu,  and 
myself.  We  walked  across  tlie  island  to  a  deep  bay  oppo- 
site called  Fangaloa — i.e.,  deep  bay.  We  had  been  given 
to  understand  that  we  should  find  here  an  important  chief 
and  a  good  harbour.  The  information  proved  correct  in 
both  these  respects.  After  climbing  for  about  half  an 
hour  a  very  steep  ascent,  we  reached  the  summit  of  a 
mountain  ridge  where  a  magnificent  view  opened  upon  us. 
Fangaloa  is  from  three  to  four  miles  deep.  It  is  completely 
land-locked,  and  looks,  viewed  from  the  surrounding  heights, 
rather  like  a  fresh-water  lake  than  a  bay  of  the  great 
Pacific.  It  is  surrounded  by  steep  mountains,  from  eight 
hundred  to  one  thousand  feet  in  height,  and  is  a  beautiful 
object  as  seen  from  the  spot  where  it  first  burst  upon  our 
view.  Pangopango,  the  principal  village,  is  at  the  head 
of  the  bay.  After  a  very  rugged  and  fatiguing  walk,  we 
reached  our  destination,  met  Mcmnga,  the  chief  of  whom 


PROCEEDINGS  A  T  TUTUILA.  19 

we  were  in  search,  and  had  a  very  satisfactory  interview 
with  him  and  otliers  who  crowded  around  us.  Maunga 
decLared  his  willingness  to  receive  missionaries^  and  afford 
them  all  the  assistance  and  protection  in  his  power.  We 
wished  him  to  go  with  us  to  Upolii,  the  central  island  of 
the  group,  where  we  hoped  to  get  together  all  the  leading 
chiefs,  to  explain  to  them  the  object  of  our  mission,  and 
make  arrangements  for  carrying  out  our  plans.  He  ex- 
cused himself  on  the  ground  of  age  and  infirmities,  but 
proposed  that  his  son,  who  bore  the  name  of  Pomare, 
should  go  in  his  stead.  To  this  we  agreed,  and,  after  a 
short  time,  left  to  recross  the  island  to  join  the  ship, 
which  was  waiting  for  us. 

"We  got  on  board  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  and  stood 
away  towards  tlie  west  end  of  the  island,  keeping  close  in 
to  the  land,  and  as  we  passed  along  we  were  hailed  by  a 
party  in  a  large  canoe,  and  were  surprised  and  delighted  to 
find  that  the  said  party  were  from  the  island  of  Manono, 
and  that  the  Karotongan  teacher  Tcava  was  in  the  canoe. 
He  had  come  to  ascertain  the  state  of  things  on  Tutuila, 
and  preach  the  gospel  to  its  then  benighted  people. 

He  had  been  about  six  weeks  on  the  island,  had  made  a 
complete  tour  of  it,  and  was  just  ready  to  return  to  Manono 
when  we  arrived.  It  is  worth  noting  how  opportune  his 
visit  was.  It  was  just  as  if  he  had  been  sent  to  pre- 
pare our  way.  No  Christian  teachers  had  been  settled  on 
Tutuila.  Those  brought  by  Mr  Williams  and  others  were 
all  stationed  on  the  islands  to  the  west,  Savaii,  JJ^olw,  and 
Manono ;  nor  had  any  of  them  made  a  visit  to  Tutuila 
}3efore  that  by  Teava  at  the  time  of  our  arrival.  Thus,  but 
for  his  visit,  we  should  have  been  very  much  in  the  dark 
with  reference  to  the  state  of  things  on  Tutuila,  and  there 
might  have  been  difficulty  in  commencing  a  mission  on  the 
island  at  that  time,  and  thus  all  our  plans  might  have  been 
disarranged.     Two  other  men  of  importance,  in  addition  to 


20  ARRIVAL  AT  UPOLU. 

Pomare,  came  on  board  before  we  got  clear  of  the  island, 
to  go  with  us  to  Upolii.  Tliey  were  from  Leone,  and  went 
to  represent  the  district,  about  one-half  of  the  island,  of 
which  it  is  the  head-quarters.  One  of  them  was  Aiiioamo,* 
mentioned  in  Mr  Williams'  Narrative,  p.  415,  in  connection 
with  his  visit  to  Leone  in  1832  ;•  the  other  was  a  man  named 
Taulani,  who  became  a  very  decided  Christian,  and  acted 
an  important  part  in  the  evangelisation  of  the  island.  I 
have  rarely  known  a  more  exemplary  Christian  than 
Taulani.  After  a  life  of  distinguished  usefulness  he  died 
only  a  few  years  since,  and  met,  I  doubt  not,  the  welcome 
of  the  faithful  servant. 

It  was  after  sundown  before  we  were  ready  to  stand 
away  for  Upolu.  We  ran  on  with  a  fair  wind  during  the 
night,  and  early  on  the  following  morning  we  found  our- 
selves sailing  along  the  north  side  of  Upolu.  We  were  all 
charmed  with  the  beauties  of  that  lovely  island,  which 
seemed  to  us  to  surpass  all  we  had  yet  seen.  During  the 
course  of  the  forenoon  we  entered  the  harbour  of  Apia,  and 
dropped  anchor  in  a  Samoan  port.  This  was  on  Tuesday 
the  7tli  of  June,  just  seven  calendar  months  to  a  day  from 
the  time  of  our  leaving  England. 

Before  arriving  at  our  destination,  we  constituted  our- 
selves a  committee  for  the  transaction  of  all  business  affect- 
ing the  general  interests  of  the  mission.  Prior  to  this,  we 
had  arranged  as  to  the  translation  of  the  New  Testament. 
The  whole  was  apportioned  out  that  each  might  have  before 
him  his  portion,  and  be  able  to  direct  his  reading  and 
studies  accordingly. 

Our  first  meeting  for  business  was  held  on  board  the 
"  Dunnottar  Castle,"  on  the  3d  of  June  1836.  The  princi- 
pal minutes  adopted  at  that  meeting  may  be  given.  They 
are  important  on  account  of  their  connection  with  the 

*  The  name  is  Amuauiu,  uot  "  Anioamo." 


FIRST  MEETING  FOR  BUSINESS.  21 

management  of  our  mission  in  subsequent  years.     Tliey 
are  as  follows  : — 

"  Pursuant  to  the  suggestion  contained  in  tlie  written 
instructions  received  by  us  from  the  Directors  of  the  London 
Missionary  Society,  we,  the  undersigned,  do  form  ourselves 
into  a  committee  for  the  management  of  the  general  affairs 
of  the  mission  intrusted  to  us  in  the  Samoan  Islands. 

"  And  it  is  resolved  unanimously, — 1.  That  a  meeting 
of  the  committee  be  held  quarterly,  that  is,  on  the  first 
Wednesday  in  the  months  of  September,  December,  March, 
and  June  ;  and  that  such  meetings  be  held  at  the  several 
stations  in  rotation,  that  in  September  next  being  at 
Manono." 

[It  was  found  impracticable  to  hold  meetings  quarterly 
on  account  of  the  distance  between  the  stations.  They 
have  been  held  half-yearly,  and  this  has  been  found  to 
answer  well.] 

The  next  minute,  No.  2,  constituted  the  brethren 
Barff,  Buzacott,  Piatt,  and  Wilson  members  of  the  com- 
mittee during  their  stay  amongst  us,  and  appointed  Mr 
Buzacott  chairman  so  long  as  he  should  remain  (Messrs 
Piatt  and  Barff  returned  by  the  "  Dunnottar  Castle "  to 
their  own  stations  in  the  Tahitian  Islands),  and  Mr  Heath 
secretary.     The  third  resolution  is  as  follows  : — 

"  3.  That  all  questions  on  which  any  difference  of  opinion 
may  exist  shall  be  decided  by  a  majority  of  votes,  and 
that  if  the  members  ^;ro  and  con  be  equal,  including 
the  chairman's  vote,  then  the  question  shall  be  decided 
by  lot."  (Down  to  the  close  of  1870  it  had  not  been 
necessary  to  have  recourse  to  the  lot,  nor  had  any  member 
ever  recorded  a  formal  protest  against  the  decision  of  the 
majority.) 

"  4.  That,  at  the  request  of  any  member  of  the  mission, 
the  secretary  do  call  a  special  meeting  at  the  station  of 
the  person  requiring  the  same,  by  giving  the  several  mem- 


22  CONFERENCE  WITH  THE  CHIEFS. 

bers  due  notice ;  and  that  the  present  meeting  be  con- 
sidered adjourned  from  day  to  day,  Sabbaths  excepted, 
until  the  brethren  part  to  take  possession  of  tlieir  several 
stations." 

We  did  not  proceed  further  at  our  first  sitting,  but  we 
were  now  in  a  position  to  deal  in  a  business-like  manner 
with  whatever  subject  might  require  our  attention. 
Another  rule  on  which  we  have  all  along  acted  was,  that 
all  our  meetings  should  be  begun  and  closed  with  prayer ; 
and  that  a  prayer-mcc^mr/  should  be  held  among  ourselves 
before  proceeding  to  business,  and  after  its  completion 
before  separating  to  go  to  our  respective  stations ;  and 
that  a  meeting  should  be  held  with  the  natives  during 
the  course  of  our  sittings,  for  prayer  and  other  religious 
exercises. 

On  the  10th  of  June,  Messrs  Piatt  and  "Wilson,  who  had 
been  sent  by  the  brethren  of  the  Tahitian  mission  to 
spend  a  few  months  in  Samoa,  arrived  from  the  island  of 
Savaii,  where  they  were  at  the  time  of  our  arrival.  They 
had  been  about  eighteen  months  on  the  islands  ;  they  had 
obtained  a  considerable  hold  of  the  language,  and  had 
been  fully  employed  in  travelling  from  place  to  place, 
preaching  to,  and  teaching  the  thousands  who  had 
abandoned  heathenism,  and  attached  themselves  to  the 
new  religion. 

On  Saturday,  the  lltli  of  June,  we  had  our  meeting  with 
the  chiefs.  We  laid  before  them,  through  Mr  Wilson,  the 
object  of  our  mission — viz.,  that  we  had  come  as  teachers 
of  religion ;  that  our  first  and  great  business  would  be  to 
instruct  them  in  matters  pertaining  to  that,  and  that  every- 
thuig  else  would  be  strictly  subordinated  to  that. 

We  were  very  particular  in  explaining  that  we  could 
take  no  part  in  their  wars.  We  told  them  that  war  was 
bad,  and  that  we  should  do  our  utmost  to  prevent  its 
arising ;  and  that,  if  it  should  arise,  we  could  be  no  par- 


FIRST  SABBATH  IN  SAMOA.  23 

tisans,  but  would  only  act  the  part  of  mediators,  and  bo 
the  friends  alike  of  all  parties. 

Having  laid  fully  and  explicitly  before  the  meeting  all 
"we  considered  it  necessary  to  say  ;  and  asked  whether,  in 
view  of  all  we  had  said,  the  chiefs  and  people  wished  us 
to  remain  among  them,  we  waited  for  then'  reply.  It  was 
all  we  could  wish.  They  expressed  their  approval  of  all 
we  had  said ;  they  promised  to  place  themselves  under 
our  instruction,  and  to  do  their  best  to  protect  ourselves 
and  our  property,  and  to  assist  us  in  every  way  in  thek 
power  in  carrying  out  the  object  of  our  mission. 

So  passed  off  this  important  meeting,  one  of  the  most 
important  gatherings  that  ever  took  place  in  Samoa,  con- 
sidering its  bearing  on  the  subsequent  history  and  destiny 
for  time  and  eternity  of  the  Samoan  race.  The  way  was 
now  clear  for  us  to  separate  and  go  to  our  respective 
stations.  Before  doing  so,  we  were  privileged  to  spend  a 
Sabbath  together  at  Apia ;  and  what  a  Sabbath  of  hallowed 
interest  was  that  in  the  enjoyment ! — and  how  tender  are 
the  recollections  of  it  to  survivors  now  after  the  lapse  of  so 
many  years  !  Large  native  congregations  assembled,  morn- 
ing and  afternoon,  and  were  addressed  in  their  own  language 
by  Messrs  Piatt  and  Wilson.  But  to  us  the  interest  cul- 
minated in  a  communion  service,  which  was  held  during 
the  course  of  the  day.  The  teachers  and  their  wives  had 
come  together  from  their  different  stations,  and  they,  with 
Messrs  Piatt  and  Wilson,  and  ourselves,  made  up  a  con- 
siderable company — about  thirty.  How  significant  was 
that  ser\dce  !  How  delightfully  interesting  to  the  Christian 
mind !  What  memories  was  it  fitted  to  awaken,  and  with 
what  high  anticipations  to  fill  the  mind  !  It  was  the  first 
link  of  a  chain  in  the  history  of  Samoa  that  would  assuredly 
extend  onwards  "  until  He  come."  Never  till  then  will 
there  be  wanting  those  who  shall  show  forth  His  death  in 
Samoa.     Nor  have  the  bright  anticipations  and  high  hopes 


24  PROCEEDING  TO  OUR  RESPECTIVE  STATIONS. 

of  that  sacred  hour  been  frustrated.  From  the  services  of 
that  Sabbath,  and  other  transactions  that  occupied  us 
during  these  memorable  days,  have  gone  forth  influences 
which  have  told  upon  the  destinies,  present  and  eternal, 
not  of  the  Samoans  only,  but  of  multitudes  in  many  lands, 
and  whose  issues  will  continue  to  reproduce  and  extend 
themselves  till  time  shall  be  no  more. 

From  the  point  we  have  now  reached  our  paths  began 
to  diverge.  Hitherto  we  had  been,  from  the  time  of  leav- 
ing England,  as  one  family.  Now  we  were  about  to 
separate  and  go  to  our  respective  stations,  and  the  service 
above  referred  to  was  our  farewell  service.  We  parted  at 
the  Lord's  table  on  earth,  not  all  to  meet  again  till  we 
shall  be  gathered  together  at  "  tlie  marriage  supper  of  the 
Lamb." 

On  the  morning  of  the  16th,  Mr  and  ]\Irs  Mills  took 
their  leave  of  our  floating  home,  and  settled  at  Apia, 
the  place  to  which  tliey  had  been  appointed ;  and  on  the 
same  day  we  sailed,  and  stood  over  to  Manono  to  land 
Mr  and  ]\Irs  Heath,  and  their  property.  On  the  morning 
of  the  18th  they  quitted  the  vessel,  and  took  up  their 
abode  on  their  island  home. 

From  Manono  we  stood  towards  Savaii.  The  two  islands 
are  separated  by  a  narrow  channel,  from  twenty-five  to 
thirty  miles  in  breadth.  To  Savaii  Mr  and  Mrs  Hardie 
and  Mr  and  Mrs  M'Donald  were  appointed.  Circum- 
stances had  rendered  it  necessary  for  Mr  and  Mrs  M'Donald 
to  remain  at  Earotonga  for  a  time,  so  we  had  only  Mr  and 
Mrs  Hardie  to  convey  to  their  station.  We  had  got  so 
near  the  island  that  a  boat  was  lowered,  into  which  a  party 
of  us  descended  in  order  to  proceed  to  the  shore.  We 
had  left  the  ship  but  a  short  time,  when  the  ofiicer  who 
was  in  charge  of  the  boat  looked  behind  and  perceived 
that  she  had  struck  on  some  rock  or  slioal.  We  made  all 
haste  back,  and  found  all  confusion  and  consternation  on 


NARROW  ESCAPE  FROM  SHIPWRECK.  25 

board.  The  ship  was  in  extreme  danger,  striking  heavily 
every  few  minutes,  and  appearing  as  if  she  would  very 
soon  be  a  wreck.  The  rudder  was  unshipped,  and  it 
seemed  as  if  more  serious  damage  must  speedily  follow. 
By  great  exertion,  however,  she  was  got  clear  of  the  patch 
of  coral  on  which  she  had  struck,  and  was  again  afloat  in 
deep  water  ;  but  she  was  surrounded  with  shoals,  and  was 
still  in  great  danger,  and  in  that  state  she  lay  from  Saturday 
the  18th  of  June  till  Wednesday  the  23d.  On  the  day  the 
accident  occurred,  the  wind  was  strong  and  the  sea  rough. 
Hence  it  was  a  marvel  that  she  escaped.  Through  the 
favour  of  a  kind  Providence,  the  weather  was  moderate 
during  the  intervening  days.  Had  it  been  otherwise,  it 
seems  as  if  the  vessel  must  have  been  wrecked.  On 
Wednesday  morning  a  gentle  land  breeze  took  her  out 
of  danger — a  very  great  mercy,  especially  to  those  of  us 
who  had  everything  we  owned  on  board,  and  who  were 
dependent  upon  her  to  get  to  our  stations.  There  were  no 
trading  vessels  about  in  those  days.  Hence  if  our  vessel 
had  been  wrecked,  many  months  must  have  passed  before 
we  could  have  got  to  our  stations,  and  our  whole  subse- 
quent course  might  have  been  seriously  affected.  All 
ended  well  however.  We  cried  unto  God  in  our  trouble, 
and  He  delivered  us  out  of  our  distresses. 

While  the  vessel  lay  in  the  circumstances  above  described, 
Mr  Hardie's  property  was  landed,  and  he  and  Mrs  Hardie, 
and  Mr  and  Mrs  Buzacott,  who  were  about  to  remain  with 
them  for  a  season,  left  and  took  up  their  abode  on  shore. 
Hence,  when  the  vessel  was  got  out  of  danger,  we  had 
nothing  to  detain  us  longer  at  Savaii,  so,  not  reluctantly, 
we  left  the  scene  of  danger  and  consequent  anxiety, 
and  directed  our  course  back  to  Upolu.  A  makeshift 
rudder  was  rigged,  and  we  got  safely  to  anchor  in  Apia 
harbour  on  the  24th.  Here  we  were  detained  till  the  5th 
of  July,  owing  to  the  accident  that  befell  us  at  Savaii.    The 


26  RETURN  TO  TUTUILA. 

rudder  had  to  be  repaired,  and  to  get  that  done  in  Samoa 
in  those  days  was  a  matter  of  no  small  difficulty.  At  the 
above  date,  however,  it  was  completed,  and  we  had  the  great 
satisfaction  of  again  putting  to  sea  and  entering  upon  the 
last  stage  of  our  voyage. 


(  27  ) 


CHAPTER  lY. 

LAST  STAGE  OF  OUR  VOYAGE — SETTLEMENT  AT  OUR  OWN  STATION. 

The  distance  between  Apia  and  Pangopango  is  only  about 
eighty  miles,  but  Tutmla  lies  dead  to  windward  of  Upolu, 
and  there  are  also  strong  opposing  currents ;  hence  the 
time  occupied  in  passing  from  island  to  island  is  generally 
altogether  out  of  proportion  to  the  distance.  And  in  this, 
our  first  voyage,  it  was  so  in  an  unusual  degree. 

As  mentioned  above,  we  left  Apia  on  Tuesday,  5th  July, 
and  we  did  not  reach  Pangopango  till  the  10  th.  Early 
on  the  morning  of  that  day  we  were  close  to  land,  and  in 
a  good  position  for  entering  the  harbour ;  and  duriag  the 
course  of  the  forenoon  a  fair  wind  enabled  us  to  enter  the 
beautiful  bay,  which  we  have  so  often  entered  since,  and 
connected  with  which  we  have  so  many  pleasing  and 
solemn  recollections.  It  had  only  been  entered  once  before 
by  a  foreign  vessel.  A  London  whaler,  the  "  Elizabeth," 
Captain  Cuthbert,  anchored  in  the  bay  a  few  months  before 
our  arrival.  She  was  guarded  night  and  day  by  her  own 
crew,  assisted  by  white  men — English  and  American — who, 
at  that  early  day,  had  taken  up  their  abode  on  the  island. 
The  wliitc  shins  of  these  men  commended  them,  I  suppose, 
to  the  confidence  of  the  captain.  The  truth  is,  there  was 
more  to  be  feared  from  them  than  from  the  natives,  most 
of  them  being  desperate  characters,  who,  accordiug  to  re- 
port, had  managed  to  escape  from  Van  Dieman's  Land,  or 


28  PANGOPANGO  HARBOUR. 

Botany  Bay.  However,  the  "  Elizabeth  "  got  safely  away, 
and  Captain  Cuthbert,  as  being  the  first  who  had  anchored 
in  the  harbour,  gave  it  the  name  of  "  Cuthbert  Harbour." 
The  name  never  obtained  anything  like  general  currency. 
An  influential  notification  was  needed  in  order  to  tliat, 
which  Captain  Cuthbert  failed  to  procure.  The  conse- 
quence has  been  that  the  native  name,  Pangopango  Har- 
])0ur,  has  superseded  tlie  foreign  one,  and  is  now  universally 
accepted. 

We  were  all  charmed  witli  the  entrance  to  the  bay.  It 
is  magnificent — the  grandest  sight  we  had  seen  during  the 
whole  of  our  voyage.  Many  equally  heautiful  sights  are  to 
be  seen  among  the  isles  of  the  Pacific,  but  in  some  respects 
this  stands  alone — it  is  perfectly  unique.  The  description 
by  Captain  (now  Admiral)  Wilkes,  of  the  United  States  Ex- 
ploring Expedition,  which  visited  Samoa  towards  the  close  of 
1839,  may  be  given  : — "  The  harbour  of  Pangopango  is  one 
of  the  most  singular  in  all  the  Polynesian  isles.  It  is  the 
last  point  at  which  one  would  look  for  a  shelter  ;  the  coast 
near  it  is  peculiarly  rugged,  and  has  no  appearance  of  in- 
dentations, and  the  entrance  being  narrow,  is  not  easily 
observed.  Its  shape  has  been  compared  to  a  variety  of 
articles ;  that  which  it  most  nearly  resembles  is  a  retort. 
It  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  inaccessible  mural  preci- 
pices, from  eight  hundred  to  one  thousand  feet  in  height. 
The  lower  part  of  these  rocks  is  bare,  but  they  are  clothed 
above  with  luxuriant  vegetation.  So  impassable  did  the 
rocky  barrier  appear  in  all  but  two  places,  that  the  harbour 
was  likened  to  the  valley  of  '  Easselas '  changed  into  a  lake. 
The  harbour  is  of  easy  access,  and  its  entrance,  which  is 
about  a  third  of  a  mile  in  width,  is  marked  by  the  Tower 
Eock  and  the  Devil's  Point."  These  names,  I  suppose, 
were  given  by  Captain  Wilkes.  I  never  heard  of  them  till 
after  his  visit. 

A  coral  reef  on  each  side  of  the  entrance,  over  which  the 


SE TTLEMENT  AT  PA NGOPA NGO.  29 

sea  generally  breaks  heavily,  adds  to  the  picturesqueness 
and  beauty  of  the  scene.  The  reef  extends  about  half-way 
up  the  bay,  but  inside,  instead  of  heavy  rollers,  the  waves 
break  softly  over  the  opposing  barrier,  and  gently  die  along 
the  shore. 

But  to  return  from  this  digression.  About  2  p.m.  we 
landed,  and  as  it  was  Sabbath,  we  got  the  people  together, 
and  had  a  service  with  them.  Mr  Wilson,  who  was  best 
acquainted  with  the  language,  was  the  preacher.  Shortly 
after  the  service  we  returned  to  the  ship,  to  close  quietly 
the  last  Sabbath  we  were  to  spend  there.  On  the  follow- 
ing day  our  goods  were  landed,  and  on  Tuesday  we  quitted 
the  ship,  and  took  up  our  abode  in  a  native  house,  kindly 
given  up  by  the  chief  Mauuga  for  our  use. 

Our  kind  friends,  Messrs  Piatt  and  Barff,  lent  us  very 
valuable  aid  during  the  few  days  they  were  with  us ;  and  it 
was  no  small  trial  to  us  when,  on  the  15th  of  July,  they 
took  their  departure,  and  left  us  alone  in  our  new  and  un- 
tried circumstances. 

On  that  day  the  "  Dunnottar  Castle  "  sailed.  And  now 
our  small  party  was  left  on  a  dark  heathen  shore,  with  no 
opportunity  of  escape  should  trouble  arise,  and  no  human 
means  of  safety  or  defence.  Native  houses  have  neither 
locks  nor  bars.  In  truth,  we  felt  ourselves  very  insecure ; 
but  our  apprehensions  arose,  not  so  much  from  our  being 
in  the  power  and  at  the  mercy  of  the  heathen,  as  from  the 
character  of  the  men  already  referred  to — men  of  our  own 
colour,  and  speaking  our  own  tongue,  whom  Ave  found  u]3on 
the  island. 

And  now  our  narrative  must  take  a  more  contracted 
form.  So  far  we  have  given  all  the  leading  events  con- 
nected with  the  commencement  of  the  Samoan  mission; 
but,  as  we  do  not  purpose  to  write  a  history  of  the  mis- 
sion, we  shall  now  conhne  ourselves  to  matters  more  or  less 
directly  connected  with  our  own  work,  and  the  spheres  we 


30  SCOPE  OF  THIS  WORK. 

have  been  called  to  occupy  during  our  protracted  term  of 
service.  Such,  however,  have  been  our  relations  to  the  mis- 
sion throughout  the  period  over  which  these  recollections 
will  extend,  that  they  ^vill  unavoidably  have  something  of 
an  historical  relation  to  the  whole  mission. 


(  31  ) 


CHAPTER  V. 

ENTERING  UPON  OUR  WORK— DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  ISLAND — STATE  OF  THE 
NATIVES — WHITE  MEN  AMONG  THE  NATIVES — AN  EXCEPTIONAL  CASE — 
HOSTILITY  TO  US  AND  OUR  WORK — MURDER  OF  A  WHITE  MAN  BY  THE 
NATIVES — DISPERSION  OF  THE  WHITES. 

The  first  tiling  that  claims  the  attention  of  a  missionary  to 
a  people  of  a  strange  tongue  on  reaching  his  field  of  labour 
is  the  language.  Till  that  is  in  a  good  degree  acquired, 
there  is  between  him  and  his  people  a  middle  wall  of 
partition  that  interposes  an  effectual  barrier  to  the  carry- 
ing out  of  his  object.  He  and  they  dwell,  as  it  were,  apart ; 
though  living,  it  may  be,  in  close  proximity,  they  are  really 
strangers  to  each  other.  Such  being  our  conviction,  we 
had  endeavoured  to  do  a  little  on  the  voyage  towards 
acquiring  a  knowledge  of  the  Tahitian  language,  which  is 
a  kindred  dialect  to  that  of  Samoa. "  We  had  also  a  few 
words  and  sentences  of  the  Samoan,  which  we  had  obtained 
from  Mr  Williams  in  England,  and  from  the  time  of  our 
reaching  the  islands  we  had  been  picking  up  words  and 
sentences  as  opportunity  offered ;  and  now  we  were  in 
circumstances  to  set  to  work  in  good  earnest.  We  had 
some  help  from  Mr  Wilson,  who  had  been  appointed  to 
assist  us  at  the  commencement  of  our  mission,  but  at  the 
close  of  six  weeks  he  left  us,  and  we  were  thrown  upon 
our  own  resources,  and  placed  in  circumstances  in  which 
we  were  compelled  to  be  talking  to  the  natives  all  day 


32  DESCRIPTION  OF  TUTUILA. 

long,  and  tliis  had  its  advantages  as  well  as  its  disadvan- 
tages. Our  young  friend  Pomare,  who  accompanied^  us 
to  Upolu,  became  our  instructor ;  and,  with  his  help  and 
constant  practice,  we  were  soon  able,  to  a  considerable 
extent,  to  understand  and  be  understood. 

The  island  of  Tutuila  is  the  smallest  of  the  three  prin- 
cipal islands  of  the  group.  It  is  about  twenty  miles  in 
length,  and  five  or  six  at  its  greatest  breadth.  Captain 
Wilkes'  description  of  it  is  as  follows  : — "  The  island  of 
Tutuila  is  high,  broken,  and  of  volcanic  appearance.  It  is 
seventeen  miles  long  "  (in  a  straight  line,  I  suppose,  but  the 
island  is  something  of  a  curve),  "  and  its  greatest  breadth 
is  five  miles.  The  harbour  of  Pangopango  penetrates  into 
the  centre,  and  almost  divides  the  island  into  two  parts. 
It  is  less  varied  in  surface  than  the  Society  Islands,  and 
its  highest  peak,  that  of  Matafao,  was  found  to  be  2327 
feet  above  the  sea.  The  spurs  and  ridges  that  form  the 
high  land  are,  like  those  of  Tahiti,  precipitous,  sharp-edged, 
and  frequently  rise  in  mural  walls  from  the  water  to  a 
height  of  three  or  four  hundred  feet,  showing  the  bare 
basaltic  rock.  Above  this  height  the  surface  is  covered 
with  luxuriant  vegetation  to  the  very  top  of  the  mountains  ; 
the  cocoa-nut  tree  and  tree-fern  give  the  principal  character 
to  this  beautiful  scenery." 

There  is  one  thmg  that  gives  Tutuila  an  advantage  over 
the  larger  islands,  viz.,  its  harbour.  There  is  no  harbour 
in  the  group  at  all  comparable  to  that  of  Pangopango  for 
safety.  There  is  but  one  drawback — the  entrance  is  narrow, 
and  the  prevailing  trade-wind  blows  right  into  the  bay ; 
hence  it  is  difficult  of  egress,  and  sailing  vessels  anchoring 
in  it  run  the  risk  of  being  detained  for  an  indefinite  time. 
But  for  steamers  there  is  no  harbour  in  Eastern  or  Central 
Polynesia,  so  far  as  my  knowledge  extends,  which  can  bear 
comparison  with  it.  Should  a  time  come  when  steam  shall 
be  in  extensive  use  iu  these  seas,  the  harbour  of  Pango- 


STATE  OF  THE  NATIVES.  33 

pango  will  take  rank  with  the  first  resorts  of  shipping  in 
the  Pacific  Ocean. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  bay  which  forms  the  harbour  we 
took  up  our  abode,  and  entered  upon  our  labours.  The 
population  at  the  time  of  our  settlement  was  about  four 
thousand,  rather  under,  I  think,  than  over.  Politically 
there  are  two  divisions  of  the  island ;  Pangopango  is  the 
headquarters  of  the  one,  Leone  of  the  other.  The  Leone 
division  has  the  larger  population.  It  was  somewhat  over 
two  thousand. 

At  the  time  we  commenced  our  labours  darkness  cov- 
ered the  island — darkness  almost  unbroken.  A  few  rays  of 
light  had  found  their  way  from  the  other  islands,  where 
teachers  had  been  at  work  for  about  six  years,  by  means 
of  travelling  parties,  and  especially  the  visit  of  Teava ;  and 
sometliing  liad  been  done  by  a  foreigner  who  left  the  island 
a  few  months  before  our  arrival.  "VVe  could  never  learn 
much  respecting  this  person — not  even  his  true  name. 
Among  the  foreigners  he  went  by  the  name  of  JSforval ; 
his  native  name  was  Salima — probably  intended  for  Salem. 
Xorval,  I  doubt  not,  was  an  assumed  name.  When  he 
knew  that  missionaries  were  at  hand  he  left  the  island, 
and  nothing  was  ever  afterwards  heard  of  him.  He  evi- 
dently was  not  a  truly  religious  man,  as  he  led  an  immoral 
life  ;  but  he  taught  the  natives  some  truth,  and  was  instru- 
mental, in  some  measure,  in  preparing  the  way  for  us. 
He  induced  a  number  of  the  people  to  renounce  heathenism 
and  become  nominally  Christian.  Among  these  were  the 
chief  Maunga,  his  son  Pomare,  and  others  by  whom  we 
were  received  on  our  arrival.  When  he  left  the  island  he 
told  his  adherents  to  receive  us  when  we  should  arrive, 
and  place  themselves  under  our  instruction.  Hence  the 
ready  welcome  with  wliicli  we  met.  He  had  translated, 
after  a  fashion,  part  of  the  Church  of  England  Prayer-Book, 
and  taught  some  young  men  to  repeat  it.     So  when  we 

c 


34  WHITE  MEN  AMONG  THE  NATIVES. 

arrived  we  found  a  man,  who  had  been  authorised  by  him, 
actually  keeping  up  a  sort  of  service. 

I  notice  the  case  of  Norval  and  his  doings  the  more 
particularly  as,  in  some  of  its  aspects,  it  forms  a  striking 
exception  to  the  conduct  and  influence  of  the  class  to  which 
he  seems  to  have  belonged — the  class  of  outcasts,  who  seek 
concealment  and  an  opportunity  to  live  as  they  list  amid 
the  darkness  and  pollution  of  heathen  lands. 

Well  would  it  have  been  for  the  island  and  for  us  if  all 
the  foreigners  who  found  their  way  to  it  prior  to  our  arrival 
had  been  of  the  stamp  of  NorvaL  Far,  however,  was  this 
from  being  the  case.  We  found  on  the  island  some  dozen 
or  more,  among  whom  were  men  of  the  most  desperate 
character  I  ever  came  in  contact  with  before  or  since.  As 
Tutuila  remained  in  the  darkness  of  heathenism  so  much 
longer  than  the  other  large  islands  of  the  group,  it  seemed 
to  be  the  favourite  resort  of  these  sons  of  Belial.  Where 
these  men  had  come  from,  or  how  they  had  reached  the 
island,  was,  in  most  cases,  involved  in  mystery.  According 
to  current  report,  as  already  hinted,  the  worst  of  them  had 
escaped  from  the  adjacent  colonies,  at  which,  in  those 
days,  there  were  penal  settlements.  Whatever  their  ante- 
cedents may  have  been,  they  were  men  of  the  most  reckless 
and  abandoned  character,  and  they  were  decidedly  the 
most  formidable  opponents  with  whom  we  had  to  contend 
at  the  outset  of  our  career.  Some  of  them  had  been  many 
months  on  the  island ;  hence  they  had  got  a  considerable 
hold  of  the  language,  and  had  gained  some  influence  over 
the  natives.  Thus  they  had  a  great  advantage  over  us, 
and,  but  for  their  infamous  characters,  their  opposition 
would  have  been  a  much  more  serious  affair  than  it  really 
was.  We  could  not  speak  a  language  which  the  natives 
could  understand,  but  we  could  act  one  which  they  were 
not  slow  to  comprehend.  Tlie  language  of  deeds  is  intel- 
ligible even  to  pagans. 


HOSTILITY  OF  THE  FOREIGNERS.  35 

Our  opponents  were  determinedly  and  Litterly  opposed 
to  us  and  our  object.  "  They  that  do  evil  hate  the  light." 
These  men  had  been  fleeing  from  the  light,  and,  to  their 
intense  annoyance,  the  light  was  following  them.  They 
were  perfectly  aware  that  our  success  would  be  their 
defeat.  Hence  their  virulent  opposition.  When  they 
heard  of  Tcava's  intended  visit,  they  assembled  at  Leone, 
which  would  be  among  the  first  places  he  would  reach, 
determined  to  oppose  his  landing.  One  of  the  better  class 
of  them,  for  they  were  not  all  equally  bad,  managed  to 
dissuade  them  from  their  purpose.  They  were  not  sure, 
moreover,  that  the  natives  would  not  take  sides  with  their 
visitors  against  them,  and  in  that  case  they  would  have 
exposed  themselves  to  danger.  The  natives  were  not  to  be 
played  with  in  those  days. 

On  the  day  we  touched  at  the  island  on  our  first  arrival, 
a  number  had  assembled  at  Pangopango,  and  they  behaved 
to  us  in  a  very  rude  and  insolent  manner.  And  from  that 
time  forward  I  had  a  firm  conviction  that  our  greatest 
danger  in  commencing  a  mission  on  Tutuila  would  be 
from  these  men  ;  and  so  emphatically  it  proved.  We  had 
no  human  means  of  protection  or  defence.  Our  house  was 
open,  and  we  and  all  we  had  were  entirely  at  their  mercy. 
Night  after  night  we  used  to  lie  down,  feeling  that  there 
was  nothing  restraining  tliem  from  putting  us  all  out  of 
the  way  but  the  dread  of  the  natives  and  the  hand  of 
God.  Amid  all  our  perils,  however,  we  were  safe ;  an 
unseen  eye  was  upon  us,  and  an  unseen  hand  was  our 
defence.  The  designs  and  attempts  of  our  enemies  against 
us  were  baffled,  and  they  were  vu-tually  taken  in  their  own 
snare. 

We  were  imorant  of  it  at  the  time,  but  we  found  out 
afterwards  tliat  our  fears  had  been  but  too  well  founded. 
A  plot  was  formed,  and  well-nigh  carried  into  execution, 
to  cut  us  all  off  by  poison  soon  after  our  settlement  on  the 


36  A  REMARKABLE  DELIVERANCE. 

island.  The  opportunity  was  to  be  embraced  when  the 
tea-kettle  was  on  the  fire.  Cooking,  boiling  of  water,  &c., 
are  done  in  open  sheds  on  the  islands.  The  time  fixed 
upon  for  carrying  the  plan  into  effect  was  service  after- 
noon. The  lad  who  attended  to  the  boiling  of  the  water 
was  accustomed  to  fill  the  kettle  and  put  it  upon  the  fire 
before  going  to  the  service.  Hence  there  was  afforded 
just  the  op]3ortunity  wliich  our  enemies  sought.  We  had 
all  gone  to  the  service,  and  there  was  no  human  eye  to 
watch  their  movements.  The  appointed  afternoon  hap- 
pened to  be  windy,  and  while  the  man  who  had  under- 
taken to  carry  the  plot  into  effect  was  in  the  act  of  doing 
the  deed,  another,  who  had  been  smitten  with  remorse, 
struck  his  arm  and  scattered  the  poison;  they  had  no 
means  of  obtaining  more,  and  so  the  attempt  failed.  The 
man  who  was  instrumental  in  saving  our  lives  remained 
on  the  island  several  years,  acting  as  pilot  to  vessels  enter- 
ing the  harbour  of  Pangopango,  and  in  1841  he  left  in 
our  missionary  brig,  "  Camden."  It  was  not  from  himself 
that  we  learned  our  obligations  to  him,  but  from  another 
foreigner  who  was  on  the  island  at  the  time,  and  who  got 
to  know  all  the  particulars  of  the  plot,  though  he  liimself  was 
not  in  it.  Looldng  at  the  thing  apart  from  man,  we  mark 
with  devout  gratitude  the  hand  of  God  in  the  whole  affair. 
He  had  work  for  us  to  do,  and  He  kept  us  in  safety  while 
destruction  hovered  over  us  ;  and  by  means  of  the  attempt 
to  cut  us  off.  He  wrought  for  us  a  great  and  most  unex- 
pected deliverance.  It  led  to  the  breaking  up  and  scatter- 
ing of  the  party.  They  no  doubt  felt  that  they  had  laid 
themselves  open  to  be  dealt  mth  as  murderers.  A  man- 
of-war  might  drop  into  the  harbour  any  day,  and  they 
could  no  longer  trust  one  another. 

One  sad  occurrence,  whicli  must  have  happened  very 
soon  after  the  attempt  upon  our  lives,  increased  their 
feeling  of  insecurity,  and  no  doubt  increased  their  desire 


MURDER  OF  A   WHITE  MAN.  2,1 

to  get  away.  About  two  months  after  our  settle- 
ment on  the  isLancl,  one  of  them  was  murdered  by  the 
natives.  He  was  an  audaciously  wicked  fellow.  He  was 
one  of  a  party  who  were  assembled  at  Pangopango  on  the 
day  we  first  landed,  and  on  that  occasion  he  made  himself 
conspicuous  by  appearing  nearly  naked,  flourishing  a  war- 
club  in  a  defiant  manner,  and  addressing  us  very  rudely  and 
indecently.  He  had  got  himself  tatoocd  after  the  fashion 
of  the  natives,  and  seemed  to  all  intents  and  purposes  a 
thorough  savage;  but  the  triumphing  of  the  wicked  is 
short.  While  he  was  glorying  in  his  shame,  destruction 
was  impending  over  him.  He  quarrelled  with  the  people 
with  whom  he  lived,  and  threatened  to  leave  them. 
Human  life  was  not  of  much  account  on  Tutuila  in  those 
days,  especially  when  a  little  property  was  in  the  way ; 
so,  before  he  was  able  to  carry  out  his  threat,  a  party 
belonging  to  the  family  in  which  he  lived  waylaid  him 
at  a  convenient  spot  for  the  perpetration  of  a  deed  of 
darkness,  which  they  knew  he  had  to  pass,  and  put  an  end 
to  his  wretched  existence.  The  news  soon  spread  ;  and  his 
companions  gathered  together  at  Fangasa,  where  he  had 
lived,  and  brought  his  body  to  Pangopango  for  burial. 

Very  vividly  do  I  remember  that  sad  morning  when  we 
were  startled  by  the  arrival  of  the  party  bearing  the  body 
of  the  murdered  man. 

Of  course  the  murder  of  a  white  man  by  the  people  in 
whose  power  we  were  did  not  increase  our  own  feeling  of 
security,  but  other  feelings,  I  think,  predominated.  The 
demon-like  character  of  the  foreigners,  the  darkness  that 
might  be  felt  among  the  natives,  and  a  murdered  man  of 
such  a  character  before  us,  who  had  been  smitten  down 
without  a  moment's  warning,  produced  feelings  which 
language  cannot  express. 

I  was  not  yet  able  to  address  the  natives  in  their  own 
language,  so  all  I  could  do  was  to  conduct  a  little  service 

458850 


38  DISPERSION  OF  THE  WHITES. 

iu  English,  and  address  words  of  sadness  and  -warning  to 
the  foreigners.  This  occurrence  read  them  a  lesson  which 
doubtless  they  were  not  slow  to  understand.  It  showed 
them  unmistakably  that  they  were  losing  their  hold  upon 
the  natives ;  and  this,  with  the  consciousness  that  they  had 
laid  themselves  open  to  be  treated  as  criminals,  and  that 
they  could  not  trust  one  another,  seemed  to  shut  them  up 
to  one  course,  viz.,  to  leave  tlie  island  as  quickly  as  pos- 
sible. Thus,  in  the  course  of  Divine  Providence,  was  the 
greatest  obstacle  with  which  we  had  to  contend  at  the 
outset  of  our  course  removed,  and  we  were  left  to  pursue 
our  labours  without  molestation.  All  was  overruled  for 
the  furtherance  of  the  gospel.  The  wrath  of  man  was 
made  to  praise  God,  and  the  remainder  of  wrath  was 
restrained.  The  natives  saw  more  and  more  clearly  the 
difference  between  us  and  the  men  who  had  lived  amoni^ 
them  only  for  their  own  selfish  and  wicked  ends  ;  and,  as 
a  natural  consequence,  they  soon  reposed  in  us  entire  con- 
fidence, and  we  acquired  an  influence  over  them  which  we 
sought  to  use  only  for  their  good,  and  for  the  advancement 
of  the  interests  of  the  cause,  to  promote  which  we  had 
taken  up  our  abode  among  them. 


(  39) 


CHAPTEE  VI. 

FDETHER  REMARKS  ON  THE  STATE  OF  THE  NATIVES — FIRST  DIRECT  MISSION- 
ART  EFFORTS — FOREIGN  VISITORS — CAPTAIN  MORGAN. 

TuTUiLA,  as  we  have  seen,  was  virtually  a  heathen  land 
at  the  time  of  our  settlement  upon  it.  The  great  body  of 
the  people  were  avowedly  heathen,  and  the  bulk  of  those 
who  professed  to  have  abandoned  heathenism  differed  from 
their  countrymen  in  little  else  than  in  name.  There 
was  indeed  one  very  important  difference — ^they  attended 
religious  services  and  schools  with  more  or  less  regularity  ; 
but  in  a  moral  point  of  view  the  difference  was  slight. 

The  Samoans  had  by  no  means  sunk  so  low  as  the 
generality  of  the  South  Sea  Islanders.  CannibaKsm,  so 
far  as  we  have  been  able  to  make  out,  never  was  practised 
in  Samoa  to  any  considerable  extent.*  Nor  were  the 
Samoans  characterised  by  anything  like  the  bloodthirsty 
cruelty  of  the  Fijian,  nor  the  implacable  revenge  of  the 
New  Zealander,  nor  the  deep  moral  pollution  of  the 
Tahitian  and  Hervey  Islanders  and  the  Hawaiian.  They 
were  savages  of  the  best  type.  They  were  far,  however, 
from  being  the  happy  innocent  children  of  nature  whom 
some  voyagers  and  travellers  would  have  us  believe  they 
have  found  on  some  of  the  islands  of  the  Pacific.     Among 

*  It  was  reported  that  the  people  of  Manua  ate  a  white  man  after  the 
introduction  of  Christianity  to  the  larger  islands,  who  had  rendered  him- 
self specially  hateful  by  taking  part  iu  their  wars. 


40  HEATHENISM  IN  SAMOA. 

these  islands  the  writer  has  been  dwelling  and  voyaging 
for  a  period  approaching  forty  years,  and,  with  every  dis- 
position to  judge  favourably  of  the  natives,  he  has  never 
had  the  good  fortune  to  fall  in  with  any  of  these  happy 
children  of  nature.  So  far  as  he  knows,  Samoa  was 
about  the  most  likely  place  to  find  them;  but  we  have 
only  to  look  beneath  the  surface  to  be  satisfied  that  even 
in  Samoa  the  vaunted  innocence  and  happiness  are  all  a 
delusion, — that  they  have  no  existence  except  in  the  fancy 
of  superficial  observers,  or  of  men  whose  standard  of  judg- 
ment is  not  according  to  truth  and  righteousness. 

Could  these  mistaken  men  have  spent  a  few  weeks  with 
us  during  the  early  months  of  our  missionary  life,  they 
would  have  formed  a  more  correct  and  sober  judgment. 
The  heathen  dances  that  used  to  be  carried  on  about  thirty 
or  forty  yards  from  our  house,  beginning  a  little  after  sun- 
set, and  being  carried  on  sometimes  till  broad  daylight,  and 
accompanied  with  the  most  hideous  noises  and  the  most 
shameful  practices,  would  have  dispelled  the  delusion.  It 
is  difficult  to  conceive  of  anything  more  demon-like  than 
were  these  dances,  as  they  were  practised  in  the  days  of 
heathenism.  Those  who  practised  them  could  not  be 
otherwise  than  deeply  polluted.  There  is  much  in  the 
■  moral  condition  of  every  heathen  people  over  which  a  veil 
must  be  drawn,  and  to  this  rule  the  Samoans  are  no  ex- 
ception. 

Polygamy  existed  in  Samoa,  but  not  to  a  very  great 
extent.  Domestic  and  other  feuds  often  disturbed  the 
peace  of  the  community,  and  wars,  on  a  greater  or  smaller 
scale,  were  of  frequent  occurrence,  and  sometimes  they 
were  attended  with  deeds  of  revolting  cruelty.  But  it 
would  not  answer  any  end  of  importance  to  go  on  particu- 
larising the  evils  that  were  found  among  the  Samoans. 
Enough  has  been  said  to  show  that  they  needed  the  gospel 
— that  it  was  no  needless  errand  on  which  we  had  come. 


FIRST  DIRECT  MISSIONARY  EFFORTS.  41 

and  no  superfluous  work  in  which  we  purposed  to  engage. 
Our  foreign  neighbours,  who,  of  course,  knew  the  natives 
well,  entertained  very  different  views  of  them  and  their 
character  to  those  on  which  we  have  just  been  animad- 
verting. They  were  fond  of  taunting  us  with  what  they 
regarded,  or  pretended  to  regard,  as  our  hopeless  task.  "  Do 
you  think  you  will  ever  turn  these  people  ? "  they  would 
ask,  with  something  like  an  air  of  scorn  or  pity  at  our  sim- 
plicity. I'oor  fellows  !  they  were  right  so  far.  Wc  could 
never  have  turned  the  people,  but  they  knew  not  the  secret 
of  our  strength  and  confidence.  From  their  point  of  view 
our  task  was  indeed  hopeless,  but,  with  the  eternal  God  for 
our  refuge,  we  were  not  to  be  discouraged  by  any  obstacles 
which  men  or  devils  could  throw  in  our  way. 

We  lost  no  time  in  commencing  an  aggressive  war 
against  the  powers  of  darkness  and  the  manifold  evils  by 
which  we  were  surrounded.  Eeligious  services,  as  ah'eady 
noticed,  were  begun  at  once,  and  on  the  19  th  of  July, 
about  a  week  after  our  arrival,  we  opened  school.  Of 
course,  we  ourselves  could  do  but  little  in  the  way  of 
teaching  at  that  early  day,  but  we  had  the  assistance  of 
Mr  Wilson  while  he  was  with  us,  and  of  Raid,  a  native 
of  Atiu,  who  had  been  a  teacher  on  Upolu  for  some  years  ; 
and  in  attempting  to  teach  others  we  were  in  the  way  of 
learning  something  ourselves.  All  in  our  neighbourhood 
who  had  abandoned  heathenism,  about  forty,  adults  and 
children  included,  attended  with  more  or  less  regularity ; 
some,  especially  young  men,  such  as  Pomare,  learned  to 
read  with  amazing  rapidity.  School  was  held  once  a  day, 
five  days  in  the  week,  for  about  an  hour  and  a  half,  but,  at 
intervals  of  leisure  throughout  the  day,  the  book  was  the 
constant  companion  of  the  more  eager  and  zealous ;  hence 
their  rapid  progress.  In  about  three  months  some  had 
learned  to  read  tolerably,  and  those  who  were  in  advance 
of  their  fellows  were  soon  set  to  work  to  assist  in  teaching 


42  FOREIGN  VISITORS. 

them.  The  services,  which  were  conducted  by  Mr  Wilson 
during  his  stay,  and  afterwards  by  Eaki,  increased  the 
interest  felt  in  the  new  religion,  and  tended  to  awaken  a 
spirit  of  inquiry  among  its  adherents. 

Very  soon  after  the  commencement  of  our  labours  we 
set  about  house-building,  and  with  that  and  the  study  of 
the  language,  the  dispensing  of  medicine,  receiving  parties 
who  came  from  all  quarters  to  visit  us  and  exchange  pre- 
sents and  friendly  greetings,  we  had  our  hands  full.  We 
have  referred  to  the  opposition  we  met  with  from  foreigners 
living  on  the  island  at  the  time  of  our  arrival,  and  the 
rehef  we  felt  when  that  opposition  was  at  an  end.  It  is 
painful  to  have  to  state  that  we  were  soon  called  to  en- 
counter opposition,  still  more  formidable,  from  foreign 
visitors — men  from  our  own  native  land,  and  other  coun- 
tries professedly  Christian.  The  struggle  with  those  we 
found  on  the  island  was  of  short  continuance,  and  the  in- 
fluence they  exerted  for  evil  was  comparatively  circum- 
scribed and  short-Kved.  It  was  otherwise,  however,  with 
the  opposition  that  came  upon  us  from  without.  Our  fine 
harbour,  and  the  facilities  which  the  island  afforded  for 
obtainmg  wood  and  water  and  fresh  provisions,  attracted  a 
large  number  of  whalers. 

A  little  over  two  months  from  the  time  of  our  settle- 
ment, an  American  whaler,  the  "JSTorth  Star,"  Captain 
Eichards,  and  an  Enghsh  whaler,  the  "  Montreal,"  Captain 
Stewart,  led  the  way.  It  was  a  great  mercy  that  these 
gentlemen  were  decided  exceptions  to  the  general  run  of 
masters  of  whalers  in  those  days.  They  did  everything  in 
their  power  to  strengthen  our  hands,  and  the  influence  they 
exerted  was  altogether  favourable.  After  them  we  had 
occasionally  one  or  two  of  similar  character,  but  the  great 
majority  were  a  disgrace  to  the  countries  to  wliich  they 
belonged.  These  countries  were  England  and  the  Austra- 
lian Colonies,  and  especially  the  United  States  of  America. 


FORMIDABLE  OPPOSITION.  43 

The  opposition  we  had  to  encounter  from  these  men  and 
their  lawless  crews  was  formidable  indeed.  There  they 
were — men  of  our  own  colour,  speaking  the  same  language 
with  ourselves,  and  some  of  them  our  own  countrymen, 
and  claiming  to  be  Christians,  while  giving  themselves  up 
to  the  most  shameful  immoralities,  and  telling  the  natives 
all  manner  of  lies,  so  far  as  they  could  manage  to  make 
themselves  understood.  How  stumbling  their  conduct 
must  have  been  to  our  poor  benighted  people  will  be 
readily  conceived.  So  long  as  our  influence  was  insufficient 
to  oppose  any  very  serious  check  to  their  doings,  they  did 
not  directly  molest  us,  but  we  were,  of  course,  greatly 
ashamed  on  account  of  their  conduct,  while  we  mourned 
over  the  moral  havoc  they  wrought,  and  their  influence  in 
drawing  the  people  away  from  schools  and  ser"\dces. 

But  they  did  not  have  it  all  their  own  way  for  a  great 
while ;  indeed  they  never  had  it  qidtc  that.  We  gradually 
gained  influence,  and  the  truth  of  God,  after  a  few  months, 
began  to  take  hold  of  some  hearts,  and  then  came  the  "  tug 
of  war."  The  great  difficulty  was  with  the  avowedly 
heathen  part  of  the  community,  and  for  many  months 
they  were  a  large  majority.  With  them  we  could  do 
nothing  directly,  so  among  them  the  parties  in  question 
met  witli  but  little  check;  and  when,  as  was  sometimes 
the  case,  we  had  as  many  as  six  large  whalers  at  anchor 
at  the  same  time,  having  crews  averaging  thirty,  and  all 
of  the  baser  sort,  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  state 
of  tilings  in  our  neighbourhood  in  those  dark  and  trying 
times. 

It  is  deeply  interesting  and  instructive  to  mark  how,  in 
the  arrangements  of  Providence,  one  thing  is  set  over 
against  another — how  the  dark  and  the  bright  alternate, 
or  appear  side  by  side,  so  as  to  prevent  undue  depression 
on  the  one  hand,  and  undue  elation  on  the  other.  After 
we  had  been  sorely  tried  and  hindered  in  our  work  by  a 


44  CAPTAIN  MORGAN'S  VISIT. 

succession  of  visitors  of  the  stamp  above  described,  we 
were  favoured  with  a  visit  every  way  fitted  to  counteract 
the  mischief  which  those  had  wrought.  On  the  6th  of 
January  1837,  a  man  of  whom  we  had  heard  much,  but 
whom  we  had  never  seen,  came  to  visit  us.  A  boat  landed 
near  our  house  on  the  afternoon  of  the  said  day,  and,  on 
going  to  meet  it,  how  were  we  surprised  and  dehghted 
when  a  gentleman  jumped  from  it,  and,  saluting  us  very 
warmly,  informed  us  that  his  name  was  Mokgan  !  What 
a  God-send  did  the  visit  of  this  good  man  seem  to  us 
at  that  particular  juncture  !  To  ourselves  it  was  cheering 
in  the  highest  degree,  and  its  influence  upon  the  natives 
must  have  been  of  the  liappiest  kind.  Better  than  a 
thousand  arguments  was  the  exhibition  of  this  living  epistle 
of  Christ  among  our  people  at  this  critical  period.  It  was 
at  once  a  confirmation  of  all  we  had  been  telling  the  natives 
about  the  difference  between  a  religion  which  is  nothing 
more  than  a  name,  and  that  which  is  what  the  name  im- 
ports. At  the  time  referred  to.  Captain  Morgan  was  in  com- 
mand of  the  "  Duke  of  York,"  a  vessel  engaged  in  whahng. 
He  had  been  cruising  off  Tutuila  without  any  idea  of 
coming  into  the  harbour,  and,  so  far  as  I  remember,  he 
was  not  aware  tliat  there  were  missionaries  on  the  island. 
One  or  more  of  the  white  men  who  remained  on  the  island 
went  off  to  his  ship  and  told  him  that  there  were  mis- 
sionaries on  shore ;  that  their  lives  were  in  danger,  and 
that  they  were  just  waiting  an  opportunity  to  leave  the 
island.  The  wish  was  father  to  the  report,  but  this,  of 
course.  Captain  Morgan  did  not  know,  and  he  was  not  the 
man  to  hear  such  a  tale  and  not  test  its  truth ;  so  he  came 
on  shore  in  a  boat  to  ascertain  how  the  case  really  stood, 
and  to  offer  us  a  passage  in  his  ship,  if  it  were  as  it  had 
been  represented.  Of  course  he  was  rejoiced  to  find  that 
he  had  been  misinformed,  and  that  the  idea  of  leaving  the 
island  was   entirely  new  to   us.     "When  he  found  how 


CHEERING  INTERCOURSE.  45 

tilings  were,  lie  Ijroiiglit  his  ship  into  the  harbour,  and 
remained  with  us  three  weeks.  How  our  hearts  were 
cheered  and  our  hands  strengthened  by  Iiis  visit  words 
can  hardly  express.  Many  were  the  hallowed  seasons  of 
spiritual  communion  which  we  enjoyed  both  on  shore  and 
on  board  ship  during  those  memorable  weeks.  The  chief 
officer  and  a  number  of  the  ship's  company  were  like- 
minded  with  the  worthy  captain,  and  this,  of  course,  added 
greatly  to  the  interest  which  his  visit  excited,  and  to  the 
influence  for  good  which  it  exerted.  Very  pleasant  indeed 
was  the  intercourse  we  enjoyed  with  our  guest  from  day 
to  day,  and  refreshing  is  the  recollection  of  it  even  now. 
I  love  to  cherish  the  memory  of  the  dear  man  of  God ; 
and  the  anticipation  of  reunion  within  the  veil  is  very 
precious. 

It  was  during  Captain  Morgan's  stay  with  us  on  this 
occasion  that  the  idea  of  commanding  a  mission  ship 
occurred  to  his  mind.  We  were  not  well  off  for  supplies 
at  the  time,  and  all  our  fellow-labourers  were  suffering 
more  or  less  from  the  same  cause,  and  it  was  a  very  diffi- 
cult thing  to  get  our  wants  supplied  with  anything  like 
regularity  in  those  days ;  so  it  struck  Captain  Morgan  that 
we  ought  to  have  a  vessel  of  our  own,  and  in  case  we 
should  get  a  vessel,  he  felt  that  nothing  would  please  him 
so  much  as  to  take  the  command  of  it.  I  knew  that  Mr 
Williams,  who  was  in  England  at  the  time,  had  determined 
to  make  an  effi^rt  to  get  a  vessel  to  meet  the  idea  which 
occurred  to  Captain  Morgan,  and,  in  addition,  to  carry 
teachers  and  missionaries  to  new  fields.  This  I  mentioned, 
and  suggested  to  the  captain  to  make  an  offer  of  his  ser- 
vices to  the  Directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society. 
The  captain  acted  upon  the  suggestion.  He  wrote  an 
application  during  his  stay  with  us,  which  I  laid  before 
the  next  meeting  of  the  members  of  our  mission,  which 
was  held  in  the  following  April.     A  minute  was  adopted, 


46  ARRIVAL  OF  MR  AND  MRS  BUZACOTT. 

strongly  urging  the  Directors  to  procure  a  vessel  with  all 
practicable  speed,  and  concluding  as  follows : — "  For  these 
reasons  we  strongly  urge  the  Directors  to  accept  the  offer 
of  the  pious  Captain  Morgan  to  command  a  vessel  of  this 
description." 

The  minute  with  the  application  was  duly  forwarded  to 
the  Directors,  and  all  who  are  acquainted  with  the  early 
records  of  our  mission  know  what  followed.  On  the  23d 
of  January  Captain  Morgan  left  us.  We  felt  his  departure 
much,  but  how  were  we  surprised  and  delighted  when 
four  days  after  he  returned,  bringing  our  esteemed  fellow- 
labourers  Mr  and  Mrs  Buzacott,  who  had  been  waiting 
for  some  time  on  Upolu  for  an  opportunity  of  getting  to 
Tutuila  to  remain  a  few  weeks  with  us. 

After  performing  this  most  acceptable  service,  our  friend 
left  to  pursue  the  occupation  to  which  he  was  then  called. 
In  all  his  former  voyages  he  had  been  a  most  successful 
whaler,  but  during  the  present  voyage  down  to  the  time  of 
his  visit  to  us,  he  had  what  sailors  call  a  "  clean  ship,"  and 
a  few  months  later  the  "  Duke  of  York  "  was  wrecked  off 
the  coast  of  Australia — the  first  time  a  disaster  of  the  kind 
had  befallen  Captain  Morgan.  The  loss  of  his  ship  led  to 
his  return  to  England,  where  he  arrived  just  in  time  to  take 
command  of  the  mission  brig  "  Camden."  If  he  had  been 
twenty-four  hours  later  another  captain  would  have  been 
engaged.  But  He  who  had  designed  him  for  the  post  for 
which  He  had  so  admirably  fitted  him,  took  care  that  he 
should  be  forthcoming  at  the  right  time.  He  was  at  once 
engaged,  and  for  fifteen  years  he  commanded  our  mission 
ship,  beloved  and  respected  by  all,  missionaries  and  natives. 
In  1856  failing  health  compelled  him  to  leave  his  loved 
work.  He  remained  a  few  years  in  England,  and  then 
sought  a  milder  climate  in  Australia ;  and  after  a  short 
residence  in  Melbourne  he  was  called  to  the  presence  of 
that  Saviour  whom  he  so  much  loved,  and  had  so  faith- 


CHARACTER  OF  CAPTAIN  MORGAN.  47 

fully  served.  Farewell,  thou  man  of  God  !  a  short  fare- 
weU! 

I  cannot  give  particulars  of  his  last  illness,  nor  of  the 
manner  of  his  departure,  but  of  one  thing  I  feel  perfectly- 
assured,  viz.,  that  he  died  in  the  Lord,  and  that  is  enough. 
I  have  known  many  eminent  Christians  during  my  not 
short  life — but  I  have  never  met  a  more  lovable,  a  more 
Christ-like  man  than  Captain  Morgan. 

I  ought  to  add  that  Captain  Morgan  was  brought  to 
religious  decision  in  the  mission  field.  During  a  visit  to 
the  island  of  Huahine  to  obtain  supplies  for  his  ship,  he 
was,  through  the  instrumentality  of  Mr  Barff,  led  to  a 
saving  acquaintance  with  Christ.  This  took  place  some 
considerable  time  before  the  commencement  of  our  mission. 
At  that  time  he  had  an  established  reputation  for  eminent 
piety.  During  our  stay  at  Huahine,  on  our  way  to  Samoa, 
we  heard  of  the  good  man,  and  so  were  prepared  to  wel- 
come liim  at  Tutuila  as  a  brother  in  Christ. 


(48) 


CHAPTEE  VII. 

FIRST  ATTEMPTS  AT  PREACHING  IN  THE  NATIVE  LANGUAGE — REMARKS — A 
VISIT  TO  THE  HEATHEN  VILLAGES — INCIDENTS — A  GLEAM  OF  LIGHT 
AMID  THE  DARKNESS  OF  HEATHENISM — VISIT  OF  A  DEPUTATION  FROM 
THE  TAHITIAN  MISSION — ARRIVAL  OF  MR  AND  MRS  M 'DONALD  AND 
TWO  TEACHERS  FROM  RAROTONGA. 

The  beginning  of  1837  was  an  important  era  in  our  mis- 
sionary life.  On  the  1st  of  January  of  that  year  I  made 
my  first  attempt  at  preaching  in  the  native  language. 
That  and  many  subsequent  attempts  were  no  doubt  very 
imperfect,  but  I  have  never  regretted  having  made  them. 
In  the  case  of  first  missionaries,  at  least,  I  believe  it  is 
advisable  to  begin  preaching  as  soon  as  ever  they  can  make 
themselves  generally  understood.  Some  have  a  great  idea 
of  waiting  till  they  may  be  able,  as  they  think,  to  speak 
without  making  mistakes.  This,  I  have  no  doubt,  is  an 
unwise  course.  ]\Iistakes  will  be  made  anyhow,  unless 
the  delay  be  carried  beyond  all  reasonable  bounds.  A 
greater  degree  of  correctness  will  of  course  be  attained  by 
waiting,  if  there  be  proportionate  appUcation,  but  that  will 
be  purchased  at  the  cost  of  making  much  slower  progress, 
especially  in  acquiring  the  power  of  free  speech,  which, 
among  a  pagan  or  semi-pagan  people,  is  a  not  less  valuable 
acquisition  than  it  is  in  civilised  lands. 

My  first  address  was  from  Mark  xvi.  15,  16.  A  poor, 
imperfect  performance  no  doubt  it  was,  yet  to  myself  and 
others  it  was  an  event  of  importance.     Having  made  a 


BRIGHTENING  PROSPECTS.  49 

beginning,  I  went  steadily  forward,  every  successive  effort 
becoming  more  easy;  and  very  soon  tokens  for  good  were 
apparent,  and  so  we  were  cheered  and  encouraged  by  the 
hope  that  God  was  working  -with  us.  Growing  numbers 
attended  the  services ;  greater  attention  and  deeper  interest 
were  manifested ;  the  people  became  more  kind  and  respect- 
ful; individuals  left  off'  attending  the  night  dances,  and, 
instead  of  betaking  themselves  to  these  scenes  of  revelling 
and  wickedness,  gathered  around  us,  joining  in  our  evening 
w^orship,  and  listening  to  the  wonderful  things  we  had  to 
tell.  How  welcome  were  these  streaks  of  opening  day, 
these  signs  that  the  Sun  of  Eighteousness  was  about  to 
arise  upon  the  dark  minds  around  us  with  heaKng  in  His 
w^ngs,  w^ill  be  readily  conceived.  They  were  as  cold 
water  to  a  thirsty  soul.  They  powerfully  reacted  upon 
ourselves,  confirming  our  faitli,  strengthening  our  hopes, 
enlarging  our  desires,  and  so  contributing  to  the  greater 
efficiency  of  our  labours. 

The  visit  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Buzacott  was  of  great  service 
to  ourselves  and  the  mission ;  it  was  specially  opportune 
on  many  accounts.  Their  arrival  has  been  mentioned  out 
of  its  proper  place,  as  it  occurred  in  connection  with  the 
visit  of  Captam  Morgan.  It  was  on  the  27th  of  January 
that  we  were  privileged  to  welcome  them  to  Tutuila,  and 
they  remained  with  us  about  seven  weeks. 

Up  to  the  time  of  their  arrival  we  had  been  favoured 
with  uninterrupted  health;  but  soon  after  we  were  all 
taken  ill — some  of  us  rather  seriously  so.  We  were  all, 
Mrs  Murray,  Mrs  Barnden  and  myself,  laid  down  at  the 
same  time  ;  and,  but  for  the  presence  and  kind  nursing  of 
our  friends,  we  must  have  been  in  very  awkward  circum- 
stances. With  their  unwearied  attention,  however,  and 
the  blessing  of  God  on  their  efforts  and  those  of  the  doctor 
of  a  ship  which  was  in  the  harbour  at  the  time,  we  soon 
rallied,  and  were  able  to  resume  our  accustomed  duties. 

D 


50  VISIT  TO  THE  HEATHEN. 

Mr  Buzacott  and  tlie  people  who  were  with  him  from 
Earotonga  lent  us  important  aid  in  house-building  and 
kindred  matters,  while  Mrs  Buzacott  was  very  helpful  to 
Mrs  Murray  in  her  department. 

Before  our  illness  Mr  Buzacott  and  I  made  a  tour  of 
that  part  of  the  island  which  forms  the  Pangopango  dis- 
trict. Hitherto  I  had  not  ventured  far  from  home.  Be- 
yond the  bay  where  we  were  located  the  great  bulk  of 
the  people  were  heathen,  and  till  we  were  able  to  under- 
stand and  be  understood  it  was  very  a%vkward  to  go  among 
them,  and  not  likely  to  be  of  much  use.  Hence  the  visit 
made  in  company  with  Mr  Buzacott  was  the  first  to  the 
distant  villages.  We  were  everywhere  treated  witli  civility. 
Where  we  found  a  j^arty  professedly  Christian,  we  were 
received  as  friends  and  kindly  entertained.  In  villages 
where  all  were  heathen,  we  met  with  nothing  beyond 
civility.  In  one  village  where  we  spent  the  night,  we 
were  obliged  to  have  our  evening  worship  out  of  doors. 
The  public  building  in  the  village,  designed  for  the  accom- 
modation of  strangers,  was  at  our  service  as  a  place  to 
lodge  in,  but  we  must  not  desecrate  it  by  conducting  in 
it  a  religious  service.  That  the  natives  feared,  or  pretended 
to  fear,  would  be  displeasing  to  their  gods ;  and  private 
families,  sharing  in  this  fear,  or,  it  may  be,  instructed  by  the 
authorities,  refused  the  use  of  their  houses  also.  Hence  we 
gathered  together  under  a  tree,  and  there  lifted  up  our 
song  of  praise,  and  poured  out  our  hearts  in  prayer  to  Him 
who  had  doubtless  never  been  before  acknowledged  on  that 
dark  spot. 

At  another  village  where  we  found  all  heathen,  and 
avowedly  determined  to  continue  so,  a  very  remarkable 
circumstance  came  to  our  knowledge.  I  think  it  took 
])lace  during  a  subsequent  visit,  but  it  may  as  well  be 
mentioned  here.  The  village  atwhich  it  occurred,  Fangaihia, 
was  obstinately  heathen  for  years  after  our  settlement  on 


A  STRIKING  INCIDENT.  51 

the  island ;  and  being  politically  important,  and  the  resi- 
dence of  one  of  the  principal  chiefs,  its  influence  was  great 
in  preventing  the  heathen  from  embracing  Christianity. 
On  the  occasion  referred  to,  a  man  of  onr  party,  while 
addressing  the  chiefs  and  people,  and  urging  them  to 
abandon  heathenism  and  receive  the  new  religion,  spoke 
to  them  to  the  following  effect :— If  your  father  Leiato 
had  been  alive  he  would  have  embraced  Christianity  long 
ago ;  for  its  being  brought  to  our  land  is  the  fulfilment  of 
his  prophecy ;  "  Blessed  are  the  generations  to  come,  and 
children  in  the  womb ;  they  shall  see  the  peaceful  kingdom." 
Their  father  to  whom  the  speaker  referred  was  the  chief 
of  the  village,  who  had  died  some  considerable  time  before 
the  introduction  of  the  gospel  to  the  Samoan  grou]3.  Chiefs 
are  often  spoken  of  as  the  fathers  of  the  people.  Leiato 
had  the  reputation  of  being  a  man  of  extraordinary  sagacity, 
and  something  of  a  prophet. 

Another  of  his  utterances,  which  had  a  political  refer- 
ence, had  been  remarkably  fulfilled,  and  was  not  forgotten  ; 
but,  strange  to  say,  the  people  did  not  show  the  same  readi- 
ness to  give  heed  to  the  fulfilment  of  the  above  remarkable 
words.  His  natural  sagacity  may  sufficiently  account  for 
his  political  prediction,  but  surely  the  other  was  a  gleam 
of  light  from  a  Divine  source  designed  to  prepare  the  way 
of  the  Lord.  It  was  before  anything  was  known  of  the 
near  advent  of  "the  peaceful  kingdom"  that  the  words 
were  uttered,  and  when  the  heralcls  of  that  kingdom 
appeared,  intelligent  natives  at  once  made  the  application. 
I  expect  many  similar  things  might  be  gleaned  by  first 
missionaries  in  different  fields,  showing  that  God  does  gO 
out  before  His  people,  and  that  wherever  His  servants  go, 
following  the  leadings  of  His  providence,  they  will  find 
their  way  in  some  measure  prepared.  How  remarkable 
is  the  case  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  the  natioUi, 
moved  by  some  mysterious  influence,  had  actually  abaiir 


52  RECEPTION  BY  THE  HEATHEN. 

doned  heathenism,  and  were  found  on  the  arrival  of  mis- 
sionaries without  a  religion  at  all,  and  so  in  a  position  to 
embrace  at  once  that  which  they  brought ! 

In  my  own  experience,  I  have  generally,  if  not  invariably, 
found  that  where  missionaries  or  teachers  have  obtained  a 
footing,  there  have  been  individuals,  two,  three,  or  more, 
who  have  seemed  prepared  to  receive  their  message,  and 
these  have  become  their  first  decided  converts,  and  stuck 
to  them  through  every  emergency ;  and  I  have  noticed  the 
same  thing  in  some  other  fields  of  which  I  have  read. 

There  were  no  visible  results  from  our  visit.  The  tena- 
city with  which  the  heathen  clung  to  their  gods  and 
objects  of  religious  veneration  was  surprising.  All  we 
and  their  own  countrymen  who  accompanied  us  could  say 
seemed  to  produce  no  impression.  They  had  heard  of 
our  coming  beforehand,  and,  being  forewarned,  they  took 
care  to  be  forearmed.  A  consultation  was  held  at  each 
place  before  we  reached  it,  a  reply  to  what  we  might  say 
agreed  upon,  and  a  person  appointed  to  speak  for  aU. 
Generally  the  address  to  us  was  couched  in  as  soft  and 
complimentary  language  as  possible,  but  it  was  none  the 
less  decided  on  that  account;  though,  till  we  became 
acquamted  with  Samoan  politeness,  we  were  apt  to  be 
misled  by  the  first  part  of  the  speech,  and  fancy  that 
we  were  about  to  gain  our  point.  Sometimes  we  had 
almost  a  blunt  refusal,  but  generally  it  was  softened,  and 
a  hope  held  out  that  ere  a  great  while  all  would  join  us. 
"  Don't  be  in  a  hurry,"  they  would  say ;  "  act  leisurely ; 
we  shall  all  end  in  that.  Our  children  are  lotu  (the  term 
by  which  Christianity  is  designated  among  the  Samoans 
and  many  other  islanders),  and  this  one  and  the  other  are 
lotu,  mentioning  some  well-known  parties,  and  we  shall 
all  follow  some  day."  It  was  vain  to  remind  them  that 
the  some  day  might  never  come — that  death  and  judgment 
are  not  leisurely  in  their  approach,  &c.     They  stuck  to 


OBSTINACY  OF  THE  HEATHEN.  53 

their  text,  and  became  more  decided  in  their  denial  the 
more  we  urged  our  point : — "  We  won't  lotii"  generally 
came  out  bald  and  blunt  when  they  were  much  pressed, 
with  an  intimation  that  that  was  all  they  had  to  say,  and 
a  call  to  the  young  men  or  women  present  to  go  and  look 
out  for  a  bit  of  food  for  our  party  ;  and  so  they  put  away 
from  tliem  God's  message  of  mercy.  What  they  said 
about  the  young  people  joining  us  was  true.  They  were 
less  difficult  to  deal  with  than  those  advanced  in  years. 
Age  in  Samoa,  as  elsewhere,  is  inclined  to  be  conservative, 
and  a  number  of  the  old  people  clung  to  paganism,  and 
died  in  darkness  though  surrounded  with  light.  May  not 
triflers  and  procrastmators  in  more  favoured  lands  see  in 
the  character  of  these  pagans  the  counterpart  of  their 
own ;  and  ought  they  not  to  reflect  how  much  greater  is 
the  responsibility  which  they  incur  by  neglecting  the  great 
salvation  than  that  of  the  heathen,  who  in  their  blindness 
put  away  from  them  the  words  of  eternal  life  ? 

When  we  were  sufficiently  recovered  from  our  attack 
of  illness,  Mr  Barnden  left  us  to  remain  permanently  at 
his  own  station,  Leone.  Mr  Buzacott  accompanied  him, 
and  remained  vath  him  some  time,  during  which  they 
made  a  tour  of  the  Leone  district.  In  that  they  found  a 
larger  number  of  persons  who  had  embraced  Christianity 
than  in  the  other  division  of  the  island.  In  other  respects 
tlie  two  districts  did  not  materially  differ. 

After  Mr  Buzacott's  return  to  Pangopango  we  went 
steadily  on  our  way,  filling  up  our  time  with  such  engage- 
ments as  the  state  of  the  mission  seemed  to  require,  till 
the  occurrence  of  an  event,  which  had  long  been  expected, 
occasioned  an  interruption  which  was  far  from  unwelcome. 
The  event  referred  to  was  not  a  great  thing  in  itself.  It 
was  only  the  arrival  of  a  very  small  vessel  sent  to  visit  us 
by  the  brethren  of  the  Tahitian  mission.  But,  circum- 
stanced as  we  were,  it  was  to  us  a  matter  of  great  moment. 


54  A   WELCOME   VISIT. 

Mr  and  Mrs  M'Donald  and  Mr  Piatt,  who  came  to  visit 
us  as  a  deputation  from  the  Tahitian  mission,  and  two 
Earotongan  teachers  and  their  wives,  were  passengers;  and 
Mr  Piatt  was  the  bearer  of  what  to  us  was  a  priceless 
treasure — twenty-one  chapters  of  the  Gospel  according  to 
Matthew  printed  in  the  Samoan  dialect.  Oh,  what  a  boon 
were  these  chapters  ! — imperfect  though  the  translation 
necessarily  was.  Hitherto  we  had  had  to  translate,  as  best 
we  could,  every  text  from  which  we  preached,  every  quota- 
tion we  made,  and  every  portion  of  Scripture  w^e  read, 
and  we  had  had  nothing  except  a  small  spelling-book  to 
put  into  the  hands  of  the  natives.  By  the  schooner  we 
received,  in  addition  to  the  Gospel,  a  few  hymns  printed 
in  the  Samoan  language,  a  catechism,  and  an  enlarged  and 
improved  spelling-book.  How  all  these  were  prized  by  us 
and  many  of  our  people,  and  of  what  service  they  were  to 
us,  words  cannot  express.  Great  were  our  obligations  to 
our  brethren  Piatt  and  Wilson,  by  whom  they  were  pre- 
pared, and  to  the  worthy  brother,  Mr  Barff,  by  whom  they 
were  printed.  Tliey  have  all  passed  away,  and  their  works 
have  been  superseded;  but  the  effects  of  their  labours 
remain,  and,  blended  with  those  of  their  successors,  are 
flowing  on  in  an  ever-widening  stream,  and  so  they  will 
continue  without  limit  and  without  end. 


(55) 


CHAPTER   Vlir. 

VISIT  TO  UPOLU — GENERAL  MEETING  OF  THE  MISSION — REPORTS  OF  STATIONS 
—THE  PREPARATION  AND  PRINTING  OF  BOOKS — APPLICATION  FOR  A 
MISSION  SHIP — STRIKING  CONTRAST — NARROW  ESCAPE. 

The  vessel  from  Tahiti  arrived  on  the  21st  of  March,  and 
on  the  23d  she  sailed  for  Upolii.  Mr  and  Mrs  M'Donald 
went  on  in  her  towards  their  appointed  sphere  of  labour, 
and  I  took  a  passage  in  her  to  Upolu,  to  attend  a  meeting 
of  the  brethren  of  the  mission  which  was  to  be  held  there. 
Mr  and  Mrs  Buzacott  remained  at  Tutuila,  intending  to 
follow  in  a  few  days  in  the  "Briganza,"  an  American 
whaler,  the  captain  of  which  had  agreed  to  take  them  to 
their  own  station  at  Earotonga. 

Shortly  after  getting  out  to  sea  we  were  overtaken  by 
stormy  weather,  which  continued  to  the  close  of  the  voyage. 
With  a  fair  wind  we  might  have  reached  our  destination 
in  eighteen  hours  ;  but,  Avith  the  winds  and  weather  we 
had,  we  were  four  days  on  our  way.  And  a  trying  voyage 
we  had,  and  not  free  from  danger.  Such  was  the  state  of 
the  weather,  that  some  of  the  captains  of  the  vessels  which 
we  left  at  anchor  comforted  Mrs  Murray,  who  remained 
behind,  by  telling  her  that  it  was  impossible  our  vessel 
could  have  reached  Upolu.  Reach  Upolu,  however,  we 
did ;  and  just  in  time  to  escape  a  gale  through  which,  I 
suppose,  our  little  craft  could  not  have  lived.  It  was  one 
of  those  storms,  with  which  we  have  since  become  familiar. 


56  MEETING  OF  THE  MISSION. 

which,  from  time  to  time,  work  such  havoc  among  our 
stations  in  these  seas. 

Our  vessel  was  in  imminent  clanger  of  being  driven 
from  her  anchorage,  and  wrecked  on  the  beach  at  Apia. 
However,  the  same  watchful  Providence  that  was  over  her 
at  sea  was  over  her  still,  and  she  rode  out  the  storm. 

A  few  days  after  we  reached  Upolu,  the  "  Briganza " 
arrived  witli  Mr  and  Mrs  Buzacott  and  Mr  Barnden.  Mr 
and  Mrs  Buzacott  merely  stepped  on  shore  to  say  farewell, 
and  to  get  some  things  whicli  they  had  left  behind  when 
they  went  to  Tutuila.  Mr  Barnden  had  come  to  attend 
the  meeting  of  tlie  mission. 

The  meeting  was  held  at  Apia  on  the  4th  of  April  1837. 
The  missionaries  and  teachers  furnished  reports  as  to  the 
state  of  things  in  their  respective  districts,  which  showed 
that  progress  was  being  made  in  the  different  departments 
of  our  work.  The  professedly  Christian  party  was  steadily 
increasing  in  numbers.  Schools  and  services  were  well 
attended,  and  many  were  desirous  of  making  a  public 
avowal  of  their  attachment  to  Christ.  At  two  places, 
Sapapalii  on  the  island  of  Savaii,  and  Manono,  churches 
liad  been  organised  ;  at  the  former  place,  where  Mr  Hardie 
was  the  missionary,  the  newly-formed  church  consisted  of 
eleven  members ;  at  the  latter,  where  ]\Ir  Heath  was  sta- 
tioned, the  number  was  twenty-four. 

A  variety  of  other  matters  were  discussed  and  arranged 
at  the  meeting,  such  as  the  location  of  the  two  teachers 
newly  anived,  one  of  whom,  Ngatihiri,  was  appointed  to 
Fangasa,  on  Tutuila,  and  the  otlier,  Marie,  to  a  station  on 
Savaii ;  the  appropriation  and  disposal  of  the  books  just 
received,  the  printing  of  others  which  were  in  manuscript, 
and  the  preparation  of  others,  the  most  important  of  which 
was  a  New  Testament  History.  The  works  in  manu- 
script' referred  to  were  an  Old  Testament  History  pre- 
pared by  Mr  Wilson,  and  the  "  History  of  Joseph,"  and  a 


APPLICATION  FOR  A  SHIP.  57 

tract  entitled,  "  Christ,  the  True  Ark,"  transhateJ  by  :Mr 
Biizacott. 

A  minute  was  also  adopted,  warmly  acknowledging  the 
valuable  services  rendered  by  Mr  and  Mrs  Buzacott  during 
their  nine  months'  stay  amongst  us ;  and  another,  asking 
Mr  Buzacott  to  favour  us  still  further  by  printing  for  us, 
at  his  press  at  Ptarotonga,  the  works  referred  to  above. 

But  the  most  noteworthy  part  of  the  business  which 
occupied  our  attention  at  this  meeting  was  that  which 
referred  to  the  procuring  of  a  ship  to  be  employed  in  sus- 
taining and  extending  our  work.  To  this  I  have  already 
alluded  in  connection  with  Captain  Morgan's  visit  to 
Tutuila,  but  its  bearing  on  the  subsequent  history  of  our 
mission  will  justify  a  further  reference  to  it  here.  The 
following  is  a  copy  of  the  minute  on  the  subject  that  was 
adopted  at  the  present  meeting : — 

"That  in  our  opinion  it  would  be  of  incalculable  ad- 
vantage were  our  Society  to  place  a  small  vessel,  under 
the  command  of  a  pious  captain,  for  the  joint  use  of  the 
various  Polynesian  missionary  stations,  and  for  the  pur- 
pose of  enabling  the  brethren  to  commence  missionary 
operations  on  other  islands  and  groups,  as  opportunities 
may  occur.  At  present  the  communications  between  the 
brethren  are  by  no  means  so  frequent  or  regular  or  efficient 
as  they  might  be  rendered ;  and  as  to  other  groups,  it  is 
well  known  that  a  large  portion  of  those  to  the  westward 
of  Samoa  use  dialects  of  the  Polynesian  language  ;  the 
introduction  of  the  gospel  among  them  will  therefore  be 
easy,  and  would  pave  the  way  to  the  millions  of  the 
Papuan  race  who  are  partly  mingled  with  them ;  but  in 
order  to  effect  this  a  vessel  should  be  at  the  command  of 
the  brethren." 

It  is  deeply  interesting  to  refer  back  to  the  time  when 
the  above  minute  was  adopted,  and  contrast  the  state  of 
tilings  then  and  now.     Then,  with  the  exception  of  the 


58  RETURN  TO  TUTUILA. 

Tongan  group,  all  beyond  Samoa  was  enshrouded  in 
heathen  darkness.  A  dreary  waste,  indeed,  was  that  which 
at  that  time  lay  beyond  us,  and  mighty  were  the  obstacles 
which  must  be  overcome  before  the  light  of  the  gospel 
could  be  spread  over  those  regions  of  "  Satan's  dark 
domain;"  but  we  were  being  moved  to  feel  after  the 
accomplishment  of  the  great  object,  and  to  form  plans 
and  purposes,  which  were  in  due  time  to  be  carried  into 
effect.  We  adopted  and  endeavoured  to  act  upon  the 
principle  laid  down  by  the  illustrious  Carey, — "  Attempt 
great  things  for  God,  and  expect  great  things  from  God." 
And  God  has  honoured  our  confidence,  and  granted  us  our 
desire,  to  an  extent  wliich  calls  for  the  devoutest  gratitude. 
That  part  of  the  minute  which  refers  to  the  Papuan  race 
has  long  been  in  the  course  of  fulfilment  by  the  agents  of 
our  own  and  other  Societies ;  islands  which  are  inhabited 
by  the  Malay  race,  which  were  then  in  darkness,  are  now 
evangelised,  and  the  great  land  of  Papua  itself  is  reached, 
and  a  broad  belt  of  light  stretches  across  the  vast  Pacific 
from  the  Marquesas  to  New  Guinea.  "Well  may  we  exclaim, 
"  Wliat  hath  God  wrought ! " 

Our  business  at  Upolu  being  finished,  we  embarked 
again  on  board  our  little  vessel,  and  set  out  to  return  to 
Tutuila.  We  had  fine  weather  but  a  most  tedious  passage, 
owing  to  calms  and  unfavourable  winds.  Nearly  a  week 
was  occupied  with  the  voyage,  and  at  its  close  Mr  Barnden 
and  myself  came  very  near  arriving  at  another  home  than 
that  to  which  we  were  bound. 

We  had  reached  the  entrance  to  the  harbour  of  Pango- 
pango.  We  were  considerably  within  the  bay,  and  were 
trying  to  make  our  way  up  to  the  anchorage,  when  the 
wind  failed  us,  and  left  us  helpless  between  two  reefs  over 
which  a  heavy  sea  was  breaking.  The  sun  had  long  gone 
down,  and  the  moon,  which  had  lighted  our  way  so  far,  was 
about  sinking  behind  the  hills  over  our  longed-for  home. 


NA  RRO  W  ESC  A  PE.  59 

We  had  no  boat ;  hence  our  situation  was  critical.  There 
were  a  number  of  vessels  at  anchor  in  the  harbour,  but  the 
masters  of  these  knew  not  of  us  and  of  our  circumstances. 
As  a  substitute  for  a  boat,  our  vessel  carried  a  small 
double  canoe.  In  this  Mr  Barnden  and  I  determined  to 
leave  the  vessel,  with  the  twofold  object  of  procuring 
assistance  from  the  ships  at  anchor,  and  afterwards  pro- 
ceeding on  shore.  We  either  did  not  know  at  the  time, 
or  had  forgotten,  that  there  is  a  sunken  rock  about  mid- 
channel  in  the  entrance  to  the  harbour,  over  which  the  sea 
at  times  breaks  very  heavily.  Unhappily,  when  we  left 
the  vessel  we  were  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  said 
rock,  and  at  the  time  it  was  not  in  one  of  its  quiet  moods. 
We  had  left  the  vessel  but  a  few  minutes,  and  were  going 
briskly  along,  utterly  unsuspicious  of  danger,  when  the  sea 
broke  under  us,  and  we  and  our  frail  skiff  were  engulfed. 
Neither  of  us  could  swim  much,  but  we  had  two  men  with 
us,  a  Tahitian  and  a  Samoan,  When  we  came  to  the  sur- 
face, the  Tahitian,  instead  of  helping  us,  thinking  probably 
that  we  could  swim  as  well  as  himself,  busied  himself  in 
looking  after  our  travelling  bags  ;  so  we  had  only  the  one 
Samoan.  He  stuck  to  us  nobly,  and  we  managed  to  hold 
on  to  the  canoe.  The  receding  waves  carried  us  beyond  the 
breakers,  and  our  faithful  Samoan,  Lota  by  name,  made 
the  best  of  his  way  out  of  their  reach,  dragging  the  canoe 
with  us  holding  on  to  it.  After  we  came  to  the  surface, 
one  huge  wave  came  over  us  which  looked  very  dreadful ; 
Mr  Barnden  remarked  as  it  was  coming  upon  us,  "We 
shall  not  stand  many  more  like  that."  That  same  wave, 
however,  I  suppose,  carried  us  beyond  the  breakers.  When 
we  were  clear  of  these,  we  shouted  for  help ;  and  happily 
we  were  sufiiciently  near  the  vessel  to  be  heard  by  those 
on  board.  Two  strong  men,  who  had  accompanied  us 
to  Upolu,  leaped  into  the  sea  and  swam  to  our  aid.     By 


6o  HOME  SAFELY  REACHED. 

their  help  we  were  enabled  to  reach  the  ship,  and  so  to 
escape  from  the  perils  of  the  deep. 

We  were  young  at  the  time,  and  inexperienced  in  such 
adventures,  and  perhaps  were  inclined  to  exaggerate  the 
danger  in  which  we  had  been ;  but  certainly  both  of  us  felt 
ourselves  in  imminent  peril,  and  when  we  reached  the 
vessel,  the  sense  we  had  of  the  deliverance  we  had  ex- 
perienced, was  something  never  to  be  forgotten.  I  have 
been  in  dangers  since,  not  a  few ;  but  nothing  has  ever 
equalled  the  event  of  that  memorable  night.  It  was  a 
night  to  be  remembered  to  the  praise  of  our  gracious 
Deliverer.  By  some  means  our  situation  got  to  be  known 
to  the  masters  of  the  vessels  in  the  harbour ;  and  they 
kindly  sent  boats  by  which  our  little  craft  was  towed  in 
to  the  anchorage,  and  we  were  enabled  to  reach  the  longed- 
for  shore.  By  this  time  it  was  past  midnight.  Happily 
no  tidings  of  our  disaster  had  preceded  us,  to  alarm  the 
solitary  one  who  was  anxiously  awaiting  our  arrival  at 
home ;  so  she  heard  of  the  danger  and  the  deliverance  at 
the  same  time.  The  three  weeks  we  had  been  absent  had 
been  a  trying  time  for  her.  There  had  been  vessels  in  the 
harbour  all  the  time,  and  we  found  no  less  than  six  when 
we  arrived.  One  might  have  expected  that  the  presence 
of  these,  from  Christian  lands,  would  have  been  cheering 
and  assuring.  Such,  however,  was  far  from  being  the 
case  ;  on  the  contrary,  from  the  vile  conduct  of  their  law- 
less crews  had  arisen  the  heaviest  part  of  the  trial. 

Shortly  after  our  return  from  Upolu,  Mr  Piatt  left  us  to 
return  to  the  Tahitian  group.  Mr  Barnden  also  went  to 
his  own  station,  and  we  were  left  alone  to  resume  our 
accustomed  duties. 


(6i) 


CHAPTER  IX. 

KESUMPTION  OF  ACCUSTOMED  DUTIES — CLASS  FOR  WOMEN  AND  GIRLS — 
POSITION  OF  WOMEN  AMONG  THE  SAMOANS — THE  FRIDAY  MEETING — 
FIRST  NATIVE  TEACHER — SECOND  TOUR  OF  THE  DISTRICT— CONDUCT  OF 
FOREIGN  VISITORS — AWFUL  OCCURRENCE — CLOSE  OF  OUR  FIRST  TEAR's 
LABOURS. 

We  were  now  at  liberty  to  resume  our  accustomed  occupa- 
tions ;  the  pleasant  interruptions  of  tlie  past  montli  were 
over,  and  we  were  left  to  give  our  undivided  attention  to 
the  duties  of  our  own  station. 

Our  school  was  recommenced,  and  our  services  continued 
as  heretofore,  and  as  Raki  was  now  transferred  to  the  other 
district,  I  was  left  single-handed ;  so  that,  with  my  limited 
knowledge  of  the  language,  I  had  quite  as  much  to  attend 
to  as  I  could  well  manage.  So  far  notliing  had  been 
attempted  specially  on  behalf  of  the  women  and  girls ;  or 
rather,  all  previous  attempts  to  get  them  to  come  together 
for  instruction  had  failed.  On  this  account  Mrs  Murray 
liad  turned  to  boys  and  lads,  and  for  a  length  of  time  she 
had  been  instructing  a  class  of  them  daily.  About  twelve 
attended ;  they  learned  to  read  and  write  in  a  very  short 
time,  and  the  acquisitions  of  some  of  them  were  afterwards 
turned  to  good  account.  Now  a  class  of  women  and  girls 
was  got  together,  numbering  about  twenty,  who  attended 
with  tolerable  regularity ;  but  all  our  classes  still  continued 
to  be  greatly  interrupted  by  the  shipping  which  frequented 
the  port. 


62  POSITION  OF  WOMEN  IN  SAMOA. 

Woman  in  Samoa  had  never  occupied  the  inferior  position 
which  she  does  in  most  heathen  lands ;  still  there  was  a 
marked  difference  between  the  women  and  the  men  in 
point  of  intelligence,  and  as  regards  a  desire  for  instruction. 
Hence,  to  awaken  tlieir  interest  and  gain  their  attention 
was  proportionably  more  difficult  than  in  the  case  of  the 
men.  Persevering  effort,  however,  with  the  Divine  bless- 
ing, overcame  every  difficulty.  Not  a  very  great  while 
passed  before  their  interest  was  effectually  aroused,  and, 
eventually  they  were  not  behind  the  other  sex  in  attention 
to  the  means  of  grace  and  instruction ;  and  fully  as  large 
a  proportion  of  them,  I  think,  have  all  along  given  evidence 
of  being  Christians  indeed. 

Hitherto  my  preaching  efforts  had  been  chiefly  confined 
to  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  Pangopango.  Now 
I  began  to  visit  more  distant  parts,  and  the  people  also 
began  to  come  more  about  us,  and  to  show  a  disposition 
to  inquu'e  into  the  meaning  of  what  they  read  and  heard. 
Numbers  came  regularly  to  our  house  in  the  evenings, 
except  when  a  night- dance,  tlie  presence  of  profligate 
sailors,  or  some  other  special  attraction,  was  in  the  way. 
From  the  first  a  feio  were  proof  against  these  temptations, 
and  the  number  of  these  slowly  but  steadily  increased. 
Those  who  assembled  united  with  us  in  our  family  worship, 
after  which  the  more  intelligent  assisted  us  in  the  acqui- 
sition of  the  language,  and  occasionally  questions  were 
asked  and  subjects  came  up  which  led  to  useful  conversa- 
tions, to  which  all  listened.  These  evening  engagements 
were  among  the  most  pleasant  and  profitable  of  our  occupa- 
tions at  this  time,  and  I  believe  they  were  as  useful  to  the 
natives  as  they  were  interesting  to  us. 

About  this  time  a  few  of  the  more  advanced  among  the 
natives  commenced  the  observance  of  family  worship ;  so 
our  ears  were  greeted  by  other  sounds  than  those  of  heathen 
revelry,  or  of  the  low  and  filtliy  songs  of  abandoned  sailors. 


THE  FRIDA  V  MEETING.  63 

We  liad  now  a  few  individuals  in  our  immediate  neiglibour- 
liood,  and  also  in  the  villages  around  the  Lay  and  else- 
where, who  had  renounced  heathenism  in  something  more 
than  name.  They  had  given  up  frequenting  the  dances, 
and  other  heathen  practices,  and  they  avowed  their 
determination  to  follow  Christ;  to  endeavour  to  refrain 
from  all  that  He  forbids,  and  to  practise  all  that  He 
enjoins.  Extraordinary  circumstances  require  to  be  met 
by  extraordinary  expedients.  Our  circumstances  at  the 
time  referred  to  were  such  as  seemed  to  require  some 
special  adaptation.  It  seemed  desirable  that  something 
should  be  done  to  distinguish  those  who  appeared  to  be 
in  earnest  in  the  pursuit  of  truth  from  those  who  were  still 
heathen  in  almost  everything  except  the  name;  to  give 
definiteness  and  force  to  their  example,  as  well  as  to 
encourage  them  in  the  struggle  they  had  to  maintain 
against  temptations  within  and  without.  We  did  not  feel 
satisfied  that  they  had  really  passed  from  death  unto  life. 
Hence  the  idea  of  forming  a  church  could  not  yet  be 
entertained.  What,  then,  was  to  be  done  ?  I  state  the 
case  thus  particularly,  because  exception  has  been  taken 
to  the  course  we  adopted.  We  followed  the  example  of  our 
elder  brethren  in  the  Tahitian  and  Earotongan  missions, 
and  set  up  what  was  called  the  "  Friday  meeting,"  from  the 
day  on  which  it  was  held.  This  meeting  consisted  of  the 
select  class  referred  to  above,  and  was  virtually  a  cate- 
chumen's class.  After  a  time,  when  the  circumstances 
which  gave  rise  to  it  no  longer  existed,  its  character  was 
changed.  It  was  made  an  open  meeting,  and  the  candidates' 
class  in  the  different  villages  took  its  place. 

At  the  time  referred  to,  however,  it  was  of  great  use. 
None  of  our  services  excited  more  interest  or  appeared 
to  lead  to  more  valuable  results  than  our  Friday  meet- 
ings. The  exercises  consisted  of  a  sermon,  generally  of 
a   somewhat   special   character.      This   was   followed   by 


64  FIRST  NATIVE  TEACHER. 

addresses  from  teachers  who  might  be  present  (after  we 
came  to  have  teachers),  and  from  the  more  advanced  of  the 
members ;  and  in  the  evening  we  had  a  catechetical  exercise 
upon  the  discourse,  extending  sometimes  to  passages  of 
Scripture  on  which  the  addresses  of  different  speakers  had 
been  founded.  In  early  days  I  conducted  this  exercise, 
the  whole  company  meeting  in  the  large  house  in  which 
our  services  were  at  this  time  held.  Afterwards,  when 
each  village  had  its  own  teacher,  the  plan  was  changed, 
and  a  separate  service  was  held  at  each  village. 

In  June  of  this  year,  1837,  I  made  a  second  tour  of  the 
district,  and  took  a  step  wliich  had  an  important  bearing 
(HI  the  work.  So  far  nothing  had  been  attempted  by  native 
instrumentality — I  mean  natives  of  our  own  island.  None 
of  them  had,  up  to  tliis  time,  been  sufficiently  advanced 
to  be  placed  as  teachers  over  others.  Now  one  man,  a 
native  of  the  island,  who  had  recently  returned  from 
Upolu,  where,  for  a  length  of  time,  he  had  been  near  the 
Earotongan  teacher  Teava,  was  considered  eligible  to  be 
employed  in  teacliing  his  countrymen.  He  was  naturally 
a  shrewd  man,  and,  during  his  connection  with  Teava,  he 
had  learned  to  read  and  write,  and  had  gained  considerable 
acquaintance  with  the  truths  of  the  Bible;  and,  withal, 
there  was  reason  to  hope  that  he  had  felt  the  power  of  the 
truth  in  his  own  heart.  Thus  he  was  far  in  advance  of 
his  countrymen,  and  it  was  thought  desirable  to  try  to 
turn  him  to  account.  Kespect  for  his  teacher  had  led  him 
to  assume  his  name,  so  he  went  by  the  name  of  Teava. 

We  set  out  on  our  tour  on  the  29  th  of  June,  taking 
Teava  with  us,  with  the  intention  of  placing  him  on 
Aunuu,  a  small  island  about  ten  miles  distant  from  Paucjo- 
pango,  should  we  be  able  to  induce  the  pe(5ple  to  receive 
him.  In  this  we  succeeded,  though  not  witliout  difficulty. 
The  people  wished  to  have  a  teacher,  but  they  wanted  a 
Earotongan  or  a  Tahitian,  and  did  not  see  why  one  of 


VISIT  TO  THE  HE  A  THEN.  65 

themselves  should  be  set  over  them  as  their  instructor. 
However,  we  carried  our  point,  and  a  new  stage  in  the 
history  of  our  little  island  was  entered  upon. 

Our  reception  during  this  tour  was  much  the  same  as 
on  the  former  occasion,  and  nothing  particularly  note- 
w^orthy  occurred.  In  addition  to  meeting  the  people  of 
the  different  villages  in  the  large  house,  according  to 
Sanioan  fashion,  I  tried  household  visitation.  No  visible 
effect,  however,  followed.  At  one  village  we  had  a  serious 
disturbance,  which  might  have  led  to  awkward  conse- 
quences. A  wldte.  man,  one  of  the  class  with  whom  the 
reader  is  already  familiar,  had  sought  and  found  a  con- 
genial retreat  in  one  of  the  dark  heathen  villages  wliicli 
we  had  visited,  or  were  about  to  visit — I  forget  which. 
He  felt  annoyed,  I  suppose,  that  the  light  should  follow 
him,  and  vented  his  indignation  in  abusive  lan^uacje 
directed  against  me.  One  of  our  party,  more  zealous  than 
wise,  laid  violent  hands  upon  him,  and  he  in  turn  seized  a 
hatchet,  with  which  he  threatened  to  murder  my  friend. 
By  the  intervention,  I  suppose,  of  others  of  our  party  who 
took  the  matter  more  calmly,  the  affair  was  ended  witliout 
any  serious  consequences.  I  saw  the  white  man  after- 
wards, and  took  the  opportunity  of  talking  a  little  to  him  ; 
but  he  appeared  awfully  hardened,  and  simk — more  so 
than  the  heathen  around  us.  The  natives  seemed  to  wonder 
that  I  did  not  resent  his  conduct,  and  thus  the  incident 
was  of  use  as  affording  an  opportunity  of  showing  how  a 
Christian  should  act  in  such  cii'cumstances. 

My  efforts  to  induce  the  heatlien  to  embrace  Christianity 
were  zealously  seconded  by  some  of  the  natives  of  our 
party,  and  their  remarks  sometimes  were  strildng  and 
appropriate.  On  one  occasion,  Pomare  was  urging  upon 
his  countrymen  the  acceptance  of  the  new  religion  on  the 
ground  that  missionaries  were  true  men,  and  actuated  by 
genuine  love  to  them.    "  Why,"  said  he,  "  when  any  one  is 


66  AN  A  IVFUL  OCCURRENCE. 

sick  at  a  distance  from  lis  on  this  island,  or  on  IJpoln,  we 
don't  go  to  visit  him,  and  try  to  relieve  him ;  but  they,  the 
missionaries,  have  left  all,  and  come  from  a  very,  very  dis- 
tant land  to  seek  our  good.  Can  tins  be  anything  but  true 
love?" 

On  our  return  home,  we  found  everything  going  on 
comfortably.  For  a  length  of  time  we  had  had  no  ships 
in  the  harbour,  and  schools  and  services  had  been  well 
attended,  and  all  had  been  progressing  favourably.  Our 
lull,  however,  was  of  short  continuance.  On  the  day  after 
our  return,  two  vessels  arrived,  the  crews  of  which  had 
not  been  outdone  in  wickedness  by  any  who  had  preceded 
them.  One  of  them  had  met  with  a  dreadful  disaster  a 
few  months  before  their  visit  to  Tutuila,  which,  one  would 
have  thought,  would  have  left  some  impression.  Whales 
were  in  sight,  and  the  boats  were  being  lowered  to  give 
them  chase,  when  the  captain,  in  stepping  over  the  side  of 
the  ship,  gave  utterance  to  language  almost  too  awful  to 

place  on  record : — "  D my  soul !  I'll  take  a  whale  to-day 

or  go  to  hell."  Wretched  man  !  there  is  too  much  reason 
to  fear  he  did  go  to  hell  that  day.  The  boat  in  which  he 
was,  and  all  in  it,  through  some  accident,  were  lost  that 
same  day.  The  mate  was  now  in  charge  of  the  ship,  and 
he,  and  those  who  remained  of  the  crew,  did  not  appear  to 
have  profited  by  the  awful  warning.  The  doctor  of  the 
ship,  who  professed  to  have  some  regard  for  religion,  told 
me  the  above  tale ;  he  seemed  to  have  been  much  shocked 
by  the  occurrence. 

The  conduct  of  the  crews  of  these  vessels  produced  the 
usual  disastrous  effects,  though  to  a  somewhat  less  degree ; 
and  so  it  continued  to  be — vessels  came  and  went  as  they 
had  been  wont  in  considerable  numbers,  and  the  character 
of  their  captains  and  crews  was,  in  the  gi-eat  majority  of 
cases,  of  the  above  stamp ;  but,  by  the  help  and  blessing 
of  God,  we  were  evidently  gaining  ground  all  the  time, 


INDICA  TIONS  OF  PROGRESS.  67 

and  at  the  close  of  our  first  year's  laljours  tlie  review  was 
fitted  to  clieer  and  encourage  with  reference  to  the  future. 
What  an  eventful  year  had  it  been  to  ourselves,  in  our 
own  immediate  sphere,  and  to  our  mission  as  a  wliole ! — 
a  year  of  marvellous  mercy.  Trials  and  checks  we  had 
met  with — this  was  a  matter  of  course.  It  had  been  ex- 
pected, so  we  were  not  taken  by  surprise.  But,  on  the 
whole,  our  mission  had  a  wonderfully  auspicious  com- 
mencement. Instead  of  a  long  dreary  "  niglit  of  toil,"  sucli 
as  most  first  missionaries  have  to  pass  through,  the  day 
had  already  dawned  wlien  we  entered  upon  our  work, 
so  that  our  mission  was  inaugurated  and  prosecuted  amid 
the  cheering  light  and  bracing  influences  of  opening  and 
advancing  day.  Hence  our  labours  began  to  take  effect 
almost  as  soon  as  they  were  commenced.  In  subsequent 
years  we  had  our  share  of  trials  and  reverses,  but  our 
mission  certainly  had  an  exceptional  beginning. 

The  above  remarks,  as  will  probably  have  occurred  to 
the  reader,  are  more  applicable  to  the  mission  as  a  whole 
than  to  our  own  immediate  sphere.  That^  as  we  have  seen, 
was  in  all  but  total  darkness  when  we  commenced  our 
labours.  By  the  Divine  blessing  on  these,  however,  they 
soon  began  to  take  effect ;  the  evidence  became  more  and 
more  clear  that  we  were  not  labouring  in  vain ;  and  we 
entered  upon  the  second  year  of  our  missionary  life  in  cir- 
cumstances full  of  encouragement. 

The  number  of  the  Christian  party  was  steadily  aug- 
menting ;  we  were  gaining  upon  the  confidence  and  affec- 
tions of  the  people ;  our  knowledge  of  the  language,  and 
ability  to  use  it  effectively,  were  increasing;  the  select 
number  who  professed  to  be  seeking  in  earnest  the  salva- 
^'ation  of  their  souls  was  receiving  additions  from  time  to 
time ;  and,  to  crown  all,  a  feiu  appeared  to  be  under  the 
teaching  of  the  Spirit  of  God;  and  in  this,  tlie  event 
proved,  we  were  not  mistaken.  "  God  was  working  with 
us,  and  confirming  the  word  with  signs  following." 


(68) 


CHAPTEE  X. 

TOUR  OF  THE  ISLAND  WITH  MR  BARNDEN — TEMPORARY  EXCHANGE  OF  STA- 
TIONS — STATE  OF  THE  LEONE  DISTRICT — STRIKING  INCIDENT — MISSIONARY 
VOYAGE  TO  MANUA — LOSS  OF  A  CANOE  AND  CREW — SUCCESS  OP  THE 
EXPEDITION  TO  MANUA— THE  FIRST  VISIT  OF  AN  ENGLISH  MAN-OF-WAR 
TO  SAMOA. 

In  the  montli  of  September  1837,  Mr  Barnden  and  I 
visited  tlie  greater  part  of  the  island.  As  on  former  occa- 
sions in  the  Pangopango  district,  our  efforts  were  vain  in 
as  far  as  appearances  went. 

After  the  completion  of  this  tour,  we  exchanged  stations 
with  Mr  Baruden  for  a  few  months.  This  he  kindly  pro- 
posed that  he  might  finish  our  dwelling-house,  as  he  was 
better  acquainted  with  house-building  than  I  was. 

I  left  Pangopango  for  Leone  on  the  19th  of  September. 
The  weather  was  too  rough  at  the  time  to  allow  of  Mrs 
Murray  accompanying  me.  She  followed  in  a  few  days, 
and  reached  Leone  in  safety,  but  not  without  having  been 
in  some  danger.  The  weather  was  still  too  rough  for  the 
journey  by  sea.  However,  she  and  her  party  were  merci- 
fully preserved.  We  were  very  apt  to  get  into  danger  in 
those  days  from  ignorance  and  inexperience.  A  few  years 
later,  such  a  journey  would  not  have  been  attempted  in 
such  weather. 

We  enjoyed  the  change  to  Leone  exceedingly.  It  was 
such  a  relief  to  get  for  a  time  to  a  place  where  there  was 
no  harbour ;  and  where,  on  that  account,  we  were  free  from 


VISIT  TO  LEONE.  69 

the  interruptions  and  hindrances  which  shipping  such  as 
that  which  frequented  rangoj)ango  harbour  occasioned. 

Another  great  advantage  which  Leone  has  over  Pango- 
pango  is  that  the  village  itself  is  double  the  size;  and, 
moreover,  there  were  at  the  time  referred  to  a  number  of 
villages  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood,  containing  a 
mucli  larger  population  than  was  to  be  found  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Pangopango.  And  another  very  im- 
portant difference  at  the  time  of  our  visit  was,  that  the 
great  body  of  the  people,  both  in  Leone  and  in  the  neigh- 
Ijouring  villages,  had  abandoned  heathenism,  and  were 
nominally  Christian.  Hence  the  state  of  things  there 
was  much  more  encouraging  than  at  Pangopango. 
Schools  and  services  were  attended  steadily  and  regu- 
larly by,  I  suppose,  four  times  the  number.  With  refer- 
ence to  the  real  character  of  the  people,  the  difference  was 
not  great ;  but  the  fact  that  so  many  more  were  nominally 
Christian,  and  on  that  account  were  accessible,  and  in 
attendance  upon  schools  and  services,  gave  this  station 
important  advantages  over  the  other  at  the  time  referred 
to,  and  rendered  it  a  very  much  more  attractive  sphere  of 
labour. 

We  went  to  work  at  once,  and  spent  nearly  four  months 
very  happily.  The  people  were  eager  after  knowledge, 
and  applied  themselves  to  learn  to  read  and  write  with 
great  diligence.  The  house  in  which  our  schools  and  ser- 
vices were  held  was  crowded,  and  every  night  our  house 
was  filled  to  overflowing,  and  many  were  the  delightful 
evenings  we  spent  in  communicating  information  to  eager 
listeners.  The  women  and  girls  were  especially  anxious 
to  make  the  most  of  our  visit.  Mr  Barnden  was  unmar- 
ried, and  our  stay  was  not  to  be  very  long;  hence  their 
anxiety  to  turn  to  the  best  account  Mrs  ]\Iurray's  brief 
sojourn  among  them.  She  had  school  twice  a  day.  In 
the  forenoon  a  select  class  met,  and  had  special  instruc- 


70  A  STRIKING  OCCURRENCE. 

tioii  to  fit  them  for  acting  as  mouitors ;  and  in  the  after- 
noon, from  seventy  to  eighty  assembled  and  sought  with 
most  commendable  diligence  to  improve  their  opportunity. 

During  our  stay  at  Leone,  the  people  there  took  a  very 
important  step,  which  led  to  important  results  on  other 
parts  of  the  island — they  gave  up  heathen  dances.  Pango- 
pango  soon  followed  their  example,  and  thus  at  the  two 
leading  places  we  got  rid  of  one  of  the  most  formidable 
obstacles  to  progress  in  everything  good.  During  our  stay 
at  Leone  an  event  took  place  which  is  perhaps  worth  men- 
tioning. It  struck  us  much  at  the  time  of  its  occurrence, 
and  it  exerted  a  powerful  influence  among  the  people. 
The  wife  and  daughter  of  a  man  named  Uo  were  taken 
ill.  He  applied  to  me  for  medicine,  which  was  supplied. 
He  was  a  large,  powerful  man,  and,  to  all  appearance,  in 
perfect  health.  Towards  evening  on  the  same  day,  a 
request  was  sent  to  me  to  visit  Mm,  as  he  had  been  taken 
ill.  I  went,  and  found  him  unwell  as  reported,  and  the 
people  about  him  in  very  ill  humour,  scolding  the  poor 
man,  because,  as  they  said,  he  had  acted  wickedly.  His  wife 
and  daughter  had  continued  to  get  worse,  and  he  had 
given  expression  to  ■svTong  feelings  towards  God  in  some 
such  language  as  the  following  : — "  If  God  is  really  a  God 
of  power,  may  I  go  first,  or  may  I  be  taken  instead  of  my 
wife  and  daughter." 

I  did  not  think  much  of  the  matter ;  the  case  did  not 
appear  to  me  serious,  so  I  returned  home  and  sent  him  a 
dose  of  medicine,  not  dreaming  of  anything  serious.  How- 
ever, about  midnight  the  same  night,  we  were  aroused  by 
the  dismal  death-wail  which  the  heathen  were  accustomed 
to  raise  when  one  of  their  number  died  ;  and  in  the  morn- 
ing we  %vere  surprised  and  shocked  to  learn  that  Uo  was 
dead  !  He  had  been  taken  first,  as  he  had  requested,  and 
his  wife  and  daughter  recovered.  The  natives  regarded 
the  thing  as  a  judgment,  and  as  a  proof  that  God  is  indeed 


VISIT  TO  MANUA.  71 

powerful,  and  that  it  is  a  hazardous  thing  to  appeal  to 
Him  as  poor  Uo  had  done.  In  such  a  state  of  society  an 
occurrence  like  the  above  produces  a  very  deep  impression, 
and  supplies  a  powerful  check  to  the  habit  of  making  rash 
vows  and  passionate  appeals  to  the  true  God,  such  as,  in 
their  heathen  state,  the  people  were  accustomed  to  make 
to  their  gods.  The  effect  produced  upon  survivors  bears  a 
resemblance  to  that  described  in  Acts  v.  11,  as  having  fol- 
lowed an  occuiTence  someivhat  similar : — "  And  great  fear 
came  upon  all  the  Church,  and  upon  as  many  as  heard 
these  things."  The  case  of  Uo  has  never  been  forgotten  at 
Leone,  and  who  can  tell  to  how  great  an  extent  it  has 
operated  as  a  salutary  warning  ?  Other  things  of  a  similar 
character  occurred  during  the  early  years  of  our  missionary 
life,  but  the  above  will  suffice  as  a  specimen. 

It  was  during  our  stay  at  Leone,  in  the  month  of 
November,  that  a  mission  to  Manua  was  projected.  No 
attempt  had  yet  been  made  towards  the  evangelisation  of 
that  group,  and  it  is  remarkable  that,  unknown  to  each 
other,  the  brethren  on  the  Leeward  Islands,  and  we  on 
Tutuila,  projected  and  arranged  for  a  visit  to  the  group  at 
the  same  time.  After  our  arrangements  were  completed, 
and  our  party  had  started  on  their  mission,  but  before 
they  had  finally  quitted  Tutuila,  a  boat  arrived  from  Upolu 
with  three  Samoans,  commissioned  by  the  brethren,  by 
whom  they  were  sent,  to  act  as  teachers  on  Manua.  They 
were  accompanied  by  Teava  and  Uea,  a  Tahitian  teacher, 
who  were  in  charge  of  the  expedition.  They  had  been 
instructed  to  call  at  Tutuila  and  confer  with  us,  that 
we  might  render  such  aid  as  was  in  our  power  towards 
carrying  the  oljject  into  effect.  Eaki  was  in  charge  of  our 
party.  The  boat  from  the  leeward  followed  them  without 
delay,  and  overtook  them  at  some  point  on  Tutuila.  Both 
parties  proceeded  to  the  small  island  of  Aunuu,  the  start- 
ing-place for  Manua,  to  wait  a  favourable  opportunity  for 


72  A  PAINFUL  DISASTER. 

setting  out  on  their  voyage.  A  sad  disaster  was  connected 
with  the  commencement  of  the  Manna  mission.  Our  people 
found  at  Aunuu  a  party  from  Manua  waiting  for  a  fair 
wind  to  return  to  their  home.  As  is  usual  on  such  occa- 
sions, the  whole  party  started  together,  and,  unhappily,  one 
f)f  our  people,  for  what  reason  does  not  appear,  took  a 
passage  in  the  Manua  canoe.  A  violent  storm  overtook 
the  party.  Our  people,  who  had  one  boat  and  two  canoes, 
managed,  with  great  difficulty,  to  get  back  to  Aunuu ;  but 
the  Manua  canoe  was  lost,  with  all  lielonging  to  it,  includ- 
ing, of  course,  our  man.  There  would  be  at  least  ten  or 
twelve  persons  in  the  canoe — most  likely  more. 

A  second  attempt  was  successful;  the  party  reached 
Manua  in  safety,  and  were  well  received,  and  about  300 
people  abandoned  heathenism  and  embraced  Christianity. 
The  teachers  were  located  under  encouraging  circumstances, 
and  the  deputation  returned  much  pleased  with  the  result 
of  their  expedition.  And  thus,  in  November  1837,  was 
commenced,  by  native  instrumentality,  the  Manua  mission. 
No  white  missionary  had,  up  to  this  time,  set  foot  on  its 
shores. 

Towards  the  close  of  our  residence  at  Leone,  an  event 
occurred  which  deserves  a  permanent  record.  The  "  Con- 
way," a  British  man-of-war,  \dsited  the  Samoan  group. 
Her  \asit  to  Tutuila  was  in  the  last  week  of  December 
1837.  She  was  the  first  man-of-war  which  visited  the 
Pangopango  side  of  the  island.  No  other  man-of-war  had 
touched  at  Tutuila,  or  on  any  other  island  of  the  group,  so 
far  as  can  be  ascertained,  since  the  unfortunate  expedition 
of  La  Perouse  in  1787.  Hence  the  viisit  of  the  "  Conway" 
was  a  thing  to  be  noted  and  remembered.  She  was  under 
the  command  of  a  gentleman  of  high  character  and  posi- 
tion. Captain  Drinkwater  Bethune.  Her  special  errand 
was  to  rid  the  islands,  as  far  as  possible,  of  the  presence  of 
certain  characters  who  had  escaped  from  the  penal  settle- 


VISIT  OF  A  MAN-OF-WAR.  73 

ments  -wliich  at  that  time  existed  in  New  South  Wales 
and  elsewhere  in  Australia,  and  any  other  British  subjects 
who  might,  by  their  misconduct,  have  rendered  themselves 
obnoxious  to  the  natives.  She  was  too  late  to  have  much 
success  in  her  special  errand.  Something,  that  finds  its 
way  where  men-of-war  cannot  penetrate,  had  found  out 
the  characters  of  whom  she  was  in  quest,  and  sent  most 
of  them  to  seek  other  hiding-places  on  islands  where  the 
darkness  of  heathenism  remained  unbroken. 

The  visit  of  the  "  Conway "  was  useful  to  us  in  many 
ways.  Captain  Bethune  did  everything  in  his  power  to 
strengthen  our  hands.  The  conduct  of  himself,  and  his 
officers  and  ship's  company,  contrasted  strikingly  with 
that  of  the  masters  and  crews  of  whalers,  and  gave  the 
natives  a  high  idea  of  British  men-of-war.  Captain 
Bethune  had  our  harbour  surveyed  and  examined,  and  a 
chart  of  it  prepared — the  first,  no  doubt,  that  was  ever 
made  of  any  Samoan  port.  He  also  drew  up  port  regula- 
tions, which  were  adopted  by  the  native  authorities,  and 
which  were  of  great  use  in  restraining  and  keeping  in 
check  future  visitors.  The  visit  of  the  "  Conway  "  was  an 
event  in  our  history  connected  with  which  there  is  nothing 
to  regret ;  the  influence  it  exerted  was  altogether  beneficial ; 
and,  to  a  large  extent,  this  has  been  the  case  with  reference 
to  all  the  men-of-war  which  have  visited  the  islands  in 
subsequent  years. 


(74) 


CHAPTEE  XL 

KETURX  TO  PANGOPAXGO — TEACHERS*  CLASS — INCREASE  OP  CONGREGATIONS, 
AND  DEEPENING  INTEREST  AMONG  THE  PEOPLE FIRST  CHRISTIAN  MAR- 
RIAGE  HEATHEN     MARRIAGES    AND    DIFFICULTIES    ARISING   THEREFROM 

— OPPOSITION   OF   FOREIGNERS    TO   THE    PORT    REGULATIONS — ISSUE    OF 
THE  STRUGGLE. 

We  left  Leone,  and  returned  to  our  own  station,  on  the 
1st  of  January  1838.  Our  labours  at  Pangopango  were 
resumed  under  circumstances  on  the  whole  encouraging. 
The  experience  of  the  past,  so  different  from  tlie  quiet  of 
Leone,  was  of  course  vividly  remembered,  and  we  knew 
that  similar  trials  w^ere  before  us ;  but  the  conviction  that 
it  was  the  sphere  allotted  us  by  the  Master,  made  us  feel 
reconciled  and  hopeful ;  so  we  girded  up  our  loins  afresh, 
and  applied  ourselves  to  our  work,  looking  to  God  for  the 
needful  help,  and  the  promised  blessing. 

We  had  now  a  comfortable  dwelling-house,  through  the 
kindness  of  Mr  Barnden — a  thing  of  no  small  consequence 
in  a  climate  like  that  of  Samoa. 

Up  to  this  time  we  had  encouraged  the  natives  to 
assemble  in  our  house  at  the  hour  of  evening  worship ;  so 
we  had  had  a  sort  of  public  service  every  evening.  At  the 
commencement  of  our  work  this  was,  perhaps,  the  best 
plan  that  could  have  been  adopted,  and  it  answered 
important  ends  both  to  the  people  and  to  ourselves. 
But  it  was  not  of  course  adapted  for  a  permanent  arrange- 
ment.    It  was  not  suitable  for  those  who  were  heads  of 


INC  RE  AS  I. YG  CONGREGATIONS.  75 

families,  nor  was  it  a  desirable  thing  for  young  people  ;  so, 
as  soon  as  it  seemed  advisable  to  encourage  the  people  to 
set  up  family  worship  in  theii-  own  houses,  they  were 
recommended  to  do  so.  In  cases  where  there  was  no  one 
that  could  conduct  a  service,  the  family  so  circumstanced 
could  unite  with  a  neighbouring  family,  or  they  might 
still  come  and  join  with  us.  The  recommendation  was 
generally  adopted ;  so  in  the  Christian  families  throughout 
the  village,  the  voice  of  prayer  ushered  in  and  closed  the 
day.  There  were  no  heathen  dances  now,  to  prevent 
attention  to,  and  attendance  upon,  better  things. 

Our  Friday  ser\ices  became  more  and  more  attractive 
and  useful.  They  exerted  an  important  influence  in 
forming  and  moidding  ^public  ojnnion  with  reference  to  a 
great  variety  of  subjects,  touching  which  the  notions  and 
practice  of  the  Samoans  were  radically  wrong.  A  class, 
wliich  had  recently  been  commenced  for  imparting  special 
instruction  to  a  select  few  who  were  acting  to  some  extent 
as  teachers  in  their  respective  villages,  also  came  together 
on  Friday.  With  them  I  used  to  spend  the  greater  part  of 
the  forenoon.  Hence  Friday  became  one  of  our  busiest 
and  most  profitable  days.  It  had  an  important  bearing  on 
our  Sabbath  services.  Many  of  the  people  who  attended 
the  Friday  meetings  remained  for  these;  and  the  conse- 
quence was,  that  instead  of  lia"sang,  as  we  had  been  wont, 
a  congregation  of  seventy  or  eighty  persons,  we  had  from 
two  to  three  hundred,  embracing  select  parties  from  many 
A'illages  far  and  near.  They  made  an  effort — a  great  effort 
in  some  cases — to  be  with  us,  coming  considerable  distances, 
over  very  rough  roads  and  sometimes  stormy  seas,  to  enjoy 
what  they  were  learning  to  esteem  as  a  high  privilege. 
And  such  being  the  cii'cumstances  under  wliich  they  united 
with  us,  they  were  not  likely  to  be  inattentive  or  forgetful 
hearers ;  nor  were  they  likely  to  be  silent  as  to  what  they 
had  seen  and  heard  when  they  returned  to  their  homes. 


76  DEEPENING  INTEREST. 

And  thus  the  interest  in  the  new  religion  was  being 
deepened  and  extended,  and  the  way  was  being  prepared 
for  the  entire  subversion  of  heathenism,  and  the  universal 
prevalence  of  a  new  order  of  things. 

In  February  I  made  another  tour  of  the  district.  I 
visited  twelve  principal  villages  and  a  few  smaller  ones — 
consisting  of  only  a  few  families.  Four  out  of  the  twelve 
were  wholly  heathen.  In  aU  the  others  there  were  a  few 
professedly  Christian,  and  a  little  progress  was  being  made. 

On  the  20th  of  this  month,  February  1838,  the  first 
Christian  marriage  took  place  on  Tutuila,  and  shortly  after 
that  came  an  affair  presenting  a  painful  and  revolting 
contrast — a  heathen  marriage,  and  one  of  the  worst  sort. 
It  would  not  be  to  edification  to  enter  into  particulars. 
The  brides  were  two  young  women,  who,  against  their  own 
wishes,  were  given  to  two  chiefs,  both  of  whom  were  abeady 
married,  and  had  each  one  wife  or  more  Living.  They  were 
important  chiefs — ^refugees  from  Upolu.  They  were  con- 
cerned in  the  murder  of  Tamafainga/^  and  to  escape  the 
vengeance  of  his  adherents,  they  had  fled  to  Tutuila,  where 
they  had  resided  a  number  of  years.  They  were  men  of 
rank  and  mark,  and  to  form  an  alliance  with  them  was  a 
thing  not  to  be  lightly  regarded.  Hence  the  forthcoming 
marriages,  which  were  to  come  off  on  the  same  day,  were 
regarded  as  a  grand  occasion,  such  as  did  not  very  often 
occur  on  Tutuila.  Besides,  one  of  the  brides,  the  one  who 
was  to  be  given  to  the  greater  of  the  two  chiefs,  was  an 
adopted  daughter  of  Maunga,  the  most  famous  chief  on  the 
island,  and  she  was  viewed  and  treated  exactly  as  if  she 
had  been  his  own  daughter.  Preparations  had  been  making 
for  the  affair  for  many  months,  and  a  great  part  of  the  island 
was  involved  in  it,  and  everything  was  to  be  gone  about  in 
thoroughly  heathen  style. 

*  See  Williams'  "  Missionary  Enterprises,"  p.  327,  page  85  of  the  cheap 
edition. 


A  HEATHEN  MARRIAGE.  77 

Hence  we  could  only  discourage  those  who  professed 
regard  for  the  Word  of  God,  and  looked  to  us  for  advice, 
from  taking  any  part  in  it ;  so  it  became  a  testing  thing. 
Those  who  took  part  in  it  must  cease  to  be  members  of  our 
select  class.  A  number  gave  way,  but,  considering  the 
circumstances,  it  is  a  marvel  that  so  many  stood  fast. 
Pomare,  Maunga's  own  son,  and  reputed  brother  of  one 
of  the  girls,  was  among  the  number  of  those  who  held  fast 
their  integrity.  He  and  others  fled  to  our  house  on  the 
day  when  matters  came  to  a  crisis,  to  get  out  of  the  way  of 
danger,  and  remained  till  all  was  over. 

The  daughter  of  Maunga  was  compelled  to  live  with  the 
man  to  whom  she  was  given  till  the  death  of  Maunga, 
which  occurred  about  two  years  after  the  marriage.  Then 
she  left  him  and  fled  to  Pomare  for  protection,  and  so  the 
unhallowed  connection  terminated.  After  a  few  years, 
Tuisainoa  (King  of  Samoa),  as  he  was  then  called,  returned 
to  his  own  land,  Upolu.  He  took  to  himself  the  name  of 
Le  Aitu  0  Lalonci,  the  devil  or  demon  here  below — a  most 
appropriate  name  truly.  He  lived  many  years  after  his 
return  to  Upolu,  but  continued  a  heathen  to  the  end  of  his 
days.  He  was  killed  during  the  course  of  the  long  war,  as 
it  is  called  in  Samoa,  about  the  year  1850. 

This  trial  was  not  well  over  till  another  of  a  different 
character,  but  not  less  difficult  to  deal  with,  came  upon  us. 
During  the  early  years  of  our  mission,  and  indeed  to  a 
great  extent  all  through,  we  realised  pretty  fully  Bunyan's 
quaint  description  of  the  Christian  man,  who — 

"  Is  seldom  long  at  ease  ; 
When  one  trouble  doth  leave  him,  another  doth  him  seize." 

The  trouble  that  came  upon  us  now  was  one  of 
the  most  trying  we  had  yet  been  called  to  encounter. 
The  port  regulations  have  been  mentioned.  Little  did 
we  think,  when  we  were  congratulating  ourselves  on 
the  establishment  of  these,  that  they  would  be  the  occa- 


78  A  DESPERA  TE  STRUGGLE. 

sion  of  a  fierce  struggle,  in  which  we  should  have  to 
contend,  almost  single-handed,  against  both  foreigners  and 
natives.  Yet  so  it  was.  The  first  vessel  that  anchored 
in  the  harbour  after  the  visit  of  the  "  Conway "  was  an 
English  whaler.  During  the  first  two  or  three  days  of  her 
stay  all  was  quiet.  It  was  a  marvellous  change  to  what 
we  had  been  accustomed ;  and  we  were  rejoicing  over  it, 
and  thinking  what  a  blessing  our  new  laws  were  likely  to 
prove.  Alas  !  we  little  knew  what  a  storm  was  gathering. 
Laws  were  not  to  be  established  without  a  struggle. 
The  captain  of  the  vessel,  and  certain  parties  among  the 
foreigners  residing  on  shore,  like-minded  with  himself, 
united  their  counsels  and  efforts,  and  made  a  vigorous  and 
determined  attempt  to  get  the  laws  abrogated.  Tliey  re- 
presented to  the  chiefs  that,  if  the  laws  were  carried  out, 
vessels  would  not  come  into  the  harbour,  and  they  would 
be  deprived  of  the  opportunity  of  getting  property.  This 
was  a  telling  argument  with  the  natives,  and  it  was  all 
the  more  difficult  to  deal  with  that  there  was  some  truth 
in  it.  They  liad  but  recently  come  into  the  possession  of 
foreign  property,  and  they  were  gaining  importance  and 
influence  in  consequence  of  their  increasing  wealth.  They 
owed  what  they  had  almost  solely  to  the  visits  of  ships ; 
and  the  prospect  of  having  the  source  of  supply  cut  off, 
and  being  thrown  back  upon  the  destitution  of  former 
days,  w^as  anything  but  agreeable.  Hence  it  is  not  sur- 
prising that  they  gave  way,  and  consented  to  the  abroga- 
tion of  the  laws.  Tliis  they  did ;  and  the  enemies  of  law 
and  order  lost  no  time  in  making  us  feel  that  we  were 
again  in  a  lawless  land.  Their  joy  seemed  to  know  no 
bounds  while  they  gloried  in  their  shame  and  revelled  in 
their  fancied  freedom — freedom  to  act  as  the  slaves  of  sin 
and  Satan.  But  "  the  triumphing  of  the  wicked  is  short." 
The  laws  were  not  mine  in  any  sense,  though  our 
enemies  were  fond  of  asserting   that   tliey  were.     They 


TRIUMPH  OF  RIGHT.  79 

originated  solely  with  Captain  Betlmne,  and  Ly  him  tliey 
were  drawn  up,  without  my  having  any  hand  in  the  busi- 
ness. At  liis  reqiiest,  I  translated  them  into  the  Samoan 
language,  and  explained  them  to  the  natives,  advising  and 
encouraging  them  to  receive  them ;  but  the  adopting  of 
them  was  their  own  unconstrained  act.  Of  course  I  re- 
joiced to  have  them,  knowing  that,  if  they  were  carried 
out,  they  would  be  a  great  blessing  to  the  people;  and, 
now  that  a  crisis  had  come,  I  was  not  going  to  stand 
quietly  by  and  see  the  natives  befooled  and  robbed  of  the 
boon  they  had  just  obtained,  by  wicked  men  who  sought 
only  their  own  base  ends. 

I  lost  no  time  in  remonstrating  with  the  chiefs.  The 
sin  and  folly  of  their  conduct  were  strongly  set  before 
them,  with  all  the  advantages  they  would  throw  away, 
and  all  the  evils  they  would  bring  upon  themselves  and 
their  families  and  country  by  persisting  in  it.  It  was  no 
easy  matter,  however,  to  get  them  even  to  reconsider  tlie 
subject.  They  would  make  themselves  look  foolish,  and 
expose  themselves  to  the  reproach  and  ridicule  of  the 
opponents  of  the  laws ;  and  there  was  the  grand  argu- 
ment that  by  enforcing  the  laws  they  would  drive  away 
shipping.  This  we  had  met  by  telling  them  that  the 
absence  of  such  ships  as  would  stay  away  on  that  account 
would  not  really  be  a  thing  to  be  regretted,  and  that 
the  carrying  out  of  the  laws  would  be  an  inducement  for 
ships  of  a  better  class  to  come.  For  some  time  they 
remained  firm,  till  a  discourse  from  Titus  i.  16  brought 
them  to  a  stand.  By  the  blessing  of  God  this  produced  the 
desired  effect.  The  same  evening  on  which  the  discourse 
was  delivered,  parties  belonging  to  the  ship  were  sent  on 
board  to  sleep,  according  to  the  laws.  The  next  morning 
the  captain  came  on  shore  to  complain.  His  complaint 
was  based  on  the  ground  that  the  laM^s  had  been  abrogated. 
A  consultation  was  at  once  held  among  the  chiefs,  and  it 


8o  RAGE  OF  OUR  ADVERSARIES. 

was  determined  there  and  then  to  abide  by  the  laws. 
Great,  of  course,  was  the  mortification  and  wrath  of 
Captain  H.  and  his  aiders  and  abettors.  One  is  ashamed 
that  an  Englishman — a  man  who  would  have  considered 
himself  insulted  had  the  name  of  Christian  been  denied 
him — should  have  acted  such  a  part.  For  such  a  man  to 
set  himself  to  undo  what  the  captain  of  a  British  man-of- 
war  had  just  done  would  have  been  audacious  enough ; 
but  when  it  is  remembered  that  the  object  was  to  have 
liberty  to  spend  the  night  on  sliore  in  revelling  and  wicked- 
ness, one  hardly  knows  how  to  characterise  it.  Yet  the 
gentleman  in  question  had  the  assurance  to  assume  the 
tone  of  an  injured  man.  He  complained  most  bitterly 
that  he  was  obliged  to  suljmit  to  laws  among  naked 
savages,  as  he  termed  the  natives ;  and  he,  and  Ms  accom- 
plices on  shore,  raged  most  furiously.  All  their  indigna- 
tion was  directed  against  us.  They  complained,  remon- 
strated, threatened.  All  was  unavailing,  however.  The 
natives  were  firm,  and  we  had  no  misgivings  as  to  the 
part  we  had  acted.  Hence  we  feared  not  what  man  could 
do  unto  us.  The  end  was  gained.  Attempts  were  made 
again  and  again,  in  subsequent  years,  to  evade  the  laws  or 
set  them  at  nought;  but  this  was  the  first  and  the  last 
time  that  a  deliberate  attempt  was  made  to  get  the  native 
authorities  to  set  them  aside.  From  this  time  onward,  for 
many  years,  they  were  generally  obeyed,  or,  if  trans- 
gressed, the  penalty  was  inflicted ;  and  the  consequences  to 
the  island,  especially  to  Pangopango  and  the  neighbour- 
hood, were  most  happy.  The  captain  of  every  vessel  that 
arrived  heard  of  the  unsuccessful  attempt  of  Captain  H., 
and  was  deterred  from  adopting  a  similar  course. 

We  were  now  approaching  the  close  of  the  second  year 
of  our  missionary  life.  We  left  England  in  ISTovember 
1835,  and  it  was  now  about  the  middle  of  1838.  No 
letters,  either  from  the  Directors  of  the  Society,  or  from 


TRIED  BUT  NOT  DISCOURAGED,  8i 

private  friends,  had  reached  us.  All  the  members  of  our 
mission,  especially  the  ladies,  had  suffered  from  the  non- 
arrival  of  supplies.  But  none  of  these  things  moved  us 
much.  Of  course  we  longed  to  hear  from  those  dear  to  us 
at  home,  and  to  know  what  was  going  on  in  the  civilised 
world ;  but,  being  fully  engaged  in  our  chosen  work,  and 
seeing  that  work  prospering  in  our  hands,  we  were  far  from 
thinking  our  lot  a  hard  one.  Eather  did  we  feel  ourselves 
higldy  favoured,  in  that  to  us  was  "  this  grace  given,  that 
we  should  preach  among  the  Gentiles  the  unsearchable 
riches  of  Christ." 


(82) 


CHAPTEE  XII. 

MISSIONARY  PRATER-MEETING  COMMENCED — FIRST  MAT  MEETING — A  CHURCH 
FORMED — BIOGRAPHICAL  NOTICES. 

On  tlie  2cl  of  April  1838,  our  first  missionary  prayer- 
meeting  was  held.  We  did  not  think  it  advisable  to  com- 
mence such  a  meeting  till  we  had  among  our  people  some 
who  were  themselves  spiritually  alive.  At  this  time  we 
were  satisfied  that  there  were  a  few  such,  and  we  sought 
from  the  earliest  period  of  our  mission  to  teach  those  who 
were  alive  themselves  the  duty  and  pri^dlege  of  imparting 
the  word  of  life  to  others.  Hence  the  setting  up  of  a  mis- 
sionary prayer-meeting. 

And  in  the  following  month  we  took  another  step  in 
the  same  dhection — a  bold  step  under  the  circumstances, 
and  perhaps  a  little  premature.  However  that  may  be, 
it  passed  off  well,  and,  so^  far  as  we  could  judge,  it  was  a 
success. 

In  the  month  of  May  we  had  a  meeting  of  all  the 
Christian  party  from  both  districts — a  "  May  meeting,"  we 
called  it.  It  was  held  on  the  9th  of  May.  A  large  com- 
pany assembled — probably  about  1500.  The  object  we 
had  in  view  was  not  exclusively,  perhaps  not  principally, 
missionary ;  the  people  were  not  yet  sufficiently  advanced 
to  take  an  intelligent  interest  in  missions.  We  aimed  to 
promote  harmony  and  good  feeling  between  the  two  dis- 
tricts into  which  the  island  was  divided.     There  had  been 


FIRST  MISSIONARY  MEETING.  83 

war  between  them  shortly  before  tlie  introduction  of  the 
gospel.  Neither  party  had  been  decidedly  victorious,  and 
a  good  deal  of  jealousy  and  bad  feeling  remained  on  both 
sides.  By  bringing  them  together  for  an  object  entirely 
unpolitical,  we  thought  that  such  feelings  would  be  likely 
to  be  lessened,  if  not  removed.  All  passed  off  happily, 
and  the  end  appeared  to  be  in  a  good  degTee  answered. 
It  need  hardly  be  added  that  the  people  were  not  asked 
to  contribute  anything  to  the  missionary  cause.  The  time 
for  that  had  not  yet  come. 

The  engagements  of  the  day  were  begun  by  a  sermon, 
preached  by  Mr  Barnden,  from  Acts  xiii.  46,  and  in  the 
afternoon  a  meeting  was  held,  at  which  addresses  were 
delivered  by  the  more  advanced  among  the  people.  A  fine 
feebng  appeared  to  be  produced,  and  the  people  returned 
to  their  respective  homes  much  pleased  with  the  proceed- 
ings. Those  from  the  Leone  district  had  been  very  gene- 
rously provided  for  and  kindly  entertained  by  those  of  the 
other,  and  this  tended  in  no  small  degree  to  advance  the 
end  we  had  in  view.  So  passed  the  first  great  religious 
gathering  held  on  Tutuila. 

And  soon  after  this  another  important  step  was  taken — 
a  step  which  forms  an  era  in  the  history  of  our  mission — 
a  church  was  formed.  This  step  was  taken  after  much 
anxious  deliberation.  Feeling  deeply  the  importance  of 
first  movements  in  such  matters,  we  were  very  desirous 
that  those  who  led  the  way  in  making  a  public  profession 
of  attachment  to  Christ  should  be  His  genuine  disciples. 
This  had  led  us  to  wait  and  watch  and  pray  that  we  might 
have  such  evidence  of  this  as  would  enable  us  to  go  forward 
without  misgiving.  Such  evidence  it  was  now  our  privilege 
to  have  in  the  case  of  three  individuals.  These  were  Pomare, 
Pita*  (Peter),  a  very  interesting  young  man,  who  attached 

*  Throughout  the  whole  of  Polynesia  the  vowels  are  sounded  as  in  the 
Italian  and  other  Continental  languages. 


84  FORMA  TION  OF  A  CHURCH. 

himself  to  us  soon  after  our  settlement  on  the  island,  and 
Fauvasa,  a  man  belonging  to  a  village  not  very  distant 
from  Pangopango,  but  separated  from  it  by  one  of  the  worst 
among  the  many  bad  roads  on  Tutuila.  In  reference  to  these, 
we  felt  satisfied  that  they  had  passed  from  death  unto  life, 
and  so  the  way  was  clear  to  take  the  step  in  question. 

Accordingly,  on  the  morning  of  Friday,  June  the  29  th, 
I  met  these  three  in  my  study,  and,  after  much  converse 
with  reference  to  the  important  step  we  were  about  to 
take,  and  earnest  prayer  for  the  Divine  guidance  and 
blessing,  we  agreed  to  unite  together  for  the  observance 
of  the  laws  and  ordinances  which  Christ  has  given  and 
instituted,  as  these  are  recorded  in  the  Old  and  New  Tes- 
taments. On  the  Sabbath  following,  July  the  1st,  1838, 
the  ordinance  of  the  Lord's  Supper  was  observed.  It  was 
a  season  of  deep  and  hallowed  interest.  Many  hearts  were 
moved  on  that  memorable  occasion  besides  those  of  the  little 
company  who  showed  forth  the  Lord's  death.  We  had,  I 
trust,  the  presence  and  blessing  of  the  Master  of  the  feast, 
and  many  felt  that  it  was  good  to  be  there.  . 

A  brief  glance  at  the  subsequent  history  of  the  little 
company,  who  were  the  first-fruits  to  Christ  from  Tutuila, 
will  not  be  out  of  place  here.  To  me  it  is  a  thought  some- 
what tinged  with  sadness,  that  they  have  all  passed  away ; 
yet,  in  reality,  it  is  matter  for  joy  rather  than  grief  that 
they  are,  as  I  trust,  safe  in  the  better  land.  On  the  second 
missionary  voyage  of  the  "  Camden,"  in  1840,  in  charge  of 
Mr  Heath,  Pomare  and  Fauvasa  went  as  evangelists  to 
the  dark  regions  to  the  west  of  Samoa.  Pomare  was  left 
on  the  island  of  Tanna,  at  Port  Eesolution.  On  the  former 
voyage,  Mr  Williams  had  landed  two  teachers  at  that  place. 
Pomare  and  Salamca,  a  native  of  Upolu,  were  added  by 
Mr  Heath,  with  the  view  of  strengthening  the  mission. 
They  endured  many  privations,  and  passed  through  many 
trials,  on   that   dark,   inhospitable   shore,  and  when   the 


BIOGRAPHICAL  NOTICES.  85 

island  was  again  visited  in  April  1841,  we  found  that 
two  out  of  the  four,  one  of  whom  was  Pomare,  had  finished 
their  course.  They  had  suffered  much  from  sickness  and 
want  of  proper  nourishment.  It  was  a  sad  disappoint- 
ment to  us  to  find  our  friend,  wlio  had  so  lately  left  us  in 
circumstances  so  full  of  interest  and  promise,  gone ;  and, 
to  his  widow,  wlio  had  come  with  us  in  the  expectation  of 
joining  him  in  the  service  of  Christ,  it  was  a  stunning 
blow.  She  bore  it  nobly,  however,  as  did  also  the  widow 
of  Salamea,  wlio  had  come  with  the  same  expectation. 
Looked  at  from  a  human  point  of  view,  Pomare  made  a 
foolish  choice — threw  himself  away.  There  was  no  man 
of  higher  rank  on  Tutuila  than  he,  and,  if  he  had  remained 
at  home,  he  might  have  succeeded  his  father,  Maunga,  after 
a  while ;  but  his  heart  was  set  on  better  things  than  rank 
and  position  among  men.  He  was  virtually  a  martyr  in 
the  cause  of  Christ,  and  he  and  Salamea  deserve  a  place 
among  the  martyrs  of  Polynesia.  From  all  I  could  learn, 
he  was  patient  and  resigned  amid  his  trials  and  sufferings  ; 
but  it  was  not  possible  to  learn  much,  as  his  fellow- 
labourers  were  all  ill  at  the  time  of  his  death.  There  was 
not  one  to  help  another,  or  to  take  any  particular  note  of 
what  occurred.  It  seems  a  marvel  that  any  of  them  sur- 
vived ;  but,  even  among  the  savage  Tannese,  He  who  has 
all  hearts  in  His  hand  inclined  some  to  pity  the  strangers 
and  show  them  kindness,  and  to  that  probably  it  was 
owing,  instrumentally,  that  we  found  two  out  of  the  four, 
Lalolangi  and  Mose,  alive. 

Fauvasa  and  Pangisa,  another  teacher  from  Tutuila  who 
went  on  the  same  voyage,  were  designed  for  New  Caledonia. 
An  attempt  was  made  to  locate  them  at  Port  St  Vincents, 
on  that  island,  which  proved  unsuccessful ;  and  as  it  was 
the  last  place  at  which  the  vessel  was  to  caU  on  that 
voyage,  they  were  brought  back  to  their  native  land. 
Fauvasa  lived  only  a  few  years  after  this.     He  was  use- 


86  A  LIFE  OF  USEFULNESS. 

fully  employed  as  a  teacher  as  long  as  his  health  allowed, 
and  he  maintained  a  consistent  course  to  the  last. 

Pita,  after  being  employed  a  few  years  as  a  teacher  in  his 
native  land,  went  to  the  New  Hebrides,  and  was  located 
at  Port  Eesolution,  where  his  brother-in-law  '"  Pomare  had 
been  stationed  during  his  brief  term  of  service  in  the 
mission  field.  Here  for  several  years  he  and  his  courageous 
wife  nobly  braved  the  dangers  and  contended  with  the 
difficulties  of  that  land  of  darkness  and  the  shadow  of 
death.  Again  and  again  they  were  in  imminent  peril,  and 
at  length  they  were  obliged  to  escape  for  their  lives.  They 
fled  to  the  neighbouring  island  of  Aneiteum,  where  they 
found  the  state  of  things  almost  as  critical  as  it  was  on 
Tanna.  Pita,  however,  was  not  a  man  to  be  easily  daunted, 
and  the  event  proved  that  he  had  been  brought  there  for 
an  important  end.  Soon  after  their  arrival  matters  came  to 
a  crisis.  In  1846  the  Eev.  H.  Nisbet  from  Samoa  and  the 
Eev.  W.  Gill  from  Earotonga  visited  the  island.  The  teachers 
had  entirely  lost  heart,  and  they  proposed  to  the  deputa- 
tion that  the  mission  should  be  given  up ;  and  it  was  only 
saved  by  Pita's  volunteering  to  hold  on  along  with  another 
who  was  also  willing  to  remain.  He  and  his  faithful  wife 
remained  on  Aneiteum  many  years,  and  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  time  they  were  associated  with  Mr  and  Mrs 
Inglis,  by  whom  they  were  held  in  high  esteem.  Advanc- 
ing years,  together  with  family  circumstances,  led  to  their 
returning  to  their  native  isle  about  1860.  There  Pita 
continued  to  labour  faithfully  and  zealously  till  1870.  In 
the  month  of  March  of  that  year  he  was  seized  with  an 
illness  which  in  a  short  time  proved  fatal.  Mr  Powell, 
who  had  been  connected  with  him  for  a  time  on  Aneiteum, 
and  with  whom  he  was  associated  on  Tutuila  from  the  time 
of  his  return  till  his  death,  bears  a  delightful  testimony  to 
the  Christian  consistency  which  marked  the  closing  years 

*  Poiuare  was  married  to  a  sister  of  Pita. 


A  HAPPY  DEATH.  87 

of  his  life,  and  to  its  beautiful  and  triumphant  termination 
when  the  goal  was  reached,  and  he  passed  into  the  presence 
of  Him  whom  he  had  so  ardently  loved  and  so  faithfully- 
served.  A  noble  man  was  Pita  in  the  genuine  sense — a 
large-hearted,  generous  soul,  scorning  everything  low  and 
mean,  and  adorning  the  doctrine  of  God  his  Saviour  in 
everything  great  and  small. 

A  very  prominent  trait  of  his  religious  character  from 
the  first  was  love  to  Christ,  and  Mr  Powell  bears  testimony 
that  towards  the  close  of  his  life,  and  especially  at  the  last, 
this  shone  out  with  peculiar  brilliancy — like  the  setting  sun 
as  he  passes  away  to  irradiate  other  lands.  The  Christian 
reader  will  understand  how  the  writer  loves  to  dwell  on 
Pita's  memory,  and  with  what  joy  he  anticipates  re-union 
with  him  and  others  in  the  undying  world.  Besides  being 
the  engaging  character  we  have  described,  he  was  the  first 
on  Tutuila  who  gave  decisive  evidence  of  conversion  to 
God.  His  widow,  so  far  as  I  know,  is  still  alive  (1875). 
She  is  a  woman  of  a  similar  stamp  to  himself.  She  was 
the  wife  of  his  youth,  and  shared  with  him  all  the  dangers 
and  trials  of  his  eventful  life.  She  felt  the  death  of  her 
husband  very  deeply,  but  seemed  to  bow  with  submission 
to  the  will  of  God,  while  she  looks  forward  with  joyful 
anticipation  to  re-union  after  a  little  while.  So  much  for 
the  first  three  worthies  whom  Tutuila  furnished.  The  fact 
that  they  were  the  first,  and  that  they  were  all  more  or  less 
men  of  mark,  must  be  the  writer's  apology,  if  an  apology  is 
needed,  for  dwelling  so  long  on  their  history 

At  the  time  the  church  was  formed,  there  was  another 
young  man  in  a  very  interesting  state  of  mind.  He  had 
taken  to  himself  the  awkward  name  of  "  Ship,"  a  name  that 
no  Polynesian  can  possibly  pronounce.  In  the  mouth  of 
a  Polynesian  it  becomes  Sipi — pronounced  Seepee — which 
sounds  more  Like  slice,])  than  s/aJ9.  It  is  a  rule  which 
knows  no  exception  in  Eastern  Polynesia  that  two  con- 


88  A  STRIKING  CONVERSION. 

sonants  cannot  stand  together,  and  that  every  word  and 
every  syllable  must  end  in  a  vowel ;  hence  foreign  names 
necessarily  undergo  great  changes  in  passing  into  the  lan- 
guage. 

But  to  return  to  our  young  friend  Sipi.  He  was  a  ser- 
vant in  our  family  at  the  time  to  which  we  refer.  For 
months  he  had  been  under  religious  concern.  He  had 
been  aroused  by  a  discourse  on  the  parable  of  the  sower, 
and  had  been  labouring  with  all  his  might  to  find  peace  by 
his  own  efforts.  It  is  deeply  interesting  to  note  how  uni- 
form are  the  workings  and  developments  of  human  nature. 
Poor  Sipi  laboured  as  zealously  to  work  out  a  righteousness 
for  himself,  as  convinced  sinners  are  w^ont  to  do  in  Chris- 
tian lands,  and,  of  course,  Avith  as  little  success.  He'  was 
constantly  failing — giving  way  to  a  hasty  temper,  or  in  some 
other  way  yielding  to  temptation — and  every  fresh  failure 
plunged  him  into  deeper  distress.  At  length  he  was  en- 
abled to  understand  "God's  way  of  peace,"  and  to  cast 
himself,  a  helpless  sinner,  just  as  he  was,  upon  the  finished 
work  of  Christ ;  and  in  so  doing  he  found  the  rest  he  sought. 
As  I  came  out  of  my  bedroom  one  morning,  I  was  surprised 
by  finding  him  waiting  for  me,  and  still  more  so  when  he 
seized  my  hand  with  such  a  loving  grasp,  and  told  me  with. 
deep  feeling  that  he  had  found  what  he  had  so  long  been 
seeking — that  his  burden  was  gone,  and  he  had  found  peace. 
He  was  naturally  a  bashful,  retiring  lad.  Hence  I  was  the 
more  surprised  at  his  conduct  at  this  time,  and  the  more 
satisfied  that  his  professions  were  genuine.  And  in  his 
case,  like  that  of  the  first  three,  his  subsequent  course 
proved  that  we  were  not  mistaken.  After  a  few  years  of 
consistent  conduct  in  his  native  land,  he  went  as  a  teacher 
to  the  island  of  Vatc,  in  the  New  Hebrides.  There,  amid 
the  privations  and  trials  incident  to  a  residence  among  a 
savage  people  and  in  an  unhealthy  climate,  he  spent  several 
years,  maintaining  a  consistent  and  exemplary  course.    The 


A  NATIVE  NOTION.  89 

manner  of  his  death  was  never  satisfactorily  ascertained. 
He  had  been  suffering  from  disease,  and  during  the  pro- 
gress of  his  illness  he  became  delirious ;  and  it  was  sup- 
posed that  on  that  account  the  natives  put  an  end  to  his 
life,  influenced  by  a  notion  found  among  them  that  the 
insane  are  possessed.  However  it  may  have  been  with  re- 
ference to  Sipi,  I  doubt  not  that  to  him  to  die  was  gain. 
Traces  of  him  and  his  labours  may  yet  be  found  on  earth, 
or,  if  not,  his  memorial  is  on  high.  "  Blessed  are  the  dead 
that  die  in  the  Lord  from  henceforth ;  Yea,  saith  the  Spirit, 
that  they  may  rest  from  their  labours ;  and  their  works  do 
follow  them." 


(90) 


CHAPTEE  XIII. 

THE  PAST  AND  PRESENT — CONTINUED  PROGRESS — ADAPTATION  OF  PLANS — 
NATIVE  HELPERS — FIRST  NEWS  FROM  HOME — ARRIVAL  OF  THE  "  CAMDEN  " 
—  STIRRING  INCIDENTS. 

Yrom  the  formation  of  the  church  dates  a  new  era  in  the 
history  of  the  Tutuila  mission.  The  time  that  preceded 
and  tliat  whicli  followed  had  their  respective  characteristics 
distinctly  marked — closely  related  indeed,  yet  clearly  dis- 
tinguishable. Clearing,  tilling,  sowing,  marked  the  one — 
it  was  our  spring  time ;  or,  to  change  the  figure,  it  was  our 
"  night  of  toil," — brief,  it  is  true,  but  still  a  time  of  consider- 
able trial ;  a  time  of  conflict — "  fightings  without  and  fears 
within."  But  enough  has  been  said  on  the  subject  of  diffi- 
culties and  trials.  Let  us  address  ourselves  to  the  more 
pleasing  task  of  tracing  the  progress  of  the  brighter  era  that 
now  opened  upon  us,  noticing  occasionally,  as  we  proceed, 
matters  of  more  general  interest  and  wider  range  than 
those  which  belong  to  our  own  immediate  sphere. 

The  happy  change  that  was  now  in  progress  led  to  some 
alterations  in  our  plans  and  modes  of  operation.  Hitherto 
I  had  spent  much  time  in  itinerating  on  week-days,  and 
on  Sabbaths  I  had  been  accustomed,  during  the  interval  of 
the  morning  and  afternoon  services,  to  go  to  the  villages 
that  were  within  a  manageable  distance,  generally  con- 
ducting two  short  services  in  addition  to  those  at  home. 
Now  this  was  no  longer  necessary,  as  the  bulk  of  the 
people  belonging  to  the  villages  I  had  been  accustomed  to 


NATIVE  HELPERS.  91 

visit  preferred,  coming  to  me  to  waiting  for  me  to  go  t(j 
them.  Hence,  I  was  able  to  spend  my  Sabbaths  chiefly 
at  home,  and  to  concentrate  my  energies  on  two  services. 
By  this  arrangement  all  concerned  were  gainers.  The 
services  were,  of  course,  more  effectively  conducted ;  hence 
the  natives  derived  more  benefit  from  tliem,  and  my  work 
was  much  lightened. 

From  this  time,  also,  I  had  very  effective  help  from  the 
native  brethren — Pita,  Pomare,  and  Fauvasa.  Hitherto, 
being  almost  single-handed  as  regards  preacliing,  only  a 
small  part  of  the  district  could  be  supplied  with  that, 
except  at  distant  intervals.  Now,  all  the  villages  where 
Christianity  had  obtained  a  footing  were  visited  almost 
weekly  by  our  native  preachers,  and  the  number  of  these 
was  soon  so  much  increased,  that  we  were  able  to  send  a 
regular  supply  every  week  to  each  village.  The  preachers 
were,  of  course,  but  poorly  qualified  for  their  work  as 
regards  mental  furniture,  but  they  were  a  long  way  ahead 
of  most  of  their  hearers ;  and  what  they  lacked  in  know- 
ledge was  in  a  measure  compensated  by  the  w^armth  and 
zeal  with  which  they  exhibited  and  pressed  upon  the  ac- 
ceptance of  their  congregations  their  newly-found  treasure. 

In  all  the  warmth  and  freshness  of  their  "  first  love " 
they  went  forth,  beseeching  those  whom  they  addressed 
to  be  reconciled  to  God,  and  being  themselves  living 
epistles  of  Christ  which  all  might  know  and  read.  To 
have  at  this  early  stage  of  our  labours  a  few  cases  of  so 
decided  a  type  as  were  theirs,  was  an  unspeakable  mercy. 
The  influence  they  exerted  on  the  subsequent  history  of 
the  mission  it  would  not  be  easy  to  overrate.  I  did  my 
best,  of  course,  to  furnish  them  with  matter  for  their 
addresses.  We  always  tried  so  to  arrange  that  each  might 
hear  one  sermon  on  the  Sabbath,  and  I  met  them  weekly, 
as  already  stated,  for  instruction,  and  we  met  also  for 
prayer  and  conversation  at  not  distant  intervals. 


92  FIRST  LETTERS  FROM  ENGLAND. 

The  plan  of  spending  my  Sabbaths  at  home  wrought 
well.  The  congregations  continued  to  increase,  and  grow- 
ing interest  and  attention  were  manifested,  and  a  decided 
case  of  conviction  and  conversion  now  and  again  cheered 
our  hearts,  and  stimulated  us  to  greater  fervency  in  prayer, 
and  greater  longing  after  the  showers  of  blessing,  of  wliich 
we  regarded  these  first  drops  as  the  earnests  and  precursors. 

I  continued  my  visits  to  the  heathen  at  intervals  of  two 
or  three  months.  The  leaven  was  spreading  slowly  but 
surely  among  them  ;  there  was  no  general  movement,  but 
they  were  dropping  over  by  ones  and  twos  into  the  ranks 
of  the  professedly  Christian. 

On  the  5th  of  August,  the  ordinance  of  the  Lord's 
Supper  was  again  observed;  and  in  the  beginning  of 
October,  a  fourth  member  was  added,  and  in  November,  a 
fifth.  We  had  not  yet  received  Sipi.  Perhaps  at  tliis 
time  we  erred  on  the  side  of  over-caution.  It  was  the 
safer  extreme,  however,  and  did  little,  if  any  injury; 
though,  could  we  have  looked  into  the  future  history  of 
such  men  as  Sipi,  we  should  not  have  detained  them, 
as  we  did,  on  the  threshold. 

On  the  11th  of  September  of  this  year,  1838,  we  received 
our  first  letters  from  England  !  We  sailed  from  home  on 
the  7th  of  November  1835.  Wliat  a  tale  does  this  tell  as 
to  the  changes  that  have  taken  place,  and  the  progress 
that  has  been  made  during  the  intervening  years !  Now 
European  news  reach  Samoa,  and  most  of  the  principal 
groups  of  the  Pacific  where  missionaries  or  foreign 
settlers  have  found  then-  way,  in  about  three  months — 
more  or  less.  How  we  were  delighted  to  hear  from  loved 
ones  at  home  will  be  more  easily  conceived  than  described. 
"  As  cold  water  to  a  thirsty  soul,  so  is  good  news  from  afar 
country."     So  emphatically  we  felt  at  this  time. 

But  something  much  more  exciting,  and  of  vastly 
greater  moment  than  the  arrival  of  letters  from  relatives 


ARRIVAL  OF  THE  "  CAMDEN."  93 

and  private  friends,  was  at  hand — a  missionary  ship  was 
nearing  our  shores.     Of  this  we  were  ignorant.     We  were 
not  aware  even  that  a  vessel  had  been  obtained ;  hence  the 
arrival  of  the  "  Camden "  took  us  completely  by  surprise. 
It  was  a  beautiful,  sparkling  morning  towards  the  close  of 
November.     I  had  gone  to  the  morning  school  as  usual, 
and  was  engaged  among  the  classes,  when  I  was  startled 
by  an  announcement  that  a  vessel  with  two  masts  was  at 
anchor  in  the  harbour.     The  only  vessels  we  were  accus- 
tomed to  see  in  those  days  were  whalers,  and  they,  with 
rare  exceptions,  had   three   masts.      The  first  announce- 
ment was  speedily  foUowed  by  a  second,  which  effectually 
aroused  us  all,  and  brought  our  school  to  an  abrupt  ter- 
mination for  that  morning — Mr  Williams  and  a  company 
of  missionaries  are  on  board  the  ship !     Of  course  I  was 
soon  alongside  of  the  vessel,  and,  sure  enough,  there  was 
Mr  Williams  with  a  band  of  missionaries  such  as  had  not 
come  forth  to  these  seas  since  the  "Duff"  led  the  way. 
To  see  Mr  Williams   and  the  young  missionaries  and  a 
mission-ship   was  a  joyous  sight  ;   but  what   struck  me 
most  was  finding  Captain  Morgan  in  command!      Since 
he  left  us,  about  two  years  before,  to  pursue  his  whaling 
voyage,  we  had  heard  nothing  of  him.     How  changed  the 
circumstances   now !      Wonder   and  gratitude  filled   our 
hearts ;  and,  after  a  short  time  spent  in  mutual  congratu- 
lations and  inquiries,  we  united  on  the  deck  of  the  "  Cam- 
den "  in  pouring  out  our  hearts  in  prayer  and  thanksgiving 
to  "  Him  from  whom  all  blessings  flow\"     Very  delightful 
was  the  intercourse  we  had  with  Mr  Williams  and  the 
young   friends   during   their  brief  stay  with  us.      They 
arrived  on  Friday,  November  the  16th,  1838,  and  left  on  the 
Monday  following.     Thus  we  had  a  Sabbath  together,  and 
what  a  day  of  hallowed  interest  was  that  Sabbath !     Our 
native  congregations  were  unusually  large,  Mr  Barnden 
having  come  on  from  Leone  with  a  number  of  his  people ; 


94  A  MEMORABLE  SABBA  TH. 

and  in  the  morning  we  had  the  whole  party  from  the 
"  Camden."  There  were  Mr  and  Mrs  Williams,  Mr  and 
Mrs  Day,  Mr  and  Mrs  Eoyle,  Mr  and  Mrs  William  Gill, 
Mr  and  Mrs  Charter,  Mr  and  Mrs  Stair,  Mr  and  Mrs 
Stevens,  Mr  and  Mrs  Buchanan,  Mr  ThomjDson,  and  Mr 
and  Mrs  John  Williams,  junr.  The  presence  of  such  a 
company  was,  of  course,  a  new  thing  on  Tutuila,  and 
awakened  a  profound  interest  among  the  natives,  while  it 
deeply  stirred  our  own  hearts.  At  the  morning  service, 
Mr  Barnden  preached  to  the  natives.  The  sermon  was 
followed  by  the  observance  of  the  Lord's  Supper.  At  the 
close,  Mr  Williams  gave  an  address  in  English,  which 
added  interest  to  the  occasion.  It  was  the  first  time  that 
most  of  us  had  met  in  such  circumstances,  and,  as  is  so 
often  the  case  when  companies  of  missionaries  meet,  it 
was  the  last. 

In  the  afternoon  the  natives  again  assembled,  and  were 
addressed  by  a  number  of  the  newly-arrived  brethren, 
through  an  interpreter,  of  course,  and  were  much  interested. 

In  the  evening  we  all,  including  Mrs  JMurray,  with  our 
infant  son,  about  ten  days  old,  went  on  board  the  "  Cam- 
den," to  be  ready  for  an  early  start  on  the  following 
morning  for  Upolu.  The  day  was  closed  by  a  service. 
Mr  Williams  was  the  preacher.  His  subject  was  the  love 
of  Christ — a  subject  altogether  appropriate  to  the  occasion. 
What  could  have  been  more  so  ?  For  what  had  brought 
together  those  there  assembled,  and  what  was  the  bond  of 
union  among  us,  and  what  was  the  motive  power  that  was 
to  move  and  regulate  our  future  life  ? — What,  if  we  were 
true  men  and  women,  but  that  same  higli  and  holy  prin- 
ciple ?  So  some  of  us,  at  least,  felt,  on  that  evening  of 
haUowed  interest,  as  Mr  Williams  expatiated  with  evident 
sympathy  and  enlargement  on  his  lofty  theme.  He  gave 
a  beautiful  (quotation  from  the  late  saintly  Dr  Waugh, 
which  made  an  abiding  impression  on  my  mind,  though  I 


FUTURE  RE-UNION.  95 

cannot  recall  the  words.  It  was  the  last  time  I  had  the 
privilege  of  hearing  Mr  Williams,  In  little  more  than 
twelve  months  from  that  time,  his  testimony  was  finished 
and  his  work  done,  and  he  had  joined  the  noble  army  of 
martyrs  in  that  world  where  love  reigns  and  bliss  is  full. 
Not  a  few  of  those  who  united  in  that  service  have  since 
followed  him  there.  God  grant  that  all  who  remain  may, 
in  due  time,  be  gathered  in,  and  renew  their  acquaintance 
and  fellowship  before  the  throne  of  God  and  the  Lamb ! 


(96) 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

REMARKS  ON  THE  ARRIVAL  OF  THE  "  CAMDEN  " — VISIT  TO  UPOLU — JOURNEY 
TO  MANONO  WITH  MR  WILLIAMS — DEATH  OF  MRS  HEATH — REMARKS — 
MEETING  FOR  BUSINESS  AT  UPOLU — RETURN  TO  TUTUILA — INCIDENTS  OP 
THE  VOYAGE — DEATH  OF  MR  BARNDEN, 

If  the  event  recorded  in  a  previous  chapter  formed  an  era 
in  the  history  of  the  Tutuila  mission,  the  arrival  of  the 
"  Camden "  stiU  more  emphatically  was  an  era  in  the 
history  of  the  Samoan  mission  as  a  whole.  From  this 
time  we  were  no  longer  cut  off,  as  we  liad  .been,  from  com- 
munication with  our  brethren  of  other  missions,  and  from 
the  civilised  world ;  we  no  longer  suffered  much  from  the 
non-arrival  of  supplies;  and,  most  important  of  all,  we 
were  no  longer  confined  in  our  operations  to  our  own 
single  group.  Events  of  mighty  moment  to  the  interests 
of  the  cause  of  Christ  throughout  the  Pacific  were  the 
procuring  of  the  "  Camden,"  and  her  safe  arrival  at  the 
scene  of  her  destined  operations.  None  of  her  successors 
has  eclipsed  the  glory  of  her  brief  and  eventful  career. 
By  far  the  greater  part  of  the  ground  beyond  Samoa,  on 
which  we  and  others,  who  have  entered  into  our  labours, 
have  been  at  work  during  the  last  thirty  years,  was  taken 
possession  of  by  her.  So,  in  hailing  her  advent  to  our 
shores,  we  were  only  acting  as  the  event  justified.  And 
besides  the  work  directly  done  by  the  "  Camden,"  did  not 
the  employment  of  a  mission  ship  by  the  London  Mis- 
sionary Society  lead  to  the  same  course  being  adopted  by 


DEA  TH  OF  MRS  HE  A  TH. 


97 


the  Wesleyans,  and  the  Episcopalians,  and  the  Presby- 
terians, and  the  American  Board  ?  Hence  the  "  Triton," 
the  two  "  John  Wesleys,"  the  "  Southern  Cross,"  and  the 
"  Morning  Star,"  all  stand  closely  related  to  our  old  "  Cam- 
den "  and  her  successors. 

On  the  morning  of  Monday,  the  29th  of  November,  we 
sailed  from  Tutuila,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  following 
day  we  reached  Upolu,  and  anchored  in  the  harbour  of 
Apia.  The  exciting  news  of  the  arrival  of  the  mission 
ship  flew  from  station  to  station  throughout  our  mission, 
awakening  an  interest  similar  to  that  occasioned  by  the 
arrival  of  the  "  Dunnottar  Castle." 

On  the  day  of  our  arrival,  ]\Ir  Williams  left  Apia  for 
Manono  on  important  business,  and  I  had  the  privilege 
of  accompanying  him  and  enjoying  his  society  during  the 
long  journey.  Neither  of  us  was  aware  of  the  distance 
we  had  to  travel.  It  is  not  less  than  thirty  miles  from 
Apia  to  Manono,  so  we  had  a  weary  journey  in  our  native 
canoe,  and  did  not  reach  our  destination  till  about  9  p.m. 
We  came  upon  our  brother  Heath  all  unexpected,  and 
startled  him  in  his  sad  loneliness.  Poor  man  !  a  grievous 
calamity  had  befallen  him.  His  wife,  a  devoted,  excellent 
woman,  had  been  taken  from  him  a  few  months  before 
the  arrival  of  the  vessel.  Very  mingled,  of  course,  were 
his  feelings,  and  so  were  ours,  when  we  met.  Some  time 
passed  before  he  was  able  to  speak.  The  sight  of  us,  and 
the  announcement  of  the  arrival  of  the  mission  ship,  seemed 
vividly  to  recall  the  painful  scenes  through  which  he  had  so 
recently  passed ;  and  the  bitter  pangs  of  the  hour  of  sejDa- 
ration  seemed  renewed.  How  Avoidd  she  have  hailed  our 
visit,  and  the  arrival  of  the  mission  ship,  had  she  been 
alive  !  The  longed-for  letters  from  home,  of  the  arrival  of 
which  he  and  she  had  so  often  talked — how  they  would 
have  been  prized  !  But  she  is  gone,  and  with  trembling 
hand  and  tearful  eye  he  must  open  and  read  the  letters 

G 


98  CHARACTER  OF  MRS  HEATH. 

alone,  and  rejoice  or  weep  over  tlie  tidings  they  bring, 
alone.  Alas !  what  a  blank  had  her  removal  made,  and 
how  sad  and  desolate  did  everything  appear  !  We  sympa- 
thised very  deeply  with  our  afflicted  brother,  but  how  little 
can  human  sympathy  avail  in  such  a  case  ! 

Mr  and  Mrs  Heath  were  both  considerably  advanced  in 
life  when  they  came  to  the  mission  field.  They  had  been 
married  a  number  of  years,  and  had  no  family.  They 
were  much  attached  to  each  other,  and  it  seemed  as 
though  the  one  were  a  necessity  to  the  other.  Hence  the 
deep  distress  in  which  we  found  our  brother. 

Mrs  Heath  never  enjoyed  very  good  health  in  Samoa, 
and  in  May  1838  she  died  of  consumption.  Probably 
she  laboured  beyond  her  strength  among  the  native  women 
and  girls,  and  she,  in  common  with  others,  suffered  for 
want  of  proper  nourishment.  On  these  accounts  the 
progress  of  her  disease  may  have  been  accelerated ;  but  her 
work  was  done,  her  warfare  was  accomplished,  and  the 
time  had  come  for  victory  and  repose.  Near  the  mission 
house  at  Apai,  on  the  island  of  Manono,  lie  her  earthly 
remains.  The  spot  is  marked  by  a  mound  of  stone  and 
lime,  overshadowed  by  surrounding  trees,  but  no  memorial 
stone  tells  the  visitor  who  and  what  she  was.  But  she 
has  an  imperishable  memorial.  She  did  what  she  could, 
and  though  her  plans  were  cut  short  ere  the  execution  of 
them  was  well  begun,  yet  were  her  desires  and  purposes 
accepted  even  as  if  she  had  lived  to  carry  them  into  effect, 
and  she  shall  have  a  full  reward. 

The  business  that  took  Mr  Williams  to  Manono  so 
early  was  unportant  in  its  bearings  on  the  future  history 
of  our  mission.  He  was  the  bearer  of  a  letter  from  the 
Board  of  Management  of  Wesleyan  missions  in  London  to 
their  missionaries  who  were  then  in  Samoa.  Of  these,  there 
were  two  at  this  time,  and  they  were  both  on  Manono. 
The  letter  brought  by  Mr  Williams  informed  them  of  an 


DIVISION  OF  WORK.  99 

agreement  entered  into  in  London  between  tlie  Wesleyan 
Board  and  the  Directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society, 
to  the  effect  that  the  Samoan  group  should  he  left  to  the 
exclusive  occupation  of  the  agents  of  the  London  Mis- 
sionary Society,  while  Tonga,  Fiji,  and  other  places  should 
be  left  to  the  Wesleyans,  and  requesting  those  then  in 
Samoa  to  withdraw.  In  compliance  with  the  instruc- 
tions from  London,  the  Wesleyan  missionaries  and  their 
Tongan  assistants  did  leave  Samoa  at  the  time  referred  to, 
and  rejoined  their  brethren  of  the  Tongan  mission.  Into 
the  history  of  their  subsequent  proceedings  we  shall  not 
enter.  To  do  so  would  be  neither  interesting  nor  edifying 
to  most  readers. 

After  finishing  our  business  at  Manono,  we  returned 
to  Apia,  where  all  the  members  of  the  mission  were  soon 
collected.  Business  was  attended  to,  and  got  through  with 
all  practicable  despatch.  We  were  too  large  a  company  to 
remain  long  together.  The  newly-arrived  party  consisted 
of  nineteen  persons,  and  our  mission  numbered  ten. 

Three  of  the  newly-arrived  were  appointed  to  our 
mission,  viz.,  Mr  Day,  Mr  Buchanan,  and  Mr  Stair.  Mr 
Stair  was  a  printer,  and  came  furnished  with  a  printing- 
press  and  everything  needful  for  the  exercise  of  his  calling. 
His  arrival  was  hailed  by  us  with  especial  gladness,  as 
opening  to  us  the  prospect  of  pouring  forth  light  with- 
out stint  or  limit  throughout  our  own  group  and  others 
beyond. 

Arrangements  connected  with  the  settlement  of  the 
newly-arrived  brethren  being  completed,  and  all  other 
necessary  public  business  finished,  we,  after  enjoying 
much  pleasant  intercourse  with  our  fellow-labourers,  pre- 
pared to  return  to  Tutuila  in  the  "  Camden."  Mr  Williams 
went  with  us,  intending  to  extend  the  voyage  to  IVIanua, 
which  had  not  yet  been  visited  by  a  European  missionary. 
The  vessel  had  discharged  the  greater  part  of  her  cargo, 


loo  A  STORM  AT  SEA. 

and  so  was  not  in  a  fit  state  to  go  to  sea ;  but  as  the  dis- 
tances were  so  short,  it  was  not  considered  much  of  a  risk 
to  venture  upon  a  voyage  which  was  expected  to  occupy- 
only  a  few  days.  Hence  no  additional  ballast  was  taken 
in,  and  we  sailed  with  the  vessel  quite  out  of  trim,  and  for 
this  we  paid  dearly.  We  were  from  Tuesday  till  Sabbath 
afternoon  in  going  a  distance  of  ninety  miles.  We  had  a 
rough,  disagreeable  voyage  all  the  way,  but  we  got  along 
tolerably  well  till  we  reached  Leone.  There  Mr  Barnden 
was  landed  on  Friday,  and,  as  Pangopango  is  only  about 
twelve  miles  farther  on,  we  hoped  to  get  there  in  a  few 
hours.  Instead  of  that,  however,  it  was  forty-eight  hours 
before  w^e  reached  our  destination,  and  during  the  interval 
we  had  a  very  heavy  blow.  The  "  Camden  "  had  encoun- 
tered nothing  equal  to  it  since  she  had  left  England.  We 
had  a  frightful  tossing  about,  and  as  we  were  young  sailors 
in  those  days,  and  suffered  much  from  sea-sickness,  we  were 
in  a  trying  plight.  Especially  was  this  the  case  with  Mrs 
Murray.  Indeed,  I  do  not  know  how  we  should  have  got 
along  but  for  Mr  Williams'  kind  attentions  ;  but  he,  gene- 
rous, fatherly  man,  was  as  much  at  home  nursing  a  baby  or 
attending  upon  an  invaKd  as  in  building  a  ship. 

The  length  of  time  occupied  in  our  voyage  to  Tutuila 
led  to  the  abandonment  of  the  intended  visit  to  Manua, 
and  on  the  Wednesday  after  our  arrival,  the  "Camden" 
sailed  on  her  return  voyage  to  Upolu,  taking  with  her  our 
feUow-labourer,  Mr  Barnden.  He  had  been  appointed  by 
the  mission  to  leave  his  station  on  Tutitila  for  a  time,  that 
he  might  assist  in  the  building  of  a  printing-office  on 
Upolu.  Alas!  it  soon  appeared  that  he  was  called  to 
Upolu  for  a  very  different  purpose  from  that  designed  by 
man.  After  a  few  weeks  we  were  startled  and  shocked  by 
a  report  brought  by  a  party  of  natives  from  Upolu,  that 
Mr  Barnden  was  dead !  At  first  we  were  inclined  to 
doubt  the  truth  of  the  report,  but  it  was  speedily  confirmed 


DEATH  OF  MR  BARNDEN.  loi 

by  letters  from  Upolu.  Mr  Barnden  was  indeed  gone.  Mr 
Barnden,  the  most  likely  man  of  our  whole  party,  in  as 
far  as  appearances  went,  to  have  a  long  term  of  service, 
had  finished  his  course,  and  that  in  a  most  melancholy 
manner — he  had  been  droAivTied ! 

On  the  31st  of  December  1838,  he  went  in  company 
with  some  others  to  bathe  in  a  stream — it  is  hardly  entitled 
to  be  called  a  river — three  or  four  minutes'  walk  from  the 
mission  premises  at  Apia.  The  stream  was  flooded  at  the 
time,  and  though  ordinarily  it  is  so  inconsiderable  a  thing, 
it  sends  down  a  large  body  of  water  at  such  times,  and  the 
current  runs  very  strong.  Mr  Barnden  could  not  swim, 
and  how  he  came  to  plunge  into  the  river  as  he  did  seems 
utterly  unaccountable.  He  was  carried  away  by  the  cur- 
rent, and  swept  into  a  pool  of  considerable  depth,  where 
he  sank.  The  natives  were  speedily  on  the  spot,  and  the 
body  was  got  out  of  the  water  at  once,  but  life  was  extinct. 
He  was  gone — he  who  had  escaped  the  perils  of  the  sea  was 
drowned  in  an  insignificant  stream,  in  which,  I  suppose, 
no  adult,  at  all  events,  was  ever  drowned  either  before  or 
since. 

This  mysterious  and  melancholy  event  was  much  felt 
by  us  all.  The  time  at  wliich  it  occurred  was  remarkable. 
The  arrival  of  the  mission  ship  with  ]\Ir  Williams,  the 
father  of  our  mission,  and  reinforcements  for  our  own  and 
other  missions ;  the  arrival  of  the  printer,  printing-press, 
&c.,  had  caused  great  joy,  and  perhaps  undidy  elated  us ; 
and  here  was  something  fitted  to  temper  and  moderate  our 
views  and  feelings,  and  teach  us  to  look  away  from  men 
and  means  to  the  living  God,  on  whose  help  and  blessing 
all  depends. 

Mr  Barnden's  untimely  end — untimely  as  it  seemed  to 
us — was  very  melancholy  in  some  of  its  aspects.  Like  his 
fellow-labourers,  he  had  left  his  native  land,  and  come  forth 
to  these  far-off  regions,  hoping  to  spend  a  useful  life  in  his 


I02  AIR  BARNDEN'S  WORK. 

Master's  service.  He  was  full  of  large  plans,  and  very- 
sanguine  as  to  what  he  was  to  accomplish ;  and  had  his  life 
been  spared,  all,  by  the  help  and  blessing  of  God,  might 
have  been  accomplished.  As  it  was,  however,  his  brief 
day  closed  before  his  work  was  well  begun.  He  was  but 
a  few  months  at  his  own  station.  During  the  iirst  six 
months  we  were  on  Tutuila,  he  lived  with  us  at  Pango- 
pango.  Then,  after  being  a  short  time  at  Leone,  he 
exchanged  stations  with  us  for  about  four  months ;  and 
again,  after  a  short  interval,  he  went  to  Upolu  to  assist  Mr 
Mills  in  finishing  his  dwelling-house,  and  he  had  been 
back  but  a  short  time  when  the  "  Camden  "  arrived.  Thus, 
owing  to  his  being  able  to  help  his  brethren  in  work  for 
which  he  was  better  qualified  than  they,  and  his  being 
kindly  disposed  to  do  so,  and,  perhaps,  partly  owing  to  the 
fact  that  he  was  unmarried,  he  never  got  properly  settled. 
He  had  come  out  single,  intending  after  a  few  years  to 
return  to  England  to  bring  to  his  distant  home  a  lady  to 
whom  he  was  engaged.  Perhaps  it  was  well  he  did  come 
out  single ;  though,  as  it  appears  to  us,  had  it  been  other- 
wise, the  calamity  that  put  a  period  to  his  life  and  labours 
might  have  been  averted. 

In  view  of  such  events  as  his  removal,  the  mind  can 
only  find  repose  in  looking  beyond  this  transitory  state, 
and  remembering  that  perfect  wisdom  and  perfect  love 
regulate  all  the  dealings  of  the  Supreme  Disposer  with  His 
people.  All  that  concerns  them  in  life,  He  orders  and 
regulates  in  a  manner  that  will  commend  itself  to  their 
own  grateful  and  adoring  approval  when  the  light  of 
eternity  shall  be  shed  on  the  mysteries  of  time;  and 
"I'recious  in  the  sight  of  the  Lord  is  the  death  of  His 
saints." 


(  I03  ) 


CHAPTEE  XV. 

ARRANGEMENTS  TO  MEET  OUR  ALTERED  CIRCUMSTANCES— NATIVE  AGENCY — 
STATE  OF  THE  LEONE  DISTRICT — CHAPEL-OPENING  AT  LEONE — THE 
FRENCH  MASSACRE — ENCOURAGING  STATE  OP  THINGS  IN  THE  PANGO- 
PANGO  DISTRICT — DEATH  OF  MAUNGA — VISIT  OF  THE  "  CAMDEN." 

After  the  death  of  Mr  Barnden,  our  first  care  was  to  make 
such  arrangements  as  the  cii'cumstances  admitted  of,  with 
a  view  to  embrace  as  fully  as  possible  the  whole  island, 
which,  by  that  event,  was  thrown  upon  our  hands.  The 
island,  as  already  stated,  is  not  large,  and  the  population 
is  under  4000 ;  but  a  great  part  of  it  is  very  difficult  of 
access,  and  the  people  are  widely  scattered.  There  are 
over  thirty  villages.  Tims  it  could  only  be  embraced,  and 
the  population  brought  under  Christian  instruction  and 
influence,  by  the  employment  of  a  numerous  staff  of  native 
teachers.  Hence  the  necessity  that  every  available  man 
should  be  turned  to  account ;  and  a  prime  object  was  to 
get  such  as  well  furnished  as  possible,  that  they  might  be 
able  to  instruct  others. 

The  Leone  district,  though  in  some  respects  less  advanced 
than  the  other,  was  yet  in  a  deeply  interesting  state.  No 
decided  case  of  conversion  had  yet  occurred,  but  the  desire 
for  instruction  was  as  great  as  in  the  other.  The  teachers 
of  both  districts  assembled  weekly  at  Pangopango,  and  my 
labours  were  divided  between  the  two  stations.  At  the 
time  referred  to,  the  state  of  things  was  full  of  promise 
throughout  the  whole  of  the  professedly  Christian  part  of  the 


I04  OPENING  OF  A  CHAPEL. 

island.  There  was  manifest  and  rapid  progress.  Light  was 
spreading,  and  the  truth  was  taking  hold  of  many  hearts. 
The  number  of  candidates  for  baptism  and  church  member- 
ship had  risen  to  about  three  hundred,  and  the  church  was 
slowly  increasing.  In  March  of  this  year,  1839,  the  number 
of  members  was  eight — seven  men  and  one  woman. 

Tuesday,  March  the  6th,  1839,  was  an  important  day  in 
the  Leone  district.  On  that  day  a  chapel,  which  had  been 
recently  completed,  was  opened.  It  was  a  noble  building, 
considering  the  circumstances  of  the  people.  It  was  ninety 
feet  in  length  by  forty  in  breadth,  and  finished  in  the 
first  style  of  Samoan  architecture.  A  very  large  company 
assembled  on  the  occasion — -many  more  than  the  house 
could  hold.  Very  liberal  provision  was  made  by  the 
people  of  Leone  for  the  entertainment  of  strangers,  and 
the  services  appeared  to  produce  a  happy  influence. 

About  twenty  foreigners  came  together  from  different 
parts  of  the  island,  and  with  these  a  service  was  held  in 
English  at  tlidr  own  request — a  pleasing  circumstance, 
indicating  that  a  change  had  come  over  them  as  well  as 
the  natives  since  earlier  days. 

During  a  tour  which  I  made  of  the  whole  island  about 
this  time,  the  place  at  which  the  famous  French  mas- 
sacre occurred  in  1787  was  identified.  It  was  at  a  village 
named  Asu,  about  two  miles  and  a  half  or  three  miles  to 
the  west  of  Fangasa,  which  at  the  time  of  our  arrival  bore 
the  name  of  Massacre  Bay,  from  its  having  been,  as  was 
su]3i30sed,  the  scene  of  the  affray.  I  found  only  one 
individual  who  remembered  having  been  present  at  the 
fight.  It  occurred  about  fifty  years  before  the  time  of  my 
visit,  and  my  informant  seemed  as  if  he  might  be  verging 
upon  seventy  years  of  age,  so  he  must  have  been  approach- 
ing manhood  at  tlie  time.  He  complained  that  it  was  a 
very  long  time  ago,  and  seemed  afraid  lest  he  should  give 
me  incorrect  information;   still   he   ajopeared  to  have  a 


THE  FRENCH  .U ASS  ACRE.  105 

distinct  remeniLrauce  of  the  leading  circumstances.     The 
substance  of  the  account  he  gave  me  was  as  follows  : — 

Tlie  attack  was  not  made  by  natives  of  Tutuila,  but 
by  a  party  from  Upolu  who  were  at  Tutuila  on  a  visit. 
When  the  ships  arrived,  they  were  at  a  village  near  Leone, 
about  ten  or  twelve  miles  from  Asu.  The  news  of  the 
arrival  of  the  strange  visitors  soon  spread  far  and  wide, 
and  among  those  who  hastened  to  see  the  wonderful  ships, 
and  the  equally  wonderful  men,  were  the  party  from 
Upolu,  They  went  first  to  the  ships,  which  were  standing 
off  and  on  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Asu.  M.  de  Langie, 
the  fellow-commander  of  La  Perouse,  with  some  of  the 
scientific  gentlemen  and  a  number  of  seamen,  had  gone  on 
shore.  To  obtain  water  seems  to  have  been  a  chief,  if  not 
tlie  chief  errand,  which  induced  them  to  go  in  with  the 
boats  and  land.  They  had  taken  casks  on  shore,  but 
whether  anything  had  been  done  towards  filling  them  does 
not  appear.  Nothing  untoward  seems  to  have  occurred 
till  the  Upolu  people  made  their  appearance.  They,  as 
abeady  mentioned,  called  at  the  ships.  A  lad  in  one 
of  the  canoes,  a  native  of  Tutuila,  but  identified  with  the 
Upolu  party  for  the  time  being,  attempted,  or  at  least  was 
supposed  by  the  French  to  have  made  an  attempt,  to  steal 
something  from  one  of  the  vessels.  My  informant  could 
not  tell  me  what  it  was.  The  would-be  or  real  thief  was 
fired  upon,  and  wounded  in  the  shoulder.  The  wound  did 
not  prove  immediately  fatal,  but  the  natives  were  enraged ; 
and,  leaving  the  vessels,  they  went  straight  to  the  sliore, 
and  attacked  the  party  they  found  there.  It  was  low 
water  at  the  time,  and  the  boats  were  aground ;  hence  the 
French  were  very  much  in  the  power  of  their  assailants, 
who  fell  upon  them  in  regular  native  fashion.  Stones 
were  freely  used,  and  it  is  probable  they  had  clubs  in  their 
canoes,  which  would  be  in  requisition,  no  doubt ;  and  the 
melancholy  issue  was,  that  eleven   of  the   French  were 


io6  TREATMENT  OF  THE  DEAD. 

killed,  among  whom  was  M.  de  Langle,  and  some  of  tlie 
scientific  gentlemen.  This  appears  from  La  Perouse's  nar- 
rative. My  informant  either  could  not,  or  did  not  choose 
to  tell  me  the  number  of  natives  who  were  killed. 

As  soon  as  the  French  got  their  boats  afloat,  they  re- 
treated, leaving  the  dead  on  the  beach.  The  natives  of 
Upolu  stripped  the  bodies,  and  probably  dreading  the  con- 
sequences of  what  they  had  done,  they  made  off  at  once  for 
their  own  island.  This  accounts  for  the  remark  of  La  Perouse 
that  he  saw  at  Upolu  on  the  following  day  persons  whom 
he  had  seen  at  Tutuila,  and  also  for  the  fact  that  we  were 
not  able  to  obtain  on  Tutuila  anything  that  had  belonged 
to  the  murdered  persons.  All  was  carried  off — the  only 
thing  I  succeeded  in  getting,  that  had  been  obtained  by 
the  natives  from  the  expedition,  was  a  few  beads.  They  are 
common  glass  beads,  of  a  light,  pale  colour,  very  old- 
fashioned,  and  have  every  appearance  of  being  genuine. 

The  Tutuilans,  according  to  my  informant,  disapproved 
of  the  attack,  and  took  no  part  in  it.  After  the  affray  they 
fled  to  the  bush,  where  they  remained  till  after  the  vessels 
had  left  the  island,  when  they  came  down,  collected  the 
bodies  of  the  slain,  covered  them  with  native  cloth,  and 
buried  them  as  they  were  accustomed  to  bury  their  own 
chiefs.  No  monument  of  any  sort  marks  the  spot  where 
they  lie,  nor  can  it  be  very  exactly  identified.  One  won- 
ders that  the  French  nation,  which  has  shown  great  interest 
.in  the  fate  of  the  expedition  and  its  chief  commander, 
should  have  taken  no  notice  of  M.  de  Langle  and  those 
who  fell  with  him  on  Tutuila. 

It  was  well  that  La  Perouse  followed  the  promptings  of 
his  own  humane  mind,  and  was  guided  by  his  own  judg- 
ment, instead  of  yielding  to  the  wishes  of  those  about  him 
to  infiict  punishment  upon  the  Tutuilans.  Had  he  done 
so,  the  chastisement  intended  for  the  murderers  of  his 
countrymen  would  have  fallen  upon  parties  who  were  not 


HUMANE  CONDUCT  OF  LA  PEROUSE.  107 

only  innocent  of  the  crime,  but  who  had  done  what  they 
could  to  prevent  its  commission ;  and  who  had  consistently 
followed  that  up  by  showing  respect  for  the  dead,  and 
doing  all  for  them  of  which  the  circumstances  admitted. 
And  what  a  lesson  does  this  read  to  all  on  whom  is  de- 
volved the  responsible  trust  of  inquiring  into  disputes  and 
([uarrels  between  civilised  and  savage  men,  and  avenging 
the  real  or  supposed  wrongs  of  the  former  !  To  ascertain 
where  the  right  lies  in  such  cases  is  an  exceedingly  difficult 
tliinfT.  Hence  the  great  need  of  caution.  It  is  far  better  to 
do  as  La  PerDuse  did — leave  an  outrage  unpunished — than 
fall  upon  the  wrong  parties,  and  make  the  innocent  suffer 
for  the  guilty.  And  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the 
origin  of  quarrels  between  civilised  and  savage  men  is  quite 
as  likely  to  be  found  in  the  conduct  of  the  former  as  the 
latter.  And  indeed,  so  far  as  my  experience  goes,  and  I 
may  add,  what  is  of  much  more  weight  than  the  experience 
of  any  single  individual,  that  the  whole  history  of  the 
intercourse  of  civilised  with  uncivilised  men  looks  strongly 
in  this  direction,  and  seems  to  warrant  the  conclusion  that, 
in  the  great  majority  of  cases,  full  and  impartial  investiga- 
tion, with  the  aid  of  competent  interpreters,  would  show 
the  white  man  to  be  in  the  wrong.  And  when  punishment 
is  either  wrongly  inflicted,  or  with  undue  severity,  besides 
tlie  wrong  done,  the  end  is  not  likely  to  be  answered.  The 
minds  of  those  who  have  been  unjustly  or  cruelly  treated 
are  embittered,  and  an  opportunity  is  sought  of  avenging 
their  wrongs,  and  their  vengeance  will  almost  certainly  fall 
upon  innocent  parties. 

But  to  return  to  my  narrative.  Indications  of  the 
presence  and  power  of  God  were  becoming  more  and  more 
marked  in  the  Pangopango  district.  Our  church-meeting 
on  Saturday,  April  the  6th,  and  the  morning  service  on 
the  following  day,  were  remarkable  seasons — "  times  of 
refreshing  from  the  presence  of  the  Lord." 


I  o3  DEA  TH  A  ND  CHA  RACTER  OF  MA  UNGA . 

Towards  the  close  of  that  month  the  island  was  visited 
Ijy  an  epidemic — a  kind  of  influenza.  It  spread  over  the 
whole  island  ;  I  know  not  that  a  single  individual  escaped. 
In  the  great  majority  of  cases  the  attacks  were  slight. 
There  were  about  thirty  deaths.  Those  who  died  were  chiefly 
elderly  people.  Among  those  was  Maunga,  the  most 
influential  man  on  the  island.  He  was  an  old  man,  over 
seventy  years  of  age.  In  addition  to  being  a  great  chief, 
he  had  been  a  noted  warrior  in  his  day,  and  to  this  it  was 
partly  owing  that  he  was  so  much  respected.  Moreover, 
he  had  acted  an  important  part  in  connection  with  the 
introduction  of  the  gospel  to  the  island.  He  had  embraced 
Christianity  as  taught  by  Norval,  and  so  was  prepared  to 
welcome  us  when  we  arrived ;  and  he  was  our  steadfast 
friend  all  along,  though  it  is  doubtful  whether  he  ever  had 
any  correct  conception  of  our  message.  He  had  a  great 
idea  of  keeping  straight  with  all  parties,  and  did  not  at  aU 
approve  of  the  zeal  of  myself  and  his  son  Pomare  in  using 
efforts  to  induce  the  heathen  to  abandon  paganism  and 
place  themselves  under  Christian  instruction.  "  Leave  it 
with  themselves,"  he  was  wont  to  say.  All  right  so  far, 
but  not  as  he  meant  it.  With  him  the  idea  was,  Use  no 
means  to  induce  them  to  embrace  Christianity,  but  just 
leave  them  alone,  and  don't  concern  yourselves  about  them. 
He  thought  liis  son  Pomare  altogether  too  strict  and  parti- 
cular, and  though  great  allowance  must  be  made  for  a  man 
who  had  reached  the  verge  of  threescore  years  and  ten 
before  he  heard  the  gospel,  yet  he  was  far  from  affording 
the  satisfactory  evidence  one  could  have  wished  of  having 
felt  the  power  of  the  truth.  Pomare's  judgment  was  that 
"  He  died  a  bad  death  ;  he  died  in  his  sins  ;  "  but  he  was 
a  young  man,  in  the  glow  and  warmth  of  his  first  love,  and 
may  have  judged  harshly.  "  The  Lord  seeth  not  as  man 
seeth,"  and  we  are  not  called  to  pronounce  a  judgment 
on  those  who  have  gone  to  His  tribunal.     Maunga  was 


LAST  MEETIA'G   WITH  MR   WILLIAMS.         109 

succeeded  by  an  adopted  son,  a  very  indifferent  character, 
who  had  hitherto  borne  the  name  of  Maivunia*  but  who 
now  had  conferred  upon  him  the  name  of  ]\Iaunga,  agree- 
ably to  Samoan  custom,  the  same  name  being  borne  liy 
successive  chiefs  from  genei'ation  to  generation. 

While  the  epidemic  was  at  its  height,  we  were  cheered 
by  a  visit  of  the  "Camden."  She  had  been  to  the 
Tahitian  group  and  the  Hervey  Islands,  and  was  now 
returning  to  Upolu  with  Messrs  Williams  and  Pritchard 
on  board.  They  arrived  on  the  28th  of  April,  and  left  on 
the  1st  of  May.  A  very  touching  interest  attaches  to  that 
visit.  It  was  the  last  time  we  saw  Mr  Williams.  After 
being  a  few  months  with  his  family  on  Upolu,  he  set  out 
on  that  memorable  voyage  from  which  he  never  returned. 

*  Manuma  is  the  name  of  a  beautiful  bird  of  the  parrot  species  found 
in  Samoa. 


(  no 


CHAPTEE  XVI. 

TEAVA  SENT  TO  OUR  AID — HIS   HISTORY,  CHARACTER,  AND   USEFULNESS — MAY 

MEETINGS — POMARE'S    SPEECH FIRST    DECIDEDLY    CHRISTIAN    DEATH — • 

FIRST  ADMISSIONS  TO  THE  CHURCH   FROM  THE  LEONE  DISTRICT — BIOGRA- 
PHICAL   SKETCH TIMES    OF   REFRESHING — INTERESTING    OCCURRENCE — 

LOVING  DARKNESS  RATHER  THAN  LIGHT  — REMARKABLE  CONVERSION. 

In  the  month  of  May  1838,  Teava,  the  Earotongan  teacher 
mentioned  in  an  earlier  chapter,  was  sent  to  our  aid.  He 
was  stationed  at  Leone,  and  continued  for  many  years  to 
labour  faithfully  and  usefuUy  there  and  elsewhere  on 
Tutuila.  Among  all  the  native  brethren  from  the  Tahi- 
tian  and  Hervey  Islands  who  took  part  in  the  evangelisa- 
tion of  Samoa  in  early  days,  I  do  not  know  that  there  is 
one  more  deserving  of  esteem  than  Teava.  He  was  ap- 
pointed to  the  office  of  an  evangelist  to  the  heathen  as  far 
back  as  1832.  In  October  of  that  year,  he  left  his  native 
land  in  the  far-famed  "  Messenger  of  Peace  "  for  Samoa, 
and  was  placed  by  Mr  Williams  on  the  island  of  Manono.* 
He  remained  there  till  our  arrival  in  1836,  when  he  was 
removed  to  PalealHi,  a  large  and  populous  district  on 
Upolu,  and  from  Falealili  he  was  sent  to  Tutuila  in  con- 
sequence of  the  death  of  Mr  Barnden.  His  arrival  was 
specially  opportune,  and  the  assistance  he  rendered  me  in 
many  w^ays  was  of  inestimable  value.  He  was  from  Mr 
Buzacott's  district  on  Earotonga,  and  by  him  he  had  been 

*  See  Williams'  Missionary  Enterprises,  p.  410. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  NOTICE  OF  TEAVA.  iii 

trained  for  Lis  work.  He  was  a  man  of  superior  natural 
abilities,  and  he  had  turned  to  good  account  the  advantages 
he  had  enjoyed  at  Rarotonga ;  and  his  knowledge  of  the 
Sanioan  language  was  accurate  and  extensive,  equal,  if  not 
superior,  to  that  of  any  teacher  whom  I  have  known  from 
another  group.  He  was  not  a  young  man  when  he  came 
to  Samoa.  He  remained  there  for  about  tliirty  years,  till 
increasing  infirmities  rendered  a  return  to  his  native  land 
desirable.  There  I  saw  him  in  1869,  and,  so  far  as  I 
know,  lie  lives  still  (June  1875) — a  venerable  patriarch, 
adorning  the  doctrine  of  God  his  Saviour,  and  calmly 
waiting  his  dismissal  to  the  land  of  rest.  It  was  a  high 
gratification  to  us  to  meet  him  and  his  faithfid  and  affec- 
tionate wife  once  more  on  earth.  We  had  kept  up  cor- 
respondence at  intervals,  from  the  time  of  his  leaving 
Samoa;  but  it  was  more  than  we  expected  to  meet  them 
again  on  tliis  side  heaven. 

Deeply  interesting  and  not  a  little  affecting  to  us  are 
the  recollections  connected  with  the  years  during  which 
we  were  associated  with  Teava  on  Tutuila.  Very  bright 
days  alternated  with  very  dark  ones  in  the  course  of  those 
eventful  years,  and  through  all,  Teava  and  his  kind  wife 
Avere  our  steadfast  friends  and  helpers,  rejoicing  with  us 
in  our  joys,  and  sympathising  with  us  in  our  sorrows.  If 
our  lives  are  spared  for  a  few  years,  we  shall  hear  of  their 
having  passed  on  before  us  to  the  abiding  home,  and  we 
shall  soon  follow,  and  then  our  joy  will  be  full. 

Soon  after  the  arrival  of  Teava,  we  had  our  annual 
missionary  gathering — our  "  May  Meeting."  The  time 
had  not  yet  come  when  it  was  thought  advisable  to  ask 
the  people  to  contribute  to  the  funds  of  the  Society.  They 
had  no  money,  and  little  or  no  property  that  was  available 
for  such  a  purpose.  However,  this  was  the  last  occasion 
on  which  we  did  nothinsr  but  talk.     The  meetings  were 


1 1 2  MISS  ION  A  R  Y  MEE  TINGS. 

held  at  Leone.  A  great  crowd  of  people  assembled  from 
all  parts  of  the  island— all  the  professedly  Christian  part 
of  the  community  who  could  leave  their  homes.  There 
must  have  heen  from  1800  to  2000  people  present.  In 
the  morning,  I  preached  to  as  many  as  could  get  within 
hearing  from  Eom.  x.  13-15 ;  and  at  noon  I  preached  in 
English  to  the  foreigners  who  had  come  together  from 
different  parts  of  the  island.  In  the  afternoon  a  meeting 
was  held,  at  which  spirited  addresses  were  delivered  hy 
Teava  and  some  of  the  more  advanced  of  our  native 
converts.  In  the  course  of  the  meeting  it  was  resolved 
that,  if  God  should  spare  us  another  year,  there  should  be 
something  done  as  well  as  said.  But  the  most  touching 
incident  of  the  day,  and  the  one  which  made  the  deepest 
impression,  was  an  ofter  of  personal  service  for  missionary 
work.  In  the  course  of  his  speech,  Pomare,  with  great 
solemnity  and  evident  sincerity,  declared  his  readiness  to 
give  himself  to  the  work  of  God  in  heathen  lands,  should 
an  opportunity  be  afforded  him  of  so  doing.  After  a  few 
months,  as  the  reader  will  remember,  such  an  opportunity 
was  afforded ;  and  Pomare's  sincerity  was  put  to  the  test 
after  he  had  had  time  and  opportunity  fuUy  to  weigh  the 
matter  and  count  the  cost  of  the  sacrifices  which  he  had 
professed  his  readiness  to  make. 

From  this  time  forth  we  had  steady  and  uninterrupted 
progress.  Light  and  life  found  their  way  from  mind  to 
mind  and  from  heart  to  heart,  and  there  were  indications, 
becoming  more  and  more  distinct,  of  the  times  of  refresh- 
ing which  were  now  not  very  distant. 

On  the  1st  of  June  1839,  we  had  an  addition  of  five  to 
the  church,  some  of  whom  had  been  notorious  for  wicked- 
ness in  the  days  of  heathenism,  but  by  the  powerful 
influence  of  the  truth  of  God,  applied  by  tlie  Holy  Spirit, 
they  had  been  subdued  and  brought  to  the  Saviour's  feet, 


A  SABBATH-SCHOOL  COMMENCED.  113 

and  in  their  case  tlie  words  of  Watts  were  strikint;]y 
exemplified : — 

"  Lions  and  beasts  of  savage  name 
Put  on  the  nature  of  the  Lamb." 

Such  cases,  of  course,  excited  more  attention  than  tliose  of 
a  less  marked  character,  and  produced  a  deeper  impression 
upon  observers.  The  more  intelligent  of  these  could  not 
but  infer  tliat  that  which  produced  such  effects  must  be 
deserving  of  attention. 

On  the  following  day,  June  the  2d,  we  commenced  a 
Sabbath-school.  On  the  second  Sabbath  after  the  school 
was  commenced,  there  were  one  hundred  and  thirty  present. 
About  this  time  Mrs  Murray  began  a  select  female  class, 
which,  by  the  blessing  of  God,  tended  much  to  deepen  the 
convictions  of  those  who  were  under  concern.  At  the 
close  of  the  second  meeting  which  she  held,  several  slipped 
•  [uietly  away  into  the  bush  to  pray,  instead  of  going  direct 
to  their  homes,  or  loitering  about  and  engaging  in  general 
conversation. 

It  was  about  this  time,  also,  that  the  first  decidedly 
liopeful  death  occurred, — that  is,  so  far  as  came  to  our 
knowledge.  The  case  referred  to  was  that  of  a  woman 
of  Nuuuli,  wdiere  Pomare  was  teacher.  She  had  not  been 
admitted  to  the  church,  but  she  seemed  to  be  taught  of 
(lod  and  to  have  found  the  Saviour.  She  bore  a  clear  and 
decided  testimony  to  the  fact  that  He  was  her  only  hope, 
and  that,  because  of  her  hope  in  Him,  she  did  not  fear 
death.  "  Jesus,  where  art  Thou  T' — were  her  last  words, 
as  if  she  were  longing  to  go  to  Him  and  be  with  Him. 
Her  death  occasioned  much  surprise,  and  produced  a  very 
favourable  impression ;  those  who  witnessed  it  declaring 
that  they  had  never  before  seen  such  a  death. 

On  the  19th  of  June  another  church-meeting  was  held, 

n 


114  FIRST  ADMISSIONS  FROM  LEONE. 

and  four  additional  members  were  received;  and  at  the 
close  of  the  month  we  had  a  further  addition  of  seven,  five 
of  wliom  were  from  the  Leone  district — the  first  who 
from  that  division  of  the  island  were  numbered  with  the 
visible  Church.  Four  out  of  the  five  proved  true  and  use- 
ful men,  and  one  of  them,  Taulani,  was  a  man  of  more  than 
ordinary  mark.  He  was  one  of  the  two  from  the  Leone 
district  who  accompanied  us  to  Upolu  on  our  first  arrival. 
He  at  once  took  a  foremost  place  among  our  native  teachers, 
and  for  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  century  he  maintained 
an  unblemished  reputation,  and  laboured  diligently  and 
usefully  in  his  Master's  work.  Great  was  the  service 
rendered  by  him  to  the  cause  of  Christ  during  his  long 
course,  and  calm  and  peaceful  was  his  end.  I  knew 
Taulani  very  intimately  for  a  long  course  of  years,  and  I 
have  not  known  very  many  men  equal  to  him  either  in 
the  mission  field  or  elsewhere ;  and  he  was  approaching 
middle-life  before  he  knew  the  gospel.  Well  may  we  glorify 
God  in  him  ! 

Our  church- meetings  and  ordinance  Sabbaths  were 
seasons  of  special  interest  at  this  time.  Such  emphati- 
cally was  the  meeting  at  which  those  just  referred  to  were 
admitted,  and  the  Sabbath  that  followed,  June  the  29th, 
1839.  Eleven  new  members  sat  down  with  us  at  the 
Lord's  table.  The  little  company  of  communicants  were 
full  of  life  and  warmth.  They  had  but  just  been  "  called 
out  of  darkness  into  His  marvellous  light."  Nothing  had 
occurred  to  chill  their  ardour  or  damp  their  zeal.  Their 
inward  foes  were  as  yet  restrained  or  overborne,  and  the 
conflict  with  external  foes  was  in  the  future.  They  were 
"  like  ransomed  Israel  on  the  shore  " — Egypt  and  the  Eed 
Sea  behind  them,  and  the  wilderness  lost  sight  of,  while 
the  land  of  promise  seemed  within  easy  reach.  Love  and 
gratitude  to  their  great  Deliverer,  with  anticipations  of 
being  with  Him  in  His  kingdom  and  glory,   seemed  for 


A  MEMORABLE  SABBATH.  115 

the  time  being  to  fill  their  minds.  Ah  !  these  were  bright 
days  to  ourselves  as  weE  as  to  the  people  ! — such  days  as 
we  have  not  seen  since,  and  do  not  expect  to  see  again  till 
we  join  the  worshippers  within  the  veil : — 

''  What  peaceful  hours  we  then  enjoyed  ! 
How  sweet  their  memory  still !  " 

The  consolation  is,  that  brighter  and  better  things  are 
yet  in  store  for  us,  of  which  these  were  but  the  earnests 
and  foretastes. 

Around  our  little  company  of  communicants  was  a  con- 
gregation numbering  some  four  or  five  hundred,  many  of 
whom  were  anxious  inquirers  after  salvation^  and  longing 
for  the  time  when  they  should  find  rest  in  Jesus,  and  be 
numbered  with  His  professed  followers,  and  be  sharers  in 
their  privileges ;  and  some  of  whom,  in  all  probability,  were 
already  rejoicing  in  Christ,  and  so  were  in  full  sympathy 
with  what  was  going  on.  I  preached  from  Eevelations  iii. 
21,  after  which  we  observed  the  ordinance  of  the  Lord's 
Supper,  and  so  passed  this  memorable  service,  during  which 
precious  drops  of  blessing  had  descended  upon  us — earnests 
of  the  plenteous  rain  which  was  ere  long  to  come  down 
"  as  rain  upon  the  mown  grass,  and  as  showers  that  water 
the  earth." 

About  this  time  an  event  occurred,  small  in  itself,  but 
deserving  of  a  passing  notice.  The  village  of  Fangaitua,  the 
stronghold  of  heathenism  on  the  island,  had  hitherto  re- 
sisted all  overtures  to  embrace  Christianity,  and  refused  to 
aUow  a  teacher  to  live  among  them.  Now  a  small  party, 
chiejiy  women,  had  abandoned  heathenism,  and  avowed 
themselves  Christians,  and  they  wished  to  have  a  teacher 
to  live  among  them  and  instruct  them.  To  this  the  autho- 
rities were  violently  opposed,  but  the  little  band  of  Chris- 
tians were  firm,  and  determined  to  carry  their  point,  and, 
by  the  help  of  God,  they  succeeded.     They  had  recourse 


ii6  AN  IMPORTANT  END  GAINED. 

to  a  plan  which  led  the  heathen  to  yield.  If  they  were 
not  allowed  to  have  their  teacher  and  enjoy  their  religion, 
they  determined  to  leave  the  village,  and  go  and  seek  a 
home  for  themselves  elsewhere,  where  they  should  have 

"  Freedom  to  worship  Gorl." 

This  settled  the  business.  The  heathen,  rather  than  have 
their  village  broken  up,  withdrew  their  opposition,  and 
allowed  a  teacher  to  settle  among  them,  and  carry  on  his 
work  without  molestation.  This  was  a  triumph  which 
filled  our  hearts  with  gratitude  to  God,  and  exerted  an  im- 
portant influence  for  good  on  the  subsequent  history  of  the 
mission. 

The  state  of  things  was  now  so  changed,  that  the  masters 
and  crews  of  vessels  visiting  the  island  could  not  indulge 
in  profligacy,  as  formerly,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  har- 
bour. This  led  some  of  the  more  determinedly  wicked  to 
shun  that,  and  go  to  the  dark  corners  of  the  island,  where 
they  could  find  a  congenial  state  of  things.  There  is  no 
other  harbour,  properly  so  called,  belonging  to  the  island, 
except  that  of  Pangopango ;  but  anchorage  can  be  found 
in  open  bays  and  roadsteads,  and  the  persons  in  question 
chose  to  risk  their  vessels  rather  than  submit  to  the  re- 
straints which  the  altered  state  of  things  at  Pangopango 
imposed. 

"  They  that  do  evil  hate  the  light."  Many  striking  veri- 
fications did  we  have  of  these  words  in  the  early  days  of 
our  missionary  life.  Wicked  visitors  and  wicked  residents 
retreated  away  into  the  further  darkness  as  the  light  spread, 
thus  unmistakably  showing  in  what  direction  their  prefer- 
ence lay.  Of  course,  to  be  shunned  by  these  children  of  the 
ni"ht  was  the  reverse  of  a  calamity  to  us  and  to  the  natives 
around  us,  but  we  could  not  but  feel  grief  and  shame  on 
their  account.  Happily,  our  visitors  were  not  all  of  the 
stamp  of  those  referred  to.     Now  and  again,  to  our  great 


A  REMARKABLE  CASE. 


117 


joy,  a  vessel  M'oiild  drop  in  upon  us  witli  a  decidedly 
pious  captain,  who  would  employ  all  his  influence  to 
strengthen  our  hands,  and  encourage  the  natives  to  hold 
fast  their  integrity,  and  remain  steadfast  to  their  profes- 
sion. 

In  tlie  second  week  of  August  we  went  to  Leone,  and 


LEUNK    hAV    AND    VILLAOE. 


spent  a  few  weeks.  The  state  of  things  there  was  now 
very  similar  to  what  it  was  at  Pangopango.  During  our 
stay,  a  Sabbath-school  was  commenced,  as  at  Pangopango, 
and  visits  made  to  other  villages  in  the  district,  and  various 
means  used  with  a  view  to  deepen  and  extend  the  work 
that  was  in  progress. 

I  was  particularly  struck  with  the  case  of  an  old  woman, 
at  a  village  named  Yaitongi,  as  showing,  in  a  very  clear 


ii8  A  REMARKABLE  CASE. 

manner,  the  finger  of  God — the  presence  of  a  Divine  Teacher. 
She  was  old  and  feeble,  unable  to  leave  the  couch  on 
which  she  lay;  yet,  to  my  astonishment,  on  conversing 
with  her,  I  found  that  she  had  clear  and  definite  views  of 
the  way  of  salvation,  even  as  if  she  had  been  brought  up 
in  a  Christian  country,  and  instructed  in  the  truths  of  the 
gospel  from  her  youth,  whereas  she  had  grown  old  amid 
the  darkness  of  heathenism,  and  it  was  Httle  beyond  the 
dim  twilight  now.  Yet  into  her  mind  had  shone  a  light  so 
clear  as  vividly  to  discover  to  her  her  own  sinfulness  and 
helplessness,  and  reveal  to  her  the  Saviour  and  His 
work  as  the  only  and  all-sufficient  ground  on  which  sinful 
man  can  rest.  She  declared  to  me  that  such  was  her  per- 
suasion of  the  power  and  willingness  of  Christ  to  save,  that 
she  had  no  fear  of  death ;  but  that,  on  the  contrary,  she 
desired  to  depart  and  enter  upon  the  good  life  that  lasts 
for  ever.  How  evident  is  the  hand  of  God  in  a  case  like 
this  !  What  power  or  wisdom  of  man  could .  have  pene- 
trated and  scattered  the  dense  'darkness  that  had  been 
accumiilating  for  threescore  years  and  ten  ?  What  power 
less  than  Divine  could  have  subdued  and  melted  into  con- 
trition that  hard  heart,  so  long  filled  with  the  debasing 
pollutions  of  heathenism  ?  No ;  as  it  was  in  primitive 
times  so  it  is  still :  "  The  gospel  is  the  power  of  God  unto 
salvation  to  every  one  that  believeth."  All  things  are  pos- 
sible with  God. 


(  119) 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

CONTINUED  PROGRESS — THE  AMERICAN  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION — ARRIVAL  OP 
MR  AND  MRS  PRATT — ADMISSIONS  TO  THE  CHURCH — DEEPENING  AND 
EXTENSION  OF  THE  WORK  — FIRST  DECIDED  INDICATIONS  OF  ITS  PASSING 
into'  THE  REVIVAL  FORM — REMOVAL  OF  DOUBTS  AS  TO  THE  GENUINENESS 
OP  THE  WORK — REVIVALS  IN  SCOTLAND, 

The  reader  will  have  observed  that  from  a  very  early 
period  of  the  mission's  history  our  labours  began  to  take 
effect.  From  about  the  time  of  my  beginning  to  address 
the  people  in  their  own  language,  a  movement  commenced 
which  advanced  slowly,  but  steadily  and  surely,  becoming- 
more  and  more  marked  as  time  wore  on.  It  was  our 
great  privilege  to  have  but  a  very  brief  "night  of  toil." 
The  sowing  time  and  the  reaping  time  followed  eacli 
other  in  quick  succession.  Very  soon  after  I  was  able  to 
open  my  commission,  and  go  forth  preaching  the  gospel, 
evidence  began  to  appear  that  the  Lord  was  working  witli 
us,  and  confirming  the  word  with  signs  following.  The 
continued  unfolding  of  the  work  we  proceed  to  trace. 

During  the  month  of  October  of  this  year,  1839,  there 
were  symptoms  of  something  more  marked  and  extended 
being  at  hand  than  had  yet  appeared.  The  church  meeting 
held  on  the  5th  Avas  a  remarkable  season.  We  had  only 
one  addition  to  our  number,  but  the  presence  and  power 
of  the  Holy  Spirit  seemed  to  be  amongst  us  in  an  unusual 
degree.  A  spirit  of  deep  contrition,  earnest  desires  after 
nearness  to  the  Saviour,  and  longings  to  be  instrumental 


I20  THE  U.S.  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

in  leading  otliers  to  Him,  seemed  to  fill  the  hearts  of  our 
little  company ;  and,  on  tlie  Sabbath  following,  the  services 
■were  of  the  same  promising  character.  The  large  con- 
gregations were  earnestly  attentive,  and,  in  many  cases, 
much  moved  by  what  they  saw  and  heard. 

The  next  Sabbath  was  spent  at  Leone.  Nothing  remark- 
able appeared  there  on  that  occasion.  The  ordinance  of 
the  Lord's  Supper  was  administered  for  the  first  time  in 
that  district,  and  we  had  large  congregations,  but  there 
were  no  indications  of  an  approaching  awakening  similar 
to  what  we  had  at  Pangopango.  In  this  respect  there  was 
a  striking  difference  between  the  two  places  at  the  time  to 
which  we  now  refer,  and  for  a  considerable  time  after. 

On  my  return  to  Pangopango,  I  found  the  United  States 
ship  of  war  "Vincennes"  at  anchor.  The  "Vincennes" 
was  one  of  six  vessels  sent  by  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment on  an  exploring  expedition.  She  was  the  flag-ship, 
and  was  commanded  by  Captain,  now  Admiral  Wilkes. 
This  of  course  is  not  the  place  to  say  much  of  an  expedi- 
tion, all  whose  proceedings  have  become  matters  of  history. 
The  "  Vincennes  "  remained  three  weeks  with  us,  and  by 
previous  arrangement  the  "Peacock"  and  the  "Plying- 
Fisli "  met  her  at  Pangopango,  so  we  had  all  three  for  a 
time  at  anchor  together. 

We  had  much  pleasant  intercourse  with  those  of  the 
commanders,  and  officers,  and  scientific  gentlemen  of  the 
expedition  with  whom  we  met,  and  it  is  due  to  them  to 
state  that  their  conduct  towards  us  and  the  natives  was 
uniformly  kind  and  respectful.  Every  disposition  was 
shown  by  the  commanders  and  others  to  further  the 
objects  of  our  mission,  and  any  unworthy  conduct  that 
was  attempted  by  some,  was  discountenanced  and  frowned 
upon  by  the  great  majority. 

On  the  23d  of  the  same  month,  October  1839,  we  were 
agreeably  surprised  by  the  arrival  of  the  "  Camden."     She 


VISIT  OF  THE  "CAMDEiW"  121 

had  been  to  the  Taliitian  group  and  the  Hervey  Islands, 
and  was  on  lier  way  to  l^pohi.  It  was  long  after  sunset, 
and  we  liad  just  finished  our  evening  worship,  when  a  rap 
was  heard,  and  who  should  we  find  on  opening  the  door 
but  good  Captain  Morgan,  with  a  new  missionary  and  his 
wife  for  our  gToup.  They  had  come  into  the  harbour  Ijy 
the  light  of  the  moon — a  thing  seldom  attempted ;  hence 
we  had  no  intimation  of  them  till  we  saw  them. 

The  new  arrivals  were  Mr  and  ]\Irs  Pratt.  They  had 
joined  the  "  Camden  "  at  Tahiti,  having  come  to  that  place 
rid  Sydney  and  New  Zealand.  They  were  stationed  at 
Matautu,  on  the  island  of  Savaii.  Mrs  Pratt's  course 
was  brief  A  few  years  passed  and  she  rested  from  her 
labours ;  but  Mr  Pratt  continues  to  the  present  time,  1875, 
diligently  prosecuting  the  work  to  which  he  has  devoted 
his  life. 

The  "  Camden  "  made  a  very  short  stay  with  us  on  the 
present  occasion.  She  sailed  for  Upolu  on  the  25th  of 
October.  She  was  making  haste  to  that  island,  whence 
she  was  to  start  on  the  voyage  to  the  New  Hebrides, 
which  was  to  have  so  sad  and  unexpected  a  termination. 

At  our  next  church  meeting,  which  was  held  on  the 
2d  of  November,  we  had  an  addition  of  six  to  our  number. 
On  no  former  occasion  had  a  more  desirable  state  of  mind 
been  manifested.  All  were  melted  and  subdued.  If  the 
sacrifices  of  God  are  a  broken  spirit,  and  if  He  delights  in 
the  contrite  heart,  then  is  there  good  reason  to  conclude  that 
He  looked  with  comjDlacency  on  our  little  company,  and 
fulfilled  to  them  His  gracious  promise  : — "  Por  thus  saith 
the  High  and  Lofty  One,  that  inhabiteth  eternity,  whose 
name  is  Holy,  I  dwell  in  the  high  and  holy  place,  with  him 
also  that  is  of  a  contrite  and  humble  spirit,  to  revive  the 
spirit  of  the  humble,  and  to  cheer  the  heart  of  the  con- 
trite ones."  On  the  following  Sabbath  we  were  again 
much  favoured.     I  preached  from  John  xi.  56,  last  clause 


122  DEEPENING  IX TE REST. 

of  the  verse,  and  administered  the  ordinance  of  the  Lord's 
Supper.  From  the  commencement  of  the  service,  all 
appeared  solemn,  and,  while  the  ordinance  was  being 
observed,  almost  all  the  members  were  deeply  affected. 
The  congregation  was  profoundly  attentive,  and  appeared 
much  impressed.  The  afternoon  service  was  similar  in 
character  to  that  of  the  morning,  and  the  influence  ex- 
tended to  the  Sabbatli-school,  at  which  there  were  about 
two  hundred  present,  old  and  young. 

On  the  following  day,  Monday,  November  the  4th,  we 
had  our  usual  monthly  missionary  prayer-meeting  in  the 
afternoon.  It  was  an  interesting  occasion,  but  there  were 
no  extraordinary  manifestations  of  feeling.  We  were  now, 
however,  on  the  very  eve  of  a  movement,  deep,  extended, 
and  long-continued.  For  a  length  of  time  the  cloud  had 
been  gathering,  and  first  drops  not  a  few  had  fallen,  but 
now  we  were  about  to  have  showers  instead  of  drops.  God 
was  about  to  "  send  a  plentiful  rain  "  to  confirm  His  inheri- 
tance when  it  was  weary,  and  to  quicken  many  who  were 
as  yet  dead  in  trespasses  and  sins.  It  is  a  noteworthy 
fact,  and  strongly  confirmatory  of  what  those  who  were 
pri\aleged  to  be  on  the  spot  and  share  the  blessing  do  not 
now  doubt — that  the  movement  was  from  God — that  on 
the  same  evening  there  were  manifestations  precisely 
similar  to  those  I  am  about  to  describe  at  the  village  of 
Nuuuli,  about  seven  miles  from  Pangopango,  and,  on  the 
following  morning,  at  Vaitongi,  still  farther  distant.  At 
these  places,  as  at  Pangopango,  much  prayer  had  pre- 
ceded the  bestowal  of  the  blessing,  and  there  had  been 
much  longing  for  it.  In  prayer  and  fervent  desire  those 
who  were  the  Lord's  remembrancers  had  opened  their 
mouths  wide,  and,  according  to  the  promise,  the  blessing 
came.  Let  me  try  to  depict  the  scene  as  it  occurred  at 
Pangopango,  in  our  own  family,  and  under  my  own  eye. 
It  was  the  hour  of  evening  worship,  and  all  the  members 


EX  TRA  OR  DIN  A  R  V  MO  VEMEXT.  1 2  3 

of  our  household — some  dozen  or  more — were  assembled. 
We  had  sung  a  hymn,  and  passages  of  Scripture  were 
being  repeated,  according  to  our  custom,  which  was  for 
each  member  of  the  family  to  repeat  a  verse.  I  was  com- 
menting upon  the  texts  as  they  were  being  given,  dropping 
words  of  explanation,  warning,  or  encouragement,  as  the 
case  might  be,  when  to  my  astonishment  and  almost  alarm 
(I  had  never  before  -w^itnessed  anything  of  the  kind),  a 
number  of  our  company  were  seized  with  overpowering 
convictions.  There  was  no  more  repeating  of  texts,  and 
to  attempt  to  read  the  Scriptures  would  have  been  useless, 
so  I  tried  to  pray ;  but  while  I  was  so  engaged,  the  feelings 
of  those  who  had  been  seized  with  convictions  became 
more  and  more  ungovernable,  and  when  prayer  was  finished, 
the  house  was  a  very  Bochim.  It  was  vain  to  attempt  to 
restrain  or  calm  them  by  words,  their  distress  was  evi- 
dently too  deep  to  allow  of  their  attending  to  or  being 
affected  by  anything  that  man  could  do  or  say.  As  soon 
as  they  were  able,  they  retired — not,  however,  to  find 
relief  or  rest,  but  to  mourn  in  secret  and  cry  in  the  bitter- 
ness of  their  spirit.  Eight  were  thus  affected — three  men 
and  five  women.  Some  of  them,  I  afterwards  found,  had 
been  under  concern  for  some  days  before.  It  appeared  as 
if  they  had  come  together  that  evening  with  their  hearts 
full  like  pent-up  waters,  and,  during  the  course  of  our 
exercises,  tJie  moment  came  when  they  could  no  longer 
restrain  their  feelings,  and  they  found  vent  as  above 
described.  Those  who  were  unaffected  looked  on  with 
a  sort  of  blank  amazement. 

At  the  time  referred  to,  we  had  an  unusually  large 
number  of  people  about  us.  To  live  in  our  family  in  those 
days  was  considered  an  honour  and  a  privilege,  and  as  our 
domestics  were  in  the  way  of  getting  good  and  being  fitted 
for  usefulness  as  teachers  or  otherwise,  we  did  not  object 
to  having  a  laroer  number  than  were  needed  for  servants. 


124  STATE  OF  THE  AWAKENED. 

Of  course  we  took  care  to  find  them  some  useful  em- 
ployment. 

There  was  no  sleeping  among  those  in  distress  during 
that  night.  Its  hours  were  spent  by  them  in  weeping  and 
supplication,  and  the  dawn  of  a  new  day  found  their 
distress  but  little  abated.  Some  of  them  appeared  to 
have  got  a  glimpse  of  the  mercy  of  God  in  Christ  suffi- 
cient to  inspire  a  ray  of  hope ;  others  had  found  no  relief. 
They  did  not  appear  to  doubt  the  ability  and  willingness 
of  Christ  to  save  them,  but  they  seemed  to  have  such 
views  of  their  own  sinfulness  in  connection  with  His 
sufferings  and  death,  as  filled  them  with  o^'erwhelming 
emotion,  and  prevented  their  looking  away  from  them- 
selves to  Him.  Their  distress  continued  throughout  the 
day.  Towards  evening  they  became  more  calm,  perhaps 
partly  from  physical  exhaustion,  but  in  the  case  of  some, 
I  trust,  from  having  found  rest  in  Christ.  Seven  out  of 
the  eight  appeared,  after  a  while,  to  be  truly  converted  to 
God,  and  were  admitted  to  the  church. 

Such  was  the  commencement  of  the  awakening  which 
subsequently  spread  over  very  nearly  the  whole  island. 
There  were  but  few  corners  to  which  its  influence  did  not, 
more  or  less,  extend.  We  had  many  fears  and  anxieties 
connected  with  the  movement  during  its  early  stages. 
Neither  Mrs  Murray  nor  myself  knew  anything  of  re- 
vivals, as  these  general  awakenings  are  usually  called, 
except  what  we  liad  read  in  books,  and  to  this  perhaps 
our  anxieties  and  misgivings  were  chiefly  owing.  Gra- 
dually we  reached  the  settled  conviction  that  it  was  God's 
work,  and  then  our  minds  were  at  rest.  As  we  realised 
the  fact  that  the  Holy  Spirit  was  really  working  mightily 
among  us,  quickening  dead  souls  and  raising  them  to  a 
new  and  divine  life,  our  joy  was  great,  and  we  thanked 
God  and  took  courage. 


REVIVALS  IN  SCOTLAND.  125 

Had  we  known  at  the  first  what  we  afterwards  learned, 
it  would  have  tended  not  a  little  to  assure  our  hearts  and 
relieve  our  anxieties.  At  the  very  time  when  our  awak- 
ening commenced,  and  while  it  was  in  progress,  similar 
awakenings  were  taking  place  in  Scotland,  in  my  own 
native  town,  Jedburgli,  and  in  Kelso,  and  other  places ; 
and  in  some  of  these  were  friends,  between  whom  and 
myself  a  close  connection  was  kept  up,  though  we  were 
separated  by  half  the  globe ;  and  while  showers  of  blessing 
were  falling  around  tliem,  they  were  accustomed  to  think 
(jf  us,  and  pray  that  we,  in  our  distant  sphere,  might  share 
in  the  merciful  visitations  with  which  they  were  being 
favoured.  By  a  comparison  of  dates,  those  acquainted 
with  the  history  of  the  movements  referred  to  will  see 
that  the  revivals  in  tlie  places  I  have  named,  and  in 
Perth,  Dundee,  and  elsewhere,  began  about  the  same 
time  as  did  ours,  and  that  for  many  months  they  pro- 
gressed simultaneously.  It  was  on  tlie  4th  of  November 
1839  tliat  our  awakening  commenced.  It  reached  its 
lieight  during  1840,  and  gradually  subsided  during  1841 
and  1842. 

Many  months  passed,  of  course,  before  we  knew  of 
what  was  taking  place  in  Scotland.  When  the  tidings  did 
reach  us,  wonder  and  gratitude  filled  our  hearts,  and  witli 
increasing  confidence  and  hopefulness  we  laboured  on  in 
our  own  distant  spliere. 


(  126 


CHAPTEE  XVIII. 

HINDKANCES — STEADFASTNESS  OF  THE  PEOPLE  — PROGRESS  OF  THE  AWAKENING 
— EFFECT  UPON  BELIEVERS — CASE  OF  LASALO — CONVERSATIONS  WITH 
THE  AWAKENED — CLOSE  OF  THE  TEAR  1839 — REFLECTIONS. 

OuE  revival  would  have  lacked  one  mark  of  genuineness 
if  it  had  proceeded  long  without  checks.  In  the  case  of 
communities,  as  of  individuals, 

'•  Trials  must  and  will  befall." 

So  it  has  ever  been,  and  so,  no  doubt,  it  will  continue 
to  be  till  the  brighter  era  for  which  we  w^ait  oj^ens  upon 
the  Church  and  the  world. 

The  death  of  the  old  chief  ]\Iaunga  was  noticed  in  the 
former  chapter,  where  it  was  also  mentioned  that  he  was 
succeeded  by  an  adopted  son,  a  young  man  of  a  very 
indifferent  character.  Some  months  before  the  date  at 
which  we  have  now  arrived  he  had  gone  to  Upolu,  taking 
with  him  a  large  number  of  people.  What  afterwards 
appeared  to  be  his  real  errand  was  concealed  at  the  time 
lie  left,  and  only  came  out  now  when  it  could  no  longer  be 
kept  secret.  It  was  probably  known  from  the  first  by 
some  of  the  leading  men  wdio  accompanied  him.  Shortly 
after  obtaining  the  chieftainship,  he  had  taken  to  himself 
a  wife,  a  young  woman  belonging  to  Pangopango.  She 
was  not  considered  a  suitable  match  for  him,  but  he  was 
bent  on  having  her,  and  as  there  was  no  obstacle  either 


A  SERIOUS  CHECK.  127 

legal  or  moral,  he  was  married  to  her.  After  a  time  he 
liad  repented  of  his  choice,  and  his  errand  to  Upolu  was 
to  look  out  for  another  wife.  He  had  succeeded  in  finding 
a  lady  to  his  mind,  and  her  relations  had  consented  to  his 
having  her,  and  probably  she  herself  was  also  agreeable. 
The  name  of  Maunga,  which  the  young  man  bore,  carried 
weight,  and  a  large  amount  of  property  would  be  obtained 
by  the  family  and  relations  of  her  who  should  become  his 
wife,  and  they  were  either  not  aware  that,  he  was  already 
married,  or  did  not  regard  that  as  an  insuperable  difficulty 
in  the  way  of  his  taking  another.  So  all  preliminaries 
were  settled,  and  part  of  Maunga's  attendants  were  de- 
spatched to  Tutuila  to  collect  the  property  that  was  to  be 
presented  to  the  family  of  the  bride.  Three  hundred 
articles  of  foreign  property  were  to  be  given,  and,  as 
Maunga  was  a  great  man,  a  large  proportion  of  them 
would  be  expected  to  be  articles  of  value.  Maunga 
himself  and  part  of  his  followers  remained  on  Upolu. 
The  party  arrived  on  the  third  day  after  the  revival  com- 
menced. It  was  composed  of  all  the  worst  characters 
that  could  be  collected  from  Pangopango  and  the  neigli- 
'bourhood.  Among  them,  however,  were  some  important 
chiefs. 

What  was  going  on  at  Upolu  was  soon  noised  abroad, 
and  confirmed  by  orders  being  issued  in  the  chief's 
name  for  the  co-operation  of  the  people,  by  collecting  the 
required  amount  of  property.  The  people  had  no  wish 
to  act  disloyally  towards  their  chief,  but  how  could  they 
become  parties  to  such  a  business  as  that  now  projected, 
and  remain  faithful  to  God  ?  Here  was  Maunga's  lawful 
wife  living  among  them,  and  it  was  not  even  pretended 
that  she  had  given  him  any  cause  to  cast  her  ofi".  Hence, 
the  step  which  they  were  required  to  sanction  and  become 
parties  to  w\as  a  fiagrant  violation  of  all  law,  human  and 
divine.     Still  it  was  a  serious  matter  to  refuse  obedience 


128  DIFFICULTY  OF  OUR  POSITION. 

to  Maunga,  and  expose  him  to  shame  on  Upohi,  and  so 
incur  Iiis  wrath,  and  that  of  all  who  were  making  common 
cause  with  him; — especially  was  this  the  case  with  his 
own  family  and  relatives.  Such  a  thing  was  never  dreamt 
of,  I  suppose,  in  bygone  days  as  to  refuse  to  obey  Maunga's 
order  in  such  an  affair.  And  it  was  not  considered  a 
hardship,  but  an  honour  and  privilege  to  contribute  property 
on  the  occasion  of  a  marriage,  especially  to  that  of  a  great 
chief.  A  corresponding  amount  to  that  given  was  expected 
from  the  family  and  friends  of  the  lady;  and,  after  the 
marriage,  this  was  served  out  among  those  who  had  con- 
tributed towards  that  given  by  the  chief.  Hence  it  was 
something  like  taking  shares  in  a  joint-stock  concern,  and 
every  one  expected  to  get  back  at  least  the  full  value  of 
what  he  had  given;  and  then  there  was  the  Select  and 
excitement  connected  with  the  business,  so  pleasing  and 
attractive  to  human  nature. 

After  fully  considering  the  matter — indeed  it  did  not 
require  much  consideration — our  course  seemed  clear  to 
stand  entirely  aloof  from  the  affair,  and  leave  the  con- 
sequences with  God.  So  it  was  intimated  to  the  church 
members  and  candidates,  and  also  to  the  members  of  the 
Friday  meeting,  that  we  should  regard  all  who  made 
themselves  parties  to  the  proposed  marriage  as  having 
renounced  their  connection  with  us ;  and  the  result  was 
that,  with  a  single  exception,  all  determined  to  obey  God 
rather  than  man ;  and  the  individual,  a  member  of  the 
Friday  meeting,  who  at  first  declared  his  intention  of 
standing  by  the  chief,  did  not  carry  out  his  declaration. 
After  a  few  days  he  came  and  told  me  that  he  had 
changed  his  mind,  and  was  resolved  to  abide  by  the  Word 
of  God. 

Thus  the  people  remained  steadfast  through  this  trial, 
and  Maunga's  lawless  party  had  to  seek  the  property 
among  the  remaining  heathen,  and  others  of  similar  stamp 


PROGRESS  OF  THE  AWAKENING.  129 

throughout  the  district.  They  succeeded  in  getting  to- 
gether the  required  amount,  and  returned  to  Upoki  in  no 
pleasant  humour,  where,  for  the  present,  we  will  leave 
them. 

Indications  that  the  work  which  had  been  so  remarkably 
begun  was  about  to  spread,  soon  appeared.  The  arrival  of 
the  party  from  Upolu,  and  the  errand  on  which  they  came, 
distracted  the  minds  of  the  people,  and  doubtless  operated 
as  a  slight  check;  but  attention  was  soon  again  concentrated 
on  the  one  great  subject  which,  to  increasing  numbers,  was 
becoming  all-engrossing.  My  meeting  with  the  teachers 
on  Friday,  November  the  8th,  was  unusually  solemn,  as 
was  also  the  service  in  the  afternoon.  At  that  there  M-as 
much  deep  feehng — too  deep,  in  some  cases,  to  be  restrained. 
At  Mrs  Murray's  class  with  the  women,  also,  there  were 
similar  indications  of  deep  concern.  Nothing  particularly 
noteworthy  appeared  on  the  Sabbath.  So  far,  the  extra- 
ordinary manifestations  were  confined  within  narrow  limits, 
but  the  movement  of  which  they  were  the  precursors  was 
widely  extended,  as  well  as  deeply  seated. 

About  the  middle  of  the  month  (November),  I  visited 
Leone,  and  spent  a  Sabbath  between  that  place  and  Vai- 
tongi.  I  thought  I  perceived  symptoms  of  an  unproved 
state  of  things  at  Leone,  and  my  hopes  were  strengthened 
that  ere  long  it  would  share  in  the  blessing  that  had  begun 
to  descend  elsewhere.  A  disposition  to  doubt  the  genuine- 
ness of  what  was  in  progress  at  other  places  had  appeared. 
Some  even  went  the  length  of  ridiculing  those  who  were 
the  subjects  of  deep  convictions.  Having  no  experience  of 
a  similar  kind  themselves,  and  being  under  the  influence 
of  a  carnal  mind,  the  things  of  the  Spirit  appeared  unto 
them  foolishness.  How  uniform  are  the  workings  and 
developments  of  human  nature  all  the  world  over,  and  in 
all  generations  !  Whatever  may  be  said  as  to  the  physical 
identity  of  the  various  races  of  man,  surely  the  more  im- 

I 


130  A  MAN  MIGHTY  IN  PRA  YER. 

portant  of  tlie  two,  their  moral  identity,  cannot  be  called 
in  question ;  and  does  not  the  greater  involve  the  less  ? 

At  Pangopango  the  work  continued  to  progress.  The 
members  of  the  church  seemed  as  if  they  had  undergone  a 
re- conversion,  and  risen  all  at  once  to  a  higher  life.  A 
remarkable  degree  of  earnestness  appeared  amongst  them, 
and  such  a  spirit  of  prayer  rested  upon  them  as  seemed 
plainly  to  reveal  the  source  whence  it  came.  It  was  re- 
freshing to  listen  to  their  pleadings  for  their  own  growth 
in  grace,  and  for  the  salvation  of  others,  far  and  near. 

Among  those  who  were  specially  remarkable  for  the  pos- 
session of  a  devout  and  prayerful  spuit,  was  a  young  man, 
named  Lasalo  (Lazarus),  whose  case  was  the  most  marked 
of  all.     He  was  a  native  of  a  small  island,  mentioned  in  a 
former  chapter,  named  Aunuu,  about  ten  miles  from  Pango- 
pango,   Before  his  conversion  he  had  been  regarded  as  being 
a  little  simple.    He  was  so  shy  and  bashful  as  to  be  called 
a  hushmcm ;  but,  to  the  surprise  of  every  one,  Christianity 
seemed  at  once  to  make  a  man  of  him  in  every  respect. 
From  being  a  basliful,  retiring  youth  who  could  scarcely 
look  any  one  in  the  face,  he  stood  forth  at  once  a  man  of 
respectable  talents,  and  especially  a  man  mighty  in  prayer, 
and  full  of  zeal  in  the  cause  of  Christ.     I  have  not  known 
another  whose  prayers  were  so  uniformly  fervent,  and  in 
so  high  a  degree ;  and  this  lasted  for  many  months — I  may 
say  years.     He  was  a  decided  Christian,  and  a  member  of 
the  church  some  time  iefore  the  awakening  commenced. 
He  and  his  wife,  EUsapeta  (Elizabeth),  were  members  of 
our  family  at  the  time  the  revival  began,  and  for  many  years 
afterwards.     He  had  striven  earnestly  by  prayer,"  and  the 
use  of  other  means,  to  lead  her  to  the  Saviour,  and  he  had 
his  reward.     She  was  one  of  the  eight  who  were  seized 
with  convictions  on  the  4th  of  November,  and  at  the  time 
of  which  I  wiite  she  and  her  husband  were,  to  all  appear- 
ance, heirs  together  of  the  grace  of  life.     For  many  years 


CONTINUED  PROGRESS.  131 

they  were  spared  to  each  other.  When  visiting  Tutuila  in 
1867,  I  found  that  Elisapeta  had  finished  her  course  some 
years  before.  Lasalo  was  still  alive  ;  he  had  retired  to  his 
native  isle,  where  he  was  much  respected.  He  was  afflicted 
with  a  painful  disease,  but  was  holding  fast  his  hope,  and 
looking  joyfidly  forward  to  its  consummation  in  the  land 
of  rest. 

On  the  26th  of  this  month  (November),  tidings  reached 
us  that  an  awakening  had  commenced  at  Aunuu,  the 
native  place  of  Lasalo  and  Elisapeta.  Shortly  before  the 
tune  to  which  we  now  refer,  he  had  paid  a  visit  to  the 
island.  He  went  with  a  heart  glowing  with  love  to  the 
Saviour,  and  yearning  over  perishing  men,  and  besought 
his  kindred  and  friends  and  countrymen  to  betake  them- 
selves to  Christ.  A  good  work  was  in  progress  on  the 
island  before  his  visit.  A  number  of  the  people  had  been 
in  the  habit  of  attending  the  services  at  Pangopango  on 
Eridays  and  Sabbaths,  and  a  teacher  had  been  at  work 
on  the  island  for  many  months. 

At  this  time  our  Sabbaths  were  seasons  of  special 
interest.  Every  successive  one  had  been  marked  by  in- 
creasingly deep  seriousness  and  solemnity,  especially  since 
the  commencement  of  the  awakening ;  and,  among  our 
Sabbaths,  one  stood  out  with  special  prominence — the  first 
Sabbath  of  the  month — the  day  on  which  we  were  accus- 
tomed to  observe  the  ordinance  of  the  Lord's  Supper. 

Sabbath,  December  the  1st,  was  the  first  ordinance 
Sabbath  since  the  commencement  of  the  awakening,  and 
the  services  were  times  of  melting  and  refreshing  to 
believers,  and  of  quickening  to  others.  There  was  no 
outburst  of  feeling,  but  sighs  and  silent  tears  told  in 
eloquent  language  how  deep  were  the  emotions  that 
swelled  the  bosoms  of  many. 

Nearly  a  month  had  now  passed  since  tlie  awakening 
commenced,  and  a  considerable  number  in  different  places 


132         CONVERSING  WITH  THE  AWAKENED. 

had  been  aroused  and  were  anxiously  inquiring  after  the  way 
of  peace.     This,  some  to  all  appearance  had  already  found, 
hut  much  the  greater  number  had  not  as  yet  been  enabled  to 
lay  hold  of  the  hope  set  before  them.     Their  cu-cumstanpes 
were  very  critical,  and  required  cautious  and  careful  treat- 
ment.    There  w^ere  opposing  dangers.     On  the  one  hand, 
to  bring  them  forward  into  notice  might  tend  to  lift  them 
up,  and  so  induce  a  state  of  mind  unfavourable  to  the 
continuance  of  their  impressions,  and  subversive  of  the 
desired  end ;  or  it  might  be  an  inducement  to  others  to  act 
a  hj^ocritical  part  in  order  to  get  into  notice.     On  the 
other  hand,  to   leave  those  who   were   sincerely  groping 
their  way  without  special  instruction,  was  to  expose  them 
to  danger.     They  needed  light,  and  they  needed  encourage- 
ment.    Without  these  they  might  stop  short  of  the  true 
foundation,  and  take  up  with  a  false  peace,  or  they  might 
yield  to  temptation  and  lose  their  impressions.     On  the 
whole,  I  concluded  that  it  was  clearly  my  duty  to  converse 
with  them  individually,  and  do  what  I  could,  by  the  help 
and  blessing  of  God,  to  guard  them  from  danger,  and  guide 
them  to  the  Saviour.     So  on  Monday,  December  the  2d,  I 
began  the  deeply-interesting  work  of  dealing  with  anxious 
souls.    On  that  day  I  conversed  with  twenty-eight  persons, 
one  by  one.     With  two  or  three  exceptions  they  appeared 
to  be  really  awakened.    Some  seemed  to  have  been  enabled 
to  lay  hold  of  the  Saviour,  but  the  gTcater  part  had  not 
reached  this  stage. 

An  occasional  extract  from  records  made  at  the  time 
will  assist  the  reader  in  forming  an  idea  of  the  present 
state  of  things.  No  alteration  will  be  made  in  the  extracts 
materially  affecting  the  sense.  The  following  is  from  an 
entry  made  in  my  journal,  under  date  December  the  7th, 
1839:— 

"  During  the  past  week  the  work  has  appeared  to  go 
on  prosperously.     None  have  at  all  seemed  to  decline,  and 


THE  POWER  OF  THE  TRUTH.  133 

several  have  been  newly  awakened.  Tliere  is  an  astonisliing 
injQuence  at  work  among  the  people.  Proud,  hard-hearted, 
cruel  savages  are  being  humbled  and  subdued,  and  are 
mourning  over  their  sins,  and  earnestly  looking  to  the 
Lamb  of  God.  The  lofty  looks  of  men  are  indeed  being 
humbled,  and  the  Lord  alone  is  being  exalted.  Men  who 
hardly  ever  feared  before,  are  being  brought  trembling  to 
the  foot  of  the  cross,  Avith  the  anxious  inquiry, '  What  must 
we  do  ? ' " 

About  the  middle  of  this  month  I  \dsited  Leone,  and 
was  cheered  to  observe  indications  of  an  improved  state  of 
things.  There  was  nothing  approaching  to  what  was 
taking  place  in  the  other  district,  but  I  felt  as  if  not  a 
great  Avhile  would  pass  before  we  should  have  a  shaldng 
among  the  dry  bones  there,  as  elsewhere.  On  my  way 
from  Leone  I  visited  Vaitongi,  and  conversed  with  thirty 
of  the  recently  awakened,  most  of  wliom  appeared  under 
deep  convictions,  and  some  of  whom  seemed  to  have  found 
rest  in  Christ. 

Such  was  the  state  of  things  as  this  eventful  year  drew 
to  a  close.  During  its  progress  God  had  done  great  things 
for  us,  and,  towards  its  close,  He  had  opened  the  windows 
of  heaven,  and  poured  us  out  a  blessing  the  measure  of 
which  filled  us  with  grateful  wonder.  I  may  say  without 
qualification,  He  had  done  for  us  "  exceeding  abundantly 
above  all  that  we  asked  or  thoudit." 

O 

Among  the  means  which  contributed  towards  deepening 
and  extending  the  awakening,  the  meetings  which  Mrs 
Murray  held  with  the  women  were  not  the  least  efficacious. 
Many  melting  and  refreshing  seasons  did  she  and  they  enjoy, 
and  eternity  alone  will  reveal  how  much  many  owed  to 
these  meetings. 

It  was  easy  and  delightful  to  conduct  services  during 
these  times  of  refreshing.  With  so  many  thirsting  souls 
around  us,  in  full  sympathy  with  ourselves  and  our  work. 


134  SHOWERS  OF  BLESSING. 

and  clouds  of  blessing  hovering  over  us,  it  seemed  only- 
needful  to  place  ourselves  in  the  attitude  of  suppliants 
and  receivers  to  have  the  life-giving  influence  descend  upon 
us  as  the  early  and  the  latter  rain.  The  words  employed  in 
a  former  chapter  are  felt  to  be  still  more  appropriate  to 
these  subsequent  times — 

"  What  peaceful  hours  we  then  enjoyed ! 
How  sweet  their  memory  still  !  " 

Not  till  we  get  within  the  veil,  and  drink  from  the  foun- 
tain-head, are  we  likely  to  experience  such  times  again. 
Such  is  our  feeling,  yet  why  should  we  so  feel  ?  "  The 
Lord's  arm  is  not  shortened  that  it  cannot  save,  nor  His  ear 
heavy  that  it  cannot  hear."  Oh !  that  He  would  rend  the 
heavens  and  come  down,  that  the  mountains  might  flow 
down  at  His  presence,  and  such  a  mighty  blessing  descend 
on  this  sin-stricken  earth  as  the  prophetic  page  warrants 
us  to  pray  for  and  expect.  Sooner  or  later  it  will  come. 
The  Lord  hasten  it  in  His  time  ! 


(135) 


CHAPTEE  XIX. 

ENTERING  UPON  THE  YEAU  1840 — VISIT  OF  MESSRS  HEATH  AND  BUCHANAN — 

VISIT    TO  LEONE  AND   VAITONGI CHAPEL-OPENING   AT   LEONE — VISIT   TO 

MANUA  BY  MESSRS  HEATH  AND  BUCHANAN — RETURN  OF  MAUNGA  AND 
PARTY  FROM  UPOLU — WAR  THREATENED  BUT  AVERTED — CHAPEL-OPENING 
AT  PANGOPANGO — FAREWELL  SERVICE  WITH  THE  BRETHREN  FROM  UPOLU 
— PROGRESS  OP  THE  AWAKENING FIRST  DEATH  IN  THE  CHURCH. 

We  have  spoken  of  tlie  year  that  has  just  closed  as 
eventful,  and  so  it  was ;  but  that  on  which  we  are  now 
entering  was  so  in  a  still  higher  degree.  Early  in  the 
month  of  January  we  were  favoured  with  a  visit  from  a 
deputation  of  our  brethren  from  Upolu.  We  had  not  met 
any  missionary  brother  since  the  death  of  Mr  Barnden, 
and  none  of  the  members  of  our  mission  had  ^^sited 
Manua.  Except  a  passing  call  from  Mr  Wdliams,  no  mis- 
sionary had  yet  been  to  that  group ;  and  the  commission 
of  the  brethren,  Messrs  Heath  and  Buchanan,  who  now 
visited  u.s,  included  a  visit  to  Manua. 

They  arrived  at  Tutuila  on  the  9  th  of  January.  ]\Ir 
Buchanan  was  an  infant-school  teacher,  and,  on  that 
account,  he  was  selected  to  accompany  Mr  Heath,  that  he 
might  do  something  during  their  stay  at  Tutuila  and 
Manua  in  his  special  department. 

The  visit  of  these  brethren  was  specially  opportune.  It 
was  a  great  satisfaction  to  us  to  have  a  man  of  Llr  Heath's 
years  and  experience  to  see  for  himself,  and  form  his  own 
judgment  of  the  revival  movement  from  actual  observa- 


136  MR  HEATH'S  TESTIMONY. 

tion  and  conversations  with  tlie  awakened ;  and  it  tended 
much  to  assure  our  own  minds,  that  he  and  his  companion 
were  fully  satisfied  that  it  was  from  God.  In  a  letter 
from  Mr  Heath  to  me,  written  shortly  after  their  return 
to  Upolu,  the  following  sentence  occurs,  "  I  bless  God 
from  my  heart  for  what  I  saw  and  heard  on  Tutuila." 

The  brethren  arrived  on  Thursday,  and  on  the  Friday 
and  Sabbath  following  Mr  Heath  conducted  the  services. 
We  need  hardly  add  that  the  congregations  were  large  and 
attentive. 

On  Monday,  January  the  13th,  we  left  Pangopango  to 
visit  Leone.  We  took  Vaitongi  on  our  way,  and  spent  a 
night  there,  so  the  brethren  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
what  was  going  on  at  that  place.  At  Leone  we  had  a  chapel- 
opening.  The  line  place,  described  in  a  former  chapter, 
was  not  substantial  enough  to  bear  the  heavy  gales  that 
occasionally  sweep  over  Samoa,  so  it  had  to  be  taken  to 
pieces,  and  rebuilt  before  it  had  stood  two  years.  It  was 
the  people's  first  attempt  at  building  a  house  of  such 
shape  and  dimensions.  Hence  it  is  not  surprising  that 
they  failed.  The  work  of  reconstruction  was  completed 
at  the  time  the  brethren  from  Upolu  visited  us,  so  we 
took  advantage  of  their  presence  to  have  the  chapel  re- 
opened. The  occasion  was  less  interesting  than  it  might 
otherwise  have  been,  on  account  of  the  brethren  being  in 
haste  to  return  to  Pangopango  that  they  might  take 
advantage  of  the  first  fair  wind  to  Manua.  A  large 
number  of  people  assembled,  to  whom  Mr  Heath  preached, 
and  in  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day  we  returned  to 
Pangopango. 

On  the  Friday  following,  appearances  were  promising 
for  a  fair  wind,  and,  in  the  afternoon  of  that  day,  the 
brethren  started,  hoping  to  reach  Manua  in  twenty-four 
hours.  Instead  of  that,  liowever,  they  were  obliged  to 
return  to  Pangopango.     We  were  all  taken  by  surprise 


A   WORD  FITLY  SPOKEN.  137 

when,  on  Saturday  afternoon,  their  little  craft  again  made 
its  appearance  in  the  harbour ;  so  we  had  the  privilege  of 
having  them  again  with  us  on  the  Sabbath.  A  little 
incident  which  occurred  while  Mr  Heath  was  conducting 
a  catechetical  exercise  on  a  sermon  which  he  had  just 
preached  on  Sabbath  morning,  is  worth  noticing,  as  show- 
ing how  appropriately  the  natives  sometimes  quote  and 
apply  Scripture.  During  the  course  of  the  examination, 
Mr  Heath  asked  the  people  how  they  liked  missionaries 
and  their  message  when  they  first  took  up  their  abode 
among  them.  They  replied  that  they  disliked  their  mes- 
sage very  much.  They  might  have  added,  that  many  of 
them  disKked  ourselves  as  well  as  our  message,  but  that 
would  not  have  suited  Samoan  ideas  of  politeness.  Mr 
Heath  then  asked.  How  they  felt  now .?  Pita,  whom  the 
reader  will  remember  as  our  first  decided  convert,  was 
sitting  right  before  the  pulpit.  He  fixed  his  large,  expres- 
sive eyes,  glistening  with  emotion,  upon  Mr  Heath,  and 
quoted,  mthout  introduction  or  addition,  the  following 
beautifully  appropriate  passage,  from  which  I  had  preached 
some  time  before :  "  How  beautiful  upon  the  mountains 
are  the  feet  of  him  that  bringeth  good  tidings,  that 
publisheth  peace ;  that  bringeth  good  tidings  of  good,  that 
publisheth  salvation."  On  Monday  the  wind  was  fair  for 
Manua,  so  the  brethren  again  started,  and  this  time  they 
succeeded  in  reaching  their  destination. 

As  already  remarked,  we  had  been  much  cheered  by  the 
visit  of  our  brethren ;  and  we  were  rejoicing  in  the  con- 
tinued prosperity  of  our  work,  when  our  bright  prospects 
were  suddenly  overcast.  The  same  wind  that  took  Messrs 
Heath  and  Buchanan  to  Manua,  brought  Maunga  and  his 
wicked  followers  from  Upolu.  They  had  accomplished 
their  object,  but  were  greatly  enraged  against  the  Christian 
party.  Maunga  was  full  of  wi^ath,  and  vowed  vengeance 
against  them,  because  they  had  refused  to  countenance 


138  A  CRITICAL  JUNCTURE. 

and  aid  liim  in  his  evil  deeds.  He  and  his  party  did  not 
come  near  Pangopango  on  their  first  arrival,  but  went 
from  village  to  village  in  those  parts  of  the  island  where 
heathenism  still  retained  a  consideraLle  hold,  indulging  in 
all  the  excesses  to  which  they  had  been  addicted  in  the 
days  of  darkness,  and  openly  avowing  then-  intention  to 
make  an  attack  upon  those  who  had  incurred  their  wrath. 
These  lost  no  time  in  using  their  best  endeavours  to  avert 
the  threatened  danger.  They  sent  messengers — men  of 
the  highest  rank  and  influence  among  them — to  try  to  con- 
ciKate  the  chief  and  his  adherents.  In  this,  however,  they 
had  no  success.  They  were  treated  with  insolence,  and 
all  their  efforts  scornfully  rejected.  The  offended  party 
declared  their  intention  to  drive  us  away,  burn  the  chapel 
at  Pangopango,  which  had  just  been  finished,  and  make 
war  upon  the  Christian  party.  We  supposed  that  they 
were  encouraged  in  their  hostile  intentions  by  an  idea 
that  the  Christian  party  would  not  fight — would  not  even 
defend  themselves.  The  people  were  much  alarmed,  and 
looked  to  us  for  advice  in  the  awkward  circumstances  in 
which  they  were  placed.  Happily,  just  as  matters  were 
approaching  a  crisis,  Messrs  Heath  and  Buchanan  returned 
from  Manua.  This  we  regarded  as  a  great  mercy.  It  is 
so  pleasant  in  such  circumstances  to  have  others  to  con- 
sult with.  We  ad\T-sed  the  natives  to  continue  their 
efforts  to  bring  about  a  peaceful  settlement  of  the  affair ; 
but  to  be  in  readiness  to  defend  themselves,  in  case  of 
these  being  disregarded  by  the  war  party.  And  we  sug- 
gested that  they  had  better  give  that  party  warning  that, 
if  they  persisted  in  their  determination  to  attack  them, 
they  would  find  them  prepared  to  defend  themselves. 
The  hostile  party  were  drawing  nearer  and  nearer,  and 
becoming  more  and  more  haughty  and  insolent,  when  a 
second  and  decided  message  from  the  Christian  party  that 
they  were    prepared  for  them,  had  the  eftect  of  cooling 


CHAPEL-OPENING  AT  PANGOPANGO.  139 

their  courage,  and  leading  them  to  pause  and  bethink  them- 
selves. They  stopped  short  in  their  progress  towards 
Pangopango,  abandoned  their  warlike  intentions,  and 
returned  quietly  to  their  homes,  as  soon  as  shame  and 
other  feelings,  consequent  upon  the  awkward  circum- 
stances into  wliich  they  had  brought  themselves,  would 
allow.  The  cause  of  righteousness  had  triumphed,  and 
the  adherents  of  that  cause  were  filled  with  gratitude  and 

joy- 
On  Monday,  February  the  3d,  very  soon  after  we  got 

over  the  above  troubles,  the  chapel,  against  which  Maunga's 
wrath  had  been  specially  directed,  was  opened.  We 
should  probably  have  deferred  that  step  for  a  short  time, 
as  it  looked  somewhat  like  an  act  of  defiance;  but  we 
were  anxious  to  have  it  while  our  friends  from  Upolu  were 
with  us,  and  this  was  a  reason  which  the  natives  could 
appreciate.  And  we  had  no  cause  afterwards  to  regret  the 
step,  as  all  passed  off  happily.  A  sermon  was  preached 
in  the  morning  by  Mr  Heath,  from  1st  Kings  viii.  29, 
and  in  the  afternoon  we  had  a  valedictory  service.  The 
ordinance  of  the  Lord's  Supper  was  administered,  and  suit- 
able addresses  delivered.  The  occasion  was  an  interesting 
one,  and  to  many  it  was  a  time  of  refreshing  from  the 
presence  of  the  Lord.  On  the  following  day  Messrs  Heath 
and  Buchanan  sailed  for  Upolu,  and  so  ended  their  most 
welcome  and  opportune  visit. 

At  this  time  I  was  much  occupied  in  conversing  with 
those  who  professed  to  be  under  concern.  Such  notices  as 
the  following  frequently  occur  in  my  journal : — "  Spent 
the  whole  day,  with  scarcely  any  intermission,  in  con- 
versing with  persons  under  convictions.  Talked  with 
over  forty.  Most  of  them  have  been  but  recently 
awakened." 

Among  those  with  whom  I  conversed  from  day  to  day, 
there  was  of  course  great  diversity.     They  were  selected 


I40         HOPEFUL  APPEARANCES  AT  LEONE. 

by  the  teachers  of  the  different  villages  as  those  "who 
appeared  to  them  the  most  decidedly  awakened  and  in 
earnest  in  seeking  salvation. 

Sabbath,  the  9th  of  February,  was  spent  at  Leone,  and 
of  that  Sabbath  and  the  visit  connected  with  it,  the  fol- 
lowing notice  occurs  in  my  journal  : — "  Spent  a  very 
pleasant  Sabbath  at  Leone.  Had  congregations  of  nearly 
a  thousand  people,  who  listened  with  great  apparent 
solemnity  to  the  word  of  life.  There  is  a  very  great 
change  for  the  better  there  of  late  ....  A  considerable 
number  seem  really  awakened.  After  the  public  services 
I  conversed  with  thirty  persons  who  profess  to  be  under 
concern." 

A  few  days  after  this,  Maunga  paid  me  a  visit !  He 
professed  to  have  seen  the  evil  of  his  past  conduct.  His 
professions,  of  course,  did  not  amount  to  much,  but  it  was 
a  great  thing  that  his  active  opposition  was  at  an  end, 
and  that  he  was  desirous  of  being  on  friendly  terms. 

Things  went  on  pretty  much  as  I  have  described  during 
the  remainder  of  the  month  of  February.  We  had  crowded 
and  attentive  congregations,  and  fresh  cases  of  conviction 
occurring  from  time  to  time  as  heretofore,  but  on  the  first 
Sabbath  of  March  a  new  phase  of  the  awakening  appeared. 
The  church  meeting  on  the  Saturday  afternoon  was  a  time 
to  be  remembered.  Twenty-one  new  members  were  re- 
ceived, nearly  all  of  whom  were  of  those  who  had  been 
awakened  since  the  revival  commenced.  They  were  the 
first-fruits  of  that  awakening  that  were  gathered  into  the 
visible  Church.  It  was  a  new  thing  to  have  such  a  nume- 
rous addition  at  once.  That,  I  suppose,  had  its  effect  upon 
the  members.  All  liearts  seemed  full,  and  very  fervent 
were  the  prayers  tliat  were  offered,  and  the  expectations 
that  were  cherished — seeming  to  forebode  more  signal  dis- 
plays of  Divine  power  and  grace  than  had  yet  appeared, 
and  so  it  proved. 


A  DAY  TO  BE  REMEMBERED.  141 

The  Sabbath  which  followed,  March  the  1st,  was  dis- 
tinguished beyond  any  that  had  preceded  it.  From  the 
commencement  of  the  morning  service  the  deepest  solem- 
nity appeared.  During  the  first  prayer  there  was  mucli 
feeling,  and'  as  the  discourse,  which  was  from  1  Cor.  i.  18, 
proceeded,  the  tide  continued  to  swell  higher  and  higlier, 
and  wliile  the  ordinance  of  the  Lord's  Supper  was  being 
observed,  many  were  completely  overcome.  Ten  or  twelve 
sank  down  exhausted,  and  had  to  be  carried  out  of  the 
chapel  in  a  state  of  complete  prostration.  The  afternoon 
service  was  of  a  similar  character.  Many  were  overcome 
with  the  depth  of  their  feelings,  and,  after  the  public 
services  of  the  day  were  over,  and  the  people  had  dis- 
persed to  their  homes,  the  whole  neighbourhood  seemed 
in  a  commotion.  Nothing  was  heard  on  all  sides  but  the 
sounds  of  weeping  and  supplication.  Very  solemn  and 
affecting  was  it  to  listen  to  these  sounds,  amid  the  dark- 
ness  and  stillness  of  the  night,  as  I  was  going  to  and  re- 
turning from  a  ship  which  was  at  anchor  in  the  harbour  at 
the  time,  and  on  board  of  which  I  preached  in  the  even- 
ing of  that  remarkable  day.  What  a  tale  did  these  un- 
wonted sounds  tell,  and  how  were  they  fitted  to  fill  the 
heart  with  wondering  joy — with  adoring  gratitude !  But 
a  short  time  had  passed  since  we  used  to  be  shocked  by 
hearing  the  coarse  and  filthy  songs  of  abandoned  sailors, 
and  the  liellish  revelry  of  tlie  night-dance.  How  changed 
now  !  What  power  on  earth  could  have  effected  such  a 
change  ?  No ;  it  was  not  man  that  did  it.  The  light  of 
heaven  had  penetrated  these  dark  minds,  and  revealed  to 
these  anxious  souls  the  misery  and  ruin  into  which  sin 
had  brought  them,  and  the  truth  of  God,  applied  by  the 
Holy  Spirit,  had  subdued  and  broken  their  hard  hearts. 
Hence  they  mourned  and  were  in  bitterness,  as  one  that 
mourueth  and  is  in  bitterness  for  a  first-born,  and  sought 


142  FIRST  DEATH  IN  THE  CHURCH. 

with  intense  desire  after  Him  who  came  to  heal  the 
broken-hearted.  Throngh  the  whole  night  the  state  of 
things  just  described  continued  to  a  greater  or  less  degree. 
The  last  sounds  we  heard  before  retiring  to  rest,  and  the 
first  that  fell  upon  our  ears  in  the  morning,  were  still 
the  same.  It  seemed  as  if  some  must,  after  the  example 
of  Him  whom  they  sought,  have  continued  aU  night  in 
prayer  to  God. 

The  next  Sabbath,  March  the  8th,  was  very  similar  to 
that  just  described.  Overflowing  congregations  listened 
to  the  Divine  message,  and  the  power  of  God  appeared  to 
accompany  the  services  of  the  day. 

During  this  month  the  first  death  occurred  among  our 
church  members.  Letuli,  the  chief  of  the  Vaitongi  dis- 
trict, died  after  an  illness  of  three  or  four  months.  He 
was  one  of  the  seven  chiefs  of  the  island  of  the  same  rank 
as  Maunga.  Before  he  became  a  decided  Christian,  he  was 
said  to  have  been  an  overbearing,  tjTannical  man,  but 
after  his  conversion  he  was  remarkable  for  humility  and 
meekness ;  so  that  there  was  no  mistaking  that  he  was  a 
changed  man.  Old  things  had  passed  away,  and  all  things 
externally  had  become  new,  and  everything  about  him 
indicated  that  a  corresponding  internal  change  had  taken 
place.  He  appeared  to  have  a  very  deep  sense  of  his  own 
weakness  and  unworthiness,  and  a  high  appreciation  of 
the  Saviour  in  whom  he  trusted.  Frequently  during  his 
illness  he  would  exclaim — "  Oh,  may  I  remain  steadfast 
to  the  end ;  may  I  cleave  to  Christ  to  the  end ! "  His 
last  words,  uttered  about  ten  minutes  before  his  death, 
were  —  "I  cannot  speak  much,  but  my  mind  is  upon 
Jesus ;  may  I  cleave  to  the  cross  of  Christ ! "  And  so 
he  passed  away,  and  entered,  as  we  trust,  into  the  presence 
of  Jesus. 

The  examples  of  such  men  as  Pomare  and  Letuli,  chiefs 


INFLUENCE  OF  CHRISTIAN  CHARACTER.      143 

of  the  highest  rank,  exerted  a  mighty  influence  for  good. 
There  was  no  attempt  to  exercise  their  authority  as  cliiefs 
in  matters  of  religion  and  conscience,  hut  their  lives  spoke 
and  hore  evidence,  which  no  doubt  influenced  many,  of  the 
power  and  excellence  of  the  rehgion  which  had  wrought 
such  a  marvellous  change  in  them. 


(  1+4) 


CHAPTER  XX. 

KETURN  OF  THE  "  CAMDEN  " — THE  DEATH  OF  MESSRS  WILLIAMS  AND  HARRIS 
— ARRIVAL  OF  MESSRS  SLATTER  AND  HARBUTT,  AND  MR  LUNDIE — EFFECT 
OF  THE  NEWS  OF  MR  WILLIAMS'  DEATH  UPON  THE  NATIVES — A  HURRI- 
CANE— A  MISSIONARY  SCENE — VISIT  TO  UPOLU— IMPORTANT  DELIBERA- 
TIONS AND  DECISION  RESPECTING  THE  "  CAMDEN  " — DEPARTURE  ON  A 
SECOND   MISSIONARY  VOYAGE. 

On  Saturday,  March  the  14th,  I  went  to  Leone,  intend- 
ing to  spend  the  Sabbath  there.  Something  very  diffe- 
rent, however,  awaited  me  to  spending,  as  I  had  hoped, 
a  quiet  Sabbath  at  Leone.  Very  early  in  the  morning, 
before  or  about  daybreak,  I  was  aroused  by  an  announce- 
ment that  a  messenger  had  arrived  from  Pangopango — a 
startling  announcement,  as  a  messenger  would  certainly 
not  have  been  sent  from  that  quarter  during  the  night, 
unless  something  of  a  serious  character  had  occurred; 
and  I  soon  found  that  something  serious  had  occurred. 
The  "  Camden  "  had  arrived  bringing  sad  tidings — tidings 
wliich  fell  upon  us  like  a  thunder-clap — Mr  Williams 
was  dead ! — he  and  Mr  Harris  had  been  murdered  by  the 
Eramangans.  With  a  heavy  heart  I  returned  to  Pango- 
pango, my  mind  occupied  almost  exclusively  with  the  sad 
subject  during  the  whole  journey.  Either  the  messenger 
did  not  tell  me,  or  I  was  so  much  engrossed  with  the  one 
thing,  that  I  was  not  aware  that  there  was  so  much  con- 
nected with  the  arrival  of  the  vessel  to  alleviate  the  deep 
sorrow  caused  by  the  blow  that  had  so  unexpectedly  fallen 


ALLE  VIA  TIONS.  1 45 

upon  us.  Hence  I  was  the  more  cheered  and  relieved  to 
find  that  all  was  not  dark  connected  with  the  arrival  of 
the  vessel.  She  had  brought  a  valuable  reinforcement  to 
our  mission.  This  consisted  of  the  Eev.  W.  Harbutt  and 
Mrs  Harbutt,  the  Eev.  Thomas  Slatyer  and  Mrs  Slatyer, 
and  a  dear  young  friend  of  my  own,  Mr  George  Archibald 
Lundie. 

Mr  Lundie  was  the  son  of  the  Eev.  Eobert  Lundie  of 
Kelso.  His  father  had  gone  to  his  rest  many  years 
when  his  son  left  his  native  shores  in  quest  of  health. 
He  was  a  young  man  of  rare  promise,  and  when  he 
reached  Tutuila  he  looked  healthy  and  vigorous.  He  had 
been  studying  with  a  view  to  entering  the  Christian 
ministry,  but  failure  of  health  had  induced  him  to  accom- 
pany an  elder  brother  who  was  coming  to  Australia  in 
the  hope  that  the  mildness  of  the  climate  would,  by  the 
blessing  of  God,  restore  him  to  health.  In  Sydney  he  had 
consulted  with  friends,  and  had  been  advised  to  come  on 
in  the  "  Camden  "  to  the  still  more  mild  climate  of  Samoa, 
It  afforded  us  great  pleasure  to  receive  our  dear  young 
friend,  and  to  have  it  in  our  power  to  show  him  kindness. 
Between  his  surviving  parent,  Mrs  Lundie  Duncan,  and 
myself  there  had  existed  a  warm  friendship  for  a  long 
course  of  years,  and  I  was  indebted  to  her  for  many 
favours.  Hence  it  was  a  high  gratification  to  us  to  have 
her  son  under  our  roof,  and  in  that  way  to  be  able  to 
make  some  return  for  her  kindnesses. 

I  reached  home  about  10.  a.m.,  just  before  the  close  of  the 
morning  service.  "When  the  service  was  over  we  listened 
with  the  deepest  interest  to  the  tragic  account  of  what  had 
occurred  at  Eramanga,  and  felt  much  as  we  thought  of  the 
bearing  of  the  sad  event  on  the  cause  of  God,  and  on  the 
widow  and  family  of  him  who  had  been  so  unexpect- 
edly taken  from  us.  The  effect  produced  upon  the 
natives  by  the  intelligence  was  remarkable.      A  single 

K 


146  EFFECT  UPON  THE  NA  TIVES. 

individual  went  off  to  the  vessel  soon  after  she  got  to 
anchor  on  Saturday,  the  day  of  her  arrival,  and  when  he 
got  alongside  and  was  told  what  had  occurred,  his  paddle 
dropped  from  his  hands  into  the  water,  as  if  he  had  been 
shot,  and,  as  the  news  spread,  all  was  consternation.  The 
congregation  had  managed  to  restrain  their  feelings  to  a 
great  extent  during  the  morning  service  on  Sabbath,  but  in 
the  afternoon  there  was  such  a  scene  as  had  not  I  think  been 
before  witnessed  on  Tutuila.  It  was  towards  the  close  of 
the  service,  when  I  was  reminding  the  people  of  their  obli- 
gations to  Mr  Williams  as 

"  The  first  that  ever  bore 
Glad  tidings  to  tlieir  distant  shore," 

that  their  feelings  became  altogether  ungovernable,  and 
there  was  a  general  burst  of  weeping.  Many  of  the 
people  had  recently  learnt  to  value,  beyond  all  price,  the 
glad  tidings  which  he  had  borne  to  them.  Hence  their 
feelings  towards  him,  which  led  them  thus  to  mourn  over 
lus  tragic  end. 

We  closed  the  painfully  interesting  Sabbath  with  a 
prayer-meeting  in  English,  at  which  were  present  all  the 
newly-arrived  friends,  with  Captain  and  Mrs  Morgan ;  and, 
on  the  following  day,  it  was  arranged  that  we  should  all 
proceed  to  Upolu  to  be  j)resent  at  the  general  meeting  of 
the  mission  that  it  would  be  necessary  to  hold  on  the 
arrival  of  the  vessel,  and  at  which  subjects  of  great 
importance  would  need  to  be  considered  and  arranged. 

It  was  expected  that  we  should  have  got  off  on  the 
following  day,  Tuesday.  Instead  of  that,  however,  we  were 
detained  for  nearly  a  week ;  and  well  it  was  that  we  were 
prevented  from  leaving  the  harbour  at  the  time  we  had 
intended.  One  of  our  South  Sea  hurricanes  came  upon 
us.  Happily  it  found  more  than  half  of  the  newly-arrived 
friends  on  shore,  as  we  could  have  no  intercourse  with  the 


A  HURRICANE.  147 

ship  during  its  continuance.     Mr  and  Mrs  Harbutt  only 
remained  on  board. 

On  the  evening  of  Tuesday  the  -wind  blew  so  fiercely, 
and  our  house  creaked  and  shook  to  such  a  degree  under 
the  furious  gusts  that  ever  and  anon  came  upon  it,  that 
we  thought  it  advisable  to  seek  shelter  elsewhere.  This  we 
found  in  an  unfinished  house  which  was  in  the  course  of 
building,  in  the  rear  of  the  other,  and  sheltered  by  it.  It 
consisted  of  little  besides  a  roof,  but  by  the  prompt  efforts 
of  our  kind  natives,  who  at  such  times  are  specially 
considerate,  it  was  soon  surrounded  by  braided  cocoanut 
leaves;  and  partitions  of  native  cloth  were  extemporised, 
and  so  we  and  our  newly-arrived  friends  were  accommo- 
dated in  true  missionary  style.  To  them  it  was  an 
interesting  but  rather  rough  initiation  to  missionary  life. 
On  the  following  day  the  gale  had  moderated  considerably, 
and  our  dwelling-house  had  weathered  the  storm,  so  we 
were  able  to  return  to  civilised  life. 

During  the  remainder  of  the  week  we  enjoyed  much 
delightful  intercourse  with  our  newly- arrived  friends,  and 
they  had  an  opportunity  of  observing  the  state  of  things 
among  the  people.  "V\1iile  they  w^ere  wdth  us  a  Church 
meeting  was  held  at  wliich  we  had  the  largest  addition 
to  our  number  that  we  had  ever  received  at  one  time — 
thirty  persons.  The  Sabbath  was  a  day  of  deep  and  hallowed 
interest.  In  the  morning,  at  the  close  of  the  service,  we 
observed  the  ordinance  of  the  Lord's  Supper  with  tha 
natives,  and  truly  it  was  a  memorable  season;  and  at 
noon  Mr  Slatyer  preached  a  sermon  that  was  well  fitted 
to  deepen  the  impressions  which  the  morning  service  had 
produced.  A  prayer-meeting  in  English,  in  the  evening, 
closed  the  services  of  the  day. 

On  Monday,  March  the  28th,  we  sailed  for  Upolu, 
which  we  reached  on  the  Wednesday  following.  As  soon  as 
the  brethren  got  together  from  the  different  stations,  which 


148    ARRANGEMENTS  FOR  A  SECOND  VOYAGE. 

was  not  till  the  next  week,  we  met  for  business.  The  one 
subject  of  difficulty  and  responsibility  with  which  we  had 
to  deal,  was  the  course  to  be  adopted  with  reference  to 
the  "  Camden,"  which  by  the  death  of  Mr  Williams  was 
thrown  into  our  hands,  and  we  had  no  authority  to  take 
any  action  in  the  matter.  The  Directors  of  the  London 
Missionary  Society  had  given  Mr  Williams  sole  authority 
over  her,  and  no  provision  had  been  made  to  meet  such  an 
emergency  as  had  now  arisen;  but  something  Tnustho.  done, 
and  some  parties  must  take  the  responsibility  of  acting. 
Our  mission,  though  the  youngest  in  the  South  Seas,  was 
the  largest;  and  the  providence  of  God  had  placed  the 
vessel  in  our  hands,  so  we  determined  to  act  according  to 
the  best  of  our  judgment. 

The  course  resolved  upon  was  that  the  vessel  should  be 
kept  employed  in  the  work  for  which  she  had  been  pur- 
chased, till  the  mind  of  the  Directors  should  be  known ; 
and,  in  accordance  with  this  resolution,  we  appointed  the 
senior  member  of  our  mission,  Mr  Heath,  to  take  a  voyage 
forthwith  in  order  to  visit  the  islands,  Eotuma  and  Tanna, 
on  which  Mr  Williams  had  placed  teachers,  and  to  attempt 
to  occupy  new  ground,  as  the  providence  of  God  might 
bpen  the  way.  ]\Ir  Heath  took  a  very  grave  view  of  the 
step  we  were  taking,  as,  indeed,  did  we  all.  He  expressed 
his  wTllingness  to  comply  with  the  request  of  his  bretliren 
on  three  conditions,  viz. : — 1st,  That  his  station  should  be 
looked  after  during  his  absence ;  2nd,  That  we  should 
follow  him  with  our  prayers ;  and  3rd,  If  he  should 
fall,  another  should  follow.  There  was  no  hesitancy  in 
agreeing  to  these  conditions,  so  the  thing  was  settled. 

The  only  other  business  of  much  importance  that  occu- 
pied the  meeting  was  the  location  of  the  newly-arrived  breth- 
ren, and  this  was  arranged  without  difficulty.  Mr  Harbutt 
was  appointed  to  commence  a  new  station  on  Upolu, 
embracing  a  large  district  on  the  east  end  of  the  island, 


MESSI^S  IIARBUTT  AND  SLATYER.  149 

having  a  population  of  some  5000  or  GOOO  people.  He 
chose  as  his  place  of  residence  Lepa,  a  village  about  the 
centre  of  the  district ;  and  there  for  many  years  he  lived 
and  laboured,  till  })odily  infirmity  compelled  him  most 
reluctantly  to  leave  the  mission  field ;  and  after  a  brief 
term  of  service  at  home,  his  work  was  done,  and  he  entered, 
we  doubt  not,  into  the  joy  of  his  Lord, 

Mr  Slatyer,  to  our  great  joy,  was  appointed  to  the  vacant 
station  at  Leone.  And,  as  soon  as  Mr  Heath's  preparations 
for  his  voyage  were  completed,  we  sailed  for  Tutuila,  whence 
he  was  to  take  his  final  departure  for  Samoa  on  his  important 
enterprise.  We  sailed  on  the  lOth  of  April,  and  anchored 
in  Leone  Bay  on  the  evening  of  Monday  the  13th.  There 
w^e  remained  but  one  night.  On  the  14th,  Mr  Slatyer's 
goods  were  landed,  and  the  vessel  went  on  to  Pangopango, 
leaving  some  of  us  at  Leone  who  preferred  going  to 
Pangopango  by  land.  The  whole  mission  party  went 
there  for  the  present — Mr  Lundie  to  make  it  his  home  for 
an  indefinite  time,  Mr  and  Mrs  Slatyer  to  remain  with  us 
for  a  few  weeks  till  they  might  get  a  little  acquaintance 
with  the  language,  and  a  little  insight  into  practical  mis- 
sionary life. 

All  was  interest  and  excitement  on  Tutuila  on  the 
return  of  the  vessel.  The  people  of  the  Leone  district 
were  delighted  that  they  had  got  a  missionary ;  and  the 
projected  missionary  voyage  awakened  great  interest,  and 
the  fact  that  a  number  of  teachers  had  to  be  selected  to 
join  those  whom  Mr  Heath  had  brought  from  the  Leeward,* 
was  a  matter  of  special  concern  to  many.  The  selection 
of  the  teachers  was  the  first  business  that  required  to  be 
attended  to,  so  the  subject  was  laid  before  the  teachers 
of  the  Pangopango  district,  sixteen  in  number,  and  they 

Easterly  winds  prevail  during  three-fourths  or  more  of  the  year ;  the 
islands  Upolu,  Savaii,  and  Mauouo  lie  to  the  \Yest  of  Tutuila  ;  hence  we 
call  them  the  Leeward  Islands. 


ISO  SELECTION  OF  TEACHERS. 

were  requested  to  consider  the  matter  and  let  us  know  who 
among  them  were  willing  to  consecrate  themselves  unto 
the  Lord  for  the  proposed  service.  The  result  of  their  con- 
sultation was  that  they  were  all  ready  for  the  service,  and 
they  left  it  with  us  to  make  tlie  selection.  The  subject 
was  laid  before  the  teachers  of  the  Leone  district  also, 
and  of  them,  six  offered  their  services.  Of  these,  one, 
Taniela,  was  chosen ;  and  from  those  of  the  other  district 
we  chose  four — Pomare,  Fauvasa,  Pangisa,  and  Vaiofanga. 
Preparations  for  departure  were  made  forthwith,  and,  on 
the  afternoon  of  Wednesday  the  15th,  a  farewell  service 
was  held.  Mr  Heath  preached  Pomare  and  Fauvasa  gave 
addresses,  and  the  ordinance  of  the  Lord's  Supper  was  ad- 
ministered. The  occasion  was  deeply  interesting,  but  very 
mingled,  of  course,  were  our  feelings.  There  was  gladness, 
no  doubt,  but  there  was  also  great  solemnity  not  unmingled 
with  a  tinge  of  sadness.  Those  who  were  about  to  leave 
us  were  going  to  the  very  islands  on  one  of  which  the 
tragic  deeds  had  been  enacted  the  news  of  which  had  so 
recently  reached  us.  Very  little  was  known  about  these 
islands  at  the  time,  and  what  was  known  was  the  reverse 
of  assuring  or  inviting.  Our  friends  were  indeed  going 
forth  as  lambs  in  the  midst  of  wolves.  And  they  were 
going  alone,  leaving  behind  them  their  wives  and  children, 
and  all  that  on  earth  they  held  dear ;  bidding  what  might 
very  probably  prove  a  final  farewell  to  all. 

And  so  indeed  it  proved  in  the  case  of  some.  Four  of  the 
teachers  never  did  return.  Pomare,  as  already  mentioned, 
died  on  Tanna ;  Taniela  died  on  Upolu  on  his  way  back 
from  the  field  of  foreign  service ;  and  two  of  the  teachers 
from  the  Leeward,  Taniela*  and  Lasalo,  after  enduring 
great  hardships  on  the  island  of  Eramanga,  were  murdered 
on  the  Isle  of  Pines,  to  which  tliey  had  been  removed 
from  the  inhospitable  shores  of  Eramanga.     Alas !  those 

*  There  were  two  Tanielas  in  the  party. 


FAREWELL  SCENES.  15 X 

to  which  they  were  conveyed  proved  more  inhospitable 
still. 

Preparations  for  the  departure  of  the  expedition  were 
completed  on  the  day  following  the  farewell  service,  and, 
on  the  next  day,  Friday,  April  the  17th,  the  "  Camden  " 
sailed  on  her  second  missionary  voyage,  followed  by  the 
prayers  and  best  wishes  of  thousands  throughout  Samoa. 
Her  departure  is  thus  noticed  in  my  journal: — "A  memor- 
able day.  The  '  Camden '  sailed  on  her  important  enter- 
prise about  mid- day.  Ever  since  it  was  known  that 
Pomare  and  others  were  going,  the  whole  village  has  been 
in  a  state  of  excitement,  and  a  large  part  of  the  island 
besides.  And,  as  the  time  of  departure  drew  near,  the 
excitement  seemed  to  rise  higher  and  higher.  The  scene 
on  board  was  very  affecting.  The  teachers  and  their 
relations  and  friends,  while  they  manifested  very  deep 
feeling,  conducted  themselves  with  great  propriety.  They 
seemed  to  realise  pretty  fully  their  circumstances,  but  they 
bore  up  wonderfully." 

After  we  had  committed  ourselves  to  the  care  and 
blessing  of  Him  "whom  winds  and  seas  obey,"  we  bade 
each  other  an  affectionate  farewell,  and  parted ;  we  re- 
turning to  our  quiet  home,  and  the  "Camden"  party  setting 
forth  on  their  lofty  errand  of  mercy. 


(  152  ) 


CHAPTEE  XXI. 

GENERAL  EEMAEKS — STATE  AND  PROSPECTS  OP  THE  WORK — VISIT  TO  LEONE 
WITH  MR  SLATYER — STATE  OF  THINGS  THERE — ADDITIONS  TO  THE  CHURCH 
— MISSIONARY  MEETINGS — FIRST  C0NTRIBDT10N3  TO  THE  MISSIONARY 
CAUSE — PECULIARLY  INTERESTING  CHARACTER  OF  THE  MEETINGS — GREAT 
AWAKENING  AT  LEONE — EFFECT  UPON  THE  PANGOPANGO  DISTRICT. 

On  no  part  of  our  missionary  life  do  we  look  back  with 
deeper  interest  and  fonder  recollections  than  that  wliich  is 
now  to  pass  under  review.  The  awakening  had  not  yet, 
indeed,  reached  its  height,  and  the  number  whom  we 
could  regard  as  having  decidedly  passed  from  death  unto 
life  was  comparatively  small ;  still  the  state  of  things  was 
intensely  interesting.  Eeligious  concern  was  general  over 
a  large  part  of  the  island,  and  it  was  steadily  deepen- 
ing and  extending.  The  thii-st  after  the  means  of  grace 
seemed  insatiable,  and  multitudes  flocked  from  all  quarters 
to  hear  the  gospel,  and  wait  upon  God  in  the  services  of 
the  sanctuary.  And  how  full  of  promise  was  everything 
for  the  future  !  It  resembled  an  advanced  spring,  when 
the  trees  are  covered  with  blossoms,  fragrant  and  beautiful, 
and  are  giving  promise  of  an  ample  harvest. 

And  not  least  among  the  things  that  contributed  to 
invest  the  period  of  wliich  I  ^Tite  with  special  interest, 
and  to  make  it  perhaps  tlie  brightest  spot  in  all  the  past, 
was  the  society  and  intercourse  which  we  enjoyed  with 
our  newly-arrived  friends,  Mr  and  Mrs  Slatyer  and  Mr 


DWELLING  TOGETHER  IN  UNITY.  153 

Liindie.  They  were  characters  wliom  to  know  was  to 
esteem  and  love  ;  and  they  were  at  once  in  sucli  full  sym- 
pathy with  the  state  of  things  which  they  found  among 
the  people  on  tlieir  arrival,  and  we  were  so  entirely  one  in 
heart,  that  our  intercourse  was  of  such  a  character  as  is 
seldom  found  in  this  imperfect  state.  "We  lived  together 
and  laboured  together  in  peace  and  love,  and  the  God 
of  love  and  peace  was  with  us.  As  a  morning  without 
clouds,  bright  and  beautiful  were  the  early  months  of  our 
connection  with  our  beloved  friends ;  but  such  a  state 
of  things  is  not  for  a  permanence  in  this  changing  world. 
It  was  too  good  to  last,  too  much  like  that  which  lies 
beyond  to  be  long  continued.  Nothing,  indeed,  ever 
occurred  to  disturb  the  harmony  that  subsisted  among 
ourselves ;  but  trials,  great  and  manifold,  soon  overtook 
us,  and  broke  up  and  separated  our  happy  circle,  and  pain- 
fully reminded  us  of  the  "  much  tribulation "  through 
which  the  way  to  the  kingdom  lies.  But  I  will  not 
further  anticipate. 

Mr  Slatyer  and  I  took  an  early  opportunity  of  visiting 
Leone.  We  spent  a  Sabbath  there,  and  were  pleased  and 
encouraged  by  what  we  saw  and  heard.  The  blessing 
seemed  drawing  nearer  and  nearer.  At  Pangopango  we 
continued  to  have  marked  progress.  Every  month  we 
had  additions  to  the  Church.  Much  of  my  time  was  spent 
in  conversing  with  the  awakened,  who  crowded  upon  me 
from  all  rpiarters  ;  while  Mr  and  JMrs  Slatyer  and  ]\Ir 
Lundie  were  applying  themselves  with  all  diligence  to  the 
study  of  the  native  language,  and  longing  for  the  time 
when  they  should  be  able  to  take  a  direct  part  in  tlie 
work  on  which  their  hearts  were  set. 

Towards  the  close  of  this  month.  May,  we  had  our 
annual  missionary  services.  They  were  held  at  Pango- 
pango on  the  last  "Wednesday  of  the  month.  The  people 
flocked  together  from  all  parts  of  the  island,  so  we  had  a 


1 54  FIRST  MISSIONAR  V  CONTRIBUTIOiYS. 

very  large  gathering.  The  late  events  connected  with  the 
return  of  the  "  Camden  "  from  her  first  missionary  voyage, 
and  her  departure  on  her  second  with  a  number  of  their 
own  people  for  foreign  service,  invested  our  meetings  this 
year  with  special  interest.  And  there  was  the  presence 
of  the  new  missionaries,  and  above  all,  there  was  the  fact 
that  God  was  powerfully  at  work  among  us.  Many  had 
recently  found  rest  in  Christ,  and  were  all  aglow  with  love 
and  zeal,  longing  to  tell  to  sinners  far  and  near  what  a 
precious  Saviour  they  had  found ;  others  were  anxious 
inquirers  and  seekers;  and  the  bulk  of  the  people  had  their 
interest  more  or  less  aroused  with  reference  to  religious 
matters. 

As  the  numbers  that  assembled  were  far  greater  than 
the  chapel  could  contain,  we  had  two  services  in  the 
morning  at  the  same  hour,  one  in  the  chapel  and  one 
outside.  Both  congregations  were  addressed  from  the 
same  text,  Isaiah  Ixi.  1,  After  the  morning  services  the 
people  brought  their  contributions.  They  had  no  money, 
but  they  gave  liberally  of  such  things  as  they  had.  Their 
offerings  consisted  of  a  quantity  of  arrowroot,  about  2000 
lbs.,  fifty-two  pieces  of  native  cloth,  and  twelve  fine  mats. 
These,  the  mats,  are  the  most  valuable  property,  in  their 
estimation,  that  they  possess — their  gold  as  they  used  to 
style  them,  after  they  became  acquainted  with  gold.  Such 
was  the  first  missionary  collection  made  on  Tutuila,  not 
a  great  matter  in  itself,  but  interesting  as  being  the  first 
effort  of  the  kind — the  first  link  of  a  chain  extending  down- 
wards to  the  present  time. 

After  the  contributions  had  been  made,  we  had  another 
public  meeting.  It  was  held  in  the  open  air.  Many 
stirring  speeches  were  made.  One  speaker  after  another 
poured  fortli  words  of  life  and  power  till  rain  and  dark- 
ness compelled  us  to  break  up  before  the  interest  appeared 
to  have  reached  its   height,  much  less  begun  to  abate. 


PROMISING  INDICATIONS.  155 

There  seemed  no  danger  of  the  people  getting  weary  of 
long  sermons,  prayers,  or  speeches  in  those  times  when  all 
was  fresh  and  full  of  life,  so  long  as  they  were  of  the  right 
kind. 

One  of  the  newly-arrived  missionary  party,  noticing  the 
insatiable  thirst  which  there  seemed  to  be  among  the  people 
after  spiritual  things,  suggested  that  another  meeting 
should  be  held  on  the  following  morning.  The  suggestion 
was  adopted,  and  we  met  at  6.30  a.m.  on  Thursday,  and 
had  a  service  full  of  interest  and  promise,  after  which 
many  of  the  people  departed  for  their  respective  homes, 
carrying  with  them  impressions  which,  I  doubt  not,  proved 
abiding  in  the  case  of  some. 

Many  remained,  loath  to  leave  the  place  which  had 
proved  to  them  a  Bethel,  and  waited  for  the  Friday  and 
Sabbath  services.  Hence  at  these  we  had  very  large  con- 
gregations, and  equally  hopeful  indications  as  those  which 
had  already  appeared. 

These  services,  with  the  May  meetings,  seemed  to  have 
a  direct  and  easily  traceable  connection  with  the  extension 
of  the  awakening  to  the  Leone  district.  Seven  months 
had  passed  since  it  commenced.  It  had  spread  to  many 
parts,  both  far  and  near,  in  the  Pangopango  district ;  but 
that  of  Leone,  except  the  village  of  Vaitongi,  was  very 
slightly  moved  as  yet.  Now  the  time  to  favour  it  had 
come,  and  among  the  secondary  causes  which  operated 
upon  it,  the  services  and  meetings  just  referred  to  had,  I 
doubt  not,  an  important  place. 

On  Thursday,  June  the  3d,  Mr  Slatyer  and  I  went  to 
Leone,  and  remained  nearly  a  week;  and  such  a  week  it 
proved !  It  seemed  as  if  the  windows  of  heaven  were 
opened,  and  a  more  abundant  blessing  poured  out  than 
there  was  room  to  receive.  On  the  Friday  a  large  con- 
gregation assembled,  and  was  addressed  from  2  Cor.  v.  17. 
At  this  service  there  were   more   decisive   symptoms  of 


1 56  A  GREA  T  A  WAKENING  A  T  LEONE. 

an  approaching  awakening  tlian  had  before  appeared. 
Saturday  was  an  important  day — a  "preparation  day" 
in  the  best  sense.  A  Church  meeting  was  held  in  the 
afternoon,  at  which  eight  new  members  were  received,  and 
a  most  desirable  spirit  was  manifested;  and  during  the 
evening  there  was  much  prayer,  and  large  desires  and 
expectations  were  awakened  in  the  hearts  of  many.  To 
compare  small  things  with  great,  I  fancy  it  somewhat 
resembled  the  night  that  preceded  the  great  awakening  at 
the  Kirk  of  Shotts  in  1630. 

The  Sabbath  came,  and  the  same  prayerful,  expectant 
spirit  appeared  that  liad  been  manifested  on  the  previous 
evening.  The  congregation  in  the  morning  was  large; 
little,  if  at  all,  short  of  a  thousand.  At  the  commence- 
ment of  the  service  there  was  a  marked  solemnity  and 
stillness  throurdiout  the  congregation,  and  during  the 
prayer  before  the  sermon  many  were  much  moved,  and  were 
scarcely  able  to  restrain  their  feelings.  The  text  was  from 
Isaiah  xxx.  18,  first  clause  of  the  verse:  "And  therefore 
will  the  Lord  wait,  that  He  may  be  gracious."  As  the  dis- 
course proceeded,  the  feeling  swelled  higher  and  higher, 
till,  like  a  pent-up  flood,  it  burst  forth,  and  there  was  such 
a  scene  as  I  had  not  before  witnessed.  Very  many  were 
quite  prostrated,  and  others  were  seized  with  violent  con- 
vulsions. This  was  a  new  feature  of  our  awakening.  The 
afternoon  service  was  very  similar  to  that  of  the  morning. 

Amojig  those  who  were  aroused  was  one  case  specially 
remarkable.  It  was  that  of  the  wife  of  Teava,  the  Earo- 
tongan  teacher.  She  had  been  a  very  indifferent  character 
hitherto.  Mr  Buzacott  did  not  admit  her  to  the  Church 
at  Earotonga,  but  she  had  been  received  in  Samoa  by 
Messrs  Piatt  and  Wilson  before  our  arrival.  Her  real 
character,  however,  was  unchanged;  and  to  lier  husband 
and  others  with  whom  she  had  to  do,  she  continued  to  be 
an  occasion  of  great  annoyance.     She  had  been  so  bad  at 


A  STRIKING  CASE.  157 

Tutiiila  that  Tve  liad  felt  constrained  to  suspend  her  from 
the  fellowship  of  the  Church.  She  had  gone  the  length  of 
mocking  some  who  had  been  aroused  during  the  awaken- 
ing. Now  she  herself  was  constrained  to  give  way.  She 
was  among  the  number  of  those  who  "  were  pricked  to  the 
heart,"  and  made  to  feel  themselves  helpless  and  perishing 
sinners  on  this  day  of  the  Lord's  power  among  us.  And 
the  issue  was  such  as  to  prove  her  repentance  genuine. 
From  that  day  fortli  she  appeared  "a  new  creature,  old 
things  having  passed  away,  and  all  things  having  become 
new."  Tlie  change  was  marvellous.  From  being  a  bold, 
self-righteous,  overbearing  woman,  near  whom  nobody 
could  live  in  peace,  she  became  meek,  quiet,  and  for- 
bearing, and  she  held  fast  her  integrity  for  a  long  course  of 
years.  As  mentioned  in  a  former  chapter,  I  saw  her  at 
her  own  home  at  Earotonga  in  1869,  about  thirty  years 
from  the  time  of  which  I  write ;  and,  for  aught  I  know,  she 
still  lives,  and  maintains  a  consistent  Christian  course. 
Such  cases  as  hers  confirm  the  truth  of  a  remark  that  has 
often  been  made  with  reference  to  great  awakenings — viz., 
that  at  such  times  characters  are  often  reached  that, 
under  ordinary  circumstances,  continue  hardened  and  im- 
penitent. 

The  Sabbath  closed  upon  large  numbers  still  in  deep 
distress,  and  at  break  of  day  on  Monday,  the  voice  of 
mourning  and  lamentation  had  scarcely  ceased  to  be  heard. 
Such  was  the  state  of  things,  that  we  thought  it  well  to 
have  another  meeting  on  Monday  afternoon.  Very  few  of 
those  who  were  with  us  on  Sabbath  had  left,  so  we  had 
again  a  large  congTegation.  It  was  impossible  to  converse 
individually  with  the  large  number  of  anxious  souls  who 
had  just  been  aroused.  Hence  the  importance  of  getting 
them  together  in  order  to  address  to  them  w^ords  of 
counsel,  and  offer  united  prayer  for  the  teaching  and 
guidance  of  the  Holy  Spirit.      Our  native   assistants  as 


158  DISTRESS  OF  THE  AWAKENED. 

yet  were  but  babes,  and  of  course  able  to  do  very  little 
in  the  way  of  instructing  and  counselling  the  awakened ; 
and  Mr  Slatyer  was  not  yet  able  to  speak  in  the  native 
language.  Hence  we  seemed  shut  up  to  multiply  public 
meetings. 

There  was  again  an  astonishing  commotion  during  the 
meeting,  and  at  night  every  family  seemed  to  be  mourning 
apart.  The  words  of  the  prophet  Zechariah  were  strikingly 
appropriate :  "  They  shall  look  upon  Me  whom  they  have 
jjierced,  and  they  shall  mourn  for  Him,  as  one  mourneth 
for  his  only  son,  and  shall  be  in  bitterness  for  Him  as  one 
that  is  in  bitterness  for  a  first-born."  And  again,  "The 
land  shall  mourn,  every  family  apart." 

On  the  following  day,  Tuesday,  we  had  no  public  meet- 
ing ;  but  on  Wednesday  afternoon  we  again  met  the  people 
in  the  chapel.  All  was  still  and  solemn  throughout 
almost  the  whole  of  the  service.  The  stillness  was  death- 
like. It  was  broken  only  by  the  occasional  sighs  and 
groans  of  burdened  souls.  On  the  following  afternoon, 
Thursday,  we  had  another  meeting  similar  in  character  to 
those  that  preceded.  It  was  now  the  sixth  day  since  the 
awakening  commenced,  and  it  was  still  deepening  and 
extending.  Young  and  old,  high  and  low,  were  mourning 
over  their  sins,  and  seeking  mercy  with  the  earnestness 
which  a  clear  view  of  sin  unforgiven  inspires.  When  the 
Holy  Spirit  convicts  of  sin  and  of  judgment,  and  shows 
the  need  of  a  Divine  refuge  to  shelter  from  the  impending 
doom,  tlien  men  are  in  earnest — "  no  room  for  mirth  or  trifl- 
ing "  then,  and  no  room  for  peace  either,  till  He  is  found 
"  who  is  a  hiding-place  from  the  storm,  and  a  covert  from 
the  tempest."  As  yet,  few  of  the  recently  awakened  had 
found  their  way  to  the  Eefuge.  They  saw  themselves 
guilty,  exposed,  and  helpless,  and  in  many  cases  they  seemed 
to  have  vivid  views  of  impending  ruin;  but  the  way  of 
escape  they  saw  not.     Hence  their  distress,  and  the  earnest- 


EFFECT  UPON  THE  PANGOPANGO  DISTRICT.    159 

ness  with  which  they  cried  for  mercy,  and  sought  for 
deliverance. 

On  Friday,  the  11th,  we  returned  to  Pangopango.  Pan- 
gopango  and  Leone,  as  already  mentioned,  were  enemies  in 
former  days.  Not  a  great  while  before  the  introduction  of 
the  gospel,  there  had  been  war  between  them,  and  the  spirit 
that  had  been  engendered  by  the  strife  had  not  died  out 
when  we  arrived.  How  different  was  the  state  of  things 
now  !  Prom  tlie  commencement  of  the  awakening  at  Pan- 
gopango, the  people  of  that  district  had  longed  and  prayed 
that  the  other  might  share  in  the  blessing.  And  now  that 
their  prayers  were  answered,  and  their  desire  granted,  they 
manifested  the  deepest  interest,  while  they  themselves 
were  encouraged  and  quickened.  President  Edwards 
remarks  in  his  "  Thoughts  "  upon  the  revivals  which  took 
place  in  New  England  in  his  time,  that  nothing  seemed  to 
contribute  more  to  the  deepening  and  extending  of  the 
work,  than  accounts  of  what  God  was  doing  in  different 
parts  of  the  country  ;  and  so  it  seemed  to  be  with  us. 

On  the  Eriday  after  our  return  from  Leone,  instead  of 
preaching  as  usual,  I  gave  an  account  of  what  had  taken 
place  there.  A  good  deal  of  feeling  was  manifested,  but 
it  was  chiefly,  if  not  exclusively,  among  those  v/ho  had 
been  already  awakened.  These  had  their  impressions 
deepened,  and  those  more  advanced  were  stirred  up  to 
lonfT  and  pray  for  themselves  and  others,  that  still  more 
copious  showers  of  blessing  might  descend  upon  us ;  and 
on  the  Sabbath  the  blessing  came.  Erom  the  early 
morning  prayer-meeting  onwards,  a  remarkable  influence 
seemed  to  be  operating.  The  afternoon  service  was  espe- 
cially solemn.  The  people  seemed  to  make  a  gi'eat  effort 
to  restrain  their  feelings,  and  most  of  them  managed  to  do 
so  till  the  close  of  the  service ;  but  when  they  got  outside, 
many  gave  way,  and  hastened  away  to  get  alone  with  God ; 
and  during  the  course  of  the  evening  some  were  missing 


i6o  A  NIGHT  TO  BE  REMEMBERED. 

from  their  families,  and  bad  to  be  sougbt  for  in  tbe  busb, 
to  which  they  bad  retired,  and,  being  overcome  by  their 
feelings,  had  been  unable  to  walk  home. 

Some  time  after  sundown,  I  took  a  walk  round  the  vil- 
lage in  company  with  Mr  Lundie.  It  was  the  hour  of  family 
prayer,  and  the  different  households  were  gathered  around 
their  domestic  altars.  All  can  be  heard  that  is  going  on 
iu  native  houses  by  a  person  outside,  and,  after  nightfall, 
much  can  be  seen  as  well,  while  tliose  inside  are  not 
aware  that  they  are  being  overheard  or  overlooked.  It 
was  most  affecting  to  go  from  bouse  to  house  and  listen 
to  the  simple,  fervent  pleadings  of  their  respective  in- 
mates. Melody,  such  as  angels  love  to  hear,  arose  from 
many  hearts  and  tongues  of  the  dwellers  in  these  lowly 
habitations  during  those  days  of  life  and  power.  "  There 
is  joy  in  the  presence  of  the  angels  of  God  over  one  sinner 
that  repenteth."  As  at  some  former  times,  the  voice  of 
prayer  continued  to  be  heard  from  many  quarters  almost 
aU  through  the  night.  There  was  only  a  break  of  about 
haK-an-hour  near  midnight.  Bodily  fatigue  was  either 
not  felt,  or  it  was  disregarded  in  the  intense  desire  to 
obtain  the  longed-for  blessing. 

I  went  out  to  the  verandah  during  the  night,  and 
listened  awhile  to  the  affecting  sounds  with  feelings 
which  language  cannot  express.  Except  those  sounds, 
all  was  stiU.  The  bay  was  calm  and  placid  as  a  summer 
lake,  and  overhead  was  a  sky  without  a  cloud,  and  a 
moon  near  the  full  shedding  her  silvery  light  over  the 
enchanting  scene.  Island  scenery  is  never  more  beautiful 
than  when  the  moon  walks  in  brightness  in  a  cloudless 
sky,  and  the  cool  and  quiet  of  night  have  taken  the  place 
of  the  heat  and  glare  of  a  tropical  sun.  So  emphatically 
it  appeared  to  me  on  that  never-to-be-forgotten  night. 
More  than  thirty  years  have  passed  since  then,  and  the 
great  bulk   of  the   principal  actors   in  tlie   scenes  then 


AN  ABIDING  IMPRESSION.  i6i 

transpiring  have  passed  away,  but  the  impression  made 
upon  my  mind  by  that  scene  and  by  wliat  was  taking  place 
around  me  lives,  and  will  continue  to  live  till  scenes 
more  lovely  still,  and  with  more  blessed  surroundings, 
shall  open  in  a  land  where  there  are  no  drawbacks,  and 
where  all  the  loved  ones  who  have  gone  before  shall  be 
found  again,  and  severed  bonds  be  reunited  to  be  broken 
no  more. 


(  i62  ) 


CHAPTEE  XXII. 

SPECIAL  SERVICES  AT  PANGOPANGO — MADXGA  BROUGHT  UNDER  CONVICTIONS 
EXTINCTION  OF  HEATHENISM  IN  THE  VILLAGE  OF  PANGOPANGO — MIS- 
SIONARY VOYAGE  TO  SAVAfiE  ISLAND — CASE  OF  PAULO,  A  NAJIVE  OF 
SAVAGE  ISLAND — SECOND  ANNIVERSARY  OF  THE  FORMATION  OF  THE 
CHURCH  AT  PANGOPANGO. 

During  the  week  whicli  followed  the  Sabbath  particularly- 
referred  to  at  the  close  of  the  preceding  chapter,  we  held 
special  services.  Such  was  the  hungering  and  thirsting 
of  the  people  that  we  seemed  shut  up  to  this  course.  The 
more  they  got  the  more  their  desires  seemed  to  be  en- 
larged.. The  word  of  God  was  indeed  precious  in  those 
days.  The  habitation  of  God's  house  was  intensely  loved, 
and  the  place  where  His  honour  dwelleth,  and  there  was 
unmistakable  gladness  when  it  was  said,  "  Let  us  go 
into  the  house  of  the  Lord."  It  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  the  people  were  dependent  upon  the  public  means  of 
grace  to  an  extent  vastly  greater  than  is  the  case  in 
Christian  lands.  They  had  only  detached  portions  of 
the  New  Testament  in  their  hands,  and  they  had  no  other 
books  of  much  account.  Hence  their  circumstances  were 
altogether  peculiar,  and  a  special  adaptation  was  required 
to  meet  them. 

Our  first  special  service  was  held  on  Monday,  June  the 
15th.  One  noticeable  thing  connected  with  it  was  the  large 
number  of  men  who  were  overcome  by  their  feelings. 
TJic]/  were  sooner  overcome,  and  in  larger  numbers,  than 


HE  A  THENISM  EXTINCT  IN  PANGOPANGO.     163 

the  women,  but  the  most  remarkable  tiling  of  all  was,  that 
Maunga,  the  proud,  haughty  Maunga,  who  had  so  recently 
acted  such  an  outrageous  part,  was  among  the  number  of 
those  who  fell  under  the  arrows  of  conviction.  "  Saul  was 
among  the  prophets."  He  was  carried  out  of  the  chapel 
in  a  state  of  complete  prostration.  As  soon  as  he  was 
sufficiently  recovered  to  be  able  to  walk,  he  went  into  tlie 
bush,  where  he  was  afterwards  found  and  assisted  home. 
Nor  did  his  convictions  pass  away  "  like  the  morning-  cloud 
and  the  early  dew,"  as  we  shall  see  by  and  by.  The  meet- 
ings that  were  held  on  the  following  days  of  this  week  were 
similar  to  tliat  of  Monday. 

It  will  surprise  the  reader  to  learn  that,  down  to  this^ 
time,  heathenism  was  represented  in  the  village  of  Pango- 
pango,  notwithstanding  all  that  had  been  in  progress  dur- 
ing the  past  months.  By  ones  and  twos  the  heathen  rem- 
nant had  been  quietly  dropping  into  the  Christian  ranks^ 
and  on  tliis  day,  June  the  15th,  1840,  the  last  yielded,  and 
avowed  himself  a  Christian.  In  some  of  the  more  distant 
villages,  a  considerable  number  held  out  for  years  after 
this  date,  obstinately  resisting  all  the  influence  we  could 
bring  to  bear  upon  them.  This,  of  course,  made  wliat  was 
going  on  elsewliere  all  the  more  remarkable ;  and  made  us 
realise  more  fuUy  than  we  might  otherwise  have  done,  that 
it  is  not  by  might  nor  by  power,  but  by  the  Spirit  of  God 
that  hearts  are  subdued  and  drawn  to  the  Saviour. 

Towards  the  close  of  June,  I  spent  a  Sabbath  at  Leone. 
Mr  Slatyer  had  now  taken  up  his  permanent  alDode  there, 
and  was  able  to  take  a  general  superintendence  of  the 
station,  but  he  was  stiU  glad  of  help.  We  spent  a  very 
pleasant  and  I  trust  profitable  Sabbath  at  Leone ;  and,  on 
the  following  day,  I  returned  to  Pangopango,  being  unable 
to  remain  longer  from  home  for  a  reason  that  will  presently 
appear. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  mission  held  in-  April  1840,  at 


1 64  SA  VA  GE  ISLAND. 

which  we  of  Tutuila  were  unable  to  be  present,  a  minute 
was  adopted  with  reference  to  an  island,  about  three 
hundred  miles  from  Samoa,  of  which  not  very  much  was 
known  at  that  time, — Savage  Island, — to  the  effect  that  an 
effort  should  be  made  to  introduce  the  gospel  to  the  island, 
and  the  carrying  out  of  the  resolution  was  left  to  us  on 
Tutuila.  A  small  vessel  belonging  to  the  mission  which 
had  recently  been  built,  the  "  Samoa,"  was  to  be  placed  at 
our  service ;  we  were  to  furnish  the  teachers,  and  Mr 
Hunkin,  a  young  man  in  connection  w^ith  us  at  the  time, 
an  Englishman  and  a  professing  Christian,  was  to  take 
charge  of  the  expedition.  Mr  H.  had  been  a  sailor,  and 
was  able  to  manage  the  vessel.  Messrs  Williams  and 
Barff  had  called  at  the  island  as  far  back  as  1830,*  when 
on  their  way  to  Samoa,  and  made  an  unsuccessful  attempt 
to  settle  teachers  upon  it ;  and,  since  then,  no  further  steps 
had  been  taken,  though  ]\Ir  Williams  had  intended  to  visit 
the  island  shortly  after  his  return  from  England.  Circum- 
stances prevented  his  carrying  out  his  intention,  and  by 
his  lamented  death  it  fell  to  us  to  undertake  what  he  had 
been  prevented  from  attempting. 

The  "Samoa"  had  arrived  at  Pangopango  after  I  left 
for  Leone,  and,  on  that  account,  I  was  obliged  to  hasten 
home  to  make  the  necessary  arrangements  for  the  voyage. 
These  were  soon  com])leted.  Out  of  the  many  teachers 
who  were  willing  to  go,  four  were  selected.  An  interesting 
farewell  service  was  held,  and  on  the  25th  of  June  the 
party  sailed  on  their  important  but  perilous  undertaking. 
Their  danger  arose  chiefly  from  the  smallness  of  tlie  vessel. 
The  Savage  Islanders  are  bold,  powerful  men,  and  they 
have  large  numbers  of  canoes,  wliich  they  manage  with 
great  dexterity,  and  in  which  they  move  with  great 
celerity.  Hence  it  would  have  been  a  very  simple 
matter  for  them  to  have  surrounded  and  taken  posses- 

*  See  "  Miasionarj'  Enterprises,"  pp.  293-299. 


A  MISSIONARY  VOYAGE.  165 

sion  of  the  little  craft  in  which  our  party  sailed,  and  in 
that  case,  what  a  plight  would  they  have  been  in  !  The 
natives  came  upon  them  in  a  very  rough  and  boisterous 
manner,  but  a  kind  Providence  watclied  over  them,  and 
the  natives  did  not  attempt  to  injure  them.  They  kept 
buying  up  their  clubs  and  spears  as  fast  as  they  were 
able,  and  in  that  way  strove  to  keep  them  disarmed. 
They  tried  their  utmost,  but  "without  success,  to  get 
teachers  settled  on  the  island.  The  time  did  not  seem 
to  have  come.  By  the  assistance  of  a  native  whom  they 
had  on  board,  and  who  had  been  in  Samoa  for  some  years, 
they  succeeded  in  inducing  three  natives  to  come  with 
them.  These  were  brought  to  Pangopango  and  left  there. 
One  of  them  died  shortly  after  their  arrival;  another,  a 
giddy,  thoughtless,  young  man,  left  in  a  whaler  after  he 
had  been  some  months  on  Tutuila,  and  we  heard  no  more 
of  him;  the  third,  who  took  the  name  of  Paulo,  turned 
out  a  steady,  thoughtful  man.  He  became  an  inmate  in 
our  family,  and  continued  with  us  till  his  death  in  1852. 
He  was  for  many  years  a  member  of  the  Church,  and  a 
remarkably  consistent  character  in  the  main ;  and  thougli 
he  made  one  or  two  slips  towards  the  close  of  his  life,  I 
cannot  but  hope  that  he  was  safe  at  last. 

We  need  not  further  refer  to  Savage  Island,  now  gene- 
rally known  by  its  native  name,  Niue.  Its  story  has  long 
been  fuUy  before  the  world.* 

But  to  return  to  Tutuila : — The  good  work  continued  to 
progress.  In  the  Pangopango  district  external  manifes- 
tations of  feeling  were  becoming  less  violent,  thougli  at 
almost  every  service  there  were  instances  of  persons  being 
overcome,  and  all  the  time  the  work  seemed  to  be  deepen- 
ing and  extending.  Over  about  two-thirds  of  the  island 
there  were  marked  indications  of  seriousness,  if  not  of 
anxious  concern,  and  these  indications  were  not  confined 

*  See  "  Missions  in  Western  Polynesia, "  chapters  xiii,  and  xiv. 


1 66  REMARKABLE  STATE  OF  THINGS. 

to  the  public  services  and  the  house  of  God,  but  were 
a]3parent  at  all  times  and  under  all  circumstances.  It 
seemed  like  one  continued  Sabbath,  except  that  the  people 
went  about  their  accustomed  employments.  Every  one 
seemed  instinctively  to  feel  as  if  levity  and  trifling  would 
be  out  of  place,  and  that  it  became  all  to  be  in  earnest, 
and  do  with  their  might  what  their  hands  found  to  do. 
Such  was  the  state  of  things  at  the  time  referred  to,  that 
\'isitors  from  a  neighbouring  island  told  other  intending 
visitors  on  their  return  home,  that,  if  they  went  to  Tutuila, 
they  would  hear  about  nothing  but  their  souls  from  Tapu- 
tapu  to  Tula — the  Dan  and  Beersheba  of  the  island. 

No  doubt  a  great  deal  that  then  appeared  was  mere 
sympathy — merely  indirect  and  incidental — passing  away 
with  the  occasion  ;  but  how  powerful  must  have  been  the 
influence  which  brought  about  such  a  state  of  things,  and 
kept  it  up  for  such  a  length  of  time ;  for  it  was  not  for  a 
few  days  or  weeks  tliat  it  continued,  but  for  many  months 
the  bulk  of  the  community  seemed  to  feel  and  act  as 
though  looking  habitually  at,  and  under  the  influence  of, 
things  unseen  and  eternal. 

Such  was  the  desire  of  the  people  of  the  more  distant 
villages  to  be  within  reach  of  the  services  at  Pangopango, 
and  to  enjoy  Christian  fellowshiii,  that  many  of  them 
built  houses,  and  made  plantations  in  our  neighbourhood, 
that  they  might  be  there  when  they  chose  without  incon- 
venience to  any  one.  Quite  a  number  of  little  settlements 
sprung  up  round  the  bay.  In  eacli  there  was  generally 
one  or  more  white,  plastered  cottages,  which  gave  the 
harbour  a  lively  and  picturesque  appearance — an  external 
indication  of  the  great  change  that  was  in  progress  among 
the  people. 

About  this  time  Maunga  came  out  very  decidedly. 
After  a  severe  conflict  with  opposing  feelings  and  in- 
fluences from  without  and  from  within,  he  gave  about  as 


CASE  OF  MAUNGA.  167 

convincing  evidence  of  sincerity  as  ho  could  well  do.  He 
determined  to  give  up  the  lady  from  Upolu,  aLout  whom 
there  had  recently  been  such  a  stir,  and  return  to  his 
laAvful  wife.  This  step  astonished  and  silenced  all  who 
were  inclined  to  doubt  his  sincerity.  The  case  was  a 
painful  one  to  others  besides  Maunga.  He  appeared 
sincerely  attached  to  the  woman  with  whom  he  was  living, 
and  she  was  in  every  respect  a  suitable  match  for  him,  and 
she  was  a  person  of  rank  from  Upolu.  And  what  an 
amount  of  shame  and  mortification  would  he  have  to 
bear,  especially  after  what  had  occurred  in  connection 
with  his  becoming  allied  to  the  lady.  He  had  taken  such 
a  bold  and  brave  stand,  as  those  who  acted  with  him  in 
the  affair  no  doubt  thought,  and  after  all  to  give  in  and 
acknowledge  himself  in  the  wi-ong,  and  practically  pass 
condemnation  on  himself  and  all  his  accomplices — what 
a  fool  would  he  appear  in  the  eyes  of  all  who  could  not 
sympathise  in  his  religious  scruples  !  Keenly  alive  to  all 
this,  he  tried  hard,  after  he  was  brought  under  convictions, 
to  find  a  way  out  of  the  difficulty  without  making  the 
surrender  for  which  conscience  called.  He  sought  a 
divorce  from  his  lawful  wife  that  he  might  be  able  to 
get  married  to  the  other,  but  there  was  no  Scriptural 
ground  on  which  that  could  be  obtained,  and  the  issue 
was  that  he  was  enabled  to  overcome  every  obstacle.  The 
lady  from  Upolu  was  sent  home  to  her  family,  and  he 
returned  to  his  lawful  wife.  After  a  while  he  was  ad- 
mitted to  the  Church,  being,  to  all  appearance,  a  new 
man. 

On  the  12th  of  this  month,  July  1840,  the  ordinance  of 
the  Lord's  Supper  was  administered.  There  was  nothing 
connected  with  the  services  of  the  day  calling  for  special 
remark,  but  there  w^as  one  interesting  circumstance  which 
deserves  a  passing  notice.  The  ordinance  of  the  Lord's 
Supper  was  observed  for  the  first  time  on  Tutuila  in  July 


i68  STRIKING  CONTRAST. 

1838,  so  that  two  years  had  now  passed  since  the  formation 
of  the  church.  And  what  an  eventful  two  years  liad  those 
been  on  which  we  were  now  called  to  look  liack !  What 
a  contrast  did  the  present  state  of  things  present  to  that 
of  July  1838,  though  that  did  not  lack  interest!  At  our 
first  communion  the  reader  will  remember  there  were  only 
three  natives,  now  we  had  one  hundred  in  Cliurch  feUow- 
sliip,  and  hundreds  more  were  hopefully  converted,  and 
waiting  for  admission.  So  mightily  had  the  word  of  God 
grown  and  prevailed.  And  at  Leone,  where  no  church 
had  been  formed  at  the  time  referred  to,  a  wonderful 
change  had  also  taken  place,  and  a  great  work  was  in  pro- 
gress. Well  was  the  review  of  these  years  fitted  to  fill  us 
with  wonder  and  gT.-atitude  with  reference  to  the  past,  and 
to  supply  the  highest  encouragement  as  regards  the  future. 
The  excitement  ha\'ing  now  somewhat  subsided,  and  a 
considerable  time  having  passed  since  the  awakening  com- 
menced, we  began  to  admit  more  freely  to  the  church.  At 
the  close  of  this  month,  July,  nineteen  were  admitted,  and 
generally  we  had  additions  more  or  less  at  every  church 
raeetins;  from  this  time  onward. 


(  i69) 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

VISIT  TO  LEONE — MR  LUNDIE — MEETINGS  FOR  PRATER  AND  INTERCOURSE — 
A  HEATHEN  TEMPLE  AND  SACRED  GROVE — INCREASE  OF  THE  CHURCH — 
EXCLUSIONS  FKOM  THE  CHURCH — CONVERSION  OF  AN  ENGLISHMAN — 
SKETCH  OF  HIS  LIFE. 

At  the  beginning  of  September  I  spent  a  few  days  at 
Leone,  including  a  Sabbath,  assisting  Mr  Slatyer,  whose 
circumstances,  though  animating  and  interesting  in  a  high 
degree,  were  difficult  and  trying,  as  his  knowledge  of  the 
language  was  necessarily  very  limited  as  yet.  Hence  he 
was  always  glad  of  the  help  which  it  was  a  pleasure  to  me 
to  render.  During  my  absence  from  home,  a  step  was 
taken  at  Pangopango,  not  without  my  consent,  which, 
under  ordinary  circumstances,  would  have  occasioned 
only  gratitude  and  joy,  but  which,  as  the  case  really  stood, 
became  to  us  a  source  of  great  and  lasting  regret.  Our 
dear  young  friend,  Mr  Lundie,  had  been  appl}dng  himself 
to  the  study  of  the  native  language  with  untiring  dili- 
gence from  the  time  of  his  arrival,  and  he  had  now  so  far 
mastered  it  as  to  be  able  to  address  the  natives  intelligibly. 
He  was  longing  to  turn  to  account  his  newly-acquired 
talent ;  he  looked  well  as  regards  health,  and  thought 
himself  well,  and  the  consequence  was  that  I  was  misled, 
and  gave  my  sanction  to  his  ^jrcftcAm^  to  the  natives 
during  my  absence.  He  preached  once  on  that  occasion, 
and  did  not  apparently  suffer  from  the  effort ;  but  a  second 
attempt  which   he   made,  three   weeks   after,  brought   a 


170  A  MISTAKE. 

return  of  the  symptoms  which  he  had  before  leaving  his 
native  land,  and  then  we  saw  too  late  that  we  had  been 
misled.  So  far  as  I  know,  he  did  not  again  speak  in 
public,  but  the  evil  was  done,  and  very  deej^ly  was  I 
grieved  on  account  of  it. 

Our  dear  young  friend  was  filled  with  a  zeal  which 
continually  exposed  him  to  the  danger  of  going  beyond 
his  strength,  and  though  it  was  difficult  to  restrain  him, 
I  might  have  kej>t  liim  from  pubhc  speaking ;  but,  hoj)ing 
with  himself  that  he  was  in  better  health  than  he  really 
was,  I  failed  to  do  so.  Alas !  his  days  were  numbered, 
and  the  apprehension  of  this  no  doubt  made  him  all  the 
more  desirous  of  working  while  it  was  day.  Thus  his 
desire  to  be  doing  something  in  his  Master's  service  in- 
creased as  his  ability  decreased,  and  he  and  we  were  in  a 
painful  strait.  We  \vere  all  comparatively  young  and 
inexperienced,  and  to  that,  I  daresay,  it  was  partly  owing 
that  we  did  not  hold  a  tighter  rein. 

In  the  month  of  September  of  tliis  year,  1840,  we 
commenced  a  meeting  among  ourselves,  with  the  view  of 
promoting  our  own  improvement,  and  advancing  the  in- 
terests of  the  mission.  It  has  already  been  remarked  that 
the  little  band  of  workers  now  thrown  together  on  Tutuila 
were  united,  loving,  and  hapj)y,  and  the  plan  now  adopted 
was  designed  to  promote  the  continuance  of  this,  and  turn 
all  to  the  best  account.  The  meetings  were  held  monthly, 
at  Leone  and  Pangopango  alternately.  Tlie  first  was  at 
Pangopango,  on  the  30th  of  September,  and  they  were 
continued  till,  in  the  course  of  providence,  our  party 
was  broken  up.  We  took  our  native  teachers  with  us, 
so  they  had  an  opportunity,  like  ourselves,  of  meeting, 
and  seeking  their  own  improvement  and  the  prosperity 
of  their  work.  We  were  accustomed  to  spend  the  early 
part  of  the  day  in  devotional  exercises  among  ourselves, 
and  in  the  afternoon  a  public  meeting  was  held  with  the 


BRIGHT  SPOTS  IN  THE  PAST.  17 1 

natives.  The  end  we  had  in  view  seemed  to  be  fully 
answered.  The  meetings  were  generally  hallowed  and 
delightful  seasons  both  to  ourselves  and  to  tlie  natives ; 
and  now  at  the  distance  of  over  thirty  years,  I  look  back 
upon  them  as  among  the  brightest  spots  in  the  past,  not, 
however,  without  a  feeling  of  solemnity  bordering  on 
sadness,  for  all  the  loved  ones  with  whom  we  were  wont 
to  meet  and  take  sweet  counsel,  and  join  our  hearts  and 
voices  in  prayer  and  praise,  are  gone — long  gone.  And 
of  the  teachers  also  who  used  to  assemble  with  us,  between 
thirty  and  forty,  not  more  than  two  or  three  remain.  Thus 
the  review  is  somewhat  saddening,  but  there  is  the  bright 
beyond.  There  is  the  assured  hope  of  reunion  not  far  dis- 
tant, and  that  meets  the  case.  Even  now  it  has  power  to 
make  joy  preponderate,  and  if  such  be  the  hope,  what  will 
the  full  fruition  be !  It  is  probable,  I  think,  that  if  we  had 
been  permitted  to  continue  our  meetings  for  a  great  while, 
we  sliould  have  found  it  desirable  to  have  them  less 
frequently,  say  once  in  two  months;  but  in  the  then 
state  of  the  island,  they  answered  well  as  they  were  held, 
and  so  it  might  have  continued. 

During  a  visit  made  to  the  remaining  heathen  at  this 
time,  in  company  with  Mr  Slatyer,  we  fell  in  with  a  great 
curiosity — as  things  go  in  Samoa — a  heathen  temple.  Samoa 
was  famed,  among  other  islands  of  Polynesia,  as  being  a 
nation  of  atheists,  from  the  fact  that  they  were  reputed  to 
have  neither  temples  nor  idols.  "  Hamoa  ore  atua  " — Samoa 
without  gods,  or  godless  Samoa — it  was  called  in  the  ancient 
songs  of  the  Tahitian  group.  And  that  was  the  rule,  but 
there  were  a  few  exceptions,  and  one  of  these  was  now 
found  at  Sailele,  one  of  the  villages  visited  during  this 
tour.  At  this  village  we  found  a  heathen  temple — not  a 
great  affair  by  any  means,  but  still  a  real  heathen  temple. 
It  was  a  small  house  made  of  the  wood  of  the  bread-fruit 
tree,  and  thatched,  as  other  Samoau  houses  are,  with  the 


172  A  HEATHEN  TEMPLE. 

leaf  of  the  sugar-cane.  It  was  only  about  ten  feet  in 
length,  and  six  in  breadth,  and  so  low  that  a  man  of 
middle  height  could  not  stand  upright  in  it.  It  is  re- 
markable that  the  priest  only  was  accustomed  to  enter 
it — the  worshippers  remaining  outside.  Within  were 
deposited  three  sacred  stones,  each  of  which  bore  a  signi- 
ficant name.  One  was  called,  "Ze  fatu  le  gaeetia"  (the 
immovable  stone) ;  another,  "  Le  malo  tumau  "  (the  endur- 
ing kingdom) ;  the  third,  "  Le  maa  mau  i  le  malo "  (the 
stone  fixed  in  the  kingdom).  Close  by  was  a  small  cocoa- 
nut  grove.  There  had  been  originally  but  one  tree,  but  as 
it  was  regarded  as  belonging  to  the  presiding  deity,  it 
was  sacred  and  must  not  be  touched  by  human  hands ; 
hence  its  fruit  had  been  allowed  to  fall  around  it  and 
remain  on  the  ground,  and  the  consequence  was  that,  at  the 
time  of  our  visit,  instead  of  one  tree,  there  was  a  grove, 
all  of  which  was  regarded  as  sacred. 

This  now  obscure  and  insignificant  village  must  have 
been  a  place  of  note  in  olden  times,  as  worshippers  used  to 
resort  to  it  from  all  parts  of  the  island ;  and  this  may 
account  for  the  obstinacy  with  which  its  people  clung  to 
heathenism. 

On  a  subsequent  occasion,  another  missionary  brother 
who  accompanied  me  broke  some  chips  off  one  or  more  of 
the  sacred  stones,  with  the  view,  I  suppose,  of  convincing 
.the  heathen  that  they  were  worthless  in  a  rehgious  point 
of  view,  and  when  I  next  visited  the  village  I  found  that 
the  stones  had  been  buried  that  they  might  not  again  be 
desecrated  by  profane  hands.  The  village  remained  wholly 
heathen  for  many  years.  I  fear  all  the  adult  generation, 
who  were  found  in  it  when  the  gospel  was  introduced  died 
in  heathenism.  There  is  something  touching  in  their 
burying  their  poor  objects  of  religious  worship.  It  looks 
as  though  they  had  some  kind  of  affection,  or  at  least 
veneration,  for  them. 


FIRST  FAILURES  IN  THE  CHURCH.  173 

At  our  church  meeting,  towards  the  close  of  tlie  month 
of  November,  it  was  our  painful  duty  to  exclude  two  of 
our  members.  Two  others  had  been  excluded  some  time 
before.  All  the  four  were  afterwards  restored,  on  affording 
satisfactory  evidence  of  penitence ;  so  that,  in  as  far  as 
appearances  went,  no  one  had  yet  quite  made  shipwreck. 

About  this  time  we  were  cheered  Ijy  an  event — unhappily 
of  rather  rare  occurrence  in  the  mission  field — the  conversion 
of  one  of  our  own  countr}Tnen.  After  what  has  been  said 
about  the  conduct  of  foreign  visitors  and  foreign  residents, 
the  reader  will  be  prepared  to  understand  how  it  cheered 
our  hearts  to  have  one  of  these  decidedly  change  masters — 
leave  the  service  of  Satan  for  that  of  Christ.  Such  a  favour 
was  now  granted  us.  The  good  man  of  whom  I  write — 
for  such  he  emphatically  became — has  gone  to  his  rest,  so 
I  may  speak  of  him  without  reserve,  and  he  is  well  entitled 
to  a  place  in  this  record,  as  he  was  for  many  yeare  a  most 
faithful  friend,  and  an  efficient  helper  to  me  in  my  work. 
Henry  Gibbons  was  a  native  of  ^  Islington,  London.  I 
know  not  at  what  age  he  went  to  sea,  but  he  had  been  a 
sailor  from  his  youth.  For  some  years  before  he  became  a 
resident  on  Tutuila  he  had  been  in  whaling  vessels,  and 
when  he  bade  farewell  to  a  sea-life  he  was  an  officer,  of 
what  rank,  I  forget,  in  an  American  whaler.  The  vessel 
was  cruising  off  Tutuila  in  search  of  whales,  when  a 
quarrel  arose  between  him  and  the  captain,  of  so  serious 
a  character,  that  the  captain  told  him  he  might  go  on 
shore  if  he  was  so  disposed.  He  took  the  captain  at  his 
word,  and  went  on  shore,  landing  at  a  small  village 
named  Poloa  on  the  south-west  side  of  the  island,  and  so 
ended  his  sailor-life. 

Down  to  this  stage  of  his  history.  Gibbons,  as  during  all 
our  subsequent  connection  we  used  to  call  him,  was 
according  to  his  own  account,  which  I  doubt  not  was 
correct,  a  haughty,  daring,  godless  fellow.     In  addition 


174  CONVERSION  OF  A   WHITE  MAN. 

to  being  brought  up  in  a  Christian  land,  he  had  come  into 
contact  with  missionaries  in  foreign  lands,  and  had  been 
admonished  again  and  again  to  turn  from  his  wicked 
ways ;  and  he  had  had  some  marvellous  escapes,  but 
nothing  had  in  the  least  moved  him;  and  he  landed  on 
Tutuila,  and  took  up  his  abode  at  the  above-named  village, 
almost  as  ignorant  of  everything  connected  with  religion 
as  a  heathen,  not  much  less  wicked,  and  certainly  much 
less  excusable.  And  so  he  continued  for  a  length  of 
time.  It  was  during  the  course  of  1837  that  he  became 
a  resident  on  Tutuila,  and  there  he  found  himself  sur- 
rounded by  influences  winch  he  could  not  long  withstand. 
The  wonderful  change  which  the  gospel  was  producing 
among  the  natives,  evinced  by  then-  earnest  attention  to 
rehgion,  and  their  consistent  conduct ;  and  especially  the 
Christian  deportment  of  a  young  man  named  Joane 
(John),  the  teacher  of  the  village  where  he  lived,  and, 
most  of  all  Joane's  prayers  for  him — these  all  combined 
to  arrest  his  attention,  awaken  reflection,  and  give  rise  to 
remorse  and  shame,  which  eventually,  by  the  Divine 
blessing,  led  him  to  repentance  and  faith  in  Christ. 

He  told  me  after  his  conversion  that  nothing  affected 
him  so  much  as  Joane's  prayers  on  his  behalf.  He  would 
think  with  himseK,  "  What  a  wretch  must  I  be  !  Here  is  a 
man,  who  but  lately  was  a  benighted  heathen,  praying  for 
me  while  I  do  not  pray  for  myself !  I  who  have  been  so 
much  more  highly  favoured."  When  thus  led  to  reflection, 
he  attended  the  native  services,  conducted  by  the  teacher 
at  the  village  where  he  lived,  from  which,  as  his  knowledge 
of  the  language  increased,  he  was  alJe  to  derive  benefit ; 
and  he  soon  found  his  way  to  Pangopango,  where  he 
attended  the  services  occasionally  and  obtained  a  supply 
of  books,  which  were  no  doubt  eagerly  read.  In  1840, 
when  Mr  Slaty er  arrived,  he  was  an  anxious  inquirer, 
groping  his  way  towards  rest  and  peace.     Poloa  is  in  the 


SUBSEQUENT  COURSE.  175 

Leone  district,  so,  after  Mr  Slatyer's  settlement  at  his  own 
station,  he  came  more  into  contact  with  him  than  witli 
me.  A  sermon  preached  by  Mr  Slatyer  from  the  words, 
"  How  long  halt  ye  between  two  opinions  ? "  made  a  deep 
impression  on  his  mind,  and  in  November,  1840,  he  was 
admitted  to  the  Church  at  Leone.  In  1842,  he  left  Poloa 
and  took  up  his  abode  at  Pangopango.  He  built  a  house 
near  to  our  premises,  aud  was  closely  connected  with  us 
during  all  the  time  we  remained  on  Tutuila. 

In  many  ways  he  was  of  great  service  to  me  and  to 
the  cause  of  God  on  Tutuila.  Brought  to  Christ  during 
times  of  revival,  his  piety  was  of  a  very  decided  type. 
No  trimiming,  compromising,  half-hearted  Christian  was 
Gibbons.  He  had  been  a  decided  cliaracter  in  the  devil's 
service,  and  he  was  not  less  so  in  that  of  his  new  Master. 
For  many  years  he  was  superintendent  of  our  Sabbath- 
school  at  Pangopango,  and  in  many  other  ways  he  sought 
to  make  himself  useful,  while  his  consistent  walk  was  a 
living  testimony  to  the  pov/er  and  excellence  of  the 
gospel.  In  1845,.  when  Mr  Pritchard  arrived  as  British 
consul  for  Samoa,  he  appointed  our  friend  consular  agent 
for  Tutuila,  and  shortly  afterwards,  Mr  J.  C.  WiUiams, 
who  was  consul  for  the  United  States  of  America  at  the 
time,  gave  him  a  similar  appointment.  For  a  number  of 
years  he  contmued  agent  for  both  these  gentlemen,  ap- 
proving hunself  faitliful  in  all  things.  He  spent  the 
latter  years  of  his  life  at  Poloa,  acting  as  teacher  of  the 
village  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr  Powell,  who  suc- 
ceeded us  at  Pangopango. 

More  than  once  during  my  connection  with  him  things 
occurred  wliich  put  his  principles  to  a  severe  test — occa- 
sions when  a  little  sacrifice  of  principle  or  a  little  com- 
promise would  have  been  to  his  temporal  advantage ;  but 
he  stood  firm,  resolutely  refusing  to  do  what  his  conscience 
disapproved. 


176  LAST  ILLNESS  AND  DEATH. 

He  died  rather  suddenly  in  March  1864.  At  the  close 
of  February,  he  walked  across  the  island  from  Poloa  to 
Leone  to  be  present  at  the  celebration  of  the  ordinance  of 
the  Lord's  Supper.  In  the  course  of  his  journey  he  got 
drenched  with  rain,  and,  after  reaching  Leone,  he  was 
seized  with  an  illness  which  proved  fatal.  His  death 
took  place  on  the  lOtli  of  March  at  Poloa,  to  which  he 
had  been  conveyed  after  he  was  taken  ill.  It  is  to  be 
regretted  that  there  was  no  kindred  spirit  with  him  during 
his  illness  to  speak  to  him  appropriate  words  of  comfort 
and  consolation,  and  commend  him  to  the  sympathising 
care  of  the  great  High  Priest ;  but  doubtless  He  Himself 
was  near,  and  sustained  His  faithful  servant  as  he  drew 
near  to  and  entered  the  swellings  of  Jordan.  Pew  that  I 
have  known  have,  on  the  whole,  maintained  a  more  con- 
sistent course  than  Henry  Gibbons ;  and  I  cannot  doubt 
that  with  him  to  be  absent  from  the  body  was  to  be  present 
with  the  Lord. 

It  ought  to  have  been  mentioned  that  he  married  a 
native,  soon  after  his  settlement  on  the  island,  by  whom 
he  had  a  large  family,  and  with  whom  he  lived  till  the 
time  of  his  death.  He  never  went  beyond  the  Samoan 
group  after  his  conversion.  In  Samoa  he  found  all  he 
seemed  to  care  for  in  this  world,  and  so  never  left  it  till 
called  to  a  better  country. 

What  an  interest  attaches  to  such  cases  as  the  above  as 
incidental  results  of  Christian  missions !  The  object  of 
missions  is,  of  course,  the  conversion  of  the  heathen,  and, 
in  as  far  as  that  object  is  faithfully  attended  to,  mis- 
sionaries do  their  duty,  and  more  cannot  fairly  be  de- 
manded of  them;  but  here  we  see  that,  beyond  that, 
missions  are  made  the  occasion  of  incalculable  good.  For 
though  such  cases  as  that  in  question  are  comparatively 
rare — alas  !  that  it  should  be  so — yet  they  are  sufficiently 
numerous  to  supply  a  powerful  stinmlus  to  the  supporters 


INDIRECT  FRUITS  OF  MISSIONS.  177 

of  missions.  Had  we  the  means  of  ascertaining  Low 
many  wanderers  have  been  arrested  and  led  to  the  Saviour 
by  the  instrumentality  of  missionaries  in  China,  India, 
Africa,  the  isles  of  the  Pacific,  and  elsewhere,  we  should, 
I  am  sure,  have  a  goodly  company,  the  records  of  whose 
lives,  could  such  be  obtained,  Avould  furnish  one  of  the 
brightest  and  most  encouraging  chapters  in  the  history  of 
modern  missions.  As  we  proceed  Avitli  this  narrative, 
other  cases  will  come  before  us  illustrative  and  con- 
firmatory of  these  remarks.  In  the  meanwhile  we  turn 
to  other  subjects. 


M 


(  I7S) 


CHAPTEE  XXIV. 

■WRECK  OF  AN  ENGLISH  WHALER  IN  PANGOPANGO  HARBOUR — A  HURRICANE — 
CLOSE  OF  THE  TEAR  1840 — RETURN  OF  THE  "  CAMDEN  " — SUCCESS  OF 
THE  VOYAGE — VISIT  TO  UPOLU  AND  ARRANGEMENTS  FOR  ANOTHER  MIS- 
SIONARY VOYAGE — PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  VOYAGE — DEPARTURE — PRO- 
CEEDINGS AMONG  THE  ISLANDS  VISITED — VISIT  TO  SYDNEY — RETURN  TO 
SAMOA  WITH  A  PARTY  OF  MISSIONARIES — STATE  OF  MR  LUNDIE's  HEALTH 
— LAST  ILLNESS  AND  DEATH — REMARKS  THEREON. 

On  the  lOtli  of  December  1840,  an  event  took  place 
wliicli  occasioned  us  considerable  anxiety.  It  was  of  a 
character  to  put  to  a  pretty  decisive  test  the  principles  of 
the  people,  and  show  how  far  their  professions  were  genu- 
ine. An  English  whaler,  the  "  Hope,"  from  London,  com- 
manded by  Captain  Eains,  was  wrecked  in  attempting  to 
get  out  of  the  harbour.  She  missed  stays,  to  use  a  sea 
phrase,  and  went  on  the  reef  inside  the  bay,  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  distant  from  the  heads,  and  stuck  fast.  She 
remained  on  the  reef  till  the  following  day,  when  she  was 
carried  into  deep  water  and  sank.  All  lives  were  saved 
and  a  considerable  amount  of  property.  The  natives  did 
everything  in  their  power  for  the  sliipwrecked  people,  and 
exerted  themselves  to  the  utmost  in  saving  property.  The 
things  saved  were  conveyed  to  the  houses  nearest  the 
scene  of  the  wreck  that  no  time  might  be  lost ;  and,  when 
all  was  got  together  that  could  be  recovered,  persons  were 
appointed  by  the  chiefs  to  make  a  thorough  search  all 
round  the  l^ay,  and  collect  everything  that  had  been 
saved ;  and,  when  that  was  done,  they  sent  for  the  captain, 


CHARACTER  TESTED. 


179 


and  delivered  all  to  liim  that  he  miglit  make  such  an 
apportionment  as  he  thought  right.  Tlie  captain  did  as  he 
was  requested,  taking  what  he  considered  his  fair  share, 
and  leaving  the  remainder  for  the  natives.  I  think  he 
acted  fairly;  at  least  we  heard  no  complaints.  Thankful 
indeed  were  we  that  the  matter  passed  off  as  it  did.  It 
was  more  than  could  have  been  expected,  wlien  the  cir- 
cumstances are  taken  into  account.  The  Samoans  in  tlie 
days  of  heathenism,  in  common  with  the  Soutli  Sea 
Islanders  generally,  had  a  notion  that  all  ^vrecks  were 
lawful  prey — the  gift  of  the  gods  to  the  people  in  whose 
neighbourhood  the  wreck  occurred.  Hence,  in  the  days  of 
darkness,  the  very  least  that  a  shipwrecked  party  could 
have  expected  would  have  been  to  lose  their  property. 
If  their  lives  were  spared,  they  might  consider  themselves 
specially  favoured.  Among  the  Fijis,  the  New  Hebrides, 
and  some  other  islands,  to  kill  aU  such  parties  was  the 
rule;  to  spare,  the  exception.  Among  the  Samoans,  to 
spare  was  the  rule,  to  kill  the  exception ;  but,  with  refer- 
ence to  plundering  wrecks,  I  am  not  aware  that  there  was 
any  difference.  Hence,  it  was  something  to  be  thankful 
for  that,  among  a  people  who  less  than  five  years  before 
had  neither  teacher  nor  missionary  among  them,  we  should 
be  able  to  record  that  not  a  single  article  belonging  to  a 
^VTeck  was  known  to  have  been  stolen,  though  there  was 
every  opportunity  to  have  taken  what  they  pleased.*  It  is 
surely  a  proof  that  cannot,  with  any  show  of  reason,  be 
gainsaid,  that  the  gospel  had  come  to  many  of  the  Tutui- 
lans  "  not  in  word  only,  but  in  power,  and  in  the  Holy 
Ghost." 

Soon  after  the  wreck  of  the  "Hope,"  tlie  island,  or 
rather  parts  of  the  island,  were  visited  by  a  terrific  Imrri- 

*  I  had  forgotten  that  there  was  one  instance  of  theft.  A  pig  was 
stolen,  but  the  parties  that  stole  it  were  made  to  give  two  instead  of  the 
one  they  had  stolen. 


i8o  A  SOUTH  SEA  HURRICANE. 

cane.  It  occurred  on  the  iVtli  of  December,  unusually 
early  in  the  season.  January,  February,  and  March  are 
the  months  during  which  hurricanes  generally  occur.  I 
remember  only  two  in  December,  during  all  the  years  of 
my  connection  with  Samoa,  and  once  we  had  one  in  the 
month  of  April. 

Mrs  Murray  and  myself  had  gone  to  Leone  to  remain  a 
short  time,  in  order  to  secure  rest  and  quiet,  which  we 
much  needed.  The  gale  sprung  up  suddenly  about  mid- 
forenoon,  and  continued  only  a  few  hours,  but  notwith- 
standing its  short  continuance,  it  made  dreadful  havoc. 
Mr  and  Mrs  Slatyer  lived  in  a  low  native  house,  which 
had  been  enclosed  with  lath  and  plaster.  The  natives 
tied  the  roof  down  so  as  to  prevent  its  being  carried  away ; 
but  the  wind  stove  in  the  lath  and  plaster,  though  it  was 
strong,  and  the  house  was  very  low ;  so  we  were  obliged  to 
flee  in  the  midst  of  the  storm — no  easy  matter,  especially 
for  the  ladies.  Trees  were  falling  in  every  direction — 
torn  up  by  the  roots,  or,  as  in  the  case  of  the  tall  cocoa- 
nuts  with  their  heavy  loads  of  fruit  and  leaves,  they  were 
being  snapped  in  two,  to  the  imminent  peril  of  any  one 
who  might  be  near.  The  rain  was  pouring  in  torrents, 
and  the  wind  blowing  so  furiously  that  it  was  with 
difficulty  we  could  keep  upon  our  feet.  The  natives  laid 
hold  of  the  ladies  and  hurried  them  along — ^half  carried, 
half  dragged — in  search  of  a  place  of  refuge.  We  made 
flrst  for  the  fah  tele,  the  caravansary  of  the  village. 
We  had  scarcely  got  inside,  however,  when  we  perceived 
the  roof  swaying  to  and  fro,  plainly  enough  indicating 
that  there  was  no  security  there ;  so  we  had  again  to  face 
the  storm,  and  direct  our  search  elsewhere.  A  place  of 
safety  was  at  length  found  in  a  new  native  house,  so 
strong  and  low  that  it  was  little  affected  by  the  gale. 

While  the  storm  was  at  its  height  it  was  something 
awful  to  see  and  hear.     Trees  crasliing,  houses  falling,  the 


A  SCENE  OF  DESOLATION.  i8r 

wind  howling,  and  tlie  sea  roaring,  and  the  poor  natives 
fleeing  hither  and  thither  in  search  of  a  safe  retreat — 
presented  a  scene  which  baffles  description.  But  it  was 
not  till  the  following  morning  that  we  could  have  any 
correct  idea  as  to  the  effects  of  tlie  storm^  as  night  closed 
in  before  it  had  spent  itself.  The  morning  revealed  a 
sad  scene  of  desolation.  A  large  number  of  houses  were 
in  ruins,  and  the  destruction  of  bread-fruit  and  cocoa-nut 
trees  was  very  great;  but  the  most  serious  loss  to  the 
natives  was  their  chapel — the  large,  noble  chapel  so  lately 
finished.  The  great  roof,  and  the  Avails,  which  were  lath 
and  plaster,  had  fallen  down  flat,  and  all  that  remained 
'Standing  was  the  pulpit.  It  was  a  wonder,  and  a  great 
mercy,  that  no  serious  accident  occurred  among  the 
natives;  but  to  ourselves  it  proved  a  serious  affair,  as 
Mrs  Murray  sustained  an  injury  the  effects  of  which 
remain  to  the  present  day. 

Feeling  anxious  about  home,  we  returned  on  the  day 
after  the  gale.  We  fully  expected  to  flnd  at  Pangopango 
a  state  of  things  very  similar  to  what  we  had  left  at 
Leone.  Hence,  on  entering  the  bay,  we  were  surprised, 
and,  of  course,  very  thankfid,  to  observe  that  scarcely  any 
traces  of  the  storm  were  to  be  seen,  and  so  also  we  found 
it  in  the  village  of  Pangopango,  and  about  our  own 
premises.  "We  w^ere  not  aAvare,  in  those  early  days,  that 
such  is  the  character  of  these  storms,  that  they  not 
unfrequently  sweep  over  a  locality,  carrying  everything 
before  them,  but  a  few  miles  distant  from  another  that 
they  leave  almost  untouched. 

Nothing  else  specially  noteworthy  occurred  during  the 
closing  days  of  this  eventful  year.  It  had  been  a  memor- 
able year  on  many  accounts  to  the  Tutuila  mission,  and 
that  which  succeeded  it,  1841,  was  scarcely,  if  at  all, 
less  so. 

The  first   event   of  special  importance   that   occurred 


1 82  RETURN  OF  THE  "  CAMDEN." 

in  the  new  year  was  the  arrival  of  the  "  Camden  "  from 
her  missionary  voyage.  She  reached  Tutuila  in  safety  on 
the  24tli  of  January.  The  voyage  had  been  successful  to 
an  encouraging  extent.  The  island  of  Eotuma,  on  which 
Mr  Williams  had  placed  teachers,  had  been  visited,  and  all 
found  going  on  well.  The  mission  on  Tanna  had  been 
reinforced,  and  on  the  island  of  Niua,  near  Tanna,  teachers 
had  been  placed,  and  also  on  Eramanga  and  the  Isle 
of  Pines.  The  large  island  of  New  Caledonia  had  also 
been  visited,  and  an  attempt  made  to  introduce  teachers, 
which,  however,  was  unsuccessful. 

And  another  thing  connected  Avitli  the  return  of  the 
vessel  which  afforded  great  satisfaction,  and  called  for 
special  gratitude,  was  the  arrival  of  a  new  missionary  and 
his  wife.  She  had  called  at  Tahiti  and  found  there  the 
Eev.  George  Drummond  and  Mrs  Drummond,  recently 
arrived  from  England.  They  had  been  appointed  to  occupy 
a  station  on  Tahiti,  but  at  a  meeting  of  the  members  of 
the  Tahitian  mission,  held  during  the  visit  of  the  "  Camden," 
it  was  arranged  that  they  should  come  on  to  Samoa,  where 
they  seemed  to  be  more  needed  than  at  Tahiti.  By  our 
mission  they  were  cordially  welcomed.  Mrs  Drummond 
has  long  since  gone  to  her  rest  (she  died  in  1855),  but  Mr 
Drummond,  with  a  second  Mrs  Drummond,  a  worthy 
successor  of  the  first,  occupied  a  station  in  Samoa  till 
1871,  beloved  and  honoured  by  his  brethren  as  a  faithful 
and  devoted  servant  of  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  when  failure 
of  health  compelled  him  to  retire  from  active  service. 

On  the  20th  of  January  the  "  Camden  "  sailed  for  Upolu, 
Mr  Slatyer,  Mr  Lundie,  and  myself  proceeding  in  her  to 
attend  the  meeting  of  the  mission  that  would  be  held  in 
consequence  of  the  return  of  the  vessel.  We  reached 
Apia  on  the  27th.  At  the  meeting,  which  took  place  as 
soon  as  the  brethren  got  together  from  their  respective 
stations,  tlic  principal  business  was  to  receive  the  report 


ANOTHER  VOYAGE  PROJECTED.  183 

of  the  late  voyage,  and  arrange  for  another,  and  for  the 
settlement  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Drummond.  The  result  of  the 
consultations  with  reference  to  the  vessel  M^as,  that  she 
should  start  on  another  voyage  as  soon  as  she  could  be  got 
ready  for  sea,  and  that  I  should  go  with  a  number  of 
teachers,  visit  the  stations  already  formed,  and  attempt 
the  introduction  of  the  gospel  to  new  fields  as  the  provi- 
dence of  God  might  direct  and  open  the  way.  Mr  Drum- 
mond was  appointed  to  commence  a  new  station  at  Falea- 
lupo,  on  the  island  of  Savaii.  We  were  detained  on 
Upolu  till  the  15th  of  February.  On  that  day  we  set 
sail,  and  the  wind  favouring,  we  reached  Tutuila  on  the 
following  day. 

The  interval  between  our  return  to  Tutuila  and  setting 
out  on  our  voyage  was  a  trying  time.  It  was  occupied 
in  making  preparations  for  the  voyage,  arranging  for  the 
care  of  the  station  during  our  absence,  the  selection  of 
teachers  to  accompany  us,  farewell  services,  &c.,  &c. 

It  was  a  great  relief  to  have  brethren  in  whom  we 
had  the  fullest  confidence  in  whose  charge  to  leave  the 
station — a  great  relief  and  comfort  to  ourselves,  and  also 
to  the  people — although,  with  reference  to  one  of  these, 
there  was  no  little  difficulty  and  anxiety  felt.  Mr 
Lundie's  health  was  not  at  all  in  a  satisfactory  state. 
His  own  wish,  however,  after  much  anxious  delibera- 
tion and  consultation,  was  to  remain  on  Tutuila,  and 
at  Pangopango.  The  principal  responsibility  connected 
with  the  care  of  the  station  was  to  be  upon  Mr  Slatyer, 
Mr  Lundie  just  remaining  on  the  spot,  and  taking  a 
general  superintendence. 

The  people  loaded  us  with  presents.  They  put  on 
board  a  large  quantity  of  provisions  for  the  ship,  and  of 
native  cloth,  &c.,  &c.,  to  be  expended  as  we  might  judge 
best  for  the  good  of  the  cause  of  missions.  Our  prepara- 
tions being  completed,  we  sailed  on  Wednesday,  the  24th 


1 84  EMBARKING  ON  THE  VOYAGE. 

of  February,  and  on  the  following  morning  we  anchored 
at  Apia.  We  were  detained  here  till  the  8th  of  March, 
when  we  set  out  on  our  important  voyage. 

We  had  a  large  and  miscellaneous  company  on  board. 
There  were  nine  teachers.  Three,  Tavita,  Fuafaiese,  and 
Tataio,  were  from  Mr  Hardie's  church  at  Sapapalii ;  two, 
Samticla  and  Tanielu,  were  from  Mr  Harbutt's  church 
on  Upolu ;  three,  Apclu,  Tmiiclu,  and  Apolo,  were  from 
Tutuila,  and  one,  Mataio,  was  from  Earotonga,  but  had 
been  some  years  on  Samoa.  We  had  also  the  wives  of 
three  of  the  teachers  who  had  gone  on  the  former  voyage. 
These,  with  a  man  and  his  wife  who  went  with  us,  made 
up  our  native  party.  We  had  also  a  small  number  of 
passengers  for  Sydney,  as  the  vessel  was  to  proceed  thither 
after  finishing  her  work  among  the  islands.  Among  these 
was  one  in  whom  we  all  felt  a  special  interest — Mrs 
Williams — the  sorrowing  but  wonderfully  resigned  widow 
of  John  Williams.  She  was  among  us  as  a  "  Mother  in 
Israel,"  and  towards  her  we  all  turned  with  tender  and 
affectionate  sympathy.  She  was  a  woman  of  a  remark- 
ably "  meek  and  quiet  spirit."  No  murmuring  word  ever 
escaped  her  lips  ;  no  symptom  of  discontent  did  she  ever 
manifest.  And,  not  only  was  this  the  case  during  the 
time  we  spent  together  on  board  the  "  Camden,"  but  it 
was  so  also  during  those  days  of  bitter  sorrow  when  the 
stunning  intelligence  had  newly  reached  her.  Scenes  and 
doings  at  the  islands  we  visited,  and  on  board  the  vessel, 
brought  vividly,  of  course,  to  her  recollection  her  recent 
loss,  and  brought  out  strikingly  the  spirit  in  which  it 
was  being  borne.  Especially  was  this  the  case  at 
Eramanga,  and  very  touching  was  it,  when  assembled 
for  our  morning  worship  on  the  day  we  were  off  that 
island,  we  were  repeating,  according  to  our  custom,  a 
passage  of  Scripture  all  round,  Mrs  Williams  gave  the 
following  as  her  text  for  the  day : — "  When  my  heart  is 


PROCEEDINGS  AMONG  THE  ISLANDS.         1S5 

overwhelmed,  lead  me  to  the  Rock  that  is  higher  than  I." 
Mrs  Williams  was  accompanied  by  her  daughter-in-law, 
the  wife  of  her  eldest  son,  wliom  she  had  left  in  Samoa. 
She  was  going  with  her  to  Sydney,  to  remain  till  she 
might  leave  for  England.  Both  mother  and  daughter 
have  long  since  passed  away  "  to  the  regions  where  the 
mourners  cease  to  weep."  Mrs  Williams,  senior,  finished 
her  course  after  a  few  years;  and  her  daughter-in-law, 
who  was  a  very  superior  woman,  and  earnestly  laboured, 
while  health  allowed,  to  serve  her  generation  and  glorify 
her  Saviour,  died  in  Sydney  in  1853. 

By  the  help  and  blessing  of  God  our  voyage  was  suc- 
cessful, but  as  a  full  account  of  it  has  long  been  before 
the  public,  I  need  not  enter  into  particulars  here.*  When 
we  got  clear  of  Samoa,  we  stood  for  Eotuma,  which  we 
were  unable  to  make  on  account  of  strong  head  winds 
and  rough  seas.  We  next  stood  for  the  New  Hebrides, 
and  succeeded  in  introducing  teachers  to  Fotuna  and 
Aneiteum,  the  most  easterly  islands  of  that  group.  From 
Aneiteum  we  proceeded  to  Tanna.  Having  reinforced 
the  mission  there,  and  attended  to  necessary  business,  we 
crossed  over  to  Niua,  and  thence  to  Eramanga,  from  which 
we  were  obliged  to  remove  the  teachers  who  had  been 
left  there  by  Mr  Heath.  From  Eramanga  we  went  to 
Mare  of  the  Loyalty  Islands,  where  we  succeeded  in  land- 
ing two  teachers  under  interesting  and  encouraging  cir- 
cumstances. From  Mare  we  proceeded  to  the  Isle  of 
Pines,  where  we  found  a  state  of  things  on  the  whole 
promising.  There  we  left  the  two  teachers  whom  we 
had  brought  from  Eramanga,  taking  one  teacher  from 
the  island  to  assist  us  in  an  attempt  we  were  contemplat- 
ing to  introduce  the  gospel  to  New  Caledonia.  In  that 
attempt  we  were  successful.  We  left  there  Tanielu  and 
Mataio,  and  the   teacher  from   the  Isle  of  Pines   (also 

*  See  "Missions  in  Western  Polynesia." 


i86  RETURN  TO  SAMOA. 

named  Tanielu),  to  remain  with  tliem  and  assist  them  for 
a  time.  This  closed  our  work  among  the  islands.  The 
teachers  were  landed  on  New  Caledonia  on  the  15th  of 
April  18-41,  and  on  the  same  day  we  stood  on  our  way 
towards  Sydney,  which  we  reached  on  the  28th  of  the 
same  month. 

We  were  delighted  to  find,  on  our  arrival  in  Sydney, 
a  company  of  missionaries  waiting  to  come  on  to  the 
islands.  Some  of  these  have  been  privileged  to  labour 
long  and  successfully  in  the  mission  field,  and  their  names 
have  been  familiar  to  the  friends  of  missions  for  many 
years.  The  party  consisted  of  the  Eev.  George  Turner, 
now  Dr  Turner,  and  Mrs  Turner  ;  the  Eev.  Henry  Nisbet, 
now  Dr  Nisbet;  the  Eev.  Thomas  BuUen  and  Mrs 
Bullen ;  and  Mr  Smee,  a  printer,  appointed  to  the  Tahitian 
mission.  The  "  Camden "  required  extensive  repairs,  on 
account  of  which  we  were  detained  in  Sydney  till  the 
13th  of  July.  On  that  day  we  bade  farewell  to  friends, 
and  dropped  down  towards  the  mouth  of  the  harbour,  and 
on  the  following  morning  we  stood  out  to  sea,  and  pro- 
ceeded on  our  homeward  voyage.  After  being  nearly  a 
month  at  sea,  we  drew  near  the  much-loved  and  longed- 
for  scene  of  our  stated  labours.  Early  in  the  morning 
of  the  10th  of  August  we  sighted  Manua,  and  shortly 
after  the  well-known  outline  of  Tutuila  was  descried 
in  the  distant  horizon.  During  our  long  absence  of  over 
five  months,  no  tidings  had  reached  us  from  Samoa; 
hence  it  was  with  deeply  anxious  hearts  that  we  drew 
near  Tutuila.  The  state  of  things  was  such  when  we 
left,  that  we  trembled  to  think  of  what  might  have  oc- 
curred during  the  long  interval.  Should  we  find  the  good 
work  that  was  in  progress  when  we  left  still  advancing, 
or  would  a  reaction  have  taken  place  ?  And  our  dear 
friends  whom  we  had  left  on  tlie  island,  how  should  we 
find  them  ?  and  especially  the  dear  young  man  who  was 


STATE  OF  THINGS  ON  TUTUILA.  187 

in  sucli  a  precarious  state  of  health,  what  change  would 
have  taken  place  in  his  case  ?  Such  were  the  questions 
we  were  revolving  during  the  long,  weary  hours  that 
passed  heavily  by  as  we  made  our  way  towards  Tutuila 
on  that  exciting  day.  With  reference  to  all,  we  were 
much  relieved  on  reaching  our  destination,  except  as 
regards  our  young  friend's  state  of  health.  That  was 
about  as  unsatisfactory  as  it  could  well  be.  He  had 
remained  at  Pangopango  about  six  weeks.  At  the  close 
of  that  time,  Mr  Slatyer  saw  that  he  was  quite  unfit  to 
continue  there  alone,  and  kindly  constrained  him  to  go 
to  Leone ;  and  there  we  found  him  being  most  tenderly 
nursed  and  cared  for  by  Mr  and  ]\Irs  Slayter.  I  had  to  go 
on  to  Upolu  in  the  "  Camden,"  but,  before  leaving,  I  went 
to  Leone  and  saw  Mr  Lundie.  I  was  much  struck  with 
the  marked  change  that  had  taken  place  upon  him  since 
we  parted  at  Pangopango.  At  that  time  he  himself  and 
all  of  us  clung  to  hope.  Now  it  was  unmistakably 
evident  that  his  days  were  numbered,  and  that  but  a 
few  remained.  Under  the  circumstances,  it  was  a  very 
painful  thing  to  be  obliged  to  leave  him  ;  but  duty  called, 
and  we  strongly  hoped  that  we  should  get  back  to  be 
with  him  during  his  closing  days. 

A  young  man  who  had  been  a  passenger  with  us  from 
Sydney,  who  had  a  considerable  acquaintance  with  medi- 
cine, offered  to  remain  with  our  friend  and  do  everything 
in  his  power  for  him,  and  ]\Irs  Murray  came  on  after  we 
left  to  assist  Mrs  Slatyer  in  nursing  him.  Mr  Slatyer 
thought  that  he  might  also  go  to  Upolu,  as  we  hoped  to 
get  back  in  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks,  and  there  seemed 
every  probability  that  our  friend  would  hold  out  longer 
than  that. 

Instead  of  getting  back,  however,  as  we  expected,  we 
were  absent  about  six  weeks,  and  durmg  our  absence  he 
passed  away.     He  died  on  the  18th  of  September,  amid 


i88       CLOSING  HOURS  OF  MR  LUNDIE'S  LIFE. 

the  tears  and  fond  regrets,  not  only  of  the  members  of  the 
mission,  but  of  hundreds  of  the  natives,  by  whom  he  was 
very  highly  esteemed"  and  warmly  loved.  We  may  give 
the  reader  a  glimpse  of  the  closing  scene.  It  was  not  so 
bright  and  joyous  as  we  could  have  wished.  He  had  been 
much  troubled  with  doubts  and  fears  as  to  his  prepared- 
ness for  death,  and  had  been  very  much  disposed  to  judge 
severely  in  his  own  case,  and  "  write  bitter  things  "  against 
himself — but  at  eventide  there  was  a  gleam  of  sunshine. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th,  when  death  was  evidently 
near,  Mrs  IMurray  inquired  as  to  the  state  of  liis  mind ;  he 
replied,  "  I  am  dreading  the  last  conflict  very  much ;  I 
fear  I  shall  not  have  strength  to  bear  it."  She  repeated 
some  appropriate  promises,  and  expressed  a  confident  hope 
that  the  Lord  would  be  with  him.  He  asked  her  to  read 
a  chapter  from  the  Bible.  She  selected  the  eleventh 
of  John,  and  as  she  was  reading  he  interrupted  her,  saying, 
"  I  am  feeling  something  that  I  trust  will  do  my  soul  good. 
I  have  been  thinking  of  the  pain  I  was  in  the  other  day, 
and,  if  that  was  so  great,  what  must  the  pains  of  hell  be  ? 
I  have  been  thinking  also  of  what  Christ  suffered  and 
endured  for  me."  "  Oh,"  he  said,  "  I  have  got  a  new  view 
— quite  a  new  view !  I  will  try  to  think  of  this  love." 
After  a  while  IMrs  IMurray  read  a  hymn  relative  to  the 
sufferings  of  Christ.  He  remarked,  "  Wliat  a  sweet  hymn  ! 
Jesus  is  mighty — oh,  yes!  He  is  all  mighty."  Mrs 
Murray  read  another  hymn  relating  to  the  glories  of 
heaven.  When  she  had  finished,  she  asked  if  he  had  not 
a  hope  that  he  should  soon  enter  into  these  glories.  He 
replied  that  he  had  such  a  hope.  His  fears  with  reference 
to  the  "  last  conflict "  proved  groundless.  On  the  morning 
of  the  18th,  about  nine  o'clock,  it  was  evident  that  the 
change  was  at  hand.  Those  who  had  been  his  attendants 
during  his  descent  into  the  dark  valley  were  gathered 
around  his  bed ;  he  recognised  all,  and  gently  pressed  the 


THE  MEMORY  OF  THE  JUST.  189 

liand  of  each,  and  then  beckoned  to  be  turned,  wliich 
being  done,  he  gently  breathed  his  last,  and  so  terminated 
his  brief  career. 

Seldom  has  one  so  young,  and  during  so  short  a  space 
of  time,  won  for  himself  so  large  a  place  in  the  esteem 
and  affections  of  a  people  as  he  did  among  the  Tutuilans. 
His  sojourn  among  us,  as  the  reader  has  seen,  was  only 
about  twenty  months,  and,  during  the  greater  part  of  that 
time,  he  was  struggling  with  disease,  and  yet  he  made  an 
impression  deep  and  abiding,  and  his  memory  will  be 
cherished  on  Tutuila  as  long  as  any  remain  of  the  genera- 
tion to  whom  he  Avas  known.  It  was  a  mysterious  pro- 
vidence that  nipt  in  the  bud  a  plant  of  such  rich  promise. 
Had  his  life  been  spared,  and  his  subsequent  course 
realised  its  early  promise,  which  I  do  not  doubt  it  would 
have  done,  he  would  have  occupied  a  high  place  among 
tlie  labourers  in  the  Lord's  vineyard.  The  field,  then  as 
now,  was  great  and  the  labourers  few,  yet  the  Lord  of  the 
vineyard  saw  fit  to  call  him  away  ere  his  Avork  was  well 
begun.  And  what  shall  we  say  ?  It  is  the  Lord,  and, 
whatever  appearances  may  seem  to  indicate,  all  that  He 
does  must  be  wisely  and  kindly  done. 

And  so  we  leave  our  dear  young  friend,  thinking  of 
him  and  sj^eaking  of  him  as  he  was  when  he  was  taken 
from  us.  What  he  is  now,  after  having  been  more  than 
thirty  years  in  a  higher  state,  "  doth  not  yet  appear,"  and 
we  AAoll  not  indulge  in  conjectures.  A  little  while  will 
reveal  all,  and  confirm  what  faith  now  decides,  that  all  is 
right — that  '•'  He  hath  done  all  things  well."  Yet  one 
can  hardly  help  having  a  lingering  feeling  as  if  those  who 
are  called  away  as  he  was  must  be,  in  some  respects, 
losers.  One  who  could  not  be  mistaken,  however,  has 
declared,  without  reserve  or  cpialification,  that  "  to  depart 
and  to  be  with  Christ  is  far  better."  To  the  cause  of  God, 
and  to  those  they  leave  behind,  their  removal  is  a  loss, 


I90  IN  MEMORIAM, 

but  for  themselves  "  it  is  far  better."  But  we  will  stop. 
God  all-sufficient  remains,  and  He  will  take  care  of  His 
own  cause,  and  provide  the  needful  instrumentality  for 
the  accomplishment  of  His  own  wise  and  holy  purposes, 
in  the  way  that  will  eventually  yield  the  largest  revenue 
of  glory  to  Himself,  and  happiness  to  the  countless  myriads 
who  shall  be  gathered  from  the  successive  generations  of 
men,  and  who,  with  the  unfallen  sons  of  light,  shall  form 
His  great  family  when  the  wonderful  history  of  our  world 
shall  have  been  wound  up. 

The  following  touching  lines,  written  by  Mrs  H.  Bonar, 
Mr  Bundle's  youngest  sister,  will  suitably  close  our  notice. 
They  are  headed 

"  VALEDICTORY  STANZAS." 

"  Afar  lie  sleeps  !  tlie  ocean's  roar 
Disturbs  liis  calm  repose  no  more. 
What  tbongli  the  rich  banana-tree 
Waves  -where  the  elm  or  yew  should  be  ! 
What  though  the  hymn  above  him  sung 
Breathes  A\'ildly  in  a  foreign  tongue  !  * 
What  though  no  voice  of  home  was  near 
To  soothe  with  love  his  dying  ear  ! 
What  though  to  other  hands  than  ours 
'Twas  given  to  tend  his  latest  hours ! 
What  though  that  gentle  heart  alone, 
Stood  still  upon  a  shore  unknown  ! 
That  beaming  eye  dimmed  day  by  day, 
While  oiirs  were  weeping  far  away  ! 
Not  friendless  did  the  stranger  die. 
Though  far  from  scenes  of  infancy  ; 
And  He  who  did  with  Mary  weep 
Watched  by  his  couch  and  soothed  to  sleep. 
We  murmur  not  !  the  day  draws  on 
When  all  the  hidden  shall  be  known  ! 
We  yet  shall  see  his  jewelled  crown 

*  The  allusion  is  to  hymns  iu  tlie  Samoan  language,  that  were  sung  on 
the  way  to  and  at  the  spot  where  his  remains  rest. 


RE  UNION  A  NTICIPA  TED.  1 9  r 

Bright  with  the  souls  in  exile  won  ! 

In  heaven's  clear  light  we  yet  shall  know 

The  cleansing  use  of  all  this  woe. 

Oh,  lonely  though  his  earthly  lot, 

His  trusting  spirit  fainted  not  ! 

The  cloud  is  passed  from  that  young  brow  ; 

It  glows  in  heaven's  own  brightness  now. 

We  give  him  up  !  thrice  happy  one — 

The  fight  well  fought — the  victory  won  ! 

We  give  him  up  !  His  exile  o'er. 

He'll  leave  his  Father's  house  no  more." 

Farewell,  dear  friend ! — a  short  farewell.  We  shall  meet 
thee  soon  where  "  Adieus  and  farewells  are  a  sound  un- 
known." 


(    192    ) 


CHAPTEE  XXV. 

STATE  OF  THINGS  ON  TUTUILA  ON  OUR  RETURN — THE  REMAINING  HEATHEN — 
REMARKS  UPON  THE  COMMENCEMENT  OF  1842 — OPENING  OF  A  NEW 
CHAPEL  AT  LEONE — BRIGHT  ANTICIPATIONS  ON  THE  OCCASION — PAINFUL 
DISAPPOINTMENTS ILLNESS  OF  MRS  SLATYER— RETURN  OF  THE  "  CAM- 
DEN "  FROM   A  YOTAGE    AMONG   THE   TAHITIAN   AND    HERYEY   ISLANDS 

DEPARTURE  OF  MR  AND  MRS  SLATYER — THEIR  SUBSEQUENT  HISTORY. 

After  full  inquiiy  into  and  observation  of  the  state  of 
things  on  Tutuila,  I  found  that  the  impression  I  had 
received,  on  our  return  from  our  voyage,  was  in  the  main 
correct.  From  the  time  of  our  departure  till  our  return 
from  Upolu  after  the  meeting,  about  seven  months,  the 
station  had  been  without  a  resident  missionary  except  for 
the  first  six  weeks.  At  the  close  of  that  time,  as  we  have 
already  seen,  Mr  Lundie  was  obliged  to  leave.  ]\Ir  Slatyer 
was  hindered,  by  circumstances  which  he  could  not  control, 
from  giving  the  station  much  of  his  time  and  attention ; 
hence  the  public  services  had  to  be  left  to  the  natives 
almost  entirely.  Such  being  the  case,  it  would  not  have 
been  surprising  if  there  had  been  considerable  retrogTes- 
sion.  As  it  was,  however,  that,  in  as  far  as  appearances 
w^ent,  had  not  been  the  case  to  any  great  extent.  Only 
two  cases  of  decided  defection  had  occurred  among  the 
church  members.  Large  numbers  continued,  as  formerly, 
to  wait  upon  the  means  of  grace,  and  the  bulk  of  those 
who  were  professedly  under  concern  when  we  left  con- 
tinued steadfast.    These  had  now  been  well  tested,  so  we 


PROGRESS  AND  CONSOLIDATION.  193 

could  admit  tliem  to  the  clmrcli  with  greater  confidence 
than  we  could  have  done  at  an  earlier  date  and  amid  the 
excitement  of  former  days. 

On  the  20th  of  October,  we  received  twenty  new 
members,  and  restored  the  first  individual  who  was  ex- 
cluded after  the  formation  of  the  Church.  The  following 
Sabbath  was  a  pleasant  and  refreshing  season  ;  but  our  ser- 
vices now  were  not  attended  by  the  same  external  manifesta- 
tions of  feeling  as  formerly.  When  feeling  was  manifested, 
it  was  generally  either  among  those  who  were  decided 
Christians  or  the  anxious  inquirers.  Between  these  and 
the  class  beyond,  there  was  now  a  marked  distinction, 
whereas,  formerly,  almost  all  were  at  times  more  or  less 
impressed  and  affected. 

The  heathen  remnant,  so  often  referred  to,  still  con- 
tinued as  obstinate  as  ever — indeed,  their  case  was  be- 
coming more  and  more  hopeless.  Having  withstood  all 
the  influences  brought  to  bear  upon  them  during  the 
extraordinary  times  that  had  passed  over  us,  there 
seemed  little  encouragement  to  hope  that  they  would 
yield  now.  The  tenacity  with  which  they  clung  to  the 
gods  of  their  fathers,  amid  so  much  fitted  to  move  them, 
while  mournful  in  itself,  was  an  instructive  lesson  to  us 
as  to  the  inefficacy  of  everything  short  of  the  mighty 
power  of  God  to  move  the  heart  and  bend  the  stubborn 
will  of  man. 

The  state  of  things  in  the  Leone  district  at  this  time 
was  highly  encouraging.  Mr  Slatyer,  who  had  now  got 
a  good  hold  of  the  language,  was  labouring  witli  great 
zeal  and  earnestness,  so  that  the  people  were  privileged 
as  they  had  never  before  been  for  a  continuance,  and  Grod 
was  evidently  blessing  the  labours  of  His  servant. 

Such  were  our  circumstances  with  reference  to  our  work, 
when  the  year  1842  opened  upon  us.  With  reference 
to  ourselves  personally,  the  case  was  different.      Heavy 

N 


194  THE  PAST  AND  THE  PRESENT. 

domestic  affliction  had  come  upon  us,  painfully  remind- 
ing us  of  the  precarious  tenure  by  which  earthly  blessings 
are  held;  still  we  were  not  greatly  cast  down.  With 
"  so  much  mercy  past,"  and  such  manifest  tokens  of  the 
presence  and  power  of  God  among  us,  we  were  not  readily 
discouraged  by  personal  trials. 

The  first  Sabbath  of  the  year  was  a  season  of  great 
interest.  It  was  the  fifth  anniversary  of  my  beginning 
to  preach  in  the  native  language,  and  what  an  affecting 
contrast  did  the  first  Sabbath  of  January  1837  present 
to  the  first  Sabbath  of  January  1842  !  Cold  indeed  must 
the  heart  have  been  that  could  have  dwelt  on  the  suljject 
without  being  deeply  moved.  How  much  was  there  in 
the  eventful  interval  calling  for  humiliation  on  our  part, 
and  for  wonder  and  gratitude  towards  God  in  considera- 
tion of  the  great  things  He  had  done  for  us !  Why  had 
we  been  so  favoured?  In  some  other  fields  eminently 
able  and  faithful  missionaries  had  laboured  double  the 
time  we  had  before  seeing  any  decided  fruit  of  their 
labours.  How  signally  therefore  had  we  been  favoured 
— and  why  ?  "  Even  so,  Father ;  for  so  it  seemed  good  in 
Thy  sight." 

Towards  the  close  of  February,  an  event  of  no  common 
interest  took  place  at  Leone.  The  people  there  had 
built  another  chapel.  They  had  set  to  work  soon  after 
the  destruction  of  the  former  one  by  the  gale  at  the  close 
of  1840,  and  had  now  completed  a  building  superior  to 
anything  that  had  hitherto  been  attempted  in  Samoa. 
With  the  assistance  of  two  Englishmen,  one  of  whom 
was  Henry  Gibbons,  they  put  up  a  very  neat,  com- 
modious place,  with  a  gallery  of  considerable  depth.  It 
was  furnished  throughout  with  comfortable  seats,  and 
finished  in  every  part  in  workmanlike  style.  It  would 
seat  from  1000  to  1200  people.  Tlie  gallery  contributed 
greatly  to  the  strength  of  the  building,  and  a  much  less 


IXTERESTIXG  CHAPEL-OPEXIXG  AT  LEOXE.     195 

effort  of  voice  was  required  to  reach  the  congregation 
than  if  they  had  been  all  seated  on  the  floor.  It  was  in 
hand  fourteen  months,  and  a  great  amount  of  labour  was 
expended  upon  it. 

It  was  opended  on  the  2-lth  of  February.  Two  sermons 
were  preached.  That  in  the  morning  was  from  Psalms 
Ixxxvii.  5,  6 ;  and  that  in  the  afternoon,  by  Mr  Slatyer, 
was  from  Nehemiah,  x.  39 — last  clause  of  the  verse.  Tlie 
occasion  was  a  joyous  one  to  all  of  us — especially  to  the 
people  of  the  district  and  their  esteemed  pastor.  Grati- 
tude to  God  that  the  great  work,  for  such  it  was  to  them, 
had  been  brought  to  so  satisfactory  a  close,  and  that  they 
had  now  a  chapel  which  was  likely  to  weather  any  storm, 
was  deeply  and  generally  felt ;  while  sanguine  expectations 
were  cherished  that  it  would  indeed  prove  the  birthplace 
and  nursery  for  heaven  of  many  souls — especially  did  such 
thoughts  and  feelings  as  these  fill  the  pastor's  heart,  as  he 
looked  forward  and  anticipated  happy  years  of  labour  in 
the  cause  he  so  much  loved.  Alas !  even  then  a  storm 
was  gathering  over  his  head,  and  was  well-nigh  bursting, 
which  was  to  dash  to  the  ground  all  his  fond  hopes,  and, 
in  a  few  short  weeks,  compel  him  to  bid  a  final  farewell 
to  the  sj)here  of  labour  which  was  so  dear  to  his  heart — a 
terrible  trial  was  at  liand. 

"We  met  at  Paugopango  on  the  13th  of  April,  to  hold 
one  of  our  monthly  meetings  for  prayer  and  Christian 
fellowship.  We  united  in  our  accustomed  exercises,  which 
were  not  marked  by  anything  unusual.  Mrs  Slatyer,  who 
had  been  in  a  delicate  state  of  health  for  some  time, 
remained  with  us  at  Pangopango,  while  Mr  Slatyer  re- 
turned to  attend  to  his  duties  at  Leone.  We  hoped  tiiat 
the  change  would  be  beneficial ;  and  that  in  a  short  time 
she  would  return,  with  recruited  energies,  to  her  home. 
Alas!  she  was  to  see  that  home  no  more.  On  the  day 
after  Mr  Slatyer  left,  symptoms   of  a  most   distressing 


196  HEAVY  AFFLICTIONS. 

malady  appeared — a  mental  affection,  which  in  a  short 
time  necessitated  her  removal  from  Tutuila,  and  ultimately 
from  the  mission  field,  and  from  which  she  never  fully 
recovered.  Of  course  Mr  Slatyer  was  soon  with  us  again ; 
and  as  j\Irs  Murray  was  also  ill,  so  ill  as  to  be  totally 
unable  to  do  anything  towards  nursing  or  tending  her 
afflicted  sister,  our  ckcumstances  were  of  a  peculiarly 
trying  character.  Happily  and  most  opportunely,  about 
a  fortnight  after  the  commencement  of  Mrs  Slatyer's 
illness,  the  "  Camden  "  arrived.  She  was  about  to  make  a 
cruise  amon^  our  out-stations,  and,  having  accomplished 
that,  go  on  to  Sydney ;  and  on  board  were  our  esteemed 
friends,  Mr  and  Mrs  Buzacott.  Anxious  consultations 
were  held,  and  the  decision  to  which  these  led  was,  that  it 
was  Mr  Slatyer's  duty  to  embrace  the  opportunity,  pro^d- 
dentially  put  in  his  way,  to  try  the  effect  of  change  of 
place  and  climate,  and  seek  in  Sydney  better  medical  aid 
than  could  be  obtained  in  the  islands.  Mr  Slatyer  clung 
fondly  to  the  hope  that  in  a  few  months  they  would  be 
able  to  return ;  and  perhaps  it  was  well  he  did,  as  it  was 
a  considerable  alleviation  of  his  peculiarly  heavy  trial. 
They  did  indeed  return  to  Samoa,  and  spend  about  two 
years  most  usefuUy  at  Saluafuta,  on  Upolu ;  but  a  return 
of  Mrs  Slatyer's  malady  compelled  them  to  bid  a  final 
adieu  to  the  mission  field  about  the  close  of  1845,  and 
return  to  their  native  land.  It  was  another  of  those  dis- 
pensations into  the  reasons  of  which  man  camiot  pene- 
trate, and  in  reference  to  which  we  can  only  exclaim, 
"  How  unsearchable  are  His  judgments,  and  His  ways 
past  finding  out ! "  "  Thy  way  is  in  the  sea,  and  Thy  path 
in  the  great  waters,  and  Thy  footsteps  are  not  known." 

When  our  dear  brother  was  compelled  to  turn  his  back 
upon  his  chosen  and  loved  work,  I  believe  he  did  not  leave 
behmd  him  a  truer-hearted  missionary,  or  one  more  likely 
to   labour   successfally  in  leading  souls  to  the  Saviour, 


REMOVAL  OF  MR  AND  MRS  SLATYER.         197 

and  training  them  for  heaven,  throughout  the  isles  of  the 
Pacific.  I  speak  strongly,  hut  I  speak  from  intimate 
knowledge  of  the  man.  His  whole  soul  seemed  to  be  set 
on  missionary  work,  and  I  doubt  whether  any  one  ever 
felt  it  a  more  bitter  trial  to  leave  that  work;  yet  the 
Master  saw  fit  to  withdraw  him  from  it  for  reasons  which 
no  doubt  will  be  seen  to  be  wise  and  good  and  kind  Avhcn 
we  shall  be  in  a  position  to  understand  them. 

The  distressing  malady  with  which  Mrs  Slatyer  was 
atfiicted  was  never  removed ;  and,  after  a  few  years,  she 
was  released  from  the  sorrows  and  sufferings  of  earth,  and 
taken  to  the  blessed  home  beyond.  She,  like  her  hus- 
band, was  warmly  attached  to  the  mission  cause,  and 
longed  to  be  useful,  and  was  well  fitted  to  be  so — so  that 
much  that  has  been  said  relative  to  his  case  is  equally 
applicable  to  hers  ;  but  we  will  not  further  enlarge.  She 
has  gone  where  all  that  by  the  grace  of  God  she  was,  and 
all  that  it  was  in  her  heart  to  do,  is  known  and  approved 
by  Him  whose  she  was,  and  whom  she  served. 

In  Mr  Slatyer's  case,  symptoms  of  a  tendency  to  disease 
in  the  chest  appeared  after  his  return  to  the  stern  climate 
of  England.  He  spent  some  time  in  travelling  for  the 
Loudon  Missionary  Society,  and  advocating  the  claims  of 
missions,  after  which  he  took  charge  of  a  small  church  in 
Torquay,  Devonshire,  where  he  laboured  assiduously  till 
lie  too  was  called  home,  having  finished  the  work  given 
him  to  do,  and  been  made  meet  for  the  inheritance  of  the 
saints  in  light.     He  died  in  1854. 

Between  Mr  and  Mrs  Slatyer  and  ourselves  a  very 
warm  attachment  subsisted.  With  Mr  Slatyer  con-espon- 
dence  was  kept  up  while  he  lived,  and  we  have  never  ceased, 
nor  shall  we  cease,  to  cherish  the  memory  of  both  while 
we  remain  behind.  Fondly  do  we  recall  and  dwell  upon 
the  scenes  so  long  gone  by — bright  spots  hallowed  by  inter- 
course  akin   to   that   which   we   hope   shortly   to   enjoy 


198  FAREWELL  SERVICES— DEPARTURE. 

beyond  tliis  changing  scene.  Very  precious  is  the  recol- 
lection of  the  past,  and  more  precious  still  is  the  anticipa- 
tion of  the  future — the  blessed  reunion  which  cannot  now 
be  very  far  distant ;  but  I  must  forbear.  May  the  Lord  of 
the  harvest  raise  up  and  send  forth  to  His  vineyard  many 
more  labourers  of  the  stamp  of  George  Lundie  and  Thomas 
and  Amelia  Slatyer ! 

We  were  privileged  to  spend  a  Sabbath  with  our 
beloved  friends  at  Pangopango  before  parting.  The 
services  were,  I  need  hardly  remark,  of  a  solemn  and 
affecting  character.  Mr  Slatyer  preached  in  the  morning 
to  a  very  large  native  congregation,  and  after  the  ser- 
mon I  administered  the  ordinance  of  the  Lord's  Supper 
At  noon  Mr  Slatyer  preached  in  English,  and  in  the 
afternoon  Mr  Buzacott  addressed  the  natives  through 
Teava.  Large  numbers  of  Mr  Slatyer's  people  were 
present,  and  sad  were  the  hearts  of  many — indeed,  of 
the  great  majority  of  us — on  that  mournful  day.  Could 
we  have  seen  reason  for  strong  hope  that  ere  a  great 
while  our  beloved  friends  would  return  to  us,  it 
would  have  greatly  relieved  us.  As  it  was,  however, 
some  of  us,  at  least,  could  not  rid  ourselves  of  dark 
forebodings  that  the  separation  would  be,  what  it 
actually  proved,  final,  in  as  far  as  our  relations  on 
Tutuila  were  concerned. 

The  "  Camden "  was  to  have  sailed  on  the  following 
day,  but  contrary  winds  detained  lier  till  Wednesday, 
j\Iay  the  5tli.  On  the  morning  of  that  day  she  took  her 
departure,  and  we  were  again  left  with  the  care  of  the 
whole  island  upon  us,  and,  in  addition  to  that  heavy 
burden,  a  load  of  domestic  alfliction ;  so  our  circumstances 
were  very  trying.  But  He  who  comforteth  those  who 
are  cast  down  did  not  forsake  us,  and  we  were  enabled 
to  struggle  on,  often  sorrowful  and  sad,  but  still  upborne. 
During   tliose  trying   days  we  went   forth   emphatically 


SOWING  IN  TEARS.  199 

sowing  in  tears,  realising  to  a  large  extent  that  afflic- 
tion for  the  present  is  not  joyous,  but  grievous ;  but 
learning  lessons  of  inestimable  value,  -which  we  could 
not  have  learned  in  any  other  school.  For  all  our 
trials,  heavy  and  long-continued  as  they  were,  there 
was  doubtless  a  needs -be.  We  had  been  specially 
favoured,  and  He  who  knows  the  dangers  to  which  His 
weak,  erring  children  are  exposed,  doubtless  saw  that 
our  safety,  and  perhaps  higher  interests,  required  that  our 
afflictions  should  be  somewhat  in  proportion  to  our 
mercies.  And  now  in  the  retrospect,  though  our  present 
light  is  so  small,  we  number  them  among  our  choicest 
blessings ;  and  if  so,  what  will  be  the  estimate  which  we 
shall  form  when  all  shall  be  seen  in  the  light  of  heaven  ? 
"For  our  light  affliction,  which  is  but  for  a  moment, 
worketh  for  us  a  far  more  exceeding  and  eternal  weight 
of  glory." 

When  I  returned  alone  from  the  sad  scene  on  board 
the  "  Camden,"  on  the  day  of  parting,  it  required  no 
small  effort  to  brace  myself  up  for  the  duties  that  awaited 
me.  Unhappily  our  May  meetings  had  been  appointed 
to  be  held  on  the  day  the  vessel  sailed.  The  arrangement 
had  been  made  liefore  the  commencement  of  Mrs  Slatyer's 
illness,  and  could  not  well  be  altered,  and  we  had  hoped 
that  the  "  Camden "  would  have  sailed  two  days  earlier- 
As  it  was,  I  was  enabled  to  get  through  the  services  of 
the  day,  but  the  occasion  did  not  equal  in  interest 
similar  services  and  gatherings  in  former  days.  A  dark 
cloud  liad  come  over  us,  and  our  hearts  were  heavy  and 
sad.  The  people  of  Leone  were  greatly  cast  down  on 
account  of  the  loss  of  their  beloved  missionary,  and  we 
were  scarcely  less  so  on  account  of  losing  our  fellow- 
labourer. 

Soon  after  the  departure  of  our  friends,  I  spent  a 
Sabbath   at  Leone,  and    sought    to    lead   the   sorrowing 


200    COMFORTING  THOSE  WHO  ARE  CAST  DOWN. 

people  there  to  a  suitable  improvement  of  the  painful 
dispensation  that  had  deprived  them  in  so  trying  a 
manner  of  their  missionary,  and  to  speak  to  them  words 
which,  by  the  Divine  blessing,  might  tend  to  comfort 
and  encourage  them.  I  addressed  them  from  Heb.  xiii. 
7,  8.  The  truth  is,  I  needed  words  of  comfort  and 
encouragement  about  as  much  as  they  did;  so  it  was 
one  mourner  trying  to  comfort  other  mourners.  The 
end,  I  trust,  both  in  their  case  and  my  own,  was  in  some 
measure  answered  ;  I  left  them  I  hope  somewhat  relieved, 
and  returned  home  with  my  own  bui^den  somewhat 
lightened. 


(   20I    ) 


CHAPTER  XXA^r. 

AKRANGEMENTS  TO  MEET  ALTERED  CIRCUMSTANCES — ENCODRAGING  STATE 
OF  THINGS — FAILURES  IN  THE  CHURCH — MAUNGa's  DEFECTION — SUBSE- 
QUENT   COURSE    AND    DEATH RETURN     OF    THE    "  CAMDEN  " — A    GALE 

DEPARTURE  OF  THE  "  CAMDEN  "  FOR  ENGLAND — REMARKS. 

The  first  thing  tliat  demanded  attention  after  the  de- 
parture of  Mr  and  Mrs  Slayter  was,  of  course,  arrange- 
ments to  meet,  in  the  best  way  in  our  power,  our  altered 
circumstances.  In  some  respects  this  was  less  difficult 
than  formerly ;  in  others  more  so.  There  was  now  no 
lack  of  native  assistants  who  were  growingly  efficient; 
but  as  the  people  were  rapidly  advancing  in  intelligence, 
and  many  of  them,  I  trust,  in  Christian  experience,  it  was 
needful  that  the  teachers  should  have  increasing  attention, 
so  as  to  keep  them  in  advance  of  those  whom  they  had 
to  instruct ;  and  both  teachers  and  people  required  con- 
stant superintendence,  and  my  circumstances  were  such 
as  to  render  the  satisfactory  accomplishment  of  these  ends 
a  matter  of  great  difficulty.  Mrs  Murray  continued  to 
be  heavily  afHicted,  and  it  was  often  to  me  an  exceed- 
ingly trying  thing  to  leave  lier,  as  I  was  obliged  to  do, 
if  Leone  was  to  liave  the  attention  it  needed.  By  the 
help  of  God  we  struggled  on,  striving  to  do  the  best  of 
whicli  the  circumstances  admitted,  and  being  sustained 
amid  all  our  difficulties  and  trials,  by  continued  indications 
of  the  presence  and  power  of  God  among  us. 


202       UNITED  MEETINGS  OF  THE  CHURCHES. 

The  teachers  from  all  parts  of  the  island  assembled 
weekly,  excejDt  wlien  unavoidable  interruptions  came 
in  the  way,  either  at  Pangopango,  which  is  about  the 
centre  of  the  island,  or  at  some  other  village  more  easy 
of  access  to  those  of  the  Leone  district.  At  these  meet- 
ings with  the  teachers,  we  were  occupied  with  Scripture 
exposition,  instruction  more  especially  designed  to  furnish 
them  for  their  public  addresses,  and  matters  of  business 
connected  with  occurrences  which  took  place  in  their 
respective  villages. 

We  had  recourse  to  a  plan  at  this  time  which  proved 
very  useful.  A  united  meeting  of  the  members  of  both 
churches  was  held  monthly  at  the  villages  most  conveni- 
ently situated  for  both  districts.  These  were  Nuuuli,  the 
last  village  of  the  Pangopango  division  of  the  island, 
and  Tafuna,  a  short  distance  beyond,  but  belonging  to 
Leone.  The  first  was  held  at  Nuuuli  on  the  17th  of  June. 
Our  plan  was  to  have  first  a  regular  service,  at  which  a 
sermon  was  preached  having  special  reference  to  the 
circumstances  of  church  members — their  relations,  privi- 
leges, obligations,  dangers,  encouragements,  &c.,  &c.  At 
our  first  meeting  I  preaclied  from  Matt.  v.  13.  This  service 
was  in  the  afternoon,  and  in  the  evening  there  were  a 
number  of  separate  meetings,  conducted  by  the  teachers 
of  the  different  villages,  at  which  the  subject  of  the  after- 
noon service  was  talked  over,  and  short  addresses  delivered 
by  such  as  felt  inclined  to  speak,  while  all  was  preceded 
and  followed  by  prayer.  These  meetings  were  kept  up  for 
years,  and  were,  I  doubt  not,  productive  of  much  good. 
They  were  suited  to  the  circumstances  in  which  the  people 
were  when  they  were  commenced,  and  for  a  length  of 
time  afterwards.  They  tended  to  j^romote  a  spirit  of 
union  and  brotherly  love  among  the  members  of  the 
different  churches,  and  to  bind  together  the  two  divisions 
of  the  island.     And,  moreover,  they  tended  powerfully, 


A  SABBATH  AT  LEONE.  203 

by  the  Divine  blessing,  to  promote  the  life  and  power  of 
godliness  among  us,  which  was  the  great  end  at  which 
we  aimed,  as  more  or  less  including  every  other  desirable 
good.  We  were  aided  in  keeping  before  us,  at  least,  a 
high  standard  of  Christian  life  and  practice.  Often  did 
they  prove  strengthening  and  refreshing  to  myself,  and 
some  of  them  are  among  the  most  interesting  recollections 
of  my  early  missionary  life. 

On  the  occasion  referred  to,  as  often  afterwards,  instead 
of  returning  to  Pangopango  I  went  on  to  Leone,  and 
spent  there  the  Sabbath.  I  found  much  to  cheer  and 
encourage  at  Leone.  The  people  had  evidently  laid  to 
heart  the  loss  they  had  sustained  in  the  removal  of  their 
late  pastor,  and  it  appeared  as  if  the  trial  were  being 
blessed  to  them.  It  has  been  remarked  that,  at  the  time 
Mr  Slatyer  was  called  to  lay  down  his  work,  he  was 
labourino-  under  circumstances  of  much  encouragement — 
and  this  was  doubtless  the  case.  Still,  as  it  seemed  to  me 
afterwards,  the  great  work  connected  with  the  building 
of  the  chapel,  and  perhaps  some  other  distractions,  had 
exercised  a  slightly  deadening  influence  upon  the  people, 
and  a  feeling  of  security  appeared  to  some  extent  to  have 
stolen  over  them.  They  had  a  missionary  among  them, 
and  did  not  dream  of  losing  him ;  and  they  had  the  best 
chapel,  not  only  on  Tutuila,  but  in  the  whole  of  the 
Samoan  group ;  and  perhaps,  after  the  manner  of  human 
nature,  they  were  in  danger  of  looking  too  much  to  man, 
and  being  exalted  above  measure.  If  such  was  the  case, 
tliey  had  now  had  a  lesson  fitted  effectually  to  arouse 
them,  and  teach  them  to  "  cease  from  man,"  and  by  many 
the  lesson  was  not  disregarded.  At  all  the  services  the 
chapel  was  crowded  with  most  attentive  and  apparently 
deeply  impressed  worshippers ;  numbers  of  those  who  had 
been  awakened  twelve  or  eighteen  months  before  were 
admitted  to  the  church,  and  new  cases  of  conviction  and 


204  REVIVAL  AND  PROGRESS. 

conversion  occurred.  This  state  of  things  continued  for 
some  weeks,  till  it  issued  in  an  awakening  nearly  as  ex- 
tensive and  powerful  as  that  of  1840. 

On  Thursday,  the  21st  of  July,  the  united  meeting  of 
the  churches  was  held,  after  which  I  again  went  to  Leone, 
and  remained  over  the  Sabbath.  The  meeting  of  the 
churches  was  a  very  refreshing  season.  The  members 
from  tlie  Leone  district  came  full  of  life  and  warmth,  and 
the  people  of  the  other  were  also  in  a  pretty  lively  state. 
Hence  they  came  together  with  large  desires  and  expec- 
tations, and  we  found  it  good  to  wait  upon  God.  The 
Friday  and  Sabbath  services  were  also  times  of  blessing ; 
but  they  were  so  similar  in  then  character  to  others  of 
which  a  particular  account  has  been  already  given,  that 
they  need  not  be  again  described.  The  people  crowded 
to  hear  the  word  with  eager  desire,  and  the  work  of  con- 
viction and  conversion  appeared  to  go  on  to  a  greater 
extent  than  had  been  the  case  since  the  movement  in 
June  1840. 

In  the  Pangopango  district  there  was  less  excitement, 
but  the  state  of  things  was  not  less  interesting.  Believers 
were  being  established,  and  additions  to  the  hopeful  were 
being  steadily  made.  These  tokens  for  good  were  exceed- 
ingly opportune,  as  we  had  a  good  deal  to  try  us  from 
some  quarters  at  this  time.  We  were  often  feelingly 
reminded  of  Jolm  Newton's  homely  but  truthful  words  : — 

"  ^Vllat  contradictions  meet  in  minister's  employ  ! 
It  is  a  bitter  sweet ;  a  sorrow  full  of  joy." 

While  one  page  of  my  journal  tells  of  admissions  to  the 
church  and  hopeful  conversions,  another  sorrowfully 
records  defections  and  exclusions.  Not  that  we  had 
very  much  of  the  latter,  but  we  had  been  so  accustomed 
to  have  all  going  on  smoothly  in  the  churches,  that  when 
defections    did   take   place,  they  were  very  keenly  felt. 


PAINFUL  EXPERIENCES.  205 

We  were  apt  to  feel  as  though  some  strange  thing  had 
happened  to  us.  We  were  somewhat  as  young  Christians 
are  wont  to  be,  wlien,  in  the  warmth  of  their  first  love, 
they  carry  themselves  as  though  they  were  already  victors, 
whose  peace  was  not  again  to  be  broken,  whereas  the 
conflict  is  yet  to  begin.  About  this  time  we  had  to 
exclude  four  persons  after  they  had  occasioned  us  a  great 
deal  of  trouble  and  anxiety.  This  was  the  most  serious 
defection  we  had  yet  had.  Every  month  almost  we  were 
liaving  additions,  more  or  less,  at  Leone,  and  there  also  we 
had  some  defections.  On  the  5th  of  August,  two  were 
excluded  and  twenty  received. 

Our  next  trouble  was  occasioned  by  one  who  has 
already  been  introduced  more  than  once  to  the  reader 
— Maunga,  the  chief  of  Pangopango.  He  was  an  im- 
pulsive, unsteady  man,  and  when  he  got  "WTong,  he  was 
inclined  to  be  very  headstrong.  He  took  a  step  now — 
it  was  a  marriage  affair  again — which  so  displeased  his 
people  and  the  subordinate  chiefs  that  they  deprived  him 
of  his  office,  and  banished  him  from  Pangopango,  ap- 
pointing anotlier  chief  in  his  stead,  a  quiet,  steady  man, 
an  own  son  of  the  former  Maunga.  Of  course  the  deposed 
chief  was  excluded  from  the  cliurch,  and,  connected  with 
his  fall,  there  was  another  defection  on  account  of  which 
we  felt  more  than  on  his.  This  was  the  widow  of  Pomare, 
wliose  brief  career  was  so  full  of  interest,  and  whose 
memory  was  so  fragrant  on  his  native  isle.  She  had 
been  a  woman  of  great  promise,  and  apparent,  perhaps 
real,  devotedness ;  but  she  was  naturally  ambitious  and 
aspiring,  and  to  be  the  wife  of  the  chief,  Maunga,  had 
attractions  for  her  before  which  she  yielded  and  fell. 
Maunga  and  she  wished  to  be  married,  but,  as  formerly, 
there  were  insuperable  difliculties  in  the  way  of  that. 
They  took  the  matter  into  their  own  hands,  and  eloped. 
After  a  length  of  time  they  were  married,  tlie  obstacle  to 


2o6       RESTORATION  OF  MA  UNGA— REMARKS. 

that  having  been  removed ;  and  both,  I  trust,  recovered 
themselves.  The  chief  who  took  Maunga's  place  when  he 
was  deposed  died  after  a  few  years,  and  he  (Maunga)  was 
reinstated  in  his  office ;  and,  as  he  appeared  to  have  truly- 
repented  of  his  misdeeds,  he  was  restored  to  the  church, 
of  which  he  continued  a  consistent  member  till  his  death, 
which  took  place  in  March  1849.  Poor  fellow !  I  trust, 
he  was  safe  at  last,  notwithstanding  his  grievous  fall. 
He  had  reached  the  years  of  manhood  when  he  first 
heard  the  gospel.  He  was  a  man  of  strong  passions, 
and  had  been  accustomed  to  live  as  he  listed.  Hence 
his  subsequent  course  is  the  less  surprising.  The  stand 
he  took  when  he  was  first  brought  under  convictions  was 
very  noble,  and  it  is  hard  to  account  for  it  on  any  other 
supposition  than  that  of  a  powerful  Divine  influence 
operating  upon  him.  It  is  difficult  for  those  who  have 
had  their  birth  and  education  in  Christian  lands,  and  who 
have  been  brought  up  under  the  salutary  restraints  and 
benign  influences  of  these  lands,  to  make  due  allowance 
in  a  case  like  that  of  Maunga.  Even  missionaries,  who 
are  in  favourable  circumstances  for  forming  a  just  judg- 
ment and  making  due  allowance,  are  apt  to  fail  in  doing 
so,  and  to  apply  pretty  much  the  same  standard  that  we 
should  to  those  who  have  had  all  tlie  advantages  of  a 
Christian  land.  We  know,  however,  who  has  said,  "  Unto 
whomsoever  much  is  given,  of  him  shall  be  much  required; 
and  to  whom  men  have  committed  much,  of  him  they 
will  ask  the  more." 

With  reference  to  the  woman  there  is  also  gTound  for 
hope.  She  was  restored  to  the  chureli.  She  was  spared 
many  years,  during  which  she  maintained  a  consistent 
course,  and  she  died  apparently  resting  on  the  true 
foundation. 

Towards  the  close  of  the  year,  the  history  of  which  we 
are  now  tracing,  we  had  a  pleasant  interruption  for  a  few 


LAST  VISIT  OF  THE  "  CAMDEN^  207 

days.  Tlie  "  Camden "  paid  us  a  visit  after  her  return 
from  her  last  missionary  voyage.  She  arrived  on  the 
11th  of  December.  Mr  and  Mrs  Buzacott  and  Mr  Heath 
were  on  board.  Mr  and  Mrs  Buzacott  were  returning  to 
their  station  at  Earotonga,  and  Mr  Heath  was  about  to 
proceed  to  England.  The  "  Camden  "  was  an  old  vessel 
when  she  was  purchased  by  the  Directors  of  the  London 
]\lissiouary  Society.  She  had  now  been  from  England 
about  five  years,  and  required  extensive  repairs ;  hence  it 
was  considered  advisable  that  she  should  go  to  England, 
either  to  undergo  the  necessary  repairs,  or  be  sold,  as 
the  Directors  might  determine.  The  result  is  known  to 
all  who  are  acquainted  with  the  history  of  the  Society. 
The  "  Camden "  was  sold,  and  anotlier  vessel  purchased, 
whose  history  we  need  not  anticipate. 

During  the  stay  of  the  "  Camden  "  we  had  one  of  our 
periodical  gales.  It  was  not  so  heavy  or  destructive  as 
that  of  1840,  but  it  was  pretty  severe.  After  the  gale 
our  friends  prepared  for  their  departure,  and  on  Friday, 
December  the  IGth,  1842,  the  "Camden"  took  her  final 
leave  of  Samoa. 

The  history  of  the  "  Camden's "  connection  with  our 
missions  does  not  extend  over  a  very  lengthened  period, 
but  it  was  in  a  high  degree  eventful  and  interesting. 
About  forty  years  had  passed  since  the  "Duff"  set  forth 
on  her  memorable  voyage  to  the  then  little  known  Isles 
of  the  Southern  Sea,  when  John  Williams  determined,  God 
helping  him,  to  get  another  mission  ship  in  order  to  push 
forward  the  evangelisation  of  the  numerous  islands  and 
groups  that  were  then  in  heathen  darkness.  By  the 
blessing  of  God  on  his  efforts  the  "Camden"  was  obtained, 
and  full  of  hope,  and  planning  great  things,  he  came 
forth  with  his  much-prized  treasure  to  the  work  on  which 
his  heart  was  set.  With  characteristic  ardour  he  entered 
upon   the   mighty  task  which  he  had   assigned  himself. 


2o8  LAST  GLIMPSE  OF  THE  "  CAMDEN." 

He  planted  the  standard  of  tlie  cross  on  the  island  of 
Eotiima,  and  on  Tanna  of  the  New  Hebrides,  and  then 
his  work  was  done.  He  obtained  the  martyr's  crown 
and  the  martyr's  reward ;  and  his  loved  "  Camden,"  and 
still  more  loved  work,  passed  into  other  hands.  Others 
entered  into  his  plans,  and  set  themselves  to  carry  them 
into  execution,  and  by  the  Master's  help  their  efforts 
were  crowned  with  a  large  measure  of  success,  as  the 
reader  has  already  seen.  Mighty  consequences  flowed 
from  the  purchase  of  the  "  Camden  "  for  missionary  work, 
and  from  her  employment  in  that  work ;  and  though 
her  term  of  service  was  so  short,  it  was  highly  dis- 
tinguished, and  has  not  been  eclipsed  by  any  of  the 
mission  vessels  which  have  been  employed  in  these  seas 
since  she  led  the  way. 


(   209  ) 


CHAPTER   XXVII. 

CLOSE  OF  1842  AND  ENTERING  UPON  1843  — CONTINUED  TRIALS  AND  DIF- 
FICULTIES— UNITED  MEETING  OF  THE  CHURCHES  AT  PANGOPANGO — 
REMOVAL  OP  MR  AND  MRS  BULLEN  FROM  UPOLU  TO  TOTUILA — MIS- 
SIONARY MEETINGS — MR  AND  MRS  BULLEN  ENTER  UPON  THE  CHARGE  OF 
THE  LEONE  DISTRICT — PLANS  OF  USEFULNESS — BOARDING-SCHOOL  AT 
LEONE — teacher's  CLASS  AT  PANGOPANGO — PROSPEROUS  STATE  OF  THE 
WORK  — CONTINUED  TRIALS. 

After  the  departure  of  the  "  Camdeu/'  nothing  else  par- 
ticularly noteworthy  occurred  during  the  remaining  days 
of  1842.  It  had  been  in  some  respects  the  most  trying 
year  we  had  spent  in  the  mission  field.  The  abrupt  and 
most  painful  termination  of  our  connection,  as  labourers 
on  the  same  island,  with  Mr  and  Mrs  Slatyer,  with  our 
own  deepening  affliction,  extending  from  the  beginning 
of  the  year  to  its  close,  had  stamped  it  with  a  peculiarly 
sombre  hue.  Nor  did  the  new  year  open  upon  us  with 
any  indications  of  an  assuring  character  as  regarded  the 
future.  Indeed,  at  no  time  had  our  circumstances  been 
more  trying  than  they  were  at  the  commencement  of  1843. 
Hitherto  I  had  managed  to  spend  at  least  one  Sabbath 
out  of  every  three  at  Leone,  though  more  than  once  I  had 
been  hastily  summoned  home  on  account  of  alarming 
symptoms,  which  rendered  it  doubtful  whether  I  should 
be  in  time  to  see  the  end. 

At  this  time  I  could  not  be  away  for  a  single  night,  so 
I  got  the  church  members  of  the  Leone  district  to  come  to 

0 


210  ARRIVAL  OF  MR  AND  31  RS  BULLEN, 

Pangopango,  where  we  had  a  united  meeting  of  both 
churches,  and  a  commimion  service.  We  had  pleasant 
and  interesting  services.  Twenty  new  members  were  re- 
ceived, sixteen  belonging  to  the  Leone  district,  and  four 
to  that  of  Pangopango.  Towards  the  close  of  January 
I  was  able  to  pay  a  hurried  visit  to  Leone.  I  spent  an 
interesting  Sabbath,  preaching  to  very  large  congregations; 
and  witnessed  marked  indications  of  prosperity  and  pro- 
gress. 

Throughout  our  times  of  trial  we  were  cheered  by  the 
affectionate  sympathy  of  our  fellow-labourers  on  Upolu 
and  Savaii.  As  opportunity  offered,  words  of  kind  con- 
dolence reached  us,  and  now  the  time  drew  near  when  we 
were  to  have  a  more  substantial  expression  of  sympathy 
than  words.  Peeling  it  impossible  to  attend  properly  to 
the  whole  of  the  island,  I  had  asked  the  brethren  to  send 
us  help,  and  had  proposed  that  Mr  and  Mrs  Bullen,  then 
occupying  a  station  on  Upolu,  should  be  removed  to 
Tutuila;  and  on  the  20th  of  March  the  joyful  tidings 
reached  us  that  my  proposal  had  been  approved  and  acted 
upon — Mr  and  Mrs  Bullen  were  appointed  to  Tutuila, 
and,  on  the  29  th  of  April,  we  had  the  happiness  to 
welcome  their  arrival,  to  be  associated  with  us  as  fellow- 
labourers.  They  remained  with  us  at  Pangopango  till  the 
1st  of  June,  when  they  went  to  Leone,  and  entered  upon 
the  care  of  the  station  there.  They  began  their  work  in 
their  new  sphere  in  circumstances  of  great  encouragement. 
The  people  were  delighted  to  have  another  missionary 
settled  among  them  so  soon,  and  there  were  decisive  indi- 
cations of  spiritual  life  all  around. 

During  the  interval  we  had  our  annual  missionary 
meetings.  They  were  held  at  Leone  this  year,  on  Wednes- 
day, ]\Iay  the  16th,  and  were  of  a  very  different  character 
to  those  held  at  Pangopango  after  the  departure  of  the 
"  Camden  "  in  May  1842.     We  had  a  very  large  gather- 


ANNUAL  MISSION  A  R  V  MEE  TINGS.  2 1 1 

ing,  as  we  had  not  yet  adopted  the  pLan  of  having  separate 
meetings  in  each  district.  I  preached  to  the  principal 
congregation  in  the  chapel  from  Mai.  iii.  10,  and  a  second 
service  was  conducted  in  the  schoolhouse  for  the  accom- 
modation of  those  who  were  unable  to  get  into  the  chapel. 

From  11  A.M.  till  4  p.m.  we  were  occupied  in  receiving 
the  contributions.  Money  was  still  a  very  scarce  commo- 
dity in  Samoa,  but  cocoa-nut  oil  and  arrowroot  were 
obtainable,  and  these  were  easily  converted  into  money. 
I  have  no  memoranda  at  hand  from  wliich  I  can  give  the 
amount  contributed,  but,  from  the  time  we  were  occupied 
in  taking  account  of  it,  though  we  had  ample  assistance 
from  teachers  and  others,  it  must  have  been  something 
very  considerable.  In  the  evening  a  general  meeting  was 
held,  at  which  spirited  speeches  were  delivered,  but  the 
meeting  would  have  been  more  interesting  and  profitable 
if  we  had  had  more  time.  It  was  Iield  in  the  open  air, 
and  continued  sometime  after  nightfall  The  spirit  of  the 
meeting  was  excellent,  and  appearances  altogether  were 
most  cheering. 

Mr  and  Mrs  BuUen  came  to  Tutuila  prepared  to  enter 
cordially  into  all  the  plans  which  we  had  been  led  to  adopt, 
with  a  view  to  the  deepening  and  extending  of  the  work  of 
God  among  us ;  and  they  were  in  full  sympathy  with  the 
state  of  things  which  they  found  on  their  arrival.  Hence 
all  went  on  smoothly,  and  there  was  no  stumbling  of  the 
people  by  the  sudden  adoption  of  new  plans  and  measures. 

On  the  21st  of  June  we  had  one  of  our  united  meetings 
of  the  churches — the  first  at  which  I  liad  had  the  presence 
and  assistance  of  a  fellow-labourer.  The  meetings  were 
interesting,  and  I  trust  profitable,  to  ourselves  and  the 
people. 

While  these  things  were  transpiring,  some  of  our  mem- 
bers were  passing  away  from  the  Church  on  earth,  and 
being  added,  as  we  trust,  to  the  Church  in  , heaven.     One 


212  HOPEFUL  DEATHS. 

who  had  suffered  long,  and  borne  her  sufferings  with 
exemplary  patience,  said  to  the  teacher  on  the  evening 
before  her  death,  "  I  am  just  preparing  and  waiting  till 
Jesus  send  for  me."  Another,  who  had  l^een  a  violent, 
quarrelsome  character  before  her  conversion,  which  took 
place  during  the  great  awakening,  but  who  since  that  had 
l)een  strikingly  the  reverse  of  her  former  self,  had  also 
been  long  a  sufferer.  She  had  borne  all  meekly  and 
patiently,  her  general  reply  being  to  those  who  alluded 
to  her  sufferings,  that  they  were  light  compared  with  those 
which  her  Lord  had  endured — the  same  thought  that 
Eobert  Hall  expressed  with  reference  to  his  sufferings 
when  near  his  end,  and  an  interesting  point  of  resemblance 
between  the  highly  cultivated  and  great  preacher  and  the 
poor,  untutored  Samoan,  who  knew  little  that  is  worth 
knowing,  beyond  the  one  great  truth  that  had  raised  her  to 
the  dignity  of  a  daughter  of  the  Lord  Almighty. 

As  soon  as  Mr  Bullen  got  settled  down  to  his  work,  we 
began  to  consult  about  plans  for  consolidation  and  exten- 
sion— for  edifying  those  who  had  believed,  bringing  the 
truth  to  bear  in  the  most  effective  manner  on  the  un- 
decided, and  laying  a  solid  foundation  for  the  future. 
Among  other  things,  it  was  arranged  that  a  boarding- 
school  for  girls  should  be  commenced  at  Leone,  to  be 
under  the  care  of  Mrs  Bullen,  and  a  class  at  Pangopango 
for  young  men,  to  be  trained  for  teachers  at  home  or 
abroad.  Girls  from  both  districts  were  eligible  for  admis- 
sion to  the  school,  and  young  men  also  for  the  teacher's 
class.  Land  was  obtained  at  Leone  without  difficulty, 
and  the  people  soon  erected  a  suitable  building,  and  the 
school  was  in  operation  in  a  very  sliort  time.  Mrs  Bullen, 
aided  by  her  husband,  applied  herself  with  great  zeal  to 
the  instruction  of  her  pupils  and  the  improvement  of  their 
habits,  and,  doubtless,  good  was  done.  Sucli  institutions, 
however,  have  not  been  found  to  answer  so  well  in  these 


A  JO  YFUL  REAPIXG- TIME  ANTICIPA  TED.      2 1 3 

islands  as  tliey  seem  to  do  in  otlier  parts  of  the  mission 
field.  All  that  loving  zeal  and  devotedness  and  aptness 
to  teach  could  do,  was  done  in  the  present  case ;  and  yet 
the  results,  so  far  as  they  could  be  traced,  were  not  all 
we  had  hoped  for.  That,  however,  is  not  very  far,  and 
when  the  great  reaping  time  comes,  many  a  faithful 
labourer,  who  has  gone  forth  w^eeping  and  bearing  precious 
seed,  with  very  humble  expectations  as  to  the  results, 
shall  reap  a  harvest  that  will  fill  him  with  glad  surprise, 
and  lead  him  to  exclaim  in  the  words  of  the  prophet,  "  I 
was  left  alone ;  these,  where  had  tliey  been  ? "  During  my 
long  connection  Avith  Christian  missions,  I  have  known 
few  more  likely  to  be  found  in  this  case,  than  the  estim- 
able woman  of  wliom  I  now  write.  She  came  to  the 
mission  field  glowing  with  love  to  God  and  man,  and 
longing  to  spend  and  be  spent  in  her  Saviour's  cause,  and 
while  the  opportunity  was  afibrded  her,  she  was  "in 
labours  more  abundant,"  and  of  her  I  may  say  witliout 
fear  of  exaggeration,  "  she  did  what  she  could." 

I  began  my  class  with  fourteen  young  men,  and  went 
on  with  it  till  some  time  after  the  formation  of  our  central 
institution  on  Upolu,  the  now  well-known  Malua  Insti- 
tution, on  a  scale  adapted  to  supply  the  group  with 
teachers,  and  also  to  furnish  a  supply  for  the  foreign 
field. 

After  the  settlement  of  Mr  and  Mrs  BuUen  at  Leone 
our  burden  was  much  lightened,  and  our  circumstances 
and  prospects  for  tlie  time  being  considerably  brightened. 
A  change  to  Leone  for  a  few  weeks  was,  by  the  blessing 
of  God,  of  great  benefit  to  Mrs  Murray.  She  returned 
home  very  much  improved  in  health,  and  the  state  of 
things  among  the  people  was  exceedingly  cheering,  and 
so  it  continued  during  the  remainder  of  this  year.  The 
great  drawback  was  ill  health.  Towards  the  close  of 
the  year  Mr  Bullen  had  a  tedious  illness,  which  extended 


214  CONTINUED  AFFLICTION. 

indeed  into  the  ne,w  year.  Mrs  Bullen  and  child  were 
•also  ill,  and  Mrs  Murray's  improvement  did  not  last  a 
OTeat  while.  Hence  we  were,  with  brief  intervals,  more 
or  less  under  the  rod.  It  seemed  as  if  a  constant  pressure 
were  required,  and,  doubtless,  it  was  so  ;  "  for  He  doth 
not  aiHict  willingly,  nor  grieve  the  cliildren  of  men." 
Often  and  earnestly  did  we  entreat  that  the  thorn  in  the 
flesh  might  depart  from  us  ;  but  He  who  knew  what  was 
best,  did  mot  see  fit  to  grant  us  our  request  according  to 
the  letter.  Doubtless,  however,  He  did  what  was  better. 
He  made  His  grace  sufficient  for  us,  and  perfected  His 
strength  in  our  weakness.  Mrs  Murray's  illness  had  now 
extended  over  two  years,  and  there  was  just  as  little 
prospect,  to  all  appearance,  of  any  material  improvement 
as  there  had  been  at  any  former  time.  Hence  her  circum- 
stances were  exceedingly  trying.  She  longed  to  labour 
for  Christ,  as  she  had  delighted  to  do  when  she  had 
health,  but  instead  of  tliat,  it  was  given  her  to  suffer  in 
His  cause — a  thing  vastly  less  agreeable  to  human  nature. 
But  amid  all  she  was  sustained,  and,  in  her  case,  the 
words  referred  to  above  had  a  striking  fulfilment.  His 
grace  was  made  sufficient  for  her ;  His  strength  wo.s  made 
perfect  in  her  weakness. 


(215) 


CHAPTEE  XXVIII. 

VISIT  TO  UPOLU — MEETINGS  OF  THE  MISSION — COMMENCEMENT  OP  THE  MALUA 
INSTITUTION — ARRIVAL  OF  MR  STALLWORTHY — SETTLEMENT  AND  80B3E- 
QUENT  COURSE — STRIKING  AND  AFFECTING  CLOSE  OP  HIS  LIFE  AND 
LABOURS — RETURN  TO  TUTDILA— MR  BULLEN's  VISIT  TO  MANUA — MAR- 
VELLOUS DELIVERANCE  OF  HIMSELF  AND  PARTT — MAY  MEETINGS — STATE 
OF  RELIGION  ON  THE  ISLAND  AT  THE  CLOSE  OP  1844 — SERIOUS  ILLNESS 
OF  MR  BULLEN. 

In  the  moutli  of  January  1844,  we  were  induced  to  try 
what  effect  a  change  to  other  parts  of  the  Samoan  group 
would  have  on  Mrs  Murray's  health ;  and,  on  the  30th  of 
that  month,  we  availed  ourselves  of  an  opportunity  to  go  to 
Upolu  by  an  American  whaler,  the  captain  of  which  had 
kindly  offered  us  a  passage. 

During  my  stay  on  Upolu,  two  meetings  of  the  mission 
were  held,  at  both  of  which  business  of  great  importance  was 
transacted.  I  shall  refer  particularly  to  one  only  of  the 
subjects  that  occupied  our  attention  at  these  meetings, 
Down  to  the  time  of  which  I  am  now  writing,  no  regular, 
systematic  effort  on  anything  like  an  adequate  scale, 
had  been  made  towards  training  a  native  ministry;  and 
now,  some  of  us  felt  very  strongly,  that  the  time  had 
come  when  a  central  institution  should  be  formed  on  a 
scale  adapted  to  meet  the  wants  of  the  group,  and  also 
to  furnish  evangelists  for  pioneer  work  among  the  heathen 
beyond  us ;  and  that,  to  effect  this  object,  two  brethren 
should  be  relieved  from  ordinary  station  work,  and  left  at 
liberty  to  give  themselves  wholly  to  the  duties  of  the  insti- 


21 6  THE  MALUA  INSTITUTION. 

tution.  The  meeting  at  which  the  subject  was  discnssed 
was  held  at  Sapapalii,  on  the  island  of  Savaii,  on  the  8th 
and  9th  of  February  1844.  All  the  brethren  of  the 
mission  were  found  to  be  of  one  mind,  and  it  was  resolved 
that  immediate  steps  should  be  taken  towards  the 
accomplishment  of  the  proposed  object.  Two  brethren 
were  appointed  to  take  charge  of  the  institution,  and 
authorised  at  once  to  take  the  necessary  preliminary 
action  in  the  matter — Mr  Hardie,  then  occupying  the 
station  of  Sapapalii,  and  Mr  Turner,  then  at  Vaiee  on 
Upolu.  At  tlie  subsequent  meeting,  which  was  held 
at  Fasitoo,  on  Upolu,  on  the  21st  of  March,  definite 
arrangements  were  made  for  commencing  operations  at 
the  spot  which  for  many  years  has  been  known  as  Malua, 
but  which,  at  the  time  referred  to,  was  without  inhabitant, 
and  covered  with  bush. 

Such  was  the  origin  and  commencement  of  an  institu- 
tion which,  by  the  blessing  of  God  on  the  zealous  and 
well-directed  efforts  of  the  tutors,  soon  took  an  important 
place  among  similar  establishments,  which  it  has  main- 
tained with  growing  efficiency  to  the  present  day.  Par- 
ticulars relative  to  its  history  for  many  years  after  its 
formation  may  be  found  in  Dr  Turner's  work,  "  Nineteen 
Years  in  Polynesia." 

There  is  one  thing  connected  with  the  Malua  Institution 
which  should  be  known  far  and  wide,  and  which  should 
surely  be  imitated  as  extensively  as  possible  throughout 
the  mission  field,  if  not  elsewhere,  viz.,  from  its  commence- 
ment until  now  it  has  been,  to  a  great  extent,  self-support- 
ing. How  this  has  been  effected  may  be  learned  from 
Dr  Turner's  work  referred  to  above. 

Little  else  occurred  during  my  stay  on  Upolu  deserving 
of  particular  remark.  The  settlement  of  Mr  Stallworthy, 
who  had  recently  joined  our  mission,  was  an  interesting 
and  important  event.     In  the  proceedings  connected  witli 


NO  TICE  OF  MR  ST  A  LL  WOR  THY.  217 

that  it  was  my  privilege  to  have  a  liand.  I  must  not, 
liowever,  enter  into  particulars  witli  reference  to  these ; 
but  a  brief  notice  of  the  life  and  labours  of  the  man  him- 
self will,  I  think,  interest  the  reader. 

Mr  Stallworthy  sailed  from  England  in  October  1833, 
and,  in  the  same  month  of  the  following  year,  he  com- 
menced his  labours  on  Santa  Christina  of  the  Marquesas 
group.  In  1841,  the  Marquesas  mission  was  given  up 
with  the  approval  of  the  missionaries  on  Tahiti,  and,  after 
T)eing  some  time  on  that  island,  Mr  Stallworthy  joined  our 
mission.  He  laboured  at  Falealili,  where  he  was  settled 
at  the  date  at  which  we  have  now  arrived,  1844,  till  1859, 
and  during  a  great  part  of  that  time  he  had  under  his 
care  a  very  large  district — all  that  constituted  Mr  Harbutt's 
before  Mr  Stallworthy's  arrival,  and  another  considerable 
district  in  addition.  At  the  above  date,  he  was  requested 
by  his  brethren  to  move  to  Malua  in  anticipation  of  the 
departure  of  Dr  Turner  on  a  visit  to  England.  He  had 
but  just  entered  upon  his  new  work  when  he  was  called  to 
rest  from  his  labours ;  he  had  just  completed  his  fiftieth 
year. 

Mr  Stallworthy  was  a  man  of  a  remarkably  catholic 
spirit,  and  of  large  and  liberal  views.  Though  occupying 
for  many  years  so  large  a  district,  and  necessarily  so  fully 
engaged  with  duties  connected  with  that  district,  his 
attention  and  interest  were  by  no  means  confined  to  his 
own  sphere  of  labour,  or  to  the  mission  of  which  he  was  a 
member ;  but  with  a  largeness  of  heart  and  a  breadth  of 
view  not  very  common,  he  regarded  the  progress  of  events 
in  the  Church  and  in  the  world,  keeping  himself  well 
informed  respecting  these,  and  manifesting  a  deep  interest 
in  their  bearing  upon  the  cause  of  Christ.  His  interest 
in  Polynesian  missions,  East  and  West,  was  peculiarly  deep ; 
and  his  conviction,  from  intimate  and  extensive  acquain- 
tance, was  very  decided  that  in  no  part  of  the  world  was 


2i8  AN  ENVIABLE  DEPARTURE, 

God  more  manifestly  summoning  His  Church  to  the  vigor- 
ous prosecution  of  heathen  evangelisation  than  in  Polynesia 
— that  nowhere  was  He  more  evidently  leading  the  way, 
and  by  His  providence  beckoning  His  people  onward  to 
conflict  and  victory. 

The  circumstances  of  his  death  were  remarkable  and 
peculiarly  affecting.  On  the  Sabbath  preceding  his 
departure,  he  discharged  his  accustomed  public  duties, 
and  appeared  in  his  usual  health,  and  when  he  retired  to 
rest  he  still  seemed  quite  well.  Notwithstanding  these 
appearances,  however,  his  work  was  done ;  he  had  rendered 
his  last  service  to  the  Church  on  earth,  and  was  on  the 
very  threshold  of  the  upper  sanctuary.  It  seemed  as  if 
he  had  been  unconsciously  led  to  preach  his  omti  funeral 
sermon.  His  text  was,  "  Let  me  die  the  death  of  the 
righteous,  and  let  my  last  end  be  like  his ; "  and,  on  the 
preceding  Sabbath,  he  had  preached  from  a  text  equally 
remarkable,  "  Come,  Lord  Jesus,  come  quickly,"  and  now 
both  these  passages  were  about  to  be  fulfilled  in  his  own 
case.  As  a  thief  in  the  night  his  Lord  came.  "  At  midnight 
a  cry  was  heard,  Behold,  the  Bridegroom  cometh !  "  And  if 
to  depart  in  peace,  having  lived  the  life  of  the  righteous, 
be  to  die  the  death  which  he  desired,  then  may  we  safely 
conclude  that  he  had  his  desire.  So  far  as  he  was  concerned, 
he  died  a  truly  enviable  death ;  he  ceased  at  once  to  work 
and  live,  passing  directly  from  his  loved  work  on  earth 
into  the  presence  of  his  Lord  above.  No  depressing  season 
of  suffermg  and  inaction  preceded  his  departure ;  no 
scenes  of  mourning  and  tears  wrung  his  bosom,  but  all 
unconsciously  the  many  strong  and  tender  ties  that  bound 
him  to  earth  were  loosened,  and  lie  awoke  to  consciousness 
in  that  world  where  cares  and  sorrows  enter  not,  and  tears 
are  for  ever  wiped  away.  And  what  a  mercy  was  this  to 
one  who  left  behind  him  a  widow  and  nine  children,  the 
eldest  of  whom  was  only  fourteen  years  of  age,  and  the 


DEPARTED  WORTHIES.  219 

youngest  ten  days !    About  3  a.m.  on  Monday,  the  7tli 
of  November  1859,  he  was  found  dead  in  his  bed. 

"  At  midniglit  came  the  cry, 

*  To  meet  thy  God  prepare.' 
He  woke  and  caught  his  Captam's  eye, 

Then,  strong  in  faith  and  prayer, 

His  spirit  with  a  bound 

Left  its  encumbering  clay  ; 
His  tent  at  sunrise  on  the  groimd, 

A  darkened  ruin  lay. 

"  The  pains  of  death  are  past ; 

Labour  and  sorrow  cease  ;  ; 
And  life's  long  warfare  closed  at  last, 

His  soul  is  found  in  peace. 

Soldier  of  Christ,  well  done  ! 

Praise  be  thy  new  employ  ; 
And  while  eternal  ages  run, 

Eest  in  thy  Saviour's  joy." 

Tlie  reader  will  doubtless  bear  with  the  MTiter  in  yield- 
ing to  the  temptation  of  doing  what  to  him  is  an  exceed- 
ingly grateful  work — penning  these  little  memorials  of 
loved  fellow-labourers  who  have  passed  away.  They 
afford  glimpses  of  faithful  and  excellent  men  who  have 
done  good  service  in  their  Master's  cause,  but  who  have 
been  so  circumstanced  that  men  have  heard  comparatively 
little  of  them  and  their  labours.  It  is  pleasant  and  en- 
couraging to  think  that  there  have  been  so  many  such 
connected  with  our  missions  in  days  gone  by,  and  that 
there  are,  as  we  trust,  many  now — good,  faithful  men  of 
God,  and  women,  too — labouring  quietly  on  in  their  respec- 
tive spheres,  thinking  little  of  either  the  applause  or  the 
censures  of  men. 

"  Ambitious  little  they,  to  be  by  men  admired, 
Ambitious  most  of  all  to  be  by  God  approved, 
And  have  their  naiues  recorded  in  the  Book  of  Life." 


220  RESUMING  WORK  ON  TUTUILA. 

But  to  return  to  matters  of  a  more  personal  character. 
When  we  had  been  about  ten  weeks  on  Upoki,  Mrs 
Murray's  health  was  so  mucli  improved,  that  we  thought  I 
might  return  to  my  work  on  Tutuila,  leaving  her  and  her 
native  attendants  in  the  care  of  kind  friends  on  Upolu, 
for  a  more  prolonged  stay.  So  on  the  13th  of  April  I 
left  in  the  "  Victoria."  a  small,  island-built  vessel,  takin2 
with  me  our  little  boy.  We  had  a  trying  voyage,  but  got 
safely  to  the  end  of  it,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  finding 
all  well  at  Tutuila.  We  found  Mr  and  Mrs  Bullen  at 
Pangopango.  They  had  kindly  come  round  to  visit  the 
station,  and  welcome  us  to  our  solitary  home.  The  cir- 
cumstances in  which  I  was  placed  were,  of  course,  fitted  to 
depress  and  sadden ;  but  my  mind  was  soon  diverted,  in  a 
measure,  from  dwelling  upon  my  own  personal  circum- 
stances and  concerns  by  important  duties  which  de- 
manded immediate  attention.  A  united  church  meetinir 
was  held  at  one  of  the  central  villages  on  AVednesday,  the 
17th  of  April,  the  day  after  I  reached  home,  and  on 
Thursday  I  accompanied  Mr  Bullen  to  Leone,  to  assist 
him  in  making  preparations  for  a  visit  to  Manua.  It  had 
been  arranged  that  he  should  embrace  an  opportunity 
which  offered  of  getting  to  that  group  in  the  "  Victoria." 
Manua  is  considered  as  being  specially  under  the  care  of 
the  Tutuila  missionaries ;  and  in  those  days  it  was  a  rare 
thing  for  an  opportunity  to  offer  of  getting  to  it  from 
Tutuila  in  a  vessel  of  any  description.  Moreover,  no 
missionary  had  done  more  tlian  make  a  passing  call  at  the 
islands  since  the  visit  of  Messrs  Heath  and  Buchanan. 
Thus  the  case  was  urgent,  and  Mr  Bullen  determined  to 
go,  though  there  was  a  formidable  difficulty  in  the  way. 
The  master  of  the  "Victoria"  would  not  agree  to  brinij 
him  back  to  Tutuila :  hence  he  had  to  trust  to  an  open 
boat  for  his  return  ;  but  as  the  wind  is  generally  fair  from 
Manua,  and  as  the  natives  were  constantly  going  to  and 


A   VISIT  TO  MANUA.  221 

fro  in  their  canoes,  and  serious  accidents  but  rarely 
occurring,  we  thought  that,  with  proper  precautions, 
we  should  be  justified,  under  the  circumstances,  in  tak- 
ing the  risk  which  the  step  involved.  ]\Ir  Bullen  took 
his  own  boat,  and  a  boat's  crew  with  him,  and  our  faith- 
ful friend,  Henry  Gibbons,  went  to  take  charge  of  the 
boat  on  the  return  voyage.  The  party  sailed  in  the 
"  Victoria,"  on  Saturday,  April  the  20th,  and  reached 
Manua  safely.  The  object  of  the  visit  being  accomplished, 
preparations  were  made  for  their  return,  and  on  the  16th 
of  May  they  started.  There  were  two  boats  and  a  large 
native  canoe,  so  that,  in  case  of  difficulty  arising,  help 
might  be  at  hand.  A  crew  of  natives  were  in  Mr  BuUen's 
boat,  and  he  and  Gibbons  and  a  boat's  crew  of  natives 
were  in  a  whale-boat  which  they  had  obtained  at  Manua. 
Whale-boats  are  considered  sj)ecially  safe.  Owing  to 
some  cause  or  causes  which  I  do  not  remember,  they  left 
Manua  rather  late  in  the  day,  and  it  is  sixty  miles  in 
a  straight  line  from  where  they  started  to  Tutuila,  so  they 
had  lost  sight  of  Manua,  and  had  not  sighted  Tutuila 
when  night  overtook  them.  The  day  was  fine  when  they 
set  out ;  but  as  night  drew  on,  the  weather  became  rough. 
The  wind  rose,  and  with  it  the  sea,  and  rain  poured  upon 
them  in  torrents.  Of  course  it  was  impossible  to  have 
lights  in  the  boats,  and  there  was  no  moon  by  which  they 
might  see  the  compass,  and  know  in  what  direction  to 
steer.  Hence  they  were  in  an  awful  plight.  Happily 
the  wind  was  fair,  and  drove  them  before  it  right  onward 
towards  their  destination.  But  their  situation  was  extremely 
perilous.  Between  them  and  Tutuila,  and  right  in  their 
track,  lies  the  island  of  Aunuu,  and  the  side  of  the  island 
which  is  towards  Manua  is  enclosed  by  an  iron-bound 
coast,  which  rises  abruptly  out  of  the  ocean  to  the  height 
of  forty  or  fifty  feet.  Had  they  been  driven  upon  this, 
and  it  was  perhaps  the  most  likely  thing,  humanly  speak- 


222  A  MARVELLOUS  DELIVERANCE. 

ing,  that  they  would  be,  they  must  inevitably  have  been 
lost.  There  is  just  a  bare  possibility  that  some  of  the 
natives  might  have  managed  to  swim  to  a  part  of  the 
island  where  a  landing  might  have  been  effected.  Their 
"  extremity,  however,  was  God's  opportunity ; "  His  eye 
was  upon  them,  and  He  wrought  for  them  a  most  marvel- 
lous deliverance.  If  they  had  made  any  other  part  of  the 
island  of  Tutuila,  within  ten  miles  on  either  side  of  the 
very  spot  they  did  make,  they  would  have  been  in  extreme 
danger.  And,  as  if  to  make  their  deliverance  the  more 
remarkable,  the  canoe  made  the  shore  a  short  distance  to 
leeward,  and  was  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  reef.  Happily 
all  lives  were  saved.  Being  natives,  and  used  to  the  sea  from 
their  childhood,  they  will  live  where  a  white  man  would 
have  no  chance. 

But  to  return  to  our  friends.  As  they  were  driven 
along  by  fierce  winds  they  knew  not  whither — the  night 
was  exceedingly  dark — all  hands  were  on  a  sudden  startled 
by  the  ominous  sound  of,  "  Breakers  close  to  ! "  Every  eye 
was  instantly  strained,  and  every  ear  attent,  and  the  cry 
arose,  "  Where  are  we  ? "  "  Is  it  Aunuu  we  are  upon,  or 
some  part  of  the  mainland  ? "  On  the  answer  to  these 
questions  their  safety  depended.  Of  course  the  boat's 
head  was  immediately  turned,  and  that  was  scarcely  done 
when  they  found  themselves  running  upon  breakers  on 
the  opposite  side,  and  tlien  a  thought  struck  them,  or 
rather  a  question  occurred  to  tliem — Could  it  be  that  they 
were  in  the  entrance  to  Pangopango  harbour  ?  And  so 
indeed  it  proved.  To  that  door  of  hope  and  safety  they 
had  been  guided  by  a  Divine  hand,  and,  in  a  few  minutes, 
from  being,  as  they  supposed,  in  the  extreme  of  danger, 
they  found  themselves  safe  !  Their  surprise  and  gratitude 
may  be  imagined ;  it  cannot  be  described.  The  boat  in 
which  Mr  Bullen  was,  led  the  way,  and  those  in  the  other 
were  enabled  to  keep  it  in  sight ;  so  that  both  the  boats 


PROGRESS  A  T  MANUA.  223 

were  safe.  The  deliverance  was  a  marvellous  one,  and 
deserves  to  be  had  in  remembrance  to  the  praise  of  the 
great  Deliverer, 

Seldom  have  I  had  a  greater  surprise  than  when  I  was 
aroused  from  sleep  on  the  night  of  their  arrival,  about 
eleven  o'clock.  The  time  had  come  for  us  to  expect  them, 
but  I  never  dreamt  of  their  making  their  appearance 
at  that  time  of  night,  and  in  such  weather.  My  impres- 
sion is,  that  during  the  day  the  weather  had  been  un- 
settled at  Tutuila,  and  that  it  was  a  stormy  night.  I 
listened,  of  course,  with  wonder  and  gratitude  to  the  mar- 
vellous tale  of  their  danger  and  deliverance. 

Mr  Bullen  found  an  encouraging  state  of  things  at 
Manua.  There  was  the  nucleus  of  a  church  there  before 
his  visit.  Five  persons  had  been  received  at  Tutuila  many 
months  before,  and  to  these  thirty  were  added,  selected 
from  about  300  candidates,  during  Mr  Bullen's  stay. 

Soon  after  my  return  from  Upolu,  we  had  a  visit  from 
a  British  man-of-war,  the  "  Hazard,"  Captain  Bell,  com- 
mander. During  the  stay  of  the  "  Hazard "  all  the 
principal  chiefs  of  the  island  assembled  at  Pangopango, 
and  resolved  to  make  an  application  to  Her  Majesty^ 
Queen  Victoria,  to  be  taken  under  the  wing  of  the 
British  Government.  They  were  induced  to  take  this 
step  chiefly  on  account  of  the  proceedings  of  the  French 
at  Tahiti.  Their  application  met  with  attention  and  a 
gracious  recej^tion  from  Her  Majesty,  as  will  be  noticed  in 
its  proper  place. 

An  amusing  little  incident  occurred  whUe  the  "Hazard" 
was  with  us,  which,  perhaps,  is  worth  mentioning.  Captain 
Bell  took  an  odd  fancy.  He  wished  to  take  home  in  his 
own  person  a  specimen  of  Samoan  tatooing,  and  in  order 
to  accomplish  his  object  he  must  have  the  services  of  a 
native  operator,  Tatooing  was  a  regular  profession  among 
the  Samoans.     0  Ic  Tufunga  ta  tatau,  or  the  tatoo-marker, 


224  TATOOING  IN  SAMOA. 

was  a  personage  of  no  small  importance  in  the  days  of 
darkness  ;  but  now  that  the  light  had  come,  his  profession 
was  no  longer  in  repute,  and  tatooing  was  numbered  among 
the  works  of  darkness,  and  abandoned  wherever  Chris- 
tianity had  been  received.  And  this  is  why  I  came  to  hear 
about  Captain  Bell's  tatooing.  After  trying  his  utmost 
without  success  to  induce  parties  who  were  acquainted 
with  the  art  to  operate  upon  him,  he  applied  to  me  to 
help  him  out  of  his  difficulty.  It  was  easy  to  make  the 
natives  understand  that  what  Captain  Bell  wished  them 
to  do  for  him  was  a  very  different  thing  to  tatooing  as 
they  had  been  accustomed  to  practise  it  in  their  heathen 
state.  So  their  scruples  were  got  over,  and  the  captain 
accomplished  his  object ;  and  I  took  care  to  guard  against 
the  tiling  being  regarded  as  giving  a  sanction  to  heathen 
tatooing.  As  practised  among  the  heathen,  besides  being 
barbarous  and  useless  in  itself,  it  was  always  accompanied 
by  a  variety  of  abominable  customs.  A  whole  train  of 
evils  generally  accompany  such  practices.  Hence,  on 
relative  grounds,  it  is  often  of  great  importance  to  get 
practices  discontinued,  which,  in  themselves,  are  compara- 
tively harmless ;  and  ignorance  of  this  fact  sometimes 
leads  visitors  to  go  away  with  the  impression  that  mis- 
sionaries attach  undue  importance  to  trifles,  and  forbid 
practices  in  which  they  can  see  no  harm,  but  in  which 
they  would  see  harm  were  they  better  informed. 

Soon  after  Mr  BuUen's  return,  we  had  our  annual  mis- 
sionary meetings.  They  were  conducted  much  as  in  former 
years,  and  need  not  be  particularly  described.  Two  days 
were  occupied  this  year,  instead  of  one,  that  we  might  not 
be  hurried  as  we  had  formerly  been.  In  addition  to  our 
accustomed  meetings  we  had  a  gathering  of  children,  with 
a  view  to  awaken  their  interest  in  the  missionary  cause. 
Between  five  and  six  hundred  assembled  from  the  two 
districts,  and  with  them  we  liad  an  interesting  meeting. 


MISSION AR  V  MEETINGS— CONTRIBUTIONS.     225 

The  contributions  consisted  of  between  two  and  three 
thousand  pounds  of  arrowroot,  between  two  and  three 
hundred  gallons  of  oil,  and  £10,  4s.  in  money.  The  ser- 
vices are  noted  in  my  journal  as  having  been  "  interesting 
and  encouraging  in  a  high  degree."  There  -were  two 
sermons  as  usual,  the  principal  of  which  was  from  Isaiah 
liv.  2,  3,  and  Carey's  two  celebrated  ideas — "  Attempt 
great  things  for  God,  and  expect  great  things  from  God," 
were  the  thoughts  chiefly  dwelt  upon.  Perhaps  friends  at 
a  distance  will  be  ready  to  smile  at  our  presumption  in 
pitching  upon  and  discoursing  upon  such  lofty  themes  in 
our  insignificant  and  obscure  corner,  and  to  such  audiences 
as  composed  our  congregations.  So  it  w^as,  however ;  w^e 
gravely  entertained  such  subjects,  and  sought,  by  the  help 
of  God,  to  act  upon  them,  and  to  stir  up  our  people  to  aim 
at  the  same. 

In  July  I  had  an  addition  of  five  young  men  to  my 
teacher's  class  from  Manua,  the  first-fruits  of  that  sort 
from  that  quarter.  Many  others  followed  in  subsequent 
years,  and  were  instructed  by  Mr  Powell  on  Tutuila,  or 
passed  on  to  Malua. 

During  the  remainder  of  this  year  we  Avent  on  much  in 
our  usual  way.  There  was  not  the  uninterrupted  progress 
of  former  years,  still  there  was  much  to  encourage,  and 
for  which  to  be  thankful.  My  long  absence  from  home 
had  proved  somewhat  disadvantageous,  still  we  had  no 
cause  to  complain.  Only  two  had  been  excluded  from  the 
church  during  the  year ;  seven  had  been  suspended,  six 
sent  out  as  teachers,  two  had  removed  to  other  churches, 
and  thirteen  had  died  ;  and  the  number  of  admissions  was 
forty-five. 

At  Leone  the  state  of  things  was  very  similar  to  what 
it  was  at  Pangopango.  The  frequent  changes  there,  and 
the  illnesses  of  the  missionaries,  were  trying  to  that  station. 
Towards  the  close  of  the  present  year  Mr  Bullen  was 

r 


226  SERIOUS  ILLNESS  OF  AIR  BULLEN. 

again  laid  aside  witli  a  tedious  illness,  wliicli  at  one  time 
was  so  serious  as  to  threaten  a  fatal  termination.  He  was 
taken  ill  early  in  December,  and  was  able  to  do  very 
little  in  the  way  of  work  till  towards  the  middle  of  Janu- 
ary. Thus  we  continued  to  meet  with  checks  and  inter- 
ruptions, but  in  the  midst  of  all  we  were  cheered  by  the 
assurance  that  our  labour  was  not  in  vain  in  the  Lord. 


(227) 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

ARRIVAL  OP  THE  FIRST  "  JOHN  WILLIAMS  "—RETURN  OP  MR  HEATH — ARRIVAL 
OF  MESSRS  POWELL  AND  SUNDERLAND — VISIT  TO  UPOLU — MISSIONARY 
VOYAGE — TEMPORARY  APPOINTMENT  OF  MR  AND  MRS  POWELL  TO  PANGO- 
PANGO — INTEREST  EXCITED  BY  THE  VOYAGE — NATIVE  PIONEERS — LEAD- 
ING INCIDENTS  OF  THE  VOY^AGE — CLOSE  OF  THE  VOYAGE — STATE  OF  THINGS 
ON  TUTUILA  ON  OUR  RETURN. 

The  first  noticeable  occurrence  in  the  year  1845  was  an 
event  of  great  importance  to  our  South  Sea  missions — tlie 
arrival  of  the  first  "  John  Williams."  She  reached  Tutuila 
on  the  31st  of  January,  having  on  board  our  brother  Heath, 
accompanied  by  two  young  brethren,  Messrs  Powell  and 
Sunderland.  Having  taken  oh  board  our  Tutuila  party, 
Mr  and  Mrs  BuUen  and  myself,  she  proceeded  to  Upolu, 
and  on  the  3d  of  February  she  anchored  in  Apia  har- 
bour. 

A  meeting  of  the  members  of  the  mission  was  held  at 
Apia  on  the  12th  and  13th  of  February,  at  which  much 
important  business  was  transacted,  most  of  which  was 
not  of  a  character  calling  for  particular  notice  in  these 
records.  One  or  two  things  may  with  propriety  be  spe- 
cified. It  was  at  this  meeting  that  arrangements  were 
made  for  the  publication  of  the  "  Samoan  Reporter " — a 
paper  designed  especially  for  circulation  among  our  per- 
sonal friends.  It  was  to  be  published  twice  a  year,  and 
Mr  Heath,  with  whom  the  thing  originated,  was  appointed 
editor.      The   design  was  to  supply  a  medium   through 


228  THE  ''SAMOAN  REPORTER!' 

which  reports  of  our  work  might  be  given  to  our  personal 
friends,  and  others  with  whom  we  had  relations,  and  so 
relieve  us  from  the  necessity  of  keeping  up  so  large  a  letter 
correspondence  as  would  otherwise  have  been  required;  and 
also  to  afford  an  opportunity  of  giving  to  the  world  any  in- 
formation of  importance,  scientific  or  otherwise,  which  our 
circumstances  might  enable  us  to  obtain.  The  publication 
was  kept  up  for  a  number  of  years,  and  the  object  we  had 
in  view  was  in  a  good  degree  answered. 

After  the  lamented  death  of  Mr  Heath  in  1848,  the 
editorial  department  was  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  Dr 
Turner.  By  him  the  interesting  series  of  ethnological 
articles,  begun  by  ]\Ir  Heath,  was  continued,  and  the 
other  matter  was  furnished  principally  by  other  members 
of  the  mission.  The  idea  of  the  publication  was  suggested, 
I  believe,  by  a  similar  thing  originated  by  the  late  Dr 
Milne  of  the  Chinese  mission. 

Another  arrangement  made  at  the  meeting  was  that  tlie 
"  John  Williams  "  should  proceed  with  the  least  possible 
delay  to  visit  the  out-stations  of  our  mission,  and  to 
occupy  new  ground,  as  far  as  we  might  have  the  means, 
wherever  eligible  openings  could  be  found;  and  Dr 
Turner  and  myself  were  appointed  a  deputation  to  carry 
out  the  objects  of  the  voyage. 

And  another  arrangement,  arising  out  of  that  just 
named,  was  to  us  personally  a  great  relief  and  satisfaction 
— Mr  and  Mrs  Powell  were  appointed  to  reside  at  Pango- 
pango  during  our  absence  on  the  voyage. 

On  the  12th  of  March  we  sailed  from  Upolu,  on  our 
return  voyage  to  Tutuila,  and  among  the  passengers  was 
Mrs  Murray,  whom  I  had  the  happiness  to  find  much 
improved  in  health.  We  reached  Paugopango  on  the 
following  day.  Great  interest  was  excited  among  the 
people  of  Tutuila.     They  were  delighted  to  sec  the  fine 


FIRST  VOYAGE  OF  THE  ''JOHN  WILLIAMS:'  229 

new  ship  *  and  tliey  gave  expression  to  their  pleasure  and 
interest  by  very  liberal  presents  to  tlie  ship,  and  also  to 
the  teachers  who  went  forth  in  her  as  evangelists  to  the 
dark  regions  of  heathenism  beyond  us.  On  this  occasion 
sixteen  persons,  nine  men  and  seven  women,  went  from 
the  church  at  Pangopango,  and  four,  two  men  and  two 
women,  from  the  church  at  Leone,  and  one  man  and  one 
woman  from  Manua. 

We  took  our  departure  from  Tutuila  on  the  29th  of 
March,  and  reached  Upolu  on  tlie  following  day,  and 
on  the  1st  of  April  we  sailed  from  Apia  for  Matautu, 
our  last  place  of  call  in  Samoa,  and  thence  we  stretched 
away  westward  on  our  missionary  voyage.  ]\Irs  Turner 
accompanied  her  husband,  and  Mrs  Murray  also  went, 
so  we  were  quite  a  family  party,  and  much  pleasant  and 
profitable  intercourse  did  we  enjoy  during  our  cruise. 

"We  directed  our  course  first  to  the  island  of  Rotuma, 
where,  it  will  be  remembered,  Mr  Williams  placed 
teachers  a  few  days  before  his  death.  Our  errand  to  the 
island  now  was  to  remove  our  teachers,  pursuant  to  the 
arrangement  made  in  London  by  the  Directors  of  the 
missions  of  the  Wesleyan  body,  and  the  Directors  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society,  as  Eotuma  was  within  the 
limits  assigned  to  the  Wesleyans. 

I  do  not  enter  into  particulars,  nor  shall  I  do  more 
than  give  a  mere  outline  of  our  proceedings,  and  of  the 
facts  and  incidents  of  the  voyage,  as  all  are  fully  narrated 
in  Dr  Turner's  Avork,  "  Nineteen  Years  in  Polynesia,"  and 
in  "  Western  Polynesia." 

In  the  New  Hebrides,  to  which  we  proceeded  on  leaving 
Piotuma,  we  found  perhaps  as  much  of  an  encouraging 
character  as  we  had  reason  to  expect.     Our  missions  on 

*  She  did  not  come  into  the  harbour  on  her  first  arrival,  so  they  had 
not  seen  her  before. 


230  BRIEF  NOTICE  OF  THE  VOYAGE. 

the  different  islands  of  tliat  group,  on  which  operations 
had  been  commenced,  were  still  in  their  infancy,  and  to 
find  here  and  there  indications  of  progress  was  matter 
for  thankfulness,  and  such  indications  we  thought  we 
did  find,  though  the  prospects  were  far  from  bright.  On 
Totuna,  the  first  island  of  the  group  at  which  we  called, 
the  teachers  had  been  murdered ;  the  nativ&s,  of  course, 
were  shy  and  distrustful,  and  the  door  was  closed  against 
us.  At  the  island  of  Aueiteum,  however,  a  gleam  of  light 
appeared  amid  the  dense  darkness — ^just  enough  to  keep 
hope  alive. 

On  Tanna  there  was  more  of  an  encouraging  character. 
A  favourable  reaction  had  taken  place  since  the  mission- 
aries and  teachers  w^ere  compelled  to  leave  the  island  in 
1843,  and  the  people  were  now  earnestly  desirous  that 
missionaries  should  again  take  up  their  abode  among 
them.  So  the  mission  was  resumed  under  circumstances 
of  much  interest  and  promise.  Operations  were  also 
recommenced  on  the  island  of  Niua.  Eramanga  was 
still  closed,  but  on  Vate  a  most  encouraging  opening  was 
found  and  embraced. 

Darkness  still  covered  the  Loyalty  Islands.  The 
teachers  w^ere  just  able  to  hold  on  ;  their  lives  were 
often  in  extreme  peril,  and  their  privations  were  many 
and  great,  yet  they  were  willing  to  labour  on  in  hope  that 
success  would  come  in  due  time.  On  the  Isle  of  Pines  a 
fearful  tragedy  had  been  enacted — the  mission  party  had 
been  all  murdered ;  and  such  might  be  their  lot  any  day, 
yet  their  faith  did  not  fail  them.  The  circumstances  in 
which  we  found  the  mission  on  New  Caledonia  were  such 
that  we  felt  constrained  to  abandon  that  island. 

Nothing  calling  for  particular  notice  in  these  records 
occurred  during  our  return  voyage.  We  got  back  to 
Samoa,  and  anchored  in  Apia  harbour  on  the  7th  of  June. 


RETURN  TO  TUTUILA.  ~  231 

Our  voyage  had  been  interesting  and  very  pleasant,  and 
though  we  had  not  accomplished  all  we  could  have  wished, 
yet  we  had  very  much  for  which  to  be  thankful ;  and  the 
trials  and  reverses  which  we  had  to  report,  though  of  a 
deeply  painful  character,  were  no  strange  things,  but  such 
as  have  been  common  from  the  beginning  wherever  efforts 
have  been  made  to  subvert  the  reign  of  darkness  by  in- 
troducing the  gospel  of  the  grace  of  God. 

We  were  detained  on  Upohi  till  the  19th  of  June. 
On  that  day  we  sailed  for  Tutuila,  which  we  reached  on 
the  23d.  No  tidings  of  our  home  and  people  had  reached 
us  since  we  set  out  on  our  voyage,  which  had  occupied 
three  months.  Hence  we  drew  near  Tutuila  with  some 
anxiety.  We  were  delightfully  relieved,  however,  on  our 
arrival.  We  found  all  well,  and  the  good  work  going  on 
encouragingly.  The  "  John  Williams  "  made  no  stay  with 
us,  but,  after  landing  us,  stood  away  at  once  for  the  Hervey 
and  Taliitian  islands.  In  order  to  avoid  detaining  her  at 
this  time,  it  had  been  arranged  that  Mr  and  Mrs  Powell 
should  remain  with  us  till  her  return. 

There  had  been  three  failures  in  the  church  during  our 
absence,  but  the  state  of  things,  on  the  whole,  was  such  as 
to  call  for  much  gratitude  to  God.  To  this  no  doubt  the 
presence  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Powell,  and  the  occasional  visits 
of  Mr  Bullen,  had,  by  the  Divine  blessing,  much  contri- 
buted, and  to  them  we  and  our  people  owed  a  large  debt 
of  gratitude. 

Meetings  were  held  in  both  districts  soon  after  our 
return,  at  which  accounts  were  given  of  our  voyage. 
These  were  listened  to  with  intense  interest,  and  ap- 
peared to  diffuse  a  healthy  influence  among  the  people. 
And  so  ended  the  first  missionary  voyage  of  the  "  John 
Williams." 

The  "  John  Williams  "  has  long  ceased  to  be ;  and  some 


232  ABIDING  RESULTS. 

of  the  loved  ones,  whose  presence  contributed  so  much 
to  the  interest  of  the  first  and  subsequent  voyages,  have 
also  passed  away — "gone  before" — but  the  effects  of  her 
voyages,  and  of  their  character  and  labours,  live,  and  will 
continue  to  live,  till  the  great  work  be  done, — 

"  And  the  kingdoms  of  this  worhl 
Are  the  kingdoms  of  His  Son." 


(233) 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

VISIT  OP  H.M.S.  "  DAPHNE  " — ARRIVAL  OF  MR  CONSUL  PRITCHARD — A  MESSAGE 
FROM  HER  MAJESTY  QUEEN  VICTORIA  TO  THE  CHIEFS  OF  TUTUILA — 
DEPARTURE  OF  MR  AND  MRS  POWELL — JUBILEE  OP  THE  LONDON 
MISSIONARY  SOCIETY — ENCOURAGING  STATE  OF  THE  WORK — DEPARTURE 
OF  THE  "  JOHN  WILLIAMS  "  FOR  ENGLAND — PERSONAL  TRIAL  CONNECTED 
THEREWITH — ARRIVAL  OF  THE  REV.  JOHN  GEDDIE  AND  PARTY  FROM 
NOVA  SCOTIA — REMARKS  ON  THE  ORIGIN  AND  BEARING  OF  THEIR 
MISSION. 

In  the  month  of  July  1845  we  had  a  visit  from  a  British 
man-of-war,  no  very  unusual  occurrence,  but  connected 
with  the  visit  of  H.M.S.  "Daphne"  at  the  time  referred 
to,  there  were  circumstances  which  invested  it  with 
peculiar  interest  to  the  Samoan  group,  and  to  the  island  of 
Tutuila  more  especially.  She  had  on  board  Mr  Pritchard, 
just  arrived  from  England  as  Consul  for  the  group ;  and 
she  brought  a  message  from  Queen  Victoria  to  the  chiefs 
of  Tutuila,  in  answer  to  the  application  from  them  for- 
warded by  the  "Hazard"  in  March  1844.  The  purport 
of  the  message  was,  that  the  Queen  declined  to  take  the 
island  formally  under  her  protection ;  but  that  she  would 
befriend  the  people,  and  not  allow  any  other  power  to 
interfere  with  the  independence  of  the  native  Government, 
or  to  have  a  greater  interest  in  the  island  than  herself. 
The  message  gave  great  satisfaction  to  the  chiefs  and 
people  ;  it  met  their  request  in  a  way  which  satisfied  them ; 
and  they  were  not  a  little  surprised  and  pleased  that 
they  should  be  treated  with  so  much  consideration  by  so 


234      DEPARTURE  OF  MR  AND  MRS  POWELL. 

august  a  personage  as  Queen  Victoria.  Happily  no  occa- 
sion has  yet  arisen  rendering  protection  from,  or  defence 
against,  a  foreign  enemy  necessary,  and  we  hope  none  ever 
"will ;  but  the  kind  and  prompt  response  of  the  Queen  of 
Great  Britain  to  their  application  was  a  great  encourage- 
ment to  a  people  who  felt  themselves  at  the  mercy  of  any 
great  power  that  might  be  disposed  to  treat  them  as  others 
in  circumstances  sunilar  to  their  own  had  been  treated, 
and  with  the  tale  of  whose  calamities  and  sufferings  they 
were  well  acquainted.  The  "  Daphne  "  arrived  on  the  13th 
of  July,  and  sailed  for  Upolu  on  the  23d. 

Captain  Onslow,  commander  of  the  "  Daphne,"  kindly 
offered  Mr  and  Mrs  Powell  a  passage  to  Upolu,  and  as  they 
were  naturally  anxious  to  get  to  the  station  to  which  they 
had  been  appointed  on  the  island  of  Savaii,  they  gladly 
accepted  Captain  Onslow's  offer;  so  we  were  deprived  of 
their  society  and  help  much  sooner  than  we  had  expected. 
We  felt  their  leaving  much,  especially  as  it  was  so  unex- 
pected, though  we  could  not  but  approve  of  their  wish 
to  get  to  their  own  station  as  quickly  as  possible.  The 
people,  also,  who  had  become  much  attached  to  them  dur- 
ing their  lengthened  sojourn  among  them,  felt  their  leaving, 
and  they  took  their  departure  from  Tutuila  followed  by 
the  grateful  affections  and  best  wishes  of  all.  Mr  Powell 
had  not,  of  course,  been  able  to  do  much  direct  missionary 
work,  as  his  acquaintance  with  the  language  was  necessarily 
very  limited ;  but  his  knowledge  of  medicine  had  been 
turned  to  good  account.  He  had  been  instrumental  in 
affording  relief  to  large  numbers  throughout  the  island  who 
had  been  suffering  from  various  maladies,  and  on  that  and 
other  grounds  his  departure  was  regretted. 

At  the  meeting  of  the  mission  held  on  the  arrival  of 
the  "  John  Williams  "  from  England,  it  had  been  arranged 
that  services  should  be  lield  this  year  at  all  our  stations, 
to  commemorate  the  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  London 


JUBILEE  SERVICES.  235 

Missionary  Society,  and  that  a  special  effort  should  he 
made  in  aid  of  its  funds ;  and  jubilee  services  were  held 
accordingly  throughout  the  group.  The  services  at  Leone 
took  place  in  the  last  week  of  August ;  those  at  l*ango- 
pango  in  the  first  week  of  September.  The  amount  raised 
at  I'angopango  in  aid  of  the  funds  of  the  Society  was  large 
considering  the  circumstances  of  the  people.  We  had  in 
cash  £21, 19s.  Id. ;  oil,  265  gallons,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
arrowroot.  Of  the  cash,  £3,  5s.  4d.,  and  of  the  oil,  36 
gallons,  were  from  the  children,  contributed  by  them  in 
imitation  of  the  noble  example  set  them  by  the  children 
of  England  in  the  p)urchase  and  outfit  of  the  "  John 
Williams." 

Mr  Bullen  was  with  us  at  Pangopango,  and  took  part  in 
the  services.  We  had  a  regular  service  in  the  morning, 
conducted  by  Mr  Bullen,  and  in  the  afternoon  a  public 
meeting  was  held,  at  which  some  very  interesting  speeches 
were  made.  It  appeared  that  there  had  been  some  talk 
about  so  many  of  our  people  going  as  evangelists  to  heathen 
lands,  to  the  effect  that  those  who  gave  up  their  rela- 
tives for  that  object  were  acting  foolishly,  and  (with  the 
exaggeration  in  which  fault-finders  of  the  class  referred 
to  usually  indulge)  predicting  that  soon  only  old  people 
and  women  and  children  would  be  left  in  the  land.  With 
reference  to  the  doleful  predictions  of  these  grumblers, 
and  the  charge  of  acting  foolishly,  which  they  were  bring- 
ing against  their  neighbours  and  countrymen,  interesting 
remarks  were  made  by  several  of  the  speakers. 

One  of  the  leading  men  of  the  village  of  Pangopango, 
who  was  for  many  years  a  pillar  in  our  church,  and  who 
remained  steadfast  unto  death,  spoke  to  the  following 
effect : — "  If  to  give  up  our  children  and  young  people  to 
the  cause  of  Christ  be  to  act  foolishly,  let  us  continue  to 
act  foolishly ;  let  our  land  be  left  desolate,  and  our  chil- 
dren fall  in  the  work  of  God ;  and  let  only  the  women, 


236  REFLECTIONS  AND  ANTICIPATIONS. 

and  the  weak,  and  the  ehiklren  be  left.  Don't  Jet  us 
grudge  our  children  to  the  cause  of  Clirist,"  with  much 
more  in  the  same  strain ;  and,  in  this  and  other  speeches, 
touching  allusions  were  made  to  2  Cor.  viii  9,  "  For  ye 
know  the  grace  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  that,  though  He 
was  rich,  yet  for  your  sakes  He  became  poor,  that  ye  tlirough 
His  poverty  might  be  rich." 

The  occasion,  on  the  whole,  was  interesting  and  solemn. 
The  past  was  crowded  with  recollections  in  a  high  degree 
suggestive  and  encouraging,  as  the  future  also  was  full  of 
promise;  but  still  feelings  of  solemnity,  mingled  with  a 
touch  of  sadness,  seemed  to  predominate.  The  tliought  that 
those  who  were  taking  part  in  the  service,  and  the  great 
bulk  of  those  who  united  in  it,  would  never  see  another 
jubilee  of  the  Society — would  be  all  in  the  eternal  world 
before  such  another  service  would  be  held,  was  fitted  deeply 
to  solemnise  our  minds,  and  lead  to  reflections  and  fore- 
castings  of  a  sombre  hue.  And  already,  though  many 
years  are  still  to  run  before  the  friends  of  the  Society  shall 
be  called  to  celebrate  its  centenary,  the  thoughts  that 
passed  through  our  minds  on  the  present  occasion  have 
become  facts.  Of  the  two  missionaries  who  took  part  in 
the  service,  one  has  long  been  taking  part  in  the  celebration 
of  a  higher  jubilee,  and  I  doubt  whether  one  of  the  native 
speakers  remains.  Such  is  the  evanescent  nature  of  all  on 
earth ;  all  that  is  external,  and  of  the  nature  of  means  and 
instruments,  passes  away  like  the  baseless  fabric  of  a  vision. 
But  there  is  another  side  to  the  picture.  The  changes  in 
the  future  are  far  from  being  all  of  tlie  sombre  and  melan- 
choly cast.  On  the  contrary,  there  is  joy — solid  joy — arising 
from  no  vain  dreams  or  baseless  fancies,  in  contemplating 
the  changes  tliat  the  future  will  assuredly  bring.  The 
precise  character  of  the  changes  before  us  we  do  not  of 
course  know,  but,  one  tiling  we  do  know,  viz.,  that  if  the 
great  end   at  which  missions  aim   be  not  fully  realised 


REVIVAL  AND  PROGRESS.  237 

twenty  years  hence,  it  will  bo  vastly  nearer  being  so  then 
than  it  is  now.  Taking  as  the  basis  of  onr  calculations 
the  progress  that  has  been  made  during  the  i)ast  half 
century,  and  allowing  for  eyer-increasing  facilities,  and 
ever-multiplying  and  extending  agencies  and  influences,  it 
would  be  an  intensely  interesting  problem  to  work  out, 
What  will  be  the  state  and  prospects  of  our  world  as  re- 
gards its  evangelisation  in  1895  ?  Surely  millennial  ages 
will  then  be  near,  if  they  have  not  actually  begun  to  run 
their  course. 

During  the  remainder  of  1845  we  went  forward  in  our 
usual  way,  nothing  particularly  noteworthy  occurring,  and 
so  it  was  also  during  the  early  months  of  1846 ;  but  about 
the  middle  of  that  year  we  were  again  favoured  with 
indications  of  revival  and  progress.  A  change  was  per- 
ceptible from  about  the  middle  of  May — from  the  time  our 
missionary  meetings  were  held.  There  was  nothing  par- 
ticularly remarkable  about  these.  The  services  were  of 
average  interest,  and  the  contributions  were  liberal ;  but 
it  was  not  till  the  first  Sabbath  of  June  that  unusual 
indications  of  spiritual  quickening  appeared.  On  that  day 
I  preached  from  Psalm  Ixviii.  9,  and  w^e  observed  the 
ordinance  of  the  Lord's  Supper,  and  many  of  the  people 
were  very  much  moved.  The  afternoon  service  also  was 
very  solemn,  and  for  a  length  of  time  we  continued  to 
have  growing  evidence  that  the  work  of  God  was  being 
deepened  and  extended.  The  church  and  the  teachers 
were  stirred  up  and  revived.  Inquirers  and  candidates 
who  had  grown  slack  were  aroused  afresh,  and  some  who 
had  hitherto  been  "stout-hearted  and  far  from  righteous- 
ness" were  subdued  and  brought  to  repentance.  Forty- 
one  were  admitted  to  the  church  during  the  course  of  the 
year,  and  the  state  of  things  altogether  was  improved.  It 
would  be  speaking  too  strongly  to  say  that  God  sent  us 
"  a  plenteous  rain,"  but  it  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  He 


238    THE  SOREST  TRIAL  OF  MISSIONARY  LIFE. 

sent  lis  refreshing  showers  by  which  He  confirmed  His 
heritage  wlien  it  was  weary. 

I  wisli  to  avoid  as  much  as  possible,  or  at  least  to  touch 
very  lightly,  matters  that  are  strictly  personal,  and  to  con- 
fine myself  to  things  that  bear  directly  upon  our  work,  or 
are  of  a  character  to  suggest  profitable  remark.  Still  I 
suppose  I  may  without  impropriety  notice  and  remark 
upon  a  trial  of  a  personal  character  which  came  upon  us 
towards  the  close  of  this  year,  viz.,  parting  with  a  child 
for  an  indefinite  number  of  years.  This  trial,  common 
though  it  be  in  the  mission  field,  is  a  dreadful  one.  There 
is  but  one  thing  with  regard  to  children,  judging  from  our 
own  experience,  to  be  compared  with  it — only  their  being 
taken  away  by  death ;  and,  in  our  case,  the  trial  was  inten- 
sified by  the  fact  that  at  the  time  referred  to  we  had  but 
one  child. 

The  "  John  Williams  "  arrived  unexpectedly  at  the  close 
of  October.  She  was  returning  from  a  cruise  among  the 
islands  to  the  west  of  Samoa,  and  was  on  her  way  to 
Upolu,  whence  she  was  to  start,  in  a  short  time,  for  Eng- 
land. Her  arrival  on  the  present  occasion  was,  of  course, 
regarded  by  us  with  anything  but  joyous  feelings  ;  and 
when  the  boat  left  the  beach  (the  vessel  did  not  come  into 
the  harbour),  bearing  away  from  us  our  only  child,  the 
feelings  experienced  on  returning  from  the  parting  scene 
to  our  desolate  home,  were  pretty  much  akin  to  those  which 
bereaved  parents  feel  when  returning  from  committing  the 
remains  of  a  loved  one  to  the  grave.  Between  the  two 
trials  there  is,  of  course,  this  difference — in  the  one  case 
hope  is  extinct  as  regards  the  present  life ;  in  the  other 
the  child  is  alive,  and  may  continue  to  live,  and  parent 
and  child  may  meet  again  after  long  years  have  passed 
away ;  but,  oh,  the  anxieties,  the  struggles,  the  yearnings 
of  the  intervening  years ! — these  no  pen  can  describe,  no 
tongue  fully  express.      Surely  all  in  Christian  lands  whom 


THE  ''JOHN  WILLIAMS''  GOES  TO  ENGLAND.  239 

missionaries  represent — especially  Christian^arcTi^s — should 
deeply  sympathise  with  them  in  this  trial  of  trials,  and  do 
their  utmost  to  supply  all  the  alleviations  of  which  the 
case  admits ;  and  this,  indeed,  they  are  doing  to  a  praise- 
worthy extent ;  but  let  them  beware  of  growing  slack  in 
this  labour  of  love.  Eather  let  them  abound  more  and 
more  in  a  service,  than  which  one  would  think  few  would 
be  more  acceptable  to  Him  who  has  said,  "  Inasmuch  as  ye 
have  done  it  unto  one  of  the  least  of  these  My  brethren, 
ye  have  done  it  unto  Me." 

The  "  John  Williams  "  arrived  off  the  island  on  the  29th 
of  October,  but  was  unable  to  come  to  anchor  on  account 
of  the  weather.  On  that  day  our  kind  friend  and 
fellow-labourer,  Mr  Nisbet,  who,  with  the  Eev.  W.  Gill, 
then  of  Rarotouga,  had  been  visiting  our  out-stations,  came 
in  in  a  boat.  The  vessel  was  driven  out  to  sea,  and  to  lee- 
ward of  the  harbour  ;  hence  the  dreaded  moment  of  separ- 
ation was  deferred  till  the  2d  of  November.  On  that  day 
the  vessel  got  sufficiently  near  for  a  boat  to  come  in  for 
the  passengers,  and  these  being  conveyed  on  board,  she 
stood  on  her  way  towards  Upolu. 

Nothing  else  calling  for  particular  notice  occurred  during 
the  remaining  months  of  this  year ;  nor  was  there  any- 
thing out  of  the  usual  course  during  the  greater  part  of 
1847.  But  towards  the  close  of  that  year,  an  event 
occurred  having  bearings  of  vast  importance  upon  our 
South  Sea  missions,  and  possessing  features  of  very  pecu- 
liar interest. 

Hitherto  the  Presbyterian  section  of  the  Christian 
Church  had  been  unrepresented  in  the  South  Sea  Islands, 
nor  had  any  British  Colony  in  any  part  of  the  world  un- 
dertaken a  mission  to  the  heathen ;  but  this  state  of  things 
was  no  longer  to  continue,  and  the  way  in  which  the  new 
epoch  in  the  history  of  modern  missions  was  introduced  is 
worthy  of  special  note.     Wlio  would  have  thought  that 


240    ARRIVAL  OF  PRESBYTERIAN  MISSIONARIES. 

one  of  tlie  smallest  and  least  known  of  the  British  Colonies, 
and  one  of  the  most  remote  from  the  sphere  of  action, 
would  have  been  honoured  to  lead  the  way — and  that  mainly 
through  the  instrumentality  of  a  single  individual ;  and 
that  the  small  beginning  would  in  so  short  a  time  have  led 
to  results  so  great  as  those  which  have  already  been  real- 
ised ?  Of  course,  it  is  all  in  keeping  with  the  usual  mode 
of  the  Divine  procedure,  but  how  different  is  that  from  the 
manner  of  men  ! 

But  to  proceed:  On  Monday,  October  18th,  1847,  to- 
wards evening,  Mrs  Murray  and  myself  went  for  a  little 
walk  down  towards  the  sea.  We  had  gone  but  a  short 
way,  when  we  were  startled  by  an  announcement  that  four 
boats  were  in  sight.  A  thing  so  unusual  led  to  all  manner 
of  conjectures  as  to  what  was  coming  upon  us.  Whence 
could  four  boats  have  come,  and  what  could  be  their 
errand  ?  All  our  conjectures,  of  course,  were  wide  of  the 
mark.  And  when  the  boats  reached  the  beach,  towards 
which  we  were  making  our  way,  and  the  natives  called  out 
that  "  there  were  missionaries  in  the  boats,"  we  were  at 
our  wits'  end,  and  our  wonder  was  at  its  height.  AVe  had 
no  reason  to  expect  missionaries,  and  coming  in  oj^en  boats 
too  !  The  thing  seemed  incredible — yet  so  it  was.  The 
Eev.  John  Geddie  and  IMrs  Geddie,  and  Mr  and  Mrs 
Archibald,  were  in  the  boats.  They  had  come  forth  from 
their  distant  home.  Nova  Scotia,  sent  by  the  United  Pres- 
byterian Church  in  that  colony,  to  seek  a  field  on  which  to 
commence  a  mission  on  some  island  of  Polynesia,  as  the 
providence  of  God  might  direct.  Their  instructions  were 
to  come  to  Samoa,  and  confer  with  the  missionaries  there, 
and  seek  their  advice  and  co-operation  in  carrying  out  the 
object  of  their  mission.  The  idea  of  a  foreign  mission  had 
originated  solely  with  Mr  Geddie,  and  like  most  under- 
takings of  the  kind — especially  wlien  they  originate  with 
comparatively  young  men — it  was  strongly  opposed  by  the 


ORIGIN  OF  THE  PRESBYTERIAN  MISSION.     241 

elder  men  of  the  cliurcli.  Some  of  these  were  not  mucli 
more  complimentary  to  Mr  Geddie  than  was  Dr  Eyland 
to  Carey,  when  he  ventured  to  nnfold  to  liis  seniors  his 
project  for  a  foreign  mission.  Tlie  same  hand  that  was 
upon  Carey,  however,  was  upon  John  Geddie ;  and  he  and 
his  heroic  wife  were  enabled  to  overcome  all  the  obstacles 
that  lay  in  their  way;  and  now  it  was  our  high  privilege  to 
welcome  them  to  the  mission  field,  and  bid  them  God-speed 
in  their  gTcat  and  nable  enterprise.  Mr  Geddie  had  been 
a  settled  minister  on-  Prince  Edward's  Island  for  eight 
years  before  he  decided  to  give  himself  to  foreign  mis- 
sionary work.  Still  he  was  comparatively  a  young  man 
when  he  came  forth  to  the  mission  field.  He  had  been 
ordained  to  the  work  of  the  ministry  at  home  when  only 
about  twenty-two  years  of  age. 

The  idea  of  seeking  a  field  in  the  South  Seas  was  not 
a  thing  of  haphazard.  It  was  suggested  by  a  fact  whicli 
deserves  a  permanent  record  in  the  annals  of  missions. 
The  United  Presbyterian  Church  of  Scotland,  in  response 
to  an  application  made  by  John  Williams,  when  he  was 
in  England  about  1836,  gave  a  sum  of  m-oney,  I  think 
£300,  to  the  London  Missionary  Society  to  assist  in  the 
opening  up  of  New  Caledonia  as  a  sphere  for  missionary 
labour,  the  understanding  being  that  missionaries  should 
be  furnished  by  that  Church  to  occupy  the  island,  as  sooii 
as  the  way  had  been  prepared  by  native  pioneers. 

All  this  was  known  to  the  United  Presbyterians  in 
Nova  Scotia,  and  they  were  led  in  consequence  to  turn 
their  attention  to  the  South  Seas  as  a  place  in  which  they 
had  some  interest. 

It  is  a  remarkable  illustration  of  the  common  saying, 
that "  Coming  events  cast  their  shadows  before  them,"  that 
the  mission  party  were  ultunately  led,  in  the  providence 
of  God,  to  the  very  island  towards  whicli  Mr  Geddie  had 
felt  especially  drawn  before  they  left  Nova  Scotia.     He 

Q 


242  LED  BY  A  RIGHT  IV A  V. 

had  read  the  account  of  the  introduction  of  Christian 
teachers  to  the  island  of  Aneiteum  in  1841,  and  a  desire 
had  taken  possession  of  his  mind  that  that  might  be  his 
sphere  of  labour,  if  such  should  prove  to  be  the  will  of 
God. 

Mr  Archibald,  a  young  man,  had  come  out  in  a  subor- 
dinate capacity.  He  was  to  act  as  schoolmaster  and  mis- 
sionary-assistant. His  connection  with  the  mission  lasted 
only  a  few  months  after  the  field  of  labour  was  reached. 
He  retired  to  Australia,  and  for  a  number  of  years  Mr 
and  j\Irs  Geddie  were  the  only  foreign  labourers  in  Western 
Polynesia. 

The  party  had  come  by  way  of  the  United  States  and 
the  Sandwich  Islands.  From  the  latter  place  they  had 
come  in  a  whale-shij),  having  made  an  arrangement  with 
the  captain  that  he  should  land  them  on  some  island  of 
the  Samoan  group.  Tutuila  was  first  made,  and  the 
captain,  without  having  any  communication  with  us,  had 
sent  them,  with  everything  belonging  to  them,  on  shore 
in  his  boats.  As  it  happened,  it  was  all  right.  They 
were  not  moving  at  random,  but  were  being  led  by  the 
right  way  towards  the  attainment  of  their  great  object. 

The  best  arrangements  of  which  the  circumstances 
admitted  were  at  once  made  for  the  accommodation  of 
our  guests ;  we  were  soon  at  home  with  each  other,  and 
the  foundation  was  laid  of  a  friendship  between  ourselves 
and  Mr  and  Mrs  Geddie,  which  subsisted  unbroken  till 
one  of  the  parties  finished  his  course  and  rested  from  his 
labours.  Many  were  the  hallowed  and  delightful  hours 
spent  in  the  society  of  our  dear  friends,  both  on  Tutuila 
and  elsewhere ;  but  I  will  not  anticipate. 

The  glad  tidings  were  of  course  conveyed  without 
delay  to  our  fellow-labourers  at  Leone,  and  our  brother, 
Mr  BuUen,  was  soon  with  us,  sharing  in  our  pleasure  and 
gratitude  on  account  of  the  auspicious  arrival,  and  rejoicing 


CONSULTATION  AS  TO  FUTURE  MOVEMENTS.   243 

ill  the  unexpected  opening  of  a  new  door  of  hope  for  the 
dark  regions  of  Western  Polynesia.  No  white  missionary 
liad  as  yet  obtained  a  permanent  footing  in  that  great 
division  of  the  "  island  world." 

Anxious  consultation  took  place  as  to  the  steps  that 
should  be  taken  towards  carrying  out  the  views  of  our 
friends ;  and  it  was  arranged  that,  as  soon  as  practicable, 
Messrs  Geddie  and  Bullen  should  proceed  to  Upolu,  to  be 
present  at  a  meeting  of  the  mission  which  was  about  to  be 
held,  and  confer  with  the  brethren  as  to  future  plans  and 
proceedings. 


(244) 


CHAPTEE  XXXI. 

MEETING  OF  THE  MISSION — DETERMINATION  TO  ATTEMPT  THE  EORMATION  OF 
A  MISSION  ON  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES — APPOINTMENT  OF  MR  BULLEN  TO  THE 
PROJECTED  MISSION — VISIT  OF  BISHOP  SELWTN— REMARKS — PREPARA- 
TIONS FOR  THE  NEW  MISSION — ILLNESS  AND  DEATH  OF  MR  BULLEN. 

According  to  the  arrangement  mentioned  at  tlie  close  of 
the  last  chapter,  Messsrs  Bnllen  and  Geddie  proceeded  to 
Upolu  to  attend  the  meeting  of  the  mission.  It  was  held 
early  in  November;  the  business  on  which  the  brethren 
went  was  fully  considered,  and  the  result  was,  a  deter- 
mination to  attempt  the  formation  of  a  mission  on  Vate, 
or  some  other  island  of  the  Xew  Hebrides,  as  the  provi- 
dence of  God  might  direct ;  and  ]\Ir  BuUen  was  appointed, 
in  conjunction  witli  Messrs  Geddie  and  Archibald,  to  the 
important  undertaking. 

Soon  after  the  return  of  the  brethren  from  Upolu,  we 
were  surprised  by  the  arrival  of  a  most  unexpected 
visitor.  On  the  18th  of  January  1848,  H.M.S.  "Dido" 
called,  having  on  board  Bishop  Selwyn  from  New  Zealand. 
The  Bishop  spent  the  greater  part  of  two  days  witli  us, 
and  we  had  much  very  pleasant  intercourse.  He 
manifested  anytliiug  but  an  exclusive  or  intolerant 
spirit.  Our  regular  week-day  service  was  held  while  he 
was  with  us,  and  he  not  only  attended  the  service,  but 
took  part  in  it,  by  giving  an  address  to  the  natives. 
His  address  was  given  in  English,  and  by  me  interpreted 


VISIT  OF  BISHOP  SELWYN.  245 

to  the  natives.  He  appeared  full  of  missionary  zeal, 
and  a  very  warm  friend  to  the  native  races.  His  conduct 
and  bearing  towards  all  the  members  of  our  mission 
were  exceedingly  kind  and  Christian ;  and  in  all  our 
subsequent  intercoui-se,  though  some  serious  difficulties 
arose  in  arranging  our  fields  of  labour,  he  uniformly  acted 
as  a  Christian  and  a  gentleman.  With  reference  to  an 
island  on  which  we  had  long  had  teachers  at  work,  to 
which  he  took   a   great  fancy,  he  remarked   to   me,   "  I 

should  very  much  like  to  have  ,  but  I  will  not 

take  possession  of  another  man's  field  without  his  consent ; 
the  apostle  Paul  tells  me  not  to  do  so,  and  I  will  not." 
How  much  trouble  and  vexation  and  mischief  might 
have  been  avoided,  and  what  a  saving  might  have  been 
effected  in  missionary  resources,  if  all  missionaries  and 
missionary  directors  had  acted  an  equally  honourable  and 
Christian  part  with  Bishop  Selwyn  !  If  the  autliority  of 
the  apostle  Paul  were  allowed  to  rule  as  it  was  in  the 
Bishop's  case,  all  unseemly  strife  and  contention  would  be 
at  an  end. 

And  during  the  many  years  that  the  Bishop  went  about 
on  his  missionary  voyages,  our  missionaries  and  teachers 
in  the  Loyalty  Islands  and  the  New  Hebrides  were  in- 
debted to  him  for  many  acts  of  kindness.  In  the  early 
days  of  the  New  Hebrides  mission,  especially  when  Mr 
and  Mrs  Geddie  were  toiling  and  suffering  alone  in 
Western  Polynesia,  the  visits  of  the  kind,  genial  Bishop 
were  most  seasonable  and  welcome ;  and  when  Mr  and 
Mrs  Ingiis  determined  to  leave  New  Zealand,  where  they 
had  laboured  for  some  years,  and  join  the  Aneiteum 
mission,  the  Bishop  brought  them  and  their  property  in 
his  own  vessel  to  their  new  station,  and  I  need  hardly 
add,  without  expense  to  them  and  tlie  Society  to  which 
they  belong.  On  the  Avhole,  the  Bishop  deserves  to  be, 
and  is,  gratefully  and  affectionately  remembered  through- 


246    PREPARATIONS  FOR  PROJECTED  MISSION. 

out  our  missions,  and  so  lie  will  continue  to  be  as  long  as 
any  of  those  to  whom  he  was  known  remain.  That  he 
may  be  long  spared,  and  be  very  happy  and  useful  in 
his  present  important  sphere,  is,  I  doubt  not,  the  hearty 
wish  and  prayer  of  all  his  old  friends  throughout  Poly- 
nesia.* 

Soon  after  the  return  of  the  brethren  Messrs  Geddie  and 
Bullen  from  Upolu,  they  set  to  work  to  make  preparations 
for  their  mission.  As  they  expected  to  be  associated  in 
their  future  labours,  they  remained  together  at  Leone. 
The  principal  thing  required  was  the  frame  of  a  house, 
and  that  involved  a  great  deal  of  heavy  work,  as  every 
bit  of  wood  had  to  be  cut  from  the  bush.  The  felling  of 
the  timber  and  dragging  it  down  to  the  village  was  done 
by  the  natives,  and  some  other  of  the  heavier  parts  of 
the  work  was  also  done  by  them ;  but  a  large  share  fell 
to  the  lot  of  the  brethren  themselves,  and  there  was  not 
a  great  deal  of  time  in  which  to  get  through  that  and 
other  necessary  things.  Mr  and  Mrs  Archibald  remained 
with  us  at  Pangopango,  and  ]\Ir  A.  employed  himself  in 
similar  work  to  that  which  occupied  Messrs  Bullen  and 
Geddie. 

Time  wore  on,  and  the  arrival  of  the  "  John  Williams," 
by  which  the  party  expected  to  proceed  to  their  destined 
sphere  of  labour,  might  not  be  distant ;  Mrs  Murray  went 
on  to  Leone  to  pay  a  farewell  visit  to  her  dear  sister  from 

*  Since  the  above  was  written,  I  have  observed  with  deep  regret  that 
Bishop  Selwyn  has  adopted  a  pc;licy,  in  managing  the  affairs  of  his  diocese, 
whicli  will  disappoint  and  grieve  all  his  old  friends  in  the  mission  field,  viz., 
that  of  sanctioning,  and  of  course  abetting  to  some  extent,  the  Romanising 
party  in  the  Church  of  England.  It  seems  very  sad  that  so  amiable  and 
zealous  a  man  should  countenance  and  abet  practices  which  are  fast  work- 
ing the  ruin  of  the  Church  which  he  so  much  venerates  and  loves,  and  of 
whose  interests  he  is  bound  to  be,  and  no  doubt  means  to  be,  a  faithful 
guardian  and  conservator  to  the  utmost  of  his  power  and  influence.  Alas ! 
alas  !  what  strange  and  mournful  transformations,  positions  and  circum- 
stances bring  about ! 


ILLXESS  OF  jrR  BULLEN.  247 

wliom  slie  expected  soon  to  be  separated,  and  we  were  all 
anticipating,  without  any  misgivings,  the  speedy  carrying 
out  of  our  plans. 

Alas !  how  wide  of  the  mark  were  we  in  our  calculations 
and  expectations  !  While  no  warning  cloud  dimmed  our 
horizon,  we  were  on  the  eve  of  a  change  of  which  none  of 
us  had  dreamt,  which  disarranged  our  plans,  and  brought 
a  dark  and  portentous  cloud  over  the  great  undertaking 
which  we  had  been  regarding  with  such  joyous  and  hopeful 
anticipations. 

A  united  meeting  of  the  churches  of  both  districts  was 
to  be  held  at  Tafuna,  a  central  village,  on  Wednesday  the 
10th  of  ]\Iarch,  at  which  ]\Ir  BuUen  was  to  preach,  and 
which  was  to  be  of  a  valedictory  character,  as  it  was 
uncertain  how  soon  the  "John  Williams"  would  arrive. 
On  Monday,  I  received  a  note  from  ]\Ir  Geddie  stating 
that  Mr  BuUen  was  not  well,  and  that  he  would  not  be 
able  to  preach  as  had  been  arranged,  though  he  hoped  to 
be  present  at  the  service.  On  the  day  appointed,  I  went 
with  the  people  of  our  district  to' the  place  of  meeting, 
where  I  was  met  by  our  brother  Geddie  alone.  Mr  Bullen's 
illness  had  greatly  increased,  and  the  symptoms  were 
those  of  acute  rheumatism,  brought  on  by  fatigue  and 
exposure.  He  had  been  weakened  by  the  hard  work  in 
which  he  and  Mr  Geddie  had  been  engaged — work  to  which 
his  strength  was  not  equal,  and  to  which  he  was  quite 
unaccustomed.  While  thus  weakened,  he  had  gone  in 
company  with  Mr  Geddie  to  pay  a  farewell  visit  to  Aoloau, 
a  village  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  island.  Tliey  had  a 
long  and  very  fatiguing  walk.  It  is  a  most  laborious  walk 
even  for  a  person  hale  and  strong.  The  road  is  very  steep 
on  both  sides,  and  when  the  mountain  ridge  is  reached  in 
the  centre  of  the  island,  the  traveller  is  bathed  in  perspira- 
tion, and  perhaps  drenched  with  rain  as  well.  Such,  I 
think,  was   tlie  case  with  our    friends  on  the  fatal  day 


248  PROGRESS  OF  THE  DISEASE. 

of  their  journey,  and  a  fresh  hreeze  generally  blows  from 
the  one  side  or  the  other,  and  the  temptation  of  com-se  is 
very  strong  to  sit  down  to  rest  and  enjoy  the  cool  breeze ; 
and  to  this  temptation  our  friends  yielded,  and  the  conse- 
quence was  that  Mr  Bullen  received  a  chill,  which,  together 
with  what  followed,  cost  him  his  life. 

JMeetings  were  held  with  the  people  of  Aoloau  the  same 
evening,  and,  on  the  following  morning,  he  and  his  friend 
returned  to  Leone,  again  walking  across  the  island.  The 
distance  is  not  very  great,  perhaps  not  more  than  from  six 
to  eight  miles  ;  but  it  is  an  exceedingly  trying  walk.  Mr 
Bullen  was  taken  ill  immediately  on  his  return  home,  or 
rather  I  suppose  he  was  ill  when  he  reached  home,  and 
his  illness  rapidly  increased,  and  assumed  a  serious  aspect. 
Mr  Geddie,  who  was  tough  and  wiry,  and  probably  had 
been  more  accustomed  to  fatigue  and  hard  Avork,  escaped 
with  but  little  inconvenience. 

After  the  services  at  Tafuna,  I  went  on  to  Leone  with 
Mr  Geddie,  and  found  our  brother  as  above  described — 
very  ill.  He  was  suffering  great  pain,  but  we  did  not 
apprehend  danger.  On  the  following  morning  he  appeared 
somewhat  better,  and  as  I  was  much  needed  at  home,  I 
returned  on  that  day  to  Pangopango.  I  should  have 
returned  again  to  Leone  on  Monday  morning,  as  unfavour- 
able tidings  had  reached  us  in  the  meanwhile :  but  Mrs 
Murray  was  taken  ill  on  Sabbatli  evening,  and  was  not 
in  a  fit  state  to  be  left.  I  started,  however,  early  on 
Tuesday,  and  had  the  satisfaction  to  find  our  friend 
apparently  a  little  better  than  he  had  been.  The  pain 
was  less  severe,  and  altogether  appearances  were  hopeful. 
And  so  they  continued  till  Thursday  morning;  then  he 
appeared  decidedly  worse,  and  in  tlie  afternoon  of  that 
day  his  mind  began  to  wander,  and  throughout  the  night 
he  was  very  ill.  He  was  in  a  high  fever,  and  the  disease 
seemed  to  be  rapidly  gaining  ground  in  spite  of  all  our 


FATAL  TERMINATION.  249 

efforts  to  check  its  progress ;  and  on  Friday  morning  our 
worst  fears  were  confirmed.  There  was  no  mistaking  the 
symptoms ;  our  friend  was  evidently  dying.  Oh,  what  a 
shock  did  I  experience  when,  drawing  aside  the  curtains 
on  that  sad  morning,  the  conviction  forced  itself  upon  me 
that  our  brother  was  dying !  and  what  a  sad,  gloomy  day 
followed  !  The  mournJFul  truth  could  not  be  concealed 
from  her  on  whom  the  stroke  would  most  heavily  fall; 
and  how  intensely  painful  a  duty  was  it  to  apprise  her 
of  what  was  now  at  hand  ! 

He  w\as  speechless  during  the  remaining  hours  of  his 
life,  but  retained  a  degree  of  consciousness.  He  could 
only  gaze  wistfully  on  the  dear  ones  he  was  about  to 
leave,  and  speak  to  their  hearts  by  looks  of  yearning 
affection,  the  general  import  of  which  it  was  not  difficult 
to  understand  ;  but  his  inability  to  speak  was  very  affect- 
ing to  the  mourners  wdio  watched  around  his  bed.  As 
passages  of  Scripture  and  hymns  were  repeated,  and  words 
of  consolation  dropped,  he  signified  from  time  to  time  that 
he  understood  what  was  being  said,  and  that  his  mind  was 
in  peace.  He  continued  gradually  sinking  till  about  three 
P.M.,  when  he  ceased  to  breathe,  and  his  spirit  passed 
peacefully  away  to  the  land  of  rest : 

"  So  fades  a  summer  cloud  away, 
So  sinks  the  gale  •\vlieu  storms  are  o'er, 
So  gently  shuts  the  eye  of  day. 
So  dies  a  wave  along  the  shore." 

So  indeed  it  was,  a  calm  and  peaceful  departure.  The 
gale  had  spent  itself,  the  storm  was  over,  and  to  him  who 
was  gone  it  was  no  doubt  gain.  But,  oh !  what  a  blow 
had  fallen  upon  those  he  had  left — the  widow  and  her 
three  little  ones,  who  were  too  young  to  understand  their 
loss !  The  stroke  came  upon  us  so  suddenly  and  so  unex- 
pectedly, and,  as  it  appeared  to  us,  so  unseasonably,  that 


250  BURIAL— REMARKS. 

we  all  felt  it  very  deeply.  Its  aspect  towards  the  new 
mission  appeared  especially  mysterious  ;  and  to  us  all  it 
looked  dark — very  dark,  on  the  human  side,  and  we 
could  only  find  relief  by  turning  to  that  side  which,  to 
the  eye  of  faith,  is  ever  bright. 

On  the  following  day,  Saturday,  the  remains  of  our 
dear  brother  were  committed  to  the  grave.  The  grave 
was  dug  near  the  spot  where  his  infant  son  had  been 
buried  about  twelve  months  before  ;  and,  while  the 
digging  was  in  jorogress,  the  little  coffin  was  found;  so 
father  and  son  were  laid  together  in  the  same  grave. 
Before  leaving  the  house  of  mourning,  the  soul-cheering 
words  in  2  Corinthians,  about  the  resurrection  and  the 
life,  which  have  been  balm  to  so  many  bleeding  hearts 
as  the  remains  of  tlieir  dear  ones  have  been  laid  in  the 
tomb,  were  read;  prayer  was  offered,  and  an  address 
given  from  Eev.  xiv.  13,  and  then  all  that  was  mortal 
of  our  departed  brother  was  laid  in  the  grave — in  the 
little  burial-ground  to  which  we  have  already  had  occa- 
sion more  than  once  to  introduce  the  reader.  There  he 
sleeps,  side  by  side  with  the  beloved  Lundie,  and  other 
dear  ones  who  have  since  found  a  resting-place  within  the 
same  enclosure : — 

"  We  laid  them  down  to  sleep, 
But  not  in  hope  forlorn  ; 
We  laid  them  but  to  ripen  there 
Till  the  last  glorious  morn." 

On  the  following  day,  Sabbath,  I  sought  to  improve  the 
solemn  event  by  addressing  the  natives  in  the  morning 
from  Heb.  xiii.  7,  and  in  tlie  afternoon  from  Heb.  xii.  5. 

It  was  a  great  relief  and  comfort  to  us  all,  under  the 
very  trying  and  painful  circumstances  in  which  we  were 
placed,  that  our  kind  friends  Mr  and  ]\Irs  Geddie  were 
with  us.     But  for  theu*  presence  at  Leone,  it  would  hardly 


CHARACTER  OF  MR  BULLEN.  251 

Imve  been  possible  for  me  to  have  left  so  soon  as  I  did ; 
such  was  the  state  of  things  at  my  own  home  that  my 
presence  there  was  urgently  needed. 

Mr  Bullen's  term  of  service,  as  the  reader  has  seen, 
was  short.  It  was  'not  quite  seven  years.  He  spent 
about  two  years  on  Upolu,  and  the  remainder  on  Tutuila. 
He  was  very  warmly  attached  to  missionary  work.  In 
early  life,  when  he  was  yet  in  his  "  first  love,"  an  earnest 
desire  to  be  engaged  in  that  work  took  possession  of  his 
mind,  and  he  gave  himself  to  preparation  for  it  with  a 
remarkable  degree  of  warmth  and  singleness  of  purpose. 
The  depth  aiid  sincerity  of  his  attachment  to  missionary 
work  were  severely  tested.  Discouragements  were  thrown 
in  his  way  before  which  a  less  ardent  attachment  and  a 
feebler  purpose  would  have  given  way.  Not  so,  however, 
Avas  it  with  our  brother.  When  one  door  was  closed, 
and  hopes  that  had  been  highly  raised  dashed  to  the 
ground,  he  sought  to  gain  his  object  in  another  way ; 
and,  after  years  spent  in  preparatory  studies,  he  renewed 
his  offer  of  service  for  the  foreign  field ;  and  he  came 
forth  to  his  loncf-desired  work,  and  threw  hhnself  into  it 
with  a  zeal  and  an  ardour  in  keeping  with  his  early  pre- 
ference. It  was  probably  his  desire  for  a  wider  sphere 
than  he  had  at  Leone,  and  a  wisli  to  break  up  new  ground 
among  the  dark  regions  to  the  west  of  Samoa,  that  led 
him  to  offer  himself  for  service  there.  But  that  was  a 
work  to  which  his  physical  strength  did  not  seem  equal ; 
hence  his  health  gave  way  on  the  threshold,  and  his 
life  and  labours  were  brought  to  what  seemed  to  us  an 
untimely  close.  He  could  only  have  been  about  thirty- 
two  years  of  age.  His  deatli  took  place  on  the  24th  of 
March  1848.  And  so  his  brief  course  closed;  he  rested 
from  his  labours,  and  his  works  followed  him ;  and  another 
of  tliose  mysterious  dispensations  which  had  so  often 
occurred  in  our  mission  supplied  lessons  of  warning  and 


LESSOA'S. 


caution  to  tliose  of  us  who  vreve  left,  teaching  us  to 
improve  the  present,  and  not  to  build  upon  the  uncertain 
future.  Very  affectingly  and  forcibly  were  we  taught  to 
cease  from  man,  and  to  look  with  greater  singleness  of 
heart  and  simplicity  of  purpose  to  Him  who  is  "  the  same 
yesterday,  to-day,  and  forever," 


(253) 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

MIS5I0NAKY  SERVICES — RETURN  OP  TUE  "  JOHN  -WILLIAMS  "  FROM  ENGLAND — 
ARRIVAL  OF  MESSRS  ELLA  AND  SCHMIDT — MEETING  OF  THE  MISSION — 
ARRANGEMENTS  TO  MEET  THE  ALTERED  CIRCDMSTANCES  WITH  RE- 
FERENCE TO  THE  NEW  MISSION — COMMENCEMENT  OF  THE  MISSION  ON 
ANEITEUM  OF  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES — RETURN  TO  TUTUILA — VISIT  TO 
LEONE — ENCOURAGING  STATE  OF  THINGS  IN  BOTH  DISTRICTS  ON  TUTUILA 
— REMOVAL  TO  LEONE. 

The  "  John  Williams  "  did  not  arrive  till  the  27th  of  May. 
In  the  meanwhile  we  had  our  annual  missionary  services, 
whicli  were  interesting,  and  the  contributions  liberal,  not- 
withstanding the  depressing  circumstances  under  which 
they  were  held.  The  "  John  Williams  "  had  on  board  our 
esteemed  friends  and  fellow-labourers  IMr  and  Mrs  Miles, 
who  had  been  to  England  on  a  visit,  and  were  returning 
to  their  work  in  Samoa,  and  reinforcements  to  our  mission, 
consisting  of  Mr  Ella  and  ]\Ir  and  Mrs  Schmidt.  The 
vessel  made  no  stay  at  Tutuila,  only  waiting  to  take  on 
board  our  party,  consisting  of  Mrs  Bullen  and  family,  Mr 
and  Mrs  Geddie  and  ourselves,  and  proceeding  at  once  to 
T'polu. 

On  Thursday  and  Friday  of  the  following  week,  the  1st 
and  2d  of  June,  tlie  members  of  tiie  mission  met  and 
made  the  needful  arrangements  for  the  new  missions.  Mr 
and  j\Irs  Powell  were  appointed  to  fill  the  vacancy  caused 
by  Mr  Bullen's  deatli.  j\Ir  Nisbet  was  also  appointed  to 
go  with  the  brethren,  and  with  Dr  Turner,  who  ^vas  tlie 
deputation,  to  visit  the  out-stations,  to  assist  in  the  selection 


254  THE  NEW  MISSION  COMMENCED. 

of  a  field  of  labour,  and  remain  for  a  time,  or  return 
with  Dr  Turner,  as  might  be  deemed  advisable.  Such 
were  the  arrangements  which  led  to  the  commencement  of 
the  Presbyterian  mission  in  the  New  Hebrides. 

Mr  Schmidt  was  appointed  to  the  station  wliich  Mr 
Powell  had  occupied  on  Savaii,  and  Mr  Ella  took  charge  of 
the  printing-press,  according  to  his  appointment  from 
England.  The  state  of  things  on  the  Leeward  Islands  of 
the  Samoan  group  was  very  critical  at  this  time.  A  war 
involving  all  these  islands  was  on  the  eve  of  breaking  out 
when  we  arrived  at  Upolu,  and  before  we  left  actual 
hostilities  had  commenced. 

We  sailed  from  Apia  for  Tutuila  on  the  19th  of  June, 
and  anchored  at  Pangopango  on  the  22d.  On  the  follow- 
ing day  the  "  John  Williams  "  left  on  her  return  to  Upolu, 
whence  she  sailed  on  the  3d  of  July  on  a  missionary 
voyage  second  in  interest  and  importance  to  none  that 
had  yet  proceeded  from  our  group.  Hitherto,  with  the 
exception  of  the  unsuccessful  effort  to  occupy  Tanna  by 
foreign  missionaries  in  1842,  we  had  sent  forth  native 
agents  only,  and  only  pioneer  work  had  been  done.  Now 
we  were  about  to  attempt,  with  something  like  an  adequate 
force,  to  follow  up  the  labours  of  our  teachers  by  the 
establishment  of  a  mission  under  the  conduct  of  men  able 
to  meet  all  the  requirements  of  the  work. 

After  a  careful  examination  of  the  different  fields  from 
which  the  choice  had  to  be  made,  Aneiteum  of  the  New 
Hebrides  was  fixed  upon  as  the  most  eligible  place  at  which 
to  commence  operations ;  and  the  event  has  proved  that  the 
choice  was  made  under  Divine  guidance. 

The  occurrences  just  narrated  left  us  once  more  in  our 
own  sphere  alone,  and  solitary  enough  we  felt  after  the 
eventful  months  that  had  just  passed.  Months  of  very 
unusual  stir  and  bustle  they  were  to  us  in  our  little  obscure 
corner  of  the  wide  world — very  pleasant  in  some  of  their 


AFFECTING  CHANGE  OF  CIRCUMSTANCES.     255 

aspects,  and  very  sad  in  others ;  and  now  they,  like  other 
times  of  mingled  joy  and  sorrow  that  had  preceded  them, 
had  passed  away,  and  all  who  had  shared  with  us  their 
pleasures  and  trials  had  gone  too.  Even  j\Irs  BuUen  liad 
remained  on  Upolu.  It  would  have  been  a  high  gratifi- 
cation to  lis  could  she  have  continued  with  us  till  the  time 
came  for  her  to  take  her  departure  for  England.  Her  cir- 
cumstances, however,  were  such  as  to  render  it  desirable 
that  she  should  be  elsewhere.  She  found  a  home  with  her 
kind  friends,  Dr  and  Mrs  Turner,  with  whom  she  resided, 
with  the  exception  of  a  short  interval,  till  she  took  farewell 
of  Samoa. 

With  the  whole  island  upon  our  hands  we  had  enougli 
to  occupy  fully  our  time  and  attention  ;  and  in  our  work, 
and  in  Him  to  whom  the  work  belongs,  we  found  support 
and  consolation.  His  providence  had  brought  us  into  the 
circumstances  in  which  we  were  placed,  and  He  would  not 
fail  us. 

Shortly  after  our  return  from  Upolu  I  paid  a  visit  to 
Leone.  Alas  !  how  altered  tlie  circumstances  compared 
with  what  they  had  so  recently  been  !  And  how  greatly 
had  the  station  been  tried !  Wliat  with  the  building  of 
chapels,  and  losing  their  missionaries,  the  people  had  been 
kept  more  or  less  unsettled  from  the  commencement  of  the 
mission.  And  they  had  a  very  heavy  work  in  hand  at  the 
time  of  ]\Ir  Bullen's  appointment  to  the  new  mission.  A 
large  stone  dwelling-house  for  the  missionary  was  in  an 
advanced  state  ;  and  now,  in  as  far  as  present  appearances 
went,  they  had  been  labouring  in  vain.  They  manifested 
a  very  becoming  spirit  under  their  trials.  My  visit  on  the 
present  occasion  was  of  an  encouraging  character,  and  I 
returned  home  cheered  by  what  I  had  seen  and  heard,  and 
every  successive  visit  confirmed  the  impression  I  now  re- 
ceived. I  gave  a  considerable  amount  of  time  and  atten- 
tion to  the  station  at  the  present  juncture,  and  was  cheered 


256  REMOVAL  TO  LEONE  PROJECTED. 

and  rewarded  by  growing  evidence  of  progress.    At  Pan- 
gopango  also  tlie  state  of  things  was  encouraging. 

In  the  month  of  August,  partly  on  our  own  account, 
and  partly  on  account  of  the  people,  we  thought  it  our 
duty  to  spend  some  time  at  Leone.  Mrs  Murray's  health 
was  still  very  delicate,  and  having  the  whole  island  under 
our  care,  it  seemed  l3ut  reasonable  that,  circumstances  per- 
mitting, we  should  reside  part  of  our  time  at  Leone.  Such 
were  our  views  and  such  was  our  plan,  when,  about  the 
middle  of  August  1848,  we  left  Pangopango,  and  took  up 
our  abode  there.  As  it  turned  out,  however,  another  course 
was  marked  out  for  us. 

The  people  of  Leone,  and  the  district  therewith  con- 
nected, were  much  pleased  with  the  movement,  and  seemed 
very  desirous  that  our  sojourn  among  them  should  be 
turned  to  the  best  account.  Schools  and  services  were 
well  attended,  and  all  went  on  encouragingly. 

On  the  2d  of  September  we  were  surprised  by  the 
arrival  of  the  "John  Williams."  She  had  accomplished 
the  objects  of  her  voyage — the  out-stations  had  been  visited, 
and  the  new  mission  commenced  under  circumstances,  on 
the  whole,  encouraging. 

In  the  meanwhile,  a  thought  had  struck  us,  involving  a 
somewhat  serious  responsibility.  Hence  we  were  glad  of 
an  opportunity  of  naming  it  to  our  brethren,  JMessrs  Turner 
and  Nisbet,  who  were  on  board  the  "  John  Williams,"  and 
having  their  advice  in  the  matter.  It  had  not  been  deemed 
necessary  for  Mr  Nisbet  to  remain  at  the  New  Hebrides, 
and  he  was  now  returning  to  his  station  in  Samoa. 

It  had  occurred  to  us  that,  as  we  were  now  alone  on  the 
island,  and  Mrs  Murray  seemed  to  have  her  health  some- 
what better  at  Leone  than  Pangopango,  we  might  as  well 
make  Leone  our  home.  The  subject  cost  us  much  anxious 
tliought,  and  many  painful  conflicts.  To  take  final  leave 
of  a  place  so  endeared  to  us  as  was  Pangopango  as  our  own 


REMOVAL  DETERMINED  UPON.  257 

station  and  home,  was  a  step  which  it  was  painful  to  con- 
template. It  was  some  alleviation  that  we  were  not  going 
to  leave  the  island,  and  that  the  station,  for  a  time  at  least, 
would  still  be  under  our  care.  It  cost  us  a  severe  struggle, 
however,  to  make  up  our  minds  to  take  the  step.  The 
views  of  our  brethren,  very  kindly  expressed,  were  to  the 
effect  that  they  did  not  doubt  that  the  step  we  were  con- 
templating would  be  cordially  approved  by  the  mission, 
should  we  decide  to  take  it.  This  cleared  the  way  so 
far,  and  about  a  month  after,  our  minds  having  in  the 
meanwhile  been  fully  made  up,  the  very  painful  duty 
of  intimating  our  decision  to  the  people  had  to  be  under- 
taken. 

On  the  28th  of  September  I  went  to  Pangopango  to 
spend  a  few  days,  and  acquaint  the  people  with  our  deci- 
sion. Never  before  was  the  journey  to  Pangopango  made 
with  so  heavy  a  heart  and  so  anxious  a  mind.  In  all 
my  former  journeys  I  had  been  going  home — going  to 
our  first  and  most  endeared  home,  where  we  had  spent 
the  early  years  of  our  missionary  life,  under  circumstances 
fitted  to  make  a  very  deep  impression  on  the  mind,  and 
take  a  very  fast  hold  of  the  heart ;  now  I  was  going  to 
take  a  step  that  would  render  that  home  no  longer  ours. 
I  hoped  yet  to  make  many  visits  to  Pangopango,  but 
never  again  should  I  approach  it  as  my  home.  Oh,  what 
a  break-up  did  it  seem !  And  it  really  was  so.  We 
have  had  many  homes  since,  and  to  some  of  these  we 
have  been  much  attached,  but  around  none  have  our 
affections  clung  with  equal  fondness  as  they  did  to  the 
first ;  nor  will  they  to  any  future  earthly  home.  Blessed 
be  God !  tliere  is  a  home  connected  with  which  there  are 
no  drawbacks,  no  regrets — an  abiding  home,  which  may 
1)6  loved  without  fear  of  excess,  and  from  which  the  afiec- 
tions  will  never  need  to  be  withdrawn. 

R 


25  8  SE  VERING  EA RL  V  BONDS. 

The  making  known  our  decision  to  the  people  was,  of 
course,  exceedingly  painful — painful  to  me  and  painful  to 
the  people.  Tlie  spirit  which  they  manifested  was  some- 
what relieving.  They  felt  much,  but  they  showed  a  very 
becoming  spirit.  The  question  of  health,  whicli  liad  led  to 
the  step,  made  them  feel  that  they  could  not  reasonably 
offer  much  objection.  They  knew  how  long  and  how 
severely  Mrs  Murray  had  suffered,  and  they  knew  that 
Leone  was  a  more  favourable  place  for  her  ;  lience  to  have 
offered  much  opposition  would  have  seemed  unkind.  And 
the  fact  that  we  were  not  going  to  leave  the  island  was  a 
great  alleviation.  This,  perhaps,  prevented  them  from 
realising  so  fully  as  we  did  what  the  step  involved.  We 
felt  that  we  no  longer  stood  to  them  in  the  same  rela- 
tion we  had  done,  and  that  a  bond  was  severed  that  in  all 
probability  would  never  be  reunited. 

Judging  from  our  experience,  I  should  think  that  no 
subsequent  sphere  of  labour  can  be  to  a  missionary  all  that 
the  first  has  been — i.e.,  of  course,  if  his  connection  with  the 
people  of  his  first  charge  has  been  hapjDy,  and  his  work 
successful.  What  spring  is  to  the  succeeding  seasons  of 
the  year,  what  youth  is  to  the  successive  stages  of  human 
life,  that  is  the  early  years  of  missionary  life  to  those 
whicli  follow.  Let  missionaries  therefore  make  much  of 
their  early  years  and  early  attachments,  and  let  them 
not  be  forward  to  desire  change  unless  plainly  called 
thereto  in  the  providence  of  God.  Such  a  call  we  con- 
ceived we  had  now,  and  nothing  afterwards  occurred  to 
lead  us  to  doubt  that  we  had  been  led  by  a  right  way. 

So  far  the  people  of  Leone  were  ignorant  of  our  inten- 
tions. We  had  no  doubt  as  to  how  they  would  feel,  and  I 
wished  the  people  of  Tangopango  to  have  the  information 
first,  and  direct  from  myself.  On  my  return  to  what  was 
now  our  home,  I  got  the  leading  people  of  the  district 


ENTERING  UPON  NEW  RELATIONS.  259 

together,  and  explained  all  to  tlieni.  Thoy  gave  a  hearty- 
response  to  our  desires  and  wishes,  and  so  we  and  they 
entered  into  a  new  and  closer  relation  than  had  hitherto 
subsisted  between  us,  and  our  interview  closed  with  the 
expression  of  earnest  desires  and  prayers  that  the  blessing 
of  God  might  largely  rest  on  our  connection. 


(26o) 


CHAPTEK  XXXIII. 

STATE   OF   THE   MISSION   AT   THE    CLOSE    OF    1848— OCCDRRENCES   AT    PANGO- 

PANGO— MISSIONARY       MEETINGS LIBERAL      CONTRIBUTIONS— PAINFUL 

DOMESTIC  TRIAL— REMARKS  THEREON— VOYAGE  AMONG  THE  OUT- 
STATIONS — STATE  AND  PROSPECTS  OF  THE  WORK — RETURN  OF  MR  AND 
MRS  POWELL  TO  SAMOA,  AND  SETTLEMENT  AT  PANGOPANGO. 

OUK  removal  to  Leone  proved  to  be  "  the  beginning  of  the 
end,"  as  regarded  our  connection  with  Tutnila.  The  object 
we  had  in  view  in  making  the  change  was  in  some  measure 
answered,  but  not  a  great  while  passed  before  we  were 
called  to  make  another  move. 

In  tlie  meanwhile,  we  went  on  with  our  accustomed 
work,  and  had  much  to  encourage  in  both  districts.  Of 
course  the  Leone  district  had  now  the  greater  share  of  our 
time  and  labours,  and  the  people  generally  seemed  earnestly 
desirous  of  turning  their  advantages  to  account.  Our  cir- 
cumstances were  such  that  they  probably  felt  that  they 
had  but  a  slender  hold  upon  us ;  and  both  they  and  our- 
selves seemed  to  feel  that  we  were  loudly  called  to  work 
while  the  opportunity  lasted.  Services,  schools,  &c.,  were 
well  attended,  and  everything  seemed  to  receive  a  fresh 
impulse. 

The  people  set  to  Avork,  soon  after  we  took  up  our 
residence  among  them,  and  completed  the  dwelling-house, 
the  building  of  which  had  been  interrupted  by  the  ap- 
pointment of  Mr  Bullcn  to  the  westward  mission  ;  and 
all,  in  as  far  as  the  people  were  concerned,  promised  fair 


ENCOURAGING  STATE  OF  THE  MISSION.     261 

for  a  lengthened  period  of  uninterrupted  prosperity.  We 
had  frequent  additions  to  the  church,  and  comparatively 
few  faikires.  Many  of  those  now  admitted  had  been 
aroused  during  tlie  great  awakenings  in  Mr  Slatyer's 
time,  and  those  which  followed  soon  after  his  departure, 
and  they  had  been  struggling  on  during  all  the  inter- 
vening years,  but  had  not,  from  some  cause  or  other,  been 
received  into  the  church.  At  Pangopango,  too,  the  state 
of  tilings  was  pleasing,  though  there  were  not  the  decided 
symptoms  of  life  and  progress  which  were  manifested  at 
this  time  at  Leone. 

Such  were  the  circumstances  under  which  the  year 
1848  closed.  It  had  been  an  eventful  year,  but  as  the 
events  that  marked  its  progress  have  been  referred  to  in 
their  proper  place,  they  need  not  further  detain  us. 

During  the  early  months  of  this  year,  1849,  all  went  on 
smoothly  and  encouragingly  at  Leone ;  but  the  people  of 
Pangopango  were  startled  by  two  occurrences  which  were 
to  them  of  much  importance.  They  lost  two  Maungas 
within  a  few  weeks  of  each  other,  under  circumstances 
well  litted  to  arrest  attention  and  lead  to  reflection. 

They  had  been  a  highly  favoured  people  for  many 
years.  A  large  measure  of  spiritual  prosperity  had  been 
granted  them,  and  no  heavy  trials  had  come  upon  them 
similar  to  what  had  fallen  upon  the  other  district,  and 
now  it  seemed  as  if  the  time  had  come  for  them  to  be 
tried  and  proved  as  their  neighbours  had  been. 

In  the  month  of  May  we  went  on  to  Pangopango  to 
remain  for  a  short  time.  We  hoped  the  change  would  be 
beneficial  to  the  health  of  our  dear  child  who  was  in 
delicate  health. 

We  had  our  annual  missionary  meetings  at  Leone 
before  leaving  to  come  on  to  Pangopango,  and  those  of 
that  district  were  held  during  our  stay  there.  The  ser- 
vices were  peculiarly  interesting  at  both  places,  and  the 


262  A  SORE  AFFLICTION. 

contributions  were  about  one-fourth  larger  than  they  liad 
ever  before  been. 

At  Leone  the  amount  of  oil  collected  was  about  1500 
gallons ;  and  at  Pangopango  about  1200 — quite  as  much 
in  proportion  to  the  number  of  people  and  their  resources 
in  cocoa-nuts  as  that  of  their  neighbours. 

The  interesting  and  encouraging  meetings  and  services 
connected  with  our  missionary  gatlierings  were  but  just 
over,  when  an  affliction  came  upon  us,  different  in 
character,  and  greatly  more  painful,  than  anytliing  that 
liad  hitherto  befallen  us.  A  few  months  after  the  de- 
})arture  for  England  of  our  then  only  child,  God  gave 
us  another  dear  one,  as  if  to  comfort  us  under  the  trial  of 
separation  from  the  one  who  was  gone.  He  had  been  a 
delicate  child  from  his  birth,  but  he  had,  as  we  thought, 
got  over  the  most  critical  period,  and  we  fondly  hoped 
that  he  would  be  spared  to  us.  He  had  a  very  strong 
hold  upon  our  affections,  and  was  loved  and  cherished 
to  a  degree  which  was  perhaps  excessive  and  perilous  to 
ourselves.  Fathers  and  mothers  will  understand  how  his 
very  delicacy  and  frailty  contributed  towards  strengthening 
the  hold  which  he  had  upon  the  hearts  of  his  parents. 

As  already  intimated,  it  was  on  his  account  that  we 
had  now  come  on  to  Pangopango  to  reside  for  a  time, 
and  the  change  appeared  to  be  answering  the  end.  He 
improved  considerably,  and  our  hopes  of  his  recoveiy 
were  sanguine.  Alas!  it  was  otherwise  determined. 
Early  on  the  morning  of  AVednesday,  May  the  24tli, 
he  was  seized  with  an  iUness  which,  in  a  few  hours, 
put  a  period  to  his  mortal  existence.  For  two  years 
and  two  months  the  precious  gift  had  been  lent  to  us, 
and  now  He  who  gave,  for  ends  wise  and  kind,  was  pleased 
to  recall  the  gift  for  reasons  no  doubt  equally  wise  and 
kind ;  but,  oh,  what  a  dreadful  blow  it  was,  and  how 
deep  was  the  wound  it  made  ! 


ALL E  VL4  TIONS.  263 

On  tlie  day  after  the  sad  event  we  returned  to  Leone, 
taking  -vvitli  us  the  remains  of  our  loved  one.  In  tlie 
afternoon  of  the  same  day  the  interment  took  place.  We 
laid  him  alongside  our  dear  brother  who  had  so  lately 
left  us,  and  there  they  and  other  dear  ones  sleep — a  pre- 
cious deposit — awaiting  the  resurrection  morn  : — 

"  Rest,  precious  dust,  lie  there  an  hour  ; 
Ere  long,  like  blossom  from  the  sod. 
Thou  shalt  come  forth  a  glorious  flower, 
Fit  for  the  eye  of  God."  * 

Our  dear  Eobert  Ehenezer  was  horn  on  the  22d  of 
March  1847,  and  died  on  the  24th  of  May  1849.  And  so 
ended  his  brief  day ;  but  he  has  not  ceased  to  be.  "  Of 
such  is  the  kingdom  of  heaven."  "  For  if  we  believe  that 
Jesus  died  and  rose  again,  even  so  them  also  who  sleep  in 
Jesus  will  God  bring  with  Him."  These  and  similar  words 
were  precious  balm  to  our  bleeding  hearts  during  those 
sad  days  when  the  wound  was  still  fresh ;  and  so  indeed 
they  continued  to  be,  but  they  were  specially  precious 
wlien  the  need  was  greatest.  It  is  a  merciful  arrangement 
of  our  gracious  Father  that  time  and  occupation  have  the 
effect  of  gradually  bringing  relief  from  the  poignancy  of 
grief,  and  inducing  a  calm,  which,  though  mingled  with 
sadness,  is  not  incompatible  with  a  degree  of  enjoyment, 
such  as  the  newly  bereaved  are  apt  to  feel  that  they 
will  never  again  taste  on  this  side  heaven.  But  I  must 
refrain. 

During  our  time  of  trial  we  had  a  large  amount  of 
sympathy  and  kindness  from  the  natives  and  our  faithful 
friend  Gibbons.  All  they  could  do  to  help  and  alleviate 
was  most  kindly  done.  Teava  and  his  wife  were  especially 
helpful  to  us.     The  latter  had  had  a  great  deal  to  do  with 

*  From  Bonar's  "  Hymns  of  Faith  and  Hope,"  slightly  altered. 


264  ANOTHER  MISSIONARY  VOYAGE. 

the  child,  and  she  mourned  for  him  as  if  he  had  been  her 
own.     In  her  case  it  was  strikingly  manifest  that, 

"  Skins  may  differ,  but  affection 
Dwells  in  white  and  black  the  same." 

It  was  a  kind  and  most  seasonable  arrangement  of 
Pro^idence,  that  towards  the  close  of  June  a  caU  reached 
us  requesting  us  to  take  a  voyage  among  our  out-stations 
in  conjunction  with  our  esteemed  brother  Mr  Hardie. 
Nothing  could  have  been  more  suited  to  our  circumstances, 
and  with  thankful  hearts  we  set  ourselves  to  prejDare  for 
the  voyage.  The  "  John  AVilliams  "  arrived  on  Saturday 
the  11th  of  August.  She  remained  with  us  over  the 
Sabbath,  and  on  the  following  day  we  sailed  for  Upolu, 
and  anchored  at  Apia  on  Tuesday  the  14th,  and  on  the 
30th  we  sailed  for  Matautu,  our  last  place  of  call  in  Samoa, 
and,  on  the  following  day,  we  again  sailed,  and  stood  away 
for  the  New  Hebrides. 

We  had  a  fine  run,  and  on  Friday  the  7th  of  September 
we  reached  the  first  place  to  which  we  were  bound — 
Aneiteum  of  the  New  Hebrides. 

Aneiteum  was  now  the  head-quarters  of  the  New 
Hebrides  mission,  and  tlie  place  of  greatest  interest  in  that 
group.  We  were  delighted  to  meet  our  dear  friends  Mr 
and  Mrs  Geddie,  and  ]\Ir  and  Mrs  Powell ;  and  we  were 
specially  thankful  to  find  that  a  little  progress  was  being 
made.  The  missionaries  and  their  families  had  suffered 
much  from  sickness  and  other  causes,  and  had  had  great 
and  formidable  difficulties  to  encounter ;  but  they  had  been 
sustained  and  brought  safely  through  all,  and  a  favourable 
impression  had  been  made  upon  the  natives,  and  their 
confidence  had  to  a  considerable  extent  been  gained. 

For  the  reason  mentioned  in  connection  with  other 
voyages,  viz.,  that  full  accounts  of  all  our  early  missionary 
voyages  have  long  been  before  the  public,  I  shall  not  say 


S/GiYS  OF  PROMISE  AMONG  OUT  STATIONS.    265 

much  witli  reference  to  the  present.  We  had  the  great 
satisfaction  to  find  a  more  encouraging  state  of  things  than 
had  been  witnessed  on  any  previous  voyage.  Viewing  the 
missions  as  a  whole,  the  tide  had  evidently  turned.  This 
was  especially  the  case  on  the  island  of  Mare.  There  a 
change  was  in  progress  of  a  very  marked  character,  and  in 
other  fields  also  there  were  signs  of  promise  which  greatly 
cheered  our  hearts. 

Mr  and  Mrs  Powell  returned  with  us  to  Samoa.  We 
reached  Apia  on  the  26th  of  October,  and  at  a  meeting  of 
the  mission  held  during  our  stay  on  Upolu  it  was  arranged 
that  they  should  occupy  the  station  at  Pangopango. 

On  the  23d  of  November  we  sailed  from  Apia,  and  on 
the  following  day  we  anchored  in  Pangopango  harbour. 
On  the  26th  Mr  and  Mrs  Powell  left  the  vessel,  and  took  up 
their  abode  in  their  new  home.  They  were  no  strangers, 
of  course,  to  tlie  people,  nor  the  people  to  them.  They  re- 
ceived a  cordial  welcome,  and  so  commenced  a  connection 
which  extended  over  a  period  of  more  than  twenty  years. 


(266) 


CHAPTEE  XXXIV. 

STATE   OF  THE  MISSION    ON   TUTUILA   ON   OCR   RETURN   FROM   OUR   VOYAGE — 
REMARKS    RELATIVE    TO    THE    PANGOPANGO    DISTRICT — TOUR    ROUND  THE 

DISTRICT — PROGRESS  AT  LEONE — SPECIAL  MEETINGS A  HURRICANE  OUT 

OF  SEASON — GREAT  DESTRUCTION  OF  HOUSES  AND  FRUIT-TREES — LAND- 
SLIP  THREE  PERSONS  KILLED — MAT  MEETINGS    AND  CONTRIBUTIONS    AT 

LEONE — SCARCITY  OF  FOOD — RESOURCKS  OF  THE  NATIVES  IN  TIMES  OF 
SCARCITY — STORY  OF  THE  CHINESE  BANANA— THE  SAMOAN  NEW  TESTA- 
MENT—REMOVAL FROM  TUTUILA  TO  MANONO  DETERMINED  UPON. 

We  had  the  happiness  to  find  all  quiet  on  Tutiiila  on 
our  return  from  our  voyage,  and  the  state  of  things 
encouraging  on  the  -whole  throughout  the  island.  The 
Pangopango  district  was  in  a  less  satisfactory  state  than 
it  had  been  two  or  three  years  before,  still  there  was  much 
to  encourage.  It  was  now  between  thirteen  and  fourteen 
years  since  we  began  our  labours,  and  about  ten  years 
had  passed  since  the  times  of  revival  commenced.  A 
number  of  those  M^ho  had  been  the  fruits  of  the  revival 
had  gone  to  heathen  lands ;  a  still  greater  number  had, 
as  we  trust,  been  gathered  into  the  fold  above,  and  some, 
no  doubt,  had  left  their  first  love,  and  fallen  into  a  luke- 
warm and  apathetic  state.  The  time  for  steady,  continuous 
j)rogress,  such  as  we  had  been  favoured  with  for  so  many 
years,  had  come  to  an  end,  and  conflict  and  trial  had 
begun  to  be  the  characteristics  of  the  stage  which  tlie 
mission  had  now  reached.  Of  course,  the  station  having 
been  without  a  resident  missionary  for  some  time  had  not 
been  favourable  to  its  advancement;   and  another  thing, 


STATE  OF  THE  PANGOPANCO  DISTRICT     267 

which  for  a  number  of  years  exerted  a  very  unfavourable 
influence,  was  the  character  of  the  man  to  whom  the  name 
of  Maunsa  was  ffiven  after  the  death  of  the  two  chiefs 
mentioned  in  the  last  chapter. 

These  remarks  will  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  the 
difficulties  vd\X\  which  Mr  Powell  had  to  contend  on 
entering  upon  his  new  sphere.  It  had  been  largely 
blessed,  and  comparatively  little  tried  in  the  past,  and 
now  its  time  of  trial  had  come. 

We  resumed  our  labours  at  Leone,  after  returning  from 
our  voyage,  under  encouraging  circumstances.  No  failures 
had  taken  j)lace  in  the  church  during  our  absence ;  there 
had  been  a  great  deal  of  sickness,  and  many  deaths. 
Twenty-six  persons  had  died,  but  at  the  time  of  our 
arrival  the  health  of  the  district  was  in  a  satisfactory 
state,  and  in  every  respect  there  was  much  to  cheer  and 
encourage. 

Towards  the  close  of  December,  Mr  Powell  and  I  made 
a  tour  of  the  Pangopango  district.  We  were  much  pleased 
with  what  we  found  in  the  different  villages.  ]\Ir  Powell 
was  everywhere  warmly  welcomed ;  much  grateful  satis- 
faction was  manifested  on  account  of  his  appointment, 
and  many  were  the  wishes  expressed  that  a  large  measure 
of  blessing  might  rest  upon  the  connection. 

During  the  early  months  of  this  year  we  were  occupied 
as  usual  with  our  accustomed  duties.  At  the  church 
meeting  at  the  close  of  February  we  had  twenty  additions 
to  our  membership,  and  few  months  passed  during  the 
remainder  of  the  time  we  occupied  the  station  without 
additions  more  or  less. 

Early  in  April  we  were  surprised  by  an  occurrence  such 
as  we  had  not  before  seen  at  that  season  of  the  year.  Be- 
fore daybreak  on  the  5th  of  that  month,  a  fresh  breeze 
began  to  blow,  and  continued  to  increase  till  it  ended  in  a 
llea^^  gale,  which  lasted  a  whole  day,  and  did  a  great 


268  SERIOUS  CALAMITIES. 

amount  of  damage  througliout  the  island.  Large  numbers 
of  cocoa-nut  and  bread-fruit  trees,  and  many  houses,  were 
destroyed.  Our  house,  being  new  and  substantial,  sustained 
little  damage,  but  Mr  and  Mrs  Powell  had  to  abandon 
theirs,  and  seek  shelter  elsewhere.  The  most  serious  thing 
for  us  and  the  people  of  Leone  was  that  the  chapel,  on 
which  they  had  expended  so  much  labour  and  property 
only  a  few  years  before,  was  injured  to  such  an  extent  that 
it  could  not  again  be  occupied  till  it  was  rebuilt.  A  great 
mistake  had  been  made.  The  walls  were  of  lath  and 
plaster,  instead  of  stone  and  lime.  But  for  that,  the  house 
would  in  all  probability  have  stood  through  any  storm,  and 
the  ultimate  saving  would  have  been  great.  We  were 
much  inconvenienced  during  all  the  remaining  time  we 
occupied  the  station.  The  largest  houses  in  the  village 
were  at  our  service,  but  it  required  three  of  these  to  hold 
the  congregation,  so  we  were  obliged  to  have  three  separate 
services  every  Sabbath,  two  for  adults,  and  one  for  chil- 
dren. 

Eougli  weather  continued  for  some  days,  and  led  to  an 
occurrence  in  the  Pangopango  district  which  was  attended 
with  more  serious  consequences  than  the  gale.  A  land-slip 
from  a  mountain,  near  Avhose  base  a  family  dwelt,  buried 
three  persons,  a  young  man,  a  woman,  and  a  child,  entirely 
obliterating  all  trace  of  their  little  hamlet.  I  visited  the  fatal 
spot  soon  after  the  occurrence.  The  detached  mass  must 
have  been  immense,  and  must  have  been  precipitated  down 
the  side  of  the  mountain  with  tremendous  force.  Its  track 
was  as  smooth  as  a  pavement.  Great  trees,  the  growth  of 
ages,  which  had  stood  in  its  way,  had  been  torn  up  by  the 
roots,  and,  with  immense  blocks  of  stone,  had  been  hurled 
to  a  surprising  distance  after  reaching  the  level  ground. 
No  wonder  that  the  poor  Samoan  house  and  its  unfortunate 
inmates  were  swallowed  up  in  the  awful  manner  they 
were. 


PERPLEXING  CIRCUMSTANCES.  269 

Our  missionary  meetings  at  Leone  this  year  were  held 
towards  the  end  of  May.  They  were  of  a  very  interesting 
and  promising  character.  The  contributions  were  fully  as 
liberal,  considering  the  circumstances,  as  those  of  the  pre- 
ceding year.  Not  only  had  there  been  great  destruction 
among  the  cocoa-nuts,  but  a  considerable  quantity  of  oil 
had  been  lost ;  still  no  symptoms  of  discouragement,  or  of 
a  disposition  to  murmur,  appeared  among  the  people. 

Thus  were  we  being  cheered  and  encouraged  with  re- 
ference to  the  state  of  the  work.  Our  hopes  were  being 
raised,  and  our  desires  quickened,  and  it  looked  as  if  we 
might  ere  long  be  favoured  with  times  of  special  prosperity, 
such  as  we  had  enjoyed  in  former  years ;  but  changes  were 
at  hand.  Mrs  Murray's  health,  which  had  been  somewhat 
improved  during  our  recent  voyage,  had  again  given  way^ 
and  we  began  to  feel  that  we  must  entertain  the  question 
of  leaving  Tutuila,  and  seeking  a  change  of  climate.  The 
question  with  us  was,  whether  we  should  go  to  Australia 
or  England.  We  sought  advice  from  our  brethren.  From 
them,  as  on  former  occasions,  we  received  the  kindest  sym- 
pathy. They  were  ready  to  sanction  any  step  that  we 
might  think  it  our  duty  to  take,  but  they  strongly  recom- 
mended that,  before  deciding  to  go  to  Australia  or  England, 
we  should  try  the  effect  of  a  change  to  another  island  of 
the  Samoan  group.  It  became,  therefore,  a  subject  of 
anxious  deliberation  with  us  what  course  we  should  adopt. 
We  were  both  exceedingly  reluctant  to  leave  the  mission 
field,  so  that  a  proposal  which  held  out  even  a  faint  hope 
of  our  being  able  to  remain  was  readily  entertained,  and 
anxiously  considered.  The  question  was  not  settled  till 
the  close  of  October,  Hence  we  had  ample  time  for  con- 
sideration. 

But  to  return  to  what  was  taking  place  in  the  meanwhile 
at  Leone,  and  to  the  state  and  prospects  of  the  mission 
during  these  last  months  of  our  labours  there.     The  storm 


270  RESOURCES  IN  TIMES  OF  SCARCITY. 

was  followed  by  a  great  scarcity  of  food.  In  Samoa,  as 
elsewhere,  calamities  seldom  come  alone.  A  severe  storm 
makes  great  havoc  among  the  cocoa-nuts  and  bread-fruit 
and  bananas  in  all  places  exposed  to  its  ravages.  The  taro 
plantations,  on  which  article  the  Samoans  depend  at  least 
as  much  as  upon  the  bread-fruit,  are  not  of  a  character  to 
be  much  injured  by  the  hurricanes  ;  but,  almost  invariably, 
after  one  of  these  comes  a  caterpillar,  which  eats  up  the 
leaves  of  the  taro,  and  this  renders  the  root  almost,  if  not 
quite,  unfit  for  food  ;  hence  famine  follows  in  the  wake  of 
the  storm,  and  famine  is  apt  to  affect  health,  so  the  cala- 
mity becomes  threefold. 

There  is  a  remarkable  provision  in  the  Samoan,  and  I 
suppose  other  groups  of  islands  also,  which  is  of  great 
value  to  the  people  in  times  of  scarcity.  A  yam  is  found 
in  the  bush  which  grows  without  cultivation,  and  which, 
I  think,  is  never  quite  exhausted.  It  is  much  inferior  to 
the  cultivated  yam,  and  is  not  to  be  compared  with  taro, 
and  it  has  to  be  dug  from  a  depth  of  four,  five,  or  more 
feet,  and  generally  it  has  to  be  carried  from  a  considerable 
distance ;  still,  it  can  be  got,  and,  with  what  bananas  and 
cocoa-nuts  may  have  escaped  the  storm,  it  enables  the 
people  to  struggle  along  till  times  of  plenty  return.  I 
have  mentioned  bananas,  but  the  bananas  indigenous  to 
the  islands  have  a  poor  chance  when  a  hurricane  sweeps 
over  the'^n.  There  is  one  kind,  however,  the  Chinese  {Musa 
CavendisMi),  which  now  grows  abundantly  throughout  the 
South  Seas,  which  is  valuable  at  all  times,  and  especially 
so  when  ordinary  resources  fail,  connected  wdth  which 
there  is  a  tale  worth  preserving.  When  Mr  Williams 
reached  Samoa  in  the  "  Camden "  in  1838,  he  brought 
with  him  a  number  of  plants,  which  had  been  furnished 
by  the  Duke  of  Devonshire,  with  a  view  to  their  being 
introduced  to  the  islands  of  Polynesia.  Among  these 
was  a  root  of  the  Chinese  banana.     It  appeared  to  Mr 


STORY  OF  THE  CHINESE  BANANA.  271 

Williams  to  have  lost  its  vitality,  and  so  satisfied  was  he 
of  this  that  he  threw  it  away.  It  caught  the  eye  of  Mi- 
Mills,  who  was  the  missionary  at  Apia  at  the  time,  and  it 
struck  him  that  it  miglit  possibly  grow.  At  all  events, 
there  would  be  nothing  lost  by  giving  it  a  trial.  A  trial 
was  made,  and  the  result  was  that  it  did  grow,  and  from 
that  apparently  dead  root,  every  group,  and  every  in- 
habited island  of  any  considerable  extent  south  of  the 
equator,  has  been  furnished  with  the  Chinese  banana,  ami 
its  value  to  the  natives  is  beyond  all  computation.  It  is 
low,  and  embeds  itself  more  deeply  in  the  soil  than  the 
native  bananas,  and  so  it  escapes,  and  lives  through  the 
ravages  of  storms  which  destroy  these.  It  grows  with  or 
without  culture,  but  it  amply  repays  the  attention  which 
it  receives.  I  have  seen  bunches  from  plants  that  have 
been  tended  and  cared  for,  so  large  as  to  require  two  men 
to  carry  them  conveniently.  And  another  of  its  superior 
qualities  is  that  it  bears  in  a  much  shorter  time  than  the 
island  bananas. 

Our  teachers  have  taken  the  plant,  wdiose  value  is  now 
so  well  known,  wherever  they  have  gone,  and  by  their 
means,  and  that  of  other  parties,  the  said  banana  is  now 
found  throughout  the  wide  Pacific  from  Tahiti — I  daresay 
I  might  include  the  Marquesas — to  the  islands  of  Torres 
Straits  and  the  mainland  of  ISTew  Guinea. 

There  w^as  a  considerable  amount  of  suffering  thruuo'hout 
Tutuila  at  the  time  of  which  I  now  write.  It  did  not, 
however,  appear  to  exert  an  unfavourable  influence.  I 
w^as  often  surprised  at  Leone  to  see  how  the  attendance 
at  services,  schools,  and  classes  kept  up,  not  only  in  the 
case  of  those  who  lived  in  the  neighbourhood,  but  also  of 
the  people  belonging  to  places  at  a  distance.  During  the 
months  of  June,  July,  August,  and  onward,  there  were 
growing  indications  of  prosperity.  As  our  personal  pro- 
spects became  clouded,  and  our  domestic  aitlictiou  deep- 


272  THE  SAMOAN  NEW  TESTAMENT. 

ened,  the  prospects  of  the  mission  brightened,  and  so  it 
continued  very  much  during  the  remaining  months  of  our 
residence  on  Tutuila. 

In  the  month  of  July  an  event  of  great  interest  and 
importance  occurred.  A  vessel  arrived  bringing  the  first 
instalment  of  an  edition  of  the  Samoan  New  Testament, 
which  had  been  printed  for  us  in  England  by  tlie  British 
and  Foreign  Bible  Society.  Most  of  the  members  of  the 
mission  had  had  a  share  in  the  translation  and  revision  of 
the  different  books.  These  had  been  revised  and  printed 
separately  at  the  mission  press  in  Samoa,  and,  after  a 
second  revision,  they  had  been  sent  to  England,  and  an 
edition  of  the  New  Testament  complete,  of  15,000,  had 
been  printed  under  the  superintendence  of  the  Eev.  J.  B. 
Stair,  who  had  been  connected  with  our  mission  for  several 
years,  and  had  recently  retired  on  account  of  Mrs  Stair's 
health. 

The  arrival  of  the  whole  New  Testament,  in  one  neatly 
bound  volume,  was  quite  an  event  in  our  mission's  history, 
and  awakened  a  deep  interest  throughout  the  group.  The 
volume  was  sold  at  2s.  6d.  per  copy.  It  met  with  a  ready 
sale,  and  in  a  few  years  the  entire  sum — £1300  odd  (thir- 
teen hundred  pounds) — at  which  the  edition  was  invoiced 
to  us  was  paid,  and  a  balance  was  left  to  meet  incidental 
expenses. 

Towards  the  close  of  October,  a  definite  proposal  was 
made  to  us  to  remove  to  the  island  of  Manono,  and  take 
charge  of  that  and  the  station  connected  with  it.  This 
brought  matters  to  a  point,  and  rendered  a  speedy  decision 
necessary.  We  decided  in  favour  of  remaining  in  Samoa. 
"We  would  give  Manono  a  trial,  and  should  we  after  that 
be  obliged  to  seek  a  change  elsewhere,  we  should  have  the 
satisfaction  of  feeling  that  we  had  done  all  of  which  the 
circumstances  admitted  to  remain  in  the  mission  field. 

So  the  thing  was  now  settled.     We  had  made  up  our 


DECISION  TO  REMOVE  FROM  TUTUILA.       273 

niiiids  to  bid  adieu  to  Tutuila,  ■which  had  been  our  home 
S(j  long,  and  which  was  endeared  to  us  by  so  many  hallowed 
and  tender  associations.  The  trials  and  suiferings  through 
which  we  had  passed,  instead  of  alienating  our  affections 
from  the  island  and  the  people,  seemed  rather  to  endear 
tliem  the  more.  And  it  was  our  first  field — our  first  love 
— and  notwithstanding  the  numerous  drawbacks,  we  liad 
enjoyed  a  large  measure  of  happiness.     Our  feelings  were 


rr'-'-iiiS^ 


^Ajsef!»^'^ 


THE  CHURCH    AT   LEOXE  IN  IsTJ. 


similar  to  those  we  had  on  leaving  Pangopango ;  we  felt 
that  though  we  might  become  attached  to  other  places,  and 
love  those  among  whom  our  lot  might  be  cast  in  the  future, 
we  should  never  feel  exactly  towards  any  place  and  people 
as  we  did  towards  Tutuila.  And  so  it  has  proved.  There  we 
spent  the  spring  and  early  smnmer  of  our  missionary  life, 
and  these  can  be  enjoyed  but  once. 


274  FOLLOWING  THE  MASTER'S  CALL. 

We  felt,  however,  that  necessity  was  laid  upon  iis  to 
strike  our  tent.  The  indications  that  our  work  on  Tutuila 
was  done  were  plain  ;  the  Master  was  calling  us  elsewhere, 
and  we  were  made  willing  to  "  arise  and  depart,"  following, 
as  we  believed,  the  guidance  of  His  hand. 


(275) 


CHAPTEE  XXXV. 

LAST  DATS  ON  TCTDILA — VISITS  TO  PANGOPANGO — LAST  SABBATH  AT  LEONE — 
DEPARTURE  FOR  UPOLU — RETURN  WITH  MR  AND  MBS  SUNDERLAND  TO 
TUTUILA —  RECEPTION  AT  MANONO — DESCRIPTION  OF  MANONO — ITS  PAST 
HISTORY  AND  PRESENT  POSITION — STATE  OF  THE  MISSION— THE  WAR — 
FIRST  PROCEEDINGS  AND  LABOURS — NOTICE  OF  MAMOE — SUSPENSION  OF 
THE  WAR — VISIT  TO  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF  APOLIMA — REVISION  WORK — 
RENEWED  PREPARATIONS  FOR  WAR — GLOOMY  CLOSE  OF  1851. 

iT^only  remains  to  give  tlie  reader  a  few  parting  glimpses 
of  our  connection  with  the  little  island  that  has  occupied 
our  attention  so  long.  Considering  its  limited  extent,  and 
comparatively  small  population,  it  may  be  thought  that  we 
have  had  a  great  deal  to  say  about  it,  and  our  doings  and 
experiences  upon  it.  That  thought,  however,  will  perhaps 
be  sufficiently  met  by  its  being  borne  in  mind,  that  what 
had  been  done  and  suffered  by  ourselves  and  others  during 
the  years  that  have  passed  under  review  had  in  this,  as  in 
all  similar  cases,  relations  and  issues  which  cannot  be 
measured  by  the  extent  of  territory  on  which  they  tran- 
spire, nor  the  number  of  those  immediately  interested  and 
affected — relations  and  issues  inseparably  connected  with, 
and  related  to  the  evangelisation  of  the  world,  and  the 
boundless  future  here  and  beyond,  with  wliich  all  our  doings 
and  sufferings  are  indissolubly  linked.  To  allude  to  a  com- 
mon illustration — How  many  pebbles  had  been  cast  upon  the 
surface  of  the  lake  during  these  fifteen  years,  and  who  can 
calculate  the  number  and  extent  of  the  ever- widening 
circles  ? 


2;6  LAST  VISITS  TO  PANGOPANGO. 

"  The  useful,  not  the  great, 
The  thing  that  never  dies, 
The  silent  toil  that  is  not  lost  ; — 
Set  these  before  thine  eyes. 
The  seed  whose  leaf  and  flower, 
Though  poor  in  human  sight, 
Bring  forth  at  last  the  eternal  fruit, 
Sow  thou,  both  day  and  night." 

We  made  up  our  minds  to  remove  to  the  Leeward 
Islands  about  the  close  of  October,  and  about  the  same 
time  Mr  and  Mrs  Powell  left  Tutuila  on  a  visit  to  Manua. 
They  did  not  return  till  after  we  had  left,  so  we  were  alone 
on  Tutuila  during  the  last  two  months  of  our  residence 
on  the  island.  These  two  months  were  spent  in  earnest 
efforts  among  the  teachers  and  people,  with  a  view  to 
promote  their  steadfastness  and  prepare  them  for  the 
changes  that  were  at  hand.  Transferring  stations  from 
one  labourer  to  another  in  the  early  stages  of  a  mission 
is  generally  attended  with  difficidty  greater  or  less,  and 
sometimes  with  danger.  The  people  are  apt  to  form  an 
extravagant  estimate  of  their  first  missionary — to  regard 
everything  he  does  and  teaches  as  the  standard  of  perfec- 
tion, and  to  judge  of  his  successor  according  as  he  conforms 
or  otherwise  to  what  they  regard  as  the  perfect  model. 
Hence  the  difficulty  of  his  position ;  and  hence  the  im- 
portance of  endeavouring  to  get  the  people  to  look  beneath 
the  surface,  and  make  allowance  for  differences  in  minor 
matters. 

I  made  two  visits  to  Pangopango  during  these  last  days 
on  Tutuila,  one  about  the  middle  of  November,  the  other 
early  in  December,  going  on  Friday  and  returning  home 
on  Monday  each  time.  I  will  not  enter  into  particidars 
respecting  these  visits.  I  was  cheered,  on  the  whole,  by 
wliat  I  saw  and  heard,  aud  parted  from  the  people  hopeful 
with  reference  to  their  future. 


FINAL  DEPARTURE  FROM  TUTUILA.  -77 

Nothing  calling  for  particular  notice  occurred  at  Leone 
during  the  remainder  of  our  stay  there.  At  the  com- 
mencement of  tlie  year,  an  opportunity  to  get  to  Upolu 
offered,  which  we  thought  it  right  to  embrace.  January 
the  5tli,  1857,  was  our  last  Sabbath  on  Tutuila.  I  preached 
in  the  morning  from  1  John  v.  11,  and  in  the  afternoon 
from  2  Chron.  xx.  20 ;  and  on  the  following  morning  we 
sailed  for  Upolu,  and  the  next  morning,  Tuesday  the  7th, 
we  were  landed  at  Saluafata,  where  our  kind  friends  Mr 
and  Mrs  Drummond  were  at  that  time  stationed. 

During  the  following  week  a  general  meeting  of  the 
members  of  the  mission  was  held,  at  which  it  was  defi- 
nitely arranged  that  Mr  and  Mrs  Sunderland  and  ourselves 
should  exchange  stations.  Pursuant  to  this  arrangement 
a'  small  vessel  was  chartered,  and  on  Thursday,  January 
the  30th,  we,  Mr  and  Mrs  Sunderland  and  myself,  sailed 
for  Tutuila.  We  did  not  reach  our  destination  till  the 
afternoon  of  Sabbath.  On  Monday  and  Tuesday  every- 
thing connected  with  landing  and  shipping  goods  was 
finished,  and  on  Wednesday  a  farewell  service  was  held 
with  the  people,  and  a  farewell  conference  with  the 
teachers,  all  of  whom  assembled  from  both  districts. 
These  engagements  over,  I  was  ready  to  depart.  Our 
official  connection  with  Tutuila  was  at  an  end,  and  new 
scenes  and  connections  w^ere  before  us. 

We  sailed  from  Tutuila  in  the  evening,  and  the  fol- 
lowing day,  Thursday,  the  6th  of  February,  we  reached 
Apia.  Mrs  Murray  had  come  from  Saluafata,  and  was 
waiting  my  arrival ;  and  on  the  following  morning  we 
sailed  for  Manono,  which  we  reached  on  Saturday  morning, 
February  the  8th. 

Manono  had  been  without  a  resident  missionary  smce 
the  death  of  Mr  Heath  in  May  1848.  Mr  Sunderland, 
in  whose  district  it  was  included,  had  resided  on  the  ad- 
jacent coast  of  Upolu.     At  the  time  of  our  removal  to  the 


278  DESCRIPTION  OF  MANONO. 

island,  the  long  war,  in  which  it  was  deeply  involved,  was 
in  progress.  Hence  we  found  things  in  a  very  rough  state. 
The  few  people  who  stood  aloof  from  the  war  had  put  up 
temporary  houses  on  the  mission  premises,  and  formed  a 
little  settlement  in  which  they  lived  together,  and  they 
had  thrown  up  a  rough  stone  wall  around  the  mission- 
house,  that  it  might  form  a  sort  of  fortress  in  case  of  a 
fight  taking  place  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  wall  in 
front  was  close  to  the  doors  and  wmdows,  darkening  and 
almost  blocking  up  tlie  house,  and  giving  the  place  about 
as  dismal  and  repulsive  an  appearance  as  can  well  be 
imagined.  However,  before  proceeding  further,  it  may 
be  well  to  give  the  reader  a  little  information  about  the 
island  which  for  the  present  was  to  be  our  home.  Manono 
is  a  pretty  little  spot.  It  is  circular  in  shape,  and  rises  in 
the  centre  to  an  elevation  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  or  two 
hundred  feet,  and  slopes  gradually  down  to  the  sea.  It 
does  not  much  exceed  three  miles  in  circumference.  It  is 
covered  with  bread-fruit  and  cocoa-nuts,  bananas,  and  trees 
and  plants  of  smaller  dimensions.  The  bread-fruit  so  largely 
predominates  as  to  give  it  at  a  distance  almost  the  appearance 
of  a  bread-fruit  grove.  Taro,  except  to  a  very  limited 
extent,  cannot  be  raised  upon  the  island,  but  it  is  famed 
for  the  production  of  yams,  superior  to  any  that  are  found 
in  other  parts  of  the  group.  The  greatest  privation  to  a 
family  residing  on  the  island  is  the  want  of  good  water. 
A  drink  of  good  water  cannot  be  obtained  on  Manono. 
There  is  an  abundant  supply  of  cocoa-nuts,  however,  and 
one  soon  gets  reconciled  to  the  substitute  which  they 
furnish. 

The  island  lies  about  four  miles  to  the  west  of  Ui^olu, 
and  is  enclosed  in  the  same  reef  with  that  island.  About 
five  or  six  miles  distant  lies  the  small  island  of  Apolima, 
and  beyond  tliat,  at  the  distance  of  from  ten  to  fifteen 
miles,  is  Savaii,  the  largest  island  of  the  group.      Thus 


POLITICAL  STANDING.  279 

Manoiio  is  placed  in  the  l)osoui  of  the  Leeward  Islands, 
and  this — its  central  situation — and  especially  its  proxi- 
mity to  Apolima,  and  interest  in  that  island,  may  account 
in  some  measure  for  the  influential  position  to  which  it  had 
attained  in  the  group,  and  which  it  had  maintained  for 
many  generations.  When  the  gospel  was  introduced  to 
Samoa,  there  was  no  place  on  the  Leeward  Islands  equal  to 
it  in  political  influence  and  importance.  At  the  time  we 
took  up  our  abode  upon  it,  it  had  lost  much  of  its  ancient 
2irestige,  though  it  was  still  an  important  place.  Had  its 
rulers  adapted  themselves  to  the  new  order  of  things 
which  Christianity  introduced,  instead  of  attempting  to 
carry  matters  with  a  high  hand,  they  might  have  continued 
to  maintain  an  honourable  and  influential  place  ;  whereas, 
by  adopting  a  policy  similar  to  what  they  had  pursued  in 
the  days  of  heathenism,  they  had  involved  the  islands  in 
the  war  that  was  now  in  progress,  and,  to  a  great  extent, 
lost  their  own  standing  and  influence.  To  them  it  had 
happened,  as  sooner  or  later  it  always  will  happen  to  those 
who  adopt  the  course  which  they  adopted,  "  He  that 
exalteth  himself  shall  be  abased." 

At  the  time  of  which  we  now  write,  the  number  of 
people  properly  belonging  to  the  island  was  about  one 
thousand — but  there  were  settlements  on  the  larger 
islands  which  were  considered  as  belonging  to  it,  and 
almost  the  whole  of  the  large  island  of  Savaii  and  it  were 
in  close  political  alliance.  And  at  the  time  to  which  we 
now  refer,  and  for  many  years  after,  it  could  still  wield  a 
powerful  influence,  as  has  been  proved  of  late  years  both 
to  its  own  cost  and  that  of  others.  After  the  cessation 
of  the  war  which  was  now  in  progress,  and  an  interval  of 
jjeace  stretching  over  many  years,  it  again  stirred  up  strife, 
which  led  to  a  general  war  throughout  the  Leeward  Islands, 
and  now  its  influence  is  almost  entirely  gone. 

But  to  return:  We  found  on  our  arrival  a  number  of 


28o  STATE  OF  THE  MISSION. 

the  leading  people  at  home,  and  by  these  we  were  very 
cordially  welcomed.  On  the  day  after  our  arrival,  which 
was  the  Sabbath,  I  went  round  the  island,  and  preached 
at  the  three  villages  at  which  the  people  were  accustomed 
to  have  their  services ;  and  on  Monday  I  had  an  interview 
with  the  leading  chiefs  with  reference  to  the  war,  and 
begged  them  to  use  their  influence  to  get  it  brought  to  a 
close.  This  they  intimated  their  willingness  to  do,  but 
they  expressed  their  conviction  that  things  had  gone  too 
far  to  admit  of  a  settlement  without  further  fighting ;  and 
stated  that  on  the  following  day  they  were  going  to  start 
for  the  fort  as  an  attack  was  considered  imminent. 

The  war,  of  course,  had  brought  everything  to  a  stand 
as  regards  missionary  work.  The  church  was  broken  up  ; 
the  bulk  of  the  people,  old  and  young,  were  continually 
on  the  move  going  to  and  from  the  seat  of  the  war ;  some 
were  in  exile,  and  those  that  remained  were  in  an  excited 
and  unsettled  state,  as  an  attack  might  be  made  upon  the 
island  any  day  or  hour,  and  those  belonging  to  it  be  treated 
as  in  former  times  they  had  been  accustomed  to  treat 
others. 

A  few  church  members  remained  on  the  island  who 
had  stood  aloof  from  the  war ;  and  they,  with  the  teachers, 
three  in  number,  kept  close  to  us,  and  formed  a  little 
select  community.  The  most  remarkable  man  among 
these  was  Mmnoe,  who  will  be  remembered,  it  may  be, 
by  some  of  our  readers  as  having  been  in  England  many 
years  ago,  and  having  excited  considerable  interest  in 
many  parts.  He  and  his  wife  accompanied  Mr  and  Mrs 
Mills  when  they  visited  England  in  1846,  and  returned 
with  them  to  their  native  land  in  1848.  An  excellent 
portrait  of  Mamoe  may  be  seen  in  Dr  Turner's  "  Nineteen 
Years  in  Polynesia."  He  was  a  shrewd,  sensible  man, 
and  a  faithful,  attached  friend  and  helper  to  us.  He 
belonged  to  one  of  the  most  influential  families  on  Manono, 


THE  NATIVE  TEACHER  MAMOE.  2.S1 

that  of  which  Matctau,  mentioned  in  Mr  "Williams' 
"Missionary  Enterprises,"  was  the  head.  From  an  early 
period  of  our  mission's  history  till  his  death  he  acted 
as  a  teacher,  and  laboured  zealously  and  usefully  for 
the  good  of  his  countrymen.  He  was  subject  to  fits, 
occasioned,  it  was  supposed,  by  an  injury  which  he  had 
received  in  his  head  in  the  days  of  darkness,  and  this 
led  to  his  life  being  brought  to  a  mournful  close.  He 
went  out  to  sea  alone  in  a  small  canoe  to  fish,  and 
was  not  again  heard  of  It  was  supposed  that  he  had 
been  seized  with  a  fit,  and  had  fallen  into  the  sea  and  been 
dro^vned. 

It  is  sad  to  think  of  Mamoe  as  terminating  his  life  in 
the  manner  he  did.  It  really  matters  little,  however,  how 
the  Christian  dies.  The  circumstances  and  manner  of 
his  death,  of  course,  aftect  not  in  any  degree  the  glory 
which  awaits  him  in  the  blessed  beyond : 

"  Who  dies  in  Christ  the  Lord,  dies  well, 

Though  on  the  lonely  main  ; 
As  soft  the  pillow  of  the  deep, 
As  tranquil  the  uncurtained  sleep, 
As  on  the  couch  where  fond  ones  weep  ; 

And  they  shall  rise  again."* 

Though  so  many  of  the  people  of  the  island  were  gene- 
rally absent  at  the  war-camp,  we  had  often  large  numbers 
with  us  for  longer  or  shorter  terms.  The  island  was  the 
head-quarters  of  one  of  the  war  parties,  and  it  lies  right  in 
the  way  between  Savaii  and  the  seat  of  the  war  on  Upolu. 
Hence  it  was  often  crowded  with  warriors  passing  to  and  fro, 
and  to  such  I  had  frequent  opportunities  of  preaching  the 
gospel.  Those  who  happened  to  be  with  us  on  the  Sab- 
bath would  generally,  wdth  few  exceptions,  e^ttend  at  least 
one  seiAace;    and  some,  who  had  been  dragged  into  the 

*  Bonar,  "  Hymns  of  Faith  and  Hope,"  second  series,  p.  C4. 


282  IVOR/C  ON  MANONO. 

war  by  circumstances,  would  embrace  every  opportunity 
that  offered. 

I  was  accustomed  to  preach  at  each  of  the  three  ^dl- 
lages  on  the  Sabbath,  and  to  give  an  evening  to  each  during 
the  week ;  so  few  could  call  at  the  island,  and  remain  for 
two  or  three  days,  without  my  coming  in  contact  with 
them. 

Soon  after  our  settlement  on  the  island  schools  were 
resumed,  both  on  week-days  and  Sabbaths,  for  the  benefit 
of  those  who  stood  aloof  from  the  war,  and  any  comers  and 
goers  who  chose  to  attend. 

On  the  first  Sabbath  in  March,  in  the  midst  of  rumours 
of  war,  we  observed  the  ordinance  of  the  Lord's  Supper 
with  the  little  remnant  of  Church  members  who  had  kept 
out  of  the  war — i.e.,  with  those  of  them  who  remained  on 
the  island,  for  some  had  gone  elsewhere.  The  exact  num- 
ber of  Church  members  I  could  not  ascertain,  as  no  church 
book  was  forthcoming,  and  the  members  were  scattered 
hither  and  thither,  and  no  one  was  able  to  furnish  correct 
information.  Three  candidates  for  Church  membership 
remained. 

At  this  time  skirmishes  were  of  almost  daily  occurrence 
between  the  different  war  parties,  and  ones  and  twos  were 
being  killed  or  wounded,  and  reports  were  incessantly 
reaching  us  as  to  the  sad  things  that  were  taking  place, 
and  that  were  likely  to  take  place,  generally  much  exag- 
gerated, and  sometimes  entirely  false.  We  knew  little  at 
this  time  of  the  dilatory  manner  in  which  the  Samoans 
were  accustomed  to  carry  on  their  wars ;  hence  we  were 
in  daily  expectation  of  hearing  that  a  decisive  engagement 
had  taken  place.  Day  after  day  and  week  after  week 
passed,  however,  and  reports  kept  pouring  in  upon  us  of 
dreadful  things  occurring  and  impending,  yet  nothing  de- 
cisive was  done. 

Early  one  morning  we  were  startled  by  an  announcement 


STARTLING  ANNOUNCEMENT.  283 

that  the  enemy  had  actually  arrived,  and  as  it  was  fully 
expected  that  when  they  did  make  an  attack,  Mauono,  as 
having  stirred  up  the  mischief,  and  having  been  little 
accustomed  to  show  mercy  to  others  in  bygone  days,  would 
not  find  much  mercy  now,  the  intelligence  was  anything 
but  agreeable.  The  report  abroad  was  that  Manono  was 
to  be  made  a  desolation — the  disturber  of  the  peace  in 
Samoa  was  to  be  rendered  powerless  for  all  time  to  come. 
I  hastened  to  the  spot  where  the  hostile  party  were  said 
to  have  landed,  and  was  relieved  by  finding  that  the  report 
was  incorrect.  Intense  excitement,  however,  was  occa- 
sioned throughout  the  island.  Those  belonging  to  the 
war  jDarty  who  remained  at  home — old  people  and  women 
and  children — were  cleared  off  with  all  possible  speed,  and 
taken  to  places  where  they  would  be  likely  to  be  safe  in 
case  of  an  attack,  and  the  alarm  and  excitement  were 
about  as  great  as  they  could  well  be.  The  thing  reported 
was  so  probable,  and  it  was  just  what  had  been  expected 
and  dreaded ;  hence  it  met  at  once  with  full  credence  from 
almost  every  one,  and  few  seemed  to  pause  and  inq^^i^e 
into  its  truth. 

Just  as  we  were  expecting  matters  to  come  to  a  crisis — 
when  a  conflict  more  serious  than  anything  that  had  yet 
occurred  seemed  inevitable — we  were  surprised  and  de- 
lighted by  a  report  which  seemed  credible  that  there  was  a 
fair  prospect  of  the  matters  in  dispute  being  adjusted  with- 
out further  bloodshed.  Both  parties  appeared  tu^ed  of  the 
miserable  strife,  and  disposed  to  listen  to  proposals  of 
peace.  Such  proposals  were  made,  and  so  far  entertained, 
that  there  was  a  lull  which  lasted  for  some  months,  and 
was  a  great  relief  from  the  constant  strain  that  had  been 
upon  us  from  the  tune  of  our  settling  upon  the  island. 

Appearances  were  so  promising  at  this  time,  that  many 
of  the  people  seemed  to  entertain  strong  hopes  that  the 
war  was  really  at  an  end.     To  such  an  extent  was  this  the 


284  EFFECTS  OF  THE  WAR. 

case,  that  numbers  returned  to  their  lands,  and  to  the  spots 
where  their  homes  had  once  been ;  for  of  these  there  were, 
in  many  cases,  only  the  charred  remains.  Places  wdiere 
flourishing  and  smiling  villages  once  stood  were  now 
scenes  of  desolation  and  rum,  and  but  for  the  remains  of 
human  dwellings,  and  in  some  cases  a  deserted  chapel  that 
was  fast  going  to  ruin,  and  perhaps  the  rude  monuments 
that  marked  the  resting-places  of  the  dead — but  for  such 
objects  as  these  their  sites  would  not  have  been  distinguish- 
able from  the  surrounding  bush.  Such  was  the  havoc 
which  the  horrid  war  had  made ;  and  alas !  the  effects 
which  it  had  left  upon  material  things  were  but  too 
correctly  emblematic  of  the  moral  and  spiritual  desolation  it 
had  wrought.  The  reader  will  readily  understand  how  all 
the  better-disposed  among  the  people,  in  common  with 
ourselves,  hailed  the  s}Tiiptoms  that  now  appeared,  that 
an  era  of  peace  had  at  length  opened  upon  us. 

Connected  with  the  Manono  district  is  Apolima,  already 
mentioned.  It  is  a  very  remarkable  little  spot.  It  is 
evidently  the  crat&r  of  an  extinct  volcano,*  Perpendicular 
cliffs  rise  abruptly  out  of  the  sea,  and  completely  surround 
it,  except  at  a  single  point  on  the  north-west  side.  Here 
there  is  a  small  break  in  the  crater,  which  admits  the  waters 
of  the  ocean,  and  forms  a  small  bay,  where  a  boat  can  lie 
safely  when  once  it  is  inside,  but  the  entrance  is  exceed- 
ingly narrow  and  diflicidt — often  unapproachable.  The 
basin  of  the  crater  is  covered  with  luxuriant  vegetation 
from  the  centre  to  the  circumference,  and,  with  the  houses 
of  the  natives  nestling  in  its  bosom,  it  looks  a  beautiful  and 
inviting  spot,  "  presenting  an  impressive  contrast  to  the 
dreariness  and  desolation  without."  f  The  island  is  only 
about  two  miles  in  circumference.  It  had  a  population  at 
the  time  of  which  we  write  of  about  250  or  300.     From  the 

*  The  name  is  formed  from  aj)0,  hallow,  and  lima,  hand, 
t  See  Williams'  "Missionary  Enterprises,"  pp.  487,  483. 


VISIT  TO  APOLIMA.  285 

description  we  have  given,  it  will  be  seen  with  how 
much  ease  it  can  he  turned  into  a  fortress,  that,  with 
little  difficulty,  can  be  defended  against  any  attack  that 
could  be  made  with  such  implements  of  war  as  the 
Samoans  possessed  in  their  heathen  state.  All  that  was 
necessary  was  to  keep  the  narrow  pass  well  guarded, 
which  was  easily  done,  and  to  this  natural  fortress  the 
people  of  Manono  were  accustomed  to  retreat  when  driven 
to  extremities. 

In  the  month  of  June  I  made  a  visit  to  this  interesting 
little  spot.  Mrs  Murray  went  with  me,  and  we  spent  a 
few  hours  very  pleasantly  among  the  people.  They,  at  that 
time,  professed  to  be  of  the  Tongan  religion,  as  it  was 
called,  i.e.,  Wesleyanism,  and  were  shy  of  us  because  we 
were,  as  they  said,  of  the  Tahitian  religion.*  We  had  one 
Church  member  on  the  island,  and  she  belonged  to  a  family 
of  some  importance.  From  her  we  received  a  warm  welcome, 
and  we  were  very  kindly  entertained  in  her  family.  Mr 
Heath  visited  the  island  once,  but  he  was  not  allowed  to 
preach  because  he  was  of  the  Tahitian  rehgion.  In  my 
case  the  people  were  much  less  exclusive.  They  not  only 
allowed  me  to  preach,  but  to  have  the  service  in  their 
chapel.  I  avoided  making  any  allusion  to  either  the 
supposed  Tahitian  religion  or  the  Tongan  religion,  and 
addressed  the  little  congregation  from  the  words,  "We 
preach  Christ."  It  was  the  first  time,  so  far  as  I  know, 
that  the  gospel  had  been  preached  by  a  white  missionary  on 
Apolima.  It  is  a  very  awkward  place  to  visit,  as  an  arrange- 
ment cannot  be  made  beforehand.  An  opportunity  has 
to  be  waited  for  when  wind  and  weather  will  allow ;  and 
when  an  entrance  is,  effected,  a  sudden  change  of  weather 

*  In  the  seuse  in  which  they  meant  it,  they  were  as  much  of  the 
Tahitian  religion  as  we  were,  as  Tahiti  was  the  radiating  point  from  which 
the  light  went  forth  to  Tonga  equally  as  to  other  islands  in  its  neighbour- 
hood. 


286  AN  AWKIVARD  MISHAP. 

may  shut  one  in  as  in  a  prison  for  an  indefinite  time. 
Mrs  Murray  was  certainly  the  first  white  lady  that  ever  set 
foot  on  Apolima,  and  she  had  reason  to  congratulate  herself 
that,  though  she  got  a  little  fright  by  our  boat  striking 
upon  the  reef,  and  sustaining  a  slight  injury  as  we  passed 
through  the  opening,  she  was  not  put  to  any  serious 
inconvenience.  Much  ■  less  fortunate  was  a  party  of  our 
friends,  among  whom  were  both  ladies  and  children,  who 
visited  the  island  a  few  years  since.  Their  boat  was  cap- 
sized as  they  were  passing  through  the  narrow  opening, 
and  they  were  in  no  small  danger.  Happily,  having  native 
aid  at  hand,  all  escaped  with  no  other  inconvenience 
than  what  arose  from  the  fright,  and  getting  thorouglily 
drenched.  Their  situation  was  sufUciently  awkward  when 
they  got  to  the  shore.  They  had  intended  to  make  merely 
a  passing  call,  and  had  not  taken  the  precaution  to  provide 
themselves  with  a  change  of  apparel.  Hence  the  whole 
party  had  to  borrow  from  the  natives,  and  rig  themselves 
from  head  to  foot  in  native  costume,  and  wait  till  their  own 
garments  could  be  washed  and  dried.  Without  shoes  and 
stockings,  and  clothed  with  native  tapa,  they  must  have 
presented  a  ludicrous  appearance. 

We  enjoyed  our  trip  to  the  interesting  little  spot  very 
much,  and  returned  to  our  home  glad  to  have  had  an 
opportunity  of  meeting  the  people  and  speaking  to  them 
of  Christ  and  His  salvation. 

In  July  we  had  a  pleasant  change  of  scene  and  work. 
We  crossed  to  Sapapalii,  where  I  left  Mrs  Murray  with 
Mrs  Nisbet,  while  Mr  Nisbet  and  I  went  on  to  Matautu, 
and,  in  conjunction  with  Mr  Pratt,  revised  a  portion  of 
Scripture  for  the  press.  In  this  work  of  Bible  revision  it 
was  my  privilege  from  this  time  onward  frequently  to  have 
a  hand,  and  to  few  parts  of  my  life  and  labours  do  I  look 
back  with  more  pleasurable  and  grateful  feelings,  tlian  to 
those  spent  in  conjunction  with  brethren,  esteemed  and 


GLOOMY  CLOSE  OF  1857.  287 

beloved,  in  an  employment  so  profitable  to  ourselves,  and 
having  such  important  and  far-reacbing  issues. 

At  the  close  of  November  we  again  crossed  to  Savaii, 
and  at  Sapapalii,  the  station  of  Mr  Nisbet,  about  three 
weeks  were  spent  in  revision  work,  and  on  the  20th  of 
December  we  returned  to  our  home,  not  a  very  inviting 
place  at  this  time,  for  it  was  now  evident  that  the  war  was 
not  really  at  an  end.  All  disguise  was  thrown  off,  and 
both  parties  were  avowedly  preparing  for  another  struggle. 
And  so  closed  the  year  1851,  amid  disappointed  hopes  and 
gloomy  forebodings.  Clouds  were  gathering  thick  and 
hist,  portending  a  storm  not  likely  soon  to  spend  itself. 

We  could  only  go  on  with  such  work  as  was  practicable 
under  the  circumstances,  preaching  to  the  people  as  oppor- 
tunity offered,  doing  everything  in  our  power  to  induce  tlie 
authorities  to  bring  their  miserable  strife  to  an  end,  and 
looking  to  Him  who  is  able  to  make  the  wrath  of  man  to 
praise  Him,  and  to  restrain  the  remainder  of  wrath. 


(288) 


CHAPTEE  XXXVI. 

KETUEN  OF  THE  "JOHN  WILLIAMS"  FROM  ENGLAND— THE  REV.  W.  LAW — A 
PAINFUL  OCCUKRENCE  CONNECTED  WITH  THE  ARRIVAL  OF  THE  "jOHN 
WILLIAMS  " — VISIT   TO    OUR    OUT-STATIONS    IN    CONJUNCTION    WITH   MR 

SUNDERLAND — CHEERING    PROSPECTS REMARKS REVISION    WORK     AND 

MISSIONARY   MEETINGS — A  VETERAN   MISSIONARY— SLIGHT   SYMPTOMS  OF 
PROGRESS  IN  MY  OWN  DISTRICT— DECISION  TO  TAKE  A  VOYAGE  TO  SYDNEY. 

Our  prospects  brightened  both  on  Mauono  and  Upolu 
during  the  early  months  of  1852.  I  spent  the  first  Sabbath 
of  the  year  at  Falelatai,  a  district  on  Upolu  connected 
with  the  Manono  station.  On  Saturday  I  met  the  church 
members  and  candidates,  and  on  Sabbath  had  encouraging 
services,  at  the  close  of  one  of  which  the  ordinance  of 
the  Lord's  Supper  was  administered. 

While  thus  occupied  in  our  own  district,  an  event  of 
public  interest  occurred,  which  called  us  for  a  time  to 
other  but  not  less  congenial  work.  The  "  John  Williams," 
which  had  been  away  for  about  two  years  on  one  of  her 
visits  to  England,  arrived.  She  reached  Upolu  on  the  22d 
of  March.  We  had  but  one  addition  to  the  number  of  our 
missionaries  on  the  present  occasion,  the  Rev.  W.  Law. 
Hio-h  hopes  were  entertained  that  ]\Ir  Law  would  prove  a 
valuable  acquisition  to  our  mission,  and  these  hopes  were 
in  a  fair  way  of  being  realised  when  domestic  affliction 
compelled  him,  after  a  short  term  of  service — about  two 
years — to  retire  from  the  mission  field.     He  proceeded  to 


A  DISTRESSING  OCCURRENCE.  289 

Australia,  and  after  a  short  interval  settled  in  Tasmania, 
where  he  continues  to  the  present  day,  having,  through  all 
the  interv^ening  years,  reminded  us  at  not  distant  intervals, 
by  unmistakable  tokens,  that  he  has  not  forgotten  his  first 
love.  Many  valuable  expressions  of  his  continued  inte- 
rest in  the  cause  of  missions  in  general,  and  in  the  Samoan 
mission  in  particular,  have  from  time  to  time  been  for- 
warded to  our  institution  at  Malua  by  his  church  and 
congregation  in  Launceston,  stimulated  and  advised  no 
doubt  by  their  pastor.  Long  may  he  be  spared  to  labour 
usefully  and  happily  in  the  Master's  service  ! 

There  was  a  deeply  painful  event  connected  with  the 
arrival  of  the  "  John  Williams  "  on  the  present  occasion. 
She  called  at  Tutuila  on  her  way  to  Upolu,  and  took  on 
board  Mr  and  Mrs  Sunderland,  and  Mr  and  Mrs  Powell. 
They  went  on  board  all  well,  and  no  doubt,  like  ourselves, 
were  rejoiced  to  see  the  "  John  Williams  "  safe  from  her 
long  voyage,  and  were  anticipating  much  pleasure  from 
intercourse  with  fellow-labourers  at  the  Leeward  Islands ; 
but  alas !  a  fearful  stroke  fell  upon  one  of  the  families, 
which  cast  a  deep  gloom  over  all  on  board,  and  sent  a  pang 
of  grief  through  the  mission  as  the  sad  tidings  reached  one 
and  another  of  its  members.  A  dear  little  boy,  about  two 
and  a  half  years  of  age,  was  seized  with  an  illness  soon 
after  he  was  taken  on  board,  and  died  the  same  day. 
What  the  bereaved  parents  endured  during  the  four  days 
which  the  voyage  lasted,  and  for  many  subsequent  days, 
only  parents  who  have  themselves  been  bereaved  can 
understand. 

As  usual  on  the  return  of  the  "John  Williams,"  the 
members  of  the  mission  were  convened  for  business.  The 
meeting  was  held  at  Malua.  It  commenced  on  the  31st 
of  March,  and  lasted  for  two  or  three  days.  One  thing 
only  calls  for  particular  mention  here,  viz.,  the  arrange- 
ment for  the  visitation  of  our  out-stations.     To  this  service 

T 


290  ANOTHER  MISSIONARY  VOYAGE. 

Mr  Sunderland  and  myself  were  appointed.  The  arrange- 
ment was  exceedingly  opportune  as  regarded  our  esteemed 
friends  Mr  and  Mrs  Sunderland,  to  whose  heavy  trial  we 
have  referred  above.  It  would  have  been  deeply  trying 
for  them  to  have  returned  at  once  to  their  desolated 
home  ;  and  we  were  also  again  much  in  need  of  a  change. 
Mrs  Liurray's  health  had  continued  much  as  it  was  at 
Tutuila,  but  society  and  frequent  change  had,  by  the 
Divine  blessing,  enabled  us  to  struggle  on.  It  was,  however, 
a  constant  struggle.  Her  state  of  health  for  so  many 
years  was  "  the  crook  in  our  lot,"  which  He  who  does  not 
afflict  willingly  saw  it  for  our  good  to  lay  upon  us. 

We  embarked  on  our  voyage  on  the  27th  of  April,  and 
it  lasted  till  the  8th  of  July.  We  took  with  us  seven 
teachers,  and  a  number  of  natives  of  different  islands,  who 
had  been  over  three  years  under  Christian  instruction 
and  influence  in  Samoa.  There  were  four  natives  of 
Vate,  four  Eramangans,  and  four  Niueans.  We  went  our 
accustomed  round,  beginning  with  Aneiteum  and  ending 
with  Nine,  and  a  deeply  interesting  voyage  we  had,  greatly 
surpassing  any  previous  one.  It  was  now  unmistak- 
ably evident  that  we  had  really  entered  upon  a  new  era 
in  our  evangelistic  work,  and  wonder  and  gratitude  filled 
our  hearts  as  we  went  from  island  to  island,  and  witnessed 
the  triumphs  of  the  gospel ;  and  on  oin-  return  we  had  a 
tale  to  tell  which  greatly  cheered  the  hearts  of  our  brethren 
and  our  native  teachers  and  churches.  Wliile  we  rehearsed 
to  them  the  wonders  which  God  had  wi'ought,  and  told 
them  how  the  fields  were  white  unto  the  harvest,  and  the 
first-fi'uits  were  being  gathered  in,  fervent  thanksgivings 
arose  from  joyous  hearts,  and,  with  an  emphasis  unknown 
before,  "we  thanked  God  and  took  courage."  It  is  re- 
markable that  tokens  of  success  began  to  appear  about 
the  same  time  on  the  island  of  Aneiteum  in  the  New 
Hebrides,  and  on  the  Loyalty  Islands.     The  commence- 


A  DEVOTED  SERVANT  OF  THE  LORD.         291 

ment  of  the  missions  dates  from  the  same  month  of  the 
same  year,  and  the  trials  and  vicissitudes  through  which 
they  had  passed  had  been  very  similar.  They  had  been 
very  much  one  in  their  "  night  of  toil,"  and  now  they  were 
one  also  in  the  opening  upon  them  of  a  "  morning  of  joy." 

We  got  back  to  our  own  station  on  Manono  on  the  22d 
of  July — not,  however,  to  settle  down  to  steady  work  there, 
as  had  been  our  wont  when  returning  from  former  voyages. 
Literally  at  this  stage  of  our  course  we  had  no  abiding 
home.  We  found  the  state  of  things  on  our  return  much 
as  it  was  when  we  left,  both  on  Manono  and  at  other  parts 
of  our  district. 

We  had  been  at  home  only  four  Sabbaths  when  we  were 
called  to  proceed  to  Falealili,  where  a  month  was  spent  in 
Bible  revision,  pleasantly  varied  at  short  intervals  by 
missionary  meetings.  Of  these,  three  were  held  in  different 
parts  of  Mr  Stallworthy's  district,  at  each  of  which  an 
account  of  our  late  voyage  was  given.  Great  interest  was 
excited  by  the  cheering  tidings  we  had  to  communicate, 
and  pleasant  and  interesting  in  a  high  degree  were  those 
times  spent  and  enjoyed  at  Falealili  on  tliis  occasion. 
There  was  one  member  of  Mr  Stallworthy's  family  to  whom 
an  unusual  interest  attached — the  Eev.  Charles  Wilson,  Mr 
Stallworthy's  father-in-law.  Mr  Wilson  was  the  last 
survivor  in  the  islands  of  the  second  party  of  missionaries 
who  sailed  in  the  "  Duff,"  in  1798.  He  had  been  a  labo- 
rious and  devoted  missionary  on  Tahiti  for  many,  many 
years,  and  now,  compelled  by  bodily  infirmity,  he  had 
retned  from  active  service,  and  was  calmly  waiting  the 
Master's  call  to  enter  into  rest.  He  continued  in  the  family 
of  his  son-in-law  till  his  long  pilgrimage  closed  in  July 
1857,  in  the  eighty-seventh  year  of  his  age. 

Having  finished  our  engagements  at  Falealili  we  returned 
to  Manono,  and  resumed  our  work  in  our  own  district  for 
a  little  while.     My  labours  were  as  usual  divided  between 


292  DETERMINATION  TO  VISIT  SYDNEY. 

the  different  parts  of  the  district,  and  there  were  some 
encouraging  symptoms,  especially  at  Falelatai.  Parties 
who  had  fallen  from  the  church  through  tlie  war  were 
seeking  re-admission,  and  there  were  a  few  other  candi- 
dates. 

In  the  month  of  October  we  felt  constrained  again  to 
entertain  the  question  of  seeking  a  change.  We  had 
managed  to  drag  along  during  the  time  that  had  passed 
since  we  left  Tutuila,  but  now  there  appeared  no  alternative. 
We  seemed  shut  up  to  leave  Samoa  for  a  season,  in  order 
to  obtain  medical  aid,  and  try  the  effect  of  a  change  to  a 
cooler  climate.  Satisfied  as  to  the  path  of  duty,  we  deter- 
mined to  proceed,  D.v.,  in  the  "John  Williams"  on  her 
next  voyage  to  Sydney. 


(^93) 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

DErAUTURE  FROM  SAMOA — ARRIVAL  IN  SYDNEY — ACCIDENT  TO  THE  "  JOHN 
WILLIAMS  " — UNEXPECTED  ARRIVAL  IN  SYDNEY — ANOTHER  MISSIONARY 
VOYAGE — CONTINUED  PROGRESS  ON  ANEITEUM — MR  AND  MRS  INGLIS — SAD 
0CCDRRENCE3  ON  TANNA — PROGRESS  ON  ERAMANGA,  VATE,  AND  THE 
LOYALTY  ISLANDS — DEATH  OF  THE  TEACHER  SETEFANO— BRIEF  NOTICE 
OP  HIS  LIFE  AND  CHARACTER — ARRIVAL  AT  SAMOA — MANONO  ABANDONED 
AS  A  PRINCIPAL  STATION — REVISION  WORK — APPOINTMENT  TO  APIA. 

After  making  u])  our  minds  to  leave  Samoa  for  a  time, 
we  had  not  long  to  wait.  The  "  John  Williams  "  arrived 
at  the  close  of  November,  and  in  a  fortnight  after  her 
arrival,  we  were  on  board  and  on  our  way  to  Sydney.  We 
sailed  on  the  13th  of  December  1852,  and  reached  our 
destination  on  the  4th  of  January  1853. 

During  the  few  months  of  my  residence  in  Sydney,  I 
found  congenial  and  useful  work,  and  the  end  of  our  visit 
was  being  answered  to  a  very  gratifying  extent.  Mrs 
Murray  was  rapidly  improving  in  health,  and  we  were 
expecting  to  remain  quietly  in  Australia  till  about  April 
or  May  of  the  following  year,  when  we  hoped  her  health 
would  be  quite  re-established.  But  an  unexpected  occur- 
rence came  in  the  way,  and  led  to  the  adoption  of  a  very 
different  course.  To  the  surprise  of  all  concerned,  the 
"  John  Williams  "  arrived  in  Sydney  in  the  month  of  July. 
She  had  had  a  very  narrow  escape  from  being  ^vi-ecked  at 
the  island  of  Borabora,  and  had  sustained  so  much  damage 
that  it  was  necessary  for  her  to  come  on  to  Sydney  with 
all  practicable  speed  for  repairs.     And  it  had  been  arranged 


294  AN  UNEXPECTED  CALL. 

in  Samoa,  that  after  she  had  been  repaired,  she  shoukl 
proceed  from  Sydney  direct  to  visit  our  out-stations.  Mr 
and  Mrs  Sunderland  came  on  in  the  vessel,  and  I  was 
requested  by  the  mission  to  join  Mr  Sunderland,  should 
that  be  practicable,  and,  in  conjunction  with  him,  make  the 
round  of  the  stations.  The  step  which  I  was  thus  called 
to  take  was,  in  some  aspects  of  it,  a  very  painful  one,  yet 
it  was  not  impracticable.  Mrs  ]\iurray's  health  was  so  far 
restored  that  she  could  be  left,  and  the  result  was  that, 
after  full  consideration,  and  using  all  available  means  to 
ascertain  the  path  of  duty,  we  decided  to  accede  to  the 
wish  of  the  brethren. 

It  was  near  the  middle  of  October  when  the  vessel  was 
ready  for  sea.  And  on  the  13th  of  that  month  we  sailed, 
and  directed  our  course  towards  the  island  of  Aneiteum. 
We  had  a  fine  run,  and  on  the  21st,  the  eighth  day  from 
our  leading  Sydney,  we  sighted  the  island,  and  on  the 
following  morning  we  anchored  in  the  harbour  of  Anele- 
gauhat. 

It  was  our  happiness  to  find  the  mission  families  and 
teachers  well,  and  the  mission  in  a  deeply  interesting- 
state.  I  say  "families,"  for  there  were  now  two  mission 
families  on  the  island.  Since  last  visit,  the  Eev.  John 
Inglis,  from  the  Eeformed  Presbyterian  Church  of  Scotland, 
who  had  been  for  a  number  of  years  in  New  Zealand,  had 
joined  the  mission,  and  was  settled  at  Aname,  near  the 
spot  where  the  first  teachers  were  landed  in  1841.  The 
arrival  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Inglis  aj^peared  specially  opportune. 
A  second  missionary  was  much  needed,  and  they  seemed 
well  adapted  for  the  sphere  they  were  called  to  occupy. 
Highly  gratified,  indeed,  were  we  to  find  that  they  had 
come  to  the  aid  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Geddie,  who  had  so  long 
laboured  and  suffered  alone. 

We  were  delighted  to  find  that  the  high  expectations 
,  tliat  had  been  raised  by  the  briglit  signs  of  promise  that 


PROGRESS  IN  THE  OUT-STATIONS.  295 

were  appearing  when  we  last  visited  the  island  were  being 
fully  realised — perhaps  I  might  say  exceeded,  for  the  pro- 
gress during  the  short  interval  had  been  very  rapid.  The 
numbers  attending  schools  and  services  had  very  greatly 
increased ;  light  was  fast  spreading,  and,  in  the  case  of 
many,  there  was  good  ground  to  believe  that  the  truth 
was  taking  hold  of  their  hearts.  We  had  the  satisfaction 
of  being  the  bearers  of  the  first  complete  portion  of  Scrip- 
ture that  had  been  printed  in  any  language  or  dialect  of 
AVestern  Polynesia.  It  was  the  Gospel  of  Mark.  Mr 
Geddie,  of  course,  was  the  translator.  The  MS.  had  been 
taken  to  Sydney  by  Mr  Sunderland,  and  during  the  stay 
of  the  "  John  Williams "  there,  an  edition  of  3000  was 
printed. 

From  Aneiteum  we  proceeded  to  Fotuna,  and  there, 
under  circumstances  of  much  interest  and  promise,  mis- 
sionary operations  were  resumed  after  they  had  been  sus- 
pended for  more  than  ten  years.  We  found  a  sad  state 
of  things  at  Tanna.  A  vessel  from  California  had  brought 
the  small-pox  to  the  island.  Of  the  teachers,  only  one 
family  escaped,  a  number  of  the  natives  died,  and  the 
mission  was  broken  up.  The  remaining  teacher  and  his 
wife,  after  their  lives  had  been  in  imminent  peril  for  a 
length  of  time,  had  fled  to  Aneiteum. 

On  Eramango  and  Vate  a  little  progress  was  being 
made,  and  on  the  Loyalty  Islands  all  was  cheering  in  a 
very  high  degree.  During  the  interval  of  the  present  and 
the  former  visit,  there  had  been  steady  and  rapid  progress, 
and  it  was  now  our  privilege  to  witness  a  state  of  things 
such  as  certainly  had  never  before  been  seen  in  similar 
circumstances,  either  in  Eastern  or  Western  Polynesia. 

The  mighty  change  that  was  in  progress  had  been 
brought  about  solely  by  the  blessing  of  God  upon  the 
labours  of  teachers  from  the  eastern  islands — Hervey 
Islanders  and  Samoans.     All  that  the  white  missionary 


296     WONDERFUL  CHANGE  ON  MARE  AND  LIEU. 

had  done  was  to  make  visits  at  distant  intervals. 
Throughout  the  island  of  Lifu  generally,  and  in  the 
Christian  part  of  Mare,  a  complete  revolution  liad  been 
effected  in  the  entire  framework  of  society,  and  externally, 
at  least,  all  things  were  made  new.  Everywhere  the  cry 
was  for  missionaries,  and  most  urgently  were  missionaries 
needed,  as  the  mission  had  reached  a  stage  when  it  could 
not  be  much  longer  left  in  the  hands  of  our  native  labourers 
without  the  danger  of  a  reaction.  That  danger,  however, 
had  to  be  incurred,  as  we  were  not  in  circumstances  at  the 
time  to  place  missionaries  on  the  group.  Deeply  painful 
was  it  to  us  to  be  unable  even  to  speak  with  confidence  as 
to  when  missionaries  might  be  expected. 

About  a  fortnight  after  we  left  Aneiteum,  on  our  way  to 
Samoa,  an  event  occurred  which  cast  something  of  a  gloom 
over  our  company.  Setefano,  whom  we  had  brought  from 
Vate  in  the  hope  of  getting  him  home  alive,  if  not  with 
health  somewhat  recruited,  was  taken  from  us.  He  im- 
proved slightly  after  he  came  on  board,  but  the  improve- 
ment was  not  of  long  continuance.  After  a  short  time  he 
became  decidedly  worse,  his  strength  rapidly  declined,  and 
on  the  1st  of  December  he  passed  peacefully  away.  The 
apparent  improvement  wliich  took  place  after  he  came  on 
board  misled  us  as  to  the  real  state  of  his  health.  As  was 
afterwards  manifest,  the  disease  had  done  its  work  before 
that  time.  His  strength  was  gone ;  he  had  worn  himself 
out  in  doing  and  suffering  in  his  Master's  service ;  and  all 
that  remained  to  him  on  earth  was  a  few  days  of  waiting, 
ill  much  weakness,  but  not  in  severe  suffering ;  these  past, 
the  warfare  was  at  an  end,  and  the  victory  won. 

Setefano  was  a  native  of  Pangopango,  so  all  his  little 
history  was  known  to  me.  He  was  rather  an  interesting- 
man.  He  was  possessed  of  considerable  decision  of  character, 
and  his  natural  abilities  were  of  a  fair  order ;  he  was  grave 
and  sober,  rather  inclining  to  sternness.     He  continued  a 


BIOGRAPHICAL  NOTICE.  297 

lieathen  for  a  considerable  time  after  the  introduction  of 
the  gospel  to  his  native  land,  but  when  he  did  embrace 
Christianity,  he  did  not  remain  long  a  mere  nominal 
Christian ;  and,  from  the  time  he  professed  to  have  given 
himself  to  the  Saviour,  he  came  out  boldly  and  decidedly, 
and  never  afterwards  seemed  to  waver  in  his  attachment 
or  fidelity  to  his  new  Master.  After  being  for  a  length  of 
time  under  training  in  my  teachers'  class,  he  offered  him- 
self for  foreign  service,  and  he  was  one  of  the  first  four 
teachers  who  were  placed  on  Vate  in  1845.  His  wife  died 
about  eighteen  months  or  two  years  after  their  settlement 
on  Vate,  so  that  for  about  six  years  he  lived  and  laboured 
and  suffered  alone  among  the  savage  Vatese,  till,  as  we  have 
seen,  he  was  worn  out  and  died.  He  lived  and  died 
unknown  to  fame,  but  his  name  will  live  and  have  a  place 
in  the  history  of  the  Vate  mission,  as  one  of  the  first  who 
"  bore  the  heat  and  burden  of  the  day "  in  laying  the 
foundation  of  that  mission ;  and  we  doubt  not  he  has  met 
the  approving  smile  of  the  Master  whom  he  loved  and 
trusted,  and  in  whose  service  he  died. 

Our  return  voyage  on  the  present  occasion  was  protracted 
beyond  all  previous  voyages.  We  sailed  from  Aneiteum 
on  the  15th  of  November  1853,  and  did  not  reach  Samoa 
till  the  first  week  of  January  1854. 

My  return  from  the  present  voyage  was  under  circum- 
stances very  different  to  those  under  which  all  former 
voyages  had  closed.  It  was  trying  to  return  alone,  but, 
in  addition  to  that,  I  found  myself  without  a  home.  During 
our  absence  tlie  war  had  broken  out  afresh.  The  long- 
threatened  attack  on  Manono  had  been  made.  It  had  been 
successfully  repelled,  but  the  island  had  very  narrowly 
escaped  being  made  a  desolation,  and  the  brethren  of  the 
mission  had  thought  it  advisable  to  have  everything  belong- 
ing to  us  removed ;  so  the  station  was  broken  up,  and  it 
was  not  considered  desirable,  under  the  circumstances,  that 


298  APPOINTMENT  TO  APIA. 

I  should  resume  my  work  on  the  island.  I  found  a  home 
in  the  meanwhile  at  Malua  witli  our  kind  friends  Dr  and 
Mrs  Turner.  In  their  happy  family  I  always  met  with  a 
warm  welcome ;  and,  while  I  was  without  a  station  of  my 
own,  useful  work  was  found,  chiefly  in  Bible  revision. 

At  a  general  meeting  of  the  mission,  which  was  held 
soon  after  our  return,  it  was  arranged  that  I  should  take 
charge  of  the  station  at  Apia  during  the  anticipated 
absence  of  Mr  Mills,  he  being  about  to  proceed  to  Sydney 
on  account  of  health. 

The  interval  between  my  appointment  to  Apia  and 
entering  upon  the  charge  of  the  station  was  spent  chiefly 
at  Falealili  and  Matautu  in  the  way  I  have  named ;  and  I 
was  able,  moreover,  to  make  a  visit  or  two  to  Manono  and 
Falelatai.  Manono  was  in  a  sadly  distracted  state,  but 
Falelatai  was  keeping  aloof  from  the  war,  and  was  in  con- 
sequence in  a  much  more  satisfactory  state. 


(^99) 


CHAPTEE  XXXVIII. 

ENTERING  UPON  THE  CARE  OF  THE  APIA  STATION — THE  HARBOUR  AND  VILLAGE 
OP  APIA— POPULATION,  NATIVE  AND  FOREIGN — THE  ISLAND  OF  UPOLU — 
STATE  OF  THE  DISTRICT — FIRST  SABBATH  AT  APIA — ARRIVAL  OF  MESSRS 
CREAGH  AND   JONES — MISSIONARY   MEETINGS — HOPEFUL   CONVERSION  OF 

AN     IMPORTANT     CHIEF ARRANGEMENT    WITH    REFERENCE    TO    MALUA 

VOYAGE  OF  THE  "  JOHN  WILLIAMS  "  TO  THE  OUT-STATIONS — RETURN  AND 
DEPARTURE  FOR  ENGLAND — MISSIONARY  MEETINGS— CONTRIBUTIONS — 
SYMPTOMS  OF  IMPROVEMENT  IN  THE  APIA  DISTRICT — COMPLETION  OF  THE 
TRANSLATION  AND  PRINTING  OF  THE  SAMOAN  BIBLE — CELEBRATION  OF 
THE  EVENT  THROUGHOUT  THE  GROUP. 

The  departure  of  Mr  Mills  and  family,  which  took  place 
on  the  24th  of  April  1854,  opened  the  way  for  carrying 
into  effect  the  arrangement  to  which  reference  has  been 
already  made,  and  from  that  time  the  care  of  the  station, 
which  he  had  occupied  from  the  commencement  of  the 
mission,  devolved  upon  me. 

The  circumstances  in  which  I  found  myself  at  Apia 
differed  widely  from  anything  to  which  I  had  been 
accustomed  in  the  former  part  of  my  missionary  life.  The 
stir  and  bustle  there  formed  a  great  contrast  to  the  quiet 
of  Tutuila,  especially  of  Leone,  where  there  is  no  harbour, 
and  where,  in  those  days,  a  vessel  was  but  rarely  seen, 
and  the  foreign  population  consisted  of  only  two  or  three 
families. 

The  bay  in  which  the  village  of  Apia  is  situated  is  the 
harbour  of  the  Leeward  Islands.  Even  in  those  early  days 
it  was  seldom  without  vessels,  and  as  years  passed  on,  it 


300 


DESCRIPTION  OF  AFIA. 


was  more  and  more  frequented,  till  it  came  to  be  a  rare 
tliin<T  to  see  a  clear  harbour. 

The  British  and  American  consuls  have  resided  at  Apia 
ever  since  these  Governments  have  been  represented  in 
Samoa.  The  first  American  consul,  or  commercial  agent, 
as  he  was  called  in  these  early  days,  was  Mr  J.  C.  Williams, 
son  of  the  Eev.  John  Williams,  appointed  by  Commodore 
Wilkes  of  the  American  Exploring  Expedition  in  1840  ;  and 


"•^^i^ 


BAV    AND   VILLAGE   OF   APIA. 


the  first  Enghsh  consul  was  Mr  Pritchard,  formerly  of 
Tahiti,  who,  as  already  noticed,  arrived  in  H.M.S.  "  Daphne  " 
in  1847.  The  safety  which  the  harbour  aftbrds,  except  in 
case  of  a  hurricane,  when  very  few  harbours  are  perfectly 
safe ;  the  centrality  of  the  situation ;  and  the  facilities 
which  exist  for  obtaining  water,  wood,  and  supplies,  native 
and  foreign,  have  all  combined  to  make  Apia  the  chief 
resort  of  persons  visiting  the  islands  for  purposes  of  trade, 


THE  ISLAND  OF  UPOLU.  301 

and  to  lead  settlers  to  make  it  their  place  of  permanent 
abode. 

The  island  of  Upolu ''  is  the  central  island  of  the 
Sanioan  group,  and  Apia  is  about  the  middle  of  the  island 
on  the  north  side.  Upolu  is  acknowledged  on  all  hands 
to  be  the  finest  island  of  the  group,  but  something  much 
liigher  than  that  may  be  claimed  for  it.  I  have  seen  a 
large  number  of  islands,  extending  from  the  Marquesas  to 
New  Guinea,  and  far  beyond,  many  of  them  very  beautiful, 
and  I  can  say  without  any  hesitation  that,  according  to 
my  ideas  of  beauty,  a  lovelier  island  than  Upolu  I  have 
not  seen.  Tastes  differ,  of  course,  but  according  to  my 
notion,  and  the  extent  of  my  acquaintance  with  Polynesia, 
Upolu  is  the  Queen  of  the  Pacific.  Tahiti  is  more  bold 
and  grand,  but  for  quiet  loveliness  Upolu  is  to  my  eye 
unrivalled. 

Commodore  Wilkes  speaks  of  the  island  as  follows : — 
"  In  the  morning  we  were  delighted  with  the  view  of  the 
latter  island  (Upolu)  as  we  ran  down  its  coast  to  the 
westward.  It  appears  much  richer  and  more  fertile  than 
the  other  islands  of  the  group,  and  may  be  described  as  of 
moderate  height,  rising  gradually  in  a  succession  of  ridges 
from  a  low  shore ;  here  and  there  broad,  fertile  valleys  are 
seen,  with  numerous  streams  falling  from  the  mountains  in 

cascades The  shore  is  lined  with  a  coral  reef,  which 

is  now  and  tlien  interrupted  by  channels,  and  forms  snug 
and  convenient  harbours."  Well  do  I  remember  the 
delight  and  admu-ation  with  which  I  gazed  upon  the 
lovely  scene,  when,  in  the  early  morning  of  a  beautiful  day 

*  Upolu  is  about  120  miles  in  circumference.  Like  all  the  principal 
islands  of  Polynesia,  the  great  island  of  New  Guinea,  and  the  islands  of  the 
Indian  Archipelago  which  I  have  seen,  it  lies  south-east  and  north-west. 
This  is  a  remarkable  fact,  deserving  of  more  attention  than,  so  far  as  I 
know,  has  yet  been  given  to  it  ;  and  it  is  the  more  remarkable  as  all  the 
continents  on  the  globe  lie  north  and  south. 


302  CORAL  REEFS. 

in  June  1836,  I  first  sailed  along  tlie  coast  towards  Apia ; 
and  though  it  became  so  familiar  in  after  years,  I  never 
ceased  to  admire  its  beauties.  The  coral  reef,  of  which 
Commodore  Wilkes  speaks,  extends  round  perhaps  three- 
fourths  of  the  island,  and  adds  greatly  to  its  picturesque- 
ness  and  beauty.  The  alo-alo,  as  the  natives  call  the 
space  between  the  reef  and  the  shore,  varies  in  breadth 
from  thirty  or  forty  feet  to  three  or  four  miles.*  It  varies 
also  in  dejjth  from  two  or  three  feet  to  many  fathoms.  It 
is  of  great  use  to  the  natives,  affording  as  it  does  excellent 
facilities  for  fishing,  and  also  for  intercommunication 
between  different  parts  of  the  island.  However  rough  may 
be  the  ocean  outside,  it  is  generally  possible  to  get  along 
inside  the  reef  without  much  difficulty  or  discomfort. 

Anything  more  charming  than  one  often  sees  in  sailing 
over  parts  of  these  margins  of  the  great  ocean  on  a  calm, 
bright  day,  especially  in  the  early  morn,  it  would  be 
difficult  to  imagine.  The  surface  is  often  placid  as  a 
summer  lake,  and  the  water  clear  as  crystal,  and  fathoms 
below  is  something  suggestive  of  a  fairy  scene — branching 
coral  of  varying  forms  and  sizes  and  colours,  and  many 
other  objects  of  interest  and  beauty  ;  and  all  enlivened  by 
hundreds,  perhaps  I  might  say  thousands,  of  the  finn}' 
tribes,  larger  and  smaller,  and  many  of  them  of  colours  the 
most  beautiful  and  brilliant,  disporting  themselves  in  all 
the  exuberance  of  joyous  life. 

The  village  of  Apia  is  small ;  the  native  population,  at 
the  time  referred  to,  did  not  much  exceed  two  hundred; 
l)ut  there  are  other  villages  in  the  immediate  neighbour- 
liood  :  hence  there  was  a  considerable  population  within 
a  short  distance.  The  district  embraced  from  ten  to  twelve 
miles  of  coast-line,  and  the  entire  native  population  was 
2700,  and  the  foreign  population — white  and  coloured — 
might  amount  to  about  one  hundred  and  fifty. 

*  See  "Nineteen  Years  in  Polynesia,"  pp.  95,  96. 


ENTERING  UPON  MY  WORK  AT  APIA.         303 

I  took  up  my  abode  at  Apia  in  the  last  week  of  April 
1854,  and  the  last  day  of  that  mouth  was  my  first  Sabbatli 
in  my  new  sphere.  The  village  of  Apia  and  a  large  part 
of  the  district  had  stood  aloof  from  the  war,  while  another, 
and  that  close  to  Apia,  had  been  fully  committed  to  it 
from  the  beginning — so  thoroughly  was  this  the  case,  that 
on  its  territory  were  the  principal  forts  of  the  Manono 
party,  and  of  that  party  it  was  the  great  rendezvous.  In 
that  part  of  the  district  all  missionary  operations  were 
suspended,  except  preaching  in  the  camps  on  the  Sabbath  ; 
and  the  neutral  villages,  though  services  and  schools  and 
classes  were  continued,  had  not  escaped  its  deteriorating 
influence. 

My  first  Sabbath  passed  encouragingly.  I  addressed  the 
natives  from  2  Cor.  v.  20,  and  our  little  Endish  conffre- 
gation  from,  I  suppose,  the  same  text ;  and,  in  the  after- 
noon, I  went  to  a  village  about  four  miles  distant,  and 
addressed  a  congi-egation  composed  of  the  people  of  two 
adjacent  villages.  And  for  many  years  this  was  my 
ordinary  Sabbath-day's  work — viz.,  the  native  service  in 
the  morning  at  Apia,  an  English  service  at  11  a.m.,  and  a 
little  ser\dce  in  the  afternoon  at  one  of  the  villao-es  within 
a  manageable  distance.  In  this  service  I  generally  had 
help  from  the  teacher  of  the  village,  and  though  to  keep 
up  these  services  was  something  of  an  effort,  I  used  greatly 
to  enjoy  my  quiet  rides  on  horseback,  or  journeys  in 
canoes  to  the  villages,  and  my  meetings  with  the  villagers, 
who  used  to  welcome  me  with  hearty  greetings,  and  listen 
witli  much  apparent  interest  to  the  addresses  delivered  to 
them.  The  state  of  things  throughout  the  district  will 
come  out  more  fully  as  we  proceed. 

The  first  noteworthy  occurrence,  after  I  took  up  my 
abode  at  Apia,  was  an  event  in  which  every  member 
of  our  mission  felt  a  deep  interest.  Early  in  1853,  through 
the  combined  efforts  of  the  Rev.  William  Gill  of  Earotonoa, 


304    ARRIVAL  OF  MESSRS  CREAGH  AND  JONES. 

who  was  at  the  time  en  route  to  England,  the  Eev.  W. 
Harbutt  of  the  Samoan  mission,  and  myself,  a  Society  was 
formed  in  Sydney,  auxiliary  to  the  London  Missionary 
Society,  in  connection  with  Pitt  Street  Congregational 
Church,  then  under  the  pastoral  care  of  the  Eev,  Dr  Koss, 
and  the  Congregational  Church,  Eedfern,  the  pastor  of 
which  was  the  Eev.  Joseph  Beazley,  now  of  Blackheath, 
London ;  and  at  the  same  meeting  at  which  the  Society 
was  formed  it  was  resolved  that  an  appKcation  should 
be  made  to  the  Directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society 
to  send  two  missionaries  to  labour  in  some  part  of  Western 
Polynesia,  the  newly-formed  Society  pledging  itself  for 
their  permanent  support,  and  stipulating  that  they  should 
be  considered,  in  a  special  sense,  its  missionaries.  The 
application  met  with  the  reception  it  deserved  from  the 
Directors  of  the  parent  Society,  and  in  the  arrival  of  the 
Eev.  S.  M.  Creagh  and  the  Eev.  J.  Jones  we  had  their 
response.  Messrs  Creagh  and  Jones  arrived  on  the  23d 
of  May,  and  remained  with  us  in  Samoa  till  the  September 
following. 

On  the  30th  of  the  same  month  we  held  our  annual 
missionary  meetings — the  first  of  many,  many  interesting 
occasions  of  the  kind,  in  which  it  was  my  privilege  to  take 
part  at  Apia.  Everything,  of  course,  was  in  a  dej^ressed 
state  on  account  of  the  war,  still  the  meetings  were  inte- 
resting, and  a  pleasing  spirit  was  manifested.  Dr  Turner 
and  Mr  Ella  kindly  lent  us  their  aid.  The  contributions 
amounted  to  £39,  12s.  6d.  in  cash,  and  there  was  also  a 
(quantity  of  native  property,  and  a  little  cocoa-nut  oil. 

About  this  time  Moengangongo,*  one  of  the  most 
important  chiefs  in  Samoa,  one  of  the  few  denominated 
"kings,"  broke  off  from  the  war,  and  declared  his  deter- 
mination to  renounce  everything  contrary  to  the  Word  of 
(lod,  and  seek  the  salvation  of  his  soul.     Moengangongo 

*  We  spell  the  name,  Moegagogo,  but  we  give  to  (j  the  sound  of  ng. 


ARRANGEMENT  RELATIVE  TO  MALUA.        305 

was  very  extensively  connected,  and  did  not  always  reside 
at  one  place,  but  his  usual  place  of  residence  was  Faleata, 
part  of  the  district  connected  with  the  Apia  station — the 
seat  of  the  war  referred  to  above.  He  was  an  elderly  man, 
and  down  to  this  time  had  been  mingling  among  all  the 
polluting  scenes  of  heathenism,  and  his  mind  was  no 
doubt  very  dark ;  but  his  subsequent  course  was  such  as 
to  encourage  the  hope  that  he  was  sincere  in  his  profes- 
sion. We  shall  meet  with  him  again  in  the  course  of  our 
narrative. 

On  the  24th  of  August  the  "John  Williams"  arrived 
from  Sydney,  and  her  arrival  on  this  occasion  was  to  me 
an  event  of  special  interest.  Mrs  Murray  was  a  passenger 
by  her,  and  she  was  very  much  improved  in  health.  At 
the  meetmg  held  on  the  return  of  the  vessel,  an  important 
alteration  was  made  in  our  ckcumstances.  Our  appoint- 
ment to  Apia  was  temporary,  and  Mr  and  Mrs  Hardie  were 
about  to  leave  their  work  at  Malua,  also  temporarily,  as 
was  hoped.  They  were  about  to  proceed  to  England  on  a 
visit ;  and  to  meet  the  case  as  satisfactorily  as  the  state  of 
the  mission  would  allow,  it  was  arranged  that  we  should 
reside  at  Malua,  and  I  should  share  the  duties  of  the  Insti- 
tution with  Dr  Turner,  still  retaining  the  charge  of  the  Apia 
station,  while  the  Malua  church  and  district  should  be  in 
Dr  Turner's  charge  ;  and  the  Sabbath  services  we  were  to 
share,  as  circumstances  might  allow  and  render  expedient. 
It  was  thought,  moreover,  that  the  quiet  of  Malua  would 
suit  Mrs  Murray  better  than  the  stir  and  bustle  of  Apia. 

In  accordance  with  this  arrangement,  we  moved  to  Malua 
on  the  2d  of  October,  and  entered  upon  the  duties  of  our 
now  double  charge.  These  we  did  our  best  to  overtake,  but 
the  circumstances  were  such  as  to  render  their  satisfactory 
discharge  a  matter  of  much  difficulty.  The  distance  be- 
tween Malua  and  Apia  is  about  twelve  miles,  and  the  con- 
stant jouinejdng  to  and  fro  involved  a  great  deal  of  fatigue 

u 


3o6  MISSIONARIES  SETTLED  ON  MARE. 

and  exposure,  and,  with  our  slow  modes  of  travel,  generally 
by  canoe  or  a  small  boat,  much  loss  of  time.  However,  it 
seemed  the  best  arrangement  that  could  be  made  under  the 
circumstances. 

On  the  20tli  of  September  the  "  John  Williams  "  sailed 
on  one  of  her  periodical  visits  to  our  out-stations.  This 
was  a  voyage  of  peculiar  interest,  as  she  took  the  newly- 
arrived  missionaries,  Messrs  Creagh  and  Jones,  and  their 
wives,  in  order  to  convey  them  to  the  field  of  labour  that 
might  appear  to  them  and  the  deputation  from  the  Samoan 
mission  to  have  tlie  strongest  claims.  The  deputation  con- 
sisted of  the  brethren  Hardie  and  Sunderland  ;  Mr  Hardie 
going  to  return  by  the  "  John  Williams ; "  Mr  and  Mrs 
Sunderland  to  remain  for  a  time  with  the  young  mission- 
aries. In  the  beginning  of  December  the  "John  Williams" 
returned,  having  successfully  accomplished  the  important 
objects  of  her  voyage.  Mr  Hardie  had  a  delightful  tale  to 
tell.  There  were  some  dark  shades  of  course,  but  the  re- 
port, on  the  whole,  was  of  a  highly  encouraging  character. 
The  young  missionaries  had  been  located  on  the  island  of 
Mare ;  they  had  been  enthusiastically  received,  and  they 
and  Mr  Sunderland  had  been  left  in  circumstances  perhaps 
as  cheering  and  interesting  as  any  under  which  first  mis- 
sionaries ever  entered  upon  their  labours. 

The  "  John  Williams  "  made  a  very  short  stay  with  us 
on  the  present  occasion.  It  was  the  stormy  season,  and 
she  was  making  all  haste  to  set  out  on  one  of  her  home 
voyages.  On  the  21st  of  December  she  sailed  for  England, 
taking  as  passengers  Mr  and  Mrs  Hardie,  and  twelve  chil- 
dren from  our  mission. 

During  the  early  months  of  1855  our  prospects  had 
begun  to  brighten  considerably.  Tor  some  months  there 
had  been  promising  indications  in  various  parts  of  the 
district,  and  among  other  fruits  of  the  improved  state  of 
things,  the  large  increase  in  the  liberality  of  the  people 


STATE  OF  THE  APIA  DISTRICT.  307 

was  not  the  least  remarkable.  A  short  paper  which  ap- 
peared in  the  "  Samoan  Eeporter "  may  here  be  inserted. 
Having  been  \mtten  about  the  time  and  on  the  spot, 
it  may  have  advantages  over  recollections — even  though 
these  are  compiled  from  memoranda  made  at  \\\q,  same 
date.     The  paper  referred  to  is  as  follows  :— 

"  The  Apia  district  contains  a  population  (native)  num- 
bering about  2700.  These  are  scattered  over  some  twenty 
villages,  and  are  under  the  care  of  fifteen  native  teachers  ; 
the  teachers  are  the  schoolmasters,  as  well  as  the  religious 
teachers,  of  the  respective  villages  under  their  care.  The 
schools  contain  upwards  of  500  children  at  the  present 
time.  The  war  and  other  untoward  circumstances  retarded 
the  progress  of  education  in  past  years,  but  now  encourag- 
ing advances  are  being  made,  and  there  is  reason  to  hope 
that  all  now  under  instruction  will  ere  long  be  able  to 
read  fluently  and  intelligently.  Perhaps  about  150  may 
be  able  to  do  tliis  now.  In  addition  to  reading,  writing, 
and  arithmetic,  a  little  geograpliy  and  general  knowledge 
are  also  being  taught. 

"  The  church  numbers  200  members,  and  the  candidates 
for  admission  considerably  exceed  that  number.  During 
the  past  year  we  have  not  been  without  indications  that 
our  labours  are  not  in  vain.  Among  these  indications  the 
liberality  of  the  people  deserves  special  notice.  When  a 
people  are  willing  to  pay  for  the  gospel,  it  seems  a  fair 
inference  that  they  attach  some  value  to  it.  The  following 
sums  have  been  contributed  to  the  cause  of  God,  or  ex- 
pended in  connection  with  it,  during  the  past  year  (1855). 
For  the  support  of  their  own  teachers,  the  people  have 
raised  in  money  or  given  in  property  to  the  value  of 
£40, 14s.  In  aid  of  the  London  IMissionary  Society — raised 
by  the  children,  £33, 12s.  3d. ;  by  adults,  £53,  5s.  9d. ;  in  all, 
£86,  18s. ;  and  in  the  purchase  of  books  £64  have  been 
expended,  making  a  total  of  £191,  12s." 


3o8        COMPLETION  OF  THE  S A  MO  AN  BIBLE. 

Few  if  any  additions  had  been  made  to  the  church  since 
I  took  charge  of  the  station,  so  the  200  members  were  the 
fruits  of  the  labours  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Mills.  Having  but 
temporary  charge  at  this  time,  and  having  known  very 
little  of  the  people  till  my  connection  with  the  station 
commenced,  I  thought  it  well  to  proceed  cautiously. 

The  year  1855  was  rendered  memorable  in  the  history 
of  the  Samoan  mission  by  an  event  wliich  deserves  a  per- 
manent record,  and  perhaps  I  cannot  do  better  than  copy 
from  the  "  Samoan  Eeporter "  a  notice  of  the  event  to 
which  I  refer,  which  was  written  at  the  time.  It  expresses 
not  my  own  sentiments  and  feelings  only,  but  those 
also,  I  doubt  not,  of  my  esteemed  brethren  and  fellow- 
labourers.  It  is  headed  "  The  Samoan  Scriptures,"  and  is 
as  follows : — 

"  The  most  important  event  we  have  to  record  in  our 
present  number  is  the  completion  of  the  Samoan  trans- 
lation of  the  Sacred  Scriptures.  That  great  work  was 
finished  early  in  September  last,  and  during  that  and  the 
following  month,  public  meetings  were  held  at  all  the 
stations  throughout  the  group,  to  celebrate  the  joyous 
event. 

"  These  meetings  were  seasons  of  peculiar  interest.  The 
event  celebrated  was  felt  to  be  an  era  in  Samoan  history, 
perhaps  the  most  important  that  has  ever  occurred,  or 
ever  will  occur,  if  we  except  'the  introduction  of  the 
gospel  to  the  group.  All  the  leading  points  in  the 
history  of  the  mission,  linked  as  they  have  been  with  the 
translation  and  circulation  of  the  sacred  volume,  were 
brought  before  the  mind  ;  and  not  small  were  the  joy  and 
gratitude  felt  in  view  of  what  God  had  wrought.  The 
results  already  realised  were  felt  to  caU  for  the  devoutest 
thanks,  and  to  furnish  occasion  for  the  most  exalted  joy ; 
while  bright  visions  of  the  future  rose  before  the  mind,  of 
a  work  widening  and  extending  down  through  successive 


CELEBRATION  OF  THE  EVENT  309 

generations,  bearing  down  every  obstacle,  and  conferring 
the  most  precious  temporal  and  eternal  blessings  without 
limit  and  without  end. 

"  The  natives  manifested  an  interest  scarcely  inferior 
to  that  felt  by  the  missionaries,  and  many  of  them  have 
since  evinced  that  their  interest  was  not  confined  to  the 
passing  hour.  Their  subsequent  efforts  to  possess  them- 
selves of  the  sacred  volume  have  been  in  keeping  with 
the  remarks  then  made,  and  the  interest  manifested. 
There  was  an  encouraging  demand  for  the  Scriptures  in 
many  parts  before  the  meetings,  but  it  has  greatly  in- 
creased since,  and  there  is  reason  to  hope  that  it  will 
continue 

"The  first  party  of  missionaries,  appointed  to  Samoa 
reached  their  destination  on  the  10th  of  June  1836.  The 
lu'st  issue  from  the  Samoan  press  of  a  complete  portion  of 
Scripture  was  in  1841 ;  and  the  translation  and  printing 
of  the  Bible  were  completed  in  September  1855,  a  little 
more  than  nineteen  years  from  the  commencement  of  the 
mission  by  European  labourers. 

"  It  is  an  interesting  fact,  and,  so  far  as  we  know,  a 
singular  one  as  regards  Southern  Polynesia,  that  the 
Samoan  version  of  the  Scriptures  has  been  printed  from 
beginning  to  end  on  the  spot,  and  that  a  large  part  of  tlie 
work  has  been  done  by  native  workmen,  under  European 
superintendence  of  course.  It  has  been  issued  in  parts, 
containing  one,  two,  or  more  books,  and  these  have  been 
bound  in  volumes  of  convenient  size.  The  entire  Old  and 
New  Testaments  are  in  four  volumes,  exclusive  of  the 
Psalms,  which  are  bound  separately 

"  Such  as  the  version  is,  the  translators  commend  it  to 
Him  by  whose  good  hand  upon  them  it  has  been  executed. 
They  implore  His  blessing  to  rest  upon  its  circidation,  and 
upon  the  difiusion  of  His  own  truth  in  all  the  languages 
and  nations  of  the  earth  ■  they  offer  their  heartiest  thanks 


3IO  THANKSGIVING. 

for  having  been  sustained  through  so  many  years  of 
wearing  labour  and  toU;  and  they  adopt,  as  the  most 
appropriate  conclusion  to  this  record,  the  language  of  the 
ancient  Church : — '  Not  unto  us,  0  Lord,  not  unto  us,  but 
unto  Thy  name  give  glory.'  " 


(3iO 


CHArTEE   XXXIX. 

VISIT  OF  THK  UNITED  STATES  SHIP  OP  WAR  "ST  MART's" — PROCEEDINGS  OF 
CAPTAIN  BAILEY — VISITS  OF  H.M.S.  "  JUNO  "  AND  "  DIDO  " — THE  UNITED 
STATES  FRIGATE  "INDEPENDENCE" — EXTRAORDINARY  PROCEEDINGS — 
MAY  MEETINGS — MR  MILLS  DECIDES  NOT  TO  RETURN  TO  THE  MISSION 
FIELD— MRS  MILLS — DEFINITE  ARRANGEMENT  WITH  REFERENCE  TO  THE 
APIA  STATION — ENCOURAGING  INDICATIONS — SCHOOL  FOR  THE  CHILDREN 
OF  FOREIGN  SETTLERS — TERMINATION  OF  THE  WAR. 

The  closing  months  of  1855  was  a  time  of  unusual  stir 
and  excitement  at  Apia.  On  the  15  th  of  September  the 
United  States  ship  of  war  "St  Mary's"  arrived,  Captain 
Bailey,  commander.  The  special  object  of  Captain  Bailey's 
visit  was  to  inquire  into  and  adjudicate  upon  various 
matters  that  were  in  dispute  between  the  natives  and 
citizens  of  the  United  States.  Some  of  these  matters  were 
of  grave  import,  and  Captain  Bailey  had  no  small  difficulty 
in  ascertaining  their  real  merits. 

All  went  on  smoothly  till  towards  the  close  of  Captain 
Bailey's  stay,  when  difficulties  arose  between  him  and  the 
natives  of  Faleata,  which  well-nigh  led  to  very  serious 
consequences.  The  occasion  was  a  very  paltry  affair,  but, 
in  the  course  of  the  negotiations  between  the  captain  and 
the  natives,  it  came  to  assume  such  an  important  bearing, 
that  he  determined,  that  unless  a  stipulation  which  he  had 
made  should  be  complied  with,  the  honour  of  the  United 
States  would  demand  that  he  should  inflict  punishment 
upon  the  offenders.  His  demand  was,  that  the  chief, 
IMoengangongo,  should  go  on  board  his  ship,  and  have  an 


3 1 2         DIFFICUL  TIES  WITH  A  MA N- OF-  WA R. 

interview  with  him.  His  going  on  board  was  to  be  viewed 
as  an  acknowledgment  that  he  and  his  people  were  in  the 
wrong.  The  chief  himself  might  not,  in  the  state  of  mind 
in  which  he  then  was,  have  objected  to  go,  but  his  people 
were  determined  he  should  not,  and  were  ready  to  submit 
to  anything  Captain  Bailey  might  choose  to  inflict  upon 
them  rather  than  trust  their  chief  on  board.  The  captain 
of  an  American  man-of-war  some  time  before  had  not  kept 
faith  with  two  or  three  important  chiefs  who  went  on 
board  his  ship  with  the  understanding  that  they  were  not 
to  be  detained.  They  were  detained ;  and  this  mistaken 
policy,  on  the  part  of  the  commander  of  the  vessel  referred 
to,  was  fresh  in  the  minds  of  the  natives,  and  was  no  doubt 
one  principal  reason  why  they  would  not  trust  then-  chief 
on  board  the  "  St  Mary's." 

But  there  was  another  consideration  to  which  they 
attached  great  importance,  viz.,  that  compliance  with 
Captain  Bailey's  demand  would  be  equivalent  to  the 
renunciation  of  his  independence.  I  was  at  Malua  when 
the  difficulties  arose.  I  had  left  Apia  with  the  under- 
standing that  all  matters  in  dispute  had  been  adjusted,  and 
the  present  affair  had  sprung  up  after  my  departure. 
Between  three  and  four  o'clock  one  morning  I  was  aroused 
by  the  arrival  of  a  messenger  from  Apia,  with  the  startling 
intelligence  that  an  attack  was  to  be  made  upon  Faleata 
that  same  morning.  He  brought  a  note  from  one  of  the 
foreign  residents,  urging  me  to  make  all  haste  thither,  and 
stating  that,  unless  the  natives  could  be  brought  to  submit 
to  Captain  Bailey's  terms,  there  would  certainly  be  blood- 
shed. The  captain  had  given  the  natives  till  9  a.m.  that 
day  to  consider  his  demand,  and  unless  it  was  complied 
with,  the  attack  would  then  be  commenced. 

I  was  among  the  natives  with  the  least  possible  delay, 
and,  with  some  difficulty,  got  them  persuaded  to  go  on  to 
Apia  to  meet  me  there.    They  seemed  inclined  just  to  remain 


A  HARD  STRUGGLE.  373 

quietly  where  they  were,  and  leave  the  captain  to  do  what 
he  pleased.  They  with  the  chief,  however,  went  on  to 
Apia.  Leaving  them  gathered  together  there,  I  hastened 
on  board  the  "  St  Mary's,"  in  order  to  ascertain  how  matters 
really  stood,  and  what  could  he  done  towards  bringing 
about  an  amicable  settlement  of  the  business.  I  found 
that  it  was  as  stated  above — the  captain's  demand  must  be 
complied  with,  or  the  attack  must  be  made.  According  to 
the  captain's  view  there  was  no  alternative.  He  appeared 
very  glad  that  I  had  come  to  counsel  and  advise  the  natives, 
and  agreed  to  defer  the  commencement  of  hostilities  for  an 
hour  beyond  the  time  that  had  been  fixed,  i.e.,  till  10  A.M. 

I  returned  to  the  shore,  and  found  the  natives  assembled 
in  the  chapel.  I  put  before  them  as  strongly  and  forcibly 
as  I  could  the  awkward  circumstances  into  which  they  had 
been  brought,  and  the  danger  that  was  impending,  which 
could  be  averted  in  no  other  way  than  by  complying  with 
Captain  Bailey's  demand.  It  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  get 
the  natives  to  act  with  decision  and  promptitude  in  an 
emergency.  Speech  after  speech  was  interchanged  with 
most  provoking  formality  and  prolixity  on  the  part  of  the 
natives,  and  always  ending  in  the  same  strain — they  cmild 
not  and  would  not  let  their  chief  go.  They  could  not  trust 
the  captain,  and,  moreover,  compliance  would  compromise 
the  dignity  of  the  chief;  his  honour  would  be  gone.  Talk- 
ing largely,  they  said  he  was  the  only  remaining  king  in 
Samoa ;  meaning,  I  suppose,  the  only  one  whose  dignity 
had  not  been  sullied.  The  captain  might  do  his  worst, 
destroy  their  houses  and  property,  and  lay  their  lands 
waste  ;  they  were  determined  their  cliief  should  not  go  on 
board  his  ship.  I  replied  to  their  excited  speeches  as  best 
I  could,  telling  them  that  though  they  might  not  feel  that 
they  could  trust  the  captain,  they  might  trust  me — they 
had  known  me  for  a  long  time,  and  I  had  never  deceived 
them,  and  I  would  guarantee  the  chief's  return.     Let  the 


314  THE  POINT  GAINED. 

chief  go  mth  me,  and  if  I  return  he  will  return.  Tlie  cap- 
tain has  pledged  liis  word  to  me,  and  he  will  not  break  it. 
The  other  objection  it  was  more  difficult  to  meet,  as,  ac- 
cording to  their  view,  there  was  gTeat  weight  in  it.  I  con- 
tinued, however,  to  urge  compliance  as  the  wisest  course 
we  could  adopt  under  the  circumstances. 

While  all  this  was  going  on  the  chief  sat  silent.  I 
seemed  to  have  gained  nothing,  and  the  time  was  gone. 
At  length  the  discussion  was  brought  to  a  close  by  the 
chief  starting  up,  and  exclaiming,  "  I  will  go  with  the  mis- 
sionary." No  sooner  said  than  done.  Off  we  went,  the 
cliief  elbowing  his  way  through  the  noisy,  excited  crowd 
towards  the  boat,  which  was  waiting  on  the  beach.  Jump- 
ing into  the  boat,  I  felt  such  a  relief.  We  had  gained  our 
point ! — no ;  not  yet.  Just  as  the  chief  was  approaching 
the  boat,  a  number  of  strong,  powerful  men  seized  him, 
and,  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye,  he  was  borne  off  through 
the  crowd,  and  speedily  lost  sight  of.  My  heart  sank  ;  the 
time  was  up,  and  I  could  only  sorrowfully  ask  the  person 
in  charge  of  the  boat  to  shove  off,  telling  him  that  I  had 
done  everything  in  my  power;  the  chief  was  detained 
against  his  will,  and  nothing  more  could  be  done.  The 
boat  was  being  pushed  off,  when,  to  my  great  joy,  I  saw 
the  chief  again  pushing  his  way  through  the  crowd,  and 
beckoning  for  the  boat  to  stop.  He  was  a  very  large, 
powerful  man,  besides  being  a  great  chief,  so  it  was  not  an 
easy  matter  to  keep  him  against  his  will.  He  was  soon  in 
the  boat,  and  we  were  off  to  the  ship  in  something  like 
triumph,  as  I  thought  and  felt ;  though  doubtless  my  com- 
panion was  of  another  mind.  He  was  going  to  save  his 
people  from  being  attacked,  and  perhaps  partly  in  deference 
to  me,  but  he,  no  doubt,  felt'  that  he  was  taking  a  humiliating 
step.  I  confess  to  liave  felt  sorry  for  him  on  that  ground, 
still  I  had  no  hesitancy  in  urging  submission.  On  the  side 
of  the  captain  there  was  power,  and  prudence  seemed  to 


SA  TISFA  CTOR  Y  RESUL  T.  315 

leave  but  one  course  open  to  the  natives ;  and  with  all 
right-minded  people  the  chief's  dignity  would  not  really  he 
compromised,  llather  did  he  do  himself  real  honour  by 
submitting.  "  He  that  ruleth  his  own  spirit  is  greater  than 
he  that  taketh  a  city." 

To  the  credit  of  Captain  Bailey  be  it  recorded,  my  suc- 
cess appeared  to  be  as  gratifying  to  him  as  it  was  to  me. 
He  was  acting  under  what  appeared  to  him  a  necessity, 
and  he  seemed  very  glad  to  be  relieved  from  proceed- 
ing to  extremities.  The  chief  went  on  board,  and  had  a 
friendly  interview  with  the  captain,  which  he  regarded  as 
an  act  of  submission,  and  a  sufficient  vindication  of  the 
honour  of  the  United  States'  flag.  And  so  the  exciting 
business  was  got  over.  During  the  course  of  the  day  the 
captain  called,  and  thanked  me  very  cordially,  telling  me 
how  glad  he  was  that  he  had  been  saved  the  necessity  of 
proceeding  to  extremities.  "  My  young  men,"  he  remarked, 
"  were  very  anxious  to  have  a  brush,  but  they  have  not  the 
responsibility." 

After  the  above  awkward  affair  all  went  smoothly  be- 
tween the  captain  and  the  natives,  and  he  took  his 
departure,  leaving  behind  him  the  impression  that  he  had 
honestly  aimed  to  hold  an  even  balance  between  contend- 
ing parties,  and  to  act  in  the  manner  which  he  conceived 
worthy  of  the  great  country  which  he  represented. 

The  "  St  Mary's  "  had  not  long  left  when  the  "  Juno," 
British  man-of-war.  Captain  Freemantle,  arrived.  She 
arrived  on  the  18th  of  October  and  remained  nearly  a 
month,  and  on  the  3d  of  November,  we  had  a  visit 
from  another  British  man-of-war,  the  "Dido,"  Captain 
Moreshed. 

Captain  Freemantle  found  various  matters  of  importance 
requiring  adjustment  between  the  natives  and  British 
subjects.  To  all  he  gave  careful  attention,  and  his  decisions 
appeared  to  us  reasonable  and  just.     The  following  short 


3 16  BRITISH  MEN-OF-  WAR. 

extract  from  the  "Samoan  Eeporter"  embraces  all  that 
need  be  said  with  reference  to  the  visits  of  these  vessels  : 
— "  We  have  great  pleasure  in  being  able  to  speak  in  terms 
of  strong  commendation  of  the  conduct  of  Captains  Free- 
mantle  and  Moreshed.  In  all  their  proceedings  during 
their  stay,  their  conduct  was  uniformly  such  as  to  reflect 
the  highest  credit  on  the  country  they  represent  and  on 
the  religion  they  profess.  The  '  Juno  '  sailed  on  the  14th 
of  November,  and  the  'Dido'  on  the  15th  of  the  same 
month." 

Nothing  occurred  after  the  departure  of  these  vessels 
calling  for  particular  remark  during  the  remainder  of  this 
year ;  and  the  early  months  of  the  new  year  1856,  though 
they  were  passed  amid  considerable  difficulties  and  trials, 
need  not  detain  us. 

In  the  month  of  April  we  had  a  painful  addition  to  our 
troubles  from  a  very  unexpected  quarter.  Another  man- 
of-war,  the  United  States  frigate  "  Independence "  visited 
us,  and  occasioned  us  a  great  amount  of  worry  and  vexa- 
tion. The  conduct  of  her  commander  towards  the  natives 
and  ourselves  was  very  extraordinary. 

The  natives  of  a  district  about  seven  or  eight  miles  from 
Apia  had  quite  as  narrow  an  escape  from  being  attacked 
as  the  people  of  Faleata,  and  in  the  present  case  the  attack 
was  averted  with  much  greater  difficulty,  as  the  visitors, 
instigated  and  led  by  a  gentleman  against  whom  Captain 
Bailey  gave  judgment  in  favour  of  the  natives,  were  seeking 
occasion  against  them,  and  were  only  kept  from  attacking 
them  by  being  brought  into  circumstances  that  put  it  out 
of  their  power  to  do  so  with  any  kind  of  decency.  The 
attack  was  planned  with  all  possible  secrecy,  and  I  got  to 
know  of  it  just  in  time  to  allow  of  my  reaching  the  village 
as  operations  were  about  to  be  commenced.  When  I 
reached  the  spot,  not  later  I  think  tlian  8  a.m.,  I  found 
seventy  men  drawn  up  in  battle  array  and  on  the  point  of 


ANO THER  NARRO  W  ESCAPE.  3 1 7 

opening  fire  upon  the  natives.  I  pushed  forward  to  the 
person  in  command,  who  had  announced  that  in  ten 
minutes  the  attack  would  commence,  and  begged  him  to 
tell  me  what  he  wished,  and  allow  me  time,  and  I  would 
try  to  get  the  natives  to  comply  with  his  wishes.  He  felt, 
I  suppose,  that  he  could  not  with  any  show  of  reason  refuse 
to  stay  proceedings  for  a  time,  so  he  replied  sternly  and 
with  scant  civility,  "  I  want  so  many  hogs  " — I  forget  the 
number.  The  hogs  were  ajine  imposed  for  a  paltry  offence 
said  to  have  been  committed  against  an  American  citizen.* 
With  great  difficulty  I  succeeded  in  getting  the  natives 
to  collect  a  number  of  hogs.  It  is  not  easy,  as  already  re- 
marked, to  get  them  to  act  promptly  in  any  emergency,  and 
in  the  present  case  it  was  especially  difficult  as  they  felt 
that  they  were  being  imposed  upon.  They  had  prepared  to 
fight  their  assailants,  and  if  the  attack  had  been  made,  the 
loss  of  life  would  not  have  been  all  on  one  side.  The 
natives  knew  better  than  their  enemies  were  aware  of  liow 
to  use  their  guns,  and  they  were  all  ready. 

The  hogs  collected  were  inspected  and  declared  to  be 
not  enough,  and  the  natives  could  raise  no  more,  so  our 
irate  visitors  were  asked  if  they  would  take  the  balance 
of  the  fine  in  yams.  They  could  not  well  refuse  such  a 
proposal,  so  it  was  agreed  that  a  certain  number  of  yams 
should  be  added  to  the  hogs,  and  as  these  could  not  be 
got  at  once,  it  was  arranged  that  they  should  be  delivered 
by  the  natives  at  Apia.  The  natives  took  the  yams 
according  to  agreement  in  their  own  boat  to  Apia.  They, 
the  yams,  were  received  by  their  oppressors,  and — will  it 
be  believed  ? — they  were  robbed  of  their  boat  on  the  pretext 

*  The  party  said  to  have  been  aggrieved — a  poor  inoffensive  sort  of  man, 
whose  interest  it  was  to  keep  on  friendly  terms  with  the  natives — was  on 
the  spot,  and  declared  that  he  did  not  wish  them  attacked  on  his  account. 
He  was  married  to  a  native,  had  a  number  of  children,  and  was  not  likely 
ever  to  leave  Samoa.     Hence  his  aversion  to  incur  their  indignation. 


3i8  WINDING-UP  OF  THE  AFFAIR. 

that  the  quantity  of  yams  taken  was  not  sufficient !  The 
party  who  was  the  instigator  of  the  whole  affair  was 
superseded  soon  after,  and  his  successor  restored  to  the 
natives  their  boat.  But  it  seemed  to  us  a  surprising  thing 
that  a  gentleman,  holding  the  position  of  commodore  in 
the  United  States  navy,  should  allow  himself  to  be  a  party 
to  conduct  so  contemptibly  paltry.  There  were  other 
things  in  the  conduct  of  Commodore  not  less  repre- 
hensible than  the  affair  of  which  we  have  given  the 
particiilars,  but  we  must  pass  them  by.  There  was  at 
least  one  gentleman  on  board,  the  chaplain,  who  was 
heartily  ashamed  of  the  conduct  of  his  countrymen.  He 
condemned  it  quite  as  strongly  as  we  did,  and  he  regarded 
with  especial  scorn  the  "  Hog  Expedition,"  as  he  denomi- 
nated the  above  affair. 

In  the  month  of  May,  our  annual  missionary  meetings 
were  held  at  Malua  and  Apia.  Tlie  brethren  Turner,  Ella, 
and  Drummond  were  with  us  at  the  Apia  meetings.  We 
had  a  very  large  gathering,  and  all  passed  off  pleasantly. 
The  contributions  to  the  London  Missionary  Society 
amounted  to  £94,  8s.  6d.  At  Malua,  the  contributions  for 
the  London  Missionary  Society  were  £64, 4s.  4d.  The  sums 
raised  for  the  support  of  teachers  at  home  this  year  I  am 
unable  to  give.  After  the  first  year  or  two,  they  generally 
amounted  to  something  a  little  under  what  was  raised  for 
the  London  Missionary  Society.  In  Samoa,  as  elsewhere, 
the  two  things  went  hand  in  hand.  Those  who  did  most 
for  the  one  did  most  for  the  other,  so  our  teachers  never 
needed  to  fear  that  their  own  incomes  would  be  diminished 
by  the  liberality  of  their  people  towards  foreign  objects  ; 
nor,  so  far  as  I  am  aware,  did  they  ever  discover  any 
apprehension  or  jealousy  on  this  ground.  They  were 
always  among  the  most  liberal  contributors  themselves, 
and  they  strove  zealously  to  get  their  people  to  follow 
their  example. 


DECISION  OF  MR  AND  MRS  MILLS.  319 

The  time  had  now  come  when  arrangements  must  be 
made  for  the  full  and  permanent  occupation  of  the  Apia 
station.  Mr  IVIills  had  decided  not  to  return,  and  the 
station  required  the  entire  time  and  attention  of  a  mission- 
ary. Hence,  at  a  meeting  held  in  the  month  of  June  of 
this  year,  1856,  I  was  released  from  my  Malua  appoint- 
ment, and  left  at  liberty  to  give  my  undivided  attention  to 
Apia. 

It  cost  our  esteemed  friends,  Mr  and  Mrs  Mills,  a  great 
struggle  to  give  up  the  hope  of  returning  to  the  mission 
field.  Mission  work  had  had  their  first  love,  and  to  it  their 
hearts  fondly  clung.  Considerations  connected  with  health 
and  family  circumstances,  however,  decided  them,  after 
long  hesitancy,  in  favour  of  remaining  in  Australia. 
Indeed,  in  the  case  of  Mrs  Mills,  it  is  doubtful  whether 
the  effect  of  remaining  was  not  more  injurious  to  her 
health  than  a  return  to  the  islands  would  have  been.  Her 
attachment  to  the  mission  field  and  to  mission  work  was 
such,  that  separation  from  these  *  was  a  constant  trial 
throughout  her  few  remaining  years.  In  Sydney,  as  in 
Samoa,  she  taxed  her  time  and  strength  to  the  utmost  in 
works  of  faith  and  labours  of  love,  till  disease  compelled 
her  to  desist.  In  1861  the  patient  unostentatious  worker 
for  Christ  passed  away  to  that  blessed  home  where  "  there 
is  rest  for  the  weary."  I  cannot  help  feeling  that  it  is 
much  to  be  regretted  that  no  record  of  the  life  and  labours 
of  Mrs  Mills  has  been  given  to  the  world.  A  weU-executed 
memoir  of  her  might  have  worthily  taken  its  place  by  the 
side  of  the  lives  of  other  gifted  women,  who,  in  modern 
times,  have  consecrated  themselves  to  the  cause  of  Chris- 
tian missions ;  and,  like  the  memoirs  of  the  Judsons, 
Mrs  Winslow  of  the  Ceylon  mission,  Mrs  Smith  of  the 
Syrian  mission,  Mrs  Wilson  of  Bombay,  Fidelia  Fisk,  and 
other  loved  and  venerated  names,  might  have  kindled  in 
other  hearts  a  flame  of  missionary  zeal  similar  to  her  own, 


320  CHARACTER  OF  MRS  MILLS. 

and  stimulated  and  encouraged  the  friends  and  supporters 
of  a  cause  for  which  characters  such  as  these  are  found 
willing  to  forsake  all  the  attractions  and  endearments  of 
home  and  civilised  life,  and  to  lahour  and  suffer  and  die  in 
sickly  climes,  and  among  degraded  and  barbarous  tribes  of 
men. 

Surely  when  such  fall,  the  precious  fragments  they  leave 
behind  should  be  gathered  up  that  nothing  be  lost.  I 
know  that,  in  the  case  of  the  dear  departed  sister  of  whom 
I  write,  the  fragments  which  she  left  would  have  been  well 
worth  gathering.  She  was  a  woman  of  superior  natural 
abilities;  she  had  enjoyed  high  educational  advantages; 
she  had  great  decision  of  character,  and  her  zeal  and 
industry  were  in  keeping  with  her  other  endowments. 
Often  did  she  go  to  her  classes  when  she  seemed  much 
more  fit  to  recline  on  the  sofa ;  but,  as  if  constantly  acting 
in  the  spirit  of  the  Master's  words,  "  I  must  work  the  works 
of  Him  that  sent  me  while  it  is  day,  for  the  night  cometh,*' 
she  toiled  patiently  on.-  Alas  !  as  it  seemed  to  us,  the  night 
came  all  too  soon ;  but  her  work  was  done,  her  allotted  task 
was  completed,  and  the  compassionate  Taskmaster  called 
her  home. 

Immediately  after  the  meeting  referred  to  above,  we 
removed  to  Apia.  It  was  trying  to  leave  our  esteemed 
friends  at  Malua  to  bear  their  heavy  burden  alone ;  but,  as 
matters  then  stood,  the  plan  adopted  appeared  to  be  the 
best  of  which  the  circumstances  admitted.  We  were 
expecting  by  every  arrival  of  letters  to  have  definite 
information  as  to  Mr  Hardies  intentions.  Down  to  this 
time  we  had  hopes  of  his  return,  so  that  nothing  could  be 
done  towards  the  appointment  of  a  permanent  successor. 

To  me  it  was  an  immense  relief  to  be  freed  from  my 
double  charge;  not  that  the  work  at  Malua  was  uncon- 
genial, but  because  I  was  unable  satisfactorily  to  discharge 
the  duties  that  devolved  upon  me  at  the  two  places.     At 


AN  ENGLISH  SCHOOL  COMMENCED.  321 

Apia  things  began  to  look  brighter  immedi&,tely  after  tlie 
new  arrangement  was  carried  into  effect.  The  old  one 
had  not  given  satisfaction  to  certain  parties,  perhaps  not 
full  satisfaction  to  any,  and  troubles  and  difficulties  had 
arisen  in  consequence.  Among  the  foreign  population  a 
very  favourable  change  took  place.  The  congregation 
increased,  and  something  like  a  new  era  commenced  as 
regards  my  relation  to  them,  and  from  that  time  forward 
all  went  smoothly.  And  to  the  natives,  also,  the  new 
aiTaugement- gave  gi-eat  satisfaction. 

And  now  the  time  seemed  to  have  come  to  attempt  to 
carry  out  a  project  which  I  had  long  had  in  my  mind,  viz., 
to  attempt  the  establishment  of  a  school  for  the  education 
of  the  children  of  foreign  settlers.  There  were  at  the  time 
referred  to  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  of  these,  and 
their  children,  older  and  younger,  numbered  from  eighty 
to  a  hundred.  The  want  of  a  suitable  pro\ision  to  meet 
the  case  of  these  had  long  been  felt,  and  Mr  Mills,  aided 
by  other  members  of  the  mission  and  the  foreign  residents, 
had  taken  steps  towards  the  accomplishment  of  the  object 
ten  years  before.  Money  was  raised,  and  land  and  pre- 
mises M'ere  purchased,  and  it  was  intended  to  commence  an 
educational  establishment,  in  which  the  children  of  for- 
eigners might  be  collected  from  different  parts  of  the  gTOup, 
hnd  a  home,  and  receive  a  suitable  education.  These  steps 
were  taken  in  the  hope  that  a  teacher  would  be  obtained 
from  England,  and  that  some  considerable  pecuniary  help 
would  also  be  obtained.  That  hope  was  not  realised,  and 
nothing  was  done  beyond  the  purchase  of  the  land  and 
premises. 

Now,  June  1856,  it  was  determined  to  make  an  attempt 
to  meet  the  case  in  a  way  that  was  thought  to  be  more 
suitable  to  the  existing  state  of  things  than  what  had  been 
before  planned,  viz.,  by  the  establishment  of  a  day-school. 
One  insuperable  difficulty  that  had  hitherto  stood  in  our 

X 


322  A   TEACHER  FOUND. 

way  was  now  removed  in  a  remarkable  manner.  We  might 
determine  to  commence  a  school,  and  raise  funds  for  its 
support,  but  where  was  the  teacher  to  come  from  ?  That 
question  was  now  met.  A  young  man,  Mr  A.  W.  Stearns, 
who  had  resided  on  the  islands  for  about  eighteen  months 
or  two  years,  and  who,  during  that  time,  had  become  a 
decided  Christian,  was  desirous  of  abandoning  commercial 
pursuits,  in  which  he  had  hitherto  been  engaged,  and  of 
being  employed  in  some  way  having  a  more  direct  bearing 
on  the  welfare  of  others.  The  projected  school  was  pro- 
posed to  him,  and  his  views  were  met. 

Many  of  the  members  of  our  community,  when  it  was 
known  that  Mr  Stearns  was  willing  to  undertake  the  office 
of  schoolmaster,  came  generously  forward  and  contributed 
towards  the  object.  A  public  meeting  was  held,  a  committee 
of  management  chosen,  terms  were  arranged  with  Mr  Stearns, 
and  on  Monday,  June  the  13th,  1856,  the  scliool  was  opened 
with  twenty-four  scholars.  Our  teacher  proved  to  be  "  the 
right  man  in  the  right  place."  He  had  an  arduous  task, 
and  both  teacher  and  committee  had  many  and  great  diffi- 
culties with  which  to  contend. 

The  school  was  almost  entirely  dependent  for  support  on 
our  small  community,  and  many  a  weary  walk  the  members 
of  the  committee  had,  as  month  after  month  they  went 
from  house  to  house  round  our  bay,  collecting  for  the  school. 
By  the  help  and  blessing  of  God,  however,  it  lived  and 
prospered,  and  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  that  our 
efforts  were  not  in  vain.  We  shall  get  glimpses  of  its  pro- 
gress now  and  again  as  we  proceed. 

During  the  remainmg  months  of  this  year  we  went  for- 
ward with  our  accustomed  duties  M'ithout  interruption, 
meeting  with  much  t(^  encourage,  and,  with  the  exception 
of  our  own  domestic  trial,  which  did  not  cease  to  press 
heavily  upon  us,  we  had  much  for  wliich  to  be  thankful 
in  all  the  different  departments  of  labour.     The  state  of 


TERMINATION  OF  THE  WAR.  323 

things  was  increasingly  promising   both   among  natives 
and  foreigners. 

One  event  tliat  took  place  during  the  course  of  this  year 
we  must  not  omit  to  notice.  "VVe  have  had  frequent  occa- 
sion to  refer  to  the  sad  war,  which,  for  so  many  years, 
obstructed  more  or  less  the  progress  of  improvement  of 
every  kind.  It  was,  of  course,  a  matter  of  no  small  satis- 
faction when,  at  length,  we  could  regard  the  evil  as  really 
at  an  end.  The  following  extract  from  a  paper  written  for 
the  "  Reporter  "  at  the  time  expresses  the  views  and  feel- 
ings witli  which  we  hailed  the  advent  of  peace  : — 

"  THE  WAR  AT  AX  END. 

"  It  is  with  feelings  of  lively  gi-atitude  to  God  that  we 
report  the  termination  of  the  war.  Manono  and  her  allies 
declared  peace  on  the  10th  of  July  last,  and  Atua  and 
Aana  did  the  same  on  the  13th  of  December.  The 
miserable  strife  has,  for  nine  long  years,  exerted  a  baneful 
influence  throughout  our  group  of  islands.  The  interests 
of  religion,  morality,  education,  and  civilisation  have  all 
suffered  fearfully.  Matters  might,  however,  have  been 
much  worse.  Like  our  brethren  in  Africa  and  elsewhere, 
we  might  have  had  to  mourn  over  station  after  station 
broken  up,  churches  swept  away,  property  destroyed,  and 
labours  suspended,  whereas  we  have  suffered  comjjaratively 
little." 

The  hopes  expressed  in  the  above  extract  were  to  a  great 
extent  realised,  as  we  shall  see  in  the  course  of  our  record. 
With  the  close  of  1856  ended  a  period  of  sore  trial  to  our- 
selves and  our  churches  and  people  ;  and  with  the  new 
year,  an  era  of  peace  and  prosperity  opened  upon  us,  all 
the  more  welcome  and  inspiring  as  its  advent  had  been  so 
long  delayed. 


(324  ) 


CHAPTER  XL. 

EAKLY  MONTHS  OF  1857  —  HOUSE-BUILDING  —  RETURN  OF  THE  "JOHN 
WILLIAMS"  FROM  HER  FOURTH  VISIT  TO  ENGLAND— RETIREMENT  OF 
CAPTAIN  MORGAN — MR  AND  MRS  GORDON — MISSIONARY  VOYAGE  OF  THE 
"JOHN  WILLIAMS  "—A  VOYAGE  TO  SYDNEY — RETURN  VOYAGE— TAHITI 
—  MR  HOWE — "THE  RIGHT  MAN  IN  THE  RIGHT  PLACE" — CHARACTER 
AND  DEATH  OF  MR  HOWE — ARRIVAL  AT  SAMOA — DANGER  IN  COMMUNI- 
CATING WITH  PANGOPANGO — REACHING  HOME. 

The  early  months  of  1857  were  not  marked  by  any 
extraordinary  occurrence.  We  continued  to  meet  with 
encouragement  in  our  work,  and  went  steadily  forward 
with  our  accustomed  duties.  One  rather  formidable  under- 
taking was  entered  upon,  which  added  considerably  to  our 
cares  and  labours.  The  house  built  by  ]\Ir  Mills  in  early 
days  was  destroyed  in  a  hurricane  in  1850,  and  from  that 
time  till  he  left  he  had  occupied  a  house  that  in  the  emer- 
gency had  been  fitted  up  as  a  temporary  dwelling.  Cir- 
cumstances had  prevented  his  undertaking  the  erection  of 
a  house  such  as  was  required  for  the  station.  Now  it  was 
thought  the  time  had  come  when  an  effort  should  be  made 
to  meet  the  case.  Accordingly,  early  in  the  present  year  the 
work  was  entered  upon,  and  it  proceeded,  with  various  and 
unavoidable  delays,  till  it  was  brought  to  a  successful 
completion.  The  natives  did  all  the  stone-work,  providing 
the  materials,  building  the  walls,  &c.,  &c..  and  the  result 
was  that  a  good,  substantial  house,  90  feet  by  40,  was 


HO  USE-B  UILDING. 


325 


obtained  at  a  comparatively  small  outlay.  The  cost  of 
wood,  wbicli  was  purchased  from  foreigners,  doors  and 
■s^dndows,  which  were  brought  from  Sydney,  foreign  worlc- 
manship,  and  all  other  expenses  connected  with  the  under- 
taking, amounted  to  £160.  The  natives,  as  was  meet  and 
right,  did  their  work  without  being  paid,  and  to  that  it 
was  owins  that  the  house  cost  so  small  a  sum. 


DWELLlNU-HOUSb;   OK    MIb6IUNAK\    AT   Al'IA. 


On  the  27th  of  April  the  "John  Williams"  returned  from 
her  fourth  voyage  to  England.  There  was  one  thing  con- 
nected with  the  arrival  of  the  "John  Williams"  on  the 
present  occasion  whicli  caused  universal  regret  throughout 
our  Polynesian  missions.  The  man  whom  we  all  so  liighly 
esteemed  and  loved  "was  no  long-er  in  command.  Failing 
health  had  compelled  him  to  relincpiisli  the  post  lie  had 


326  RETIREMENT  OF  CAPTAIN  MORGAN. 

filled  so  long  and  so  faithfully,  and,  whatever  might  be  our 
esteem  for,  and  confidence  in,  his  successor,  we  all  seemed 
to  feel  as  if  the  loss  of  Captain  Morgan  was  irreparable — 
as  if  we  should  never  see  his  like  again.  With  reference 
to  Captain  Williams,  who  siicceeded  him,  our  feelings  were 
expressed  in  the  following  words,  which  occur  in  the 
notice  of  the  voyage  in  the  "  Samoan  Eeporter  :  " — "  As 
regards  the  successor  of  Captain  Morgan,  we  have  only  to 
express  our  wish  that,  at  a  distant  day,  he  may  retii'e  from 
that  situation  equally  honoured  and  beloved  as  the  man  he 
is  called  to  succeed." 

On  the  27th  of  May  the  "  Jolin  Williams"  sailed  for  the 
New  Hebrides  and  Loyalty  Islands — Messrs  Dummond 
and  Harbiitt  going  as  a  deputation  to  visit  our  out-stations, 
and  the  newly-formed  missions  in  these  groups.  It  added 
to  the  interest  of  the  present  voyage  that  she  took  as  pas- 
sengers ]\Ir  and  l\Irs  Gordon,  who  had  come  in  her  from 
England,  appointed  to  labour  in  the  New  Hebrides.  A 
melancholy  interest  now  attaches  to  everything  connected 
with  them,  in  consequence  of  the  tragic,  and,  as  it  seems 
to  us,  untimely  termination  of  their  lives  and  labours  on 
the  island  of  Eramanga,  after  labouring  on  it  about  four 
years.  But  to  return  to  matters  more  immediately  con- 
nected with  ourselves.  We  were  again  obliged  to  enter- 
tain the  question  of  a  step  involving  at  least  a  temporary 
absence  from  our  station.  A  change  for  Mrs  IMurray  was 
again  imperatively  demanded,  and  it  was  arranged  that  I 
should  accompany  her  to  Sydney  in  the  "  John  Williams," 
leave  her  there  for  a  change,  and  return  as  quickly  as  pos- 
sible. 

The  "  John  Williams  "  arrived  from  her  visit  to  the  east- 
ward missions  on  the  lOtli  of  December,  and  on  the  4th  of 
January  1858  we  sailed  for  Sydney.  We  had  an  extraor- 
dinarily quick  run,  and  were  in  Sydney  on  the  24th  of  the 
same  month.     The  stay  of  the  vessel  in  Sydney  was  short. 


RETURN  VOYAGE  FROM  SYDNEY.  327 

I  had  sufficient  time,  however,  to  make  all  necessary  ar- 
rangements for  Mrs  Murray's  remaining  there  for  an  inde- 
finite time ;  and  on  tlie  29tli  of  March  we  sailed  on  onr 
return  voyage. 

We  had  a  long  round  in  returning,  as  we  went  first  to 
Tahiti,  but  we  had  a  very  pleasant  party  on  board,  and  I 
had  useful  mission  work  to  do ;  I  had  also  the  privilege 
of  renewing  my  acquaintance  with  places  and  scenes  which 
I  had  not  seen  since  first  I  looked  upon  them  in  1836.  Our 
party  consisted  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Creagh,  Mrs  Howe  of  Tahiti, 
Mrs  W.  W.  Gill  of  Mangaia,  and  Mr  and  Mrs  Matheson 
from  Nova  Scotia,  who  were  on  their  way  to  join  the  New 
Hebrides  mission.  We  were  a  united  and  happy  company, 
so  our  time  passed  pleasantly,  and  I  trust  not  unprofitably. 
We  were  thirty-four  days  between  Sydney  and  Tahiti.  On 
the  2d  of  May  the  romantic  peaks  of  that  land  of  renown 
were  descried  in  the  distance,  and  on  the  evening  of  the 
same  day  we  got  to  anchor  a  few  miles  to  the  east  of 
Papeete,  which  I  suppose  we  may  call  the  capital  of  the 
island. 

At  Tahiti  it  was  my  privilege  to  meet  a  man  witli 
whom  I  had  corresponded  for  years,  but  had  not  before 
seen — the  Eev.  William  Howe.  Mr  Howe  occupied  an 
important  position,  and  a  useful  one,  for  many  years  on 
Tahiti,  though  he  was  sadly  cramped  and  hindered  by  re- 
strictions imposed  by  the  French  authorities.  He  was  not 
allowed  to  preach  to  the  natives,  or  instruct  them  publicly 
in  any  way,  at  the  time  of  our  visit. 

Our  last  evening  at  Tahiti  was  spent  at  Mr  Howe's,  in 
a  manner  befitting  our  circumstances.  Precious  and  never 
to  be  forgotten  was  the  intercourse  we  enjoyed  on  that 
memorable  evening,  and  it  was  the  last  we  were  to  enjoy 
with  Mr  Howe  on  earth.  He  was  only  about  sixty  years 
of  age,  and  looked  strong  and  hale,  but  in  about  two  years 
from  the  time  of  our  visit  he  finished  his  course.    In  1860, 


328     CHARACTER  AND  DEATH  OF  MR  HOWE. 

while  on  his  way  to  Australia  for  a  cliange,  a  disease  with 
which  he  was  afflicted  was  developed  to  an  alarming  extent 
in  the  early  part  of  the  voyage ;  and,  when  he  reached 
Earotonga,  he  M^as  unable  to  proceed  farther,  and  there  he 
obtained  his  release,  and  entered  into  the  joy  of  his 
Lord. 

Mr  Howe  was  a  superior  man,  eminently  fitted  for  the 
very  trying  and  difficult  position  he  occupied  on  Tahiti,  and 
most  creditably  to  himself,  and  honourably  to  the  cause  of 
Protestant  Christianity,  did  he  fill  that  position.  Deter- 
mined attempts  were  made  again  and  again  to  convict  him 
of  having  violated  laws  imposed  by  the  French  authorities, 
with  a  view  to  his  expulsion  from  the  island ;  but,  with  a 
prudence,  ability,  and  heroism  which  silenced  and  rendered 
powerless  his  enemies,  and  cheered  and  encouraged  his 
friends,  he  maintained  his  position,  and  continued  his 
testimony  till  the  Master  whom  he  had  so  faithfully  served 
called  him  home. 

On  the  7th  of  May  we  took  our  leave  of  Tahiti.  On  the 
8th  we  anchored  at  Huahine,  thence  we  proceeded  to 
Eaiatea,  thence  to  Mangaia,  Earotonga,  and  Aitutaki :  and 
on  the  31st  of  May  we  reached  our  own  group.  On  that 
day  we  were  abreast  of  our  old  home — Pangopango.  We 
liad  had  very  boisterous  weather  from  the  time  of  our 
leaving  Eaiatea,  and  when  we  reached  Tutuila  it  was  still 
very  rough.  Hence,  in  communicating  with  Pangopango 
by  boat,  those  of  us  who  were  in  the  boat  were  in  great 
peril.  Never  I  think  w^as  I  in  greater  danger  than  on  that 
occasion,  except  when  Mr  Barnden  and  myself  had  so 
narrow  an  escape  not  far  from  the  same  place  in  early 
days. 

We  reached  Apia  on  Thursday  the  3d  of  June,  and 
glad  and  thankful  was  I  to  get  to  the  close  of  my  long 
voyage,  pleasant  though  it  had  been,  and  to  find  myself  once 
more  at  home. 


(329) 


CHAPTER  XLI. 

ADDITION  OF  THE  SALUAFATA  STATION  TO  THAT  OF  APIA — HISTOUY  OF 
THE  STATION — CONTRIBUTIONS  TO  THE  LONDON  MISSIONARY  SOCIETY, 
AND  FOR  THE  SUPPORT  OF  NATIVE  PASTORS  DURING  1858 — VOYAGE 
OF  THE  "JOHN  WILLIAMS"  AMONG  OUR  OTIT-STATIONS  —  INTRODUC- 
TION OF  THE  GOSPEL  TO  THE  TOKELAU  GROUP — ENCOURAGEMENT  AT 
APIA  —  THE  ENGLISH  SCHOOL — RESIGNATION  OF  MR  STEARNS  —  SOME 
PARTICULARS  RELATIVE  TO  MR  STEARNS — HOPEFUL  CONVERSION  AND 
DEATH  OF  A  SOJOURNER — HOPEFUL  CONVERSION  AND  DEATH  OF  AN 
OLD  SETTLER — REVISION  OF  THE  SAMOAN  BIBLE — MISSIONARY  MEETINGS 
AND    CONTRIBUTIONS     FOB    1859 — ANOTHER     VOYAGE    OF    THE    "JOHN 

WILLIAMS" LOCATION    OF    MESSRS     m'FARLANE   AND    BAKER   ON   LIFU 

— EXTRACT  FROM  THE  REPORT  OP  THE  VOYAGE — DEPARTURE  OF  THE 
"  JOHN  WILLIAMS  "  FOR  ENGLAND — THE  SAMOAN  BIBLE  AND  ANEITEUM 
NEW  TESTAMENT. 

It  was  pleasant  to  be  able  to  settle  down  to  steady  work 
in  my  own  appointed  sphere  of  labour,  after  having  been 
on  the  move  for  about  six  months.  The  state  of  things 
appeared  to  be  much  as  it  was  when  we  left,  both  among 
natives  and  foreigners,  and  my  accustomed  duties  were 
resumed  under  encouraging  circumstances. 

Owing  to  the  departure  of  Mr  Drummond,  it  was  neces- 
sary that  the  station  lately  occupied  by  him,  Saluafata, 
should  for  the  present  at  least  be  united  to  that  of  Apia. 
This  of  course  was  a  considerable  addition  to  the  work  of 
the  missionary  of  that  station,  but  the  addition  was  not 
unwelcome.  To  get  away  from  the  comparative  stir  and 
bustle  of  Apia  for  a  few  days,  every  now  and  again,  to  the 
quiet  of  Saluafata  was  to  me  a  change  which  I  used  greatly 


330  DISTRICT  OF  SALUAFATA. 

to  enjoy,  and  I  do  not  suppose  Apia  lost  much  by  being 
left  occasionally. 

The  Saluafata  station  embraces  fourteen  or  fifteen  vil- 
lages, larger  and  smaller,  having  a  population  a  little  over 
2000.  The  coast-line  from  Apia,  inclusive  of  Fangaloa, 
of  which  we  shall  have  to  speak  by  and  by,  is  about 
eighteen  or  twenty  miles.  Saluafata  Bay  forms  a  good 
harbour,  and  at  one  time  it  was  thought  it  would  rival,  if 
it  did  not  take  precedence  of,  Apia,  from  which  it  is  distant 
about  twelve  miles,  and,  on  that  and  other  accounts,  it  was 
early  fixed  upon  as  an  eligible  place  for  a  mission  station. 
Its  first  missionary  was  my  early  fellow-labourer,  Mr 
Slatyer,  who  commenced  his  work  in  the  district  in  1843, 
and  continued  to  labour  most  zealously,  and  with  an 
encouraging  measure  of  success,  till  the  same  cause  that 
drove  him  from  Tutuila  compelled  him  to  leave  the 
mission  field. 

Mr  Slatyer  was  succeeded  by  Mr  Drummond,  who 
entered  into  his  labours,  and  worked  on  zealously  till  the 
long  war  broke  out  and  wrought  sad  havoc  throughout  the 
district.  Lufihifi,  which  is  the  headquarters  of  Atua,  one 
of  the  three  political  divisions  of  Upolu,  is  close  to  Salua- 
fata. It  and  the  district  of  which  it  is  tlie  acknowledged 
leader,  were  tlie  mainstay  of  one  of  the  war  parties ;  and 
on  that  account  the  district  came  in  for  its  full  share  of 
the  evils  that  arose  from  that  desolating  scourge.  At  the 
time  referred  to,  the  war  was  but  recently  over,  and  its 
effects  were  everywhere  visible.  Scarcely  a  decent  chapel 
was  to  be  found  throughout  the  district,  as  the  number  of 
people  who  stood  aloof  from  the  war  was  comparatively 
small,  and  in  most  places  they  were  unable  to  keep 
the  well-nigh  deserted  chapels  from  going  to  ruin.  Unoc- 
cupied houses  in  Samoa  soon  go  to  decay. 

Soon  after  my  return  we  held  our  annual  missionary 
meetings.     The   contributions  for  the   year  were   smaller 


MISSIONARY  VOYAGES.  331 

than  usual.  On  account  of  my  absence  from  home  at  the 
time  when  the  collections  for  the  support  of  the  native 
pastors  should  have  been  made,  they  had  to  be  made  at 
the  same  time  as  those  for  the  London  ]\Iissionary  Society, 
and  to  that  it  was  doubtless  in  some  measure  owing  that 
there  was  a  falling  off  as  regards  both.  For  the  London 
Missionary  Society  we  had  £62,  16s.  6d.,  and  for  home, 
money  and  property  to  the  value  of  £88,  4s. 

On  the  28th  of  June  the  "  John  Williams  "  sailed  on  her 
ninth  voyage  to  the  New  Hebrides,  the  Loyalty  Islands, 
and  Savage  Island.  Mr  George  Gill  from  the  Hervey 
Island's  mission,  and  Mr  Stallworthy  of  our  mission,  were 
the  deputation.  The  vessel  made  the  usual  round,  and 
got  back  to  Apia  on  the  22d  of  August.  The  deputation 
had  a  deeply  interesting  report  to  give.  They  found  "  the 
fields  white  unto  the  harvest,"  and  their  only  regi'et  was 
— a  regret  in  which  we  all  strongly  sympathised — that 
labourers  could  not  at  once  be  sent  forth  to  enter  in  and 
reap. 

On  this  occasion  a  sort  of  supplementary  voyage  was 
made,  which,  though  it  was  directed  towards  a  small  group 
of  islands,  and  did  not  accomplish  all  we  desired,  yet  had 
important  results.  The  voyage  terminated  on  the  22d  of 
August,  and,  on  the  30th  of  the  same  month,  the  "  John 
Williams  "  again  sailed,  her  destination  being  a  small  group 
of  islands  named  Tokelau.  The  particular  island  of  the 
group  to  which  this  first  effort  was  to  be  directed  was 
Fakaofo,  which  lies  due  north  of  Samoa  at  the  distance  of 
about  three  hundred  miles.  The  group  consists  of  three 
islands,  Atahu,  or  Duke  of  York's  Island ;  Nukunono,  or 
Duke  of  Clarence  Island  ;  and  Fakaofo,  or  Bowditch  Island. 
Our  attention  had  been  drawn  to  the  gToup,  especially  to 
the  island  of  Fakaofo,  by  parties  connected  with  the 
American  Exploring  Expedition,  as  far  back  as  1840 ;  but, 
down  to  the  present  time,  no  effort  had  been  made  to 


332         COMMENCEMENT  OF  A  NEW  MISSION. 

occupy  it  or  any  other  island  of  the  group.  Now  the  time 
seemed  to  have  come  to  discharge  the  long-deferred  obliga- 
tion, and  the  brethren  succeeded  in  introducing  the  gospel 
to  the  group  by  means  of  two  natives  who  had  found  their 
way  to  Samoa  some  years  before. 

While  these  movements,  affecting  the  general  interests 
of  our  missions,  were  in  progress,  we  were  continuing  to 
meet  with  much  encouragement  in  our  own  immediate 
sphere.  Among  the  natives,  and  also  among  the  foreign 
population,  there  were  pleasing  indications  that  God  was 
working  with  us.  All  was  quiet  throughout  the  district ; 
the  teachers  generally  were  w^orking  diligently  in  their 
schools,  and  doing  their  best  to  discharge  with  efficiency 
their  pastoral  duties  ;  and  the  number  of  the  hopeful  was 
being  gradually  augmented. 

One  thing  occasioned  us  considerable  trouble  and  anxiety 
at  this  time.  Cii'cumstances  led  to  our  being  deprived  of 
the  services  of  our  schoolmaster,  Mr  Stearns  ;  and  to  get 
his  place  suitably  filled  was  a  great  difficulty.  After  a 
while,  however,  this  difficulty  was  met.  The  committee 
succeeded  in  securing  the  services  of  Mr  C.  W.  E.  Schmidt, 
who  for  a  number  of  years  filled  the  situation,  and  applied 
himself  diligently  to  the  discharge  of  its  duties,  till  death 
put  a  period  to  his  labours. 

A  few  words  relative  to  our  first  teacher,  Mr  Stearns, 
will  not  be  out  of  place  in  this  record — especially  as  he 
owed  his  conversion  to  missionary  instrumentality.  On  a 
certain  Sabbath,  very  shortly  after  I  took  charge  of  the 
Apia  station,  I  went  to  the  English  chapel  at  the  usual 
hour  of  service,  but,  owing  to  some  cause  which  I  do  not 
now  remember,  there  was  no  congregation,  except  a 
solitary  stranger  whom  I  had  not  before  seen.  I  was 
struck  with  his  appearance.  He  was  small  of  stature, 
pale,  thin,  and  sober — rather  pensive — and  thoughtful 
looking.     I  exchanged  a  few  commonplace  remarks  with 


A  MEMORABLE  INTERVIEW.  333 

him,  and  then  asked  him  to  go  with  me  and  have  a  little 
conversation.  He  went,  and  I  spent  some  time  with  him, 
endeavouring  to  learn  as  much  as  I  could  with  propriety 
of  his  early  history,  present  circumstances  and  state  of 
mind.  I  found  that  he  had  recently  arrived  from  California, 
and  that  he  was  from  the  United  States  of  America — Boston, 
I  think,  was  his  native  city.  He  had  been  brought  up 
among  Unitarians,  and  his  notions  on  the  subject  of  re- 
ligion were  exceedingly  vague.  I  forget  whether  I  put 
a  book  into  his  hand  or  not,  but  it  is  altogether  probable 
I  did.  However,  from  this  time  I  had  a  hold  upon  him. 
As  regularly  as  the  Sabbath  came  round,  he  was  in  his 
place  at  the  English  service;  his  attention  was  arrested, 
his  interest  awakened ;  light  gradually  shone  into  his  mind, 
and  the  truth  of  God  took  hold  of  his  heart.  At  this  time 
he  was  in  the  employ  of  a  man  who  was  very  unscrupulous 
in  liis  business  transactions,  and  this  became  a  difficulty 
with  our  young  friend,  and  was  perhaps  the  chief  reason 
why  he  left  his  employ.  After  a  while  he  removed  to 
Tutuila,  and  was  employed  in  some  agency  business  for  a 
time  at  Pangopango,  and  during  his  stay  there,  aided  by 
the  kind  attentions  of  Mr  Powell,  he  became  decided,  and 
made  a  public  profession  of  his  faith  in  Christ.  In  a  short 
time  he  returned  to  Apia — now  a  decided  Christian — and 
his  taking  charge  of  our  school  followed  soon  after. 

After  terminating  his  connection  with  the  school  he 
went  to  Australia,  but  not  finding  congenial  employment 
there,  after  a  short  stay  he  returned  to  Samoa  in  the  "  John 
"Williams."  His  next  move  was  homewards.  He  went  via 
Valparaiso,  and  during  his  progress  to  the  United  States 
he  met  with  trials,  difficulties,  and  dangers,  great  and 
many,  but  God  preserved  him  amid  all,  and  took  him 
safely  to  his  home.  In  succeeding  years  he  had  many  ups 
and  downs,  but,  amid  all,  he  held  fast  the  beginning  of  his 
confidence,  and  sought  to  glorify  his  Saviour,  and  promote 


334  COURSE  OF  MR  STEARNS. 

the  best  interests  of  his  fellow-men.  Throughout  the 
whole  of  his  chequered  career  he  continued  to  coiTespond 
with  me  at  not  very  distant  intervals,  and  sent  me 
regularly  for  many  years  missionary  periodicals,  and 
occasionally  newsjDapers.  Thus  my  connection  with  my 
friend  was  kept  up  till  within  about  two  years,  when  there 
was  a  sudden  interruption,  for  what  reason  I  know  not. 
I  suspect  he  has  finished  his  course  and  gone  to  his  home. 
Since  leaving  Samoa  towards  the  close  of  1870,  I  have 
neither  heard  of  him  nor  from  him. 

I  have,  of  course,  watched  his  career  with  deep  interest, 
and  have  rejoiced  to  observe  that,  notwitlistanding  a  ten- 
dency to  something  like  fickleness  and  instability,  he  held 
on,  as  long  as  I  could  trace  him,  to  the  hope  sure  and 
steadfast.  He  took  part  in  the  "  Christian  Commission," 
as  it  was  called,  during  the  American  War,  and  throughout 
his  whole  course  he  appears  to  have  been  ready  for  every 
good  work.  It  would  be  a  high  gratification  to  me  to  be 
able  to  trace  his  course  to  the  end,  or,  if  that  is  not  ended, 
to  obtain  information  respecting  him.  This  I  may  yet  be 
able  to  do.* 

During  the  time  Mr  Stearns  was  with  us  we  had  another 
hopeful  conversion,  wdiich,  though  much  less  satisfactory 
and  interesting  than  his,  may  be  mentioned.  A  man, 
named  Eobinson,  also  from  the  United  States,  came  from 
California  to  Samoa.  On  his  way  he  remained  some 
months  at  Tahiti.  Down  to  the  time  of  his  leaving  Tahiti 
he  was  utterly  godless — so  much  so,  that  he  never  entered 

*  Shortly  after  the  above  was  written,  I  received  a  long  letter  from 
my  friend.  The  reason  of  his  not  having  written,  or  in  any  way  com- 
municated with  me  for  some  time,  was  that  his  views  on  some  important 
points  of  theology  had  undergone  a  change.  He  writes  with  all  the 
warmth  and  kindness  and  frankness  of  bygone  days,  and  though  he  has 
taken  up  notions  with  which  1  have  no  sympathy,  I  rejoice  in  the  evidence 
which  his  letter  supplies  that  he  is  still  clinging  to  the  one  Name  given 
under  heaven  among  men  by  which  we  must  be  saved. 


HOPEFUL  CONVERSION  OF  A   WAYFARER.     335 

{I  place  of  worship  during  liis  stay  on  tlie  island.  When 
he  reached  Samoa  he  was  in  failing  health.  Soon  after 
his  arrival  his  attention  was  arrested,  and  his  mind  directed 
to  spiritual  things.  He  was  spared  for  many  weeks, 
during  which  he  advanced  steadily  in  knowledge,  and 
seemed  glowingly  to  feel  the  power  of  Christian  truth. 

I  visited  him  frequently,  and  always  found  him  ready 
to  converse  about,  and  give  his  earnest  attention  to,  spiritual 
things.  He  sought  advice  as  to  how  he  could  best  dispose 
of  a  little  property  of  which  he  was  possessed.  He  wished 
to  leave  it  to  local  objects.  The  result  was,  that  one-half 
was  left  to  our  English  school,  and  the  other  was  to  be 
expended  in  the  j)urchase  of  Bibles  and  religious  books, 
to  be  given  or  lent  to  foreign  residents  or  visitors,  at  the 
discretion  of  the  resident  missionary.  When  he  became 
too  weak  to  live  alone,  he  gave  up  the  cottage  he  had 
occupied,  and  went  to  his  countryman  Mr  Stearns,  and 
remained  in  the  same  house  mth  him  as  long  as  he  lived. 
]iy  Mr  Stearns  he  was  most  kindy  tended  and  cared  for 
during  his  remaining  days,  and  from  him  I  obtained 
cheering  tidings  respecting  his  state  of  mind.  As  he  drew 
near  the  closing  scene  he  appeared  to  grow  m  meetness 
for  the  change  awaiting  him  ;  and  when  it  came,  he  passed 
peacefully  away,  leaving  in  the  mind  of  his  kind  attendant 
the  conviction  that  he  had  gone  to  be  with  Christ. 

The  assiduity  and  kindness  with  wdiich  Mr  Stearns 
tended  and  cared  for  his  sick  and  dying  friend  was  a 
pleasing  confirmation  of  the  reality  of  the  change  which 
had  recently  passed  upon  himself,  and  a  beautiful  illus- 
tration of  the  nature  and  power  of  Christianity.  The 
two  wanderers  landed  upon  our  shores  a  few  months 
before,  strangers  to  each  other  and  utter  strangers  to 
religion,  and  with  scarcely  a  care  or  a  thought  beyond 
the  present  life  and  their  own  individual  concerns.  How 
great  and  happy  the  change  that  took  place  upon  both, 


336  ANOTHER  HOPEFUL  CONVERSION. 

unci  under  what  different  circumstances  would  the  poor 
wayfarer,  Kobinson,  have  ended  his  days,  had  he  not  found 
in  Samoa  those  who  felt  it  a  duty  and  a  privilege  to  direct 
him  to  the  Saviour,  and  to  minister  to  his  necessities ! 

About  this  time,  October  1858,  we  had  another  case 
of  hopeful  conversion  which  merits  notice.  It  differed 
widely   in   many   respects   from   those  just   referred   to. 

Y 1    was   one   of   our   oldest   settlers.      He   was   an 

Englishman — a  native  of  London,  I  think.  He  was  rather 
a  superior  man,  pretty  well  educated  and  informed,  and 
something  of  an  artist.  He  was  superior  to  tlie  generality 
of  the  early  settlers,  and  was  looked  up  to  by  most  of 
them  as  a  leader.  At  one  time  he  and  his  fellows  set 
up  a  government  among  themselves.  A  code  of  laws  was 
drawn  up,  rules  of  government  prepared,  and  an  executive 
chosen,  of  which  Y.  was  elected  president !  This  might 
all  have  been  harmless  enough,  but  the  president  and 
others  of  the  ofl&cial  staff  were  notoriously  godless,  and 
for  a  time  they  set  themselves  against  us,  and  occasioned 
considerable  trouble ;  and  as  Y.  was  chief  of  the  mimic 
State,  and  chief  also  in  his  hostility  to  us,  he  succeeded 
in  throwing  considerable  difficulties  in  our  way. 

By-and-by  he  was  brought  into  difficulty  himself.  A 
calamity  overtook  him  which  stripped  him  of  his  earthly 
all.  His  house,  with  all  it  contained,  was  burned,  and 
he  and  his  wife  and  family  escaped  with  only  the  clothes 
they  w^ore.  (He  had  been  married  to  a  native  many 
years,  and  had  a  large  family.)  Wliat  effect  this  had 
in  producing  the  change  which  followed,  it  is  impossible 
to  say.  He  had  been  thoughtful  for  some  time  before. 
Whilst  attending  another  of  our  old  settlers,  during  an 
illness  which  ended  in  death,  I  came  frequently  in 
contact  with  Y.,  who  was  an  intimate  friend  of  the  sick 
man,  and  w^aited  upon  him  during  the  whole  of  his  illness. 
He  was  generally  present  during  my  visits  to  his  sick 


ADVANCEMENT  AND  PEACEFUL  END.        337 

friend,  and  appeared  to  listen  with  interest  to  our  con- 
versations, and  join  in  prayers  that  were  offered,  and 
from  the  time  of  his  friend's  death  there  was  a  visible 
change  in  his  behaviour  towards  me.  He  became  softened 
and  respectful,  which  he  had  not  always  been,  and  lie 
became  a  regular  attendant  upon  our  English  services, 
and  with  these  he  was  sometimes  much  affected.  Then 
came  the  crushing  blow  which  in  an  hour  reduced 
him  to  utter  destitution,  and  then,  I  think,  if  not 
before,  he  began  in  good  earnest  to  seek  a  treasure  in 
heaven. 

I  saw  him  soon  after  the  fire,  and  talked  with  him  in  a 
little  hut,  with  the  blackened  remains  of  his  house  and 
property  before  us,  and  was  pleased  to  find  him  bearing  up 
nobly.  His  conduct  contrasted  strikingly  with  that  of  a 
neighbour,  a  miserable  old  man,  who,  though  he  had  a 
large  amount  of  property  left,  wept  like  a  child  over  what 
was  gone.  God  raised  up  friends  for  Y.,  and  he  and  his 
family  were  not  suffered  to  want.  From  this  time  till  his 
death,  which  occurred  in  September  1860,  he  was  a  different 
man  to  what  he  had  been — a  nevj  man,  I  trust.  The  illness 
of  which  he  died  was  of  short  duration.  Soon  after  its 
commencement  I  was  called  to  leave  home,  so  I  had  not 
the  satisfaction  of  seeing  him  during  his  last  days.  I 
visited  him  on  the  day  before  I  left,  and  conversed  and 
prayed  with  him,  little  thinking  that  I  should  see  him  no 
more  in  this  world.  A  kind  brother,  Mr  Powell  from 
Tutuila,  was  at  Apia  at  the  time,  and  well  supj^lied  my 
lack  of  service.  He  was  satisfied  that  our  friend  died  in 
the  Lord ;  and  from  all  that  I  knew  of  the  case,  I  think 
there  is  much  reason  to  concur  in  that  opinion ;  and  if  so, 
what  an  encouragement  does  his  case  afford  to  despair  of 
none,  and  to  use  every  available  means  to  reach  all  to  whom 
we  have  access  !  If  I  had  been  asked  at  one  time  to  name 
the  party  in  our  community  whom  I  thought  least  likely 

Y 


33S     SECOND  REVISION  OF  THE  S A  MO  AN  BIBLE. 

to  be  brought  under  the  influence  of  the  gospel,  Y.  would 
have  been  among  the  first  I  should  have  thought  of ;  yet  he 
was  hopefully  converted,  while  others  who  seemed  at  times 
to  be  near  the  kingdom  of  heaven,  stopped  short,  and  never 
got  beyond  being  "  almost  persuaded." 

During  the  year  1859  revision  work  again  demanded  a 
share  of  time  and  attention.  It  had  been  arranged  some- 
time before  that  the  entire  Bil)le  should  undergo  another 
revision,  prior  to  an  application  being  made  to  the  British 
and  Foreign  Bible  Society  to  print  an  edition.  The 
brethren  Nisbet  and  Pratt,  both  of  whom  were  at  the  time 
stationed  on  Savaii,  and  so  were  conveniently  situated  for 
the  accomplishment  of  the  object,  w^ere  appointed  to  under- 
take the  task,  and,  moreover,  Mr  Pratt  had  expended  a  great 
deal  of  labour  in  collecting  material  for  improving  the  trans- 
lation. They  were  to  sit  alone  upon  all  the  more  simple 
books,  Dr  Turner  and  myself  being  referees  in  cases  in 
which  they  differed  in  opinion ;  and  we  w^ere  to  take  it  in 
turn  to  sit  with  them  on  the  more  difficult  parts,  all  of 
wdiich  arrangements  were  carried  into  effect. 

Nothing  out  of  the  usual  course  occurred  during  the 
early  months  of  this  year.  All  went  on  hopefully,  and  in 
the  month  of  May,  when  our  missionary  meetings  were  held, 
and  account  taken  of  the  contributions  for  the  support  of 
the  native  pastors,  we  had  from  the  two  districts — Apia 
and  Saluafata — for  the  London  Missionary  Society,  £104, 
and  for  home  £161. 

The  amount  raised  throughout  the  mission  this  year  was 
larger  than  it  had  ever  been  before.  In  aid  of  the  London 
Missionary  Society  we  had  £610,  9s.  4d.,  and  over  a 
thousand  gallons  of  cocoa-nut  oil,  worth,  say,  £60.  Sales 
of  books  realised  £330,  15s.  8d.  The  exact  amount  raised 
for  the  support  of  teachers  I  am  unable  to  give  ;  but  if  at 
one  station  we  had  £161,  we  shall  be  quite  safe  in  putting 
the  amount  raised  at  all  the  stations  at  £500 ;  so  that 


LOCATION  OF  MISSIONARIES  ON  LIFU.        339 

upwards  of  £1500  had  been  contributed  to,  or  expended 
in  connection  with,  the  cause  of  God. 

On  the  27th  of  September  of  this  year,  1859,  the  "  John 
Williams"  sailed  on  another  of  her  missionary  voyages, 
Dr  Turner  going  as  our  deputation.  At  length  missionaries 
had  arrived  for  Lifu,  and  on  this  occasion  Messrs  M'Farlane 
and  Baker  were  conveyed  to  that  interesting  field,  and 
introduced  to  their  respective  stations,  under  circumstances 
of  deep  interest  and  high  promise.  In  closing  his  report 
of  the  voyage,  which  was  not  less  encouraging  than  those 
that  had  preceded  it,  Dr  Turner  writes  : — 

"  In  summing  uj^  our  progress  in  these  islands  just 
visited,  where  twenty  years  ago  we  had  not  a  single  white 
missionary  or  a  single  convert  from  heathenism,  and  at  the 
very  entrance  to  which  John  Williams  fell,  we  find  that 
out  of  a  population  of  about  G5,500  souls,  we  have  19,743 
who  have  renounced  heathenism,  and  are  professedly  Chris- 
tian. Of  these,  there  are  645  Church  members,  and  689 
who  are  candidates  for  admission  to  the  Church.  And 
there  are  now  labouring  among  them  ten  European  mis- 
sionaries, and  231  native  teachers  and  assistants.  Three 
printing-presses  are  also  at  work,  specially  devoted  to  the 
Papuan  vernacular  of  the  respective  islands." 

The  close  of  this  year  brought  us  again  to  the  time  when 
the  "  John  Williams  "  must,  according  to  the  arrangements 
of  those  days,  proceed  to  England.  Connected  with  this 
voyage  there  were  circumstances  of  peculiar  interest.  In 
addition  to  the  passengers  who  went  from  our  own  and 
other  groups,  one  of  whom,  alas !  ]\Irs  Stallworthy,  was  a 
widow  with  eight  children,  the  "  John  Williams  "  took  oui' 
Samoan  Bible,  a  second  thorough  revision  of  which  had  been 
completed,  in  order  to  get  an  edition  printed  in  England. 
It  was  sent  in  charge  of  Dr  Turner,  who  with  his  family 
was  about  to  visit  England.  Dr  Turner  was  commissioned, 
in  addition  to  superintending  the  printing  of  the  work,  to 


340     THE  ''JOHN  WILLIAMS"  GOES  TO  ENGLAND. 

undertake  a  very  onerous  task,  viz.,  to  supply  Marginal 
References  after  the  plan  of  the  authorised  English  version. 
This  important  work  was  successfully  accomplished  by  our 
brother,  and  added  not  a  little  to  the  value  of  our  beauti- 
ful Bible — for  such  indeed  it  was.  The  Bible  Society  did 
their  part  to  our  entire  satisfaction;  and  the  accuracy 
which  was  attained  reflected  the  highest  credit  on  Dr 
Turner  and  liis  estimable  wife,  who  lent  him  very  effective 
help  throughout  the  whole  work. 

Other  passengers  by  the  "  John  Williams "  on  this 
occasion  were  the  Eev.  John  Inglis  of  Aneiteum  and  Mrs 
Inglis.  Mr  Inglis  had  a  charge  and  a  commission  similar 
to  that  of  Dr  Turner.  He  had  a  translation  of  the  New 
Testament  in  the  Aneiteum  language — the  joint  work  of 
himself  and  Dr  Geddie — partly  in  print  and  partly  in 
manuscript,  which  he  was  taking  to  England  to  get 
printed  by  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society. 

The  vessel  arrived  from  her  westward  voyage,  i.e.,  from 
her  visit  to  the  New  Hebrides,  Loyalty  Islands  and 
Nine,  on  the  17th  of  December,  and  on  the  9th  of  January 
1860  she  took  her  departure  for  her  distant  port. 


(  341   ) 


CHAPTER  XLII. 

THE  ENGLISH  CHAPEL — VISIT  TO  THE  FALEALILI  DISTRICT — CANDIDATES — 
SCHOOLS,  ETC.  —  KEFLECTIONS — VISIT  TO  SALUAFATA  —  PKOCEEDINGS 
THERE — ARRIVAL  OF   MR   AND   MRS   DRUMMOND — MISSIONARY  MEETINGS 

AT  APIA,   SALUAFATA,  AND  FANGALOA — CONTRIBUTIONS ANOTHER  VISIT 

TO  SALUAFATA    AND   FANGALOA — DESCKIPTION   OF   FANGALOA — OUR  OWN 
CIRCUMSTANCES. 

At  the  commencement  of  this  year  a  matter  of  mucli 
interest  occupied  our  attention.  The  resort  of  shipping 
to  the  harbour  of  Apia,  and  the  increase  of  foreign  settlers, 
rendered  it  desirable,  a  few  years  after  the  commencement 
of  the  mission,  that  a  place  of  worship  should  be  built 
in  which  English  service  should  be  regularly  conducted. 
Accordingly  steps  were  taken  towards  securing  this  object 
as  early  as  1846.  Money  was  raised  towards  it  on  the 
spot  by  foreign  residents,  and  by  contributions  from 
visitors ;  and  in  1847,  Mr  Mills,  duruig  his  visit  to 
England,  made  an  application  to  the  British  and  Foreign 
Sailors'  Society,  and  from  that  and  private  friends  he 
obtained  help  which,  with  the  local  contributions,  enabled 
him  to  procure  an  iron  chapel,  which  he  brought  with 
him  on  his  return  in  the  "John  Williams"  in  1848. 
The  "John  Williams"  reached  Samoa  in  May  of  that 
year.  The  chapel  was  soon  put  together,  and  opened  for 
Divine  service,  and,  from  that  time  onward,  English 
service  was  regularly  held  in  it,  except  when  the 
missionary  was  absent  or   ill,  and  unable  to  procure  a 


342       REBUILDING  OF  THE  ENGLISH  CHAPEL. 

supply.  All  credit  was  due  to  Mr  Mills  for  liis  zealous 
and  persevering  efforts,  and  to  those  who  assisted  him 
in  procuring  the  chapel.  But  for  their  exertions  we 
should  have  found  ourselves  in  a  very  different  position 
to  that  in  which  we  were  at  the  time  to  which  we  now 
refer. 

At  the  time  when  the  chapel  was  erected  an  eligible  site 
could  not  be  obtained  ;  the  building,  moreover,  was  not 
well  suited  to  the  climate,  and,  owing  to  various  causes,  it 
was  becoming  increasingly  uncomfortable.  And  now  the 
time  seemed  to  have  come  to  make  an  effort  to  procure  a 
better  site,  and  to  make  various  alterations  and  improve- 
ments in  the  building,  so  as  to  get  rid  of  the  inconveni- 
ences, and  adapt  it  to  the  altered  state  of  things  ;  and  at  a 
meeting  of  the  School  Committee,  as  it  was  called — that 
is,  the  Committee  for  managing  the  affairs  of  the  English 
school,  of  which  the  leading  men  of  our  community  were 
members — held  on  the  10th  of  January  1860,  the  subject 
was  considered,  and  it  was  determined  to  set  about  the 
accomplishment  of  the  object  at  once.  No  time  was  lost. 
By  about  noon  on  the  following  day  four  hundred  dollars 
were  raised  towards  the  object,  and  what  was  needed  be- 
yond that  sum  was  obtained  without  difficulty.  The  hearti- 
ness and  promptitude  with  which  the  thing  was  taken  u]> 
and  gone  about  was  most  cheering.  The  work  was  com- 
menced on  the  last  day  of  January,  and  towards  the  close 
of  March  it  was  completed. 

A  very  eligible  site  was  obtained  near  the  centre  of  the 
bay.  The  roof,  which  originally  was  nearly  flat,  was  raised 
to  within  a  little  of  the  ordinary  pitch  of  roofs,  and  lined 
with  timber,  which  was  a  vast  improvement  both  as  regards 
comfort  and  appearance.  New  seats  were  procured ;  a  new 
pulpit  was  supplied;  and  various  other  improvements  made. 
The  length  of  the  house  was  forty  feet,  and  the  breadth  twenty, 
so  there  was  ample  accommodation,  not  only  for  our  ordinary, 


A  MISSIONARY  TOUR.  343 

but  for  our  extraordinary  congregations.  A  school  house 
was  erected  close  by,  and  the  whole  was  enclosed  in  a  neat 
fence.  The  amount  of  money  expended  was  £120  ;  and 
some  of  the  members  of  our  community  gave,  in  addition 
to  money,  materials  and  also  time  and  labour. 

While  the  work  of  removing  and  rebuilding  the  cl  apel 
was  in  progress,  I  visited  the  large  districts  of  Falealili 
and  Aleipata  on  Upolu,  which,  at  the  time,  owing  to  late 
changes,  were  without  missionary  superintendence.  These 
districts,  and  also  a  third,  Safata,  had  for  several  years  been 
under  the  care  of  Mr  Stallworthy,  till  he  was  moved  to 
Malua.  I  left  home  on  my  rather  long  journey  on  the  31st 
of  January,  and  was  absent  till  the  21st  of  February.  A 
few  days,  including  a  Sabbath,  were  spent  in  the  Saluafata 
district,  on  my  way  home. 

My  tour  was  interesting.  ]\ly  work  consisted  in  holding 
meetings  and  conferences  with  the  teachers,  conversing 
with  candidates,  holding  Church  meetings,  examining 
schools,  preacliing,  and  kindred  engagements.  It  was 
cheering  to  find  everywhere  indications  of  progress.  I 
visited  five  central  points,  at  each  of  which  the  adults  and 
children  came  together  from  the  neighbouring  villages,  and 
from  which  visits  were  made  to  some  of  the  leading  vil- 
lages at  convenient  distances. 

Our  services  and  engagements  were  occasions  of  great 
interest,  delightfully  congenial  to  me,  and  apparently  much 
enjoyed  by  the  teachers  and  people,  whose  kindness  and 
liberality  to  me  and  my  boat's  crew  were  manifested  in  the 
most  hearty  manner.  I  conversed  with  234  candidates  for 
admission  to  the  churches,  and  out  of  these  we  selected 
145  to  be  admitted  by  the  teachers,  after  a  further  short 
probation,  should  all  continue  satisfactory. 

My  first  Sabbath  was  spent  at  Sapunaoa,  where  Mr 
Stallworthy  had  resided.  I  trust  the  time  spent  there  was 
profitable  both  to  me  and  to  the  people;  but  there  was 


344  AFFECTING  CHANGES. 

niucli  in  the  circumstances  fitted  to  induce  feelings  of  sad- 
ness. How  changed  was  all  since  my  last  visit,  and  in  how 
short  a  time  had  the  changes  occurred  '  Scarcely  twelve 
months  had  passed  since  Mr  Stallworthy  had  moved  to  his 
new  sphere  of  labour,  and  now  his  course  was  finished  ;  his 
wife  was  a  widow,  and  his  children  fatherless,  and  being 
borne  away  from  the  home  of  their  childhood  to  see  it  no 
more.  The  house  which  the  Kttle  ones  used  to  fill  with 
glee  was  silent  now;  around,  the  bush  was  gaining  the 
mastery,  and  everything  wore  an  air  of  melancholy.  I 
slept  in  the  little  sanchiin  which  the  venerable  patriarch, 
Wilson,  occupied,  and  mused  mucli  on  the  past,  and  found 
it  soothing  and  relieving  to  think  of  the  land  of  reunion, 
where  broken  links  shall  be  re-knit,  and  all  the  scattered 
members  of  the  great  family  regathered  to  be  scattered  no 
more. 

The  only  thing  that  seemed  unchanged  was  the  little 
(jraveyard  in  front  of  the  mission-house,  where  Mr  and  Mrs 
Wilson,  and  the  first  Mrs  Stallworthy,  and  another  worthy 
member  of  our  mission — Mrs  Schmidt — sleep.  The  stones 
which  mark  their  respective  resting-places,  and  the  fence 
which  enclosed  them,  had  not  yet  been  much  affected  by 
time  and  climate,  though  they  too  would  soon  show  symp- 
ttmis  of  decay.     Blessed  be  God — 

"  For  the  land  of  the  uiulyiiiL,% 
On  wliicli  no  blight  nor  curse  is  lying, 
Where  all  is  holiness, 
And  everlasting  peace."  * 

On  my  return  home  I  found  all  going  on  as  when  I 
left.  The  work  of  the  chapel  was  proceeding  apace,  and  on 
the  25th  of  March  we  were  able  to  have  service  in  it.  On 
that  day  I  preached  from  Revelations  xxii.  17,  and  fervent 
were  my  desires,  and  those  of  others  of  my  fellow- worship- 

*  Bonar's  "Hymns  of  Faith  and  Ho2>e."     Second  Series,  p.  196. 


PROGRESS  AMONG  THE  NATIVES.  345 

pers,  that  our  renewed  cliapel  might  prove  to  us  a  Bethel 
indeed,  and  that  at  the  great  day  of  revelations  it  might  be 
said  of  very  many  "  that  this  and  that  man  was  horn  in 
her,"  and  "  that  the  Highest  Himself  might  establish  her." 

Among  the  natives  we  continued  to  have  cheering  indi- 
cations of  progress.  The  number  of  candidates  and  Chui-ch 
members  was  steadily  increasing,  and  the  state  of  things 
altogether  wore  a  healthy  aspect. 

In  the  middle  of  April  I  made  a  visit  to  Saluafata,  and 
was  cheered  by  symptoms  of  a  revived  state  of  things  in 
that  district.  Thirty-two  members  were  admitted  to  the 
Church  during  this  visit,  and  seventeen  proposed. 

Tlie  next  noticeable  occurrence  which  took  place  was  an 
event  of  much  interest,  especially  in  the  then  weakened 
state  of  the  mission — the  return  of  an  old  and  much- 
esteemed  fellow-labourer,  accompanied  by  a  young  brother. 
On  the  30th  of  April  Mr  Drummond,  who  had  been  to 
England  on  a  visit,  returned  recruited  in  health,  and 
accompanied  by  a  lady,  who  lent  him  very  effective  aid 
during  the  remaining  years  of  his  missionary  life ;  and 
along  with  Mr  Drummond  were  a  young  couple,  Mr  and 
Mrs  Gee,  whom  we  were  also  glad  to  welcome  to  our  field 
of  labour. 

Mr  and  Mrs  Drummond  were  appointed  to  occupy  the 
vacant  station  at  Falealili,  and  Mr  and  Mrs  Gee  took  charge 
of  the  station  on  Savaii  lately  occupied  by  Mr  Nisbet,  who 
had  moved  to  Malua  after  the  death  of  Mr  Stallworthy. 
The  improved  state  of  things  in  my  own  sphere  showed 
itself  this  year  in  the  increased  liberality  of  the  people.. 
For  some  time  past  I  had  thought  that  by  the  adoption  of 
more  system  and  method  in  the  mode  of  raising  our  contri- 
butions, a  larger  amount  might  be  collected  than  had 
hitherto  been;  but  that  alone  will  not  account  for  the 
great  increase  we  had  this  year. 

Our  meetmgs  at  Apia  were  held  on  the  2d  of  May,  and 


346  GREA  TL  Y  INCREASED  LIBERALITY. 

the  amount  raised  for  the  London  Missionary  Society  was 
£135,  and  for  home  over  £100.  The  meetings  in  the 
Saluafata  district  were  held  towards  the  close  of  May. 
The  services  were  interesting  and  fruitful.  The  united 
contributions  of  the  two  districts  amounted  to  a  little  over 
£200  for  the  London  Missionary  Society,  and  for  the 
support  of  native  pastors  a  like  sum ;  so  that  over  £400 
was  raised  for  home  and  abroad. 

About  the  middle  of  July,  I  spent  a  few  pleasant  days 
in  the  Saluafata  district.  There  were  encouraging  symptoms 
in  the  smaller  villages.  Large  congregations  assembled,  and 
numbers  professed  attachment  to  the  Saviour,  and  were 
seeking  admission  to  the  Church.  Out  of  those  with  whom 
I  conversed,  eighteen  were  selected,  and  proposed  for 
admission,  and  thirty- two,  who  had  been  proposed  on  a 
former  visit,  were  now  received.  One  part  of  the  district, 
the  most  distant,  to  which  I  have  not  yet  introduced  the 
reader,  was  in  a  very  backward  state.  It  consists  of  a  bay 
about  seven  or  eight  miles  deep,  and  from  two  to  three 
miles  in  breadth.  It  is  named  Fangaloa  (long  or  deep  bay), 
and  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable-looking  places  on  Upolu. 
It  is  surrounded  by  steep  and  lofty  mountains,  rising  to  a 
height  of  some  1800  feet  or  more ;  and  on  one  side,  at  a 
short  distance,  is  a  mountain  named  Matafao,  which  rises 
to  the  height  of  2300  feet.  It  is  the  highest  mountain  on 
Upolu.  The  mountains  are  clothed  to  their  summits  with 
large  wood,  interspersed  with  cultivated  patches,  and,  like 
other  parts  of  the  group,  exhibit  unceasingly  all  the  year 
round  the  blended  beauties  of  spring,  summer,  and  autumn. 
On  one  side  of  the  bay  there  are  no  less  than  three  water- 
falls, which,  descending  like  streams  of  liquid  silver  through 
the  bright-green  foliage,  look  very  beautiful.  And  there 
are  small  bays  within  the  main  one,  in  which  the  villages 
of  the  natives  are  embosomed,  surrounded  by  bread-fruit 
groves,   and   shaded  by   lofty    cocoa-nuts,   bending   their 


DESCRIPTION  OF  FANGALOA.  347 

fcatliery  tops  in  graceful  beauty  over  tlie  scene.  There  are 
five  of  these  small  bays  within  the  large  one,  and  two  out- 
side, one  of  which  is  double,  and  has  in  it  two  hamlets ;  so 
the  villages  of  Fangaloa  are  reckoned  eight.  The  bay,  on 
the  whole,  is  one  of  the  grandest  and  most  picturesque 
spots  on  Upolu,  but  it  is  open  to  the  sea,  and  there  is 
nothing  to  break  the  force  of  the  waves,  which  roll  in  often 
in  large  volume  from  the  ocean  before  the  prevailing 
trade  winds.  Moreover,  the  holding  ground  is  bad,  so 
vessels  cannot  anchor  with  safety.  There  is  a  beautiful 
reef  inside,  which  extends  all  round  close  to  the  shore,  and 
protects  the  villages  from  the  incursions  of  the  sea,  and 
adds  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  scene. 

At  this  time  the  state  of  the  people  formed  a  contrast 
rather  than  a  counterpart  to  the  beauty  of  the  heritage 
which  God  in  His  providence  had  assigned  them.  Fan- 
galoa  had  been  the  headquarters  of  the  sca-forccs  of  the 
district  to  which  it  belongs  from  of  old ;  hence  in  times  of 
war  it  generally  came  in  for  its  full  share  of  the  evils  and 
calamities  which  follow  in  the  train  of  that  hateful  scourge. 
And  in  this  respect  the  late  war  had  been  no  exception  to 
the  general  rule.  Hence,  w^hen  the  station  came  under  my 
care,  I  found  tilings  in  a  very  low  state.  They  soon  began 
to  revive  a  little,  however.  During  the  present  visit,  I 
found  among  the  candidates  only  two  who  appeared  eligible 
for  admission  to  the  Church ;  but  my  visits  were  always 
well  received,  and  the  people  were  w^illing,  and  many  of 
them  interested  listeners  to  the  Divine  message ;  and 
there  was  soon,  by  the  blessing  of  God  on  the  means 
employed,  a  considerable  change  for  the  better. 

Towards  the  close  of  this  year  an  important  and  very 
agreeable  change  took  place  in  my  personal  circumstances. 
The  intelligence  I  had  been  receiving  from  Sydney  from 
time  to  time  was  of  such  a  character  as  to  make  it  exceed- 
ingly difficult  to  decide  as  to  the  path  of  duty.      Our 


348      CHANGE  IN  PERSONAL  CIRCUMSTANCES. 

hearts  were  in  Samoa ;  my  labours  seemed  to  be  required 
there  at  the  time  (I  do  not  forget  that  the  Master  is  in 
no  way  dependent  upon  any  of  His  instruments,  but  I 
speak  as  looking  at  the  thing  from  a  human  point  of 
view) ;  I  was  very  happy  in  my  work,  and  God  appeared 
to  be  smiling  upon  it ;  but  there  was  the  old  difficulty — 
health.  Thus  we  were  in  a  painful  strait,  and,  with 
a  view  to  having  the  matter  brought  to  a  point,  I  had 
proposed  to  Mrs  Murray,  that  if  there  seemed  any  likeli- 
hood of  her  being  able  to  stand  the  climate  of  Samoa, 
after  her  long  residence  in  Sydney,  she  should  return 
and  give  it  one  more  trial.  And  now,  at  the  close  of 
October,  I  had  the  happiness  of  welcoming  her  return. 
The  committee  of  management  of  the  missions  of. the 
Wesleyan  body  in  Sydney  kindly  gave  her  a  passage 
in  their  mission  ship  the  "  John  Wesley,"  and  on  the 
31st  of  October  she  reached  Samoa. 

It  was  two  years  and  nine  months  since  her  departure, 
and  two  years  and  a  half  since  I  left  her  in  Sydney,  so 
she  had  had  a  long  change,  and  the  consequence  was 
that,  by  the  blessing  of  God,  her  health  was  much 
improved ;  but  past  experience  forbade  our  being  sanguine 
with  reference  to  the  future.  We  rejoiced  to  be  per- 
mitted once  more  to  resume  our  much-loved  work  to- 
gether, but  our  joy  was  mingled  with  forebodings.  We 
rejoiced  with  trembling. 


(  349  ) 


CHAPTER  XLIII. 

rnospECTS  again  darkened — a  week-service  in  English — special  ser- 
vices THROUGHOUT  THE  MISSION — MISSIONARY  MEETINGS  AND  CONTRI- 
BUTIONS   FOR    HOME     AND  ABROAD  FOR  1861 REMARKABLE  CONVERSION 

OF  ONE  OF  OUR  FOREIGN  SETTLERS — TWENTY-FIFTH  ANNIVERSARY  OF 
ODR  ARRIVAL  IN  SAMOA — ENCOURAGEMENT  AMONG  THE  FOREIGN  COM- 
MUNITY  RETURN  OF  THE  "  JOHN  WILLIAMS  "  FROM  ENGLAND — ARRIVAL 

OF  MESSRS    LAWES  AND  BIRD OUR  CASE  DECIDED FAREWELL  SERVICES 

AND  PARTING  SCENES DEPARTURE STATE  OF  THINGS  IN  THE  APIA  AND 

SALUAFATA  DISTRICTS  IN  MAY  1862. 

The  year  1860  closed  upon  us,  and  the  new  year  opened 
with  a  blink  of  sunshine.  It  was  hut  a  blink,  how^ever. 
Our  sky  was  speedily  overcast,  and  months  of  trial  and 
conflict  succeeded,  as  sharp  perhaps  as  any  through  which 
we  had  passed  in  the  mission  field.  It  soon  became 
unmistakably  evident  that  we  must  leave  the  work 
we  so  much  loved;  and  what  made  the  thought  of  this 
so  deeply  painful  was,  that  we  could  not  entertain  the 
hope  of  being  able  to  return. 

About  the  middle  of  this  month,  December  1860,  a 
weekly  English  service  was  commenced  in  addition  to 
that  held  on  Sabbaths.  Many  solemn  and  delightful 
seasons  did  we  enjoy  at  our  week  evening  services.  They 
were  continued  till  the  time  of  our  departure,  and  the 
interest  kept  up  and  increased  to  the  last.  At  the  time 
we  left,  the  attendance  was  nearly  as  large  as  on  Sabbaths, 
and  there  were  very  hopeful  indications  that  the  services 
were  not  in  vain. 


350  SPECIAL  SERVICES— LIBERAL  CONTRIBUTIONS. 

lu  the  last  week  of  December  a  general  meeting  of  the 
members  of  the  mission  was  held,  at  which  the  state  of 
religion  among  our  churches,  and  throughout  the  group, 
was  talked  over,  and  it  was  arranged  that  special  ser\dces 
should  be  held  at  all  our  stations  in  the  first  week  of 
January,  with  a  view  to  bring  about  an  improved  state  of 
things.  Meetings  were  held  accordingly,  and  it  became 
in  Samoa,  as  elsewhere,  an  institution  that  the  first  week 
in  January  of  each  year  should  be  a  time  of  special  prayer 
for  the  prosperity  of  the  work  of  God  throughout  the 
world. 

During  the  early  months  of  this  year  everything  went 
on  encouragingly  throughout  my  own  district.  Our  annual 
missionary  meetings  were  held  as  usual  in  May,  and  the 
contributions,  both  for  home  and  abroad,  reached  a  higher 
figure  than  they  had  ever  done  before.  For  the  London 
Missionary  Society  we  had  from  the  two  districts — Apia 
and  Saluafata— £1^24,  2s.  3d.,  and  for  home  £203,  13s. 

Soon  after  the  missionary  meetings  we  were  cheered  by 
an  occurrence  which  deserves  a  particular  record.  For  a 
length  of  time,  though  there  had  been  much  to  cheer,  and 
much  to  encourage  hope  among  the  foreign  residents, 
there  had  been  no  decided  case  of  conversion.  Now  a 
case  occurred  of  a  very  remarkable  character.  The  cir- 
cumstances were  such  as  effectually  to  hide  pride  from 
man,  and  to  secure  the  undivided  praise  to  Him  to  whom 
belong  "  wonders  of  grace,"  and  who  is  able,  not  only  out 
of  seeming,  but  out  of  real  evil  to  educe  good.  The  case, 
the  particulars  of  which  we  are  about  to  give,  had  its 
origin  in  a  disturbance  which  all  but  led  to  fatal  results ; 
so  that  God  did  literally  make  the  wrath  of  man  to  praise 
Him,  and  restrain  the  remainder  of  wrath. 

The  said  disturbance  took  place  on  the  8th  of  June  of 
the  year  which  we  are  now  reviewing,  1861.  The  prin- 
cipal actor  in  the  affair  was  one  of  our  foreign  settlers — a 


REMARKABLE  CONVERSION.  351 

native  of  tlie  United  States  of  America,  who  had  been  in 
Samoa  for  a  number  of  years.  He  was  a  man  of  energetic 
character;  he  had  had  considerable  educational  advantages, 
and  was  possessed  of  more  than  an  average  share  of  capa- 
city and  intelligence.  Hence  he  was  not  a  man  to  be  a 
cipher.  For  good  or  evil  he  would  make  his  influence 
felt.  Unliappily,  up  till  the  time  of  which  we  now  waite, 
he  had  thrown  himself,  with  all  the  native  energy  of  his 
character,  into  the  service  of  the  devil,  and  he  had  been  a 
decided  and  sometimes  a  violent  opponent  of  all  that 
tended  to  thwart  him  in  his  reckless  course.  Missionaries 
were  the  special  objects  of  his  aversion,  and  often  did  he 
employ  his  tongue  in  holding  up  them  and  their  work  to 
reproach  and  scorn.  This  was  not  to  continue,  however, 
and  the  time  had  now  come  when  an  effectual  arrest  was 
to  be  laid  upon  him.  He  had  for  a  length  of  time  been 
the  keeper  of  a  (jrog-slwp  and  hywling-alley,  of  which  he 
was  part  owner,  and  he  did  not  always  drink  in  modera- 
tion. On  the  day  named  above,  he  had  been  indulging 
freely;  and  in  company  with  another  man,  perhaps  the 
lowest  and  most  infamous  man  in  our  community,  he 
rushed  off  to  a  place  at  a  short  distance  from  his  home,  to 
avenge  an  insult  which  he  supposed  had  been  offered  to  his 
wife.  He  carried  a  loaded  gun.  Proceeding  to  the  place 
where  he  understood  the  supposed  offender  to  be,  he  de- 
manded of  the  gentleman  in  whose  employ  he  was  that 
he  should  be  given  up.  This,  of  course,  was  refused ;  and 
in  his  rage  and  frenzy,  he  fired  off  his  gun  and  wounded  a 
native.  Happily  the  wound  was  not  in  a  vital  part,  but, 
in  as  far  as  he  was  concerned,  it  might  as  well  have  been 
so.  Matters  had  now  reached  a  point  beyond  which  they 
could  not  be  suffered  to  go.  By  some  means  he  was  in- 
duced to  go  home,  and,  when  the  effects  of  the  drink  wore 
off,  and  he  came  to  his  sober  senses,  he  was  smitten  with 
remorse,  and  was  horrified  at  the  idea  of  having  come  so 


352      BROUGHT  TO  DECISION— PEACE  FOUND. 

near  committing  murder.  His  first  impulse  was  to  take  a 
determined  stand  against  the  demon  of  intemperance  ■which 
had  been  the  immediate  cause  of  his  having  so  narrowly 
escaped  incurring  the  guilt  of  murder.  So  he  took  the 
total  abstinence  pledge.  The  gentleman  with  whom  he 
advised  on  that  point  remarked  to  him,  that  merely  taking 
the  pledge  would  not  do  much  for  him ;  meaning  that  unless 
he  sought  help  from  God,  he  would  not  be  able  to  keep  it. 
He  replied  to  the  effect  that  he  had  sought  help.  It  ought 
to  be  mentioned  that  he  had  a  -pious  mother,  whose  prayers 
had  no  doubt  followed  him  through  all  his  wanderings, 
and  recollections  of  whom  had,  we  may  be  sure,  sent  many 
a  pang  of  remorse  through  his  hardened  soul  even  at  his 
worst  times. 

Soon  after  the  above  occurrences  I  saw  and  conversed 
with  him.  He  was  no  longer  shy  of  missionaries.  His 
distress  continued  for  some  time.  I  saw  him  almost,  if 
not  quite,  daily,  while  he  continued  an  anxious  inquirer, 
feeling  his  way  after  peace.  His  burden  pressed  heavily, 
but  ere  a  great  while  "  God's  way  of  peace  "  was  understood 
and  embraced,  and  rest  was  found.  He  was  enabled  to 
come  to  Christ,  and  in  so  doing  he  found  his  case  met  and 
his  burden  gone. 

But  what  of  the  after  effects  ?  "Were  these  such  as  to 
evmce  that  the  persecutor,  the  blasphemer,  and  the  all  but 
murderer,  had  really  undergone  a  saving  change,  and  passed 
over  to  the  ranks  of  those  who  are  washed,  and  sanctified,  and 
justified  in  the  name  of  the  Lord  Jesus,  and  by  the  Spirit 
of  God  ?  Let  the  reader  form  his  own  judgment.  The 
change  which  came  over  him  found  him,  as  we  have  seen, 
the  keeper  and  part  owner  of  a  grog-shop  and  bowling-alley, 
and  one  of  the  first  things  that  pressed  upon  his  conscience 
after  his  change  was  that  he  ouglit  to  give  that  up,  and 
seek  some  mode  of  obtaining  a  living  that  would  free  him 
from  the  guilt  and  responsibility  of  contributing  to  the 


FRUITS  MEET  FOR  REPENTANCE.  353 

ruin,  temporal  and  eternal,  of  liis  fellow-creatures.  But 
there  was  a  serious  difficulty.  In  as  far  as  he  was  indivi- 
dually concerned  the  way  was  clear,  but  he  was  not  sole 
owner  of  the  business  and  premises.  It  was  a  partnership 
concern,  and  his  partner  was  in  Australia  at  the  time.  Of 
course  he  must  act  honestly  and  honourably  towards  him ; 
and  how  was  this  to  be  accomplished  if  the  business  were 
given  up  ?  He  was  in  a  sore  strait,  and  some  time  passed 
— I  think  about  three  weeks — before  he  saw  his  way  out 
of  the  difficulty.  During  that  time  the  business  dragged 
heavily,  his  burden  becoming  more  and  more  intolerable. 
A  well-meaning  but  mistaken  friend  suggested  a  compro- 
mise :  if  his  conscience  would  not  allow  him  to  go  on  with 
his  business,  employ  some  one  else  to  act  for  him.  He  had 
light  enough  and  right  feeling  enough  to  reject  at  once  that 
proposal.  At  length  he  hit  upon  a  plan  which  met  the 
case,  and  afforded  striking  evidence  of  his  sincerity — and, 
perhaps  I  may  add,  strength  and  decision  of  character.  He 
determmed  to  close  the  grog-shop,  and,  in  addition  to  the 
loss  which  he  would  thereby  sustain,  he  would  hold  him- 
self bound  to  indemnify  his  partner  for  his  share  of  the  loss, 
by  paying  him  on  his  return  his  share  of  the  average  profits 
that  would  have  been  realised  during  the  interval  from  the 
time  of  closing  the  concern  till  his  return,  when  he  would 
arrange  to  pass  all  over  into  his  hands.  So  the  gTog-shop 
was  closed,  and  there  it  stood  day  after  day,  bearing  a  silent 
but  most  impressive  testimony  to  the  genuineness  of  the 
change  which  H.  had  undergone.  It  went  far  at  the 
time  towards  stopping  the  mouths  of  gainsayers,  and  con- 
vincing all  that  he  was  in  thorough  earnest.  One  of  his 
former  associates — one,  by  the  way,  who  has  since  come  to 
a  miserable  end  by  persisting  in  a  course  of  intemperance — 
said  to  me,  "  I  know  H. ;  if  he  had  not  been  in  earnest  he 
would  not  have  acted  as  he  has  done." 

H.  now  turned  to  pursuits  which  he  could  foUow  with  a 

z 


354  PERSECUTION  BRA  VEL  Y  BORNE, 

good  conscience ;  God  blessed  and  prospered  him,  and  he 
never  had  occasion  to  regret  having  acted  out  his  conscien- 
tious convictions.  He  was  now  in  all  external  respects  a 
new  man ;  and,  instead  of  being  a  persecutor  and  injurious, 
his  lot  was  cast  in  with  the  people  of  God,  and  in  various 
ways  he  sought  to  advance  the  cause  which  formerly  he 
had  laboured  to  destroy. 

The  change  was  sO  marked,  and  the  evidence  of  its  gen- 
uineness so  clear,  that  all  was  quiet  for  a  time.  By  and 
by,  however,  the  enmity  which,  in  the  case  of  some  of  his 
old  associates,  had  only  been  repressed,  burst  out  into  active 
persecution.  His  premises  were  attacked,  the  fence  which 
enclosed  his  dwelling-house  was  broken  down,  and  the 
house  itself  pressed  upon  by  drunken  scoundrels,  who 
fiercely  assailed  him  with  insulting  and  abusive  language. 
By  judicious  firmness  he  succeeded  in  preventing  his 
assailants  from  entering  the  house.  They  were  induced  to 
desist,  and,  perhaps,  becoming  afraid  of  the  consequences 
to  which  their  violent  conduct  might  lead,  they  ceased 
their  attempts  to  annoy  H.,  and  left  him  to  go  on  his  way 
unmolested.  He  bore  the  trial  bravely,  and  all  redounded 
to  the  glory  of  God,  and  contributed  to  his  steadfastness 
and  fruitfulness. 

An  interesting  cii'cumstance  occurred  soon  after  he  en- 
tered upon  his  new  course.  A  chandelier  had  been  ordered 
from  Sydney  to  light  and  adorn  the  grog-shop,  and,  of 
course,  to  make  it  more  effective  in  alluring  victims  to 
their  ruin.  It  was  rather  a  grand  affair  for  Apia  in  those 
days  ;  but,  when  it  reached  its  destination,  it  was  no  longer 
needed  for  the  purpose  for  which  it  had  been  intended. 
We  were  just  in  want  of  such  a  thing  for  our  chapel,  so 
instead  of  lighting  and  ornamenting  a  gin-palace,  it  was 
transferred  to  the  house  of  God  ;  and  there  testified  to  the 
reality  of  the  change  that  had  lately  startled  our  commu- 
nity. 


DANGER  OF  TEMPORAL  PROSPERITY.  355 

Many  years  liave  passed  since  the  time  of  wliicli  we 
write,  but  till  within  a  recent  period  H.  was  still  identified 
with  the  cause  and  people  of  God.  I  trust  he  will  be 
enabled  to  hold  fast  the  beginning  of  his  confidence  stead- 
fast unto  the  end ;  and  that  the  close  of  his  career  will  be 
in  keeping  with  its  striking  and  hopeful  beginning.  Tem- 
poral prosperity  with  the  favour  and  smiles  of  the  ungodly, 
as  all  experience  proves,  is  much  more  dangerous  to  the 
Christian  than  poverty  and  persecution ;  and  a  pretty 
large  share  of  the  former  has  fallen  to  the  lot  of  H.  of  late 
years.  I  trust,  however,  that  he  will  be  kej)t  steadfast  amid 
all,  and  be  found  at  last  among  the  number  of  those  who, 
having  been  faithful  unto  death,  have  obtained  the  crown 
of  life. 

The  11th  of  June  of  this  year  was  the  twenty-fifth 
anniversary  of  our  arrival  in  Samoa.  I  will  not  trouble 
the  reader  with  any  detailed  account  of  the  feelings 
and  exercises  to  which  this  gave  rise.  The  review 
of  a  quarter  of  a  century  of  one's  life  and  labours  is  of 
course  a  very  solemn  affair,  and  gives  rise  to  feelings 
of  a  very  conflicting  character — at  least  so  it  was  in  my 
case.  A  deep  tinge  of  sadness  mingled  with  all,  arising 
from  the  fact  that  it  was  now  plain  that  we  must  tear  our- 
selves away  from  Samoa,  and  from  the  work  to  which  our 
hearts  so  fondly  clung.  This  was  the  dark  cloud  which 
shaded  our  path,  and  it  was  to  us  very  dark ;  no  silver 
linino-  was  visible.  Under  other  circumstances,  we  should 
have  entered  upon  the  new  period  of  our  labours  with 
joyous  hearts  and  buoyant  spirits.  As  it  was,  however,  we 
were  sore  oppressed,  and  carried  about  with  us  continually 
a  burden,  which  became  more  and  more  heavy  as  the  end 
drew  near.  While  thus  exercised  and  thus  circumstanced, 
the  "  John  Williams  "  arrived  from  England,  and  her  arrival 
brought  matters  to  a  crisis. 

The  "John  Williams"  reached  Samoa  on  the  23d  of 


356  ARRIVALS  FROM  ENGLAND. 

July,  Lringing  a  valuable  addition  to  our  staff  of  labourers. 
This  consisted  of  the  Eev.  P.  G.  Bird  and  the  Eev.  W. 
G.  Lawes.  The  arrival  of  these  brethren  was  specially 
opportune,  as  we  were  much  in  need  of  help  in  Samoa, 
and  a  missionary  was  urgently  needed  for  Nine.  On  that 
island  a  wonderful  work  had  been  in  progress  for  several 
years,  and  the  time  had  fully  come  when  a  missionary  was 
needed  to  step  in  and  take  the  helm.  Mr  Lawes  was  ap- 
pointed to  occupy  the  important  post,  and  Mr  Bird  took 
charge  of  the  Taasaleleaga,  a  large  district  on  Savaii. 

At  the  same  meeting  at  which  these  appointments  were 
made,  held  on  the  30th  and  31st  of  July,  our  case  was 
considered,  and  the  decision  to  which  we  had  felt  con- 
strained to  come  was  approved,  as  the  only  thing  practicable 
under  the  circumstances.  It  was  something  of  a  relief 
that  it  was  arranged  that  we  should  close  our  mission  life, 
as  we  then  supposed  we  were  doing,  by  a  missionary 
voyage.  The  "John  Williams"  was  about  to  visit  our 
stations  in  the  New  Hebrides  and  Loyalty  Islands,  and  I 
was  commissioned  to  proceed  in  her,  to  visit  the  stations 
already  formed,  and  take  any  steps  towards  extension  in 
the  Northern  New  Hebrides  that  might  be  practicable  and 
appear  advisable.  It  was  left  an  open  question  whether 
we  should  return  to  Samoa,  and  thence  take  our  departure 
for  Australia,  or  whether  we  should  leave  the  "  John 
Williams "  when  our  work  was  complete,  and  remain  at 
the  New  Hebrides,  and  wait  there  an  opportunity  to  go  to 
Sydney.  Taking  all  the  circumstances  into  account,  we 
decided  upon  the  latter  course  ;  so  all  that  now  remained 
for  us  to  do  in  Samoa,  was  to  wind  up  oiu'  affairs  and 
make  arrangements  for  our  departure.  This  had  to  be 
done  in  a  very  hurried  manner,  and  perhaps  it  was  as  well 
that  it  Avas  so.  It  was  no  desirable  thing  that  our  stay 
should  be  prolonged,  now  that  Samoa  was  no  longer  our 
home.      The  meeting  at  which  the  arrangement  was  made 


DEPARTURE  FROM  SAMOA.  357 

closed  on  the  31st  of  July,  and  on  the  12th  of  the  following 
month,  we  embarked  on  board  the  "  John  Williams,"  and 
took,  what  we  believed  at  the  time  to  be,  our  final  leave  of 
Samoa. 

I  will  not  enter  into  particulars,  or  dwell  at  any  length 
upon  the  parting  scenes.  Though  they  were  of  a  cliaracter 
to  make  an  indelible  impression  upon  our  hearts,  and 
occupy  a  place  in  our  recollections  while  life  shall  last, 
they  need  not  be  obtruded  upon  the  public.  Both 
natives  and  foreign  settlers  testified  their  grateful  and 
friendly  feelings  in  a  manner  that  spoke  strongly  as  to 
their  depth  and  sincerity.  Not  in  words  only  was  this 
done  but  also  in  deeds,  which,  considering  the  circum- 
stances, were  generous  in  a  higli  degree.  And  so  termin- 
ated our  connection  with  Samoa  at  the  stage  of  our  course 
at  which  we  have  now  arrived. 

An  extract  from  a  number  of  the  "  Samoan  Eeporter," 
which  appeared  in  May,  1862  will  give  the  reader  a 
glimpse  of  the  state  of  the  district  at  that  time,  and 
of  course  but  little  change  had  taken  place  since  our 
departure. 

The  paper  from  which  the  extract  is  taken  was  written 
by  the  Kev.  H.  ISTisbet,  the  information  and  statistics 
having,  as  internal  evidence  shows,  been  furnished  by 
the  Eev.  H.  Gee,  who  took  charge  of  the  station  when 
we  left.  Mr  Nisbet  writes  as  follows : — "  In  our  short 
account  of  the  work  on  the  island  of  Upolu,  we  begin 
with  the  district  under  the  care  of  Mr  Gee,  on  the  north 
side,  which  embraces  from  Faleata  on  the  west  to  Fangaloa 
on  the  east.  Properly  speaking  it  contains  three  distinct 
divisions,  formed  into  three  churches  with  a  membership 
of  840,  and  the  candidates  for  church-fellowship  number 
500.  At  the  several  villages  throughout  the  district 
the  teachers  continue  to  be  fully  occupied  in  their 
duties   of   preaching    and    teaching;    but   w^e   have    not 


35 8    GLIMPSE  OF  THE  STATE  OF  THE  DISTRICT. 

received  a  definite  report  of  tlie  number  of  scholars  in 
the  schools ;  still  it  will  not  be  above  the  mark  to  put 
them  at  1000. 

"  The  school  also  for  the  children  of  foreign  residents 
is  still  conducted  by  Mr  Schmidt,  and  it  proves  a  great 
blessing  to  both  parents  and  children.  At  the  yearly 
examination  the  examiners  were  gratified  to  observe  the 
pleasing  progress  the  scholars  had  made  in  their  studies, 
and  especially  the  amount  of  Scripture  knowledge  they 
manifested." 

Thus  the  various  departments  of  the  mission  continued 
steadily  to  progress  down  to  the  above  date,  and  through- 
out the  mission  generally  there  were  cheering  indications 
of  a  healthy  and  advancing  state  of  things. 


(  359  ) 


CHAPTER  XLIV. 

THE   VOTAGK — TRIALS   OF   THE   MISSIONS  IN   THE    NEW   HEBRIDES — HOPEFUL 

INDICATIONS  ON  ERAMANGA  AND  VATE INTRODUCTION  OF    TEACHERS  TO 

EPI  AND  ESPIRITU  SANTO — ORIGIN  OP  THE  MISSION  SHIP  "  DAYSPRING  " 
— CONSULTATION  WITH  THE  MISSIONARIES  OF  THE  LOYALTY  ISLANDS 
MISSION — STAY  ON  ANEITEUM — DEPARTURE  AND  ARRIVAL  IN  SYDNEY. 

We  took  our  departure  from  Samoa,  as  already  mentioned, 
on  the  12th  of  August  1861.  We  had  on  hoard  Mr  and 
Mrs  Lawes,  and  Mr  and  Mrs  Pratt  and  family.  Mr  Pratt 
had  been  appointed  to  accompany  Mr  and  Mrs  Lawes  to 
their  station,  and  remain  with  them  a  few  months,  to  give 
them  the  benefit  of  his  long  experience  in  missionary 
work.  We  reached  Niue  on  the  20th  of  August.  Mr 
and  Mrs  Lawes  were  introduced  to  their  sphere  of  labour 
under  circumstances  of  the  deepest  interest,  and  on  the 
evening  of  the  23d  we  went  on  our  way,  and  on  the 
30th  of  the  same  month  we  reached  Aneiteum,  our  next 
place  of  call. 

We  had  the  satisfaction  of  finding  our  esteemed  friends 
Mr  and  Mrs  Geddie,  and  tlieir  family,  well,  but  in  very 
trying  circumstances  with  reference  to  the  state  of  the 
mission  on  their  own  and  other  islands  of  the  group.  A 
series  of  calamities  had  come  upon  them,  by  which  they 
had  been  well-nigh  overwhelmed.  Wave  had  succeeded 
wave  in  quick  succession,  and  the  wonder  is  that  on  some 
of  the  islands,  at  least,  the  missions  were  not  ruined.* 

*  For  full  particulars,  see  "  Western  Polynesia." 


36o     CONSULTATION  RELATIVE  TO  EXTENSION. 

I  was  instructed  by  the  brethren  of  the  Samoan  mission 
to  consult  with  the  missionaries  on  the  New  Hebrides 
and  Loyalty  Islands  as  to  the  most  desirable  plans  for 
future  operations  among  those  islands  which  were  still 
without  the  gospel.  This  commission  was  kept  in  view 
throughout  the  voyage,  and  during  our  stay  on  the  New 
Hebrides.  One  important  step  towards  carrying  it  out 
was  an  arrangement  that  Mr  Geddie  should  accompany 
me  in  the  voyage  round  the  stations.  This  afforded  us 
amj)le  opportunity  to  confer  fully  with  reference  to  plans 
and  proceedings;  and  at  the  meeting  of  the  Loyalty 
Islands  mission,  which  was  held  during  the  course  of 
the  voyage,  the  New  Hebrides  mission  was  represented 
by  its  senior  member. 

On  leaving  Aneiteum  we  made  our  accustomed  round. 
The  state  of  the  missions  on  the  different  islands  of  the 
New  Hebrides  was  perhaps  quite  as  encouraging  as, 
under  the  circumstances,  we  had  reason  to  expect.  At 
Eramanga  we  were  agreeably  surprised.  Instead  of  finding, 
as  we  had  feared,  that  the  recent  tragedy — the  murder  of 
Mr  and  Mrs  Gordon — had  been  followed  by  the  extinction 
of  all  traces  of  our  labours,  we  were  delighted  to  learn 
that  a  considerable  number  of  persons  were  keeping  up 
the  worship  of  God,  and  were  seemingly  determined  at 
all  hazards  to  walk  according  to  their  Light.  On  Vate 
also  there  was  much  to  encourage,  and  on  the  islands  of 
Epi  and  Espiritu  Santo,  teachers  were  placed  under  cir- 
cumstances of  interest  and  promise. 

In  the  course  of  the  voyage,  the  state  and  prospects  of 
the  missions  was  the  subject  of  frequent  and  anxious 
consultation  between  Mr  Geddie  and  myself;  and  Avith 
reference  to  one  important  matter  our  consultations  took 
a  definite  shape,  and  led  to  important  practical  results. 
It  was  strongly  impressed  upon  our  minds  that  in  order 
to  carry  on  the  work  efl&ciently  a  ve&sd  must  be  procured, 


ORIGIN  OF  THE  MISSION  SHIP  "  DA  YSPRINCr    361 

and  we  determined,  God  helping  us,  tliat  a  vessel  should 
be  procured ;  and  from  these  consultations  and  that 
determination  came  the  mission  ship  "Dayspring."  We 
thought  at  first  of  a  vessel  of  about  fifty  or  sixty  tons, 
but  it  was  ultimately  determined  to  get  one  of  larger 
dimensions. 

When  we  reached  the  Loyalty  Islands  the  subject  was 
laid  before  a  meeting  of  the  members  of  that  mission,  and 
fully  discussed.  Our  brethren  saw  as  we  did  in  tlie 
matter,  entered  cordially  into  the  proposal  to  make  an 
immediate  effort  to  procure  a  vessel,  and  engaged  to 
apj)eal  to  their  friends  and  supporters  in  Australia  to 
raise  a  proportion  of  the  funds  necessary  for  its  purchase 
and  support;  the  understanding  being  that  the  vessel 
would  be  at  their  service  part  of  her  time — about  one- 
third  it  was  expected.  It  was  proposed  that  the  Presby- 
terian bodies  to  which  the  missionaries  labouring  in  the 
New  Hebrides  belonged,  i.e.,  the  Presbyterian  Church  of 
Nova  Scotia,  and  the  Eeformed  Presbyterian  Church  of 
Scotland,  should  take  the  responsibility  of  procuring  the 
vessel,  and  that  they  should  be  the  responsible  ov/ners,  as 
the  Congregationalists  are  of  the  "  John  Wilhams ; "  these 
sustaining  a  relation  to  the  new  ship  analogous  to  that  of 
the  Presbyterians  to  the  old.  So  far  the  matter  was 
arranged  during  the  course  of  the  voyage,  and  on  our 
return  to  Aneiteum  the  necessary  steps  were  taken 
towards  the  accomplishment  of  our  object. 

We  were  detained  at  Aneiteum,  waiting  for  a  suitable 
opportunity  to  get  to  Sydney,  about  three  months.  During 
this  tune  we  enjoyed  delightful  intercourse  with  our  dear 
and  much-esteemed  friends,  Mr  and  Mrs  Geddie,  and,  as 
it  was  the  last  opportunity  we  had  of  any  prolonged  resi- 
dence together,  it  is  remembered  with  peculiar  interest  as 
a  time  of  hallowed  and  profitable  converse  with  kindred 
spirits. 


362  LEA  VING  THE  HEART  BEHIND. 

As  we  were  under  the  full  impression  that  our  work  in 
the  mission  field  was  done,  we  were  much  downcast.  We 
sought  to  acquiesce  in  what  we  believed  to  be  the  Divine 
will ;  but  our  affections  still  clung  to  our  loved  work  in 
the  islands ;  and,  when  we  finally  took  our  departure,  we, 
in  a  sense,  left  our  hearts  behind  us,  and  went  forward 
because  necessity  compelled.  As  it  ultimately  proved,  the 
heart  was  on  the  right  track,  from  which  we  were  only  to 
be  called  to  deviate  for  a  season,  that  we  might  afterwards 
return  to  it  with  undiminished,  if  not  keener,  zest. 

The  time  of  our  stay  on  Aneiteum  wore  away,  and,  on 
the  2d  of  January  1862,  we  sailed  in  the  "Adolphus 
Yates,"  a  small  vessel  engaged  in  the  sandal- wood  trade, 
and  on  the  13th  of  the  same  month  we  reached  Sydney, 
where  we  remained  till,  in  the  course  of  Providence,  the 
way  was  most  unexpectedly  opened  for  our  return  to  the 
mission  field. 


(363) 


CHAPTER  XLV. 

KETURN   TO    THE   MISSION    FIELD — REAPPOINTMENT   TO   THE   APIA   STATION — 

DEPARTURE  OF  MR    AND  MRS    GEE RESUMING  WORK  AT  APIA — DEATH  OF 

MR  SCHMIDT — ILLNESS  AND  DEATH  OF  MRS  BIRD — DEATH  OF  MB  J.  M. 
MILLS — DREADFUL  HURRICANE  AND  LOSS  OF  FOUR  VESSELS  WITH  ALL 
ON   BOARD — WRECK   OP   THE   FIRST  "  JOHN  WILLIAMS  " — DEATH  OF   MRS 

WHITMEE  AND  MR    BIRD VISIT    TO  SAVAII CLOSE  OF   THE  TEAR    1864 

ANOTHER  DREADFUL  HURRICANE — WRECK  OF  A  VESSEL  IN  APIA  HABBOUK, 
AND  LOSS  OF  THIRTEEN  LIVES. 

It  has  been  intimated  in  a  former  chapter  that,  in  leaving 
the  mission  field,  we  did  not  act  from  choice,  but  simply- 
yielded  to  what  we  believed  to  be  a  plain  call  of  duty. 
And,  such  being  the  case,  we  were  of  course  prepared  to 
welcome  any  change  in  our  circumstances  which  held  out 
the  prospect  of  a  return  to  the  work  of  our  choice ;  and, 
about  the  month  of  July  1863,  such  a  change  did  take 
place  as  in  our  own  opinion,  and  that  of  competent  ad- 
visers, justified  our  entertaining  the  subject.  And,  while 
we  were  anxiously  pondering  it,  and  looking  to  God  for 
guidance,  events  transpired  which  brought  matters  to  a 
crisis.  Our  fellow-labourers,  Dr  and  Mrs  Turner,  with  a 
party  of  young  brethren,  arrived  in  Australia  from  England, 
on  their  way  to  resume  their  work  in  the  islands,  and  con- 
sultation with  them  and  other  friends  helped  us  much 
in  coming  to  a  decision.  In  the  meanwhile,  the  "  John 
Williams "  arrived  in  Sydney  on  her  annual  visit,  and  in 
a  few  weeks  all  was  arranged,  and  we  embarked  in  her  and 
sailed  for  Samoa. 


364  RETURN  TO  THE  MISSION  FIELD. 

We  left  Sydney  on  the  20th  of  September,  called  at 
Mare,  Lifu,  and  Uvea  of  the  Loyalty  Islands,  and  Aneiteum 
of  the  New  Hebrides ;  and,  on  the  29th  of  November,  we 
reached  Samoa,  and  anchored  in  Apia  harbour.  On  the 
following  day,  which  was  the  Sabbath,  my  work  in  the 
mission  field  was  resumed.  In  the  morning  I  addressed 
the  native  congregation,  and  the  English  in  the  evening. 

The  Apia  station,  including  the  district  of  Saluafata, 
had  been  under  the  care  of  Mr  Gee  from  the  time  of  our 
leaving.  Now  a  bodily  infirmity,  from  which  he  had  been 
suffering  for  a  length  of  time,  had  so  increased  that  he 
determined  to  proceed  to  England  by  the  first  favourable 
opportunity,  to  seek  medical  aid.  Thus  the  station  was 
open,  and  it  was  arranged  that  after  the  departure  of  Mr 
Gee,  I  should  again  take  charge  of  it. 

We  retired  in  the  meanwhile  to  Saluafata.  We  went 
there  on  the  12th  of  December,  expecting  to  remain  for  a 
considerable  time.  We  re-entered  upon  regular  missionary 
work  tliere  in  circumstances  of  much  interest  and  promise. 
Three  Sabbaths  had  passed,  and  a  new  year,  1864,  had 
opened  upon  us,  and  we  were  in  the  midst  of  the  special 
services  which  we  were  accustomed  to  hold  in  the  first 
week  of  January,  when  a  most  unexpected  summons 
reached  us  to  make  all  haste  to  Apia.  An  opportunity 
to  go  to  England  had  offered  which  Mr  and  Mrs  Gee  had 
determined  to  embrace,  and  they  had  to  prepare  for  their 
departure  on  very  short  notice.  Late  in  the  evening  of 
the  7th  of  January,  we  reached  Apia  from  Saluafata ;  on 
the  9th  our  friends  were  ready  for  a  start,  and  on  the  10th 
they  took  their  departure.  And  now  we  were  again  in 
our  old  home,  and  among  the  people  from  whom  we  had 
been  taken  for  a  season  in  presence,  not  in  heart,  and  our 
wonted  duties  were  resumed. 

I  have  passed  over  the  time  we  spent  in  Sydney,  as  it 
does  not  furnish  any  missionary  recollections,  properly  so 


DEATH  OF  MR  SCHMIDT.  365 

called  ;  and  I  must  not  dwell  upon  the  ordinary  events  of 
the  years  that  succeeded  our  return  to  Apia,  lest  this  work 
swell  to  an  inconvenient  size.  Missionary  work,  not  con- 
nected with  my  everyday  duties,  together  with  events  out 
of  the  ordinary  course,  will  furnish  ample  materials  to  fill 
up  the  limited  space  that  remains. 

Very  soon  after  our  return  we  sustained  a  serious  loss  in 
the  death  of  our  schoolmaster,  Mr  Schmidt.  For  a  number 
of  years  Mr  Schmidt  had  faithfully  and  zealously  discharged 
his  duties  as  teacher  of  the  school  for  the  children  of  foreign 
residents,  often  under  circumstances  of  no  small  difficulty 
and  trial,  and  many  of  the  members  of  our  community 
owed  him  much.  Now  he  was  suddenly  taken  from  us, 
and  in  his  death  we  sustained  a  loss  which  has  been  felt, 
more  or  less,  to  the  present  day.  The  services  of  other 
teachers  have  been  obtained  from  time  to  time,  but  no  one 
has  been  found  to  fill  the  situation  as  did  Mr  Schmidt. 

We  continued  to  have  much  to  encourage,  both  in  the 
Apia  and  Saluafata  districts,  during  the  early  months  of 
this  year.  There  were  many  candidates  for  admission  to 
the  churches,  and  many  were  being  admitted  at  not  distant 
intervals,  while  the  failures  were  comparatively  few,  and 
our  educational  work  was  going  on  as  heretofore. 

In  the  month  of  April  an  event  occurred,  the  second  of  a 
scries,  which  gave  this  year  a  melancholy  pre-eminence 
over  all  that  had  gone  before  it  since  the  commencement 
of  our  mission.  Three  years  had  not  passed  since  our 
hearts  had  been  gladdened  by  the  arrival  of  Mr  and  Mrs 
Lawes  and  Mr  and  Mrs  Bird.  Now  two  of  these  were 
laid  aside  from  their  work,  and  in  a  little  while  they  were 
away  from  the  toils  and  sufferings  of  earth  to  the  rest  of 
heaven.  Early  in  the  present  year,  Mr  and  Mrs  Bird  had 
gone  to  Nine,  in  the  hope  that  a  short  residence  in  that 
fine  climate  would  prove  beneficial  to  their  health.  We 
had  heard  nothing  of  them  since  theii"  departure.     Hence 


366  AFFECTING  CHANGES. 

we  were  not  prepared  for  tlie  melanclioly  arrival  which  we 
had  on  the  14th  of  April.  On  that  day  a  vessel  dropped 
into  the  harbour,  having  Mr  Bird  on  board.  He  had  buried 
his  wife  on  Niue,  and  was  now  returning  with  his  infant  son, 
himself  a  dying  man.  The  case  appeared  a  very  sad  one. 
Mr  Bird  was  a  man  of  great  zeal  and  energy,  and  during  liis 
brief  term  of  service  he  had  been  in  labours  more  abun- 
dant, and  was  no  doubt  anticipating  many  years  of  useful 
work.  Now  all  his  fond  hopes  Avere  extinguished,  and  he 
had  nothing  before  him  on  earth  but  a  few  days  or  weeks 
of  waiting  and  suffering.  Under  the  circumstances,  it  was 
only  natural  that  lu  should  cling  to  hope,  even  when  it  was 
manifest  to  others  tliat  no  ground  for  hope  remained.  His 
disease  was  that  insidious  one,  pulmonary  consumption, 
which  so  often  buoys  up  its  victims  with  false  hopes  to  the 
last.  Our  friend,  however,  strove  to  be  resigned  and  sub- 
missive ;  and  his  mind  seemed  generally  calm  and  peaceful. 
After  a  short  time  spent  with  us,  he  went  to  Malua,  and 
found  a  quiet  home  in  the  family  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Nisbet 
during  his  remaining  days. 

And  soon  after  Mr  Bird's  return  from  Niue,  another  trial 
came  upon  us  of  a  character  equally  sad — indeed,  in  some 
of  its  aspects,  more  sad  than  his.  One  of  the  three  young 
brethren  who  had  recently  arrived  from  England  with  Dr 
Turner  was  Mr  J.  M.  Mills,  a  son  of  my  predecessor  at 
Apia.  Mr  Mills,  junior,  after  having  been  favoured  with 
educational  advantages  of  a  high  order,  had  given  himself 
to  missionary  work,  and  had  returned  from  the  land  of  his 
fathers  to  his  native  land,  hoping  to  spend  his  life  in  carry- 
ing forward  the  work  which  his  father  and  others  had 
begun.  He  had,  of  course,  but  just  entered  upon  his  work. 
Early  in  the  month  of  May  he  was  seized  with  an  illness 
which  gradually  increased,  till  on  the  14th  of  the  same 
month  it  terminated  fatally.  A  sad,  sad  blow  it  seemed  to 
all  concerned,  and  a  most  mysterious  dispensation  of  Divine 


A    WARNING  TO  YOUNG  MEN.  367 

providence,  that  put  a  period  to  the  life  and  labours  of  our 
young  friend,  just  as  he  was  girding  his  armour  on.  Per- 
haps it  ought  to  be  mentioned  as  a  warning  to  others, 
especially  the  young  and  inexperienced,  that  Mr  IMills  had 
laboured  beyond  his  strength  before  the  commencement  of 
his  illness,  and  that  after  it  had  commenced,  he  had  gone 
to  a  distance  to  fulfil  a  preaching  engagement,  and  that  on 
his  way  he  had  got  wet,  and  had  gone  and  preached  not- 
withstanding. His  zeal,  of  course,  was  highly  commend- 
able, but  how  sad  the  result !  Let  young  men  therefore 
beware,  and  avoid  over-exertion,  and  everything  likely  to 
induce  chills  and  colds,  if  they  would  insure  a  prolonged 
course  of  usefulness. 

While  disease  and  death  were  thus  invading  the 
families  of  our  mission,  calamities  of  a  different  character 
were  falling  upon  our  own  and  neighbouring  groups  of 
islands.  On  the  20th  of  May  a  vessel  arrived  bringing 
the  intelligence  that  in  the  month  of  March  a  dreadful 
hurricane  (a  cyclone  no  doubt)  had  swej)t  over  the  groups 
and  islands  a  few  degrees  to  the  south  of  us.  The  fuU 
fury  of  the  gale  had  fallen  upon  Fiji,  and  no  less  than 
four  vessels  had  been  lost,  with  every  soul  on  board. 
And  what  invested  the  sad  tidings  with  so  deep  and 
mournful  an  interest  to  our  community,  was  the  fact  that 
one  of  the  .lost  vessels,  the  "  Charlotte,"  belonged  to 
our  port,  and  had  sailed  thence  about  three  months  before 
with  Mr  Unshelm  on  board,  the  representative  of  the  firm 
of  Messrs  Goddefroy  &  Son  of  Hamburgh,  the  owners 
of  the  vessel.  Mr  Unshelm  had  left  a  wife  and  family  in 
Samoa,  and  over  them  of  course  fell  the  darkest  cloud  ; 
but  so  large  a  space  did  the  business  of  which  Mr 
Unshelm  was  the  originator  and  sole  manager  occupy  in 
our  community,  that  his  death,  in  circumstances  so  awful 
and  so  unexpected,  was  felt  more  or  less  deeply  by  all. 
Every  one  seemed  to  be  affected  and  impressed  for  the 


368  WRECK  OF  THE  "  JOHN  WILLIAMS." 

time,  and  our  English  service  on  tlie  Sabbath  imme- 
diately succeeding  the  arrival  of  the  intelligence  was 
deeply  solemn.  An  address  from  the  words  "  The  Lord's 
voice  crieth  to  the  city,"  was  listened  to  with  apparently 
earnest  attention.  I  am  not  aware,  however,  that  there 
were  any  lasting  results.  Impressions  which  appear  deep 
and  promising  are  often,  alas  !  "  like  the  morning  cloud  and 
the  early  dew  which  goeth  away."  In  the  midst  of  these 
commotions  within  and  without,  our  annual  missionary 
meetings  were  held.  The  contributions  in  the  Apia 
district  were  for  the  London  Missionary  Society  £131,  lis. 
6d.,  and  for  the  support  of  native  pastors  £159,  8s.  I  am 
unable  to  give  the  sums  raised  in  the  Saluafata  district 
this  year.  It  is  probable  that  the  amount  in  the  two 
districts  was  considerably  over  £400. 

I  had  just  got  home  from  Saluafata  and  Fangaloa, 
to  which  places  I  had  gone  to  hold  the  missionary 
meetings,  when  an  event  was  announced  which  concerned 
us  as  a  mission  much  more  deeply  than  the  occurrences 
to  which  reference  has  just  been  made,  though  we  were 
far  from  indifferent  to  these.  On  the  evening  of  the 
29th  of  May  we  were  startled  by  the  arrival  of  Mr  Turpie, 
chief  officer  of  the  "John  "Williams,"  in  an  open  boat. 
What  could  it  mean  ?  Alas !  the  mystery  was  soon 
solved.  The  "  John  Williams  "  was  wrecked  !  The  dear 
old  "  John  Williams,"  in  which  we  had  so  often  voyaged, 
and  whose  arrival  had  so  often  filled  our  hearts  with 
gladness,  was  gone !  The  mournful  tale  was  soon  told. 
The  vessel  had  drifted  on  shore  in  a  calm  at  the  island  of 
Pukapuka  (Danger  Island),  and,  after  hanging  on  the  rock 
on  which  she  struck  a  sufficiently  long  time  to  allow  of 
all  on  board  getting  safe  to  the  shore,  she  slid  off  and 
sank  in  seventy  fathoms  water!  Wliat  a  mercy  that 
there  was  an  interval  between  her  striking  and  going 
down!      The   passengers   on  board   were    Mr  Eoyle  of 


REMARKS- MITIGA  TIONS. 


369 


Aitutaki,  on  liis  way  to  Sydney  for  change  and  rest, 
and  Mr  and  Mrs  Barff,  wlio  were  also  on  their  way  to 
Australia,  retuing  from  the  mission  field,  after  about  half 
a  century's  faithful  service.  A  vessel  was  despatched 
with  aU  possible  speed  to  the  scene  of  the  wreck,  and 
on  the  14th  of  June  all  the  shipwrecked  party  arrived  in 
safety  at  Apia,  where  they  remained  till  an  opportunity 
offered  of  proceeding  to  Sydney.  They  left  us  for  that 
place  on  the  6th  of  July. 


VIEW    IN    PUKAPUKA. 


The  loss  of  our  ship  was  felt  by  us  all  to  be  a  grievous 
calamity,  still  there  was  much  connected  with  it  of  an 
alleviating  character.  That  all  lives  were  saved,  and  that 
there  was  no  serious  accident  to  any  one,  nor  any  prolonged 
suffering,  either  to  those  who  remained  on  the  island  or 
those  who  risked  their  lives  to  come  so  far  in  an  open 

2  a 


370      STEPS  TOWARDS  SUPPLYING  OUR  LOSS. 

boat,  was  matter  for  much  thankfulness ;  and,  though 
our  fine  ship  was  gone,  she  had  done  a  great  work.  For 
twenty  years  she  had  voyaged  to  and  fro  throughout  the 
vast  Pacific,  in  pursuance  of  the  one  great  object  for 
which  she  was  purchased  and  sustained,  and  that  object 
had  been  promoted  to  a  very  gratifying  extent;  and 
now  that  she  was  taken  from  us,  it  was  not  for  us  to 
murmur  or  compLain,  but,  on  the  contrary,  to  be  thank- 
ful for  the  past  and  hopeful  for  the  future;  and  so  we 
felt,  while  we  took  immediate  steps  to  do  what  we  were 
able  towards  procuring  a  second  "John  Williams"  to 
take  up  and  carry  forward  the  work  which  had  been 
begun  by  the  "  Camden,"  and  carried  on  so  far  by  her 
successor. 

Our  views  as  to  the  necessity  of  procuring  another  vessel 
with  the  least  possible  delay  were  forwarded  at  once  to  the 
Directors,  and  an  appeal  was  made  to  the  children  at  all 
our  stations  throughout  the  group,  to  make  a  special  effort 
to  assist  the  children  of  England  in  the  purchase  of  a 
new  mission  ship.  The  appeal  met  with  a  warm  response, 
and  a  goodly  sum  was  raised — I  think  between  £400  and 
£500. 

The  stir  and  excitement  connected  with  the  wreck  of  our 
vessel  were  but  just  over,  when  another  calamity  of  a  very 
painful  character  came  upon  us.  We  had  gone  to  Salua- 
I'ata  to  spend  a  few  days  towards  the  close  of  July.  After 
attending  to  the  work  of  the  station  there,  I  had  gone  on  to 
Fangaloa,  leaving  Mrs  Murray  to  await  my  return.  About 
midnight  I  was  aroused  to  hear  the  sad  tale  that  another 
member  of  our  mission  had  been  taken  from  us.  Mrs 
Whitmee — one  of  the  same  party  to  which  Mr  Mills 
belonged — a  woman  of  high  promise,  and  esteemed  and 
beloved  by  all  to  whom  she  was  known,  had  passed  away. 
She  died  at  Leone,  where  she  and  her  husband  had  been 


FURTHER  CHECKS.  371 

settled  only  a  few  months,  leaving  behind  her  a  delightful 
testimony  to  the  power  and  preciousness  of  that  gospel,  to 
spread  the  knowledge  of  which  she  had  left  her  home  and 
native  land,  and  come  to  the  ends  of  the  earth,  to  spend 
her  life  among  semi-barbarians,  or  whole  barbarians, 
as  the  case  might  be.  She  died  on  the  16th  of  July, 
and  passed,  no  doubt,  into  the  presence  of  the  Saviour 
she  loved  ;  and  on  the  22d  of  the  month  of  August  Mr 
Bu'd  followed. 

Thus  stroke  upon  stroke  fell  upon  us  during  the  course 
of  this  eventful  year.  Our  mission  had  recently  been 
largely  reinforced,  and  we  were  probably  in  some  danger 
of  being  elated  on  that  ground.  If  such  were  the  case,  we 
were  forcibly  and  affectingly  taught  how  little  dependence 
can  be  placed  iii  mere  numbers,  and  how  important  it  is 
to  cease  from  man,  and  look  to  and  depend  upon  Him 
who,  amid  changing  scenes  and  dying  friends,  remains  "  the 
same  yesterday,  to-day,  and  forever." 

We  may  close  our  notice  of  the  year  we  are  now  review- 
ing by  a  brief  reference  to  a  visit  which  we  were  called  to 
make  to  the  station  on  Savaii,  left  vacant  by  the  death  of 
]\Ir  and  Mrs  Bird.  We  spent  a  full  month  in  discharging 
the  duty  devolved  upon  us.  There  was  much  of  an  affect- 
ing and  saddening  character  connected  with  the  visit.  We 
must  not  stop,  however,  to  give  expression  to  the  feelings 
and  reflections  to  which  the  sight  of  the  desolate  dwelling, 
and  the  many  objects  which  everywliere  reminded  us  of 
the  departed,  gave  rise. 

There  was  much  that  was  encouraging  in  different  parts 
of  the  district.  I  conversed  with  over  a  hundred  candidates 
for  church-fellowship,  and  seventy-two  were  added  to  the 
different  churches.  Interesting  meetings  were  held  with 
the  young  with  reference  to  getting  a  new  mission  ship, 
and  many  meetings  were  held  with  the  teachers,  at  which 
they  were  counselled,  advised,  and  encouraged. 


372  A  FEARFUL  GALE. 

After  our  return  from  Savaii  we  went  on  with  our 
accustomed  work,  and  nothing  further  calling  for  particular 
remark  occurred  during  the  remainder  of  the  year;  but 
early  in  1865  we  had  another  dreadful  hurricane.  Our 
group  did  not  suffer  directly  from  that  of  the  former  year, 
but  that  which  occurred  in  the  l3eginning  of  February  of 
this  year  fell  very  heavily  upon  some  parts  of  Samoa,  and 
in  our  own  harbour,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  shore,  the 
most  dire  calamity  occurred  that  has  resulted  from  any 
similar  visitation  since  the  commencement  of  our  mission 
to  the  present  day. 

These  gales  are  generally — perhaps  invariably — preceded 
by  rough  and  stormy  weather,  lasting  for  a  week  or 
more.  So  it  was  on  the  present  occasion.  A  fresh 
breeze  had  been  blowing  for  some  days,  and  there  had 
been  an  extraordinarily  high  sea,  and  on  the  4th  of 
February  there  were  unmistakable  signs  of  a  heavy  blow, 
and  towards  evening  the  wind  had  increased  to  a  hurri- 
cane, and  the  sea  had  risen  to  a  greater  height  than 
I  had  ever  seen  it  before.  It  was  grand  but  awful  to 
look  upon  the  huge  waves  as  they  rolled  in  in  terrible 
majesty  and  broke  upon  the  shore,  seeming  as  if  they 
would  engulf  the  village.  Happily  no  houses  of  any  con- 
sequence were  destroyed,  and  no  lives  were  lost  on  shore ; 
but  in  the  bay,  as  already  intimated,  an  awful  calamity 
occurred.  The  "Alster,"  a  German  vessel,  owned  by 
Messrs  Goddefroy  &  Son,  between  300  and  400  tons  burden, 
was  at  anchor.  She  had  her  cargo  on  board,  and  was 
nearly  ready  for  sea.  She  was  bound  for  Europe,  and 
a  party  from  our  mission,  Mr  and  Mrs  Powell  and  family, 
and  four  children  belonging  to  another  mission  family, 
were  about  to  proceed  in  her.  Their  passages  were  taken, 
and  every  arrangement  made.  Towards  evening  of  the 
day  I  have  named,  parties  on  shore  who  were  watching 


A  DREADFUL  CALAMITY.  373 

the  vessel  were  apprehensive  for  her  safety,  as  the  sea 
seemed  to  be  making  clean  breaclies  over  her,  but,  strange 
to  say,  those  on  board  appeared  to  feel  quite  secure.  The 
vessel  had  new  chains,  and  her  anchors  and  everything 
on  which  her  safety  was  supposed  to  depend  were  in  first- 
rate  order.  Hence  no  doubt  tlie  confidence  that  was  felt. 
Alas !  it  was  misplaced  confidence.  The  storm  raged 
with  unabated  violence  as  the  night  wore  on,  and  about 
9  o'clock  a  blue  light  or  lights  were  seen — seen  for  a  brief 
space — and  all  again  was  darkness.  Those  on  board  had 
at  length  awoke  to  a  consciousness  of  their  danger,  but 
it  was  too  late.  While  the  daylight  lasted,  help  might 
have  reached  them ;  but  now  it  was  impossible,  and 
they  must  be  left  to  their  fate,  and  a  fearful  fate  it  was  ! 
When  the  morning  light  dawned  the  gale  had  spent 
itself,  and  the  full  extent  of  the  havoc  it  had  wrought 
on  shore  could  be  seen,  but  the  "  Alster "  was  gone ! 
Only  the  tops  of  her  masts  rising  a  little  way  above 
the  water  marked  the  spot  where  she  had  been,  and 
where  every  one  belonging  to  her,  except  a  single  indi- 
vidual, had  found  a  grave.  Hoiu  the  man  who  was  saved 
managed  to  get  to  a  place  of  safety  is  a  marvel.  He  was 
found  in  the  morning  on  board  a  small  vessel  that  was 
at  anchor  inside  where  the  "  Alster  "  lay — nearer  the  shore. 
He  could  give  no  account  of  himself,  nor  of  the  calamity 
that  had  befallen  the  "Alster,"  but  there  he  was  alive. 
The  probability  is  that  he  had  got  hold  of  the  anchor  chain 
of  the  small  vessel,  and  so  managed  to  clamber  on  board. 
Of  all  the  others — thirteen  in  number — not  one  even  of 
the  bodies  was  ever  found.  It  was  supposed  that  the 
vessel  must  have  broken  in  two  about  the  middle,  and, 
in  that  case,  all  would  be  engulfed  in  a  moment.  The 
vessel  lay  at  a  short  distance  from  a  fine  sandy  beach, 
on  which  she  might  have  been  run  without  any  difficulty. 


374  MIGHT  HA  VE  BEEN  A  VERTED. 

and  all  lives  have  been  saved,  and  perhaps  also  the  ship 
and  cargo. 

And  now  we  wiU  turn  from  this  dreary  record  of  deaths 
and  storms  and  shipwi-ecks  to  something  of  a  more  cheer- 
ing and  inviting  character,  which  will  form  the  subject 
of  our  next  chapter. 


(  375  ) 


CHAPTER  XLYI. 

FIRST  MISSIONARY  VOYAGE  TO  THE  ELLICE'S  GROUP — REMARKABLE  ORIGIN  OF 
THE  VOYAGE — ARRIVAL  AT  NUKULAELAE — INIQUITOUS  DOINGS  OP  THE 
PERUVIAN  SLAVERS — SETTLEMENT  OF  A  TEACHER — FUNAFUTI — DOINGS  OF 
THE  SLAVERS  THERE — GREAT  DESIRE  OF  THE  PEOPLE  FOR  A  TEACHER — 
NUKUFETATJ — STATE  OF  THE  PEOPLE  AND  INTRODUCTION  OF  A  TEACHER 
— VAITUPU — THE  FIRST  HOME  OF  THE  ORIGINAL  SETTLERS — INTERESTING 
FACTS — VISIT  TO  NUI — CHEERING  RECEPTION — INTERESTING  STATE  OF 
THE  PEOPLE — THEIR  ORIGIN — AN  ODD  CHARACTER — CLOSE  OF  THE 
VOYAGE — REFLECTIONS. 

During  the  course  of  tlie  year  1865,  we  took  a  step  in  the 
way  of  extension,  wliich  led  to  results  and  was  brought 
about  in  a  way  so  remarkable,  as  to  be  deserving  of  a  par- 
ticular and  permanent  record.  The  voyage,  the  particulars 
of  which  I  am  about  to  give,  took  its  rise  from  another 
voyage,  the  history  of  which  is  as  follows  : — 

On  Saturday,  the  22d  of  April  1861,  a  party  consist- 
ing of  nine  persons — six  men,  two  women,  and  one  child, 
— left  the  island  of  Manihiki,  of  the  Penrhyn  group,  which 
is  about  1500  miles  to  the  east  of  the  first  island  of 
the  group  to  which  we  were  now  about  to  attempt  to 
introduce  the  gospel.  The  craft  in  which  tlie  party 
sailed  was  a  frail  and  cumbersome  affair  in  which  to 
attempt  -  a  voyage  in  the  open  ocean,  even  for  a  short 
distance.  It  consisted  of  two  canoes  lashed  together  by 
means  of  transverse  spars.  Over  these  boards  were  laid, 
which  formed  a  sort  of  deck,  and  on  that  was  a  shed 
covered  with  the  braided  leaf  of  the  cocoa-nut,  which 
afforded  a  shelter  from  the   sun  and   rain.     The  canoes 


376  AN  ADVENTUROUS  VOYAGE. 

were  about  forty-eiglit  feet  in  length,  and  the  platform  was 
six  feet  in  breadth.  There  was  one  large  sail  of  native 
matting,  and  two  small  calico  sails.  The  provision  for  the 
voyage  consisted  of  a  quantity  of  cocoa-nuts,  and  four 
calabashes  of  water  (perhaps  about  two  gallons).  Thus 
equipped  the  party  left  Maniliiki,  their  native  isle.  The 
reason  why  they  started  so  poorly  furnished  was,  that  the 
island  of  Eakaanga,  to  which  they  were  bound,  is  only  about 
thirty  miles  distant  from  Manihiki.  They  commenced 
their  voyage  with  a  fair  wind,  and  all  went  smoothly  till 
they  were  within  a  few  miles  of  their  destination.  They 
were  so  near  that  they  could  discern  the  sandy  beach  and 
the  houses  along  the  coast.  An  hour  more  of  fair  wind, 
and  they  would  have  been  safely  landed.  Alas  !  alas ! 
little  did  they  dream  of  what  awaited  them.  A  sudden 
change  of  wind  dashed  their  hopes,  and  was  the  first  of  a 
series  of  perils  and  sufferings  which  has  few  recorded 
parallels  in  our  missionary  annals. 

For  a  while  they  strove  to  reach  Eakaanga,  but  finding 
that  impracticable,  they  changed  their  course  with  the 
intention  of  returning  to  Manihiki,  but  this  being  low,  was 
not  in  sight,  and  Eakaanga  was  soon  lost  sight  of,  and  so 
night  overtook  them  in  the  open  ocean  and  out  of  sight  of 
land.  They  kept  on  all  night,  supposing  that  they  were 
making  their  way  towards  Manihiki ;  but  when  morning 
dawned,  neither  Manihiki  nor  any  other  land  was  to  be 
seen.  And  what  a  plight  was  theirs  !  Afloat  on  their 
frail  craft,  with  only  cocoa-nuts  and  about  two  gallons  of 
water,  on  the  great,  wide  sea,  without  chart  or  compass, 
and  altogether  uncertain  as  to  their  position  !  They  held 
a  consultation  and  determined  to  abandon  the  search  for 
Manihiki,  and  stand  to  the  south,  in  the  hope  of  making 
Earotonga  or  Samoa,  or  some  other  land  in  that  direction. 
Three  men  of  the  six  were  required  to  be  always  on  duty 
to  keep  the  canoe  afloat,  one  to  steer  and  two  to  bale ;  so 


VARIO  US  AL  TERN  A  TIONS.  2>77 

they  divided  themselves  into  two  Wcatches,  and  kept  on, 
day  and  night,  at  tlieir  weary,  monotonous  task.  They 
kept  steering  southward  till  Friday,  the  seventh  day  from 
the  commencement  of  their  voyage,  when  a  strong  southerly 
wind  set  in  which  prevented  their  getting  farther  in  that 
direction.  This  continued  till  Sabbath,  when  it  fell  calm. 
Then  came  a  westerly  wind,  and  other  changes  followed, 
but  brought  them  no  relief. 

On  the  following  Friday,  about  noon,  they  sighted  land. 
What  a  gladsome  sight  to  their  strained,  weary  eyes  ! 
But,  alas!  their  troubles  were  not  yet  to  end.  They 
strove  with  all  their  might  to  reach  the  land,  and  got 
very  near  it ;  but  the  weather  was  squally,  night  overtook 
them,  and  their  efforts  were  fruitless.  One  thmg,  how- 
ever, they  gained  by  getting  near  land,  which  was  to 
them  of  priceless  value.  A  copious  shower  of  rain  fell, 
and  they  managed,  with  the  aid  of  their  sails,  to  obtain  a 
supply  of  water.  They  had  been  suffering  intensely  from 
thirst.  Again  and  again  they  would  steer  in  the  direction 
of  a  cloud  which  seemed  to  promise  relief,  and  as  often, 
like  the  deceitful  mirage  of  the  desert,  would  the  object 
of  their  pursuit  disappoint  their  hopes. 

On  the  following  day  they  again  sighted  land,  but  were 
unable  to  reach  it  on  account  of  the  roughness  of  the 
weather.  They  kept  on  guiding  the  movements  of  the 
canoe  till  the  following  Monday,  when  they  gave  them- 
selves up  pretty  much  to  the  winds  and  currents,  or 
rather,  I  should  say,  to  the  providence  of  God,  to  be  carried 
where  that  might  conduct  them.  Now  and  again  one 
would  take  a  spell  at  the  steer-oar,  but,  being  uncertain 
as  to  whether  any  advantage  would  be  derived  from  so 
doing,  there  was  no  motive  of  sufficient  power  to  prompt 
to  persevering  effort.  Thus  they  went  on  from  day  to  day 
for  six  weary  weeks,  and  then  a  consultation  was  held,  and 
it  was  proposed  that  they  should  give  up  exertion,  and 


378  MAN'S  EXTREMITY. 

resign  themselves  to  what  seemed  to  be  their  inevitable 
fate.  But  hope  was  not  yet  extinct  in  the  bosoms  of  aU. 
One  stated  that  he  felt  able  to  go  on  baling  for  a  little 
longer  if  another  would  join  him.  It  would  have  been 
useless  for  one  to  go  on  alone.  While  he  was  baling  the 
one  canoe  the  other  would  fill  and  sink  both.  One  of  the 
canoes  was  less  leaky  than  tlie  other,  and  another  of  the 
party  volunteered  to  do  his  best  to  keep  that  afloat.  But 
now  only  six  cocoa-nuts  remained,  and  those  who  kept  at 
work,  and  on  whose  continued  exertions  the  lives  of  all 
depended,  must  have  support.  Hence  it  was  agreed  that 
the  six  cocoa-nuts  should  be  kept  for  them.  The  others 
had  to  subsist  as  best  they  could  on  scraps  that  had  been 
thrown  aside  during  the  early  part  of  the  voyage.  They 
caught  two  sharks  and  one  sea-bird  during  the  course  of 
the  voyage. 

For  nearly  two  weeks  longer  they  lingered  on,  the  two 
balers  exerting  themselves  most  bravely,  while  the  others 
quietly  awaited  the  issue.  During  the  whole  voyage  they 
had  worship  regularly,  morning  and  evening,  and  on  the 
Sabbath,  they  had  services  somewhat  more  protracted. 
Four  of  the  party  were  members  of  the  Church,  and  one, 
Elekana,  was  a  deacon.  On  the  eighth  Sabbath  matters 
readied  a  crisis.  Deliverance  must  appear  within  a  few 
hours,  or  their  doom  was  sealed.  Only  half  a  cocoa-nut 
remained  for  the  balers,  and  when  that  was  consumed 
nothing  further  could  be  done.  They  had  finished  their 
Sabbath  evening  worship  ;  they  concluded  that  the  end  had 
come,  and  agreed  that  they  would  just  commit  themselves 
mto  the  hands  of  God,  and  wait  His  will.  It  seems  almost 
incredible  that  all  were  still  alive,  but  so  it  was.  The 
evening  was  calm  and  beautiful,  and  the  sky  without  a 
cloud — strikingly  out  of  harmony  with  their  sad  circum- 
stances in  as  far  as  ajijJearances  went.  Elekana  looked 
round  the  horizon — one  more  despairing  look — before  what 


LIGHT  IN  DARKNESS— DELIVERANCE.  379 

was  expected  to  be  their  last  night  closed  in  upon  them. 
Eagerly  scanning  the  horizon,  something  having  the 
appearance  of  land  caught  his  eye !  Could  it  really  be 
land,  or  was  it  a  dream,  or  were  his  senses  failing  him,  and 
death  approaching  ?  So  he  felt  while  he  was  intently  gaz- 
ing upon  the  object  towards  which  all  eyes  were  speedily 
turned.  Notliing  similar  was  to  be  seen  in  any  other  part 
of  the  heavens,  and  soon  all  were  satisfied  that  what  they 
saw  was  in  very  deed  land.  But  they  had  seen  land 
before,  and  been  near  it  too,  more  than  once,  and  had 
failed  to  reach  it,  and  so  it  might  be  again ;  especially  was 
this  to  be  dreaded  as  a  squall  of  wind  sprung  up  soon  after 
the  land  was  discovered.  The  wind,  however,  brought  a 
shower  of  rain,  which  was  as  life  from  the  dead.  They 
drank,  and  were  refreshed  and  strengthened  for  a  final 
effort  to  save  their  lives ;  but  the  wind  that  brought  the 
rain  was  from  the  land,  and  should  it  continue  so,  the  last 
door  of  hope  had  closed,  and  the  end  had  surely  come.  It 
was  not  so,  however.  The  wind  that  brought  the  rain  was 
only  a  passing  squall.  They  had  one  sail  remaining  ;  this 
they  hoisted  and  ran  straight  in  for  the  land.  To  make  it, 
however,  was  a  formidable  undertaking,  since  between 
them  and  it  was  a  broad  reef  over  which  the  sea  was 
breaking  heavily.  This,  of  course,  they  did  not  know,  or 
if  they  had,  they  must  still  have  gone  on  at  all  hazards,  as 
there  was  no  other  hope  for  them  but  that  of  reaching  the 
land  before  them.  So  on  they  went,  and  towards  midnight 
their  frail  craft  was  close  to  the  reef,  and  very  soon  they 
were  among  the  breakers ;  but  on  tliey  must  go  and  on 
they  went,  roller  after  roller  bearing  them  onward,  till  the 
welcome  shore  was  reached.  It  is  painful  to  add  that  one 
woman  and  one  man  and  the  child,  after  surviving  all 
the  perils  and  hardships  of  the  voyage,  perished  among  the 
breakers  ;  and  when  the  canoe  had  grounded,  anotlier  was 
found  just  alive,  and  died  soon  after.     The  remaining  five 


38o  OPENING  OF  A  NEW  DOOR. 

were  saved,  and  one  of  these  was  Elekana,  who  was  des- 
tined to  act  so  important  a  part  in  the  evangelisation  of 
the  isLands,  on  the  shores  of  one  of  which  he  and  his 
fellows  were  now  cast. 

The  island  which  tlie  voyagers  made  was  Nukulaelae 
of  the  Ellice's  group.  They  were  of  course  greatly 
exhausted — so  much  so,  that  though  cocoa-nuts  were 
hanging  over  their  heads  they  were  unable  to  reach  them. 
The  morning  light,  however,  brought  relief.  They  were 
soon  discovered  by  a  native,  of  whom  we  shall  liave  more 
to  say  by  and  by,  and  from  him  and  others  they  received 
needful  help  and  succour.  In  return  for  their  kindness, 
Elekana  set  to  work  to  instruct  them  in  the  knowledge  of 
the  true  God,  and  told  them  of  the  Saviour  whom  he  had 
learned  to  love  and  trust.  They  manifested  a  great  desire 
and  aptitude  to  learn,  and  applied  themselves  with  the 
utmost  diligence  while  he  remained  among  them,  and  they 
consented  to  liis  leaving  them  after  four  months,  only  on 
condition  that  he  should  go  to  Samoa  and  return  to  them 
with  a  teacher.  He  promised  that,  should  God  spare  his 
life,  and  furnish  him  ^\dth  the  opportunity  of  returning,  he 
would  do  so,  and  now  he  was  returning  according  to  his 
promise. 

Our  voyage  was  made  in  the  "  Augustita,"  a  trading 
vessel  of  about  fifty  tons  burden.  We  sailed  from  Apia 
on  the  3d  of  May  1865,  and  directed  our  course  towards 
the  island  on  which  the  shipwrecked  party  landed  four 
years  before — Nukulaelae.  Our  party  consisted  of  two 
Samoan  teachers  and  their  wives,  and  Elekana,  who  was 
unmarried. 

The  island,  or  rather  group — for  ISTukulaelae  is  one  of  a 
group  of  small  islands,  seven  or  eight  in  number — lies  in 
lat.  9°  18'  S.  and  long.  179°  48'  E.  It  is  caUed  Mitchell's 
Group  on  the  charts.  It  is  about  600  miles  distant  from 
Savaii,  the  most  westerly  island  of  the  Samoan  group. 


A  DISTRESSING  CHANGE.  381 

We  reached  our  destination  on  the  10th  of  May,  and 
came  to  anchor  outside  the  reef.  There  is  no  harbour,  and 
the  entrances  througli  the  reef  for  boats  are  of  a  very  indif- 
ferent character,  but  once  inside  the  beautiful  lagoon,  one 
is  all  right.  The  people  were  surprised  and  delighted  to 
see  their  old  friend  Elekana,  and  they  gave  us  all  a  hearty 
welcome ;  but  events  had  transpired  smce  18G1  which 
cast  a  sad  gloom  over  our  meeting.  At  that  time  there 
was  a  population  of  300,  a  peaceful,  harmless  community, 
wanting  just  one  thing  to  make  them  contented  and  haj)py, 
and  many  of  them  earnestly  desirous  of  being  put  in  pos- 
session of  that  one  thing.  Now  they  were  reduced  to  a 
remnant  considerably  under  one  hundred,  and  the  bulk  of 
these  were  women  and  children.  The  iniquitous  Peruvian 
slavers  came  upon  them  like  beasts  of  prey,  and  carried  off 
about  two  hundred  to  bondage  and  death.  Nowhere,  per- 
haps, did  these  infamous  men  act  more  basely  than  at  this 
and  the  neighbouring  group,  Funafuti.  They  first  endea- 
voured to  induce  the  people  to  go  with  them,  by  puttino- 
before  them  the  temporal  advantages  which  they  pretended 
they  would  gain  by  so  doing ;  and  when  they  found  that 
they  could  not  accomplish  their  object  in  that  way,  they, 
guided  by  a  wicked  fellow  who  had  resided  on  the  island 
some  time,  named  Tom  Eose,  took  advantage  of  the  desire 
that  existed  among  the  people  for  religious  instruction, 
telling  them  that,  if  they  would  go  with  them,  they  would 
take  them  to  a  place  where  they  would  learn  about  God 
and  religion,  and  after  a  time  bring  them  back  to  their 
own  land.  Tom  Eose  had  been  acting  as  a  sort  of  religious 
teacher,  and  he  was  going  to  ship  in  one  of  the  vessels. 
Hence  it  is  not  surprising  that  they  fell  into  the  trap  so 
cruelly  laid  for  them. 

Thus  was  this  base  transaction  accomplished,  and  these 
poor  people  deceived  away  from  their  quiet  homes.  Alas  ! 
for  them.      Surely  He  who  heareth  the  groaning  of  the 


382  AFFECTING  INCIDENT. 

prisoner,  and  deliveretli  them  wlio  are  appointed  to  die,  did 
not  forsake  them  in  the  hour  of  their  sore  affliction.  It  is 
an  affecting  and  deeply  interesting  fact  that  they  carried 
with  them  to  the  land  of  bondage,  as  their  most  prized 
treasures,  portions  of  the  Earotongan  New  Testament  and 
Hymn  Book,  which  they  had  obtained  from  Elekana. 
These  he  had  managed  to  save  when  he  and  his  com- 
panions were  cast  upon  their  shores,  and  so  eager  were 
the  people  to  learn  to  read,  and  to  become  acquainted  with 
the  truths  which  the  books  contained,  that  they  constrained 
him  to  take  them  to  pieces,  and  divide  them  out,  giving  a 
few  leaves  to  each,  as  far  as  they  would  go.  May  we  not 
hope  that  many  of  those  who  carried  with  them  these 
leaves  of  the  tree  of  life,  learned  from  them  to  know  and 
love  that  Saviour  who  confers  on  His  followers  a  freedom, 

"  Which  whoso  tastes  shall  be  enslaved  no  more." 

But  to  return  from  this  long  digression.  It  was  deeply 
affecting  to  mingle  with  the  small  number  of  people  whom 
we  found,  and  to  listen  to  their  mournful  tale.  As  Elekana 
put  the  question  to  one  after  another  among  the  women 
we  met,  "  Where  is  this  one  ?  and  where  is  the  other  ?  " 
the  unvarying  reply  was  : — "  Gone,  gone  ;  carried  away  by 
the  men-stealing  sliips." 

After  consulting  with  the  chief,  who,  being  an  old  man, 
had  been  rejected  by  the  slavers,  and  the  few  others  who 
remained,  and  finding  them  earnestly  desirous  of  having  a 
teacher,  I  determined  to  leave  with  them  one  of  the  three 
at  my  disposal,  notwithstanding  the  smallness  of  their 
number.  I  had  not  the  heart  to  refuse  their  application. 
We  hope,  moreover,  that  the  population  will  increase,  and 
a  deep  interest  will  always  attach  to  Nukulaelae,  as  the 
spot  from  which  the  movement  took  its  rise,  which  we 
believed  would  extend  to  all  the  islands  of  the  group  to 
which  it  belongs,  and  indeed  to  others  beyond.  And,  as 
will  hereafter  appear,  this  hope  has  been  fully  realised. 


THE  WAV  PREPARED.  383 

It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that,  a  number  of  years  before 
Elekana  was  conducted  to  the  group  in  so  remarkable  a 
manner,  the  people  of  it,  and  several  other  of  the  islands 
(groups)  with  which  it  is  connected,  had  burnt  their  idols 
and  ceased  to  be  idolaters.  Hence  the  j^repared  state  in 
which  he  found  them,  and  the  cordial  welcome  which  he 
and  Ms  companions  received.  All  I  could  learn  respecting 
the  origin  of  a  movement  so  strange  among  a  heathen 
people  was,  that  the  master  of  a  trading  vessel,  named 


A   LAGOON   ISLAND. 


Stuart,  from  Sydney,  had  told  them  of  the  true  God 
and  advised  them  to  turn  from  idolatry,  and  worship  Him. 
All  honour  to  the  man  who,  at  this  and  other  islands  in 
the  neighbourhood,  sought  to  turn  the  benighted  people 
from  the  service  of  idols  to  that  of  the  living  God. 
It  is  a  vast  advantage  to  us  in  carrying  on  evangelistic 


384  DESCRIPTION  OF  NUKULAELAE. 

work  in  Nukulaelae  and  other  islands  beyond,  that  the 
language  differs  so  little  from  the  Samoan,  that  our  trans- 
lations of  the  Scriptures  and  other  books  are  available, 
and  that  our  teachers  are  able  to  speak  intelligibly  to  the 
people  almost  at  once.  Nukulaelae  is  the  largest  of  nine 
small  isles  {atolls  in  modern  phrase)  dotted  over  a  wide 
coral  reef  of  an  oblong  shape,  inside  of  which  is  a  beautiful 
lagoon.  The  whole  cover  a  space  of  only  about  four  and  a 
haK  or  five  miles  in  length,  by  two  and  a  half  in  breadth. 
The  islands  are  very  low,  not  more,  I  should  think,  than 
150  or  200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean  at  the  highest 
point.  Most  of  them  are  more  or  less  covered  with  cocoa- 
nuts,  and  at  a  distance  they  look  like  cocoa-nut  groves. 
They  are  charming  little  spots.  There  is  very  little  soil 
upon  them,  however,  so  that  the  natives  depend  chiefly  for 
their  subsistence  upon  fish  and  cocoa-nuts,  and  a  root 
which  they  manage  to  raise,  named  pulaha,  a  coarse  species 
of  taro.  They  have  also  bananas,  but  not  in  great  abun- 
dance. We  shall  have  something  to  say  about  the  people 
as  we  proceed.  Want  of  space  compels  us  to  pass  over 
other  interesting  particulars.  The  next  group  to  which  we 
were  bound  was 

FUNAFUTI. 

This  group  is  distant  from  Nukulaelae  about  sixty 
miles,  and  is,  I  suppose,  the  Ellice's  Group  of  the  charts.  It 
is  in  long.  179°  21'  E.,  and  lat.  8°  30'  S.  It  is  much  more 
extensive  than  Nukulaelae.  The  islets  are  thirty-one 
in  number,  and  cover  a  much  larger  space — at  least  four 
times  as  large.  Each  islet  has  a  name  of  its  own,  and 
Funafuti  is  the  general  name.  The  immense  reef  which 
forms  the  basis  of  the  islands  is  circular  in  form,  and  is  one 
of  the  finest  I  have  seen.  It  forms  a  magnificent  harbour, 
with  three  good  openings  through  which  vessels  of  any 
tonnage   may  safely  pass.     As   regards  productions  and 


WORKS  OF  DARKNESS— RA  YS  OF  LIGHT.      385 

the  like,  what  has  been  said  of  NukulaeLae  is  equally 
applicable  to  Funafuti. 

We  found  the  state  of  things  at  this  group  very  similar 
to  that  we  had  just  left,  both  as  regards  vidiat  is  pleasing 
and  painful.  The  slavers,  on  leaving  Nukulaelae,  came 
direct  here,  and,  sad  to  say,  they  succeeded  in  carrying 
off  one  hundred  and  eighty  persons.  They  had  Tom 
Eose  for  their  guide  and  interpreter,  and  they  adopted 
the  same  policy  as  at  the  other  group.  We  found  about 
one  hundred  remaining,  some  of  whom  were  saved,  we 
were  told,  through  the  exertions  of  a  white  man  living 
on  shore,  who  found  out  the  character  of  the  vessels  and 
warned  the  people.  Here,  as  at  the  other  group,  the 
remnant  consisted  chiefly  of  women  and  children. 

The  population  in  this  and  the  neighbouring  groups 
had  been  kept  down  in  the  days  of  heathenism  by  the 
practice  of  Foeticide,  and  occasional  infanticide.  Tlieir 
motive  for  these  was  one  of  policy.  They  were  genuine 
Malthusians.  They  feared  that  unless  the  population  was 
kept  down  they  would  not  have  sufficient  food.  When 
they  ceased  to  be  idolaters,  they  were  content  to  leave 
that  matter  in  the  hands  of  God. 

They  destroyed  their  idols  and  began  to  feel  after  the 
true  God,  at  the  same  time  as  their  neighbours,  and  by 
the  advice  of  the  same  party.  We  found  them  observing 
the  Sabbath,  and  having  some  sort  of  religious  services 
conducted  by  a  native  of  Tokelau.  From  Elekana  also 
they  had  learned  something,  as  he  was  at  their  group 
after  leaving  Nukulaelae,  on  his  way  to  Samoa. 

We  reached  the  anchorage  late  in  the  evening  of 
Saturday,  and  on  the  following  day.  May  the  14th,  we 
hastened  on  shore.  We  went  direct  to  the  house  of  the 
chief,  whose  name  was  Kaitu.  His  first  words  to  me 
were  striking  and  affectiuf? : — "  We  are  all  in  darkness 
here,"  said  he,  "  and  are  just  waiting  for  some  one  to  teach 

2b 


3<S6  A  JOYOUS  WELCOME. 

lis."  Of  course  I  told  liim  that  we  had  come  for  tlie 
purpose  of  bringing  some  one  to  teach  himself  and  his 
people.  I  need  not  say  that  the  teacher  Matitia  and 
his  wife  were  most  warmly  welcomed.  They  left  the 
ship  on  the  following  day,  and  took  up  their  abode  on 
Funafuti. 

The  people  set  to  Avork  at  once  to  learn  to  read,  and 
during  the  two  days  we  remained,  after  tlie  teacher  and 
his  wife  were  landed,  about  seventeen  had  mastered  the 
alphabet;  and  when  we  called  again  a  fortnight  after, 
on  our.  return  from  other  islands,  between  twenty  and 
thirty  were  able  to  read  a  little.  I  never  saw  a  people 
apply  themselves  with  such  energy  and  heartiness  as 
did  those  of  Funafuti.  Again  want  of  space  compels 
me  to  omit  many  interesting  particulars,  and  pass  on 
to  the  next  place  to  which  we  were  bound, — 

NUKUFETAU. 

This  group  (De  Peyster's  of  the  charts)  lies  in  lat.  7° 
51'  S.,  and  long.  178°  35'  E.  It  is  in  many  respects 
similar  to  Funafuti,  but  the  lagoon  is  smaller,  and  there 
are  not  so  many  islands.  We  found  the  people  in  very 
much  the  same  state  as  those  of  Nukulaelae  and  Funafuti, 
and  happily  the  slavers  had  succeeded  only  to  a  very 
small  extent  in  their  efforts  to  entrap  them.  By  some 
means  they  had  been  put  on  their  guard,  and  only  three 
were  captured,  and  two  of  these  escaped  at  the  island  of 
Eotuma,  and  found  their  way  back  to  their  own  land. 

Here,  as  elsewhere,  we  had  a  warm  welcome.  The 
report  of  what  had  been  done  at  tlie  other  islands,  in 
the  way  of  destroying  idols  and  abandoning  idolatry,  had 
reached  this  group,  and  they  had  followed  the  example 
of  their  neighbours,  and  for  years  tliey  had  been  feeling 
after  God,  and  worshipping  Him  according  to  their  little 


FEELING  AFTER  GOD.  387 

light.  They  had  built  a  large  chapel,  about  forty-five  feet 
in  length  by  forty  in  breadth,  a  very  good  house  con- 
sidering their  circumstances,  and  very  neat  and  clean  ;  and 
Sabbath  after  Sabbath  the  poor  people  were  accustomed 
to  meet  and  hold  a  sort  of  service.  There  was  a  platform 
on  which  tlie  party  conducting  the  ser^^ce  was  accustomed 
to  stand,  and  over  that  was  an  English  Bible  suspended, 
carefully  wrapped  up  in  a  cotton  handkerchief.  This 
they  were  accustomed  to  take  down,  and  spread  out 
open  before  the  person  officiating,  while  they  sang  or 
chanted  one  of  three  hymns,  which  some  visitor  or 
visitors  had  taught  them.  One  of  these  was  singularly 
inappropriate.  It  was  the  well-known  hymn  beginning, 
"When  I  can  read  my  title  clear."  Of  another,  the 
burden,  or  perhaps  the  chorus,  was  "Hallelujah,"  and 
the  third  was  in  the  Hawaiian  language.  But  how 
strange  to  find  a  people  in  their  circumstances  thus 
acting!  and  how  manifestly  was  our  way  prepared  and 
a  door  wide  and  effectual  set  before  us  !  I  had  reserved 
Elekana  for  this  island.  The  chief  and  people  gave  him  a 
cordial  reception,  and  we  left  him  in  encouraging  cii^cum- 
stances.  The  population  was  about  250  at  the  time  of  our 
visit.  Infanticide  had  been  discontinued  for  a  number  of 
years,  and,  so  far  as  I  know,  the  peoj)le  had  lived  in  peace 
from  their  first  settlement  on  the  island.  We  left  Nuku- 
fetau  on  the  24th  of  May,  and,  on  the  following  day,  we 
reached  the  next  island  to  which  we  were  bound, — 

VAITUPU. 

This  is  a  charming  little  spot.  It  is  in  lat.  7°  31'  S., 
and  long.  178°  46'  E.  It  is  a  single  island,  about  four 
miles  in  length  and  three  in  breadth.  There  is  a  salt- 
water lake  in  the  centre,  and  the  island  is  well  supplied 
with  fresh  water ;  and  in  this  and  other  respects  it  has  a 


388  INTERESTING  FACTS. 

pre-eminence  over  all  the  other  islands  of  the  group. 
These  all  regard  it  as,  in  a  secondary  sense,  their  father- 
land, inasmuch  as  it  is  the  spot  where  tlieir  Samoan 
ancestors  landed  and  found  a  home  more  than  two 
hundred  years  ago.  Of  this  fact,  which  of  course  invests 
the  island  with  a  very  special  interest,  the  tradition  is 
perfectly  clear  and  definite.  I  got  the  names  of  seventeen 
chiefs  who  had  successively  ruled  the  island  since  their 
ancestors  landed  upon  it.  These  came  to  it,  or  rather 
were  guided  to  it,  by  the  hand  of  God,  in  two  large  double 
canoes.  I  got  the  names  of  twenty-one  men  and  five 
women  who  reached  the  island  in  these  canoes.  There 
were  many  more  women,  but  my  informants  were  unable 
to  give  their  names.     There  were  also  two  children. 

On  many  points  of  interest  I  was  unable  to  obtain 
information.  What  part  of  Samoa  they  came  from,  where 
they  intended  to  go  when  they  left,  whether  any  died  at 
sea,  and  how  long  they  were  at  sea — these  and  many  other 
important  points  have  dropped  out  of  their  traditions, 
and  of  course  their  frankly  acknowledging  this  adds  to 
the  credibility  of  what  they  do  give. 

The  little  colony  remained  together  on  Vaitupu  till 
their  number  so  increased  that  it  became  necessary,  or  at 
least  was  thought  desirable,  to  hive  off  and  settle  upon 
other  islands  in  the  neighbourhood,  which  seem  to  have 
been  without  inhabitants  till  they  made  them  theii"  homes. 
Long  before  we  knew  anything  of  them  they  had  spread 
over  at  least  six  islands.  To  me,  as  a  Samoan  missionary, 
it  was  of  course  deeply  interesting  to  mingle  amongst  them, 
and  listen  to  the  accounts  they  had  to  give  of  themselves ; 
and  they  too  were  no  doubt  interested  in  hearing  about 
their  fatherland. 

I  found  the  people  of  Vaitupu  earnestly  desirous  to 
have  a  teacher — quite  as  much  so  as  those  of  the  more 
easterly  islands.     Like  them,  they  had   destroyed  their 


WAITING  FOR  LIGHT.  389 

idols  and  renounced  paganism,  and  they  were  observing 
the  Sabbath  after  a  fashion,  but  they  were  not  attempting 
to  keep  up  any  regular  service.  Some  foreigner,  who  had 
been  living  among  them,  had  taught  them  the  Lord's 
Prayer  in  English,  and  something  in  the  form  of  a  prayer 
in  their  own  language. 

One  intelligent-looking  man  made  some  very  interesting 
inquiries  about  the  origin  and  state  of  man,  and  matters 
of  kindred  import;  and  he  was  especially  anxious  to  be 
taught  lioiv  to  pray.  I  was  deeply  grieved  that  I  had  not 
a  teacher  to  leave  among  this  most  interesting  people.  I 
could  only  give  them  a  promise,  and  this,  I  am  happy  to 
say,  was  not  long  unfulfilled. 

The  next  and  last  island  visited  during  this  voyage 
was, — 

NUI. 

This  island  (Netherland  Island  of  the  charts)  is  in  lat. 
7°  15'  S.,  and  long.  177°  7'  E.  As  we  drew  near  the  island, 
canoes  met  us,  and  the  first  words  we  heard  were  the  fol- 
lowing, in  English,  from  a  young  man  in  one  of  them  : 
"  Is  this  the  ship  with  the  missionaries  ?  "  A  report  had, 
by  some  means,  gone  before  us,  that  missionaries  might 
soon  be  expected,  and  the  people  seemed  full  of  the  idea. 
Hence  their  inquiry  was  not,  "  Have  you  come  to  trade 
with  us  ?" — but  virtually — "Have  you  come  to  bring  us  the 
words  of  eternal  life  ? "  In  their  case,  as  in  that  of  their 
neighbours,  the  words  of  inspiration — "  The  isles  shall 
wait  for  His  law  " — had  a  literal  fulfilment.  And  so 
began  our  connection  with  this  charming  little  island, 
whose  subsequent  history  equals  in  interest  anything  to 
be  found  in  the  annals  of  our  South  Sea  missions. 

There  is  no  anchorage,  and  it  was  near  sundown  when 
we  got  near  the  land ;  so  we  were  obliged  to  stand  off  for 
the  night,  while  our  new  acquaintances  returned  to  the 


390  NUI  AND  ITS  SURROUNDINGS. 

shore  with  the  welcome  news.  Early  on  the  foUowmg 
morning,  canoes  were  again  off  to  us,  in  one  of  which  was 
our  young  friend  of  the  evening  before.  He  brought  a 
present  from  the  cliief — three  ducks,  a  basket  of  taro,  and 
a  dozen  cocoa-nuts — with  a  request  that  I  would  go  on 
shore.  To  the  shore,  of  course,  I  went  with  all  practicable 
speed.  ISTui  consists  of  two  larger  islands  and  six  islets, 
with  a  lagoon  in  the  centre.  It  is  a  pretty  little  spot — a 
gem  on  the  ocean's  breast,  with  rather  a  rough  and  for- 
midable, though  grand  setting.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
reef,  over  which  the  sea  breaks  heavily,  and  there  is  no 
opening  in  the  reef  The  natives,  however,  are  thoroughly 
accustomed  to  it,  and  have  their  canoes  so  constructed  as 
to  be  suitable  for  riding  in  on  the  crest  of  a  wave.  They 
manage  most  dexterously ;  just  waiting  at  a  safe  distance 
for  the  opportune  moment,  and,  seizing  that,  they  shoot 
over  the  reef,  and  are  soon  in  smooth  water,  the  only 
inconvenience  suffered  by  the  uninitiated  being  a  little 
fright,  and  perhaps  a  wetting.  This  is  the  style  of  things 
at  many  islands  in  the  South  Seas,  but  ISTui  is  the  most 
perfect  example  which  I  have  seen  of  an  island  entirely 
surrounded  by  a  large  reef  without  any  break,  and  a  very 
heavy  surf  ordinarily  rolling  over  it.  At  aU  such  islands 
which  I  have  visited,  I  have  found  nothing  equal  to  the 
native  canoe,  managed  entirely  by  natives.  "With  them, 
in  their  own  canoes,  I  would  not  hesitate  to  go  where  I 
should  tremble  to  go  in  the  best  whale-boat  with  a  crew 
of  white  men. 

My  reception  on  shore  was  in  keeping  with  what  had 
gone  before.  Kauie,  the  chief,  whom  I  found  a  most 
interesting  man,  gave  me  a  very  hearty  welcome,  and 
with  him  and  the  people  my  intercourse  was  of  the  most 
satisfactory  character.  As  at  the  other  islands,  the  idols 
had  been  destroyed,  and,  for  about  five  years,  the  people 
had  been,  according  to  their  measure  of  light,  worshippers 


AN  ODD  CHARACTER.  391 

of  the  true  God,  and  waiting  and  longing  for  some  one  to 
instruct  them  fully  in  the  knowledge  of  Divine  things. 
For  about  four  years,  a  man  who  resided  among  them  as 
an  oil-cKjent  (that  is,  a  purchaser  of  cocoa-nut  oil  for  some 
trader  or  merchant)  had  conducted  some  sort  of  services, 
and  taught  some  of  them  to  read,  and  even  to  write  a 
little. 

Boh,  as  he  was  called,  seems  to  have  been  a  very  odd 
character  to  set  up  for  a  religious  teacher.  He  had  two 
wives,  and  was  guilty  of  other  glaring  inconsistencies  ;  but 
he  had  the  rather  rare  honesty  to  tell  the  people  that  his 
conduct  was  wrong,  and  to  admonish  them  to  do  as  he 
said,  not  as  he  did.  He  had  left  the  island  when  we 
arrived,  but  in  many  ways  he  had  left  his  mark  behind 
him.  He  had  outdone  all  the  adventurers  of  similar 
stamp  of  whom  I  have  heard  in  the  course  of  my  voyagings. 
He  went  the  length  of  haptizing  some  parties,  and  he 
was  careful  to  make  all  turn  to  his  own  temporal  advan- 
tage. A  system  of  fines  for  misdemeanours,  real  or 
supposed  as  Bob  chose  to  decide,  was  imposed.  The 
lines  were  paid  in  cocoa-nut  oil,  and  they  were  his 
perquisite,  and  of  course  the  oil  was  quite  in  his  line, 
and  it  is  likely  he  took  care  to  make  the  fines  pretty 
heavy;  and  there  is  no  doubt  he  managed  to  serve 
himself  of  the  people  in  other  ways  besides  the  fines. 
We  shall  come  across  Bob  again  as  we  proceed,  and 
unhappily  see  him  in  a  more  unfavourable  light  than  that  in 
which  he  now  appears.     So  we  leave  him  for  the  present. 

The  people  of  Nui  are  a  difterent  race  to  those  of  all 
the  other  islands  of  the  range  to  which  it  belongs.  These, 
as  we  have  seen,  are  from  Samoa.  Nui  was  peopled  from 
the  Kingsmill  group.  About  seven  generations  back, 
the  people  say,  their  ancestors  came  in  two  canoes 
from  Tapitoouea  (Drummond's  Island)  and  Nanouch, 
a  neighbouring  island  of  the  group.     They  are  said  to  have 


392  A  SINGULAR  MOVEMENT. 

been  weary  of  the  frequent  wars  that  were  being  carried 
on  in  their  native  lands,  and  they  determined  to  go  in 
search  of  some  spot  on  which  they  might  live  in  peace — 
an  interesting  and  singular  movement  for  a  people  in  such 
circumstances  —  a  sort  of  Pilgrim-fatlier  movement  on 
a  very  small  scale,  though  lacking  of  course  the  grand 
distinguishing  element  that  marked  that. 

They  set  out  on  their  adventurous  voyage,  and  God 
led  them  to  a  home  where  they  and  their  descendants 
have  lived  in  peace  to  the  present  day;  and,  of  all  the 
many  tribes  of  Polynesia  with  whom  it  has  been  my 
lot  to  have  intercourse,  I  have  found  none  more  engaging 
than  the  people  of  ISTui.  They  numbered  about  300,  as 
nearly  as  I  could  ascertain  at  this  time.  They  are  a  fine, 
noble-looking  race,  and  very  industrious,  as,  according  to 
the  testimony  of  an  oil-agent  who  was  living  among  them, 
they  were  making  as  much  as  sixty  tons  of  oil  annually 
for  sale. 

I  was  grieved  that  I  had  no  teaclier  to  leave.  I  could 
only  say  that  two  young  men  whom  Bob  had  appointed 
to  conduct  services,  and  who  were  very  well  reported  of, 
had  better  just  go  on  till  a  teacher  should  arrive  from 
Samoa.  I  was  surprised  to  find  books  among  the  people 
in  their  own  language.  These  had  been  sent  by  the 
Eev.  H.  Bingham  of  the  American  mission  to  Micronesia 
from  the  Sandwich  Islands.  The  books  consisted  of 
spelling-books,  hjTiin-books,  and  the  Gospels  of  John  and 
Matthew. 

Nui  was  tlic  limit  of  our  present  cruise.  So  having 
finished  our  business  there,  we  commenced  our  return 
voyage,  and  got  back  to  Samoa  on  the  21st  of  June, 
having  been  absent  seven  weeks  all  but  one  day. 

So  ended  this  remarkable  voyage.  Island  after  island 
we  had  found  prepared  to  our  hand ;  doors  wide  open ; 
people  waiting  to  welcome  us  as  if  they  already  knew  the 


THE  DOING  OF  THE  LORD.  393 

preciousness  of  the  treasure  of  which  we  were  the  bearers. 
How  different  to  what  is  generally  found  on  first  visits  to 
lieathen  lands  !  What  it  usually  requires  years  of  toil  and 
suffering,  and,  not  seldom,  the  sacrifice  of  valuable  lives  to 
accomplish,  we  found  already  done.  No  weary  night  of 
toil  had  gone  before,  and  yet  the  day  had  dawned ;  the 
night  of  lieathenism  was  past,  and  the  first  rays  of  the 
Sun  of  Eighteousness  had  appeared — sure  precursors  of  a 
glorious  day.  We  will  not,  however,  anticipate,  but  close 
our  notice  of  the  first  missionary  voyage  to  these  regions 
with  ascribing  the  praise  of  all  to  Him  to  whom  it 
belonsfs. 


394  ) 


CHAPTER  XLVII. 

THE  HAND  OF   GOD  AGAIN   UPON   US — VISIT  OF   THE  "  DAYSPRING  " — CALL  AT 

THE    TOKELAU     AND    ELLICE's    GROUPS CONVEYANCE    OF    TEACHERS     TO 

VAITUPU  AND  NUI — VISIT  TO  TDTUILA  AND  MANUA — A  SECOND  VOYAGE 
TO  THE  ELLICE's  GROUP — ARRIVAL  AT  NUKULAELAE — TOUCHING  IN- 
CIDENTS  REMARKABLE  ESCAPE  OF  A  NATIVE  FROM  A  SLAVE-SHIP — SIGNS 

OF  SPIRITUAL  LIFE AN  INTERESTING  SABBATH REMARKABLE  PRESERVA- 
TION FROM  SHIPWRECK — FUNAFUTI — WONDERFUL  PROGRESS — VAITUPU 
— GREAT  ADVANCEMENT — THE  FIRST  CHURCH-GOING  BELL  IN  ELLICE'S 
GROUP — STATE  OF  THE  MISSION  ON  NUKUFETAU — FROM  LIGHT  TO  DARK- 
NESS— THE  CAPTAIN  OF  A  SLAVE-SHIP  BAFFLED — A  HORRID  TRAGEDY 
— UNAUTHORISED  PUNISHMENT — VISIT  TO  NANOMEA— CURIOUS  CUS- 
TOMS— PREFERRING  DARKNESS  TO  LIGHT — OBJECTS  OF  -WORSHIP  AND 
SACKED  RELICS — VISIT  TO  NUI — WONDERFUL  PROGRESS — PLEASANT 
INTERCOURSE  WITH  THE  NATIVES CLOSE  OF  THE  VOYAGE. 

I  HAD  the  satisfaction  to  find  all  going  on  encouragingly 
at  home  on  my  return  from  my  voyage,  and  so  it  con- 
tinued to  be  in  both  districts  throughout  the  remainder 
of  this  year.  As  a  mission  the  hand  of  God  was  again 
upon  us.  On  the  28th  of  Angust,  Mrs  Scott  of  the 
Tutuila  mission,  who  had  been  but  a  few  months  in  the 
field,  and  who,  in  as  far  as  appearances  went,  might 
have  been  expected  to  have  had  a  long  and  useful  course, 
was  taken  from  us.  She  died  after  a  few  weeks'  illness, 
leaving  her  husband,  who  was  just  recovering  from  an 
illness  which  very  nearly  brought  him  to  the  grave,  with 
an  infant  a  few  months  old. 

In  the  month  of  October  we  were   favoured  with  a 


VALUABLE  HELP  FROM  THE  "DAVSPLHNC."     395 

visit  from  the  "  Dayspring."  This  visit  was  specially 
opportune,  as  we  were  still  without  a  ship  of  our  own, 
and  were  having  great  difficulty  in  obtaining  vessels  in 
which  to  make  visits  to  our  out-stations.  The  "  Day- 
spring"  had  come  to  convey  to  their  homes  Earotongan 
and  Samoan  teachers  who  had  been  labouring  on  the 
Loyalty  Islands,  but  had  been  compelled  by  the  French 
authorities  in  New  Caledonia  to  desist  from  their  work. 
And,  in  addition  to  rendering  us  this  important  service, 
she  did  for  us  another  great  favour.  On  her  return  voyage 
to  the  New  Hebrides  she  called  at  Fakaofo  and  Atahu  of 
the  Tokelau  group,  and  at  several  islands  of  the  Ellice's 
group,  thus  enabling  us  to  communicate  with  the  teachers, 
and  to  fulfil  the  promise  I  had  made  to  the  people  of 
Vaitupu  and  Nui.  To  each  of  these  islands  a  teacher 
and  his  wife  were  now  taken,  and  so  our  minds  were 
relieved  with  reference  to  that  matter. 

Nothing  out  of  the  usual  course  occurred  during  the 
early  months  of  1866.  Our  missionary  and  other  con- 
tributions were  large,  and  all  went  on  hopefully.  From 
the  two  districts  we  had  for  the  London  Missionary  Society 
£255,  5s.,  and  for  home  we  had  at  Apia  £144,  15s.  2d. 
The  amount  raised  for  that  in  the  other  district  I  have 
not  noted,  but  it  would  probably  be  about  £100.  The 
people  of  that  district  were  fewer  in  number  than  those 
of  the  other,  and  they  were  less  favourably  circumstanced 
for  obtaining  money. 

In  the  month  of  November  1865,  the  Tutuila  mission- 
aries, Messrs  Powell  and  Scott,  left  on  a  visit  to  England, 
and  from  that  time  Tutuila  had  not  been  visited  by  any 
missionary ;  and,  after  our  May  meetings  this  year,  it 
was  arranged  that  we  should  embrace  the  earliest  eligible 
opportunity  to  proceed  to  that  island,  to  spend  a  few 
weeks  among  the  people  of  our  first  charge. 

After    long   waiting    and    many    disappointments,   we 


396  VISIT  TO  TUTUILA  AND  MANUA. 

were  enabled  to  carry  out  the  arrangement  in  a  very 
unexpected  manner.  H.M.S.  of  war  "  Brisk,"  Captain  Hope, 
commander,  called  at  Apia.  He  was  made  acquainted 
with  our  wish  to  visit  Tutuila,  and  very  kindly  offered 
Mrs  Murray  and  myself  a  passage  thither.  The  offer  was 
gratefully  accepted,  and  on  the  17th  of  July  we  sailed. 
We  went  direct  to  Pangopango,  which  we  reached  on 
the  19th.  There  Mrs  Murray  was  left,  and  Captain 
Hope  did  us  the  great  additional  favour  of  going  on  to 
Manua,  and  affording  me  the  opportunity  of  visiting  the 
people  there.  I  had  a  special  reason  for  wishing  to  get 
to  Manua.  Tor  a  length  of  time  there  had  been  war 
between  the  two  political  parties  into  which  the  little 
community  is  divided  (the  population  is  about  1400), 
and  I  was  anxious  to  make  an  effort  to  get  the  difficulties 
adjusted  and  peace  restored.  Captain  Hope  and  Mr 
J.  C.  Williams,  British  consul  for  Samoa,  who  was  with 
us,  lent  all  the  assistance  in  their  power,  and  we  had  the 
satisfaction  of  accomplishing  our  object.  The  war  was 
declared  at  an  end,  and  peace  continued  for  some  time, 
though  it  was  again  disturbed  by  some  restless  spirits 
ere  a  very  great  while.  After  spending  an  interesting 
Sabbath  with  the  Earotongan  teacher  Taunga,  and  the 
people,  we  returned  to  Tutuila. 

We  spent  three  Sabbaths  in  the  Pangopango  district. 
We  were,  of  course,  fully  occupied  with  the  various  duties 
to  the  discharge  of  which  missionaries  in  such  circum- 
stances are  called — conferring  with  teachers,  and  aiding, 
advising,  and  encouraging  them  in  their  work  ;  conversing 
with  candidates,  preaching,  dispensing  medicine,  &c.,  &c. 
I  conversed  with  seventy  candidates,  forty-nine  of  whom 
were  received  to  the  church.     Many  were  re-admissious. 

It  would  be  interesting  to  linger  over  and  dwell  upon 
our  visit  to  this,  the  place  of  our  first  labours,  and  connected 
with  which  are  memories  so  hallowed,  and  associations  so 


ANOTHER  VOYAGE  TO  ELLICES  GROUP.       397 

precious ;  but  space  forbids;  nor,  of  course,  can  strangers  be, 
expected,  except  to  a  very  limited  extent,  to  share  the 
feelings  of  the  writer.  Our  own  feelings,  indeed,  were  of  a 
very  mingled  character ;  still  we  enjoyed  our  visit,  and  it 
was  appreciated  by  the  people,  and  the  end  appeared  to 
be  in  a  good  degree  answered. 

At  Leone  we  spent  also  three  Sabbaths.  There  we 
were  occupied  in  the  same  way  as  at  Pangopango,  and 
with  similar  results.  The  candidates  were  sixty-seven  in 
number,  and  fifty-one  were  received  into  the  church. 

On  the  11th  of  September  we  bade  adieu  to  Tutuila,  and 
on  the  following  morning  reached  our  own  home  at  Apia ; 
not,  however,  to  remain  there  a  great  while,  for  another 
voyage  was  projected  shortly  after  our  return.  It  was  felt 
to  be  important  that  our  newly-formed  missions  in  the 
Ellice's  group  should  not  be  long  left,  and  that  our  efforts 
should  be  extended  to  the  other  islands  of  that  group  as 
soon  as  that  might  be  practicable ;  and  in  October  of  this 
year  the  wished-for  opportunity  offered.  A  vessel,  the 
"  Susanne  "  of  Hamburgh,  was  going  on  a  trading  voyage 
to  the  group,  and  in  her  I  obtained  a  passage.  She  was  a 
comfortable  vessel,  over  200  tons  burden — a  vast  improve- 
ment upon  the  little  "  Augustita." 

We  sailed  from  Samoa  on  the  19th  of  October,  and 
reached  Nukulaelae  on  the  1st  of  November.  I  found  the 
teacher  Joane  and  his  wife  all  right ;  and  from  them  and 
the  people,  received  a  joyful  welcome,  and  the  intercourse 
I  had  with  them  was  of  a  very  pleasing  character.  The 
doings  of  the  infamous  slavers  could  not  be  forgotten,  but 
the  feelings  of  sadness  occasioned  by  the  remembrance  of 
these  were  relieved  by  feelings  of  a  very  different  character. 
Among  the  little  remnant  whom  God's  mercy  had  saved 
from  the  grasp  of  the  destroyer,  I  found  what  it  had  no* 
occurred  to  me  to  expect  at  so  early  a  stage  of  the  mission, 
— satisfactory  evidence  that  some  had  passed  from  death 


393  A  GOOD  SAMARITAN. 

nnto  life.  I  conversed  individually  with  seven,  and  was 
satisfied  that  five,  at  least,  were  genuine  disciples  of  Christ. 
One  of  these,  a  man  named  Faivaatala,  deserves  particular 
notice  on  account  of  the  remarkable  character  of  his  reli- 
gious experience,  and  the  part  he  acted  towards  Elekana 
and  his  companions  when  they  were  cast  upon  the  shores 
of  Nukulaelae.  To  them  he  acted  to  the  life  the  part  of 
the  good  Samaritan.  He  had  occasion  to  visit  the  island, 
Tumuiloto,  on  which  they  landed,  on  the  morning  after  the 
memorable  night  when  they  made  the  land.  Passing  near 
the  spot  where  they  were,  his  attention  was  attracted  by 
seeing  articles  of  wearing  apparel  on  the  bushes.  Going 
down  to  the  beach,  he  found  a  man  dead  lying  on  the  sand. 
He  stripped  off  his  own  shirt  and  wrapped  it  around  the 
body,  and  removed  it  a  little  inland.  The  survivors 
were  soon  found,  and  their  affecting  tale  told.  The 
situation  was  such  as  would  have  moved  a  much  less 
feeling  heart  than  that  of  Faivaatala.  They  were  in  a 
famishing  state.  Cocoa-nuts  were  hanging  over  their 
heads,  but  none  of  them  had  strength  sufficient  to  reach 
them,  and,  but  for  tlie  timely  arrival  of  the  hospitable 
stranger,  it  seems  as  if  they  must  have  perished  for  want 
with  plenty  before  their  eyes.  Of  course,  no  time  was  lost 
in  supplying  them  with  cocoa-nuts  ;  and,  that  done, 
Faivaatala  proceeded  to  get  food  cooked  for  them,  after 
which  he  went  for  help  and  canoes  in  order  to  get  them  to 
the  settlement.  AVhen  he  returned,  a  grave  was  dug  and 
the  dead  buried,  and  then  all  proceeded  to  Motutala,  the 
island  on  which  the  people  generally  live. 

Faivaatala  and  Elekana  became  at  once  fast  friends,  and 
their  friendship  was  no  doubt  a  mutual  benefit.  The 
native  learned  from  the  stranger  something  of  the  way  of 
salvation,  and  the  truths  he  learned  seemed  to  have  taken 
a  firm  hold  of  his  mind.  About  two  months  after  my 
first  visit,  he  went  to  Joane,  the  teacher,  with  the  all- 


A  DEEPLY  INTERESTING  SABBATH.  399 

important  question,  "  How  can  sin  be  forgiven,  and  man 
find  peace  with  God  ? "  The  way  of  acceptance  with  God 
was  explained  to  him ;  he  seemed  to  understand  it  and  to 
embrace  the  Saviour,  and,  with  his  wife,  whose  case  was 
about  as  satisfactory  as  his  owti,  he  strives  to  serve  and 
follow  Him  who  has  called  him  out  of  darkness  into  His 
marvellous  light. 

We  spent  a  deeply  interesting  Sabbath  at  the  island. 
The  people  appeared  to  listen  to  the  preaching  of  the 
gospel  as  for  their  lives,  and  it  was  a  delightful  privilege 
to  unfold  to  them  the  truths  which  they  seemed  so  much 
to  prize.  Not  the  least  interesting  part  of  the  day's  en- 
gagements was  the  Sabbath-school.  There  were  twenty- 
nine  children  present.  The  progress  they  had  made  was 
surprising.  Little  boys  and  girls  not  only  read  the  Samoan 
Bible  with  fluency,  but  turned  up  readily  chapter  and 
verse  as  well  as  hymns  in  the  Samoan  hymn-book.  There 
had  been  a  slight  increase  in  the  population  since  my 
former  visit ;  a  number  of  years  must  pass  before  it  be 
very  considerable,  but  everything  seemed  to  promise  fair 
for  a  steady  increase.  There  were  now  a  few  settlers  on 
the  island,  and  the  whole  number,  including  these,  was 
ninety-two.  God  grant  that  tlie  little  one  may  yet  become 
a  thousand,  and  the  small  one  a  strong  nation ! 

We  had  one  of  the  narrowest  escapes  from  being  ship- 
wrecked before  we  left  the  island  that  I  have  ever  had 
during  all  my  voyaging.  The  vessel  was  becalmed  one 
night  near  the  reef,  and  a  strong  current  M^as  setting  in 
ujjon  it.  Notwithstanding  all  the  efforts  that  could  be 
made  with  boats,  the  vessel  kept  steadily  drifting  On  till 
our  danger  Ijecame  most  imminent.  We  were  so  near  as 
to  hear  the  roar  of  the  dreadful  breakers,  and  in  ten  minutes 
or  a  quarter  of  an  hour  we  should  have  been  amongst  them, 
but  for  a  most  marvellous  interposition  of  Providence.  All 
that  man  could  do  had  been  done,  and  with  intense  anxiety 


400         NARROW  ESCAPE  FROM  SHIPWRECK. 

we  were  awaiting  the  dreaded  issue.  It  was  a  dead  calm, 
and  the  vessel  and  the  boats  which  were  towing  ahead 
were  being  carried  noiselessly  but  surely  on  towards  the  reef, 
when  God  mercifully  interposed.  A  dark  cloud  hung  over 
the  land,  and  out  of  that  dark  cloud  deliverance  came.  Oh, 
what  a  relief ! — no  words  can  express  it — when  the  sails 
filled  and  our  good  ship  glided  away,  leaving  the  terrible 
breakers  astern.  Had  we  got  amongst  them  the  ship 
would,  in  all  probability,  have  soon  gone  to  pieces,  and  we 
should  have  been  in  great  danger.  "We  were  a  long  way 
from  the  shore,  and,  as  it  was  night,  nothing  was  known 
there  of  our  circumstances  ;  so  we  should  have  been  left 
to  our  own  resources,  which,  under  the  circumstances, 
would  probably  not  have  been  of  much  avail. 

At  Funafuti,  which  we  reached  on  the  10th  of  November, 
I  found  an  equally  pleasing  state  of  things  as  at  Nuku- 
laelae.  The  progress  that  had  been  made  was  amazing. 
It  was  difficult  to  realise  the  fact  that  only  eighteen 
months  had  passed  since  the  introduction  of  the  gospel  to 
the  island.  Here,  as  at  Nukulaelae,  I  had  the  privilege 
of  spending  a  Sabbath,  and  how  striking  was  the  contrast 
between  that  Sabbath  and  the  one  I  spent  on  the  island 
in  May  1865  !  Then  the  chief  received  me  with  the 
touching  words,  "  We  are  all  in  darkness  here  ; "  now  the 
darkness  was  past  and  the  true  light  shone ;  and  some,  I 
believe,  had  not  only  come  to  the  light,  but  had  also  found 
the  life. 

A  neat  little  stone  chapel  had  been  built.  It  was 
furnished  throughout  with  seats,  and  had  Venetian 
windows  and  doors ;  the  floor  was  covered  with  beautiful, 
clean  mats,  and  everything  looked  so  neat  and  tidy.  The 
roof  was  ornamented  with  various  devices,  and  all  had 
evidently  been  the  work  of  willing  hands. 

I  need  hardly  remark  that  our  services  were  interesting 
and  delightful.     How,  under  the  circumstances,  could  they 


WONDERFUL  RESULTS.  40 r 

be  otlierwise  ?  Many  very  pleasant  Sabbaths  have  I 
enjoyed  during  my  numerous  voyages  among  the  "  isles 
of  the  sea,"  but  few  have  exceeded  in  interest  tliose 
spent  during  the  present  voyage  on  Nukulaelae  and 
Funafuti. 

The  Sabbath-school  was  in  keeping  with  other  things. 
There  were  thirty  children  present — all  on  the  island  who 
were  of  an  age  to  attend.  They  were  divided  into  classes 
taught  by  natives  of  the  island,  and  they  manifested  a 
degree  of  intelligence  truly  surprising. 

On  Monday  I  conversed  with  thirty  persons  who  j)ro- 
fessed  themselves  disciples  of  Christ,  and  at  least  one-half 
of  them  appeared  to  be  Christians  indeed ;  and  what  a  con- 
sideration is  this ! — what  a  result  from  only  eighteen  months' 
labour !  The  whole  community  seemed  largely  under  the 
influence  of  the  gospel.  Every  family  had  its  altar,  from 
which  arose,  morning  and  evening,  the  voice  of  prayer  and 
praise  ;  and  the  moral  state  of  the  people,  so  far  as  I  could 
ascertain,  was  in  keeping  with  their  profession  and  obser- 
vance of  religious  duties.  Polygamy,  and  other  remnants  of 
heathenism  which  lingered  among  the  people  when  the 
gospel  was  introduced,  had  vanished.  "  Old  things  had 
passed  away,"  and,  externally  at  least,  "  all  things  had  be- 
come new." 

Over  fifty  persons,  out  of  a  community  numbering  only 
a  little  more  than  one  hundred,  had  learned  to  read — many 
of  them  intelligently  and  fluently.  How  some  of  the  old 
])eople  had  accomplished  this  feat  seemed  surprising.  But 
there  was  the  "  will,"  and  as  a  consequence  the  "  way  "  was 
found.  The  desire  for  books,  especially  for  the  book, 
was  very  great.  Ten  copies  of  the  Samoan  Bible  had 
been  sent  to  this  island,  and  an  equal  number  to  Nuku- 
laelae, some  time  before  my  visit,  and  they  had  all  been 
bought  up,  and  the  people  were  longing  for  a  further  supply. 

2c 


402  REMARKABLE  PROGRESS. 

Hymn-books  also,  and  other  books,  were  purchased  readily. 
School-books  and  detached  portions  of  Scripture  were  (jiven 
to  those  who  were  able  to  turn  them  to  account. 

At  our  next  place  of  call,  which,  on  this  occasion,  was 
Vaitupu,  we  found  a  state  of  things  equally  remarkable. 
The  teacher  Peni  and  his  wife,  whom  we  found  on  the 
island,  had  been  conveyed  thither  by  the  "  Dayspring " 
towards  the  close  of  1865.  They  reached  their  destination 
at  the  beginning  of  November,  so  they  had  now  been  on  the 
island  only  a  little  over  twelve  months,  and  the  results  were 
truly  marvellous.  The  population  of  the  island,  I  found, 
was  a  little  over  400,  and  the  number  who  were  able  to  read 
was  58  men,  59  women,  48  boys,  and  36  girls.  A  few  of 
these  had  been  on  Nui  for  some  time  before  the  arrival  of 
the  teacher,  and  had  learned  to  read  there.  Of  these,  there 
were  twenty- four  who  had  the  start  of  their  countrymen, 
and  who,  no  doubt,  lent  valuable  help  to  Peni.  It  is  a 
pleasing  fact,  moreover,  that  among  tliese  were  some  who 
afforded  satisfactory  evidence  that  they  had  found  some- 
thing more  precious  than  mere  knowledge.  I  conversed 
individually  with  fourteen,  all  of  whom  were  decidedly 
hopeful,  and  six  of  them  were  of  the  party  who  had  been 
on  Nui.  The  said  party  were  my  fellow-voyagers  for  four 
days  from  Nui  to  Punafuti  in  1865.  Little  did  I  then 
imagine  that  I  should  so  soon  meet  them  in  circumstances 
so  different. 

During  the  short  time  the  teaclier  had  been  among  them 
they  had  built  a  good,  substantial  chapel,  sixty  feet  in 
length,  and  forty  in  breadth,  and  a  house  for  the  teacher, 
nearly  as  large,  which  must  have  cost  them  a  great  deal  of 
labour,  as  it  was  weather-boarded  throughout,  and  they  had 
no  pit-saw.  The  teacher  wished  them  to  enclose  his  house, 
as  they  had  done  the  chapel,  with  the  pandanus  leaf,  but 
this  they  would  not  do.     Enclosing  the  chapel  as  they  did 


INTERESTING  PURCHASE.  403 

was  a  temporary  expedient.  The  leaves  were  to  be  replaced, 
as  soon  as  that  might  be  practicable,  by  stone,  or  rather 
block-coral,  and  lime. 

All  that  has  been  said  relative  to  the  moral  and  reli- 
gious state  of  the  people  of  Niikulaelae  and  Funafuti  is 
equally  applicable  to  tliose  of  Vaitupu,  and  need  not  be 
repeated.  I  was  sorry  that  I  did  not  have  a  Sabbath  at 
the  island,  but  I  had  to  regulate  my  movements  by  tliose 
of  the  vessel,  and  over  these  I  had  no  control. 

During  our  stay  a  very  interesting  purchase  was  made 
by  the  people.  They  bought  from  the  supercargo  of  our 
vessel  a  Ml,  for  which  they  paid  in  cash  and  produce  £16, 
16s.  It  was  a  noble  bell,  as  it  was  entitled  to  be,  con- 
sidering the  price  that  was  paid  for  it ;  and  now,  instead 
of  the  harsh  sounds  of  the  conch-shell,  there  would  be 
"  the  sound  of  the  church-going  bell,"  summoning  the  little 
community  to  their  house  of  prayer. 

From  Vaitupu  we  proceeded  to  Nukufetau,  distant 
thirty-five  miles.  We  found  our  old  friend  Elekana  well, 
and  prosecuting  his  work  with  much  zeal  and  diligence ; 
but  I  was  sorry  to  find  in  his  field  of  labour  a  less  satis- 
factory state  of  things  than  that  of  the  neighbouring  islands. 
It  was  less  advanced  at  the  outset,  and  so  it  continued. 
But  for  the  extraordinary  progress  that  had  been  made  on 
the  other  islands,  we  should  have  been  well  pleased  with 
what  we  found  on  it ;  but  it  suffered  by  comparison  with 
them.  Polygamy  and  other  heathenish  practices  had  been 
abandoned,  as  on  the  other  islands.  The  whole  population 
were  professedly  Christian,  and,  externally,  they  had  much 
in  common  with  their  neighbours ;  but,  as  regards  intelli- 
gence and  decisive  indications  that  the  truth  was  taking 
hold  of  then*  hearts,  there  was  a  marked  difference.  I  con- 
versed individually  with  thirteen  persons  who  professed  to 
be  seeking  salvation  in  earnest,  but  all  were  unsatisfactory. 


404  FROM  LIGHT  TO  DARKNESS. 

I  trust,  however,  that  though  then-  views  were  vague  and 
dark,  they  were  sincere,  and  that  ultimately  they  were  led 
to  a  saving  acquaintance  with  Christ. 

A  tolerable  house  had  been  built  for  the  teacher,  and  a 
chapel  was  far  advanced,  which,  if  it  was  finished  as  it  had 
been  begun,  would  do  credit  to  any  mission  in  the  South 
Seas. 

The  next  island  we  visited  was 


NIUTAO 

(Speiden  Island  of  the  charts).  This  island,  which  I  now 
visited  for  the  first  time,  lies  in  lat.  6°  8'  S.,  and  long.  177° 
22'  E. ;  and  here  a  new  scene  and  a  widely  different  one 
opens  upon  us.  We  pass  from  light  to  darkness,  and 
have  our  impressions  deepened  as  to  what  God  had 
wrought  at  the  islands  we  have  just  left.  As  we  drew 
near  the  shore,  canoes  came  out  to  us,  but,  though  they 
came  pretty  near  the  vessel,  the  people  hesitated  to  come 
on  board,  assigning  as  their  reason  that  our  vessel  was 
probably  a  slaver.  It  sounded  strange  to  hear  again  the 
hated  name  of  slaver  (a  vaa  gaoi  tagata — i.e.,  a  ship  that 
steals  men,  in  native  pln-ase),  as  we  had  been  resting  in 
the  persuasion  that  the  traffic  in  human  beings  was  at 
an  end  throughout  the  Pacific.  Instead  of  that,  liowever, 
we  found  that  only  a  few  days  before  our  visit,  a 
genuine  slaver  had  been  to  Niutao,  and  that,  but  for 
the  adroit  management  of  a  canny  Scotchman  residing  on 
the  island  as  an  oil  agent,  some  fifty  or  sixty  or  more  of 
the  natives  would  have  been  carried  off.  The  story  is 
an  interesting  one,  but  it  is  too  long  to  give  in  detail. 

When  our  Scotch  friend  M'K boarded  the  vessel, 

lie  found  fifty  or  sixty  of  the  natives  already  there. 
They  were  sitting  around  a  long  table  in  a  grand  saloon, 
and  were  being  treated  in  a  manner  designed  to  secure 


A  MAN-STEALER  MEETING  HIS  MATCH.      405 

their  confidence.  The  captain  divulged  his  design  to 
the  white  man,  and  asked  him  if  he  would  assist  in 
getting  from  iifty  to  one  hundred  more  natives  than 
were  already  on  board,  and  if  he  wished  he  would  purchase 
his  oil,  take  him  off  the  island,  and  give  him  seven 
hundred  dollars !  He  signified  his  willingness  to  comply 
M'ith  the  captain's  wishes,  but  proposed  to  him  tliat, 
in  order  to  accomplish  his  object,  he  had  better  come  on 
shore  and  barter  with  the  natives,  and  so  gain  their 
confidence.     The  captain  approved  of  the  plan,  and  sent 

his  supercargo  on  shore.     M'K accompanied  him,  and 

when  they  landed  he  took  him  straight  to  his  own  house, 
and,  having  got  him  safe  there,  addressed  him  to  the 
following  effect : — "  oSTow,  the  best  thing  you  can  do  is  to 
write  a  note  to  the  captain  to  send  on  shore  every  native 
of  this  island  he  has  on  board.  Till  every  one  is  landed 
you  have  got  to  remain  with  me  here."  The  note  was  soon 
written,  and  conveyed  on  board.  Tlie  natives  were  sent  on 
shore,  and  the  crestfallen  supercargo  was  at  liberty  to 
return  to  his  ship.  The  said  slaver  must  have  been  one  of 
the  first  of  the  so-called  "  labour  vessels  "  from  Australia. 
Slie  was  a  barque  of  300  or  400  tons  burden.     The  captain 

was  a  Frenchman,  but  the  supercargo  told  M'K that 

he  belonged   to  Melbourne,  Victoria.     M'K did  not 

succeed  in  getting  the  vessel's  name.     She  had  a  number 

of  natives  of  different  islands  on  board.     M'K thought 

there  must  have  been  about  one  hundred.  One  poor 
fellow  belonging  to  Nui,  though  warned,  remained  on 
board  in  the  hope  of  getting  to  his  own  land,  and  was 
carried  off.  It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  the  slavers 
had  passed  the  islands  on  which  there  were  teachers, 
and  gone  to  the  one  that  was  still  in  darkness;  as  if 
conscious  that  their  doings  were  not  of  a  character  to  be 
carried  on  in  the  light. 

Xiutao  is  a  small  island,  similar  in  form  and  appearance 


4o6  A  HORRID  TRAGEDY. 

to  Vaitupu  and  Nui.  The  population  was  said  to  be  about 
700.  This,  however,  I  suspect  was  an  over-estimate.  The 
natives  are  a  fine  race — not  at  all  inferior  to  their  Samoan 
ancestors.  There  had  been  some  sad  doings  on  the  island, 
connected  with  a  party  of  lawless  foreigners  who  resided 
on  it  for  some  time,  professedly  as  traders,  but  really  as  free- 
hooters.  The  natives  bore  with  them,  till,  driven  to  des- 
peration by  their  outrageous  doings,  they  rose  upon  them 
and  murdered  the  whole  party,  eight  in  number.  There 
were  two  white  men,  an  Irishman  and  an  American,  and 
a  native  of  the  Kingsmill  group.  They  were  well  armed, 
and  carried  things  with  a  very  high  hand.  Each  of  the  white 
men  had  two  wives,  natives  of  the  Kingsmill  group,  and  the 
native  man  had  one.  The  natives  watched  their  oppor- 
tunity, and  when  that  was  found,  they  came  upon  them  in 
overwhelming  numbers,  bound  them  hand  and  foot,  and 
carried  them  out  behind  the  reef  and  drowned  them  in  the 
deep  sea !  A  horrid  end,  no  doubt ;  but  who  can  wonder 
when  their  conduct  towards  the  natives  is  taken  into 
account  ?  There  was  a  general  wish  among  the  people  to 
spare  the  women,  though  they  seem  to  have  acted  about  as 
fiendish  a  part  as  the  men.  The  proposal  to  save  them 
was  overruled  by  two  men,  natives  of  some  other  island 
or  islands,  who  suggested  that  if  they  were  spared  they 
would  tell  what  had  been  done,  and  foreigners  would  come 
and  take  their  island  from  them.  As  it  was,  foreigners 
did  come  and  inflict  upon  them  a  heavy  fine — te7i  tons  of 
oil,  worth  in  Sydney  about  £300.  It  was  all  right  that 
the  thing  should  be  inquired  into,  but  the  parties  who 
called  the  natives  to  account,  and  imposed  the  fine,  and 
appropriated  it  to  themselves,  had  no  right  whatever  to  do 
so.  They  were  simply  traders  to  the  island,  but  they 
managed  to  frighten  the  natives  into  compliance  with  their 
demand. 

It  is  no  wonder  that  I  found  the  natives  shy  and  dis- 


THE  DARKNESS  DEEPENING.  407 

trustful,  and  tliat  it  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  I 
succeeded  iu  getting  them  to  promise  to  receive  a  teacher. 
Indeed,  I  don't  think  I  should  have  succeeded  at  all  Lut 

for  the  help  rendered  me  by  their  friend  M'K . 

From  Niutao  we  went  into  stdl  deeper  darkness.     Tlie 
next  island  we  visited  was 


NANOMEA, 

This  island,  or  rather  islands,  for  there  are  two,  are  iu 
lat.  5°  38'  S.,  and  long.  176°  10'  E.  The  islands  are  about 
two  or  three  miles  apart  (the  name  of  the  second  is 
Eakenga).  They  are  enclosed  in  the  same  reef,  and  with 
their  great  coral  barrier  and  rich  green  foliage,  they  looked 
very  beautiful  as  we  approached  them  in  the  early  morn. 
But  the  people — alas  !  what  a  contrast  did  they  present 
to  the  lovely  spots  which  Providence  had  allotted  them 
for  their  home  !  We  found  them  just  in  the  state  in 
which  Mr  Williams  found  their  Samoan  ancestors  in 
1830,  except  that  at  that  time  many  in  Samoa  were 
weary  of  heathenism,  and  willing  to  renounce  it  when 
something  better  was  offered  to  them.  Not  so  the  natives 
of  Nanomea. 

They  have  a  very  curious  custom,  the  origm  of  which  I 
cannot  trace.  I  have  heard  nothing  of  any  similar  practice 
in  any  island  or  group  throughout  the  Pacific.  Instead  of 
going  off  to  vessels  that  approach  their  shores,  and  having 
intercouse  with  them,  every  ship,  boat,  or  canoe  is  under 
tabu  till  certain  ceremonies,  which  occupy  nearly  a  whole 
day,  are  gone  through.  The  mode  of  procedure  is  as 
follows  : — When  a  boat  or  canoe  is  approaching  the  beach, 
the  natives  rush  into  the  water,  and  seize  it,  and  carry  it 
and  its  crew,  and  everything  belonging  to  it,  right  up  inland. 
They  make  all  the  strangers  wait  at  a  distance  till  prepara- 
tions are  completed,  and  when  that  is  done,  they  are  taken 


4o8  SINGULAR  CUSTOMS. 

to  the  place  appointed,  and  a  long  round  of  tedious  cere- 
monies is  gone  through  in  front  of  a  large  coral  slab,  about 
nine  feet  in  height.  The  observances  consist  of  presenta- 
tions of  cocoa-nuts  to  various  deities,  accompanied  witli 
prayers,  singing,  dancing,  shouting,  throwing  the  spear,  &c. 
One  of-  the  concluding  observances  is  very  curious — the 
strangers  are  sjmnJdcd  with  loater  all  round. 

As  I  did  not  go  on  shore  in  the  first  boat,  I  escaped  the 
infliction  to  which  our  party  were  subjected ;  and  when  a 
part  of  those  belonging  to  a  ship  have  gone  through  the 
ordeal,  the  vessel  is  no  longer  considered  tabu.  I  am  not 
sure,  however,  that  my  not  having  been  one  of  the  party  who 
were  "  devilled,"  as  the  traders  call  it,  had  not  something 
to  do  with  the  danger  in  which  I  found  myself  when  I  did 
land,  I  have  never  before  nor  since,  so  far  as  I  am  aware, 
been  in  so  much  danger  in  all  my  dealings  witli  savages. 
The  particulars  of  my  adventure  are  interesting,  but  too 
long  for  insertion  in  this  place.  The  chief,  who  was 
evidently  my  friend,  held  me  by  the  hand  all  the  time  I 
was  on  shore,  and  did  not  quit  his  hold  till  I  went  to  the 
boat.  Something  was  gained,  however ;  I  gave  the  chief  a 
present,  which  he  received,  and  on  hun  at  least  a  good 
impression  was  made.  Perhaps  one  reason  why  the  cliief 
took  me  in  special  charge  was,  that  before  landing  I  had 
sent  and  asked  his  permission,  and  this  I  understood  I 
had. 

Ten  principal  deities  are  said  to  be  worshipped  on  the 
island,  and  there  are  various  objects  which  the  people 
hold  sacred,  the  chief  of  which  seem  to  be  the  skull  of 
one  of  their  ancestors  whom  they  call  Folasa,  and  the 
seat  of  one  of  the  canoes  in  which  their  ancestors  came 
from  Samoa.  These  appear  to  be  held  in  great  veneration. 
They  seemed  excessively  addicted  to  dancing,  not  con- 
fining it,  as  is  done  in  most  islands,  to  the  night,  but 
carrying  it  on  at  times  during  the  day.     They  declared, 


OLD  THINGS  PASSED  AWAY.  409 

without  any  mincing  of  the  matter,  that  they  preferred 
darkness  to  light.  A  native  of  Samoa,  who  accompanied 
me  in  the  voyage,  in  trying  to  persuade  them  to  abandon 
heathenism  and  receive  Christianity,  told  them  that  the 
light  was  (jood.  "  No,"  said  they,  in  reply,  "  U  lelei  le 
2)ouli  " — darkness  is  good.  The  islands  are  small,  not 
more  than  about  seven  or  eight  miles  in  length  from  the 
extremity  of  the  one  to  that  of  the  other.  They  are  very 
narrow,  but  the  population  is  considerable.  It  was  esti- 
mated at  GOO  or  700.  Nanomea  was  the  limit  of  our 
voyage  in  this  direction,  and,  after  leaving  it,  our  course 
was  directed  towards  Samoa,  calling  on  our  way  at  Nui. 

We  reached  this  delightful  little  spot  on  the  3d  of 
December,  and  felt  it  jdeasant  indeed  to  have  intercourse 
with  its  teacher  and  people.  Kirisome  and  his  wife,  who 
had  been  about  twelve  months  on  tlie  island,  had  evi- 
dently been  labouring  with  great  zeal,  and  their  success 
had  been  wonderful.  Every  external  vestige  of  heathenism 
liad  passed  away ;  the  people  were,  with  few  exceptions, 
decently  clothed;  many,  both  old  and  young,  read  well, 
and  all,  who  were  at  all  capable,  were  learning.  The 
Sabbath  was  being  observed  in  the  most  exemplary 
manner,  and  public  services  were  being  prized  and  im- 
proved. And,  best  of  all,  as  it  is  the  end  of  all,  a  spiritual 
work  seemed  manifestly  in  progress.  Nowhere  did  I  find 
more  clear  indications  of  a  work  of  grace  than  on  Nui. 
I  conversed,  one  by  one,  with  twenty  persons,  all  of  whom 
appeared  decidedly  hopeful ;  and  some,  who  were  unable 
on  account  of  illness  to  come  to  meet  me,  were,  according 
to  the  teacher's  opinion,  among  the  most  marked  cases. 
I  was  so  much  hurried  that  I  was  able  to  see  only  one 
of  these,  and  with  his  case  I  was  very  much  struck.  The 
greatest  diflficidty  with  which  the  teacher  had  had  to 
grapple  arose  from  a  strange  quarter.  Soon  after  his 
settlement  on  the  island,  who  should  turn  up  but  that 


4IO  AN  OPPONENT  DEFEATED. 

nondescript  character  Bob,  to  wliom  the  reader  was  in- 
troduced in  a  former  chapter.  He  had  been  trying  to 
push  his  fortune  among  the  islands  to  the  north  still 
remaining  in  heathenism.  Whether  he  had  been  disap- 
pointed there,  or  what,  does  not  appear;  but,  whatever 
may  have  been  the  case  in  that  respect,  he  had  determined 
to  return  to  Nui,  and  make  an  effort  to  regain  his  former 
standing  there.  To  effect  this,  he  made  a  determined 
attempt.  He  met  his  match,  however,  in  the  teacher, 
who,  though  a  young  man,  is  remarkably  sensible,  judi- 
cious, and  firm.  He  took  a  decided  stand,  and  the  people 
stood  by  him ;  so  Bob  was  foiled,  and,  with  his  three  wives, 
slunk  back  agam  into  the  congenial  darkness  of  the  Kings- 
mill  group. 

My  intercourse  with  the  people  of  Xui,  and  the  estim- 
able couple  who  were  doing  the  work  of  God  among  them, 
was  exceedingly  pleasant.  The  only  drawback  was  that 
my  visit  was  so  hurried — a  consequence  of  its  being  made 
in  a  trading  vessel.  The  people  were  so  eager  for  information 
on  matters  of  importance,  that  they  kept  me  answering  their 
questions,  till  the  signal-flag  was  hoisted  for  me  to  go  on 
board;  so,  having  commended  ourselves  to  the  care  and 
protection  of  our  Father  in  heaven,  I  bade  adieu  to  Nui, 
hurried  on  board  ship,  and  we  stood  on  our  way  towards 
Samoa,  which  we  reached  on  the  4th  of  December  1866. 


(  411  ) 


CHAPTEE  XLVIII. 

NOTICES   OF   THE   MISSIONS   ON    ELLICE'S    GROUP    CONTINUED — VISIT   OF    THE 

BEV.    H.    BINGHAM — VISIT   OF   THE    REV.    S.   J.   'WHITMEE STATE  OF   THE 

MISSIONS  ON  NUKULAELAE  AND  FUNAFUTI — EXTRAORDINARY  ZEAL  AND 
LIBERALITY  OF  THE  PEOPLE  OF  VAITUPU — THE  TEACHER  PENI  AND  HIS 
WORK — STATE  OF  THE  MISSION  ON  NUKUFETAU — CONTINUED  PROGRESS 
ON  NUI — EXEMPLARY  GENEROSITY  OF  THE  PEOPLE — INTRODUCTION  OP 
THE  GOSPEL  TO  NIUTAO — A  FOOTING  GAINED  ON  NANOMEA — THE  SLAVERS 
AGAIN — ITEMS  OF  INTELLIGENCE  FROM  THE  REPORTS  OF  MESSRS  POWELL, 
PRATT,  AND   DAVIES — CLOSE  OF   OUR  NOTICES  OF  THESE  MISSIONS. 

Ox  my  return  from  the  voyage,  tlie  account  of  which 
has  been  given  in  the  preceding  chapter,  my  accustomed 
home  duties  were  resumed,  and  can-ied  on  with  little 
further  interruption  for  a  considerable  space  of  time. 
I  will,  however,  leave,  for  the  present,  matters  connected 
with  my  own  immediate  sphere,  in  order  to  give  the 
reader  a  view,  in  as  far  as  our  space  and  materials  will 
allow,  of  the  subsequent  history  of  the  missions,  whose 
commencement  and  progress  we  have  traced  to  the  point 
at  which  we  have  now  arrived — the  close  of  1866. 

So  far  as  we  have  proceeded,  the  hand  of  God  has  been 
strikingly  manifest  in  connection  with  our  mission  to 
the  EUice's  group.  Even  before  the  almost  mhaculous 
preservation  of  the  Manihiki  party,  these  little  com- 
munities were  being  prepared  for  the  reception  of  the 
gospel.     God  had  evidently  gone  out  before  us,  and  we 


412  VISIT  OF  THE  REV.  H.  BINGHAM. 

had  only  to  arise  and  follow  where  He  led;  and,  how 
cheering  is  the  fact,  that  subsequent  visits  have  supplied 
the  most  satisfactory  evidence  that  the  progress  of  these 
missions,  down  to  the  present  time,  is  in  keeping  with 
their  early  history ;  and  that  the  hopes  and  anticipations, 
which  that  awakened,  have  been  fully  realised  ! 

Between  the  visit,  a  narrative  of  which  has  just  been 
given,  there  was  a  long  interval,  as  we  shall  presently 
see ;  but  during  that  interval,  the  Eev.  H.  Bingham  of  the 
Micronesian  mission,  in  company  with  another  American 
missionary,  kintUy  visited  several  of  the  islands  in  their 
mission  ship,  "Morning  Star,"  Mr  Bingham  and  his 
friend  showed  much  kindness  to  our  teachers  and  their 
people,  and  aided  and  encouraged  them  in  every  way 
in  their  power ;  and  to  them,  and  to  our  brethren  in  the 
New  Hebrides,  we  are  much  indebted  for  their  kind  help 
in  a  time  of  special  need. 

The  third  regular  visit  was  not  made  till  towards  the 
close  of  1870.  At  that  time  the  Ptcv.  S.  J.  Whitmee 
visited  the  islands  on  which  missions  were  in  progress, 
and  some  others  beyond  that  w^ere  still  heathen,  in  the 
third  "  John  Williams."  A  second  had  been  ^Tecked  in 
the  meanwhile,  and  to  that  it  was  owing  that  om-  out- 
stations  were  so  long  left  unvisited.  The  following  extract 
from  Mr  Whitmee's  interesting  report  will  show  the  state 
in  which  he  found  the  islands  already  occupied,  after  their 
having  been  so  long  left.  I  may  state,  in  order  to  explain 
the  fact  that  no  church  had  been  organised  on  any  of  the 
islands  before  Mr  Whitmee's  visit,  that  though  I  was 
satisfied  that  on  four  of  the  islands  there  were  genuine 
Christians,  I  thought  it  better  to  leave  the  formation  of 
churches  to  the  visitor  or  visitors  who  might  come  after 
me.  I  had  had  all  to  do  in  the  way  of  visiting  and 
corresponding  with  the  missions  so  far,  and  we  were  ex- 


A   CHURCH  FORMED.  413 

]iectin;4'  our  new  "  Joliii  Williams  "  in  a  few  months,  when 
it  was  expected  a  visit  would  be  made  l)y  two  of  my 
fellow-labourers.  Mr  Whitmee  writes  as  follows  with  re- 
ference to  the  island  of 

NUKULAELAE. 

"  No  church  had  been  formed  on  this  island,  but  I  found 
forty  candidates  for  membership.  From  the  time  I  landed, 
soon  after  noon  on  Saturday,  till  late  at  night,  I  was  fully 
occupied  either  with  Joane,  the  teacher,  or  with  the  candi- 
dates, whom  I  examined  individually.  The  next  day 
Ix'ing  Sunday  I  preached  in  the  morning  at  eight  o'clock, 
after  which  I  finished  conversing  with  the  candidates, 
and  consulted  with  the  teacher  as  to  those  who  were 
eligible  for  church-fellowship.  Of  the  forty,  we  decided 
on  admitting  twenty-seven.  All  these  read  the  Samoan 
Scriptures  very  well — indeed,  all  the  inhabitants  of  the 
island,  w^ith  the  exception  of  five  or  six  very  old  people, 
and  young  children,  can  read  intelligently.  The  people 
are  not,  on  the  whole,  as  well  informed  in  Scripture  truth 
as  the  Tokelau  islanders  (they  had  been  more  than  double 
the  time  under  instruction),  but  some  of  the  young  people 
are  quite  as  intelligent.  The  teacher  has  evidently  laboured 
faithfully,  and  the  success  which  has  attended  his  labours 
is  seen  in  the  fact  that,  with  three  or  four  exceptions,  all 
the  adults  on  the  island  are  candidates  for  church-member- 
ship. All  of  those  now  admitted  have  been  fully  four 
years  candidates,  and  have  maintained  a  consistent  deport- 
ment during  the  whole  time." 

The  next  island  visited  was 


FUNAFUTI, 

concerning  wdiich  Mr  Whitmee  writes  as  follows : — "  This 
island  has   been  without   a   teacher  for  two   years,  the 


414  STEADY  PROGRESS. 

Samoan  located  here  by  Mr  Murray  having  fallen  into  an 
error  which  deprived  him  of  his  influence,  and  in  con- 
sequence he  returned  home.  We  have  not  been  able 
before  to  supply  his  place,  and  the  work  has  been  carried 
on  by  four  natives  of  the  island.  Under  these  circum- 
stances I  expected  to  find  the  people  in  a  less  advanced 
stage  than  on  the  other  islands.  I  was  agreeably  surprised 
to  find  the  general  state  of  the  island  far  in  advance  of 
anything  I  had  expected  to  see.  Before  the  teacher  left 
he  had  taught  the  greater  part  of  the  people  to  read,  and, 
after  his  departure,  four  of  the  most  intelligent  of  the 
community  had  been  chosen  by  the  rest  to  conduct  the 
ordinary  services  and  classes.  All  has  gone  on  regularly 
to  the  present  time.  With  the  Bible  in  their  hand,  and 
the  teaching  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  many  have  been  brought, 
I  believe,  to  a  saving  knowledge  of  the  truth,  and  the 
whole  population  has  advanced  to  a  state  which  would  put 
to  shame  many  a  village  in  highly-favoured  England. 
The  population  comprises  116  individuals.  Nearly  all 
(except  old  people  and  young  children)  can  read  the 
Scriptures,  and  forty-seven  were  candidates  for  church- 
fellowship.  Great  joy  was  manifested  by  all  on  our 
arrival,  and  Tema,  the  teacher  whom  I  had  appointed  to 
labour  here,  was  received  with  a  hearty  welcome.  We 
found  a  neat  stone  chapel;  also  a  good  house  ready  for 
the  teacher  to  reside  in.  After  a  full  examination  of  the 
forty-seven  candidates,  I  decided  on  admitting  twenty- 
eight  of'  them  to  Christian  fellowship.  They  were  all 
well  informed  on  vital  doctrines,  and  had  preserved  a 
consistent  outward  deportment  for  four  years." 

These  statements  need  no  comment.  With  reference  to 
the  state  of  things  found  on  the  next  island  visited, 
Vaitupu,  Mr  Whitmee  writes  as  follows: — "During  the 
stormy  season  last  year  part  of  the  walls  of  the  old  chapel 
was  washed  down  by  the  waves,  which  rose  very  high 


EXTRA  ORDINA  R  V  ZEA  L  A  ND  LIBERA  LIT  V.    415 

and  flooded  it.  In  consequence  of  this,  the  people  set  to 
work  and  built  a  new  chapel  farther  from  the  beach,  and, 
in  the  exuberance  of  their  zeal,  they  have  foolishly  built 
it  large  enough  to  hold  three  times  the  number  of  the 
whole  population.  I  was  sorry  to  see  their  zeal  so 
misdirected,  and  asked  Peni  the  teacher  why  he  had 
allowed  them  to  expend  so  much  labour  and  expense 
on  the  work.  He  vindicated  himself  from  all  blame, 
telling  me  that  he  had  repeatedly  tried  to  dissuade  them 
from  erecting  so  large  a  chapel,  but  all  to  no  purpose. 
The  building  is  120  feet  long  by  60  feet  wide.  The 
stone  walls  are  high  and  well  built;  the  doors  and 
windows  symmetrically  arranged,  with  arched  tops. 
The  whole  design  does  credit  to  the  architectural  skill  as 
well  as  to  the  extraordinary  zeal  and  energy  of  the  people. 
Doors  and  windows  too  have  been  purchased  of  a  trader 
who  visits  the  island,  the  natives  having  paid  four  and 
a  half  tons  of  cocoa-nut  oil  for  them — a  price  which  would 
have  cooled  the  zeal  of  a  more  civilised  community. 

"I  found  here  abundance  of  work,  for  there  were  157 
candidates  for  church-membership  with  whom  I  had  to 
converse.  This  occupied  me  till  eleven  o'clock  at  night, 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  next  day.  The  teacher  and 
I  decided  on  admitting  103  to  membership  in  the 
church  about  to  be  formed.  All  these  had  a  clear 
knowledge  of  the  Scriptural  truths  all-important  to 
salvation,  and  were  all  well  reported  of  by  the  teacher  as 
to  outward  deportment." 

Peni,  the  teacher,  who  had  been  labouring  so  diligently 
and  successfully  among  the  people,  had  lost  his  health, 
and  it  was  necessary  that  he  should  now  leave  the  island. 
With  reference  to  his  retirement  Mr  Whitmee  writes : — 
"The  mention  of  Peni's  removal  deeply  affected  many 
amongst  the  audience,  and  I  was  obliged  to  cut  my  remarks 
short,  to  prevent  the  place  becoming  a  house  of  weeping. 


4i6  RESULTS  OF  A  FEIV  YEARS'  WORK. 

It  must  be  a  source  of  joy  to  Peni  to  leave  the  island  in 
so  prosperous  a  state,  as  a  result  (through  the  Divine 
blessing)  of  his  own  labours.  He  leaves  a  church  of  one 
hundred  and  three  members,  with  fifty-four  candidates  yet 
remaining.  A^ice  is  almost  unknown  on  the  island ;  a 
respectable  form  of  government  is  established,  and  every- 
thing conducted  in  the  quietest  and  most  orderly  manner. 
If  tlie  people  err,  it  is  through  overmuch  zeal ;  an  error  (if 
error  it  bej  which  is  refreshing  now  and  again  to  behold. 

"  During  the  second  day  of  our  visit  the  people  pro- 
vided a  large  present  for  the  ship,  comprising  from  2000 
to  3000  cocoa-nuts,  with  pigs,  fowls,  fish,  taro,  &c.  A 
special  present  was  also  brought  to  me  from  the  king  and 
two  principal  chiefs,  which  included  a  right  royal  present, 
viz.,  a  very  fine  turtle.  The  ladies  and  gentlemen  also 
brouglit  me  a  present  which  I  prized  far  more  than  the 
eatables,  viz.,  articles  of  home  manufacture,  and  curiosities 
of  the  island." 

Well,  indeed,  might  Peni  rejoice  in  what  God  had 
wrought  by  his  instrumentality  ;  and  well  may  all,  who 
love  the  Saviour  and  His  cause,  be  sharers  in  his  joy. 
Such  results,  in  so  short  a  time,  from  the  labours  of  a 
native  teacher,  is  a  thing  that  has  few  parallels  in  the 
history  of  modern  missions. 

At  Nukufetau,  the  state  of  tilings  was  still  much  less 
satisfactory  than  on  the  neighbouring  islands.  In  addition 
to  its  having  been  in  a  more  backward  state  from  the 
first,  difiiculties  had  arisen  between  the  teacher  and  the 
chief  and  people,  and  the  progress  of  the  mission  had 
been  seriously  impeded.  Had  the  island  been  ^dsited  two 
years  earlier,  tlie  difficulties  miglit  have  been  adjusted, 
and  a  very  different  state  of  things  found  now.  The 
teacher,  Elekana,  had  no  doubt  aimed  to  do  right,  but  he 
had  been  injudicious.  Arrangements  were  now  made  for 
his  removal ;  and  Sapolu,  a  Samoan  teacher,  took  his  place. 


NUKUFETA  U  A  ND  NUT.  4 1 7 

When  all  things  are  taken  into  account,  the  wonder  is  that 
the  mission  was  not  ruined.  Tlie  following  extract  from 
Mr  Wliitmee's  report  shows  a  much  more  favourable  state 
of  things  tlian  could  reasonably  liave  been  expected  : — 

"  There  \vere  forty  candidates  for  churcli-fellowship,  but 
I  found  them  ignorant  in  comparison  wdth  those  of  the 
other  islands,  and  deemed  it  well  uot  to  form  a  churcli 
here  at  the  present  time.  By  another  year,  Sapolu,  the 
new  teaclier,  will  be  accustomed  to  the  people,  and  the 
missionary  then  visiting  them  will  be  better  able  to 
judge  of  their  real  condition.  The  population  of  the 
island  is  202." 

The  following  extract  from  the  same  report  refers  to 
the  island  of  Nui : — 

"The  external  benefits  brought  by  tlte  gospel  to  this 
island  are  evident  as  soon  as  one  lands.  The  people,  a 
few  years  ago  naked  savages,  are  now  clothed  and  in 
their  riglit  mind.  Their  chapel,  without  exception  the 
neatest  and  most  pleasant-looking  which  I  have  seen  in 
the  South  Seas,  is  a  very  prominent  object.  The  teacher, 
Kirisome,  met  us  in  a  canoe  outside  the  reef,  and  a 
crowd  of  people  met  us  on  the  beach.  My  work  com- 
menced at  once.  For  several  hours  Kirisome  kept  me 
occupied,  giving  reports  of  what  he  had  done,  asking  me 
questions  on  various  passages  of  Scripture  which  had 
l)uzzled  him,  and  on  matters  relating  to  his  work.  .  .  . 
He  and  his  wife  are  an  excellent  pair,  and  models  of 
wliat  our  l*olynesian  pioneers  should  be.  The  report  of 
the  work  closed  with  what  was  to  me  a  pleasant  surprise. 
Kirisome  handed  me  a  bag  of  money,  the  contributions  to 
the  London  JNIissionary  Society.  When  I  counted  it,  I 
found  |202,  25  cents,  or  £40,  Os.  This  is  the  gift  of 
212  people,  the  entire  population  amounting  only  to  that 
number. 

''  The  number  of  candidates  for  church-fellowship  was 

2  D 


41 8  TEACHERS  RECEIVED  ON  NIUTAO. 

117.  Kirisome  and  I  examined  them  individually,  and 
upon  his  recommendation  I  decided  on  uniting  ninety 
of  them  in  Christian  fellowship.  "We  accordingly  held 
a  meeting  in  the  afternoon  of  October  the  12th,  at  which 
a  church  was  formed  of  ninety  members,  and  the  new 
church  then  partook  of  the  Lord's  Supper." 

The  reader  will  not  fail  again  to  notice  how  strikingly 
the  after-history  of  Xui  corresponds  to  its  early  promise. 
Indeed,  with  reference  to  it  and  some  of  the  other  islands 
of  the  group,  we  may  say  without  exaggeration,  God  hath 
done  for  us  "  exceeding  abundantly,  above  all  that  we  can 
ask  or  think." 

At  Niutao  Mr  Whitmee  succeeded  in  getting  teachers 
received,  though  the  great  bulk  of  the  people  were  still 
heathen,  and  were  not  yet  prepared  to  renounce  that.  The 
following  extracts  will  be  read  with  interest : — "  I  was  re- 
joiced on  landing  to  meet  seven  or  eight  men  and  women 
who  were  clothed,  and  have  renounced  heathenism.  These 
have  been  on  visits  to  Christian  islands,  and  have  received  a 
measure  of  Christian  instruction  from  the  teachers  there. 
From  these  we  received  a  warm  welcome.  .  .  .  The  popu- 
lation of  the  island  is  about  360  ;  but  over  100  people  are 
away  at  other  islands,  many  of  them  at  Vaitupu.  I  left 
Tapu,  one  of  the  Samoan  teachers,  to  labour  on  the  island  ; 
and  Sione,  a  native  of  Nuie,  to  live  with  him  for  one  year, 
in  the  hope  that  by  that  time  he  may  be  received  at  Nano- 
manga,  a  heathen  island  which  is  still  closed  against  the 
gospel.  I  left  Niutao  feeling  very  thankful  for  the  success 
which  we  had  met  with." 

The  last  island  of  the  Ellice's  group  visited  during  this 
voyage  was 

NANOMEA. 

Mr  Whitmee's  account  of  his  visit  to  this  island  is  highly 
interesting.    I  must  confine  myself,  however,  to  one  or  two 


A  FOOTING  GAINED  ON  NANOMEA.  419 

brief  extracts.  Mr  Whitmee  had  found  on  the  island  of 
Funafuti  a  native  of  this  island,  named  Tavita  (David), 
who  liad  been  admitted  to  church-fellowship  there,  and 
who  was  desirous  of  returning  to  his  native  land,  to  endea- 
vour to  introduce  the  gospel  there.  His  wife,  who  was  a 
native  of  Funafuti,  and  also  a  member  of  the  church,  was 
willing  to  accompany  her  husband.  Tavita's  wish  was 
gladly  complied  with,  and  the  following  extract  will  show 
how  he  was  received  by  his  countrymen : — 

"  Early  next  morning,  the  24th,  our  fellow-passengers 
returned  to  the  ship ;  and  one  of  them,  Tavita,  who  came 
with  us  from  Funafuti,  and  to  whom  I  had  given  a  tem- 
porary appointment  to  act  as  a  teacher  untd.  the  people 
^vill  receive  a  Samoan,  brought  me  an  invitation  from  the 
two  kings  to  go  ashore.  This  was  accompanied  by  a  mes- 
sage to  the  effect  that  I  need  not  fear  on  account  of  what 
was  done  to  Mr  Murray.  The  danger  to  which  he  was 
exposed  arose  entirely  from  a  mistake.  They  had  heard 
more  of  missionaries  since  then,  and  knew  we  would  not 
harm  them,  and  I  should  find  them  a  quiet  people.  Of 
course  I  at  once  decided  on  accepting  so  courteous  an  invi- 
tation. .  .  .  When  we  were  seated  I  addressed  the  two 
kings,  and  told  them  the  object  of  our  visit.  We  had  no 
Samoan  teacher  to  leave  on  the  island,  but  I  asked  them 
that  their  own  people,  who  had  returned  with  us  to  their 
homes,  and  who  were  Christians,  might  have  liberty  to 
worship  God  without  hindrance ;  that  they  would  allow 
any  others  who  wished  to  become  Christians  to  do  so,  and 
that  they  would  consider  what  Tavita  would  tell  them 
about  Christianity,  and  allow  a  Samoan  teacher  to  come 
and  live  amongst  them  next  year."  The  reply  was  favour- 
able, and  a  footing  for  Christianity  was  gained  on  Nanomea 
by  means  of  one  of  its  own  people.  So  God  works,  finding 
means  and  instruments  for  the  accomplisliment  of  His 
purposes  in  the  most  unlikely  ways  and  places,  and  adding 


420  SUBSEQUENT  VISITS. 

link  after  link  to  the  great  missionary  chain,  which  ere 
a  very  great  while  will  encircle  the  globe. 

All  these  islands  were  again  visited  in  1871,  and  also 
in  1872  and  1873.  The  visit  in  1871  was  by  Mr  Powell, 
that  in  1872  by  Mr  Pratt.  Only  a  small  part  of  the 
reports  of  these  brethren  is  in  my  possession — especially 
that  of  Mr  Powell.  I  had  the  pleasure,  however,  of  meet- 
ing Mr  Powell  while  he  was  returning  from  his  visit, 
and  hearing  from  himself  a  full  account  of  his  voyage. 
He  had  a  very  cheering  report  to  give.  His  voyage 
seemed  to  have  equalled  in  interest  and  j^romise  those 
that  preceded  it,  and  that  is  saying  much.  The  liberality 
of  the  people  on  Vaitupu,  as  noted  in  Mr  Powell's  report, 
is  specially  remarkable. 

Allowing  £10  (a  moderate  estimate)  for  what  was  given 
to  the  "  John  Williams,"  £30  for  contributions  to  the 
London  Missionary  Society,  and  £23  paid  for  books,  we 
have  the  munificent  sum  of  £93  raised  by  this  handful  of 
people,  who  a  very  few  years  before  were  in  heathen 
darkness.  Were  the  people  of  God  in  England  and  other 
lands  of  light  to  give,  in  anything  like  the  same  proportion, 
according  to  their  means,  how  amply  would  the  Lord's 
treasury  be  furnished  to  meet  all  demands  !  In  that  case, 
the  grand  project  propounded  by  Dr  Angus  at  the  Confer- 
ence of  the  Evangelical  Alliance  held  in  New  York  in 
1874  might  be  realised  in  as  far  as  means  are  concerned  : — 
"■  In  a  generation  we  could  preach  the  gospel,  and  give  the 
New  Testament  to  every  creature."  With  reference  to  the 
island  of  Nui,  Mr  Powell  writes  : — "  It  was  from  this  place 
that  Mr  Whitmee  took  Kirisome,  the  teacher,  last  year,  to 
act  as  interpreter  in  the  Gilbert  group  (another  name  for 
the  Kingsmill  group),  and  whom  he  left  at  Tamana.  He 
had  not  returned,  and  the  people  had  therefore  been  left 
to  their  own  resources  the  whole  year.  I  was  delighted  to 
find  how  well  they  had  managed.    There  was  a  band  of  ten 


A  NUI  PREACHER  CLOSING  HIS  COURSE.      421 

or  more  assistant  teachers,  and  these  had  conducted  tlie  usual 
services  during  the  year.  One  of  the  number  had  lately 
died  rejoicing  in  tlie  Lord.  After  preaching  on  Sunday  lie 
was  suddenly  taken  ill,  and  died  on  the  following  Wed- 
nesday. During  his  hrief  illness  he  earnestly  exhorted  his 
family  and  fellow- Christians  to  cleave  unto  the  Lord." 

It  is  deeply  interesting  to  get  a  glimpse  of  this  Nui 
preacher  as  he  closes  his  brief  career,  and  passes  away 
rejoicing  to  join  the  innumerable  multitude  before  the 
throne.  One  is  reminded  of  Bonar's  beautiful  words  so 
touchingly  appropriate  : — 

"  From  the  balm-breathing,  sun-loved  isles 

Of  the  bright  Southern  Sea, 
From  the  dead  North's  cloud-shadowed  pole, 
"We  gather  to  one  gladsome  goal, 

One  common  home  in  thee, 
City  of  sun  and  smiles  !  " 

Mr  Pratt's  visit  was  made  in  July  and  August  1872, 
He  seems  to  have  found  a  state  of  things  very  similar  to 
that  reported  by  former  visitors.  Nukulaelae  is  not 
mentioned  in  the  published  account  of  his  cruise.  At 
Funafuti,  from  sixteen  candidates  for  church-fellowship  nine 
were  selected  for  admission ;  and  the  little  community  on 
that  island  had  contributed  in  aid  of  the  funds  of  the  London 
Missionary  Society  15,000  dried  cocoa-nuts,  worth  £15  ; 
and  they  collected  thirty-six  fathoms  of  print  and  500  dried 
cocoa-nuts  to  send  as  presents  to  the  teachers  at  Arorae, 
who,  they  had  heard,  were  suffering  from  scarcity  of  food. 
This  is  a  very  beautiful  little  circumstance,  so  like  the 
practice  of  early  days,  when  the  disciples  of  the  Lord  were 
so  ready  to  contribute  of  their  substance  to  help  their 
poorer  brethren.  Another  thing  worthy  of  note  at  tliis 
island  was  that  a  young  man  offered  himself  as  a  candi- 
date for  admission  to  the  Institution  at  Malua,  and  at 
Kukufetau  two  mwe  made  a  similar  application,  and  were 


423     PROGRESS  ON  NUKUFETAU  AND  NIUTAO. 

all  accepted,  I  suppose,  as  nothing  is  said  to  the  contrary. 
That  these  missions,  still  in  their  infancy,  should  furnish 
men  to  aid  in  the  evangelisation  of  lands  remaining  in 
darkness  is  a  noteworthy  fact.  A  native  of  the  Tokelau 
group  is  already  in  the  field,  and,  in  a  few  years,  I  trust  all 
these  little  tiny  lands  will  be  represented  on  the  monster 
island,  to  whose  shores  the  glad  tidings  have  at  length 
found  their  way. 

Mr  Pratt  reports  that  the  people  of  Nukufetau  had 
made  a  large  collection  for  the  Society,  and  that  the 
teacher  was  well  provided  for.  Hence  I  suppose  we  may 
infer  that  the  state  of  things  on  the  island  was  satisfactory. 

Very  encouraging  progress  had  been  made  on  Niutao. 
Only  forty  of  the  people  remained  heathen,  and  Mr  Pratt 
arranged  for  the  formation  of  a  church,  to  consist  of  nine 
members ;  and  though  the  people  were  themselves  short  of 
food,  they  made  a  present  to  the  ship,  and  "  there  was  a 
good  demand  for  books." 

Wlierever  Mr  Pratt  went  among  the  islands  of  the 
Kingsmill  group,  he  found  traces  of  the  doings  of  the 
villanous  slavers.  Elisaio,  the  teacher  on  the  island  of 
Peru,  "  had  boarded  one  of  them  to  see  if  he  could  send 
letters.  He  was  pretty  severely  handled  by  them,  on  the 
ground  of  his  preventing  them  from  getting  slaves.  He 
finally  made  his  escape  over  the  side  of  the  vessel,  leaving 
a  part  of  his  shirt  in  their  hands."  "What  an  impression 
this  statement  gives  one  of  the  savage  and  reckless  charac- 
ter of  these  men,  while  it  affords  very  pleasing  evidence  as 
to  the  influence  of  the  teachers  in  preventing  their  people 
from  falling  into  their  hands.  Mr  Pratt  mentions  one  island, 
Nukunau,  from  which  "  a  thousand  people  had  been  carried 
off  within  four  years."  How  one  longs  to  have  the  accursed 
system  brought  to  a  perpetual  end !  Arise,  0  Lord,  and 
plead  Thine  own  cause  ;  execute  justice  and  judgment  for 
all  that  are  oppressed  ! 


GENERAL  CONSOLIDATION.  423 

The  visit  in  1873  was  made  by  the  IJev.  S.  H.  Davies. 
The  following  is  all  we  are  able  to  give  from  his  report : — 

"  The  work  on  the  Ellice  group,  on  all  the  islands  where 
teachers  have  been  labouring  for  a  length  of  time,  is  in  an 
encouraging  state.  Each  island  lias  its  laws,  which  are 
respected  and  enforced ;  a  nominal  king  with  a  body  of 
rulers  and  magistrates.  Each  island  has  its  good  stone 
chapel  and  teacher's  house,  and  the  services  are  well 
attended.  Hundreds  can  read  the  Scriptures  with  fluency, 
and  the  progress  these  young  Christian  communities  have 
made  is  a  matter  for  wonder  and  gratitude.  And  the 
effect  of  the  gospel  upon  their  own  souls  is  evident  in  the 
love  they  manifest  to  heathen  lands,  by  giving  largely  of 
their  produce  for  the  work  of  the  Society." 

And  here  Ave  must  stop.  The  history  of  these  missions, 
so  far  as  we  liave  seen,  is  a  bright  page  in  the  records  of 
our  South  Sea  missions.  God  grant  that  their  future  may 
be  still  more  bright,  and  to  His  name  be  all  the  praise  1 


(  424  ) 


CHAPTEE  XLIX. 

HOPEFUL  COMMENCEMENT  OF  1867 — "WRECK  OF  THE  SECOND  "JOHN  WILLIAMS  " 
— LIBERAL  CONTRIBUTIONS — ARRANGEMENTS  FOR  A  NEW  EDITION  OF  THE 

SAMOAN    BIBLE ANOTHER   VISIT  TO  TUTUILA  — APPOINTMENT  OF    A    KING 

—A    MISSIONARY  VOYAGE    TO  THE  TOKELAU    GROUP — STATE  OF    THE    MIS- 
SIONS ON  FAKAOFO  AND  ATAHU — PROCEEDINGS  THERE — GLOOMY  PROSPECTS 

IN  SAMOA — WAR  COMMENCED — INDECISIVE  STRUGGLES ONE  OF  THE  WAR 

PARTIES    IN   EXILE,    AND   THEIR   LANDS    AND   HOMES    IN   THE   HANDS  OF 
STRANGERS— ALTERNATIONS  OF  HOPE  AND  FEAR. 

We  now  return  to  the  date,  January  1867,  at  whicli 
we  turned  aside,  in  order  to  complete  our  story  of  the 
missions  on  the  Ellice's  group. 

The  year  opened  hopefully.  We  had  our  accustomed 
week  of  special  services,  and  the  state  of  things  generally 
throughout  the  mission  was  fair  and  promising  in  as  far  as 
external  appearance  went.  We  had  peace  and  a  measure 
of  prosperity  at  home,  and  we  were  in  hopes  that  very 
shortly  we  should  again  be  able  to  give  the  attention 
and  succour  to  our  out-stations  of  which  they  had  been 
so  long  deprived.  A  new  "John  Williams"  was  draw- 
ing near  our  shores,  and  might  be  expected  very  shortly, 
and  on  her  arrival  we  should  be  in  circumstances  not 
only  to  look  after  the  missions  already  formed,  but  to 
extend  our  operations  to  new  fields. 

Alas  !  a  bitter  disappointment  awaited  us.  Two  serious 
disasters  had  already  befallen  our  ship.  She  was  in  the 
<iale  in  the  British  Channel  in  which  the  "  London "  was 


WRECK  OF  THE  SECOND  ''JOHN  WILLIAMSr  425 

lost,  and  was  so  much  injured  that  she  had  to  he  taken 
back  to  an  English  port  for  repairs;  and  at  Aneiteuin 
she  came  very  near  being  lost  altogether ;  still  we  were 
confidently  expecting  to  see  her  reach  in  safety  her 
destination.  Instead  of  that,  however,  we  had  an  arrival 
of  a  very  different  character. 

On  the  23d  of  February,  Mr  Turpie,  who  had  been 
chief  officer  of  the  ship,  and  two  young  missionaries, 
Messrs  Chalmers  and  Davies,  who  had  been  passengers 
in  her  from  England,  arrived  with  the  startling  announce- 
ment that  our  fine  vessel  was  a  wreck  !  She  had  drifted 
on  shore  at  Nine  in  a  calm,  and  was  lying  there  a  total 
wreck. 

Tlie  loss  of  a  second  mission  ship  was  a  sad  blow  to 
us,  and  a  grievous  interruption  to  our  work  in  many 
ways.  We  endeavoured  to  meet  the  circumstances  as 
best  we  could.  Immediate  steps  were  taken,  so  far  as 
anything  was  in  our  power,  towards  getting  another  vessel ; 
and  trading  vessels  were  engaged  to  do  our  work  in  the 
meanwhile,  in  as  far  as  it  was  practicable  to  obtain  such 
vessels. 

Our  contributions  this  year  reached  a  higher  figure 
than  they  had  ever  done  before.  In  the  district  of  Aj)ia 
we  had  for  home  £166, 19s.,  and  for  the  London  Missionary 
Society,  £220,  Os.  9d. ;  and  in  Saluafata  district,  now  under 
the  care  of  Mr  Watson,  there  was  for  the  London  Mission- 
ary Society  £100. 

A  subject  of  great  importance  occupied  our  attention 
at  a  general  meeting  of  the  mission  held  in  September 
of  this  year.  The  edition  of  the  Samoan  Bible,  printed 
for  us  by  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society  a  few 
years  before,  was  all  but  sold  out.  The  edition  consisted 
of  10,000.  It  was  invoiced  to  us  at  £3000  odd,  all 
which  sum  had  been  accounted  for  to  the  Bible  Society ; 
and  it  was  now  felt  that  the  time  had  come  when  steps 


426  ANOTHER  VISIT  TO  TUTU  I  LA. 

should  be  taken  towards  getting  another  edition,  and  a 
minute  to  this  effect  was  adopted.  It  was  resolved  that 
an  application  should  be  made  to  the  British  and  Foreign 
Bible  Society,  and  that  the  forthcoming  edition  should 
be  stereotyped;  and  the  task  of  giving  a  final  revision 
to  the  work  in  order  to  that,  was  devolved  upon  Mr  Pratt 
and  myself  The  task  was  undertaken,  and  we  were 
occupied  with  it,  during  intervals  longer  or  shorter,  for 
over  three  years.  It  was  begun  in  March  1867,  and 
finished  in  July  1870. 

Early  in  1868  it  again  fell  to  our  lot  to  visit  Tutuila, 
it  being  still  without  a  resident  missionary.  We  left 
home  on  the  21st  of  January,  and  spent  about  a  month 
between  the  two  stations,  Pangopango  and  Leone.  Our 
visit  was  cheering  to  ourselves,  and  it  was  appreciated 
by  the  natives,  and  I  trust  it  was  useful  to  them.  We 
found  over  one  hundred  candidates  for  church-membership 
at  Pangopango,  with  all  of  whom  I  conversed  individually, 
and  seventy-two  of  them  were  received  to  the  church. 
It  was  a  curious  comcidence  that  in  the  Leone  district 
the  number  of  candidates  was  also  one  hundred,  and 
that  the  number  of  admissions  was  seventy-one — one 
less  than  at  Pangopango.  We  saw  evidence  at  both 
stations  of  a  decidedly  improved  state  of  things  com- 
pared with  what  we  found  on  our  former  visit,  and  re- 
turned to  our  own  sphere  of  labour  hopeful  and  encouraged 
with  reference  to  the  future  of  Tutuila. 

On  reaching  home,  on  the  23d  of  February,  we  found 
all  bustle  and  excitement.  An  event  was  on  the  eve 
of  taking  place,  which,  on  account  of  the  consequences  to 
which  it  led,  is  entitled  to  particular  notice.  Since  the 
death  of  Malietoa,  son  of  the,  Malietoa  who  received  Mr 
Williams  in  1830,  which  took  place  about  two  years 
before  the  date  at  which  we  have  now  arrived,  there 
had   been  no  proper  settlement  as  to  who  should  bear 


POLITICAL  DISTURBANCES.  427 

his  name  and  be  regarded  as  liis  successor.  There  were 
two  candidates  who  aspired  to  fill  the  vacant  post — a  young 
man  named  Laupepa,  a  son  of  the  late  Malietoa,  and  an 
elderly  man  named  Pea,  a  younger  brother  of  the  first- 
named  Malietoa. 

Each  of  the  candidates  had  a  party  who  espoused  his 
cause,  and,  down  to  this  time,  no  decisive  steps  had  been 
taken  by  either  party. 

Now  the  adherents  of  the  young  man  belonging  to  the 
Tuamasanga,  one  of  the  tliree  political  divisions  of  Upolu — 
that  in  which  Apia  is  situated — determined  to  have  him 
formally  inaugurated  as  their  "  king ; "  and  on  the  25th 
of  Tebruary  of  this  year,  18G7,  the  "anointing,"  as  the 
natives  called  it,  took  place.  The  event  was  allowed 
by  the  other  party  to  pass  quietly,  but  they  were  greatly 
offended.  They  complained  of  the  manner  in  which  the 
thing  was  gone  about,  and  it  became  the  real  or  pretended 
cause  of  a  series  of  calamities,  which,  in  their  sad  con- 
sequences, involved  all  the  Leeward  Islands.  Other 
gi'ounds  there  were  of  dissatisfaction  on  the  part  of  the 
adherents  of  Pea,  which  we  shall  not  stop  to  specify. 
Some  of  them  had  at  least  a  show  of  reason,  but  the  more 
important,  which  really  lay  at  the  root  of  the  whole,  had 
their  origin  in  jealousy  of  the  party  who  espoused  the 
young  man's  cause;  and  what  took  place  in  connection 
with  his  inauguration  was  made  the  pretext  for  the  deter- 
mined attempts  which  were  afterwards  made  to  bring  them 
into  subjection,  and  deprive  them  of  all  that  men  hold 
dear  in  the  present  life.  I  was  in  the  very  midst  of  the 
strife,  and  had  every  opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted 
with  the  views  and  intentions  of  hoth  parties,  and  the 
above  is  the  conclusion — the  (nily  conclusion — to  which 
I  could  come. 

Our  contributions  this  year  at  Apia  were  a  little 
affected  by  the  troubles  that  were  looming  in  the  near 


428  VOYAGE  TO  THE  TOKELAU  GROUP. 

distance.  Still  we  had  a  goodly  sum — £378,  8s.  for  home 
and  abroad ;  and  in  some  other  districts  the  sums  raised 
were  larger  than  they  had  ever  been  before.  Over  £2000 
were  raised  throughout  the  group. 

In  August  of  this  year  I  made  a  little  missionary 
voyage.  The  Tokelau  group,  on  which  evangelistic  efforts 
had  been  carried  on  since  1861,  had  not  been  visited  for 
a  number  of  years  in  consequence  of  the  loss  of  our 
mission  ships.  Correspondence  had  been  kept  up  with 
the  teachers,  and  supplies  sent  to  them  at  not  distant 
intervals ;  but  a  visit  was  greatly  needed,  and  an  oppor- 
tunity which  now  offered  of  engaging  a  vessel  was  gladly 
embraced. 

The  vessel  in  which  the  voyage  was  made  was  the 
"Wild  Wave,"  a  Sydney  trader.  We  set  out  on  our 
voyage  on  the  20th  of  August,  taking  with  us  three 
teachers  and  their  wives,  two  of  whom  were  natives  of 
Niue,  the  first  who  had  gone  from  that  island  as  evan- 
gelists to  other  lands. 

The  Tokelau  mission  had  had  an  eventful  history  down 
to  the  date  at  which  we  have  now  arrived.  On  that, 
however,  we  must  not  dwell,  but  content  ourselves  with 
a  very  brief  notice  of  the  state  in  wiiich  we  found  the 
islands  now,  and  of  our  proceedings  during  our  visit. 

Our  first  call  was  at  a  small  island  named  Olosenga,  or 
Quiros  Island,  170  miles  from  Samoa,  which,  though  an 
interesting  little  spot,  we  must  not  stop  further  to  notice. 
We  made  the  island  of  Fakaofo,*  the  most  important 
island  of  the  Tokelau  group,  on  Sabbath  the  24th  of 
August,  towards  evening.  When  we  got  within  a  con- 
venient distance  a  boat  was  lowered,  and  we  pulled  in 
towards  the  reef.  This  we  found  it  impossible  to  cross  in 
the  boat.  It  appeared  to  be  low  water,  and,  as  the  waves 
receded,  it  stood  high  and  bold  out  of  the  deep  sea  like 

*  Fakaofo  is  in  lat.  9°  26'  S.,  and  long.  171°  12'  W. 


PLEASING  STATE  OF  THINGS  ON  FAKAOFO.    429 

a  liuo-e  rampart.  The  sea  was  breaking  heavily  over  it, 
and  there  is  scarcely  anything  of  an  opening,  so  we  could 
only  lie  upon  our  oars  at  a  safe  distance,  and  wait  till  the 
natives  came  to  the  rescue  in  their  canoes.  This  they 
were  cautious  in  doing,  as  the  fear  of  the  slavers  was  still 
upon  them ;  but  no  sooner  did  they  ascertain  who  their 
visitors  were,  than  confidence  and  joy  took  the  place  of 
distrust  and  fear ;  and  with  their  help  the  formidable  reef 
was  safely  crossed,  and  we  were  soon  among  our  rejoicing 
friends  on  shore.  The  people  live  altogether  in  one  settle- 
ment, so  the  whole  community  were  assembled  near  the 
landing-place.  I  was  surprised  and  cheered  to  find  such 
a  number  of  people,  after  so  many  had  been  carried  away 
by  the  slavers.  No  fewer  than  116  persons  fell  into  their 
cruel  hands,  and  of  that  large  number,  only  three  found 
their  way  back  to  their  native  land.  Most  of  those  who 
were  carried  off  were  men,  hence  the  adult  male  population 
was  still  comparatively  small ;  but  the  number  of  children 
of  both  sexes  gave  one  the  impression  of  a  thriving  com- 
munity. The  total  number  was  under  200.  Of  these, 
130  were  Protestants,  and  the  remainder  Papists.  Popery 
had  gained  a  footing  on  the  island  while  it  was  so  long 
left  unvisited. 

Soon  after  landing  we  proceeded  to  the  little  chapel, 
which  was  crowded  with  apparently  devout  and  earnest 
worshippers. 

After  the  service  a  list  of  candidates  for  church-member- 
ship was  handed  to  me  containing  thirty  names.  With 
these  I  conversed  one  by  one.  Seventeen  were  selected — 
ten  women  and  seven  men — who  were,  as  far  as  man  could 
judge,  eligible  for  church-fellowship ;  and  on  the  following 
morning  they  made  a  public  profession  of  their  faith  in 
Christ  by  being  baptized  in  His  name ;  after  which,  we 
observed  together  the  ordinance  which  is  to  show  forth 
His  death  until  He  come.     The  occasion  was  solemn  and 


430  CHURCHES  ORGANISED. 

delightful — the  inauguration  of  a  new  era  in  the  little 
island's  history ;  the  visible  setting  up  of  the  kingdom  of 
Christ  in  a  spot  but  recently  reclaimed  from  "  Satan's  dark 
domains."  Mafala,  one  of  the  teachers  whom  we  had 
brought,  a  native  of  Savaii,  from  Mr  Pratt's  district,  was 
left  in  charge  of  the  newly-formed  church,  and  as  teacher 
of  Fakaofo. 

All  the  Protestant  part  of  the  population  who  were 
capable  of  learning  to  read  had  been  taught.  The  Word  of 
God  was  prized  exceedingly ;  and,  as  we  have  seen,  a 
fair  proportion  afforded  evidence  that  it  had  come  to 
them  not  in  word  only,  but  in  power  and  in  the  Holy 
Ghost.  The  poor  people  loaded  us  with  kindness,  in  the 
shape  of  provisions  for  the  ship,  mats,  &c.  Their 
gratitude  seemed  to  know  no  bounds,  and  they  begged, 
with  great  earnestness,  that  they  might  not  be  forgotten 
in  the  future ;  and  these  are  the  people  who,  but  a  few 
years  before,  would  on  no  account  allow  a  Christian 
teacher  to  live  among  them  !  How  wonderful  the  change, 
and  how  remarkable  that  it  should  have  been  effected 
under  the  circumstances !  With  mutual  regrets  that  we 
were  obliged  so  soon  to  part,  we  bade  each  other  adieu, 
and  the  same  evening  stood  on  our  way,  and,  on  Thursday 
the  27th  of  August,  we  reached 

ATAHU, 

Atahu  is  in  lat.  8°  33'  S.,  and  long.  172°  25'  W.  Like 
Fakaofo,  it  consists  of  a  number  of  islets,  dotted  round  a 
circular  reef,  which  encloses  a  lagoon,  somewhat  smaller 
than  that  of  Fakaofo.  The  islands  are  said  to  be  about 
twenty  in  number.  About  thirty  ot  the  people  were 
carried  off  by  the  slavers,  none  of  whom  had  returned  ;  and 
at  the  time  of  our  visit  the  population  was  about  150  or 
160,     Difiiculties  had  arisen  between  the  people  and  the 


'  NE  W  ERAS  IN  A  UGURA  TED.  43 1 

teacher,  which  rendered  it  necessary  that  another  teacher 
should  take  his  pLace.  So  Fataiki,  a  very  promising 
young  man  from  Savage  Island,  was  appointed  his  suc- 
cessor. 

I  conversed  with  thirty-five  candidates,  and  out  of 
these,  twenty-eight  were  selected — twenty-one  women  and 
seven  men — and  a  church  was  organised.  Most  of  those 
who  composed  the  newly-formed  church  had  been 
candidates  for  four,  five,  or  more  years.  Similar  services 
were  held  here  as  at  Fakaofo  ;  the  kindness  and  liberality 
of  the  people  were  equally  great,  and  appearances  were 
not  less  pleasing  ;  and  so  ended  my  visit  to  these 
interesting  little  communities.  May  the  good  Shepherd 
Himself  have  them  in  His  safe  keeping  !  To  Him  and  to 
the  word  of  His  grace  we  commend  them  and  their 
pastors,  "  which  is  able  to  keep  them  from  falling,  and 
to  give  them  an  inlieritance  among  all  them  that  are 
sanctified." 

We  got  back  to  Samoa  on  the  27th  of  September. 
Notliincc  of  much  moment  had  occurred  during  our 
absence.  With  reference  to  political  matters,  compli- 
cations continued  to  multiply  during  the  remaining 
months  of  the  year,  and  the  new  year,  1869,  opened  upon 
us  under  circumstances  anything  but  promising.  A  dark 
cloud  hung  over  the  future,  and  though  we,  aided  by  the 
teachers,  and  the  neutral  parties  belonging  to  both  sides, 
strove,  by  every  means  in  our  power,  to  bring  about  a 
peaceful  settlement  of  existing  difficulties,  all  our  efforts 
were  fruitless.  It  ought  to  be  stated  that  one  of  the  war 
parties  was  strongly  inclined  to  peace  all  through,  and  at 
any  stage  of  the  war  they  would  have  listened  to  any 
reasonable  proposals  from  the  other  party,  or  they  would 
have  referred  the  matters  in  dispute  to  arbitration,  binding 
themselves  to  submit  to  the  decision  to  which  arbiters, 
fairly  chosen,  might  come. 


432  TROUBLOUS  TIMES. 

Trying  times  indeed  were  those  tlirougli  wliicli  at  tins 
time  we  were  called  to  pass.  It  is  one  of  the  worst 
features  of  Samoan  wars,  that  they  drag  on  for  such  a 
length  of  time  before  anything  decisive  is  done,  and,  on 
this  account,  the  incidental  evils  are  much  greater  than 
they  would  otherwise  be. 

Matters  became  worse  and  worse,  till  at  length,  on  the 
20tli  of  March,  that  which  we  had  so  long  feared  came 
upon  us.  The  Tuamasanga  party  kept  strictly  on  the 
defensive,  till  they  were  compelled  to  fight  by  the  other 
party  attacking  them  on  their  own  territory,  within  a 
few  miles  of  Apia.  There  was  a  sharp  fight  on  the 
evening  of  the  day  I  have  named,  Friday  the  20th  of 
March;  and  on  Saturday  and  Sabbath  there  was  more 
fighting,  and  serious  loss  of  life,  for  a  Samoan  war,  on 
both  sides.  About  thirty  or  more  of  each  party  fell,  and 
many  were  wounded  more  or  less  seriously. 

A  grand  attack  was  to  have  been  made  on  the  follow- 
ing day  by  the  itu  tana  tele  (the  great  war  party),  as  it 
was  called,  which  it  was  hoped  by  the  said  party  would 
be  decisive;  but,  the  smaller  party  feeling  themselves 
unable  to  stand  their  ground,  fled  for  help  and  succour 
to  other  districts  of  Upolu,  which  up  to  this  point  had 
remained  neutral.  Between  sunset  on  Sabbath  and  sun- 
rise on  Monday,  they  took  their  departure,  leaving  their 
lands  and  their  \Tllages  a  prey  to  the  spoiler.  This  was 
a  politic  move  on  their  part,  and  perhaps  it  was  the 
wisest  thing  tliey  could  do  ;  but  it  led  to  the  war  becomino- 
general  throughout  the  island  of  Upolu,  and  to  its  beino- 
indefinitely  prolonged. 

And  now  followed  dreary  and  anxious  months,  over 
which  we  must  pass  in  silence.  The  effects  of  the  war 
were  deeply  trying.  Our  people  were  in  exile,  and  their 
lands  and  homes  were  in  the  hands  of  strangers,  and  we 
were  left  with  only  a  little  band  around  us,  consisting  of 


PROGRESS  IN  BIBLICAL  REVISION.  433 

our  teachers,  and  a  few  otliers,  who,  on  account  of  age 
and  infirmity,  or  some  other  cause,  had  kept  out  of  the 
war.  It  was  a  very  difficult  thing  for  any  one  who  was 
able  to  go  to  the  war  to  keep  aloof  from  it  in  the 
Tuamasanga,  inasmuch  as  the  people  of  that  district 
were  fighting  for  all  that  men  hold  dear  on  earth — tlieir 
homes,  their  liberties,  their  lives. 

The  comparative  leisure  which  the  war  necessitated 
enabled  Mr  Pratt  and  myself  to  make  much  more  rapid 
progress  than,  under  ordinary  circumstances,  we  should 
have  been  able  to  do  with  our  revision  work.  Otlier 
missionary  duties  were  kept  up,  as  far  as  practicable,  and 
now  and  again  efforts  were  made  towards  effecting  a 
reconciliation  between  the  hostile  parties  ;  and  so  matters 
went  on  for  many  months,  hope  and  fear  alternating  with 
the  changing  aspects  of  our  little  political  horizon. 


(434) 


CHAPTER  L. 

ARKIVAL  OF  THE  THIRD  "JOHN  WILLIAMS  "  —  A  VOTAGE  ON  ACCOUNT  OF 
HEALTH — CALL  AT  ANEITEUM,  AND  IMPORTANT  CONSULTATIONS — GENERAL 
IMPRESSION  RESPECTING  THE  STATE  OF  OUR  MISSIONS — VOYAGE  OF  THE 
"JOHN  WILLIAMS"  TO  SYDNEY — DEPARTURE  OF  DR  AND  MRS  TURNER 
FOR  ENGLAND — THE  NEW  EDITION  OF  THE  SAMOAN  BIBLE — DECISION 
TO  REMOVE  TO  THE  LOYALTY  ISLANDS — THE  REVISION  OF  THE  BIBLE 
FINISHED — MORE  FIGHTING,  AND  LARGE  LOSS  OF  LIFE — LAST  MIS- 
SIONARY MEETINGS  IN    SAMOA WAITING — CESSATION   OF  THE  WAR — THE 

TUAMASANGA    RESTORED  TO    THEIR  OWN    LAND ARRANGEMENT    FOR    OUR 

DEPARTURE — OUR  WORK  IN  SAMOA  DONE  — LAST  SABBATH  IN  SAMOA — 
KINDNESS  OF  NATIVES  AND  FOREIGN  RESIDENTS^DEPARTURE — CLOSING 
REMARKS. 

In  the  midst  of  the  worry  and  excitement  connected 
with  the  war,  an  event  of  no  common  interest  occurred 
which  greatly  cheered  us.  On  tlie  13th  of  July  of  this 
year,  1869,  a  new  "  John  Williams  "  arrived  !  It  would 
not  be  easy  to  speak  too  strongly  as  to  the  satisfaction 
with  which  this  event  was  hailed.  We  had  had  so  much 
difficulty  in  obtaining  the  services  of  trading  vessels,  and 
had  been  obliged,  to  so  great  an  extent,  to  neglect  our  out- 
stations,  that  to  have  again  a  vessel  of  our  own  was  a  very 
high  gratification.  And  our  pleasure  was  not  a  little 
enhanced  by  the  character  of  the  vessel.  Such  a  trim, 
neat,  beautiful  little  craft,  just  the  very  thing  we  wanted. 
How  we  thanked  (}od,  and  took  courage ! 

The  arrival  of  the  vessel  was  very  opportune  for  some 
of  us.  Our  long-continued  labours,  together  with  the 
constant  anxiety  and  suffering  connected  with  the  war, 


A   VOYAGE— IMPORTANT  CONSULTATIONS.     435 

had  told  considerably  upon  our  health.  On  former 
occasions,  when  change  was  needed,  it  was  only  in  the 
case  of  one — now  we  both  needed  a  change ;  and  it  had  been 
arranged,  some  time  before  the  arrival  of  the  vessel,  that 
when  she  did  arrive,  we  should  be  at  liberty  to  take  a 
voyage,  and  this  arrangement  was  now  carried  into  effect. 

We  sailed  on  the  30th  of  July,  and  directed  our  course 
towards  the  Loyalty  Islands.  I  found  useful  employment 
on  board  in  going  on  with  revision  work ;  and  as  I  was 
free  from  interruption,  and  the  voyage  lasted  over  three 
months,  a  considerable  amount  of  work  was  got  through, 
which  greatly  facilitated  progress  when  Mr  Pratt  and  I 
were  again  able  to  meet. 

We  met  with  much  during  the  voyage  which  it  would 
be  pleasant  to  notice  in  these  records  did  space  permit. 
Our  call  at  Aneiteum,  on  our  way  to  the  Loyalty  Islands, 
is  entitled  to  particular  notice.  There  it  was  my 
privilege  to  meet  the  three  senior  members  of  the  New 
Hebrides  mission,  Dr  Geddie,  Mr  Inglis,  and  Mr  Copeland, 
and  to  enjoy  with  them  much  pleasant  intercourse.  The 
subject  of  greatest  moment  that  engaged  our  attention 
was  one  which  had  an  important  bearing  upon  matters 
that  were  at  the  time  engaging  the  earnest  attention  of  the 
Board  of  Directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society  at 
home,  and  of  their  agents  abroad,  viz.,  the  extension  of 
our  work.  The  time  had  come  when  we  were  in  a 
position  to  take  up  new  ground,  and  we  were  anxiously 
considering  where  that  new  ground  should  be,  whether  on 
some  island  of  the  Northern  New  Hebrides,  or  on  the 
great  land  of  New  Guinea.  Now  I  ascertained  that  the 
Presbyterian  Cliurches,  whose  agents  had  for  many  years 
been  labouring  on  different  islands  of  the  New  Hebrides, 
were  prepared  to  take  upon  themselves  the  responsibility 
of  giving  the  gospel  to  the  whole  of  that  group,  and  this 
prepared  the  way  for  steps  which  were  soon  after  taken. 


436  IMPORTANT  CHANGES. 

We  found  all  quiet  at  the  Loyalty  Islands.  Even  poor, 
down-trodden  Uvea  was  enjoying  a  little  respite,  and  the 
state  of  the  mission  wore  an  encouraging  aspect.  Such 
was  also  the  case  at  the  different  stations  on  tlie  larger 
islands,  and  on  the  islands  of  the  Tahitian  and  Hervey 
groups  appearances  generally  were  promising. 

On  the  13th  of  December  the  vessel  again  sailed  bound 
for  Sydney,  taking  as  passengers  our  esteemed  friends 
Dr  and  Mrs  Turner.  The  state  of  Mrs  Turner's  health 
required  that  she  should  again  visit  England ;  so  we  were 
able  to  secure  the  services  of  our  brother,  who  had  already 
proved  himself  so  well  fitted  for  the  work,  to  superin- 
tend the  printing  of  the  new  edition  of  our  Bible ;  and  so 
much  of  the  corrected  copy  as  was  ready  was  now  placed 
in  his  hands,  that  the  work  might  be  proceeded  wdth  at 
once  on  his  reaching  England.  The  remainder  was  for- 
warded in  detached  portions  as  we  were  able  to  get  it 
finished. 

More  than  twelve  months  had  now  passed  since  the 
commencement  of  the  war,  and  the  prospect  of  a  settle- 
ment appeared  as  distant  as  ever.  During  the  early 
months  of  this  year,  our  circumstances  compelled  us 
again  to  entertain  the  question  of  a  temporary  or  final 
removal  from  the  Samoan  mission.  Mrs  Murray  had  a 
very  serious  attack  of  illness,  and  the  opinion  of  our 
medical  brother,  Dr  G.  A.  Turner,  coincided  with  our  own, 
that  we  should  run  a  great  risk  by  remaining  through 
another  wet  season.  This  led  to  our  minds  being  much 
exercised  as  to  the  path  of  duty  during  the  months 
which  followed,  and  when,  at  a  general  meeting  of  the 
mission,  held  in  April,  it  was  proposed  that  we  should 
remove  to  Lifu,  and  take  charge  of  the  station  there,  which 
Mr  M'Farlane  was  about  to  leave,  we  were  induced  to 
comply  with  the  proposal.  The  Directors  had  requested 
us  to  send  one  of  our  number  to  Lifu,  so  the  step  we  were 


THE  CLOUD  MOVING.  437 

taking  had  tlieir  sanction.  Two  years  were  mentioned 
as  the  time  of  our  probaLle  stay,  and  our  return  to  Samoa 
was  left  open.  It  ought  to  be  stated  that  the  proj^osal 
originated  entirely  with  our  fellow-labourers.  At  our 
time  of  life,  we  should  never  have  thouglit  of  proposing 
ourselves  for  a  place  at  whicli  a  new  language  had  to  be 
acquired,  radically  different  from  those  languages  with 
which  we  were  acquainted.  When,  however,  the  proposal 
was  put  before  us  by  others,  and  the  choice  lay  between 
compliance  with  it  and  leaving  the  mission  field,  we 
gave  our  consent,  and  the  event  showed  that  in  so  doing 
we  were  following  the  leadings  of  Providence.  The  step 
proved  to  be  the  introduction  to  not  the  least  important 
stage  of  our  missionary  life.  We  were  being  led  by  a 
way  that  to  us  seemed  strange,  but  it  was  the  "  right  way." 
Shortly  after  the  above  decision,  Mr  Pratt  and  I 
met  for  our  last  sitting  at  the  pleasant  and  profitable 
work  that  had  occupied  us  for  so  many  months.  At 
intervals,  more  or  less  distant,  we  had  been  engaged  upon 
this  and  former  revisions  for  many  years,  and  now  the 
end  had  come.  The  important  work  which  will  live,  and 
contribute  towards  the  good  of  men,  present  and  eternal, 
and  the  glory  of  God  when  we  are  gone,  was  all  but 
finished. 

We  were  about  five  weeks  in  completing  our  task,  and 
while  engaged  in  our  peaceful  occupations  on  Savaii,  sad 
work  was  going  on  on  Upolu.  Fighting  began  soon  after 
I  left  home,  and  continued  at  intervals  for  many  weeks. 
When  I  returned,  I  found  that  about  sixty  had  been  killed 
on  the  side  of  the  aggressive  party,  and  about  forty  on  the 
other,  and  the  outlook  continued  as  dark  as  ever. 

Amid  the  war  and  consequent  confusion  that  sur- 
rounded us,  our  annual  missionary  meetings  were  held. 
The  circumstances,  of  course,  were  sad  and   depressing. 


438  A  PAINFUL  CONTRAST. 

A  striking  and  painful  contrast  did  our  small  assembly 
present  on  our  May-day  to  the  joyous  gatherings  which 
had  so  often  assembled  on  similar  occasions  in  byegone 
years.  Some  of  the  most  animating  and  joy-inspiring 
scenes  which  it  has  been  my  lot  to  witness  in  the  mission 
field  had  these  occasions  been.  Large  numbers  of  people 
were  accustomed  to  flock  together  from  all  parts  of  Upolu 
to  the  May  meetings  of  Malua  and  Apia.  There  used 
to  be  large  gatherings  in  other  parts,  but  these  two  places 
drew  together  the  largest  numbers.  As  many  people 
used  to  assemble  as  would  have  filled  our  chapel,  though 
it  was  not  small,  two  or  three  times  over;  so  the  adult 
meeting,  when  the  weather  allowed,  which  was  almost 
always  the  case,  was  held  in  the  open  air,  under  the 
shade  of  an  immense  tree  ("  the  Mg  tree  of  Apia,"  as  it  used 
to  be  called),  supplemented  by  a  number  of  bread-fruit 
trees  with  their  thick  and  graceful  foliage.  The  joyous 
groups  had  been  accustomed  to  gather,  arrayed  in  their 
gayest  apparel,  to  listen  to  the  report  and  the  speeches  with 
which  missionaries  and  teachers  from  other  stations  were 
wont  to  entertain  us,  and  to  join  in  the  songs  of  praise 
which  arose  fi^om  glad  and  grateful  hearts.  Alas  !  what 
a  contrast  now !  The  grand  old  tree,  which  had  stood 
for  so  many  ages,  and  under  which  our  first  meeting  with 
the  chiefs  and  people  was  held  when  we  arrived  in  1836, 
was  gone  !  only  an  unsightly  and  charred  trunk  remained 
to  show  where  it  had  stood,  and  upon  the  bread-fruit  trees 
also  tlie  hand  of  the  spoiler  had  been. 

The  little  company  that  assembled  on  this  doleful 
occasion  only  about  half  filled  our  chapel;  yet,  though 
we  could  not  but  feel  a  rather  deep  touch  of  sadness,  hope 
was  strong.  We  knew  that  "  tlie  night  of  weeping  "  would 
not  last  always,  and  that  a  "  morning  of  joy  "  would  in 
due  time  come.     We  remembered  that  the  foundation  of 


HOPE  IN  THE  ASCENDANT.  439 

God  standetli  sure,  and  was  not  that  foundation  laid  in 
Samoa  ?  And  though  the  storm  that  had  burst  upon  us 
was  still  raging  fiercely,  we  knew  that  it  would  si)end 
itself,  and  that  the  cause  we  loved  would  survive  tlie 
shock,  and  emerge  from  the  surrounding  ruin  fair  and 
glorious,  to  the  praise  of  Him  on  whose  faithful  words  of 
promise  our  hopes  were  built:  "Lo,  I  am  with  you 
alway;"  "The  gates  of  hell  shall  not  prevail."  Con- 
siderations such  as  these,  and  words  such  as  these,  formed 
the  staple  of  our  addresses  at  this  humble  gathering,  and 
the  occasion  was  perhaps  not  less  profitable  than  those 
of  byegone  days. 

The  sums  of  money  raised  surprised  and  cheered 
me.  We  had  at  Apia  £55,  12s.  9d.,  and  at  Saluafata 
£27,  12s.  9d. 

We  had  to  wait  much  longer  for  an  opix)rtunity  of 
getting  to  Lifu  than  we  had  expected,  and  it  was  trying 
to  wait  on  for  weeks  after  we  felt  that  our  work  in  Samoa 
was  done.  We  had  never  before  been  able  to  bring  our 
minds  submissively  to  feel  that  that  was  the  case.  There 
was,  however,  a  compensation  awaiting  us  such  as  occa- 
sioned a  joyful  surprise.  Various  skirmishes  had  been 
taking  place,  and  there  had  been  some  pretty  sharp 
encounters,  and  the  aggressive  party  were  still  suffering 
much  more  heavily  than  the  other,  and  now  they  were 
disposed  to  listen  to  terms,  so  that  at  least  an  interval 
of  peace  might  be  secured.  This  could  only  be  by  their 
consenting  to  the  Tuamasanga  being  brought  back  and 
reinstated  in  their  own  territory  by  their  allies ;  and  this 
was  done ;  and  on  the  8th  of  September  we  had  the  unspeak- 
able satisfaction  of  seeing  them  brought  back  to  their  own 
lands !  Words  can  but  feebly  express  how  this  gladdened 
our  hearts. 

On  the  Sabbath  T  enjoyed  a  privilege  such  as  I  had 


440  FINAL  DEPARTURE  FROM  SAMOA. 

ceased  to  expect  ever  again  to  have  on  earth.  Our  chapel 
was  crowded  to  its  utmost  limits  with  our  own  people. 
I  addressed  them  from  Matthew  xxi.  42,  last  clause,  and 
very  deeply  did  many  of  us  feel  that  what  had  been  brought 
about  so  unexpectedly  was  indeed  the  Lord's  doing ;  and 
it  was  truly  marvellous  in  our  eyes. 

And  now  we  were  ready  and  willing  to  depart.  God 
had  granted  us  the  desire  of  our  hearts,  and  we  felt  that 
we  should  leave  with  hope  largely  in  the  ascendant  with 
reference  to  the  future  of  Samoa.  It  was  a  great  relief 
to  us  that  a  young  brother,  Dr  G.  A.  Turner,  was  ready 
to  step  into  our  place  immediately  on  our  leaving. 

A  very  brief  interval  now  remained.  An  arrangement 
was  made  with  Captain  M'Leod  of  the  "  Wild  Wave  "  to 
convey  us  to  Lifu,  and,  on  Sabbath  the  30th  of  October, 
I  addressed  for  the  last  time  the  congregations  to  whom 
I  had  so  long  ministered.  I  preached  to  both,  the  native 
and  the  English,  from  the  same  text,  viz.,  PhiHppians  i.  27, 
and  this  closed  my  work  in  Samoa.  On  the  following 
morning,  October  the  31st,  we  bade  adieu  to  the  familiar 
and  much-loved  scenes  and  friends,  amid  which,  and 
among  whom,  we  had  spent  so  many  happy  years,  and 
took  our  final  departure. 

On  this,  as  on  former  occasions,  the  foreign  residents, 
and  the  natives  also,  as  far  as  their  circumstances  allowed, 
acted  towards  us  with  their  wonted  generosity  and  kind- 
ness. May  God  reward  them,  and  His  blessing  amply 
rest  upon  them ! 

With  a  few  general  remarks  we  close  our  narrative 
of  this  part  of  our  missionary  life.  So  far  as  our  space 
would  allow  we  have  given  the  reader,  in  connection 
with  more  personal  and  local  matters,  a  view  of  wliat  has 
been  attempted  by  the  Samoan  mission,  in  conjunction 
with  the  Hervey  Islands  mission,  in  the  way  of  extend- 


RETROSPECTIVE  REMARKS.  441 

irfg  missionary  operations  from  the  first  voyage  of  the 
"  Camden"  in  1839  to  the  present  time. 

To  the  "writer  it  has  been  a  work  of  deep  interest  to  trace 
the  history  of  these  movements,  and  their  issues.  Having 
had  a  full  acquaintance  with  all  from  the  first,  and  having 
been  privileged  to  have  a  hand  more  or  less  in  almost 
all  that  he  has  been  called  to  narrate,  his  feeKnGjs  with 
reference  to  the  various  movements  and  their  results  are 
such  as  otliers  cannot  be  expected  fully  to  spnpathise 
with  or  understand.  Still  every  reader  who  loves  the  Lord 
Jesus  Christ  will  no  doubt  in  some  measure  share  his 
feelings  of  devout  gratitude  in  view  of  the  great  things 
which  God  has  "\^TOught. 

He  has  a  vivid  recollection  of  tlie  time  when  all  that 
has  passed  in  review  in  this  volume  had  no  existence, 
except  in  the  purposes  and  hopes  of  his  fellow-labourers 
and  himself.  The  esteemed  and  beloved  brethren,  with 
whom  it  was  his  happiness  to  be  associated  in  the  early 
years  of  his  missionary  career,  were  men  of  large  views, 
of  large  desires,  and  of  large  expectations.  We  had  no 
idea  of  having  our  labours  circumscribed  by  the  narrow 
limits  of  a  single  island  or  a  single  group.  Thus  it  was 
with  the  original  party  who  composed  the  Samoan  mission ; 
and  others,  who  in  subsequent  years  were  from  time  to 
time  added  to  our  ranks,  were  in  full  sympathy  with  our 
views  and  feelings.  With  reference  to  the  subject  of  ex- 
tension, a  remarkable  degree  of  unity  has  characterised  the 
Samoan  mission,  and  we  may  add  the  Hervey  Islands 
mission,  during  the  whole  of  their  history. 

It  has  ever  been  felt  that  we  were  set  for  the  extension 
of  the  gospel,  as  w^ell  as  for  planting  it  in  our  own  more 
immediate  spheres.  Hence  we  have  pulled  together  and 
worked  together  with  reference  to  that  end,  and  the  reader 
has  seen  to  how  laroe  an  extent  tlie  Lord  lias  wroucht  with 


442  LATE  NEWS  FROM  SAMOA. 

US,  and  blessed  our  efforts.  Deep  cause  have  we,  doubt- 
less, for  humiliation,  and  none  for  self-gratulation.  Still, 
it  is  a  fact  that  God  has  done  great  things  for  us ;  and  we 
should  fail  in  our  duty  to  Him  did  we  not  devoutly 
acknowledge  this  to  His  praise. 

Late  news  from  Samoa  is  of  a  cheering  and  assuring 
character.  The  agitations  and  troubles  of  the  last  few 
years  have  issued  in  what,  we  trust,  will  prove  a  consoli- 
dated government ;  and  Samoa  is  likely  to  take  its  place 
(a  very  lowly  one,  of  course)  among  the  nations  of  the 
earth  as  a  Christian  country.  In  a  letter  lately  received 
from  Dr  Turner,  dated  March  4,  1875,  there  are  some  very 
important  items  of  news.  Negotiations  have  been  pend- 
ing for  some  time  between  the  native  authorities  and  the 
Government  of  the  United  States  of  America,  with  a  view 
to  some  sort  of  annexation.  Dr  Turner,  after  referring  to 
this,  writes  as  follows  : — 

"  Meanwhile,  the  Samoan  Government,  with  a  Duurn- 
virate  *  in  the  persons  of  Laupepa  and  Pulepule  (no  men- 
tion is  made  of  Pea),  are  doing  what  they  can  to  keep 
order.  Our  churches  in  all  the  villages  are  re-organised 
(a  general  disorganisation  took  place  during  the  war),  and 
are  increasing  in  membership.  A  second  2000  shipment 
of  Bibles  has  just  come,  and  there  is  a  rush  upon  them. 
The  first  2000  are  all  gone.  London  Missionary  Society 
contributions  keep  up  wonderfully — over  £1200  last  year, 
I  think." 

There  is  good  hope  for  Samoa  while  the  people  keep 
close  to  the  Bible.  Another  thing  which  vitally  con- 
cerns the  future  of  the  group  is  well  reported  of;  the 

*  Still  later  news  mention  the  appointment  of  one  chief  to  be  at  the 
head  of  the  Government  for  four  years,  according  to  the  American 
fashion. 


GENERAL  ADVANCEMENT.  443 

institution  for  training  a  native  ministry  appears  to  be  in 
a  state  of  high  efficiency.  In  a  letter  from  Dr  Turner  to 
the  Eev.  Dr  Damon  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  which  has 
appeared  in  print,  the  following  information  is  given : — 

"  In  company  with  Dr  and  Mrs  Nisbet,  we  are  carrying 
on  the  work  of  our  mission  seminary,  with  which,  as  you 
are  aware,  I  have  been  connected  since  its  commencement 
in  1844.  We  have  seventy-two  young  men  here  preparing 
for  the  ministry.  Their  wives  are  also  with  them.  We 
are  forming  a  preparatory  department,  under  the  charge 
of  a  native  tutor,  which  will  be  a  great  help  to  Dr  Nisbet 
and  myseK." 

The  commerce  of  the  group  is  said  to  be  rapidly  increas- 
ing. I  am  unable  to  give  statistics,  but  fifteen  years  ago 
the  value  of  the  imports  was  $88,537,  and  of  the  exports 
|110,813,  and  both  are  probably  double  these  amounts,  or 
more  now. 

It  is  a  pleasing  fact  that,  notwithstanding  the  great  loss 
of  life  connected  with  the  late  war,  there  has  been  but  a 
small  decrease  in  the  population  in  those  islands  that 
were  specially  exposed  to  its  ravages,  and  that  on 
Tutuila,  to  which  it  did  not  extend,  there  has,  during  the 
last  eleven  years,  been  a  considerable  increase.  The 
following  extract  from  a  paper,  prepared  by  the  Eev.  S.  J. 
Whitmee,  places  the  matter  in  a  clear  light : — "  Upolu 
shows  a  decrease  of  988,  over  5  per  cent,  for  the  eleven 
years  ;  Savaii  has  decreased  140,  slightly  over  1  per  cent. ; 
while  the  increase  on  Tutuila  is  296,  about  8i  per  cent, 
for  the  eleven  years." 

It  has  not  seemed  to  come  naturally  in  my  way  to 
notice  the  religious  divisions  which  exist  in  Samoa.  In 
the  different  spheres  which  I  have  occupied  I  have  had 
chiefiy  to  do  with  the  adherents  of  the  London  Missionary 
Society.      The   following   statistics   from   ]\Ir  Wliitmee's 


444       POPULATION  AND  RELIGIOUS  PARTIES. 

paper   give   tlie   present   population   of  the   group,  with 
their  nationalities  and  ecclesiastical  connections  : — 


Total  population  of  the  group, 

.      35,184 

Total  native  population. 

.      34,265 

Europeans  and  Americans, 

204 

Polynesians  from  other  islands. 

236 

Asiatics,            .... 

4 

Imported  laboiirers. 

475 

Eeligious  Parties — 

London  Missionary  Society, 

.     26,493 

Wesleyan  Mission  Society, 

.        4,794 

Papists,     .... 

2,852 

Mormons, 

126 

(445) 


CHAPTEE  LI. 

ARRIVAL   AT   LIFU — THE   NEW    GUINEA   MISSION   PROJECTED — ORIGIN   OF   THE 
MISSION — TRANSFER   OF   OUR   INTEREST   IN    THE   NEW  HEBRIDES   TO   THE 

PRESBYTERIAN     CHURCHES — FIRST      VOYAGE     TO     NEW     GUINEA FIRST 

SIGHT  OF  THE  COAST — GRAND  APPEARANCE  OF  THE  ISLAND — ARRIVAL  AT 
DARNLEY  ISLAND — DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  ISLAND  AND  PEOPLE — TEACHERS 
INTRODUCED — CURIOUS  CUSTOMS — VISIT  TO  WARRIOR  ISLAND — REMARKS 
ON    THE    ISLAND    AND    NATIVES — A    FOOTING    GAINED    ON    TAUAN  — THE 

ISLAND  AND  THE  PEOPLE — APPOINTMENTS   OF   THE    TEACHERS VISIT  TO 

KATAU    ON  THE   MAINLAND— THE   PEOPLE,    HOUSES,  ETC.  — SECOND    VISIT 

TO  DARNLEY  ISLAND — VISIT  TO  CAPE  YORK— REDSCAR   BAY — REMARKS 

RETURN  VOYAGE — SAFE  ARRIVAL  AT  THE  LOYALTY  I.SLANDS. 

We  reached  our  destination  at  the  Loyalty  Islands  on  tlie 
2d  December  1870,  with  the  expectation  of  taking  charcre 
for  a  time  of  the  station  at  Hepenehe  on  the  Island  of  Lifu, 
which  Mr  MTarlane  was  about  to  vacate.  It  soon  ap- 
peared, however,  that  that  expectation  was  not  to  be  realised. 
For  a  length  of  time  before  we  left  Samoa,  as  already  inti- 
mated, the  subject  of  extending  our  operations  had  been 
under  consideration  by  the  Board  of  Directors  in  London  ; 
and  it  had  also  been  engaging  the  anxious  attention  of  our 
brethren  in  the  Loyalty  Islands,  and  of  ourselves  in 
Samoa.  It  had  been  proposed  that  a  mission  should  be 
commenced  on  Espiritu  Santo,  or  some  other  island  of  the 
Northern  New  Hebrides;  and  the  proposal  had  been  so 
far  entertained,  that  I  had  been  appointed  by  my  brethren 
to  assist  in  carrying  it  into  effect.  We  felt  that  a  serious 
responsibility  rested  upon  us  with  reference  to  that  group, 


446     TRA  NSFER  OF  INTEREST  IN  NE  W  HEBRIDES. 

SO  long  as  no  arrangement  had  been  made  for  the  transfer 
of  our  interest  in  it  to  other  parties.  The  mind  of  our 
Presbyterian  brethren,  who  occupy  the  southern  islands 
of  the  group,  had  been  ascertained.  They,  and  the 
Churches  by  whom  they  are  supported,  were  willing  to 
take  upon  themselves  the  entire  responsibility  of  providing 
for  the  evangelisation  of  the  group,  and  in  them  we  had 
full  confidence ;  and  the  result  was,  an  understanding 
that  the  New  Hebrides  should  be  left  to  them,  and  that 
we  should  look  elsewhere  for  a  field  to  which  we  might 
extend  our  efforts. 

We  had  long  looked  wistfully  to  the  island  of  New 
Caledonia,  and  had  done  our  utmost  to  effect  an  entrance 
into  that  island,  and  re-commence  missionary  operations 
upon  it.  The  French  authorities  on  the  island,  however, 
were  inflexible,  and  we  were  shut  up  to  look  elsewhere ; 
and  a  remarkable  combination  of  providential  circum- 
stances pointed  to  New  Guinea  as  the  quarter  to  which 
the  Master  would  have  us  turn  our  attention.  That  great 
land  had  been  looked  to  as  the  goal  towards  which  we 
were  to  work  from  the  days  of  John  Williams  downwards, 
though  I  daresay  few  of  his  contemporaries  and  immediate 
successors  had  ventured  to  hope  that  they  would  live  to 
see  it  actually  reached.  Yet  so  it  has  proved,  and,  at  the 
time  referred  to,  we  were  on  the  very  threshold. 

Before  leaving  Samoa,  and  especially  during  the  voyage 
thence  to  the  Loyalty  Islands,  my  thoughts  had  been 
much  occupied  about  New  Guinea.  I  had  been  seeking 
information,  and  had  been  feeling  and  acting  very  much 
as  I  should  have  done  had  I  known  what  was  before  me. 
It  was  therefore  a  great  surprise,  when  I  reached  Lifu,  to 
find  that  a  mission  to  the  island  was  actually  projected, 
and  that  steps  had  been  taken  towards  carrying  the  pro- 
ject into  effect.  Mr  MTarlane,  who  was  obliged  to  leave 
his  station  on  Lifu  through  French  intolerance,  had  been 


A  MISSION  TO  NEW  GUINEA.  447 

instructed  by  the  Directors  to  liold  himself  in  readiness  to 
proceed  to  New  Guinea,  as  soon  as  the  way  might  seem 
clear  for  such  a  step ;  and  an  arrangement  had  been  made 
to  carry  out  the  wish  of  the  Directors.  An  agreement 
had  been  entered  into  with  Mr  Thorngren,  the  owner 
of  the  "John  Knox,"  a  small  vessel  originally  built  for 
the  service  of  the  Presbyterian  mission  in  the  New 
Hebrides.  Mr  Thorngren  had  resided  some  years  on 
Darnley  Island,  in  Torres  Straits,  and  he  was  disposed  to 
return  to  the  Straits,  and  again  take  up  his  abode  on  that 
or  some  other  island  adjacent.  Mr  M'Farlane  was  to  go 
with  two  teachers,  in  the  expectation  that  they  would  be 
received  on  Darnley  Island,  and,  that  hope  being  realised, 
he  was  to  be  brought  to  some  part  of  the  Australian 
coast,  whence  he  might  make  his  way  to  Sydney,  and 
thence  to  the  Loyalty  Islands,  while  Mr  Thorngren  would 
return  to  the  Straits,  to  engage  in  some  pursuit  on  his  own 
account,  and  have  a  friendly  eye  upon  the  teachers,  and 
assist  them  in  every  way  in  his  power. 

After  much  earnest  consultation  between  Mr  MTarlaue 
and  myself,  it  was  determined  to  enlarge  the  plan  of  opera- 
tions, and  endeavour  to  carry  out  the  object  on  a  scale 
more  in  keeping  with  the  magnitude  and  importance  of 
the  undertaking.  Mr  Thorngren  would  still  accompany 
us,  and  lend  any  assistance  he  might  be  able ;  but,  as  his 
vessel  was  only  a  large  decked  boat,  about  ten  or  twelve 
tons  burden,  we  determined  to  engage  a  larger  vessel, 
and  take  eight  teachers  instead  of  two.  AU  the  members 
of  the  Loyalty  Islands  mission  entered  into  our  views.  A 
vessel  about  eighty  tons  burden  was  chartered ;  men  were 
selected,  four  from  each  of  the  large  islands  of  the  Loyalty 
group — Mare  and  Lifu — and  all  the  necessary  arrangements 
were  made. 

We  were  to  start  (d.v.)  at  the  end  of  April  or  the 
beginning  of  May,  i.e.,  at  the  close  of  tlie  stormy  season. 


448     THE  VOYAGE— REACHING  OUR  DESTINATION. 

Hindrances,  however,  came  in  our  way,  occasioned  by  the 
wreck  of  the  first  vessel  that  was  engaged  for  the  voyage 
— the  "  Emma  Paterson."  She  was  wrecked  between 
New  Caledonia  and  Lifu,  when  on  her  way  to  take  us  and 
the  teachers  on  board,  and  we  were  detained  till  the  close 
of  May.  On  the  31st  of  that  month  we  sailed  from  Lifu 
in  the  "  Surprise,"  a  vessel  of  about  ninety  tons  burden, 
and  directed  our  course  towards  the  great  land  which  had 
now  become  to  us  an  object  of  intense  interest. 

Our  agreement  with  the  captain  of  the  "Surprise" 
allowed  him  to  spend  three  weeks  on  his  own  account 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  New  Caledonia ;  hence  our  voyage 
was  long  and  tedious. 

It  was  not  till  the  29th  of  June  that  we  had  the 
satisfaction  of  looking  upon  the  land  that  for  months 
past  had  seldom  been  absent  from  our  thoughts  during 
waking  hours.  On  that  day,  about  noon,  we  caught  the 
first  glimpse  of  the  mountain  tops  of  tlie  great  Stanley 
Eange,  wliich  forms  the  backbone  of  the  eastern  Peninsula. 
We  made  the  land  near  Keppel  Point,  in  lat.  10°  11'  S., 
and  long.  148°  E.,  and  ran  along  the  coast  within  a  short 
distance  of  the  reef,  which  at  this  part  of  the  island  pro- 
tects the  shore,  and  adds  to  its  picturesqueness  and  beauty. 
The  appearance  of  the  island,  as  we  passed  along,  was 
charming.  The  mountain  range,  about  forty  miles  distant 
from  the  coast,  with  its  lofty  peaks  varying  from  5000  to 
over  13,000  feet  in  height,  looks  very  grand.  Night  over- 
took us  near  Hood  Point,  and,  as  nothing  more  was  to  be 
gained  by  keeping  near  the  land,  we  stood  away  direct  for 

DARNLEY  ISLAND, 

and,  about  mid-day  on  Saturday,  July  tlie  1st,  we  sighted 
this  now  memorable  spot.  We  got  to  anchor  about  mid- 
afternoon.     Before  proceeding  further,  we  may  as  well  say 


DESCRIPTION  OF  DARNLEY  ISLAND.  449 

a  few  words  about  the  island  itself,  that  the  reader  may 
have  an  idea  of  the  size,  character,  &c.,  of  tlie  island 
on  which  Christianity  first  obtained  a  footing  in  Torres 
Straits. 

Darnley  Island,  or  Erub,  as  the  natives  call  it,  lies  in 
lat.  9°  35'  S.,  and  long.  143°  50'  E.  It  is  small,  about 
seven  or  eight  miles  in  circumference.  Some  parts  of  the 
island  look  pretty  as  viewed  from  the  sea,  but  all  around 
the  coast  it  is  rough  and  unattractive.  It  is  not  well 
watered,  and  there  is  no  commodious  harbour  that  is  safe 
all  the  year  round ;  but  during  the  south-east  trades,  safe 
anchorage  can  be  found  on  the  north  side  of  the  island. 
Huge  boulders  lie  scattered  all  round  the  coast,  and  in 
some  parts  there  are  great  piles  of  sandstone.  Its  highest 
elevation  is  580  feet.  The  surface  is  pleasantly  varied 
by  hills  and  valleys.  Clumps  of  trees,  larger  and  smaller, 
with  patches  of  grass  and  cultivated  spots,  and  cocoa-nut 
groves,  enliven  and  beautify  the  scene.  Mr  JM'Gillvary, 
naturalist  on  board  H.M.S.  "  Rattlesnake,"  speaks  of  parts 
of  the  island  as  resembling  "park  scenery  in  England," 
and  the  description  may  perhaps  be  allowed.  Every  part 
of  the  island  is  clothed  with  vegetation,  and  the  usual 
tropical  plants  are  found  in  abundance. 

But  it  is  time  we  were  turning  to  the  subject  which 
mainly  concerns  us — the  natives.  All  through  the  voyage 
— and  indeed  long  before  entering  upon  the  voyage — we 
had  been  looking  to  Darnley  Island  as  the  "  door  of  hope  " 
with  reference  to  the  great  enterprise  in  wdiich  we  had 
embarked.  It  was  the  only  place  respecting  which  we 
had  any  reliable  or  available  information.  Hence  it  was 
with  no  ordinary  interest  that  we  approached  its  shores  ; 
and  it  wHl  be  readily  understood  how  anxiously  we 
watched  for  indications  of  the  presence  of  human  beings, 
and  how  our  anxiety  increased  as  for  a  long  time  we 
looked   in  vain.     We   saw  no  houses  on   the   shore,  nor 

2f 


450  A  FOOTING  GAINED. 

any  other  indications  of  the  presence  of  men ;  and  night 
was  at  hand  before  our  anxieties  were  relieved.  One 
solitary  individual  appeared  on  the  beach,  nearly  opposite 
where  we  were  lying,  and  so  far  relieved  our  minds  and 
gladdened  our  hearts.  Our  courage  revived,  a  boat  was 
lowered,  and  Ave  were  soon  in  communication  with  our 
newly-found  friend.  We  got  him  to  go  on  board  the  ship 
without  difficulty,  and  managed,  through  the  medium  of 
what  is  called  Sandal-wood  English  in  the  South  Seas,  to 
convey  to  him  some  idea  of  our  errand.  Parties  engaged 
in  pearl-shell  and  heche-de-mer  fishing  had  been  in  the 
habit  of  resorting  to  Darnley  Island  for  a  length  of  time ; 
and  now  some  of  these  parties  had  an  establishment  on 
the  island,  and  from  them  the  natives  had  picked  up  a 
little  broken  English. 

On  the  day  after  our  arrival,  we  met  the  principal  part 
of  the  people  on  shore,  and  arranged  with  them  to  leave 
a  teacher  on  the  island,  and  on  Monday  the  3d  of  July 
1871,  the  great  object  was  accomplished — a  Christian 
teacher  was  introduced  to  Darnley  Island,  and  the  first 
stone  of  the  foundation  of  the  New  Guinea  mission  was 
laid.  This  object,  small  in  itself,  but  vast  in  its  issues, 
was  not  accomplished  without  difficulty.  Enemies  to  our 
cause  came  between  us  and  the  people,  and  very  nearly 
succeeded  in  shutting  the  door  against  us.  It  was  only 
by  proposing  a  compromise  that  we  got  the  consent  of 
the  people  to  the  teacher  being  left  on  the  island.  He 
was  received  with  the  understanding  that  he  should  be 
removed  in  twelve  months,  or  when  the  island  might  be 
again  visited,  should  that  be  desired.  We  had  no  doubt 
the  teacher  would  make  his  way,  if  he  were  only  allowed 
to  remain.  It  was  in  reply  to  objectors  and  opposers  on 
this  occasion,  and  at  this  island,  that  Tepeso  made  his 
memorable  speech :  "  Wherever  there  are  men,  missionaries 
are  bound  to  go," 


THE  NATIVES— CURIOUS  CUSTOMS.  451 

We  found  a  very  small  population  on  the  island.  It  is 
said  that  only  a  few  years  before  there  was  a  population 
of  400  or  500,  now  they  had  dwindled  down  to  120  or  130. 
Infanticide,  intercourse  with  foreigners  of  abandoned  char- 
acter— including  natives  of  Eastern  and  Western  Polynesia 
— and  perhaps  the  excessive  use  of  tobacco,  and  other 
causes,  had  reduced  them  to  the  small  remnant  we  found  ; 
and  similar  causes  have  been,  and  are  operating  now,  on  most 
of  the  islands  of  Torres  Straits.  Infanticide,  so  far  as 
I  have  ascertained,  was  practised  on  Murray  Islands, 
Stephen's  Island,  and  Darnley  only,  but  all  have  suffered 
more  or  less  from  the  other  causes  specified. 

We  found  the  Darnley  Islanders  in  a  very  low  state. 
The  men  were  entirely  destitute  of  clothing,  and  the 
women  had  only  a  scanty  girdle  of  leaves  or  grass.  The 
women  looked  exceedingly  degraded  and  down-trodden, 
and  the  men  only  a  few  removes  above  them ;  still  they 
did  not  seem  to  lack  capacity,  and  their  subsequent 
history  proves  that  they  do  not.  They  have  pretty  good 
houses  and  plantations,  which  they  carefully  tend.  Their 
houses  are  of  different  constructions ;  the  best  are  in  the 
sliape  of  a  hayrick ;  they  are  thatched  down  to  the  ground ; 
they  have  no  windows,  and  have  only  one  small  entrance, 
about  two  feet  in  height  by  a  foot  and  a  half  in  breadth  ; 
others  are  of  an  oblong  shape,  and  open  in  front  and 
partly  at  the  sides. 

They  had  some  very  curious  customs  with  reference  to 
the  treatment  of  their  dead — customs  which  seem  to  link 
them  on  to  countries  far  remote,  and  ages  long  gone  by. 
Instead  of  burying  their  dead  out  of  their  sight,  they 
were  accustomed  to  preserve  them.  The  more  corruptible 
parts  were  removed,  and  the  body  was  stretched  upon  a 
wooden  frame,  to  which  it  was  fastened,  and  this  was 
placed  in  an  erect  position,  and  smoked  till  all  the  juices 
of  the  body  were  dried  up  ;  and  when  this  was  effected,  it 


452  A  PAPUAN  MUMMY. 

would  keep  for  generations.  We  saw  one  of  these  Papuan 
mummies,  wliich  looked  as  though  many  years  had  passed 
since  it  was  a  living  man.  The  head  had  been  removed. 
The  skulls  the  relatives  were  accustomed  to  clean  and 
preserve  with  great  care ;  the  tongue,  we  were  told,  used  to 
be  eaten  by  the  nearest  relatives — with  what  intent  we  did 
not  learn ;  and  the  liver  was  cut  up  and  distributed  among 
the  young  male  members  of  the  family — to  make  them 
2)lucky,  as  an  Englishman  would  put  it.  The  heathen 
customs  of  Darnley  Island  are  now,  with  few  exceptions, 
numbered  with  the  things  that  have  been;  but  that  of 
preserving  the  dead  had  not  been  quite  discontinued  long 
after  the  introduction  of  the  gospel.  During  one  of  my 
visits  I  found  that  the  body  of  a  man  of  note  belonging  to 
Stephen's  Island,  who  had  died  on  Darnley,  was  being 
preserved  after  the  old  fashion.  The  people  of  Darnley, 
Stephen's,  and  Murray  Islands  are  one,  and  differ  consider- 
ably 'from  those  of  all  the  other  islands  in  Torres  Straits. 

From  Darnley  Island  we  proceeded  to  Warriok  Island. 
We  were  just  feeling  our  way  towards  the  maiuland,  and 
here  we  expected  to  find  a  man  who  could  give  us  reliable 
information  and  lend  us  important  aid.  Captain  Banner, 
the  superintendent  of  a  large  shelling  establishment,  was 
well  known  to  Mr  M'Farlane,  and  we  had  both  met  him 
at  Lifu,  and  we  expected  to  find  him  on  Warrior  Island. 
In  this  we  were  not  disappointed,  and  from  Captain  Banner 
we  obtained  the  information  and  the  assistance  we  needed. 
He  directed  us  to  Tauan  (Cornwallis  Island),  and  he  lent 
us  one  of  his  large  shelling-boats,  and  put  in  it  a  crew  of 
his  own,  to  take  us  to  that,  or  any  other  place  to  which  we 
might  wish  to  go.  It  was  all  unsurveyed  ground  where 
we  were  going,  so  the  captain  of  the  "  Surprise  "  would 
not  take  his  ship  beyond  Warrior  Island.  Warrior  Island 
is  just  a  great  sandbank,  without  fresh  water,  without 
soil,  and  without  vegetation,  except  a  low,  stunted  scrub. 


WARRIOR  ISLAND  AND  ITS  PEOPLE.  453 

only  fit  for  the  fire  ;  yet  it  has  a  population  of  about  200. 
The  natives  live  chiefly  upon  fish.  For  water,  and  any- 
thing that  it  requires  soil  to  produce,  they  go  to  a  small 
island  adjacent,  named  Turtle  Back.  They  are  said  to 
have  been  a  fierce  people  in  the  days  of  heathenism,  and, 
on  that  account,  the  name  Warrior  was  given  to  their 
island  home,  and  to  the  great  reef  on  which  it  stands, 
which  bears  the  name  of  Warrior  Eeef,  and  is  now  famous 
for  its  large  yields  of  pearl-shell.  We  did  not  attempt  to 
do  anything  amongst  the  Warrior  Islanders  during  this 
voyage.  In  subsequent  voyages,  however,  I  got  to  know 
a  good  deal  about  them,  and  found  them  an  interesting 
people.  They  received  a  teacher  most  gladly  and  thank- 
fully, and  I  trust  some  j;eaWs  will  be  found  amongst  them, 
of  greater  price  than  those  that  so  abound  in  the  waters 
that  encircle  their  poor  barren  home : — 

"  Pearls  of  price  by  Jesus  bought, 
To  His  glorious  likeness  wrought." 

They,  like  their  neighbours,  have  suffered  from  their 
intercourse  with  the  white  man,  and  with  strangers  from 
other  lands ;  but  there  is  a  considerable  degree  of  character 
and  stamina  about  them ;  so  I  trust  they  will  not  be  quite 
swept  away,  as  has  been  the  case  with  so  many  others. 

We  started  for  Tauan  with  only  a  native  crew.  Even 
the  man  in  charge  of  the  boat,  Joe  by  name,  was  a  native  of 
one  of  the  South  Sea  Islands.  He  was  from  the  Friendly 
Islands  (Tonga).  He  had  been  a  long  time  about  Torres 
Straits,  and  was  able  to  render  us  most  valuable  service 
We  got  to  Tauan,  which  is  thirty  miles  distant  from  Warrior 
Island,  all  right,  and  were  well  received  by  the  chief,  and 
the  few  people  whom  we  found  on  the  island.  These  are 
very  few;  but,  on  relative  grounds,  Tauan  is  important. 
It  is  close  to  the  mainland  of  Xew  Guinea  (about  four  or 
five  miles  distant),  and  it  is  separated  from  the  large  island 


454  BRIGHT  A  NTICIPA  TIONS. 

of  Saibai  by  a  channel  only  about  three  miles  wide ;  and, 
being  lofty,  parts  of  it  are  nearly,  if  not  quite,  free  from 
fever  and  ague.  It  was,  therefore,  of  great  importance  to 
get  hold  of  it ;  and  glad  and  thankful  were  we,  in  a  very 
high  degree,  when  we  had  succeeded  in  getting  Christian 
teachers  located  upon  it.  We  had  unsettled  weather,  and 
very  poor  accommodations  in  the  old  shaky  garret  of  the 
native  house  in  which  we  passed  the  night,  and  all  around 
looked  extremely  gloomy.  Yet  was  it  to  Mr  MTarlane 
and  myself  a  night  of  intense  interest.  As  we  thought  of 
the  great  future  of  the  New  Guinea  mission,  and  of  the 
results  which  we  fully  believed  would  flow  from  these 
small  beginnings,  v/e  felt  a  satisfaction  which  words  can- 
not express,  and  which  found,  perhaps,  as  adequate  an 
outlet  as  language  can  furnish  in  the  hymn  we  sang  sitting 
under  the  canopy  of  heaven,  with  the  great  dark  land 
before  us — "  Jesus  shall  reign  where'er  the  sun."  Wliile 
singing  that  hymn,  and  pouring  out  our  hearts  in  prayer, 
it  seemed  as  if  the  thing  were  within  our  grasp,  and  the 
glorious  consummation  were  at  hand;  and  so  in  a  sense 
it  was.  We  were  not,  and  are  not,  insensible  to  the 
mighty  obstacles  that  lie  in  our  way,  but — 

"  Mountains  shall  sink  to  plains, 
And  hell  in  vain  oppose  ; 
The  cause  is  God's,  and  must  prevail 
In  spite  of  all  our  foes." 

We  left  four  of  our  teachers  on  this  island,  two  of  whom 
were  to  be  considered  as  belonging  to  the  neighbouring 
island  of  Saibai,  to  which  we  made  a  very  interesting  visit, 
the  particulars  of  which  we  must  omit.  Two  of  the 
teachers,  who  were  intended  for  Bampton  Island,  were 
afterwards  left  here  also ;  and  our  friend  Captain  Banner, 
who  had  ample  means,  engaged  that  all  should  be  looked 
after,  and  sliould  want  for  nothing  during  our  absence. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  TAUAN.  455 

Tauan  is  in  about  lat.  9°  30'  S.,  and  long.  142'  40'  E. 
It  is  a  small  island,  not  mucli  larger  than  Uarnley.  It  is 
rocky,  mountainous,  and  much  less  productive.  There  is 
a  central  mountain,  which  rises  to  a  height  of  perhaps 
1500  feet,  and  which  slopes  gradually  down  towards  the 
sea.  Immense  blocks  of  stone  are  strewed  about  in  every 
direction,  which  give  the  island  a  rough  and  rugged  appear- 
ance, strikingly  different  from  our  beautiful  Polynesian 
gems,  that  are  found  in  the  same  latitudes.  The  natives 
are  similar  to  those  already  described.  They  are  all 
genuine  Papuans,  very  dark  coloured,  and  their  hair 
slightly  curled,  but  not  woolly.  ]\Iany  of  them  are  tall 
and  well  proportioned,  and  not  unpleasant  looking.  The 
women  everywhere  are  much  inferior  to  the  men — arising, 
no  doubt,  from  the  treatment  to  which  they  are  subjected. 
The  gospel,  and  the  gospel  alone,  Kfts  woman  into  her 
proper  place,  and  fits  her  for  the  position  she  is  designed 
to  fdl.  Apart  from  that,  selfish,  ungenerous  man  will  not 
concede  to  her  her  proper  rights — will  not  allow  her  to  rise 
to  an  equality  with  himself. 

The  Papuans  neither  paint  their  bodies,  nor  take  much 
pains  to  ornament  them.  Armlets,  a  piece  of  pearl-shell, 
polished,  and  formed  into  a  crescent  shape,  and  suspended 
from  the  neck,  and  beads  suspended  from  the  lobe  of  the 
ear,  are  about  all  the  adornments  seen  amongst  them. 

We  had  occasion  to  make  a  second  visit  to  Tauan  during 
our  voyage ;  and,  on  our  way  back  to  Warrior  Island,  we 
called  at  Katau,  a  place  on  the  mainland  of  New  Guinea. 
Katau  is  about  thirty  miles  to  the  east  of  Tauan.  It  is  a 
large  and  populous  village,  near  to  a  river  of  considerable 
size.  We  were  not  the  first  white  men  who  visited  this 
place.  Captain  Banner  and  Lieutenant  Chester  from 
Somerset  had  been  to  it  some  months  before  we  were ; 
but  we  were  told  that  they  landed  armed,  and  that  the 
natives  were  frightened,  and  all  fled  into  the  bush,  except 


456  VISIT  TO  THE  MAINLAND. 

a  few  who  seemed  to  liave  more  courage  than  their  neigh- 
bours. Hence  we  were  the  first  wliite  men  that  most  of 
them  had  seen,  and  this  accounts  for  the  intense  curiosity 
tliey  manifested.  They  must  see  different  parts  of  the  body 
— the  breast  and  the  legs  especially — in  order  to  satisfy 
themselves  that  we  were  really  white.  Perhaps  they 
fancied  our  faces  were  'painted.  They  gave  us  a  most 
friendly  welcome,  and  we  trod  the  soil  of  New  Guinea  for 
the  first  time  without  fear,  and  felt  as  if  we  were  among 
friends.  We  saw  no  women  on  this  occasion,  but  we 
learned  that  they  were  seeking  to  gratify  their  curiosity 
liy  peering  at  us  through  the  chinks  and  crevices  of  the 
houses  where  they  were  concealed. 

The  houses  specially  attracted  our  attention.  As  on 
other  parts  of  New  Guinea,  and  even  on  Saibai  and  Tauan, 
they  are  built  on  stakes  eight  or  ten  feet  high.  But  here 
theu'  size  far  exceeded  anything  we  had  before  seen.  One 
which  we  measured  was  over  a  hundred  feet  in  length ; 
yet  that  was  small,  if  the  following  extract  from  Lieu- 
tenant Chester's  journal  may  be  relied  upon.  I  don't 
know  on  what  part  of  the  island  the  houses  referred  to 
were  seen : — "  Some  of  the  houses  were  upwards  of  three 
hundred  feet  in  length,  and  appeared  like  immense  tunnels 
when  viewed  inside."  So  far  as  I  have  seen,  the  houses 
are  not  generally  divided  into  separate  apartments.  A 
large  number  of  people  no  doubt  live  together  in  the  same 
house ;  perhaps  three  or  four  generations  may  be  found  in 
those  of  the  largest  dimensions.  There  is  a  rough  plat- 
form, a  sort  of  verandah,  in  front,  nearly  on  a  level  with 
the  floor,  and  this  is  reached  by  a  ladder  of  very  inferior 
construction.  All  the  houses  we  saw,  both  on  the  islands 
and  on  the  mainland,  are  built  chiefly  of  tlie  hamhoo.  The 
roofs  are  thatched,  and  the  sides  are  enclosed  with  the 
pandanus  leaf. 

Before  finally  quitting  Torres  Straits,  we  made  a  second 


VISIT  TO  RED  SCAR  BA  V.  457 

visit  to  Darnley  Island,  to  ascertain  whether  all  was  ri^lit 
there;  and,  having  satisfied  ourselves  on  that  point,  we 
commenced  our  return  voyage,  well  satisfied  so  far  with 
the  results.  The  end  of  our  voyage  had,  by  the  help  of 
God,  been  gained.  We  had  got  possession  of  keys  which, 
we  believed,  would  in  due  time  open  the  great  land  to  the 
churches  of  God  as  a  field  of  missionary  enterprise,  and 
to  the  world  as  a  field  of  scientific  research  and  com- 
mercial enterprise. 

It  did  not  enter  into  the  plan  of  oi'.r  voyage  to  go 
beyond  the  islands  of  the  Straits,  and  the  coast  imme- 
diately adjacent ;  but  the  captain  determined  to  call  at 
Redscar  Bay  on  our  way  back  to  the  Loyalty  Islands,  so 
we  had  a  look  at  that  place,  and  gained  some  knowledge 
which  was  afterwards  of  use.  We  reached  the  great  bay 
(it  is  twenty-three  miles  in  breadth),  and  anchored  under 
Eedscar  Head  on  the  morning  of  Friday,  the  4th  of 
August.  During  the  whole  of  that  day,  though  we 
saw  numbers  of  natives  on  the  beach,  no  one  showed  any 
inclination  to  come  near  us.  We  had  before  our  minds 
the  frightful  accounts  which  former  voyagers,  who  had 
touched  at  different  parts  of  the  coast,  had  given  of  the 
ferocious  and  dangerous  character  of  the  natives  of  New 
Guinea ;  so  we  did  not  feel  very  secure  on  board  our  little 
vessel,  and  a  vigilant  watch  was  kept  all  night.  Morning 
came  and  found  all  right,  however ;  still  no  natives  came 
near  us ;  and,  as  we  had  no  introduction  to  them,  and  no 
interpreter,  and  had  not  come  on  our  own  account,  we  did 
not  feel  called  to  go  on  shore  ;  but  the  captain  sent  a  boat 
in  towards  the  beach,  and  after  a  while,  to  our  great  joy, 
it  returned  with  a  man  and  a  boy,  and  a  discovery  was 
made  which  gladdened  our  hearts.  We  were  not  before 
aware  that  any  other  than  the  Papuan  race  is  found  on 
this  part  of  New  Guinea,  so  we  were  equally  surprised  and 


45 8  THE  RETURN  VOYAGE. 

pleased  to  find  here  a  race  as  light  coloured  as  our 
Eastern  Polynesians,  and  speaking  a  language  having  a 
close  affinity  to  that  of  Polynesia.  It  was  worth  our  while 
to  have  come  out  of  our  way  to  make  this  discovery. 
Parties  belonging  to  the  ship  afterwards  ventured  on  shore, 
and  spent  many  hours  in  searching  for  what  was  to  them 
the  great  attraction  to  Eedscar  Bay — gold.  And  here  I 
may  as  well  remark,  once  for  all,  that,  whatever  may 
prove  in  the  future  to  be  the  real  state  of  the  case  with 
reference  tp  the  existence  of  gold  on  New  Guinea,  I  have 
seen  no  traces  of  it  in  all  my  wanderings  in  different  parts 
of  the  island,  nor  have  I  met  with  anything  among  the 
natives  that  seemed  to  indicate  that  it  exists ;  and  as 
regards  the  extravagant  stories  that  are  in  print  with  refer- 
ence to  Picdscar  Bay,  I  am  perfectly  satisfied  that  they 
are  entirely  without  foundation. 

We  sailed  from  Eedscar  Bay  on  the  7th  of  August. 
We  made  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  force  our  way 
against  strong  head  winds  and  seas  along  the  coast  of  New 
Guinea,  and,  after  a  fearful  knocking  about  for  a  few  days, 
we  entered  the  great  barrier  reef  of  Australia,  and  worked 
our  way  round  inside  the  reef.  We  had  a  very  tedious 
passage.  We  were  no  less  than  twelve  weeks  in  going  a 
distance  that  might  have  been  run  in  ten  days.  It  was 
the  wrong  season  of  the  year,  and  we  had  to  beat  the 
greater  part  of  the  way  against  strong  head  winds  and 
heavy  seas — often  so  strong  and  heavy,  that  we  were 
obliged  just  to  lie  at  anclior,  and  wait  till  the  weather 
moderated.  We  were  more  than  once  in  imminent  danger 
of  being  shipwrecked,  and  we  had  some  rather  trying 
experiences  on  board,  into  the  particulars  of  which,  how- 
ever, we  shall  not  enter.  Notwithstanding  all,  the  voyage 
was  completed  without  any  serious  mishap  to  any  one, 
and   all   tlie   dangers   and    disagreeables   were   forgotten 


SUCCESSFUL  TERMINATION.  459 

when,  on  the  2(1  of  November,  we  dropped  anchor  in 
Lifu  harbour,  and  found  all  from  whom  we  had  been  so 
long  sej^arated  alive  and  well.  With  deeply  grateful 
hearts  we  thanked  God,  and  raised  a  fresh  Ebenezer  to 
His  praise. 


(46o) 


CHAPTER  LTI. 

EEMOVAL  TO  MARE— BRIEF  NOTICE  OF  OUR  CONNECTION  WITH  THE  MARE 
MISSION — PROPOSAL  TO  TAKE  CHARGE  FOR  A  TIME  OP  THE  NEW  GUINEA 
MISSION VOYAGE  IN  THE  "JOHN  WILLIAMS  "  TO  CAPE  YORK — DIFFI- 
CULTIES   ON    OUR     ARRIVAL— CONVEYANCE    OF     TEACHERS    TO    MURRAY 

ISLANDS — CRUISE    AMONG  THE    ISLANDS    OF    TORRES   STRAITS STATE    OF 

THE  MISSION — ARRANGEMENTS  FOR  THE  DISTRIBUTION  AND  LOCATION  OF 
THE  TEACHERS — INTRODUCTION  OP  TEACHERS  TO  THE  MAINLAND — COM- 
MENCEMENT OF  A  MISSION  ON  BANKS  ISLAND— VISIT  TO  DARNLEY    ISLAND 

REMARKABLE    COMMENCEMENT    OF    THE    MISSION    ON    MURRAY   ISLANDS 

REDSCAR  BAY — SETTLEMENT  OF  TEACHERS  THERE — BAMPTON  ISLAND 

INTRODUCTION  OF  TEACHERS — PROMISING  APPEARANCES —THE  FLY  RIVER 
—  RETURN  TO  CAPE  YORK. 

At  the  meeting  of  the  Loyalty  Islands  mission  held  at  the 
close  of  1870,  shortly  after  our  arrival  at  Lifu,  it  was 
arranged  that  ]\Ir  Creagh  should  remove  from  Mare,  where 
he  had  laboured  successfully  for  many  years,  and  occupy 
the  station  of  which  we  had  expected  to  take  temporary 
charge.  After  our  arrival  at  the  Loyalty  Islands,  and  see- 
ing the  state  of  the  mission,  and  taking  into  account  the 
prospects  that  were  opening  up  with  reference  to  extension, 
I  felt  satisfied  that  this  would  be  the  wisest  course  that 
could  be  adopted,  and  proposed  it  accordingly,  with  the 
full  concurrence  of  ]\Ir  MTarlane.  And  growing  out  of 
this  was  another  arrangement,  which  calls  for  a  brief 
notice.  It  was  decided  that  (d.v.)  we  should,  at  the  close 
of  the  New  Guinea  voyage,  take  charge  of  the  station  on 
Mare  which  Mr  Creagh  was  about  to  leave ;  and  now  tlie 
time  had  come  for  carrying  tliat  arrangement  into  effect. 


SETTLEMENT  ON  MARE.  461 

We  had  nothiug  to  detain  us  at  Lifu  after  our  return 
from  New  Guinea,  so  an  arrangement  was  made  with  the 
master  of  the  "  Surprise  "  to  take  us  to  Mare,  on  his  way 
to  Sydney,  to  which  he  was  now  bound.  We  sailed  from 
Lifu  on  the  7th  of  Kovember,  which  happened  to  be  the 
anniversary  of  our  sailing  from  England  in  1835,  and 
reached  our  destination  on  the  9th.  Here,  of  course,  we 
were  no  strangers.  We  had  never  ceased  to  feel  a  deep 
interest  in  Mare,  from  the  memorable  day  on  which 
the  first  teachers  were  introduced  to  it  in  1841.  The 
people  gave  us  a  warm  welcome,  and  we  were  soon  at 
home  among  them.  From  the  time  that  it  was  arranged 
for  us  to  settle  for  a  time  on  the  island,  I  had  been  giving 
some  attention  to  the  language,  which,  being  radically 
different  from  our  Eastern  languages,  was  of  course  new 
to  me ;  so  I  was  soon  able  to  do  a  little  among  the  people, 
and,  moreover,  I  had  interpreters  at  hand  when  such  were 
needed,  as  in  conversing  with  candidates  for  church- 
feUowship,  dispensing  medicine,  and  the  like.  On  the 
first  Sabbath  of  the  year  1872,  I  made  my  first  attempt  at 
addressing  the  people  in  public — a  very  imperfect  attempt, 
of  course.  It  was  the  thirty-fifth  anniversary  of  my  first 
trial  at  preaching  in  the  Samoan  language.  It  seemed 
strange,  at  so  late  an  hour  of  the  day,  to  be,  as  it  were, 
beginning  anew  my  missionary  life.  But  I  must  not  dwell 
upon  particular  incidents  connected  with  our  stay  on  Mare. 
We  spent  ten  months  on  the  island  very  pleasantly,  and 
not  uselessly,  I  trust,  either  to  ourselves  or  the  people. 
We  were  treated  with  great  kmdness,  and  our  health  was 
much  benefited  by  the  fine  climate.  The  climate  of  the 
Loyalty  Islands  is,  I  suppose,  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world  ; 
and  it  seemed  just  the  thing  for  us  after  our  long  residence 
in  Samoa.  It  soon  appeared,  however,  that  Mare  was  to 
be  only  a  place  of  brief  sojourn.  We  had  just  got  settled, 
and  were  beginning  to  get  into  full  work,  when  an  event 


462  AN  UNEXPECTED  CALL. 

occurred  which  changed  the  whole  current  of  our  views, 
and  feelings,  and  prospects.  Early  in  the  month  of  March, 
a  letter  reached  us  from  the  Mission  House,  proposing 
that  we  should  take  charge  of  the  New  Guinea  mission 
for  the  time  being.  The  question  as  to  where  we  should 
reside  was  left  open;  but  the  thing  could  only  be 
carried  out  in  a  satisfactory  manner  by  our  removing  to 
Cape  York.  The  proposal  took  us  very  much  by  surprise, 
and  our  first  impression  was  that  it  was  impracticable. 
True,  my  heart  was  in  extension  work  more  perhaps 
than  in  anything  else,  and  I  had  thought  it  not 
unlikely  that  I  might  be  called  upon  to  make  one  or 
more  voyages  to  New  Guinea ;  but  the  idea  of  actually 
removing  to  the  spot,  and  taking  up  our  residence  at 
Cape  York,  had  not,  I  think,  crossed  my  mind.  Now, 
however,  when  it  was  brought  before  us,  and  the  whole 
circumstances  of  the  case  were  looked  at,  we  were  led  to 
the  conclusion  that  the  call  was  from  God ;  and  that,  of 
course,  settled  the  matter.  It  was  for  us  to  arise  and 
follow  where  He  led,  and  leave  difficulties  and  conse- 
quences in  His  hand. 

So  the  decision  was  made,  and  we  had  only  to  try  to 
turn  the  intervening  months  to  the  best  account,  and 
prepare  for  the  arrival  of  the  vessel  that  was  to  convey  us 
to  Cape  York.  It  smoothed  our  way  much  that  it  was 
arranged  that  the  "  John  Williams "  should  go  to  Cape 
York  this  year,  when  she  had  finished  her  allotted  work 
among  the  islands  of  the  Pacific.  The  interval,  though 
not  uneventful,  we  must  pass  over,  and  come  at  once  to 
the  next  stage  of  our  course. 

The  "  John  Williams "  reached  the  Loyalty  Islands  on 
the  31st  of  August.  Her  work  about  the  group  occupied 
nearly  a  fortnight.  We  took  farewell  of  Mare  on  the 
11th  of  September,  and  on  the  14th  we  sailed  from  Lifu, 
and   stood   on   our  way   towards   the   great   land   which 


REMOVAL  TO  CAPE   YORK.  463 

was  henceforth  to  be  to  iis  the  all-absorbing  object  of 
interest. 

AVe  took  eight  teachers  with  us  from  the  Loyalty 
Islands,  four  of  whom  were  from  Mare,  three  from  Lifu, 
and  one  from  Uvea ;  and  we  had  also  six  teachers  from 
the  Hervey  Islands,  who  had  come  on  from  that  group, 
in  charge  of  our  esteemed  friends  and  feUow-labourers, 
Mr  and  Mrs  Wyatt  Gill  from  Mangaia.  In  the  society 
of  these  dear  friends  our  time  passed  happily  and  profit- 
ably on  board,  and  our  voyage  came  to  an  end  on  the 
11th  of  October.  We  had  anchored  the  evening  before 
at  a  short  distance  from  our  destination,  and  early  in  the 
morning — a  bright  and  beautiful  morning — we  entered 
Albany  Pass,  and  very  soon  Somerset  *  was  full  in  view. 
We  were  all  charmed  with  the  beauty  of  the  place.  The 
pass,  which  is  narrow — perhaps  about  three-quarters  of 
a  mile  in  breadth — is  formed  by  Albany  Island  on  the 
right,  as  one  enters  from  the  east,  and  the  mainland  of 
Australia  on  the  other.  A  small  bay  on  the  Australian 
side  forms  the  chief  anchorage.  There  is  also  a  bay  on 
the  Albany  Island  side,  directly  opposite,  where  tolerably 
good  anchorage  is  found.  The  bay  on  the  Australian  side 
is  surrounded  by  land  rising  a  few  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  the  houses  that  form  the  settlement 
are  pleasantly  situated  on  the  highest  parts,  and  look  very 
pretty  and  picturesque  from  the  sea. 

My  own  enjoyment  of  the  beauty  of  the  scene  was 
much  marred  by  the  anxieties  that  pressed  upon  me  with 
reference  to  the  cii'cumstances  in  which  we  were  placed. 
It  was  not  without  difficulty  that  we  found  a  resting- 
place,  even  for  ourselves,  at  Cape  York ;  and  fourteen 
teachers  and  their  families  were  on  our  hands,  and  there 

*  Somerset  is  a  station  supported  by  the  Imperial  Government  and  the 
Queensland  Government  jointly,  the  object  of  which  is  to  afford  succour  to 
shipwrecked  or  other  distressed  British  subjects. 


464  AN  OPPORTUNE  ARRIVAL. 

they  could  not  long  remain ;  and  the  "  John  Williams " 
had  done  all  that  she  was  authorised  to  do  when  she  had 
landed  us  at  Cape  York.  What,  then,  was  to  be  done  ?  It 
was  a  time  of  pressing  necessity — our  extremity — and 
happily  it  proved  to  be  God's  opportunity. 

On  the  day  after  our  arrival,  when  all  was  dark — very 
dark — Mr  Thorngren  turned  up.  He  had  been  engaged 
in  pearl-shell  fishing  in  the  Straits  in  a  small  vessel,  the 
"  Viking,"  about  eight  tons  burden,  which  he  had  got 
built  in  Sydney  after  parting  with  the  "  John  Knox ; " 
and  now  he  had  left  the  fishing-ground,  and  come  to 
Cape  York,  he  hardly  knew  why.  We  were  expected, 
but  the  time  of  our  arrival  was  quite  uncertain.  Mr 
Thorngren's  arrival  was  a  great  relief.  He  brought  intelli- 
gence as  to  the  state  of  the  mission,  which  was,  on  the 
whole,  encouraging.  We  had  heard  of  the  death  of  Tepeso 
before  leaving  the  Loyalty  Islands,  and  now  we  learned 
that  his  wife  and  child  had  also  died.  All  the  others  had 
suffered  more  or  less  from  fever  and  ague,  but  they  were 
all  pretty  well  then ;  and  though  some  were  much  dis- 
couraged, and  ready  to  yield  to  despondency,  there  was 
not  really  any  cause  for  discouragement.  It  was  high 
time,  however,  that  they  should  be  visited,  and  counselled 
and  encouraged. 

An  arrangement  was  made  with  ]\Ir  Thorngren  to  con- 
vey all  the  newly-arrived  teachers  to  Murray  Islands  in 
the  meanwhile,  where  provisions  could  be  obtained,  and 
tliey  could  remain  till  we  might  be  able  to  arrange  for 
their  settlement  on  the  islands  of  the  Straits,  or  on  the 
mainland,  as  Providence  might  direct  our  way. 

And  in  another  remarkable  manner  did  God  appear  for 
us  at  this  crisis.  We  found  the  "  Wainui,"  a  small  steamer, 
at  anchor  at  Cape  York;  and  with  the  master  of  her, 
Captain  Gay,  an  arrangement  was  made  for  Mr  Gill  and 
myself  to  have  a  passage  with  him  during  a  short  cruise 


TAKING  UP  OUR  ABODE  AT  SOMERSET.      465 

which  he  was  about  to  make  in  Torres  Straits,  and  a  hope 
was  held  out,  which  was  afterwards  realised,  that  we 
might  he  able  to  obtain  the  services  of  a  vessel,  the 
"  Loelia,"  connected  w^ith  his  establishment,  which  we 
should  meet  with  in  the  course  of  the  cruise,  to  convey  the 
teachers  to  their  destinations.  Thus  we  were  mercifully 
relieved  for  the  present. 

We  left  the  "  John  Williams  "  on  Tuesday  the  loth  of 
October,  and  took  up  our  abode  in  one  of  the  houses 
belonging  to  the  Government  station,  kindly  placed  at 
our  service  by  F.  L.  Jardine,  Esq.,  police  magistrate  at 
Somerset,  which  had  been  for  a  length  of  time  unoccupied. 
The  settlement  at  Cape  York,  though  supported  partly  by 
the  Imperial  Government  and  partly  by  the  Queensland 
Government,  is,  I  think,  solely  in  the  hands  of  Queensland 
as  regards  its  management,  so  that  to  it  we  are  directly 
indebted  for  the  accommodation  afforded  us  at  Cape  York, 
and  for  many  other  favours  which  we  received.  On 
Thursday,  the  17th  of  the  same  month,  Mr  Gill  and  I 
embarked  on  board  the  "Wainui,"  and  sailed  on  a  pro- 
specting cruise  among  the  islands  of  Torres  Straits.  Mr 
Gill,  wdth  his  family,  was  on  his  way  to  England,  but  he 
was  naturally  desirous  of  having  a  look  at  New  Guinea  in 
passing;  so  he  remained  to  accompany  me  on  my  first 
voyage,  wdiile  Mrs  Gill  and  the  family  went  on  before  to 
Sydney  in  the  "  John  Williams ; "  and  to  me  it  was  a 
great  pleasure  and  relief  to  have  his  company  and  help, 
especially  as  six  out  of  the  fourteen  teachers  that  were  to 
be  located  were  from  Mr  Gill's  own  gToup,  and  some  of 
them  from  his  own  church  and  family. 

During  our  cruise  in  the  "  Wainui,"  wdiich  lasted  about 
a  fortnight,  we  visited  the  principal  islands  in  the  Straits, 
and  learned  a  good  deal  respecting  them  that  was  after- 
wards of  use.  We  left  her  at  Katau,  on  the  mainland. 
We  were  glad  to  be  able  to  look  in  to  that  place  in  passin<T 

2g 


466     CONVEYANCE  OF  TEACHERS  TO  KATAU. 

as  we  had  an  opportunity  of  ascertaining  that  the  door 
there  was  still  open,  and  also  that  there  was  an  opening 
at  Torotoram,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  about  five 
miles  distant.  We  had  brouglit  with  us  a  boat  and  boat's 
crew  of  our  own,  and  in  that  we  went  on  to  Tauan,  there 
to  wait  for  the  "  Viking  "  and  the  "  Loelia,"  which  it  had 
been  arranged  sliould  meet  us  there.  We  had  already 
called  at  Tauan  in  the  "  Wainui,"  and  ascertained  par- 
ticulars as  to  the  state  of  the  mission,  which  was  found 
to  be  in  accordance  with  the  information  we  had  received 
at  Cape  York. 

We  got  to  Tauan  on  the  1st  of  November,  and  on  the 
Oth  the  "Viking"  and  "Loelia"  arrived.  On  the  follow- 
ing morning  we  started  in  the  "  Viking  "  with  four  teachers 
for  Katau — Josaia  and  Elia,  who  were  of  the  party  brought 
in  the  "  Surprise,"  and  Saneish  and  Pethin,  newly  arrived. 
It  was  long  after  sunset  before  we  got  near  our  destination, 
but  the  night  was  fine,  and  a  beautiful  moon  lighted  us  on 
our  way,  and  everything  looked  very  lovely,  as  we  passed 
along  by  the  cocoa-nut  groves  towards  the  river,  near  which 
stands  the  village  of  Katau. 

As  we  were  making  our  way  towards  the  anchorage,  the 
natives  hailed  us  from  the  shore,  and  asked  who  we  were. 
When  told  that  we  were  missionaries,  it  was  all  right ; 
the  natives  retired  to  their  houses,  and  we  slept  quietly 
on  board  our  little  vessel.  On  the  following  morning  we 
were  astir  betimes.  It  was  a  bright  and  beautiful  morn- 
ing, and  all  around  seemed  in  harmony  with  the  object  of 
our  visit.  The  openhig  day  seemed  an  apt  emblem  of  the 
rising  of  "  the  dayspring  from  on  high  "  on  the  great  dark 
land  of  New  Guinea. 

After  a  little  service  on  the  deck  of  our  vessel — the  first 
act  of  worship,  doubtless,  ever  rendered  to  the  true  God 
iit  that  part  of  New  Guinea — we  landed  among  the  friendly 
natives,  who  were  assembled  in  large  numbers  to  welcome 


FAVOURABLE  RILCEPTION.  467 

u.s  and  the  teachers  to  their  shores.  The  reception  given 
us  was  all  that  we  could  wish ;  and  on  the  same  day  Elia 
and  Petliin  were  also  well  received  at  Torotoram.  Tlie 
chief  of  that  place,  Auda,  was  equally  friendly  with  Mainou, 
the  chief  of  Katau,  and  both  seemed  interesting  and 
promising  men.  Auda  appeared  quite  affected  when  he 
was  told  of  the  death  of  Tepeso,  who,  during  his  short 
course,  had  made  one  or  more  visits  to  this  place,  and  who 
had  evidently  made  a  favourable  impression  on  his  mind. 
He  gave  up  to  us  also  his  figJitiiig  gear — a  bow  or  two, 
and  a  lot  of  arrows — as  evidence  that  he  meant  for  the 
future  to  give  up  w^ar  and  live  in  peace.  And  so  ended 
the  memorable  transactions  of  this  day — the  first  introduc- 
tion of  Christian  teachers  to  the  mainland  of  New  Guinea. 

We  returned  the  same  day  to  Tauan,  and  on  the  follow- 
ing day,  the  "  Viking  "  was  sent  thence  with  two  teachers, 
Uaunaea  and  Gutacene,  to  Bank's  Island  (Mua),  one  of 
the  largest  islands  in  the  Straits.  Mr  Gill  and  I  had 
visited  the  island  in  the  "  Wainui,"  and  had  made  arrange- 
ments for  the  settlement  of  teachers  upon  it.  They 
afterwards  moved  to  another  island  in  the  neighbourhood, 
Mabuiagi  or  Jervis  Island,  which  seemed  to  offer  greater 
advantages. 

Having  got  the  "  Viking  "  off  on  her  voyage,  preparations 
were  made  for  our  cruise  in  the  "  Loelia,"  and,  on  the  11th 
of  November,  we  set  out  on  that.  We  intended  to  have 
left  two  teachers  at  Ugar,  Stephen's  Island,  and  called 
there  for  that  purpose.  There,  however,  we  met  with  a 
refusal — the  first  and  the  only  refusal  I  ever  had  on  any 
island  of  Torres  Straits,  or  on  the  mainland  of  New 
Guinea.  It  is  a  very  small  island,  and  has  a  smaller 
population  than  we  had  been  given  to  understand ;  but  it 
is  very  fertile,  and  it  was  an  object,  as  we  were  circum- 
stanced at  this  time,  to  get  the  teachers  settled,  though 
it  might  be  but  for  a  time,  where  native  provisions  could 


468    PLEASING  CHANGE  ON  DARNLEY  ISLAND. 

be  obtained.  Foreign  influence  had  been  brought  to  bear 
upon  the  chief,  and  to  that  it  was  doubtless  owing  that 
he  declined  to  receive  the  teachers. 

From  Stephen's  Island  we  went  to  Darnley  Island,  and 
here  we  met  with  a  joyful  reception,  and  found  a  state 
of  things  which  greatly  cheered  our  hearts.  The  circum- 
stances under  which  the  teacher  was  left  on  this  island, 
in  July  1871,  will  be  remembered;  he  was  just  allowed  to 
remain,  with  the  understanding  that  on  our  return  he 
should  be  removed  if  that  were  desired.  What  met  the 
eye  on  every  hand  told  in  language  not  to  be  mistaken 
that  there  was  no  need  to  propose  the  question — Shall  we 
take  the  teacher  away  ?  It  turned  out  as  we  expected. 
The  teacher,  Guceng,  and  his  kind  and  amiable  wife,  had 
completely  won  the  affections  and  gained  the  confidence 
of  the  people.  It  would  be  too  much  to  say  that  they 
esteemed  them  very  highly  in  love  for  their  work's  sake, 
in  the  highest  sense ;  but  they  understood  and  appreciated 
the  temporal  advantages  which  they  derived  from  their 
presence  among  them.  They  were  no  longer  liable  to  be 
trampled  upon,  and  robbed  and  outraged  by  men  from 
other  lands — natives  of  different  islands  of  Eastern  and 
Western  Polynesia;  or,  it  may  be,  from  the  Australian 
colonies,  or  even  from  Great  Britain  itself.  Their  planta- 
tions were  now  safe  ;  their  houses  were  no  longer  plundered, 
and  their  wives  and  daughters  were  unmolested ;  and  these 
were  advantages  readily  understood  and  appreciated. 

The  people  were  generally  observing  the  Sabbath,  and 
attending  services;  and,  with  few  exceptions,  they  were 
more  or  less  clothed ;  and  the  more  gross  and  barbarous 
practices,  to  which  they  liad  been  addicted  in  their  heathen 
state,  had  been  discontinued.  Infanticide,  the  most  re- 
volting of  their  customs,  had  ceased  to  be  practised.  Four 
children  had  been  born  since  our  first  visit.  Of  these,  one 
liad  been  strangled,  one  had  been  saved  from  a  similar 


STORY  OF  LITTLE  MARTHA.  469 

fate  by  the  teacher,  and  tlie  other  two  were  alive,  and  were 
beiug  cared  for  by  their  own  parents.  We  looked  with 
very  peculiar  feelings  on  little  Martha,  as  the  teacher  and 
bis  wife  who  have  adopted  her  have  named  the  rescued 
one,  as  we  thought  of  her  little  history,  and  of  her  owing 
her  life  to  the  same  gospel  to  which  we  owe  our  higher 
life  and  all  we  hold  dear.  She  was  a  bright-eyed,  pleasing- 
looking  child,  with  delicate  features,  and  a  light  skin, 
considering  her  parentage.  What  took  place  at  her  birth 
and  rescue  is  wortli  recording.  The  teacher  remonstrated 
with  the  parents,  and  begged  that  the  child  might  be 
spared.  "  And  who  is  to  take  care  of  her  and  provide  for 
her  ? "  responded  the  parents.  "  I  will,"  said  the  teacher. 
The  difficulty  was  met,  and  the  child  was  saved.  At  the 
teacher's  request  the  unnatural  mother  consented  to 
suckle  the  child  for  one  month,  and  after  that  it  was 
taken  in  charge  by  its  foster-parents ;  and  when  I  saw  it, 
it  appeared  about  six  months  old,  and  looked  healthy  and 
strong.  How  humbling  the  fact  thus  established,  by 
evidence  that  cannot  be  gainsaid,  that  a  mother  can. 
forget  her  sucking-child,  and  cease  to  have  compassion  on 
the  son  of  her  womb  !  The  mU  on  Darnley  Island  was 
not  to  rear  more  than  three  children.  Only  one  case  of 
child-murder  took  place  on  the  island  after  the  time  of 
which  I  now  write,  so  far  as  I  was  able  to  learn.  Other 
things  of  interest  which  had  occurred  we  must  not  stop 
to  mention,  but  pass  on  to  the  next  place  visited — 

MURRAY  ISLANDS. 

These  islands  are  three  in  number,  Mer,  Waier,  and 
Dawar.  Mer,  which  is  tlie  island  of  the  group,  is  in  lat. 
10°  55'  S.,  and  long.  144°  2'  E.  It  is  750  feet  in  height, 
and  is  the  first  land  of  Torres  Straits  seen  by  vessels 
approaching  from  the  east.     It  is  only  four  miles  distant 


470  MURRA  V  ISLANDS. 

from  the  great  Barrier  Reef.  The  largest  isLand,  which, 
liowever,  is  only  aljoiit  five  or  six  miles  in  circumference, 
if  so  much,  is  a  very  interesting-looking  spot.  It  is  quite 
a  garden  for  fertility,  and  it  is  equal  in  beauty  and 
attractiveness  to  many  of  tlie  gems  of  Eastern  and  Central 
Polynesia.  The  people,  as  lias  been  already  noticed,  are 
the  same  as  those  found  on  Darnley  Island  and  Stephen's 
Island.  The  group  was  visited  in  1802  by  Captain 
Flinders  of  the  British  navy.  He  estimated  the  number 
of  the  population  at  700,  and,  if  the  teacher's  reckoning 
be  correct,  that  is  not  far  from  what  it  is  at  the  present 
day.  The  following  extract  is  interesting,  especially  con- 
sidering that  it  was  written  so  long  ago  : — 

"  Some  of  these  people  are  of  a  dark  chocolate  colour, 
others  nearly  black.  The  men  are  about  the  middle  size, 
active  and  muscular,  their  countenances  being  expres- 
sive of  quick  apprehension.  The  numerous  dwellings 
seen  near  the  shore,  and  the  plots  of  cultivated  land  in 
different  parts  of  the  island,  had  an  appearance  of  comfort 
and  civilisation  totally  unknown  among  the  savages  of 
the  adjacent  coast  of  Australia.  These  islanders  are  a 
warlike  race,  and  are  very  dexterous  in  the  use  of  their 
weapons,  which  consist  of  bows  and  arrows  of  very 
superior  construction,  requiring  in  their  use  great  strength 
and  address  ;  and  as  they  also  possess  large  and  fast  canoes 
with  outriggers,  capable  of  carrying  eighteen  or  twenty 
men,  they  are  not  to  be  despised  by  a  weak  force  navigating 
these  seas." 

These  remarks,  written  over  seventy  years  ago,  are  not 
less  applicable  to  tlie  present  generation  than  they  were 
to  their  fathers,  except  that  now  they  seem  to  be  a  quiet 
and  peaceable  race,  and  not  inclined  to  learn  the  art  of 
war  any  more. 

But  we  must  proceed  to  give  the  tale  of  the  introduc- 
tion of  the  gospel  to  this  little  group.     Mr  ]\I'Farlane  and 


L\'TE RESTING  TALE.  471 

I  liad  intended  taking  a  teacher  to  it,  and  had  arranged 
accordingly ;  hut  tlie  jdan  was  changed,  in  compliance  witli 
a  recjuest  made  by  the  teacher  of  Darnley  Island  and 
Mataika,  who  had  been  appointed  to  MuiTay  Islands, 
that  they  might  remain  together  on  Darnley  for  a  time. 

We  left  them  there,  with  the  nnderstanding  that  after 
some  three  months  or  so,  Mataika  slionld  proceed  to 
Murray  Islands,  should  an  opportunity  offer.  And  we 
had  ground  for  hoping  that  a  gentleman  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, who  was  well  acquainted  with  the  islands,  would 
convey  him  thither.  This  hope,  however,  was  not  realised  ; 
and  Mataika  was  placed  in  a  fix,  out  of  which  it  was  no 
easy  matter  to  extricate  himself.  Mataika,  however,  was 
equal  to  the  occasion.  He  was  a  John  Williams  in  a 
small  way.  There  was  wood  in  the  bush,  and  he  had  tools, 
and  health  and  strength,  and  assistance  could  be  had. 
Why  not  set  to  work  and  construct  something  that  would 
carry  him  to  Murray  Islands  ?  So  he  thought ;  and  with 
the  aid  of  his  brother  teacher,  and  two  Lifu  men  wdio 
were  on  the  island,  he  built  a  canoe.  It  was  dug  out  of 
a  single  tree,  but  it  was  raised  a  little  at  the  sides,  tliat 
it  might  not  so  readily  fill,  should  the  sea  be  rough ;  and 
in  this  poor  craft  Mataika  started  for  Murray  Islands, 
which  lie  dead  to  windward,  and  are  thirty  miles  distant 
from  Darnley.  He  had  a  crew  of  five  including  himself, 
viz.,  two  Lifu  men,  and  two  natives  of  the  islands  to 
which  he  was  bound.  His  object  was  to  ascertain  the 
disposition  of  the  people — whether  they  would  allow  him 
to  live  among  them  as  a  teacher  of  a  new  religion.  The 
voyage  occupied  one  )iight  and  two  days,  and  ended  in 
the  party  reaching  their  destination  in  safety,  and  being 
well  received.  A  boat  was  engaged  belonging  to  a 
coloured  man  residing  on  the  islands,  in  which  Mataika 
returned  to  Darnley  Island,  and  in  which  he  and  liis  wife 
and  property  were  conveyed  to  Murray  Islands,  and  so 


472  VOYAGE  TO  REDSCAR  BAY. 

commenced  the  mission  whose  simple  but  interesting  tale 
we  are  recording.  The  subsequent  history  of  the  mission 
we  found  had  been  in  keeping  with  its  remarkable  begin- 
ning ;  but,  for  the  present,  we  leave  it,  and  pass  on  to  the 
next  place  to  which  we  were  bound — 

REDSCAR   BAY. 

The  reason  why  our  course  was  now  directed  to  this 
place  was  that  I  had  a  little  acquaintance  with  it,  and  we 
had  more  reliable  and  full  information  respecting  it  than 
about  any  other  part  of  the  coast  where  the  Malay  race  is 
found.  We  sailed  from  Murray  Islands  on  the  19th  of 
November,  and  anchored  on  the  22d  near  Eedscar  Head — a 
remarkable  headland,  which  forms  the  east  point  of  the 
great  bay.  The  name  Eedscar  was  given  to  the  bay  on 
account  of  the  reddish  colour  of  the  cliffs. 

We  had  not  been  long  at  anchor  when  a  canoe  came  off 
to  us  with  five  persons  in  it.  They  appeared  a  little  shy 
and  distrustful  at  first,  but  we  soon  succeeded  in  getting 
them  to  come  on  board,  and  in  gaining  their  confidence. 
Mr  Gill  and  I  hastened  on  shore,  and,  under  the  guidance 
of  some  of  our  newly-found  friends,  we  commenced  to 
explore  the  bay.  In  this  interesting  but  trying  work, 
under  a  New  Guinea  sun,  we  spent  a  large  part  of  the 
day.  Our  guides  took  us  up  a  salt-water  creek — the  same, 
by  the  way,  judging  from  its  position,  that  on  the  charts 
is  named  the  Manoa  River — near  which  we  found  a  small 
settlement  which  our  guides  called  Ivido,  somewhat  like 
a  gipsy  encampment  of  the  olden  time  in  Scotland  or 
England.  Men,  women,  and  children,  of  all  ages  and  sizes, 
were  moving  about  without  any  apparent  order,  and  the 
appearance  of  the  whole  seemed  to  indicate  that,  though 
there  were  large  plantations  of  bananas  in  the  neighbour- 
liood,  it  was  oidy  a  place  of  call  and  temporary  sojourn ; 


DISCOVERY  OF  MANUMANU.  473 

hence  it  was  not  the  kind  of  place  of  wliicli  we  were  in 
search.  The  people  were  friendly,  but  they  showed  less 
curiosity  than  the  Papuans,  thougli  white  men  must  have 
been  to  tliem  a  rare  sight.  They  had  probably  seen 
parties  belonging  to  the  "  Surprise."  They  were  exces- 
sively anxious  to  trade,  but  they  had  little  to  trade  with, 
except  earthenware  vessels,  which  all  along  this  part  of 
the  coast,  are  manufactured  by  tlie  women  in  large 
quantities.  After  spending  a  considerable  time  in  inter- 
course with  the  people  and  looking  round  the  neighbour- 
hood, we  continued  our  explorations,  but  without  meeting 
with  any  place  suited  for  our  purpose. 

On  the  following  morning  our  prospecting  work  was 
resumed.  We  had  tried  hard,  but  without  success,  to  get 
one  of  our  guides  of  the  day  before  to  sleep  on  board,  so 
we  started  now  without  a  guide.  We  had  been  told,  how- 
ever, of  a  place  which  the  natives  called  Manumanu,  and 
they  had  pointed  in  the  direction  where  they  gave  us  to 
understand  the  place  lay;  so  we  pulled  in  close  to  the 
sliore,  and  went  in  the  direction  which  they  had  indicated, 
watching  the  shore  closely  as  we  passed  along,  and  after  a 
mry  long  weary  journey,  made  partly  in  the  boat  and 
[)artly  on  foot,  we  reached  the  long-looked-for  Manumanu, 
with  the  appearance  of  which  we  were  much  pleased.  We 
had  seen  nothing  at  all  equal  to  it  before  on  any  part  of 
the  mainland  or  the  islands.  It  stands  on  the  banks  of  a 
large  river,*  and  has  a  large  population  for  a  heathen 
village.  We  counted  ninety  houses,  many  of  which  had 
two  stories.  The  houses  are  placed  in  two  straight  rows, 
with  a  broad  street  between.  They  are  similar  in  con- 
struction to  tlie  houses  at  Katau,  but  none  that  we  saw 
are  nearly  so  long  as  these.  There  was  no  mistaking  the 
origin  of  the  people.     They  are  as  evidently  of  the  Malay 

*  To  this  river,  of  wliicli  we  were  the  discoverers,  we  gave  the  name 
of  the  Manumavu  A'/ctr. 


474  A  MISSION  IN  REDSCAR  BAY. 

type  as  their  dark  neighbours  are  of  the  Papuan.  They 
gave  ns  a  very  friendly  reception,  and  reposed  in  us  perfect 
conirdence,  and  we  saw  no  reason  to  distrust  them.  They 
signified  their  willingness  that  the  teachers  should  remain 
amongst  them ;  so,  after  looking  round  the  place,  we  re- 
turned to  the  ship,  and  during  the  evening  of  that  day, 
and  on  the  following  day,  which  was  the  Sabbath,  we  had 
very  anxious  consultations  as  to  what  plan  we  had  best 
adopt  with  reference  to  the  location  of  the  teachers.  We, 
Mr  Gill  and  myself,  endeavoured  to  look  at  the  subject  in 
all  its  bearings ;  and,  of  course,  we  sought  guidance  from 
above ;  and  we  consulted  with  the  teachers  themselves ; 
and  the  result  was  that  we  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the 
best  thing  we  could  do  under  the  circumstances  was  to  leave 
the  teachers  together  at  Manurnanu,  to  remain  there  till  I 
might  be  able  to  return  to  them,  which  I  hoped  to  do  in  a 
few  months ;  not  later,  if  possible,  than  April.  In  com- 
mencing a  new  mission,  in  a  strange  country,  there  must 
always  of  course  be  some  risk.  In  the  very  nature  of  the 
case  the  thing  is  an  experiment,  and  both  teachers  and 
missionaries  must  be  prepared  to  take  risk ;  but  it  is  our 
part  to  do  everything,  of  which  the  circumstances  admit, 
to  make  the  risk  as  small  as  possible. 

We  left  the  teachers,  six  in  number,  Piri,  Eau,  Anederen., 
Ptuatoka,  Adamu,  and  Eneri,  and  their  wives,  with  a  good 
supply  of  food  (so  it  was  considered  by  all  on  board  our 
vessel),  and  they  had  a  supply  of  medicines,  and  a  good 
boat,  and  a  little  trade.  Part  of  their  property  had  been 
left  at  Murray  Islands,  as  it  was  not  thought  advisable  to 
bring  a  large  quantity  of  property  among  a  heathen  people. 
And,  in  all  our  experience  throughout  the  South  Seas,  we 
have  found  that  natives  will  not  be  allowed  to  starve  among 
other  natives,  whereas  the  possession  of  a  large  amount  of 
property  might  expose  them  to  danger.     Still,  with  all  the 


LANDIXG  TEACHERS  ON BAMPTON ISLAXD.    a7S 

precautions  wc  could  take,  it  was  not  witliout  anxiety  that " 
we  took  our  departure  from  Eedscar  Bay. 

We  left  Manunianu  on  the  27th  of  November,  and  stood 
for  Bampton  Island,  which  lies  about  200  miles  to  the  west 
of  Eedscar  Bay.  This  island  has  been  already  mentioned. 
Its  occupation  was  resolved  upon  by  Mr  M'Farlane  and 
myself,  and  two  teachers,  Tepeso  and  Elia,  were  selected 
for  it ;  but  circumstances  had  prevented  the  arrangement 
respecting  them  from  being  carried  into  effect ;  and  now  we 
had  two  teachers  on  board  to  place  upon  it,  should  an  open 
door  be  found. 

We  made  the  island  on  the  1st  of  December,  and  had  a 
most  encouraging  reception,  and  the  teachers  Cho  and 
Mataio  were  welcomed  in  a  manner  that  removed  all 
apprehension  on  our  part  with  reference  to  their  safety. 
We  had  serious  fears  on  the  score  of  health,  as  the  island 
is  low,  and  on  that  account  it  is  likely  to  be  unhealthy ; 
but,  on  other  grounds,  we  felt  quite  easy,  and  we  hoped 
to  get  the  teachers  visited  in  the  course  of  a  month  or 
so  from  the  time  of  their  being  placed  on  the  island.  We 
left  them  with  an  ample  supply  of  provisions,  and  took  our 
departure,  satisfied  and  thankful  with  the  result  of  our 
visit. 

A  peculiar  interest  attaches  to  Bampton  Island  from  its 
proximity  to  the  greatest  river  that  has  yet  been  discovered 
in  New  Guinea.  The  island  is  separated  from  the  main- 
land by  a  very  narrow  channel — lioiv  narrow  we  don't  know, 
as,  so  far  as  I  am  aware,  it  is  as  yet  unexplored — and  it  is 
only  a  few  miles  to  the  west  of  the  opening  to  the  Fly 
PtiVER,  which  is  said  to  be  fire  miles  in  breadth  at  its 
mouth.  There  are  islands,  shoals,  and  ilats,  in  the  opening, 
which  make  it  inaccessible  to  vessels  of  very  large  drait. 
It  is  said,  however,  that  vessels  not  drawing  more  than 
fourteen  feet  could  safely  enter  by  taking  due  precautions. 


476  THE  FL  V  RIVER. 

How  intensely  interesting  would  it  l)e  to  explore  this  mighty 
river — away  into  the  unknown  interior  of  the  great  land  ! 
Captain  Blackwood  of  H.M.S.  "Fly"  found  fresh  water 
nine  miles  from  its  mouth. 

"The  population  of  this  great  delta"  (that  is,  the  space 
between  Bampton  Island  and  Yule  Island,  187  miles  in 
breadth)  "  appeared  to  be  immense,  as  villages  were  seen 
at  every  part  visited ;  but  it  was  found  impossible  to  hold 
friendly  communication  with  the  inhabitants  in  conse- 
quence of  their  implacable  hostility."  * 

,  Bampton  Island  was  the  last  place  on  the  programme  of 
our  voyage,  so,  having  accomplished  the  object  of  our  visit 
to  it,  we  returned  to  what  was  now  our  temporary  home — 
Cape  York,  and  had  the  great  satisfaction  of  finding  all 
going  on  pretty  well  there.  Our  voyage  had  occupied 
seven  weeks ;  it  had  been  anxious  and  eventful  in  no 
ordinary  degree,  and  thankful  indeed  were  we  that  it  had 
at  length  reached  a  close  satisfactory  on  the  whole. 

*  From  the  "  Australian  Directory "  for  the  south  coast  of  New 
Guinea. 


(  477  ) 


CHAPTER  LIU. 

DF.rARTURE   OF    MR     GILL — GENERAL   REMARKS   ON   OUR    RESIDENXE   AT   CAPE 
YORK — DIFFICULTY      IN      OBTAINING      VESSELS  — SICKNESS    AND      DEATHS 

AMONG    THE    TEACHERS — PAINFULLY      ANXIOUS     CIRCUMSTANCES HELP 

RENDERED  BY  CAPTAIN  MORESBY — MURDER  OF  THE  TEACHERS  ON  BAMP- 
TON  ISLAND — VOYAGE  IN  THE  "  VIKING  " — ALL  THE  TEACHEUS  BROUGHT 
FliOM  REDSCAR  BAY  TO  CAPE  YORK — OTHER  VOYAGES  IN  TORRES  STRAITS 
— FIRST    VOYAGE   TO   PORT  MORESBY — LOCATION    OF   TEACHERS   AT  ANUA- 

PATA SECOND  VOYAGE  TO  POUT  MORESBY,  AND  VISIT  TO  ALL  THE  STATIONS 

IN  THE  STRAITS LOCATION    OF   A    TEACHER  AT    BOERA  —  ARRIVAL  OF  MR 

M'FARLANE — THE  "  ELLENGOWAN  " H.M.S.   "  CHALLENGER  "  —  KINDNESS 

OF  CAPTAIN  NARES — FIRST  MISSIONARY  VOYAGE  OF  THE  "  ELLENGOWAN" 

— SUPPLEMENTARY  VOYAGE ARRIVAL  OF  MR  AND  MRS  LAWES ARRIVAL 

OF  THE  "  JOHN  WILLIAMS  " — VOYAGE  OF  THE  "  JOHN  WILLIAMS  "  AND  THE 
"  ELLENGOWAN  "  TO  PORT  MORESBY — LOCATION  OF  MR  AND  MRS  LAWES 
— RETURN  OF  THE  "  JOHN  WILLIAMS  "  TO  SYDNEY. 

From  the  close  of  the  voyage,  an  account  of  which  we 
have  given  in  the  preceding  chapter,  dates  a  very  anxious 
and  trying  period  of  our  missionary  life.  Mr  Gill  left  us 
about  a  week  after  our  return  from  our  voyage,  and,  from 
that  time  we  had  to  bear  our  burden  alone.  We  cannot 
attempt  to  give  anything  like  a  full  account  of  what 
transpired  during  the  two  eventful  years  we  spent  at  Cape 
York.  To  do  so  would  swell  this  work  beyond  aR  reason- 
able bounds.  We  must  therefore  content  ourselves  with 
selecting  the  more  prominent  occurrences,  and  endeavour- 
iug  to  convey  a  general  impression — correct  as  far  as  it 
goes. 

We  were  sorely  disappointed  with  reference  to  one  thing, 
and  to  it  was  owing  the  most  painful  anxieties  we  were 


47S  DISAPPOINTED  EXPECTATIONS. 

called  to  endure,  and  the  sharj^est  trials  through  which  we 
had  to  pass.  Knowing,  as  I  did,  before  taking  charge  of 
the  mission,  that  a  large  number  of  vessels — larger  and 
smaller — were  engaged  in  pearl-shell  and  leche-de-mer 
fishing  in  Torres  Straits,  I  depended  on  being  able  to 
obtain  help  from  them — ^just  as  we  did  on  our  first  arrival 
from  the  "  Wainui  "  and  the  "  Loelia,"  and  I  was  authorised 
by  the  Board  of  Directors  in  London  to  engage  vessels  as 
the  necessities  of  the  mission  might  require. 

But  shortly  before  we  took  up  our  abode  at  Cape  York, 
some  new  laws  were  enacted  by  the  Queensland  Govern- 
ment, with  the  praiseworthy  design  of  putting  a  stop  to 
abuses,  which  were  being  practised  by  shellers  and 
fishers  upon  the  natives  of  the  South  Sea  Islands  and  of 
Torres  Straits,  and  to  secure  for  these  men  fair  and  humane 
treatment.  Every  vessel  which  at  the  time  was  in  the 
Straits,  except  one  or  two  small  craft  which  had  recently 
arrived  with  a  licence  from  Sydney,  was  required  to  repair 
to  Brisbane  or  Sydney  to  obtain  a  licence  in  accordance 
with  tlie  provisions  of  the  new  regidations.  They  were 
allowed  to  remain  on  the  fishing-ground  till  the  close  of 
the  year,  after  which  they  were  liable  to  be  seized  and 
dealt  with  as  violaters  of  the  law.  The  result  was,  that 
during  the  early  months  of  this  year,  1873 — the  most 
critical  period  in  the  past  history  of  the  mission — no  vessel 
of  any  description  could  be  obtained. 

On  the  18th  of  January,  H.M.S.  "Basilisk,"  Captain 
Lloresby,  commander,  arrived.  The  arrival  of  a  British 
man-of-war  was  cheering  indeed  to  us  in  our  solitude — for 
solitary  we  were,  in  as  far  as  having  any  one  of  our  own 
colour,  who  understood  our  object,  or  sympathised  with 
us  in  our  difficulties  and  trials.  Kow  we  thought  a  door 
of  hope  was  opened ;  now  we  should  be  able  to  communi- 
cate with  our  teachers,  and  have  our  anxieties  relieved ; 
and  such;  to  some  extent,  was  the  case.     I  was  extremely 


IXTEXSE  A  XX IE  TV.  479 

desirous  to  get  to  liedscar  Bay.  In  that,  however,  1  did  nut 
succeed. 

On  the  25th  of  January  news  reached  us  from  tlxe 
teachers  at  Eedscar  Bay  which  did  not  tend  to  lessen  our 
anxieties.  j\Ir  Thorngren  had  come  from  Sydney  with  his 
little  vessel  shortly  before  our  arrival  at  Cape  York,  and 
had  obtained  a  licence  in  accordance  with  the  new  laws ; 
so  he  did  not  require  to  repair  to  Brisbane  like  his  neigh- 
bours ;  and  shortly  after  our  return  from  our  cruise  in  the 
"  Loelia,"  he  started  for  Eedscar  Bay,  chiefly,  I  suppose, 
with  the  view  of  testing  the  truth  of  the  reports,  which  had 
long  been  current,  that  gold  was  to  be  found  in  that  neigh- 
bourhood. Mr  T.  ascended  the  Manumanu  Eiver  a  con- 
siderable distance,  and  made  as  thorough  a  search  as  he 
was  able  for  the  reported  treasure.  Instead,  however,  of 
finding  gold,  he  and  his  companions  came  very  near  finding 
a  grave.  The  party  consisted  of  three  only — himself  and 
another  white  man,  and  a  coloured  man.  They  got  back 
to  Cape  York  alive,  but  in  such  a  state  that  many  weeks 
passed  before  the  white  men  recovered.  That  was  tlie 
reason  why  I  could  not  get  the  services  of  the  "  \'iking  "  till 
the  month  of  March. 

The  accounts  from  the  teachers  greatly  increased  our 
anxieties,  and  made  me  long  intensely  to  be  amongst  them. 
One  of  the  men,  Atamu,  had  met  with  an  accident  shortly 
after  we  left  them,  which  proved  the  commencement  of  an 
illness  that  had  ended  in  his  death.  He  went  with  the 
others  to  cut  wood  for  a  dwelling-house,  and  got  a  wound 
in  his  foot  which  disabled  him  from  further  exertion. 
He  was  confined  to  the  house ;  his  wife  was  also  taken  ill, 
and,  after  a  few  days,  she  died,  and  he  followed  after  a 
short  interval.  What  was  the  nature  of  the  disease  that 
supervened  after  he  was  wounded  I  could  not  well  make 
out.  Most  probably  it  was  fever  and  ague.  Another  of  the 
v/omen,  who  was  on  the  eve  of  her  confinement  when  we 


48o    PAINFUL  OCCURRENCES  AT  REDSCAR  BAY. 

left  tliem,  had  also  died,  and  all  the  others  had  suffered 
more  or  less  from  sickness,  and,  native  like,  they  had  been 
improvident  witli  reference  to  the  supplies  we  had  left 
them.  Instead  of  carefully  husbanding  them,  they  had 
been  serving  them  out  among  the  natives,  and  were  al- 
ready getting  short  of  some  things  themselves.  It  ought 
to  be  remarked,  however,  that  it  is  a  difficult  matter  to 
avoid  doing  as  they  did  among  a  savage  people  ;  and  it  is 
also  true  that,  as  a  general  rule,  tliose  who  shared  their 
bounty  would  return  it  to  the  extent  of  their  ability. 

The  "  Basilisk  "  had  sailed  the  day  before  the  "  Viking  " 
arrived,  and  was  on  her  way  to  Eedscar  Bay,  among  other 
places.  She  was  to  be  detained  some  time  in  the  Straits, 
and  happily  there  was  an  opportunity  of  sending  after  her ; 
so  I  wrote  to  Captain  Moresby,  begging  him  to  let  the 
teachers  have  whatever  they  miglit  be  in  want  of,  and 
stating  that  I  would  be  responsible  for  any  expense  that 
might  be  incurred.  I  sent  also  an  additional  supply  of 
quinirie,  and  a  small  supply  of  trade  for  barter  with  the 
natives.  Captain  Moresby  acted  with  great  kindness  to 
the  teachers,  supplying  them  with  necessaries  as  requested, 
and  taking  two  of  them,  with  the  wife  of  one,  on  board 
his  ship  for  a  cruise,  and  bringing  them  with  him  to  Cape 
York  on  his  return  to  that  place.  He  called  a  second 
time  also  at  Manumanu,  and  took  on  board  the  wife  of 
one  of  the  two  who  had  been  left  behind,  as  she  was  not 
ill,  and  her  husband's  case  was  less  serious  than  that  of  his 
fellow-teacher.  So  he  brought  two  families  to  Cape  York ; 
and  one  of  the  men,  at  least,  owed,  I  suppose,  his  recovery, 
under  God,  to  the  timely  visit  of  the  "  Basilisk,"  and  the 
kind  and  judicious  treatment  he  met  with  on  board. 

All  the  teachers  and  their  wives  spoke  witli  high 
appreciation  of  the  kindness  of  Captain  Moresby,  and  of  the 
doctor  and  others  on  board  the  "  Basilisk  ;  "and  their  kind- 
ness   was    much    felt    and    cordially    acknowledged    by 


DIFFICULTIES  IN  TORRES  STRAITS.  481 

ourselves.*  The  "  Basilisk  "  returned  from  her  cruise  on 
the  6th  of  IMarch,  and  by  that  time  our  invalid  teachers 
were  much  improved  in  health.  The  liealth  of  the  women 
had  been  very  little  affected. 

In  the  meanwhile,  we  had  been  having  difHeulties 
and  anxieties  connected  with  the  teachers  in  the  Straits 
from  the  same  causes — sickness,  and  impro\adence  in  the 
management  of  their  supplies,  and  the  want  of  a  vessel  in 
which  to  'vnsit  them,  and  keep  up  communication  with 
them.  We  had  brought  a  large  boat  with  us  from  Lifu, 
in  addition  to  that  we  had  left  at  Manumanu,  and  it  was 
making  frequent  visits  to  different  parts ;  and  generous 
friends  in  Sydney  and  Adelaide,  in  response  to  applications 
made  by  the  Eev,  J.  P.  Sunderland,  agent  of  the  London 
Missionary  Society  in  Australia,  had  kindly  furnished  three 
other  boats  besides ;  but  the  grand  want  was  a  small  vessel 
in  which  regular  visits  to  the  teachers  might  have  been 
made.  The  large  shelling-boats  lent  us  much  assistance, 
in  the  way  of  carrying  supplies  to  the  teachers,  and  bring- 
ing to  Cape  York  parties  who  were  ill  and  in  need  of  a 
change.  We  had  almost  always  two,  three,  or  more  families 
on  our  hands  to  tend  and  nurse.  Our  first  season  was  an 
exceptionally  sickly  one  in  the  Straits.  Happily,  liowever, 
by  the  goodness  of  God,  we  got  through  it  without  any 
death  occurring  from  natural  causes,  except  those  that 
took  place  at  Eedscar  Bay. 

But,  in  the  midst  of  other  trials,  another  calamity  came 
upon  us,  of  a  more  distressing  character  than  anything 
that  had  yet  occurred ;  and  it  was  all  the  more  keenly  felt 
as  it  was  entirely  unexpected.  The  reader  has  seen  what 
a  hopefrd  entering   in   we   had   at   Bampton  Island.     I 

*  A  letter  was  also  addressed  to  Captain  Moresby,  after  his  return  to 
England,  by  the  Directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  warmly 
thanking  him  for  his  kindness  to  oixr  teachers,  and  accompanied  by  a  pre- 
sent of  books. 

2h 


482    MURDER  OF  TEACHERS  ON  BAMPTON  ISLAND. 

was  feeling  anxious  about  the  teachers  there,  lest  they 
should  be  suffering  from  the  effects  of  the  climate ;  but 
on  no  other  ground  did  I  feel  any  anxiety.  Our  surprise 
therefore  may  be  imagined,  when  tidings  reached  us 
on  the  12th  of  March  that  the  whole  party  had  been 
murdered  I 

As  the  report  came  through  natives,  we  were  inclined 
to  cling  to  hope ;  but  all  ground  for  that  was  soon  removed 
by  my  meeting  with  parties  at  Warrior  Island — natives — 
who  had  been  to  the  spot,  and  found  that  it  was  true.  As 
the  whole  affair  is  still  involved  in  mystery,  no  good  end 
would  be  answered  by  indulging  in  conjectures  as  to  the 
cause  of  the  sad  catastrophe.  To  one  report,  however, 
which  I  have  heard,  I  may  give  an  miiiliatic  denial,  viz., 
that  the  teachers  were  left  on  the  island  without  supplies 
of  provisions,  or  the  means  of  purchasing  them  from  the 
natives,  and  that  when  they  (the  natives)  found  that 
they  would  have  to  supply  them,  they  determined  to  put 
them  out  of  the  way.  The  statement  is  entirely  false. 
The  teachers  had  an  ample  supply  of  provisions,  and  they 
had  a  large  amount  of  property,  far  more  than  they  should 
have  had  in  going  among  a  heathen  people ;  and  this, 
probably,  was  one  reason  why  they  were  murdered. 
They  were  exceedingly  desirous  of  having  all  they  had 
with  them,  and  had  taken  all  on  board  the  vessel,  con- 
trary to  the  wishes  of  Mr  Gill  and  myself;  and,  when 
we  got  to  the  island,  everything  looked  so  assuring,  that 
we  did  not  offer  any  further  opposition  to  its  being  all 
taken  on  shore. 

That  the  teachers  themselves  did  not  act  wisely  is,  I 
fear,  true.  The  report  was  that,  while  the  natives  showed 
a  disposition  to  be  generous  to  them,  they  were  niggardly 
on  their  side.  It  was  also  reported  that  there  was  a  party 
on  the  island,  who  have  relations  with  Darnley  Island, 
who  were  averse  to  their  being  murdered,  but  were  unable 


VISIT  TO  THE  STATIONS  IN  THE  STRAITS.  483 

to  save  them.  I  wished  very  much  to  have  visited  the 
island,  and  investigated  the  matter  before  leaving  Cape 
York,  Lut  was  never  in  circumstances  to  do  so. 

Soon  after  this  event,  I  determined  that,  should  no  more 
suitable  vessel  turn  up,  I  would  venture  to  Eedscar  Bay- 
in  the  "  VikiniT."  The  vessel — under  eight  tons  burden — 
was  decidedly  too  small  for  a  voyage  of  over  three  hundred 
miles ;  but,  rather  than  endure  longer  the  anxiety  I  felt 
on  account  of  the  teachers,  I  was  prepared  to  take  the  risk. 

While  the  thing  was  pending,  however,  there  appeared 
some  glimmerings  of  hope  that  a  larger  vessel  might 
shortly  be  obtained ;  so  I  determined  to  make  a  voyage  in 
the  Straits  first  in  the  small  vessel,  in  the  hope  that  at  the 
close  of  that,  something  would  turn  up  to  meet  the 
difficulty  with  regard  to  the  other.  So,  on  the  9th  of 
April,  I  embarked  on  board  the  little  craft,  and  visited  all 
the  stations  in  the  Straits,  and  also  Katau  and  Torotorani 
on  the  mainland.  The  voyage  occupied  nearly  a  month. 
"We  got  back  to  Cape  York  on  the  6th  of  May.  I  re- 
turned with  health  a  good  deal  affected,  but  my  mind  was 
much  relieved.  The  following  brief  extract  from  my 
journal  will  show  the  impression  made  upon  my  mind  by 
what  I  found  at  the  different  stations  : — "  I  have  returned 
from  the  visitation  of  the  stations  very  much  relieved. 
We  have  had  no  death  this  season  from  disease,  and  all  who 
have  been  ill  are  recovering.  I  have  got  the  stations 
pretty  satisfactorily  adjusted,  and,  on  the  whole,  the 
prospects  are  such  as  to  call  for  the  devoutest  gratitude 
to  God,  and  to  supply  encouragement  for  the  future." 

The  state  of  my  health  was  such  when  I  got  back 
from  this  visitation,  that  the  intended  voyage  to  Eedscar 
Bay  in  the  "  Viking "  could  not  be  carried  out ;  so  I  was 
obliged  to  wait  on,  in  hope  that  something  would  occur 
in  the  providence  of  God  to  meet  the  difficulty ;  and  some- 
thing did  occur,  and  that  in  a  very  remarkable  way.      I 


484  REMARKABLE  PROVIDENTIAL  INTERPOSITION. 

had  felt  shut  up  to  leave  the  matter  in  God's  hand,  and 
just  wait  and  hope  for  His  interposition ;  and  I  had  not 
long  to  wait.     He  did  interpose  in  a  marvellous  manner. 
Shortly  after  the  close  of  our  voyage   in  the   "  Loeha," 
in  November  and  December  of  the  former  year,  she  was 
taken  to  Australia,  and  sold  to  Mr  Orkney,  a  gentleman 
of  independent  means  in  Victoria.     Mr  Orkney  had  her 
fitted  up  as  a  gentleman's  yacht,  and  sailed  in  her  for  a 
cruise  among  certain   islands  of  Western  Polynesia.      In 
returning  from  his  cruise,  he  came  along  the  south-east 
coast  of  New   Guinea.      He  had   the    same   captain    in 
command  of  the  vessel  who  had  charge  of  her  when  we 
made  our  voyage  in  her — Captain  Websdale — and  by  him 
he  was  informed  of  the  teachers  being  at  Eedscar  Bay ; 
and  he,  being  a  generous,  benevolent  man,  and  a  friend  of 
missions,  determined  to  call  and  see   the   teachers,   and 
render   any   assistance    in   his    power.      Three    families 
remained  after  the  two  that  left  in  the  "  Basilisk "  had 
been  brought  away.     Since  their  departure,  another  of  the 
women  had  died  under  the  same  circumstances  as  one  of 
the  former  women — in  connection  with  childbirth — so  that 
three  men  and  one  woman  now  remained.     They  were  in 
a  poor  state  of  health,  and  their  supplies  were  getting  low  ; 
still  they  were  inclined  to  remain  at  their  post,  and  they 
wrote  a  letter  to  me  to  that  effect.     However,  Mr  Orkney 
being  satisfied  that  they  needed  a  change,  refused  in  his 
kindness  to  bring  the  letter,  and  insisted  on  their  coming 
themselves.      They — brave  and  faithful  men  ! — consented 
with  misgivings  as  to  whether  they  were  doing  right  in 
leaving.     No  one   else,   however,   had  any  such  feelings. 
The  relief  which  it  gave  me  to  see  them  at  Cape   York 
was  such  as  language  cannot  express.     They  arrived   on 
the   25th  of  May;   and,  having  got   them   alongside   of 
ourselves,  we  determined  not  to  let  them  go  again  from 
under  our  eye  till  their  health  was  fully  restored,  and  I 


DEATH  OF  A   TEACHER.  485 

liad  some  reliable  prospect  of  being  able  to  visit  them, 
wherever  they  might  be  stationed,  at  not  distant  intervals. 
Oh,  what  a  God-send  the  whole  thing  did  seem !  And 
the  manner  in  which  it  was  done  added  not  a  little  to  the 
satisfaction  we  felt.  I  need  hardly  add  that  ]\Ir  Orkney 
would  accept  no  pecuniary  recompense. 

Change  of  climate,  medicine,  and  regular  supplies  of 
suitable  food,  with  the  blessing  of  God,  soon  brought  all 
the  teachers  round ;  and  for  the  present  our  anxieties  with 
reference  to  them  were  at  an  end.  In  the  month  of  July 
we  lost  one  of  the  Loyalty  Islands  teachers  by  death. 
Wanegi,  one  of  those  who  came  with  us  in  the  "John 
Williams,"  died  on  Murray  Islands,  after  a  lingering  illness, 
the  nature  of  which  I  could  not  make  out.  He  was  an 
estimable  man,  and,  had  his  life  been  spared,  I  have  no 
doubt  he  would  have  been  a  useful  teacher.  It  pleased 
the  Master,  however,  to  call  him  away  before  his  work 
was  weU  begun.  His  death  was  the  second  that  had 
taken  place  among  the  Loyalty  Islands  teachers,  since 
the  commencement  of  the  mission  in  1871.  A  woman 
and  a  child  had  also  died,  making  four  deaths  in  all  out  of 
about  forty  individuals —  a  fact  which  surely  calls  for  much 
gratitude  to  God. 

In  the  month  of  August  of  this  year,  I  was  again  greatly 
relieved  by  having  a  vessel,  which  had  recently  arrived  from 
Brisbane,  belonging  to  the  Queensland  Government,  kindly 
placed  at  my  service  by  Mr  Jardine,  in  which  to  visit  the 
islands  in  the  Straits,  and  Katau  and  Torotoram  on  the 
mainland — the  "  Lizzie  Jardine,"  a  cutter,  about  twenty 
tons  burden,  very  comfortably  fitted  up,  and  well  suited 
for  cruising  among  the  islands  in  the  Straits  ;  but  too  small, 
according  to  Mr  Jardine's  opinion,  for  a  voyage  to  Eedscar 
Bay. 

We  sailed  from  Cape  York  on  the  22d  of  August,  and 


486  A  SCHOOL  COMMENCED  ON  DARNLEY ISLAND. 

visited  all  the  stations  in  tlie  Straits,  except  Murray 
Islands,  and  we  were  unable  to  get  to  Katau  on  account 
of  the  roughness  of  the  weather.  The  teacher  of  Mun-ay 
Islands  had  been  on  a  visit  to  Cape  York,  and  had  left 
for  his  home  very  shortly  before  we  sailed,  so  a  visit  to 
that  place  was  not  needed. 

The  most  interesting  incident  that  occurred  during  the 
voyage  was  a  thing  very  small  in  itself,  but  important  in 
its  connection  with  the  New  Guinea  mission,  as  the  first 
link  in  a  chain  that  will  extend  on  indefinitely  tiU  the 
whole  land  be  filled  with  hght.  We  spent  a  Sabbath  on 
Darnley  Island,  and  on  that  Sabbath,  the  24th  of  August 
1873,  the  first  attempt  to  get  a  scliool  under  weigh  in 
Torres  Straits  was  made.  With  the  assistance  of  the 
teachers  and  the  natives,  I  had  managed  to  prepare  a 
lesson-sheet,  which  Mr  Sunderland  had  got  printed  in 
Sydney,  and  on  the  day  I  have  named,  teaching  was  com- 
menced among  the  Darnley  Islanders.  The  bulk  of  the 
population  were  assembled,  and  were  greatly  amused  and 
interested. 

I  had  been  but  a  short  time  home  from  this  visitation, 
when  circumstances  arose  which  rendered  another  voyage 
necessary.  Difficulties  had  sprung  up  between  the  cMef 
of  Tauan  and  the  teachers.  They  fancied  that  their  lives 
were  in  danger,  and  fled  in  their  boat  during  the  night, 
and  came  on  to  Cape  York.  When  I  heard  their  tale,  I  was 
strongly  inclined  to  believe  that  their  fears  were  ground- 
less ;  stiU  I  determined  to  go  to  the  spot  at  once  if  a  vessel 
could  be  obtained.  Mr  Jardine  again  kindly  favoured  me. 
The  voyage  was  made  in  the  Government  cutter.  The 
teachers  returned  with  me  to  their  work ;  the  difficulties 
were  got  over,  and  things  were  left  in  a  satisfactory  state. 
The  teachers  from  Kedscar  Bay  had  now  regained  their 
health,  and  were  longing  to  be  again  at  work ;  and  I  was 
also  longing  for  an  opportunity  of  conveying  them  to  some 


VISIT  TO  PORT  MORESBY.  487 

place  where  they  miglit  enjoy  better  health  than  they 
had  done  at  Kedscar  Bay.  I  had  been  trying  to  make  an 
arrangement  with  masters  of  shelling-vessels,  plenty  of 
which  were  now  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  with  the  owner 
of  one  I  had  well-nigh  succeeded.  He  deceived  me,  how- 
ever, so  I  was  compelled  to  wait  on.  In  the  meanwhile, 
Mr  Thorngren  had  disposed  of  the  "Viking,"  and  had 
been  to  Sydney  and  purchased  the  "  Eetrieve  " — a  ketch 
of  about  twenty- five  tons  burden ;  and  with  him  an  arrange- 
ment was  made  now  to  visit  Port  Moresby — a  place  recently 
discovered  by  Captain  Moresby,  and  very  favourably  re- 
ported of  by  him. 

I  got  home  from  my  second  voyage  in  tlie  Government 
cutter  on  the  evening  of  the  14th  of  November,  and  on 
the  18th  of  the  same  month  we  sailed  in  the  "  Eetrieve  " 
with  four  of  our  teachers — Eau  and  Eneri,  who  had  lost 
their  wives  at  Manumanu,  and  Euatoka  and  Aneterea, 
with  their  wives.  We  could  not  well  take  more  in  our 
small  vessel,  so  Piri  and  his  wife  remained  at  Cape  York. 

The  voyage  was  one  of  the  most  interesting,  and  it  was 
not  the  least  important,  of  the  many  voyages  I  had  made. 
I  cannot  say  that  Port  Moresby  realised  the  expectations  I 
had  formed  of  it,  but  it  met  what  had  been  regarded  as  the 
most  formidable  obstacle  in  the  way  of  evangelising  New 
Guinea — viz.,  the  difficulty  of  finding  a  place  for  the  head- 
quarters of  the  mission  free  from  fever  and  ague,*  and 
it  was  upon  an  equality  with  Manumanu,  with  reference 
to  another  thing  that  had  been  regarded  as  a  serious 
obstacle — the  reported  ferocity  of  tli&  natives. 

When  these  two  difficulties  are  met,  smaller  inconve- 
niences should  not  be  much  accounted  of.  Some  inconve- 
niences— oftentimes  great  ones — are  to  be  met  with  every- 

*  Recent  accounts  seem  to  indicate  that  Port  Moresby  is  not  quite  free 
from  fever  and  ague,  but  it  is  comparatively  so,  and  in  a  country  like  New 
Guinea  that  is  no  small  matter. 


4S8         ADVANTAGES  AND  DISADVANTAGES. 

where  in  the  pathway  of  Christian  missions,  and  especially 
may  that  be  expected  in  commencing  a  great  mission  like 
that  of  New  Guinea ;  but,  where  there  is  a  healthy  climate 
and  a  peaceable  people,  ordinary  ability  and  perseverance, 
with  the  help  and  blessing  of  God,  will  overcome  all. 
Hence  I  rejoiced,  as  one  that  findeth  great  spoil,  when  an 
opening  was  found  at  Port  ]\Ioresby.  Want  of  large 
timber,  and  scarcity  of  food,  are  the  sjiecial  difficulties 
there  at  the  present  time ;  but  wood  can  be  obtained,  and 
is  obtained  by  the  natives,  from  Eedscar  Bay,  about  thirty 
miles  distant,  the  passage  to  which  is  close  to  the  shore 
inside  the  reef ;  and,  as  regards  food,  there  is  plenty  of  fish 
in  the  sea,  and  plenty  of  game  on  the  hills ;  and  there  is 
soil  that  may  be  cultivated ;  and  hogs  and  fowls  may  be 
reared ;  and  there  is  safe  anchorage  at  all  seasons ;  so 
that,  when  the  advantages  and  disadvantages  are  fairly 
balanced, we  may  perhaps  look  long  before  we  find  a  place 
better  suited,  on  the  whole,  than  Port  Moresby,  to  be  the 
headquarters  of  the  Malay  branch  of  the  Xew  Guinea 
mission. 

We  had  a  very  interesting  interview  with  the  people  of 
Manumanu  on  our  way  to  Port  Moresby.  We  informed 
them  why  we  were  leaving  them  for  the  present,  and  going 
in  search  of  some  other  place — viz.,  the  unhealthiness  of 
their  land.  We  gave  them  a  promise  that  they  should  not 
be  forgotten,  and  parted  very  good  friends.  At  Anuapata, 
in  Port  Moresby,  the  four  teachers  were  located,  under  cir- 
cumstances of  much  interest  and  promise ;  and,  satisfied 
and  thankful,  we  returned  to  Cape  York,  which  we  reached 
on  the  8th  of  December. 

In  the  month  of  March  1874,  I  made  another  voyage  in 
the  "  Pictrieve."  We  were  specially  favoured  with  winds 
and  weather,  and  all  our  stations  in  the  Straits,  and  also 
Port  Moresby,  were  visited  in  very  little  over  a  month. 
With  the  close  of  the  western  monsoons  we  ran  straiiiht  to 


SA  TISFA  CTOR  V  PROGRESS.  489 

Port  Moresby,  and  -witli  the  commencement  of  the  eastern, 
we  returned  to  the  west,  and  did  all  our  work  in  the  Straits. 
We  sailed  on  the  2d  of  ]\Iarch,  and  got  back  to  Cape  York 
on  the  3d  of  April.  The  voyage  was,  on  the  whole,  satis- 
factory. My  chief  anxiety  had  been  with  reference  to 
Port  Moresby ;  and,  when  I  found  all  well  there,  I  felt  a 
relief  and  a  satisfaction  such  as  had  not  often  been  exceeded 
in  my  experience.  The  trial  had  been  made  without  any 
loss  of  life ;  one  unhealthy  season  had  been  safely  passed, 
and  the  point  seemed  satisfactorily  settled — we  had  found 
a  place  on  New  Guinea  where  foreigners  could  live  with 
the  prospect  of  enjoying  a  fair  measure  of  health. 

The  teacher  Piri  and  his  wife  went  with  us  on  this 
occasion,  and  were  located,  under  circumstances  of  much 
interest  and  promise,  at  Boera — a  place  about  eighteen  or 
twenty  miles  to  the  west  of  Port  Moresby. 

The  places  of  greatest  promise  in  the  Straits,  at  this 
time,  were  Darnley  Island  and  IMurray  Islands.  All  the 
people  on  these  islands,  with  few  exceptions,  were  under 
instruction,  and  were  progressing  hopefully  in  general 
improvement.  At  Murray  Islands  I  found  the  teacher  and 
the  people  engaged  in  building — or  preparing  to  build,  for 
they  had  not  begun  to  erect  the  building — a  place  of  wor- 
ship which  was  expected  to  hold  the  whole  population.  It 
was  nearly  completed  at  the  time  I  left  Cape  York;  and  long 
ere  now,  I  suppose,  it  has  been  opened,  and  is  being  occupied 
as  the  first  building  worthy  of  the  name  of  a  church  in 
connection  with  the  New  Guinea  mission. 

The  next  thing  of  miportance,  in  the  history  of  our 
sojourn  at  Cape  York,  was  an  event  which  took  us  greatly 
by  surprise,  as  it  came  upon  us  altogether  unexpectedly. 
On  Wednesday  the  23d  of  July,  the  mail-steamer  arrived. 
She  did  not  get  to  anchor  till  after  sundown.  We  had 
heard  of  the  missionary  party  for  New  Guinea  having  left 
England  for  Sydney,  and  were  now  expecting  the  news  of 


490  THE  '' ELLENGOWAN"  AND  ''CHALLENGER" 

their  arrival  there.  Instead  of  news,  however,  Mr  MTarlane 
himself  appeared.  We  were  surprised,  and  of  course  de- 
lighted. There  was  not  much  sleeping  with  some  of  us 
at  Cape  York  that  night ;  and  the  intercourse  that  followed 
the  arrival  of  our  esteemed  brother  and  fellow-labourer, 
was  in  a  high  degree  pleasant  and  refreshing. 

From  this  time  events  crowded  upon  us  in  quick  succes- 
sion. A  little  more  than  a  month  after  Mr  MTarlane's 
arrival,  the  long  and  anxiously  looked-for  "  EUengowan " 
reached  her  destination.  The  "  EUengowan,"  as  the  reader 
will  probably  be  aware,  is  a  small  steamsliip — the  gift  of 
one  of  the  most  generous  friends  of  the  London  Missionary 
Society  and  of  the  New  Guinea  Mission — Miss  Baxter  of 
Dundee.  Miss  Baxter  gave  the  handsome  sum  of  £2000 
for  the  purchase  and  outfit  of  the  vessel,  and  also  furnished 
what  more  was  required  to  cover  the  expense  of  her  passage 
to  Cape  York. 

A  few  days  after  the  arrival  of  the  "  EUengowan "  we 
had  a  call  from  H.M.S.  "  Challenger,"  under  the  command 
of  the  brave  man  who  is  now  battling  with  the  ice  and 
storms  of  the  Arctic  regions. 

Captain  Nares  showed  us  great  kindness,  and  manifested 
a  very  warm  interest  in  our  mission ;  and,  among  his  other 
acts  of  kindness,  he  lent  us  very  important  aid  in  getting 
our  newly-arrived  ship  equipped  for  her  work  in  Torres 
Straits  and  on  the  coast  of  New  Guinea.  Of  course,  after 
her  long  voyage  from  England — which  was  a  great  under- 
taking for  so  small  a  vessel  dependent  chiefly  upon  steam — 
a  good  deal  of  work  was  required  before  she  was  in  a  fit 
state  again  to  go  to  sea.  By  the  assistance,  so  kindly 
furnished  by  Captain  Nares,  the  work  was  much  facilitated ; 
and,  on  the  22d  of  September,  she  was  ready  for  sea.  Mr 
M'Farlane  and  I  had  intended  to  have  made  the  round  of 
the  stations  together ;  but,  as  tliere  was  uncertainty  with 
reference  to  the  arrival  of  the  "John  Williams,"  it  was 


OTHER  VOYAGES  AND  ARRIVALS.  491 

thought  best  that  one  of  iis  should  remain  at  Cape  York. 
So  I  went  alone.  We  were  especially  desirous  to  get  to 
Port  Moresby  before  the  arrival  of  the  "  John  Williams," 
to  ascertain  whether  the  door  there  was  still  open,  and  the 
way  clear  for  a  missionary  to  settle.  That  object  was 
successfully  accomplished,  and  two  islands  of  the  Straits, 
Darnley  and  York,  were  visited ;  and  then  we  were 
obliged  to  cut  short  our  voyage,  as  we  had  not  brought 
a  sufficient  supply  of  fuel,  and  return  to  Cape  York  whicli 
was  reached  on  the  8th  of  October. 

On  the  15th  of  the  same  month,  the  vessel  sailed  with 
Mr  M'Farlane  on  board,  who  went  to  complete  the  work 
which  I  had  been  obliged  to  leave  unfinished.  News  had 
been  received  during  my  absence,  to  tlie  effect  tliat  the 
"  John  Williams  "  could  not  be  at  Cape  York,  till  consider- 
ably later  than  we  had  expected. 

A  few  days  after  Mr  MTarlane  left  on  his  voyage,  we 
were  surprised  by  another  unlooked-for  arrival.  Mr  and 
Mrs  Lawes,  and  all  the  mission  party  remaining  in  Sydney, 
were  to  have  come  on  to  Cape  York  in  the  "John 
Williams."  Circumstances  arose,  however,  which  rendered 
it  necessary  for  ]\Ir  and  Mrs  Lawes  to  come  in  the  mail- 
steamer,  and  on  the  20th  of  October  they  arrived. 

In  a  few  days  more  Mr  MTarlane  returned  from  his 
voyage.  He  was  much  pleased  with  what  he  had  seen, 
and  much  encouraged  with  the  appearance  of  things  in  the 
mission. 

And  now  another  arrival  was  at  hand,  which  "was 
awaited  by  us  all  with  deep  interest — the  "  John  Williams  " 
was  almost  due.  We  were  not  kept  waiting  long.  The 
vessel  had  an  extraordinarily  quick  run  from  the  Loyalty 
Islands,  at  which  she  called  on  her  w^ay  to  Cape  York, 
and  on  the  2d  of  November  she  anchored  within  a  few 
miles  of  Somerset.  Those  most  deeply  interested  hastened 
on  board,  anticipating  a  joyous  meeting  with  dear  ones, 


492      SETTLEMENT  OF  MR  AND  MRS  LAWES. 

for  whose  arrival  they  had  been  anxiously  waiting,  Alas  ! 
what  a  disappointment  awaited  one  of  our  mission  circle. 
An  event  had  taken  place,  during  tlie  voyage  from  Sydney, 
which  was  deeply  felt  by  all  of  us,  and  which  was  well- 
nigh  overwhelming  to  those  on  whom  the  blow  directly 
fell.  A  daughter  of  Mr  and  Mrs  MTarlane — a  x^eculiarly 
interesting  child,  about  six  years  of  age — had  died  on  the 
voyage,  and  been  buried  at  sea.  The  feelings  of  the  parents, 
of  course,  were  such  as  only  parents  who  have  been 
bereaved  can  understand. 

Ten  days  longer  and  owr  connection  with  Cape  York 
had  terminated.  On  the  12  th  of  November  we  bade 
adieu  to  dear  friends  there,  and  took  our  departure  in  the 
"John  Williams."  She  was  bound  for  Port  Moresby. 
Our  errand  to  that  place  was  to  convey  thither  Mr  and 
Mrs  Lawes,  who  were  proceeding  to  it  as  their  future 
sphere  of  labour.  It  was  deemed  desu^able  that  the 
"  Ellengowan "  should  accompany  us,  that  she  might 
render  any  assistance  that  might  be  required  by  the  "John 
Williams  "  in  carrying  out  her  difficult  undertaking.  She 
is  too  large  a  vessel  to  be  among  the  islands  of  Torres 
Straits  and  on  the  New  Guinea  coast,  without  steam- 
power — especially  during  the  season  of  the  year  when 
calms  and  variable  winds  prevail.  Our  passage  was 
tedious,  and  it  was  not  accomplished  without  danger. 
However,  we  got  to  our  destination  aU  right  at  length. 
We  anchored  in  Port  Moresby,  abreast  of  Anuapata,  on 
the  21st  of  November. 

The  transactions  that  occupied  us  there  have  been 
already  narrated,  and  have  but  recently  been  laid  before 
the  public ;  so  they  need  not  be  repeated  here.  In  little 
more  than  a  week  from  the  time  of  our  arrival,  Mr 
Lawes'  house  was  so  nearly  finished  as  to  be  in  a  habitable 
state.  On  the  morning  of  Tuesday,  December  1st,  he  and 
Mrs  Lawes  and  family  left   the  "John  Wilhams,"  and 


VOYAGE  TO  AND  ARRIVAL  IN  SYDNEY        493 

took  up  their  abode  on  tlie  shores  of  New  Guinea ;  and 
shortly  after  their  departure,  we  got  under  weigli  and 
continued  our  voyage  towards  Australia.  We  had  a  long 
and  stormy  and  dangerous  voyage  through  the  imperfectly 
surveyed  Coral  Sea.  By  the  good  hand  of  God  upon  us, 
however,  we  were  enabled  to  reach  in  safety  our  destina- 
tion. On  the  7th  of  January  1875  we  anchored  in  Sydney 
harbour ;  and,  with  our  arrival  there,  terminated,  at  least 
for  the  time  being,  our  direct  connection  with  the  mission 
field. 


(494) 


CHAPTEE  LIV. 

NEW  GUINEA   AS  A  FIELD  OF   MISSIONARY  ENTERPRISE — NOTICE  OF  A  GERMAN 
MISSION   ON   AN   ISLAND  NEAR   NEW  GUINEA—GENERAL   DESCRIPTION  OF 

NEW  GUINEA DISCOVERY EAKLY  VISITORS — REMARKS  ON  "WANDERINGS 

IN  THE  INTERIOR  OP  NEW  GUINEA  " THE  INHABITANTS,  MANNERS,  CUS- 
TOMS, ETC. — EXTRACTS  FROM  CAPTAIN  MORESBY'S  PAPERS — RELIGIOUS 
BELIEF  AMONG  THE  NATIVE  TRIBES  OF  NEW  GUINEA,  AND  THE  ABORI- 
GINES OF  AUSTRALIA — CONCLUDING  REMARKS — ENCOURAGEMENT — CER- 
TAINTY OF  FINAL  TRIUMPH — CLOSE  OF  THE  WORK. 

This  work  would  be  incomplete  without  some  more  par- 
ticular information  than  has  yet  been  given  respecting 
the  great  island,  the  mission  to  which  occupies  the  closing 
chapters.  It  seems  a  surprising  thing  that  no  effort 
should  have  been  made,  by  any  body  of  Christians,  to 
introduce  the  gospel  to  this  great  country  till  the  year 
1871  of  the  Christian  era;  yet,  so  far  as  I  have  been  able 
to  learn,  such  is  the  fact.  And  this  is  the  more  surprising 
when  we  remember  that  New  Guinea  is  separated  from 
the  great  continent  of  Australia  only  by  a  narrow 
channel,  little  more  than  eighty  miles  in  breadth 

Mr  Wallace,  in  his  interesting  work,  "  The  Malay 
Archipelago,"  informs  us  of  the  existence  of  a  mission 
at  the  time  he  was  on  or  near  New  Guinea,  conducted 
by  German  missionaries  on  an  island  near  the  north- 
west coast ;  and  in  an  article  in  the  "  Leisure  Hour  "  for 
August  1875,  p.  533,  the  editor  introduces  some  very 
interestmg  information  respecting  that  part  of  New 
Guinea  and  islands  in  the  neighbourhood,  as  having  been 


DESCRIPTION  OF  NEW  GUINEA.  495 

furnished  Ijy  the  same  missionaries,  no  doubt,  as  those 
to  wlioni  Mr  Wallace  refers,  as  follows  : — 

"  Tlie  Eev.  D.  I.  Mulheiseu  Arnold,  lately  Her  Majesty's 
Chaplain  at  Batavia,  forwards  to  us  a  translation  of  a 
paper  drawn  up  by  two  German  missionaries,  now  both 
dead,  who  spent  some  years  on  an  island  adjacent  to  New 
Guinea." 

How  interesting  it  would  be  to  have  fuller  information 
respecting  these  good  men !  From  the  article  to  which 
I  have  referred  in  the  "  Leisure  Hour,"  it  is  evident  that 
they  had  collected  a  considerable  amount  of  very  interest- 
ing information  respecting  the  Papuan  tribes  inhabiting 
that  part  of  the  coast  of  New  Guinea,  and  the  islands 
adjacent,  on  which  was  the  headquarters  of  their  mission, 
I  have  not  Mr  Wallace's  work  to  which  to  refer,  but,  so 
far  as  I  remember,  he  speaks  of  the  mission  as  having 
been  a  failure ;  and  the  impression  I  received  from  his 
account  was,  that  it  had  not  been  adequately  sustained, 
and  that  the  missionaries  w^ere  left  to  a  great  extent 
to  shift  for  themselves,  and  so  were  obliged  to  combine 
trading  with  mission- work,  and  the  usual — perhaps  I  may 
say  the  natural  result  followed — failure  as  regards  the 
higher  objects  of  their  mission. 

For  the  account  I  am  about  to  give  of  the  extent,  situa- 
tion, productions,  &c.,  of  New  Guinea,  I  am  largely 
indebted  to  a  paper  kindly  placed  at  my  service  by 
Lieutenant  Chester,  a  gentleman  who  w^as  residing  at  Cape 
York  w^hen  our  first  voyage  was  made : — 

"  New  Guinea,*  so  called  by  the  early  Dutch  navigators 

*  With  reference  to  the  name  Papua,  by  which  the  natives  of  New  Guinea 
are  desiyuated,  the  German  missionaries  write  as  follows  : — "The  Malay 
woi'd,2x/^;cca/i— woolly,  crispy-haired — is  derived  by  some  from  the  Manilla 
root,  where  it  signifies  dark-brown.  In  the  Papuan  tongue  itself,  the 
word  signifies  '  different  sorts  of  trifling  things,'  which  evidently  will  help 
us  very  little.  But  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  term  Papua  is  applied  alike 
to  the  people  on  the  coast  and  to  the  natives  iu  the  interior." 


496  DESCRIPTION  OF  NEW  GUINEA. 

from  a  fancied  resemblance  of  its  inhabitants  to  those  of 
the  coast  of  Guinea  in  Africa,  is,  with  the  exception 
of  Australia,  the  largest  island  on  our  globe.  (This  is 
at  variance  with  the  statements  of  some  geographers; 
these  affirm  that  Borneo  has  a  larger  arm  than  New 
Guinea.)  It  lies  in  the  Australian  Archipelago,  and  is 
about  1400  miles  in  extreme  length,  or  nearly  double  that 
of  Borneo.  It  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  Torres  Straits 
(and  the  Coral  Sea) ;  west  by  the  Molucas  Sea ;  north  and 
north-east  by  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  Western  Peninsula, 
which  is  nearly  insulated  by  Geelvinck  Bay,  entering  from 
the  north,  and  the  Gulf  of  ]\i'Clure  from  the  west,  consists 
of  masses  of  elevated  land,  penetrated  by  deep  salt-water 
inlets. 

"The  most  striking  geographical  feature  of  the  great 
Eastern  Peninsula  is  a  backbone  of  lofty  mountains, 
apparently  extending  throughout  its  length,  with  peaks  far 
surpassing  those  of  Australia,  the  loftiest  being  more  than 
1.3,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea 

"  The  greatest  breadth  of  the  island  is  over  300  miles, 
in  longitude  141°  east,  and  its  least  breadth  20  mUes  at 
the  head  of  Geelvinck  Bay,  and  the  Gulf  of  :M'Clure. 

"  New  Guinea  was  discovered  in  1511  by  the  Portuguese 
commanders  De  Abreu  and  Serram,  and  first  visited  in 
1615.  During  the  17th  and  18th  centuries,  the  northern 
coasts  were  frequently  visited  by  Dutch  and  English 
navigators;  and,  in  1774,  an  English  officer,  Captain 
Forrest,  in  the  service  of  the  East  India  Company,  who 
was  sent  to  search  for  spice-producing  districts,  resided  for 
some  months  at  Port  Davy  on  the  north-east  coast,  and 
maintained  constant  friendly  intercourse  with  the  natives. 
Captain  Cook,  who  visited  the  south-west  coast  in  the 
'Endeavour'  in  1770,  was  the  sole  authority  respecting 
the  natives  till  1828.  New  Guinea  extends  from  10° 
south  latitude  to  within  thirty  miles  of  the  equator." 


"  WANDERINGS  IN  NEW  GUINEAS'  497 

My  own  acquaintance  with  New  Guinea  extends  from 
the  ishmd  of  Tauan  (Cornwallis)  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Great  Bight,  or  Gulf  of  Papua,  about  Lit.  9°  30'  and  long, 
142°  40',  to  Port  Moresby,  aloid  lat.  10°  and  long.  148°.  1 
have  visited  all  the  principal  islands  in  Torres  Straits, 
most  of  them  several  times,  and  have  mingled  familiarly 
with  the  natives  ;  and,  as  the  reader  has  seen,  I  have  also 
made  several  visits  to  different  parts  of  the  coast  of  the 
mainland.  Hence  I  am  in  a  favourable  position  for  form- 
ing an  opinion  as  to  the  reliableness  or  otherwise  of 
a  book  that  has  lately  appeared,  entitled  "Wanderings 
in  the  Interior  of  New  Guinea ; "  and  I  am  constrained  to 
state,  that,  unless  some  other  part  of  New  Guinea  is 
referred  to  than  that  indicated  by  the  names  and  positions 
given,  the  book  is  entirely  unreliable,  as  is  clearly  shown 
by  the  criticisms  of  Captain  Moresby  in  the  "  Athen?eum," 
and  those  of  the  Eev.  W.  W.  Gill  in  the  "  Leisure  Hour."  * 
It  is  surely  an  utterly  incredible  thing  that  a  person 
resident  at  Cape  York,  and  making  frequent  voyages  in 
Torres  Straits,  and  in  constant  communication  with 
teachers  and  others  living  permanently  on  islands  which 
cover  all  the  ground  where  Captain  Lawson  states  that  he 
made  his  preparations  for  his  journey  into  the  interior,  and 
from  which  he  started  upon  his  "  wanderings,"  should 
never  have  heard  of  him,  or  of  the  Sydney  trading  vessel 
the  "  Nautilus,"  or  of  the  island  of  Houtree,  and  the  mar- 
vellous discoveries  made  by  the  captain,  till  they  were 
read  of  in  his  book  in  London!  I  am  perfectly  certain 
there  is  no  island  named  Houtree  in  Torres  Straits.  The 
curious  fact,  that  the  position  given  by  Captain  Lawson 
places  the  village  in  the  sea,  might  be  simply  a  mistake ; 
but  the  fact  that  Houtree  was  never  heard  of  by  persons 
familiarly  acquainted  with  e^'ery  part  of  Torres  Straits,  long 

*  See  the  "  Leisure  Hour  "  for  August  1875,  pp.  .532,  5.33. 

2    I 


498  THE  NATIVES  OF  NEW  GUINEA. 

before  Captain  Lawson's  alleged  connection  with  it,  seems 
conclusive  proof  that  no  sucli  place  exists  there.  Had 
Captain  Lawson  placed  his  starting-point  away  in  the  far 
west,  about  the  Gulf  of  M'Clure  or  Geelvinck  Bay,  his 
statements  might  have  obtained  a  measure  of  credence, 
though  even  in  that  case  some  of  them,  such  as  the  story 
about  the  discovery,  height,  &c.,  of  Mount  Hercules, 
would  have  made  very  large  demands  upon  the  faith  of  his 
readers.  As  it  ij,  however,  they  have  no  chance  of  being 
believed  by  any  one  acquainted  with  Torres  Straits  and 
the  adjacent  coast  of  the  mainland  of  New  Guinea.  I 
have  no  knowledge  of  Captain  Lawson,  and  have  no  other 
object  in  referring  to  his  book  than  to  serve  the  interests 
of  truth. 

The  following  extract  from  the  manuscript  from  which 
we  have  already  largely  quoted  gives  valuable  informa- 
tion, and,  with  the  exception  of  the  character  ascribed 
to  the  natives,  agrees  substantially  with  my  own  obser- 
vations : — 

"  Our  information  respecting  the  people  of  the  Eastern 
Peninsula  is  confined  to  the  tribes  dwelling  on  the  coast. 
These  appear  to  be  divided  into  two  varieties,  one 
resembling  the  Torres  Straits  islanders  in  appearance,  who 
inhabit  the  western  shore  of  the  Great  Bight  and  the 
banks  of  the  large  rivers;  the  other  occup^dng  the 
remainder  of  the  south-east  coast  and  the  Louisade  Archi- 
pelago, who  are  split  up  into  numerous  small  tribes 
speaking  different  languages  (dialects?),  but  are  more 
advanced  in  civilisation.  The  natives  inhabiting  the 
country  extending  from  the  eastern  edge  of  the  Warrior 
Eeef  to  the  Aird  Kiver  are  described  by  W.  Jukes,  the 
naturalist  attached  to  the  'Fly,'  as  generally  hostile  and 
treacherous.  They  made  several  attempts  to  cut  off  the 
'  Fly's '  boats,  and  refused  to  hold  any  intercourse  with 
Europeans;  but  they  do  not  appear  to  have  been  very 


THEIR  CHARACTER.  499 

formidable,  as  the  small  revemie-cutter  'Prince  George,' 
accompanied  by  one  of  the  '  Fly's '  boats,  went  about 
twenty  miles  up  the  Aird  Eiver,  through  a  densely  popu- 
lated country,  in  spite  of  all  opposition,  without  a  single 
casualty." 

So  far  as  my  experience  goes,  the  character  given  of  the 
natives  in  the  above  extract,  and  by  early  visitors  generally, 
is  not  deserved.  That  the  dark  races  on  some  of  the  islands 
of  Torres  Straits  have  been  guilty  of  great  barbarities,  is 
no  doubt  true ;  but  possibly,  if  a  different  mode  of  treat- 
ment had  been  adopted  by  visitors,  the  result  might  have 
been  very  different.  I  have  gone  freely  amongst  them — not 
merely  where  others  had  been  before,  but  where  the  foot 
of  a  wliite  man  had  never  trod — entirely  unarmed,  and  I 
have  never  been  molested  by  either  race.  I  have  found 
in  all  my  experience  that  the  rule  that  holds  in  dealing 
with  men,  whether  civilised  or  savage,  is  that  what  we 
ARE  TO  OTHERS,  THEY  ARE  TO  US.  Our  conduct  and  bear- 
ing towards  them  determine  theirs  towards  us.  This  I 
believe  to  be  the  general  rule,  which  the  exceptions,  if 
fairly  considered,  will  but  go  to  confirm.  I  have 
endeavoured  to  act  upon  it  for  over  forty  years,  and  the 
exceptions  I  have  met  with  have  been  more  numerous 
among  civilised  than  savage  men. 

I  will  not  add  much  to  what  has  already  been  said 
relative  to  the  manners,  customs,  &c.,  of  the  people  of  New 
Guinea.  Now  that  missionaries  are  settled  amongst  them, 
and  scientific  expeditions  are  being  fitted  out  for  the 
express  purpose  of  exploring  and  examining  the  country, 
we  shall  soon  have  more  reliable  information  than  I  am 
in  a  position  to  give. 

With  reference  to  their  views  and  practice  as  regards 
religion  we  know  little  as  yet.  That  they  have  some 
religious  belief,  and  some  notions  of  a  future  life,  I  liave 
no  doubt ;  and  that  they  believe  in  the  existence  of  beings 


500  RELIGIOUS  BELIEF. 

superhuman  at  least,  I  know ;  and  they  have  also  objects 
which  they  regard  as,  in  some  degree,  sacred.  They  wear 
charms,  and  some  sort  of  religious  service  or  observance 
takes  place  in  connection  with  planting,  and  I  have  no 
doubt  also  on  other  occasions.  Indeed  I  have  never  found 
in  all  my  wanderings  among  savage  tribes  any  who  had 
not  some  idea  of  a  future  life,  and  of  beings  superior  to 
themselves,  to  whom  they  owed  some  sort  of  homage,  and 
whom  they  feared,  and  sought  in  some  way  to  propitiate. 
If  the  entire  absence  of  all  religious  belief  is  to  be  found 
anywhere  among  the  human  family,  I  know  no  place 
so  likely  as  among  the  aborigines  of  Australia.  There 
man  has  sunk  about  as  low  as  he  can  sink,  yet  among  some 
of  the  tribes  there  is  a  distinct  belief  in  a  future  life,  and 
a  supreme  being.  The  following  information,  kindly 
furnished  by  a  warm  friend  to  the  aboriginal  races,  the 
Eev.  "WiUiam  Eidley  of  Sydney,  N.S.W.,  is  deeply  in- 
teresting : — 

"The  Kamilaroi  and  Wiradhuri  tribes,  who  formerly 
occupied  a  large  territory  on  the  Darling  and  its  tribu- 
taries, have  a  traditional  faith  in  '  Baiame,'  or  '  Baiamai,' 
literally  '  the  Maker,'  from  haia,  to  make  or  build.  They 
say  that  Baiame  made  everything.  Some  say  that  he 
once  lived  as  a  man  upon  earth ;  and  near  the  Narran 
Eiver  is  a  hole  in  a  rock,  somewhat  in  the  shape  of  a 
man,  where  they  say  Baiame  used  to  rest.  He  makes 
the  grass  to  grow,  and  provides  all  creatures  with  food. 
Baiame  gave  them  a  sacred  wand,  which  they  exliibited 
at  their  '  bora/  the  initiatory  rite  of  admission  to  man- 
hood, and  the  sight  of  this  wand  is  essential  to  make 
a  man.  Baiame  once  showed  the  black-fellows  how  to 
get  rid  of  'MuUion,'  a  demon  in  the  form  of  an  eagle, 
who  lived  in  a  tree  and  devoured  many  people.  Baiame 
is  also  the  supreme  judge  who  awards  to  men  their  future 
lot.     When  people  die,  the  good  ascend  to  Baiame,  and 


ABORIGINES  OF  AUSTRALIA.  501 

he  appoints  them  a  pLace  on  the  great  loarramhool  (water- 
course, with  groves,  fruits,  and  animals,  for  the  enjoyment 
of  tlie  blessed),  in  the  sky — the  Milky  Way;  the  bad 
perish  at  death. 

"  The  Eev.  James  Gunther,  of  Mudgee,  who  was  many 
years  engaged  in  the  instruction  of  the  Wiradhuri  tribes, 
has  recorded  the  fact  that  these  people  ascribe  to  Baiame 
'  three  of  the  attributes  of  the  God  of  the  Bible ' — supreme 
power,  immortality,  and  goodness.  There  are  among  them 
men  who  make  light  of  these  traditions ;  but  even  when 
first  S2:>oken  with  by  Christian  instructors,  some  were 
evidently  devout  in  their  thoughts  of  Baiame  and  their 
hopes  of  a  future  life ;  and  as  to  a  future  state,  they 
generally  have  a  lively  expectation.  A  squatter,  M.  De 
Becker,  who  lived  many  years  at  a  remote  station,  where 
the  blacks  were  in  frequent  communication  with  him,  told 
me  he  had  seen  many  of  them  die  with  a  cheerful  anticipa- 
tion of  being  soon  in  a  '  better  country.'  " 

It  is  very  touching,  and,  in  some  aspects  of  it,  very 
surprising  to  see  these  poor  wanderers  of  the  Australian 
bush  thus  "  feeling  after  God,"  and  looking  forward  to  a 
state  of  rest  and  happiness ;  and  that  they  should  attribute 
such  attributes  to  the  being  they  worship  is  truly  wonder- 
ful. In  this  respect  they  seem  in  advance  of  the  most 
civilised  nations  of  antiquity.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
inlands  of  Torres  Straits  are  closely  connected  with  the 
aboriginal  tribes  of  the  adjacent  coast  of  Australia,  and 
I  do  not  doubt  that,  when  we  get  to  know  more  of  them, 
we  shall  find  that  they  have  all  their  religious  beliefs  more 
or  less  distinct. 

But  I  must  stop,  and  draw  my  long  tale  to  a  close.  I 
liave  endeavoured  to  compress,  and  have  omitted  much 
that  might  have  been  interesting,  still  the  tale  is  a  long 
one.  When  it  is  borne  in  mind,  however,  that  the  record 
embraces  forty   years  of  a  life  not  uneventful,   it  will 


502  CONCLUDING  REMARKS. 

perhaps  "be  felt  tJiat  the  narrative  has  not  been  unduly 
drawn  out. 

To  the  writer  it  has  been  a  pleasant,  and  he  trusts  not 
an  unprofitable  work,  to  review  the  way  by  which  he  has 
been  led,  and  the  leading  events  of  his  life,  in  connection 
with  the  great  cause  with  which  it  has  been  identified 
from  the  early  spring-time  of  youth  to  the  far  advanced 
autumn  which  he  has  now  reached.  In  closing  this  record 
he  feels  as  if  he  were  bidding  adieu  to  the  cause  which 
he  so  mucli  loves.  God  helping  him,  howcA^er,  he  will  not 
cease  to  live  for  and  serve  that  cause  in  some  way,  so  long 
as  any  ability  to  do  so  shall  be  continued. 

We  need  not  trouble  the  reader  with  any  lengthened 
resume  of  the  contents  of  this  volume.  We  cannot  forbear, 
however,  adding  a  few  words  with  special  reference  to  the 
cncouragcm.ent\\\i\c\\  the  facts  it  records  supply  to  the  friends 
of  missions.  There  are  still  amongst  iis  persons  who,  from 
time  to  time,  raise  a  wail,  a  warning,  or  a  caution,  or  what- 
ever it  may  be  meant  to  be,  to  the  effect  that  missions  are, 
after  all,  a  failure,  or  something  very  near  it.  It  is  hard 
to  tejl  what  would  satisfy  such  persons ;  but  surely  the 
facts  recorded  in  these  pages  meet  all  that  can  reasonably 
be  demanded  in  proof  that  a  fair  measure  of  success  has 
been  achieved  in  that  part  of  the  world  to  which  this 
narrative  specially  refers.  It  is  surely  not  a  thing  to  be 
lightly  accounted  of,  that  all  the  principal  islands  and 
groups  of  the  great  Pacific  both  north  and  south  of  the 
equator,  from  the  Marquesas  on  the  east  to  the  Loyalty 
Islands  on  the  west,  and  from  New  Zealand  on  the  south 
to  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  Micronesia  on  the  north,  are 
either  now  occupied  by  different  sections  of  the  Protestant 
Church,  or  the  responsibility  of  their  occupation  has  been 
accepted;  and  that,  within  a  reasonable  time,  they  may 
all  be  expected  to  be  under  full  culture,  and  that  already 


RESUL TS  ALREAD  V  REALISED.  503 

the  principal  groups  are  really  Christian  countries — fast 
becoming  independent  of  foreign  aid.  Such  is  the 
Tahitian  group,  the  Hervey  Islands,  Samoa,  Tonga,  Fiji, 
the  Loyalty  Islands,  and  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Each  of 
these,  with  one  exception,  has  its  complete  version  of  the 
sacred  Scriptures,  with  its  literature  in  the  vernacular 
more  or  less  extensive ;  its  churches  and  native  pastors ; 
its  schools  and  institutions  for  training  a  native  ministry  ; 
and  each  is,  at  least  to  a  large  extent,  so7ne  entirely,  sus- 
taining its  own  native  pastors,  and  in  addition  lending 
effective  aid  towards  sending  the  gospel  to  lands  still 
heathen.  Facts  like  these  will  surely  have  great  weight 
with  all  reasonaljle  men  who  duly  consider  them.  True, 
we  all  long  for  more  rapid  progress,  and  we  look  forward 
to  a  time,  not  very  distant  we  trust,  when  we  shall  see 
vastly  greater  things  than  have  yet  been  witnessed.  *But, 
if  we  compare  what  has  been  accomplished  within  the 
last  half  century  with  any  former  period  since  the  times 
of  the  apostles,  we  have  surely  no  cause  for  discouragement. 
And  referring  again  more  particularly  to  the  contents  of 
the  volume,  we  liave  seen  in  these  what  has  been  accom- 
plished during  the  space  which  it  embraces  by  the  instru- 
mentality of  a  single  Society.  We  have  seen  how  the 
great  cause  has  made  steady  advances,  and  that  often 
under  circumstances  in  themselves  calculated  powerfully 
to  impede  its  progress.  The  ranks  of  the  labourers  have 
again  and  again  been  invaded  and  thinned  by  disease  and 
death,  and,  in  some  cases,  by  the  hand  of  violence.  Some 
who  seemed  to  be  pillars  indispensable  to  the  stability  of 
the  cause,  have  been  removed.  Calamities  great  and  sore 
have  from  time  to  time  come  upon  us.  Wars  and  ship- 
wrecks, and  false  teachers,  and  other  evils,  have  greatly 
tried  us,  and  sorely  hindered  us  in  our  work ;  yet.  amid  all, 
the  cause  has  steadily  progressed. 


504  ULTIMATE  VICTORY  SURE. 

And,  let  it  be  borne  in  mind,  that  advances  of  a  similar 
character  have  been  going  on  in  other  parts  of  the  world, 
in  connection  with  the  Society  with  which  the  Arater  is 
identified,  and  many  other  Societies  and  agencies.  The 
rate  of  progress  may  be  very  different  in  different  fields, 
but  still,  progi-ess,  more  or  less,  is  I  suppose  the  rule 
everywhere.  And  what  a  prodigious  extent  of  territory  do 
missions  now  embrace !  The  missionary  movement  is  no 
longer  an  isolated  and  partial  thing,  like  inland  seas  or 
lakes,  covering  only  a  few  small  spots  in  the  great  fields 
of  heathendom — but  rather,  is  it  becoming  like  the  all- 
embracing  ocean.  Its  line  is  gone  out  over  all  the  earth, 
and  its  words  to  the  end  of  the  world.  There  remains 
now  no  very  great  land  in  total  darkness.  Great  regions, 
there  are,  no  doubt,  that  have  been  but  slightly  touched ; 
but  •the  movement  is  progressing  unceasingly,  and  it  is 
closing  in  more  and  more.  The  occupied  ground  is  extend- 
ing and  still  extending,  and  the  unoccupied  is  becoming 
more  and  more  circumscribed,  and  so  it  shall  continue  to 
be,  for  so  hath  God  willed.  Are  not  the  heathen  given 
to  the  Great  Eedeemer  for  His  inheritance,  and  the 
uttermost  parts  of  the  earth  for  His  possession  ?  Yes, 
verily ;  the  mighty  movement  has  been  put  in  motion  by 
the  arm  of  Omnipotence,  and  the  same  arm  sustains  its 
every  moment,  and  will  continue  to  sustain  it,  till  the  end 
be  gained.  No  j)ower  on  earth  or  in  hell  can  stay  or  even 
impede  its  progress.  Onward  and  still  onward  the  mighty 
tide  will  roll,  sweeping  before  it  every  obstruction, 
obliterating  the  sad  effects  of  the  curse,  and  realising  the 
scenes  of  glory  and  beauty  which  the  pen  of  inspii'ation 
has  recorded,  and  the  mouth  of  Him  who  cannot  lie  hath 
spoken :  "  But  as  truly  as  I  live,  saith  the  Lord  God, 
all  the  earth  shall  be  fiUed  with  the  glory  of  the  Lord." 
"  For  the  earth  shall  be  full  of  the  knowledge  of  the  Lord 


THE  GLORIOUS  CONSUMMATION.  505 

as  tlie  waters  cover  the  sea."  Glorious  consummation ! 
Soon  may  the  blessed  goal  be  reached,  and  a  jubilee  be 
celebrated,  not  by  a  single  nation  of  the  earth,  but  by  a 
ransomed  and  happy  loorld,  in  unison  ^\■ith  the  countless 
hosts  above.     Amen,  so  let  it  be ! 

"  To  Father,  Son,  and  Holy  Gliost, 
The  God  whom  we  adore. 
Be  glory  as  it  was,  and  is. 
And  shall  be  evermore." 


INDEX. 


"  Alstkk,"  the  wreck  of,  373. 
Aneiteum,  185,  254,  21)4,  oGO,  435. 
Anuapata,  488,  492. 
Apia,  desciiptiou  of,  302. 
Apolinia,   islaud   of,  description   of, 

&c.,  284. 
Arnold,  Kev.  D.  J.  M.,  495. 
Arundel,  Rev.  John,  1. 
Australia,  aborigines  of,  500. 
Awakening,  commencement  of,  122. 

Baker,  Rev.  "NV.,  330. 
Banipton  Island,  475,  481,  482. 
Banana,  stoi-y  of  the  Chinese,  270. 
]3arfF,  Rev.  C,  14,  54,  360. 
Biirnden,  Rev.  G.,  17,  18,  100. 
"Basilisk,"  H.M.S.,  478,  4S0. 
Baxter,  Miss,  490. 
Betliune,  Cnptain,  73. 
Bible,  the  Samoan,  308,  338,  425,  420. 
Bingham,  Rev.  H.,  392,  412. 
Bird,  Rev.  P.  G.,  356,  371. 
Bocra,  489. 

"  Brisk,"  H.M.S.,  39(3. 
Buchanan,  Mr,  135,  139. 
Bullen,  Ruv.  T.,  186,  210,  221,  247, 
250. 

"  Camdkn,"  missionary  brig,  93, 148, 
151,  207. 


Cape  Horn,  1-5. 
"Challenger,"  H.M.S.,  490. 
Chalmers,  Rev.  J.,  425. 
Chapel,  English,  at  Apia,  311. 
Cliester,  Lieutenant,  495. 
Children,  parting  with,  238,  239. 
"  Conway,"  H.M.S.,  73. 
Copeland,  Rev.  J.,  435. 
Creagh,  Rev.  S.  ^l.,  304,  30!3,  400,  &c. 

"Daphxe,"H.M.S.,  233. 

Darnley  Island,  448,  457,  468,  480. 

Davies,  Rev.  S.  H.,  423,  425. 

"  Dayspring,"    mission     ship,     301, 

395,  402. 
De  Bangle,  IS,  105. 
"  Dido,"  H. M.S.,  315. 
Drummond,  Rev.  G.,  182.  326,  345. 
"Dunnottar  Castle,"  1,  25. 

EiMEO,  island  of,  13. 
"  Ellengowan,"  490,  492. 
English  school  at  Apia,  321,  &c. 

Fangaloa  Bay,  346. 

Fly  River,  475. 

Fotuna,  185,  230,  295. 

Funafuti,  island   of,   384,  400,   413, 

421. 
Friday  meeting,  63. 


5o8 


INDEX. 


Gee,  Rev.  H.,  345,  364. 
German  missionaries,  495. 
Gibbons,  H.,  173,  176. 
Gill,  Rev.  W.,  239,  304. 
Gill,  Rev.  G.,  331. 
Gill,  Rev.  W.  W.,  463,  465,  &c. 
Gordon,  Rev.  G.  A.,  326,  360. 
Gunther,  Rev.  James,  501. 

Harbutt,  Rev.  W.,  145,  326. 
Hardie,  Rev.  C,  264,  305,  306. 
Hawaiian  missionaries,  10. 
"Hazard,"  H.M.S.,  223. 
Heath,  Rev.  T.,  135,  148,  207,  228, 

&c. 
Heath,  Mrs,  death  and  cliaracter  of, 

97. 
Heathenism  extinct  in  Pangopango. 

163. 
"  Hope,"  wreck  of,  178. 
House-building,  324. 
Howe,  Rev.  W.,  327,  328. 
Huahine,  14. 

"  Independence,"  U.S.  frigate,  316. 

Infanticide,  385,  468. 

luglis,  Rev.  J.,  294,  340,  435. 

"John      "Williams,"      missionary 

barque,  227,  &c. 
"John  "Williams,"  the  second,  424. 
"  John  "Williams,"  the  third,  434,  &c. 
Jones,  Rev.  J.,  304,  306,  &c. 
Jubilee   of  the   London    Missionary 

Society,  234-237. 
"Juno,"  H.M.S.,  315. 

Labour  vessels,  405. 

Lagoon  Islands,  383,  &c. 

La  Perouse,  105,  107. 

Law,  Rev.  "W.,  288. 

Lawes,  Rev.  "W.   G.,   .356,  359,  491, 

492. 
"Leisure  Hour,"  494,  497. 
"  Loelia"  yacht,  466,  483. 
Lundie,  Mr  G.  A.,  145,  169,  188-191. 


Malua  Institution,  215,  &c. 

Mamoe,  280. 

Manihiki,  375. 

Manono,  272,  &c. 

Manua,  71,  136,  &c. 

Manumanu,  village  of  and  river,  473, 

&c. 
Marquesas  Islands,  6,  11. 
Marriages,  heathen,  76. 
Massacre,  the  French,  104. 
M'Donald,  Rev.  A.,  54. 
M'Farlane,  Rev.  S.,  339,  445,  447,  &c. 
Mills,  Rev.  W.,  299,  319,  &c. 
Mills,  Mrs,  death  and  character  of, 

319. 
Mills,  Rev.  J.  M.,  306. 
Moresby,  Captain,  478,  480. 
Moresby,  Port,  487,  &c. 
Morgan,  Captain,  44,  47,  326,  &c. 
"Morning  Star,"  mission  ship,  412. 
Murray  Islands,  471,  &c. 

JSTanomea,  407,  418. 
Nares,  Captain,  490. 
New  Guinea,  mission  to,  projected, 

445  ;  voj'age   to,  448  ;  description 

of,  494,  &c. 
New  Testament,  the  Samoan,  272. 
New  Testament,    the  Aneiteumese, 

340. 
Nisbet,  Rev.  Dr,  186,  253,  239,  &c. 
Niue,  164,  359,  &c. 
Niutao,  404,  418. 
Norval,  33. 
Nova  Scotia,  240. 
Nui,  389,  409,  417,  420. 
Nukufetau,  386,  403,  413. 
Nukulaelae,  3S0,  397,  &c. 

Orkney,  Mr,  484. 

Papua,  origin  of  the  name,  495. 

Pitman,  Rev.  C,  15. 

Piatt,  22,  54. 

Powell,  Rev.  T.,  227,  2.53,  204,  &c. 

Pratt,  Rev  G.,  121,  &c. 


INDEX. 


509 


Presbyterian  mission,  240,  ha. 
Pukapuka,  island  of,  308, 

Rarotonga,  15. 
Redscar  Buy,  457,  472,  &c. 
Religious  belief,  500. 
Reporter,  the  Samoan,  227. 
Ridley,  Rev.  AYilliani,  500. 
Rogerson,  Rev.  John,  8,  9. 

Santa  Christina,  7. 
Slatyer,  Rev.  T.,  145,  195-198,  &c. 
"  St  Mary's,"  U.S.  ship  of  war,  311. 
Stallworthy,  Rev.  G.,  217. 
Stearns,  Mr  A.  W.,  322,  332,  &c. 
Sunderland,   Rev.    J.   P.,   227,   277, 
289,  &c.. 

Tatooing  in  Samoa,  223. 
Tauan,  453,  4(3(3,  &c. 
Temple,  a  heathen,  171. 
Thomson,  Rev.  Robert,  9. 
Thorngreu,  Mr,  447,  404,  479,  &c. 
Tokelau  group,  331,  428. 
Turner,  Rev.  Dr  G.,  186,  210,  304, 
338,  &c. 


Turner,  Rev.  Dr  G.  A.,  4.30,  440. 
Turpie,  Captain,  308,  425. 

United  States  Exploring  Expediticm, 

120. 
Upolu,  description  of,  301. 

\'AiTUPU,  387,  402,  414,  420. 
Victoria,    her    Majesty  Queen,  223, 
233,  234. 

Wallace,  Mr,  494,  495. 

Warrior  Island  and  Reef,  452. 

"  Wild  Wave  "  brig,  428,  440. 

AVilkes,  Commodore,  120. 

Williams,  Rev.  John,  93,  97,  100, 
144,  &c. 

Williams,  Mrs,  184. 

Williams,  Mr  J.  C,  300. 

Wilson,  Rev.  C,  291. 

Whitmee,  Rev.  S.  J.,  412,  443. 

Wreck  of  the  first  "  John  Williams," 
308. 

AVreck  of  the  second  "  John  Wil- 
liams," 425. 


THE  END. 


PRINTED   BV   BALLANTYNE,    HANSON    AND    CO. 
EDINBURGH    AND   LONDON. 


Bij  t\}t  same  ^utljor. 


MISSIONS 

IN 

WESTERN    POLYNESIA, 


HISTORICAL   SKETCHES   OF   THESE   MISSIONS 

FROM  THEIR  COMMENCEMENT  IN  1839 

TO  THE  PRESENT  TIME. 


COMPARISON    or    LANGUAGES 


ISLANDS  OF  TORRES  STRAITS,  AXD  ON  THE  MAINLAND  OF  NEW  GUINEA,  WITH  SOME  OF  THE  DIAL&JTS  OF  POLYNESIA. 
AND  THE  AUSTRALIAN  CONTINENT. 


•n,  and  nlso  of  tlie  ^lulay  lanfjiiage,  and  of  o 


Zeftland  on  the  South  ; 


allowed,  \}y  competent  judges, 
y  syllable  ends  in  a  vowel.     This,  ao  far  ai 


II  the  Samoan,  the  Tahitian,  and  some  other  dialects,  there  i: 


f  of  the  others,  such  n 


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m 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA,  LOS  ANGELES 
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